Cassell's popular gardening

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Cassell’s popular gardening.

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CASSELL & COMPANY, Limited,

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CASSELL'S

POPULAR GARDENING.

EDITED BY

D. T. FISH,

ASSISTED IN TEE PRESENT VOLUME BY

Mr. EDWARD W. BADGER, F.R.H.S. Mr. RICHARD DEAN, Eating, W.

Mr. JAMES BRITTEN, F.L.S., British Mu- | MR. WILLIAM EARLEY, Jiford, Essex.
Seum. Mr. WILLIAM HUGH GOWER, WNurseries,

Mr. WILLIAM CARMICHAEL, /ate Gardener Tooting.
to H.R... the Prince of Wales. Mr. JAMES HUDSON, Tie Gardens, Gunnirs-

Mr. WILLIAM COLEMAN, T7%ke Gardens, bury House, Acton, W.
Eastnor Castle, Ledbury. Dr. MAXWELL T. MASTERS, F.R.S.

Mr. WILLIAM WILDSMITH, Zhe Gardens, Heckfield Place, Winchfield, Hants.

G@ith numerous Jllustrations.

VoL. II.

CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED:

LONDON, PARIS, & MELBOURNE.
[ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.]

Cun

INDEX OF CONTENTS.

je ge

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS: pace GLASS STRUCTURES AND APPLIANCES: PAGE
The Rock Rose—Lychnis—Globe Flower—Poppy Bell-glasses, Cloches, and Hand-lights—Glass and

—Potentilla ... aed 4s ss $100 Earthenware Protectors oak ae -. 48
Barrenwort— Gaudin -Garaninen <Gauni-tycen: Garden Frames... ais si see ars -. 135
phylla—Achillea—Campanula or Hare-bell ... 139 Pits a ee ee
Sweet Peas—Scabious—Megasea—American Cows-
lip—Jacob’s Ladder —Evening Primrose — GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS:
Sunflower ca we 253
The Feverfew or Pytstinn eee ‘aienaso or Clianthus--Cobcea—Coronilla—Correea— Crinoden-
Meadow-Sweet—The Catch-fly—The Ragwort dron —Crowea, —Daphue -Dillwynia — Draco-
(Senecio) vs ae is ds wae BAS phyllum—Dryandra—Kcci 2mocarpus-—Eutaxia 51
Epacris—Erica... Pe » 115
sRetnatainioni aesleatie iastetia _ ‘Genetyllis—

THE DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS: Genista—Guidia—Gompholobium—Grevillea—
Introduction—Materials—Management and Pre- Habrothamnus — Haworthia — Heliotropium—

- servation ‘ide Ess eee ww (125 Hovea—Humea—Hydrangea sa 168
Dinner and other Table De ere oon as . 204 Imantophyllum — Knightia — Lapageria — Tiaches
Drawing-room and Boudoir—Entrance Halls ait naultia —Leucopogon—Lisianthus — Lomatia—

Corridors—Single Plants for Rooms ... aa 275 Luculia—Macleania—Magnolia — Mandevilla—
Personal Decorations—Bouquets... aoe se 336 Mesembryanthemum—Mitraria—Mutisia ... 244
Myrsiphyllum — Myrtus — Nerium — Passiflora —
FERNS: Pentapterygium — Pheenocoma — Phormium—
Pimelea— Plumbago — Polygala — Primula—
Alsophilas — Actiniopteris — Anemias — Todeas — Psammisia ... vw OES
Acrostichums—Lomarias .. .. 0, GL HulfeneanRicdbiendion—Richantin--Sélenuiie
The Cheilanthes—Gleichenias—Pteris sis vex 194 Statice — Stenocarpus — Tacsonia — Tecoma
Hymenophyllums—Trichomanes ... 286 Testudinaria — Tetratleca—Thibandia—Vacci
The Onocleas—The Lygodiums Sse sass we 872 aan a2. a a mee we 861
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS: THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN:
- Importance of Fruit—Site, Soil, and Shelter ve. 326
The Dahlia ... vee sine vid oe si isi 300. Arvangement ma fe te a8 7 18
The Fuchsia... eee os tor 20) The Apple : Hesiumatinnn an ms 162
The Gloxinia—The Hollyhock—The ining AD .. 188 Apples—Planting ... 1% es 24 . a 249
The Pelargonium—The Benistemon sis a 292 Apples—Pruning and Forming... - . 320
The Petunia—The Phlox—The Pink.., eas ww. S61
TH# KITCHEN GARDEN:

THE FLOWER, GARDEN: Salsafy—Scorzonera—Sea-Kale—Spinach .., 56
Vases and Baskets... 5 ie 48 New Zealand Spinach—Tomatoes—Turnips w 105
Winter Bedding ... ae as se a8 . 85 Simultaneous Cropping ... ave «. 185
Spring Bedding—Spring Flowers... os we 174 Monthly Calendar of Work to he ee ai sis) 1288

Keeping and General Culture ... kee hs we 202 Monthly Calendar (continued) ... ee ca ve 309

CASSELL’S

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS:

Cells and Vessels ...

Roots and Root-stocks ... oe sie

The Leaves and What They Do ie ant a
What the Leaves Do—The Sap... dy ate one
Growth ane oe roe} es i ay aes

ORCHIDS:

Introduction—Acanthophippium—Acineta — Acro-
pera—Adda—aAerides isi a on eee

Anetochilus—Angrecum—Anguloa. .. ids es

Ansellia—Arpophyllum—Barkeria — Héteinainln—
Bletia—Bolbophyllum — Bollea —- Brassavola—
Brassia—Broughtonia—Burlingtonia 3s

Calanthe—Catasetum—Cattleya— Chysis— Bivbhic.
petalum—Ceelogyne ..

Colax — Comparettia — on - _Gycnedhieg—
Cymbidium—Cypripedium... oe a

Cyrtopodium—Dendrobium ... ise we oe

THE PINE-APPLE:

Tutroduction—Pine-houses -
Propagation—Cultivation 2 ee eas

PAGE

40
9%
158
214
367

146

POPULAR GARDENING.

THE PINE-APPLE (continued) :

Cultivation (continued) ... 38 on a

Insects which affect the Pine — Varieties of

Pines

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING:

General Principles of Construction ...
Alpine Plants

Alpine Plants ioprauas:

List of Alpine Plants os

List of Alpine Plants (continued)

THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE:

Pruning Roses

Training es ae ae oe wis

Roses on Walls, and Walls of Basse. wie ae

Roses for Pillars, Pyramids, Arches
Arbours ...

THE VINE AND ITS FRUIT:

and

Diseases of the Vine — List of Remarkable

Vines... bie fk si wad

&

CASSELL’S
POPULAR GARDENING.

at

=

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD
GARDENING.

GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF CONSTRUCTION.
By D. T. Fisu.

1:0 imitate nature so closely as
to be mistaken for it, while
providing all the most foster-
ing growing conditions pos-
sible to the highest art, may
be described as the perfection
of rock building and furnish-
ing. In the majority of
rockeries there is an excess
of stone or other hard mate-
rial, and a sad scarcity of
suitable soil for the culture
of the plants. The rock is
too often made the main
thing, the earth and the
plants the secondary. This is a structural error
that can hardly be remedied afterwards, and
has smitten thousands of artificial rovkeries with
a barrenness that has robbed them of the major
portion of their interest and beauty. An excess of
stone, lava, or other hard material is as improvident
as it proves unsuccessful. It costs money, as well as
invites or insures failure. Not seldom tons upou
tons of rock material have been purchased and
carted from long distances, and piled up into mounds
or raised into spiky pinnacles, at enormous cost,
while far more effective and suitable base-lines
could have been formed on the spot. Earth of some
sort —soil or subsoil, chalk, gravel, or rock —is
always present, and this can be thrown into the
most erratic forms, and disposed into an irregularity
of surface that shall render repetition or monotony
impossible. ,

The Base.—The earth is at once the cheapest,
most stable, and suitable base for rock-work of all

25

oo

sorts and for all purposes—whether for Alpines only ,
mixtures of Alpines, herbaceous plants and shrubs;
ferns; or a mixture of ferns and flowering plants.
As a rule, not only is there too much rock used, and
visible—alike on artistic and cultural grounds—
but the effect is frittered away in a multiplicity of
tiny elevations and depressions that degrade the
rock-work into the depths of puny insignificance.
Too much is attempted in the limited area. A few
bold smaller mounds and deeper depressions, a little
rolling ground, and a few rugged rough rocks, would
give dignity to the smallest rockery, and raise the
larger to somewhat of the grandeur and sublimity of
nature. But the attempt to crowd the rich variety of.a
hill or country-side into a few square yards converts
the most imposing attempts at the sublime into the
actually ludicrous. One tiny hill or rugged cliff
well formed and furnished, gives more satisfaction
than a hundred little goes, each as like to the other
as two peas, and all resulting in a rockery that is a
mockery of nature and a burlesque on art.

The Rock.—Instead of piling up stones, brick-
bats, clinkers, or lava in cart or barrow-loads, as the
base of rockeries, no hard materials should come on
to the ground till the general outline of the rockery
is already well and truly laid. Of course, where
very large stones are used, some of them may be
placed during the process of laying the earthy bases of
the rockery. But these and the whole of the so-called
rocks should be so placed as to crop out of, rather
than form the substance or base of the rock-work.
It is astonishing how far the rocky matters will go
when thus treated and managed. Each piece care.
fully posted may go farther than several cart-loads
on the higgledy-piggledy, hap-hazard style.

But it is not all who begin thus with the earth that
manage to finish an artistic rock-work. On the con-
trary, some of the worst samples seen by the writer
have been sc formed that the earth and every step of
the process can be traced for all future time. <A regu-
lar or irregular earth-bank or series of tiny mounds

2 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

resembling Brobdignagian mole-hills, are covered
with a series of rocky pockets, as nearly as may be
of one uniform size, shape, and character. These
hideous pockets, as a rule, are far more conspicuous

than the plants that are supposed to fillthem. In

many examples they are far too shallow; in others
much too large for their occupants. Nota few of
these rockeries haunt our memory as we write—
they look as if a shower of slaty pieces of rock or
sandstone had fallen down on the semi-even ground-
line of the rockery, and had arranged themselves into
squares of equal or unequal sides nearly all over the
area occupied. Seen froma distance, the rock-work
somewhat resembles the worked-out ground-line of
a worn-out quarry. Approach nearer, to see the
plants, if any, and all the hideous deformity of the
. pocket system run to seed becomes painfully manifest.
A perfect rockery, be it large or small, should
more resemble the sides than the floor of a quarry,
exhausted or otherwise. The rocks should rise
boldly—project here, recede there, and in places
boldly assert themselves. For though the chief use
of artificial rockeries is to afford picturesque-growing
sites for beautiful plants and flowers, yet the rocky
character of the base should be more prominently
apparent here and there. The attempt to utilise
each foot or yard of space, and to cover the whole of

the rocks with flowers or foliage, is ‘as great a.

mistake as the opposite one of having ten times more
rock than vegetable covering.

Regularity of form and of clothing is the ruin of
the majority of artificial rockeries. Nature, by her
various tiltings, upheavals, and depressions, varies to

‘infinity the rocky foundations of the earth. And
one of the chief charms of artificial rockeries con-
sists in choosing for our imitation specimens of
her most erratic performances. And yet where any
particular strata is chosen for imitation, in most
cases sufficient variety may be obtained in the
dips or tiltings of that particular formation, with-
out travelling far beyondit. But of course this is
more applicable to rockeries of great extent, and
such as are seldom attempted in this country.

Most of our garden rockeries are a mixed lot,
formed of all sorts of odds and ends that can be col-
lected in the demesne or neighbourhood. Where
‘these are not available, spar, iron clinkers, slag,
spoilt brick, fused pottery, cement, and various
compositions are employed. As a rule, the greatest
variety of rocky substances will be found in the
smallest rockery, and the absurd mixture of stone,
spoilt brick, flints, spar, refuse of glass works, old
gas retorts, clinkers, suffices to rob such rockeries of
any pretence to propriety or artistic taste.

Many of the evils arising from the use of excessive
variety of materials in rock-work may be hidden or

mitigated by the simple expedient of coating the
whole over with Portland cement, after being placed
in position. This converts the whole into rock of
one colour and character, and effectually hides up
the commonplace character of the materials em-
ployed.

But rock-work of artistic and imposing character
may be formed without any hard materials at all.
The base of the rockery may be formed of earth
only, and these earthy masses cased over on the spot
with cement. This can be moulded into any desired
form, and pinnacles and stalactites worked in or on
for effect where desired. It can also be faced, just
before setting, with smashed spar or ground stone,
of any desired sort or colour. How much can be
very well done in this way with a very slender ex-
penditure of time and money, cannot be known
without making trial of the system.

This mode of converting mere earth into rocks,
large or otherwise, at will, needs considerable know-
ledge and experience. But these acquired, it is
comparatively easy, and becomes one of the most
fascinating of all horticultural pursuits. The rocks
grow up, as it were, under the hand of the master,
and are fashioned into endless varieties of form and
style, as he lists.

Solidity.—This is of especial importance: the
earth should be moulded into the desired shape several
months or a year before the rocks are fashioned on
its surface. The necessity of great solidity of base
is of course apparent, and notwithstanding all that
may be done by ramming and treading, time, after
all, is the great consolidator. Earth-banks, hills,
and dales—even overhanging ledges and rugged
ravines—will stiffen into permanent shape more
thoroughly under a year’s shine and shower, frost
and thaw, than by any possible amount of mechani-
cal pressure in their making or afterwards. Care-
fully made and moulded, and left so for a year to
settle, the earth will seldom subside much after-
wards ; and should it slightly give way, most of the
artificial rocks of some two inches or more thick
will have strength sufficient to stand alone.

Other advantages arise from waiting, besides the
gain of solidity. The surfuces of the mounds will
thus be mellowed into greater sweetness and enriched
into a higher fertility. It is almost impossible to
over-estimate the importance of this: for the surface
that forms the bases of our rocks also furnishes the
plants with deep, rich, and amply sufficient root-runs.
For it must be observed that, as a rule, the pockets
made in the rocks are bottomless; at all events, they
are not bottomed with rocks, But with soil of such
quality as shall sustain the vigour and fully develop
the beauty of the plants grown on or beside the rocks.

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING. 3

Depth of Soil.—It is absolutely needful that the
soil should be deep and suitable: a depth of two feet
or a yard is by no means excessive for Alpine plants.
One of the most mischievous fallacies in regard to

’ these is that they need but little soil, As they are

found apparently clinging to the sides of hard, hot
‘rocks, it is too readily assumed that their root-runs
are shallow, hot, and dry. The very opposite of all this
is more generally true. The roots run deep, into
deep fissures and seemingly unfathomable crevices,
and these are cool, as a rule, as wellas deep. The
fact of their being crevices keeps them cool, for they
are full of air or water, both of which conduct heat
slowly, and though the sun may beat on the rock, a
few inches or a foot distant the roots in the crevices
are cool as the bracing air of morning in the early
spring-tide. Another cooling agency of great
force is almost constantly at work to preserve the
roots of the plants cool. Many of them are deni-
zens of mountain ranges, inhabiting regions less or
more removed from the snow-line. And thus it
happens, while their tops may be blooming against
the heated rocks, their roots are growing in snow-
water, that is, ina temperature but little removed
ahove 32°. It is of course impossible to mete out all
these exact conditions to the roots of Alpine plants
under cultivation ; but the nearer we can approach
them in regard to the depth and coolness of the root-
runs, the better the plants will thrive.

Finally, the roots must be kept moist, as well as
cool. No doubt, even under natural conditions there
are exceptions to this rule. Not a few Alpine plants
not only “‘lay their beauteous cheeks against the
thick-ribbed ice, and bid the dewdrops nurse them,”
but have little better or more liberal fare for their
roots. These will hold on to the barren rock, or live
in what seems mere stone, dust, or rocky débris.
But these are exceptions, and the rule is far other-
wise. The flow of water over the surface or through
the hidden fissures of rocks is seldom wholly arrested,
unless in climates where the dry seasons wither into
forced rest all vegetation. The natural sites of
most Alpine plants insure a constant supply of water
for their roots, and it is almost impossible to over-
water the majority of such in dry weather, provided
always the drainage is ample and perfect. The
water must be kept in motion—moving water in
plenty and pure air, as far aa may be obtained, being
the breath of life to these wild and free children of
nature, Stagnant water and sooty, stuffy air is
the touch of death to them; and yet not a few
nice collections of these plants may be found in or
near London, Manchester, Birmingham, Liverpool,
Glasgow, Edinburgh, Dublin, York, and other
large towns.

With proper root-runs, at once deep, cool, moist,

and the tops frequently washed clean with garden
engine, syringe, or sponge—for cleanliness is the
parent of health in the garden as well as in the
home, the workshop, the counting-house, foundry,
or mine—the whole distance between the health
and beauty and disease and deformity of muny
plants is included in the one word sanitation, or
cleanliness. It may almost be said that all things
are possible to the cultivator who keeps his plants
clean. How often this truth finds forcible illus-
tration in the homes of the poor! In one home
dirt reigns supreme, and the plants are jaun-
diced and their leaves stricken, killed by the suffo-
cating incubus of dirt. Next door the boards of the
floor, though rotten and rickety, shine through sheer
scrubbing, and the plants in the broken window
look as bright and healthy as those in the duchess’s
boudoir. :

So vitally important is cleanliness to the health
of plants, that even Alpines may be successfully
cultivated wherever a bit of blue sky can be seen,
provided always that they are liberally fed and kept
scrupulously clean. Dirtand drought are their greatest
foes, and not a few rockeries are so constructed
as to intensify to the uttermost the evils of both.
Set in the teeth of the sum and of every wind
that blows, with cramped root-runs that hold only a
pinch of soil on an excessively pervious or wholly
impervious bottom, the roots are either in a state of
flood or of absolute want, and the plants droop and
die of necessity.

Never was the art of judging by appearances
farther from the truth, nor the cause of more absolute
failures, than in the case of Alpine plants. Compara-
tively few of them are even rock plants; accidents
of stature or of character have placed them where
they are found, that is, as a rule, in a well-watered
garden, with rich and varied root-runs, composed of
the denudation of rocks and the decomposition of
their own remains through a long series of years.
Hugging the snow-line for coolness and for
moisture, and to escape the shade of taller or
what is termed superior vegetation, they form a
fringe of verdure and of colour, and a connecting
link of matchless beauty between the vegetable and
mineral kingdoms. Within their zone they reign
supreme over nature—veritable vegetable queens,
alike superior to the rocks among and above them,
and the taller herbaceous plants, grasses, shrubs, and
trees lower down.

All this is most suggestive to the would-be suc-
cessful cultivator of such plants. The plants
themselves, and not the artistic piling up or esthetic
effects of the rocks, must be the chief points. In
the design and execution of the majority of rockeries
not only are there far more rocks than plants, but

4 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

the former dominate or dwarf the latter. The
highest art in this form of garden architecture or
landscape—for it is both—is so to introduce and
dispose of the rock as to improve the setting,
enhance the beauty, or add to the vigour or robust-
ness of the plants. The plants are nature’s j ewels ;
the rocks—at least the artificial ones—are the setting
used to throw them up or out to higher purpose or
vantage.

Starting and holding on with vice-like tenacity to
this general principle would revolutionise many, and
improve nearly all, of the artificial rockeries in the
kingdom. And there would be this tangible benefit,
that whatever else failed, the plants would thrive

~

did to the gems of art which they well-nigh extin-
guished by their enormous weight and gaudy glitter
of golden gilding. No more rock than is needful
for the setting, and our Alpineries and ferneries
would become gems of art, sensibly adding by their
verdure, brilliance, and grandeur to the artistic
enrichments of the garden, instead of, as now, so
often being the one unpleasant blot that mars its
whole character, and drags it down to the low level
of sheer vulgarity.

The Soil for Rock Plants.—Be its quality
what it may, its depth is of more importance than
its width, the roots of many Alpines boring more

Fig. 1.

Fig. 2.

fn Fig. 1 the plant is considerably overhung by the rocks, and is dwarfed in size in consequence.

Fig. 3.
But by

placing the plant slightly in advance of the rock, these evils are less apparent than if the plant had been

placed directly against its base.

In Fig. 2 the upstanding rock is placed almost vertically, and the plant

grows the better on that account, Fig. 3 shows the rock tilted over away from the plant.

and be in health. It is not given to every one—
only, in fact, to very few—to observe and appropriate
to artificial uses nature’s tit-bits of rockscape; but
almost any one who starts on the firm, safe ground
that every plant must have good soil and plenty
of water to grow it to perfection, is on the high
road to cultural success. So vitally important
is the latter, and such horrid abortions are many
rockeries, that one is ready to exclaim, ‘“ Perish the
rocks, if the plants will only live, thrive, and
flower!” Some of them will do far better without
rocks than with, on, or among them; and some of
the most effective banks, mounds, borders, and beds
of Alpine plants have been wholly rockiess.

But this is written not to discourage rockeries,
but to give emphasis to the advice to consider the
plants first and last. If this is always done, rocks
may be introduced among them with less injury,
and probably to the improvement of the general
effect. But so many rockeries bear the same rela-
tion to the plants, ferns, &c., with which they
are facetiously said to be clothed, as the enormously
Leavy and monstrously gilded frames, once 80 common,

than spreading. A yard deep should be looked
upon as the minimum needed to grow these
to anything like perfection; the deeper, in fact,
the better. Even the quality of the soil is of
less moment than its depth, for its function in
not a few cases is more of a water-holder than @
plant-feeder. This holds out good prospects of
success to those who would try water-culture for
Alpines. Hence, too, almost any soil that can be
kept moist without becoming sour may be used for
them. Ina state of nature, the earth they grow in
is very much mixed. The débris of rocks and decom-
posed grasses, mosses, leaves, stems, with particles of
soil or silica, these form the natural compost for
Alpines; and the nearer this mixture can be imitated
by artificial means the better. The nearest practical
approach to this natural mixture is sandy loam, with
a third of leaf-mould and a liberal addition of
smashed sandstone or other stone. A few prefer
peat, but these are comparatively few. Where leaf-
mould is not obtainable, peat may be substituted for
it. Some cultivators even recommend a slight addi-
tion of thoroughly decomposed manure, but this is

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING. 5

wholly unnecessary, and generally injurious. The
mere fact of its being utterly unnatural is strong
presumptive evidence against its use, while ex-
perience shows that it does far more harm than
good.

The rage for rough turfy loam, though right
in the main,is not seldom carried to extremes
in the cultivation of particular plants. For ex-
ample, in the cultivation of Alpines the necessity
for thorough drainage is so apparent that this
object is sought to be obtained through excessive
looseness and roughness of the soil; but any
one who has dug up an Alpine plant in its natural
habitat must have been struck with two features of
its root-run, its hardness and its fineness. The soil
is mostly the slow and gradual accretion of ages,
formed a few grains or particles at a time; and
time, the great consolidator, compacts it into hard

are essential to their life, vigour, and luxuriance, and
hence the importance of so placing the rocks as in
no way to interfere with those natural refreshers and
invigorators. Figs. 1, 2, and 3 give illustrations of
the different modes of placing rocks so as to avoid
the evils of overlapping, and get all the advantages
of a free sweep and full exposure to atmospheric in-
fluences.

The proper disposal of rocks under the roots of
plants is of equal or more importance than their sky-
line. Asa rule, all the pockets or artificial fissures
should cleave boldly downwards rather than spread
out horizontally, and they should never on any
account run upwards, unless they have an opening
at the top into the external air (see Fig. +, 3, c).
But the best form of fissure is that shown at £, in
Fig. 4, while the worst is illustrated by a, in the
same figure, which may be described as a trap

Fig. &4- Crevices ror Rock Prants.

masses. The porosity of the soil is maintained by
the addition of rocky débris or other matters—semi-
imperishable matter—to it. Thesame rule should
be observed in the artificial formation of root-runs
for rock plants. Fresh turfy loam should be laid
up for a year or more before use, as fresh vegetable
fibre can hardly be at once utilised by the roots.
It would also be benefited by one or more turn-
ings and by the addition of fifteen per cent. or so
of pure silica, or clean sharp silver sand, if not
sufficiently sandy: five or so of leaf-mould, sweet
and well rotted, and from fifteen to twenty per cent.
of smashed stone. The latter is to be preferred to
crocks, potsherds, shells, or charcoal. The soil in
all cases should be on a laver or base of drainage
from two to six or more inches in depth. In cases
where plants are grown in pockets in rocks, it is
essential to success that these should either be bot-
tomless, or have one or more free outlets from their
lower sides or bottoms, for it cannot be too often re-
peated that stagnant water means disease or death to
all such piants. They cannot well have too much
water during the growing and flowering periods, if it
is kept in constant motion. This suggests a point of
great importance. In planting choice plants among
rocks, the latter must on no account be so tilted over
as to overhang the plants. The sun and the rain

to kill plants, as no moisture can reach the roots
in such a crevice. Of course, between a and §&
there may be a great variety of gradation, and
so long as the line of the fissure is sufficiently
downwards to convey moisture freely from top
to bottom, it may diverge widely from the vertical
line without injury to the plants. For exampte,
a crevice or fissure like c might answer almost
as well as , for the successful culture of rock plants.

Drainage and Water.—<Assuming that the
major portion of the rockery—all its base, in fact
—is formed of soil, and that the top of the earth-
mound provides a dual surface, one of drainage from
four to six inches in depth, and the other of good
soil, such as that already described, « yard or so in
thickness: it is necessary for the outlet for the
drainage, where the base of the rockery is greatly
varied, to be at the lowest point.

In Fig. 5, for example, the lower portions at
a, b, e would be converted into swamps, unless
outlets for the water were provided at the lowest
points of these rolling valleys or ravines. Unless
this were done, semi-aquatic plants would have
to be planted in such positions; but the combina-
tion of a bog-fernery, and Alpinery in one is sel-
dom very effective. The one very properly succeeds

6 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

the other in tolerably close proximity, as thus the
effects of all will be heightened alike literally and
figuratively, for from the water-line to the top of
the tallest rock is of necessity the greatest possible
difference of altitude within reach. The smooth
water also contrasts sharply with the rough and
rugged rocks, and the contrast would be heightened
were the rocks to plunge rather abruptly from the
highest point to the surface of the miniature pond or
lake, however small. The effect would be still more
striking were the rocks crowned with such stiff and
formal plants as Echeverias, Yuccas, Draczenas,

within the limits of a few yards. All that is needful
is to place the sun-loving subjects on the southern
and the shade-loving ones on the northern sides of
the up-towering rocks, such as those shown in the
illustrations.

In planting into the soil itself, as here recommended,
great care must be taken in the placing of the rocks.
afterwards, to afford the free access of rain to the
roots. With sufficient drainage beneath, there is no
fear of any excess of rain from above; but if stones
are so placed as to throw it off the roots, the Alpine
plants must needs droop and suffer in consequence.

_ Fig. 5.—Basis oF Rock-worg.
1, Original earth base; 2, drainage; 3, strata of good soil; 4, rocks.

Palms, tall Ferns, or Aloes, and the latter furnished
with Water Lilies, Irises, or Musk Marigolds. But
mere swamp—that is, neither good rock, bog, nor
clean water—at such points as a, b, and ¢ would be
alike objectionable on grounds of taste and culture.

Shade and Shelter.—The system of forming the
bases of rockeries of earth-mounds of considerable
boldness, also affords the utmost possible diversity of
site and aspect within a limited area. This is of great
importance in the cultivation of Alpines as well as of
ferns. It is too generally assumed that the former
thrive best in full sunshine, and the latter in the
shade; but the fact is that not a few of both families
of plants thrive best in the sun and others in the
shade. With a rolling-bank running north and
south, sun and shade may be provided at pleasure,
and thus each family of plants be provided with, as
far as possible, its natural conditions. Even where
mere pieces of rock are set up, as in Figs. 1, 2,
and 3, shade and shine may each be commanded

Keeping the Crowns well above the Soil.
—Though most of these plants enjoy an abundance
of moisture, few of them can endure water resting
on their crowns. The crowns are not only the chief
centres of beauty in rock plants, but also fheir.
source of weakness. They are keenly susceptible
of cold, and easily injured by any excess of water.
Considering from whence they come, it may seem
absurd to affirm that any of these plants should
succumb to the cold of our climate; but they do.
They miss their snow coverlet, which seldom sinks
much below 32°, and their slightly warmer bath of
snow-water a few degrees above it; and hence, when
exposed to five, ten, or fifteen degrees of frost, not a
few of them perish from cold. They suffer all the
more if the frost comes down upon them in a very
wet state; hence one powerful reason why the
crowns should be slightly elevated above the sur-
rounding surface.

One great objection to common pocket-planting is
that, as a rule, the sides of the pocket must of

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING. 7

necessity be elevated somewhat above the soil they
contain. When formed of cement or other com-
position, these sides are generally waterproof ; hence
the water at times floods the crowns of the plants.
This is sufficiently injurious in favourable weather,

but absolutely fatal to health or life during pro-.

longed spells of frost. But with their crowns
elevated slightly above the surrounding level, and
the soil in which they are growing thoroughly
drained at all points, most of them bear the severities
of our climate with impunity. Those that do
succumb to it are killed by the sudden changes from
cold to heat and drought to saturation, more fre-
quently than from any absolute want of heat.

We have nothing, however, equivalent to the
snow covering to which Alpines have been accustomed
in their native habitat. Perhaps the simplest and
best substitute for this is a thickish sprinkling of
roughish cocoa-fibre refuse over their crowns during
frosts of unusual severity. This is at once light and
porous, and hence most efficient as a heat-preserver,
while doing but little injury to the plants. Instead
of harbouring slugs, its semi-harshness and rough-
ness is a partial antidote to them, while its decom-
position adds a useful ingredient to the feeding
properties of the soil.

Slugs and Woodlice. — One might almost
suppose that rock plants were unnatural food for
these. It seems impossible for many slug pests
to live in the hard and sterile soils and regions
where such most do congregate and thrive;
but if so, the British slugs betray a wonderful
fondness for such exotic fare. They pounce upon
and devour choice plants with such avidity as if to
the manner born; and a water-cordon, which is
often practicable, is the best of all barriers to ex-
ternal attacks. But slugs seem to spring up out
of the very earth with extraordinary rapidity.
To prevent this, and in cases where Alpines are
grown on a small scale, the soil used might be
charred or burnt before use. This would get rid of
the slug pest from within, from whence it is most
troublesome; and thus, with a water-cordon—the
wider the better, though a few inches will suffice
(the writer has seen a common roof-trough on its
back prove effective)—the rockery can be made pest-
proof. On larger scales, the lake around the base of
the rock-garden may be made the most interesting
part of it; but watchfulness will still be needful.
Though these pests can neither crawl nor fly over
the water, they enter the rockery nevertheless, and
a slug-hunt at early morn and dewy eve will mostly
result in a few finds, and is the surest means of pre-
serving choice plants from being unseasonably de-
voured root and branch.

Simpler Means of forming Small Rock-
eries.—In many gardens and dcmesnes natural
banks by the sides of streams, mounds, and dells are
to be found. Nothing can be easier than to convert
such into rockeries by the insertion of stones, brick
refuse, boulders, and other rock-like materials.
These should be erratically grouped rather than
regularly placed or planted all over the surface. It
is the latter that imparts that monotony to rockeries
which has done so much to bring them into contempt.
Not only must every yard, or even foot, of ground
have its plant, but its rock likewise. This is a huge
mistake. Let there be soil without rocks, and rocks
with little or no soil. Unless in her regular strata,
we never find nature scattering her detached rocks
about with any regularity; neither should we in
our artificial rock-making. The less regular, the
more artistic and effective.

Another simple way is to throw up the earth, and
build in and up the rock-work simultaneously. This
is perhaps the best way where such rock-matcrials as
brickbats, clinkers, &c., are used. Heaps or masses
of these worked in with the soil—taking care to leave
sufficient spaces for soil, and to coat all over-head
with a layer of cement, coloured and finished to
taste by additions of stones or smashed spar—pro-
duce strikingly beautiful masses of rock-work ut a
cheap rate.

Again, it is very easy to throw up mounds of earth
at different angles and of various forms against walls,
and to face such with rock-work, varying the breadth
and height of these at pleasure. Perhaps in no
position can rock-work prove more useful than in

. hiding straight walls, and substituting for them flow-

ing or irregular lines of verdure and beauty. Rocks
may often be thus disposed against walls so as to
convert the boundary-lines of gardens into features
of the most absorbing interest and scenes of the
most surpassing loveliness. The whole character of a
house or garden may be changed and marvellously
improved by the use of a few loads of stones, and
fifty or a hundred choice plants and ferns.

Rocks and Water.— The margins of water,
woods, and shrubberies form admirable sites for rock-
eries, clothed with either Alpines or ferns, or, better
still, a mixture of both, and other herbaceous ani
foliage plants. Naturally as rocks seem to associate
with water, yet one seldom sees the two combined
to good taste or purpose by art. The most commoa
mistakes arise from the attempts constantly made to
force the water over rocks when the two are placed
together. Few things are more pleasing and im-
posing than natural waterfalls. The music of
falling water is also among the softest as well as the
stormiest notes in nature ; and the sight of its gentle

8- CASSELL’'S POPULAR GARDENING.

trickling over rocks, or of its wild, leaping, headlong
plunge that converts the stream and river into a
mere cloud of spray, are among the most pleasing
and thrilling that can be imagined. But just
because these sights and sounds of falling water are
so satisfying, the mere squirts, or ledges, or stairs of
~ waterfalls that one meets with even at Chatsworth
and the Crystal Palace, and in so many other places,
are grievously disappointing. Unless, in fact,
nature can assist art with a waterfall, this imposing
feature had better be dispensed with, or confined
to a mere dripping fountain or trickling of water
among the rocks.

But rocks are quite as effective in water at rest as
under or beside it in motion. And where rockeries
are placed against a lake or stream, they should rise
boldly out of the water at certain points, and the
coast-line, however limited, should be distinguished
by the utmost possible variety—now boldly advancing
into the water, and anon retreating into a cosy recess
landwards,

Instead of this artistic disposition of rock and
water, one often meets with lakes, long and straight
as a canal, with smooth grass banks on either side,
and, beyond the banks, rockeries or ferneries formed
on the grassy base. Such arrangements tempt one
to wish that an earthquake might swallow up the
long straight lines of turf, and allow the water and
the rock-work to become mixed up together in the
irregular mode of procedure common to those great
upheavers and disturbers of nature. What would
thus be lost in symmetry would be gained in artistic
fitness and variety.

Foreign Robbers.—By planting rockeries
in secluded nooks and corners in front of shrub-
beries and woods, much might be done to break
up the monotony of boundary-lines, by no means,
as a rule, overflowing with beauty, and to add
new interest and beauty to the scene. One
great practical difficulty presents itself here at
starting, and that is, the entrance of the roots of the
trees and shrubs into the rockery, and the conse-
quent exhaustion of the soil and starving of the
plants. So imminent and so great is the danger,
that some strong measures must be taken to pre-
vent or mitigate it. The roots of an Ash or an
Elm will travel a hundred yards, and form a per-
fect mat of roots at that distance, in any good soil
it penetrates. How the roots scent out the new
larder remains a mystery; but that they do, and
make great speed to empty it, is patent to any one
who has either disturbed old ground or placed new
anywhere near to established trees or shrubs. Not
that all roots travel so fast or so far as those of the
Elm or the Ash. But the roots of all plants make

vigorous and mostly successful efforts to reach and
exhaust any new soil laid over or placed near them.

There are two means of preventing foreign roots
from using up and exhausting the soil of the
rockery. The first is to make the original surface
root-proof before building the rockery upon it, and
the second, by planting in pockets in the rocks, the
base of such not to open intothe soil. In the former
case the roots could not rise into the new material,
and in the latter, though they would rise and hug
closely the base of the rocks, they would be unable
to get into the pockets that supported the rock
plants. Though bottomless pockets are best for
general purposes, those with impenetrable bases may
be used when needful to baulk the roots of trees, but
they must be pervious to the outlet of water or the
plants will die.

A layer of common or gas-tar concrete over tree-
roots will prevent their coming through, and like-
wise form a barrier against worms and slugs.
Neither is it found that such root-coverings, unless
carried too close to the plants, greatly injure estab-
lished trees or shrubs. But where this is feared, and
large stones are abundant, either these or artificial
stones may be used, that have no further connection
with the ground than merely resting upon it. Into
the pockets of these all the more choice and delicate
plants should be placed, while the spaces between the
rocks could either be left vacant or furnished with
stronger-growing ferns or other plants, that could
hold their own in the struggle for existence with the
roots of trees and shrubs,

Rockery against Dwelling-houses.—It is
often convenient to place it here, alike for ready
access and for purposes of shade, shelter, or verdure,
or the shutting out of unsightly buildings or other
objects. The one thing wanting in not a few gardens
is shade. The smaller villas and suburban gardens are
the hotter,as a rule. Their glitter and glare at times
are wellnigh intolerable. A raised bank six or more
feet high, covered with rocks and foliage or flowering
plants, might be so placed as to afford shade at any
time desired. If a rustic alcove arch could be
worked into the rockery, so much the better. Such
a cooland welcome retreat could be commanded at
all seasons, that would often combine more taste,
and prove more conducive to health and comfort,
than the whole garden besides,

Rock-work also affords a short and easy cut to the
solution of the most difficult problem that is ever
pressing urgently for solution, viz., the best mode of
shutting out unsightly objects, or of insuring as
much privacy and seclusion as possible. In thou-
sands of spots, where neither shrubs nor trees can be
grown to any effective purpose, rockeries might be run

THK ROSE AND ITS CULTURE. 9

up, and clothed with verdure and beauty at once, This
last is a wonderful point in their favour. No hedge
nor sercen-plants, nor trees and shrubs, ever grow so
slowly as those wanted at once to screen out the
east winds, or the prying eyes of inquisitive neigh-
pours. But a rockery may be built in a day, and
furnished on the morrow, that shall for ever shut
out all such annoyances, and itself be converted
into a thing of beauty and a joy for ever into the
bargain.

It is not only an effective but a substantial barrier.
A screen of leaves may be pushed aside, or fall at
the touch of winter, but the rockery abides, even
should its verdure and beauty fade ; its substance as
a screen and blind and shelter remains. The ladies
of the house, even invalids, can see or visit these
home rockeries in all weathers; and if well furnished
and skilfully managed, their clothing plants are ever
unfolding some new feature of interest and beauty ;
they never pall by their sameness nor weary through
their monotony.

Rockeries may often form convenient connecting
links of interest and beauty between the garden and
stables, or other parts of the demesne. In conserva-
tories attached to the dwelling-house or dining-
room windows, they form the most effective furnishing
for the end or other wall in view of the window. In
larger houses, one end of the conservatory is often
connected with a rockery, clothed with ferns and
other plants, through which a passage may be led
into the external air, as is done with admirable taste
at Wolverstone Park, Suffolk. The outside fernery
there is on a cliff of the Orwell, a natural site
commanding almost every merit needful, and these
have been utilised to the utmost by the highest art
and most cultured taste, the result being such as
is seldom or never met with elsewhere.

Beware of climbers on rockeries, especially those
devoted to the culture of Alpine plants. A few
Ivies, Periwinkles, Clematis, Honeysuckle, Vir-
ginian Creepers, &c., are so strikingly beautiful,
they clothe the rocks so rapidly! Yes; but they
cripple and ruin most of the more delicate and rare
plants in the end.

Do not be afraid of showing bare rock. This is
directly opposed to the advice usually given, but
long experience confirms its soundness. The chief
feature of not afew of the most famous rockeries is
that no rock is visible; this may be picturesque,
but it does not seem sensible. Why go to great
expense in making, moving, and placing rocks;
and then hasten to cover up every inch of surface,
and fill every nook or cranny with one or more
plants? The latter can be done as well, or better,
on mere ground or banks of earth, with never a rock
at all.. It is a glaring waste of force and time, as

well as an artistic blunder, to hide up all the rocks
with plants, be they never so beautiful.

The painter of landscapes never makes this mis-
take. In those in which rocks appear, they show up
boldly from the earth, and pierce high into the sky
as such. He never allows the Grape-vine or the
Ivy so to mantle them o'er as to conceal their cha-
racter or destroy their identity. The maker of
rockeries in gardens cannot do better than follow the
painter of landscapes in this respect.

But neither must he fall into the opposite and
worse extreme of leaving an excess of rock obtru-
sively apparent. The plants must be the picture, the
rocks the frame to set these off to higher and more
artistic purposes. As u rule, the worse the rock-
work the more barren, This order should be re-
versed, The best thing that could happen to
eighty per cent. of rockeries would be to let the
plants cover up and hide their hideous structural de-
formities. But of the twenty, ten, or five per cent.
of good rockeries, a fair proportion of them will bear
looking at, alike on their own merits and also as
setting off to higher advantage the exquisitely beau-
tiful Alpine or other plants that nestle at their feet,
rain down showers of beauty over their rugged sides,
or cluster like golden and silvern gems in their tiny
crannies and crevices.

THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE.

By D. T. Fisz,

PRUNING.

HE pruning ot Roses, though less severe than it
used to be, is far more complicated. Only

a few years since, the pruning of Roses was
as simple and easy as that of Gooseberries or
Currants. So soon after the fall of the leaf as
might be, the pruning was set about and com-
pleted; the times as well as the modes were regu-
lar and monotonous in the extreme; the knife
followed promptly the fall of the last leaf, and went
straight to within a single, or at the furthest, three
buds of the base of the shoots. A good deal of thought
and skill were bestowed on the character of the
cut, whether it should be up or down, or side-ways,
at a long or acute angle, or as nearly straight across
the shoot as possible. But the time to prune
was irrevocably fixed by cultivators, and the
extent of it stereotyped by custom into an un-
alterable law. Close and severe pruning was also
all but universal, and the more plants were cut the
better they were supposed to thrive. All this is
marvellously changed now; pruning, from being
almost wholly a mere mechanical operation, has been

10 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

exalted into the dignity of a science, and the old
canon—cut deep or hard to find health or bloom—
is absolutely reversed by the modern dictum—the
less pruning the better. Prevention better than cure
has also been applied to the pruning of Roses with
the happiest results; growth is now directed into
more profitable channels than the production of fagots
for the oven, or the making of charred refuse or
burnt earth for the roots of Roses. It is moulded
into blooming or furnishing shoots from the first. AU
this, however, adds very much to the difficulties of
pruning; froma single action at a set time, it has
spread out into several distinct interferences at
different periods or conditions of growth. From
being confined to the tops only,
f 1 it has descended to the roots
1 as well; at one time resorted
to chiefly as a handy means
of limiting the area of plants,
it has now become a mighty
force in the hands of cultiva-
tors in moulding their forms,
and controlling the quantity
1 and quality of their produce.
\ Roughly divided, the prun-
ing of Roses resolves itself
L into disbudding, pinching,
summer, autumn, winter,
spring, and root pruning.

Disbudding. — This is
one of the most important

a b and newest arts in modern
Fie. 30.-a, Rose- Rose-culture. The term here
shoot, with all its does not apply to the thin-

buds intact; 0b,
same shoot, with
part of its buds
removed.

ning of blossom-buds, which
is common enough, but to the
thinning out of the wood-buds
of Roses, during the autumn,
early spring, or summer. This is often practised on
vines and such-like plants, and there is no objection
to its application to Roses, excepting the time that
it takes. It is obvious, however, that if every alter-
nate bud is removed from the shoot, it will be
so much the less hard to prune at any future time.
(Fig. 30.) More than this, if these buds are removed
in the autumn during the process of bud-filling, those
left will be the better filled in consequence. The leaves
should on no account be removed with the buds, as
if left intact, and finding no bud to nurse up at
their base, they will speedily begin to pass on their
supplies to the next bud nearest to them. These
disbuddings, while the buds are yet in embryo, need
clever manipulation and a sharp knife. Practice,
however, renders the process comparatively easy.
A mere touch with a-hot wire is the quickest mode of

killing the buds; and a small movable furnace, with
half a dozen such heaters, would enable one expert
to virtually disbud enormous quantities of Roses in a
day without injury to the bark, leaf, or wood left.

Spring Disbudding is, of course, far more
easy. The majority of Roses would vastly benefit by
the carrying of this very much further than it is
now ; the majority of Rose-plants would be finer far,
in foliage as well as bloom, were half of their buds
rubbed off in the spring. All the weakest and the
worst-placed should be removed first, and then
should they still seem too closely placed, a portion
also of those which remain. :

Summer Disbudding.—By the introduction
of Hybrid Perpetual, Tea, and other Roses, the
growth of Roses does not by any means run parallel
with the seasons. On the contrary, they grow on
and on, if not for ever, at least as if there were no
winters nor other arresting contingencies ahead of
them; and, of course, with each fresh bursting of
buds, and new development of growth, the necessity
for disbudding may arise. By this simple process,
we husband force, and perfect our produce, whether
of wood or bloom. By the practice of disbudding
we may place growth just where we want it most,
and also expose it more thoroughly to light and air.
The consumption of plant-food is husbanded, and
all of it is turned to more useful purpose. No more
waste of vital power nor ‘plant-food, are vir-
tually the highly satisfactory results of disbudding.
Huge shoots are no longer grown for knife-food, but
to give symmetry or size to the Rose-bushes or trees,
and to crown them with fragrance and beauty.

Pinching or Stopping the Young Shoots.
—So soon as the one bud on the worked briar, or
the several buds on the grafted plant, or the vigo-
rous buds left on the disbudded ones break into
shootlets, and have made from four to six leaves,
stop them by pinching their top off between the finger
and thumb. This pinching may be designated the
second easy step in pruning, and if skilfully per-
formed just when and where wanted, little more or
other pruning may be needed. (Fig. 31.)

It may seem strange to the uninitiated that a
chapter on pruning should open with paragraphs
tending to throw doubt on its necessity or useful-
ness. But only thus can its theory and practice be
understood. Prevention in regard to pruning is
infinitely preferable to cure. No one with any sense
prunes for the mere love of cutting off Rose or other
shoots. Hence, if we can gain our object through
gentler methods, theso are surely preferable to those
surgical amputations that savour of cruelty and
barbarism, and look marvelously like blunders.

THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE. il

The object of pinching is to break up and dis-
tribute growing force, so that instead of one channel
or shoot, there shall be several, or many. Such
changes of form in the development of Roses im-
prove their form and enhance their usefulness.
Were Roses grown for their wood, their vital force
could hardly be too much concentrated. The one-
shoot system would be the perfection of culture.
But as they are grown for bloom, and also in a
secondary sense for their form, their growths should
be moulded towards these objects from the first.
Possibly, as the art of pruning is better understood,

the practice of it, so far as

that consists in the mere lop-

ping off of wood, will almost

cease. The pinching and

stopping of growing shoots is

the first step towards this

desirable end. Pinch in time,

2 and intelligently, and but

little more or different wood
will be made than is needed
for the rosarian’s purposes.
Most of our prunings are but
clumsy efforts to rectify pre-
vious mistakes. Each useful
shoot removed represents a
waste of intelligence as well as
awaste of force. But we have
not yet arrived at that perfect

ways, as will enable us to quite
dispense with pruning, and
practise pinching in its stead.
On the contrary, perhaps no
plant’ is subjected to more
pruning than the Rose. The
tendency, however, is to prune
less, and with more discrimina-
tion; though the art of a pinch in time to save nine,
or any number of cuts afterwards, is as yet in its
infancy.

Fig. 31.—Rose-shoot,
pincned or jae
at different 1

The Pinching of Newly-worked Plants.
—This is often resorted to for other reasons than those
already advanced. It prevents the most promising
shoots of buds and grafts from being wrenched out
or off by the wind. Means of preventing this by
the use of supports have been already pointed out,
but the best means is to pinch the strong shoot back
within three or four or more buds of its base. The
wind is:thus deprived of its purchase, and, better
still, the vital force is forced back or concentrated
in the base of the shoot. It then performs dual
functions of the utmost moment to the future wel-
fare of the Rose. The embryo buds are filled up,

Imowledge of Rose-life and-

developed, forced into shoots in an incredibly short
time, and the shoot itself is fixed on or into the
stem with far greater tenacity and strength. Hence,
in consequence of the compound benefit of pinching,
these secondary shoots are seldom or never blown
out or wrenched off.

Another great advantage arises from the close
pinching back of newly-worked plants. Rose-buds,
like Peach and several other buds, are mostly
produced in threes. True, one bud only, as a rule,
is developed; but, nevertheless, that one is flanked
on either side by a smaller one, which, under
ordinary circumstances, are seldom developed into
shoots. But stop the central shoot hard back
towards its base, and these two lateral buds are
developed, and three Rose-shoots spring forth from
the one bud instead of one, and these independently
of the shoots that may also break forth from the
base-buds of the central or chief eye or shoot.
Thus, the material of a Rose-tree is produced at
once, and is forced back to grip the stock or stem
with a firmness and tenacity that mostly proves
wind-proof.

Root-pruning.—This of necessity has always
been more or less practised. Unless Roses were
sown or budded in their permanent quarters, it
is obvious that they could not be placed there
without more or less root-pruning. The hedge-
row briars, too, have their roots roughly enough
slashed about with mattock and spade in lifting, and
they are further pruned on the block, with axe, bill-
hook, saw, or secateur; and as if that were not
enough, their lacerated root-stocks are not unfre-
quently tossed about and exposed to sun, frost,
and biting winds as if they were lifeless things,
and so not a few of them are before they get back
to earth.

Some such cuttings and carvings of roots may be
unavoidable, but the fewer and the less of these the
better, as these are not what are here meant by
root-pruning, nor is transplantation, though that
often necessitates root-pruning in its severest form.
Suckers should be removed, bruised roots cut off
with a sharp knife, leaving a short clean cut; but

-all good healthy roots should be left intact. The

detachment of the roots from the soil will prove a
sufficient check to growth without reducing their
numbers, though as a fact they are greatly reduced
in the process.

But all this is compulsory. By root-pruning
here is meant special and voluntary pruning for
specific purposes. The first of these is to prevent
the need of so much top-pruning. A Rose-piant
runs to wood chiefly, The old remedy was to cut
the wood back severely. The result was mostly

12 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

more wood still, and of greater strength than be-
fore. The modern remedy for excessive top growth
is root-pruning. (Fig. 32.) Search out for and
find a few of the strongest roots, cut them back
to within a foot or so of the root-stock, and any
excess of top growth will begin to cease from that
moment.

Another result of root-pruning is an increased
amount of bloom. Moderate-sized wood is generally
more floriferous than that which is more robust.
But, in addition to that, a reduction of the number of

posts. These will largely assist in the formation
and rapid development of a better class of—that is,
more fibrous—roots.

Amateurs and tyros in Rose-culture are apt to
think that with the fall of the leaf their labour
and duties to their Roses alike come to an end.
There could hardly be a greater mistake. It is
just then that the cultivator can do the most
and best for his Roses. During the summer, as 4

rule, he can only work upon or manipulate their
tops.

The autumnal and winter seasons throw the

Fig. 32.—a, Rose-tree, with roots unpruned; b, the same Rose, with roots pruned, showing how the root-
pruning modifies root and top growth, as described in text.

the roots, and their disturbance, favour bloom and
discourage growth.

Method and Times of Root-pruning.—
These, as we have already seen, are indirect and
direct. The mere moving of the roots to see if
pruning be needful is an example of the former, and
even were none cut or destroyed, some of the bene-
fit of pruning would result from it. The extent of
the direct pruning will have to be determined on the
spot, and will depend on the number, size, and
health, fleetness or otherwise of the roots, and the
vigour of the tops. One-half or two-thirds of the
stronger may generally be cut with safety. The
uncovering of the roots also affords an excellent op-
portunity of removing the whole of the underground
stems or suckers, and of applying fresh soil or com-

roots open to his free und safe interference. October
is the best on the whole for root-pruning. "Wounds
made then heal almost on the heels of the knife. Roots
(see chapter on Prantine) are formed at that season
with extraordinary rapidity. Sufficient time also
intervenes between the root-pruning and the growing
season, to enable the roots to minister to the wants of
the branches soon after starting in the spring.

Summer Root-pruning.—This, where a more
severe check is desirable, may be given in June or
July. Just as the first blooming is over, the first
growth almost matured, and before the second
growth, on such Roses as Perpetuals, starts, is a good
time to root-prune the over-vigorous. The process
must not be carried toe far, nor indeed is it neces-
sary, as far less root-pruning in summer will prove as

THE ROSE AND

efficient as a more severe pruning in winter. Care-
fully remove the surface soil down to the roots, trace
out the main portion by proceeding to uncover from
the bole to the extremity, and cut off one or more
of the strongest within a foot or so of the root-stock ;
pull out the severed roots if possible, fill in with soil,
and should the weather be dry, water home, and the
root-pruning is finished. As the roots removed
may probably have formed the main supports of the
Roses, it will be most desirable to see to re-staking
and tying them if needful; and should they show
any signs of distress, an overhead watering in the
evening will speedily revive them.

Summer and Autumnal Thinning.—This
is another expedient for lessening the amount of
wood cut out at what we shall presently describe
and illustrate as the general pruning, and also for
improving the quality of the wood left. Assuming
that disbudding, pinching, and root-pruning were
carefully attended to, there should be little useless
wood in the Rose-bush or tree. Nevertheless, there
is mostly an abundance of it, and hence this section.
Any such growth may be removed at almost any
time, nevertheless July and October are the best
seasons for thinning out superfluous or useless wood ;
the wounds heal more rapidly then than at other
seasons, and the removal of superfluous wood perfects
the maturity of that left on the plants. It also
affords more space and imparts more strength to the
second breaks of Hybrid Perpetual, Tea, and other
autumnal-blooming Roses. The more light, air, and
food these have, the more and better they bloom,
and fora longer period. Early autumnal thinning
out of superfluous wood is desirable for the same
reasons, and also gives a completeness of maturation
to the Rose wood that enables it to withstand with
more certainty the severities of the winter. Thus,
not a few of the more solid advantages of autumnal
pruning are gained, while all the main shoots that
contribute to next year’s harvest of Roses are left
intact, and consequently, as shall be explained pre-
sently, in safety.

The General Pruning of Roses.—This, not-
withstanding that the way has been considerably
cleared to a comprehension of its principles and
practice by these preliminary sections, is still one of
the most difficult and delicate operations in Rose-
culture. The great family of the Rose includes within
itself plants of the most varied stature, character,
form, and modes of growth. Some are deciduous,
others evergreen ; some tender, others hardy ; some
have a spreading, others a vertical habit; some make
one growth a year, others two or many; some reach
to six inches, others are twenty feet in height. And

ITS CULTURE. 13
hence arises the necessity for different times and
modes of pruning. To cut all to one pattern at one
time would ruin nine-tenths of our Roses. This
short and easy method of pruning was only prac-
tised when most of the Roses pruned were very
much alike. They made one growth a year, ripened
their buds, and shed their leaves in the autumn;
spread abroad their bare boughs to the pruner, were
cut back to within two or three eyes of their base,
broke into shrublets in the spring, bloomed, ripened,
were pruned again, and so on and on for a lifetime,
never missing a season, and growing but little in bulk
for ten or even twenty years. Delightfully simple,
is it not? Yes, and the most of our summer, Moss,
Scotch, and several other Roses, may yet be pruned
and treated thus, with equally certain results.

But as to other Roses, and starting with modes of
pruning, the common division into long and short
pruning imparts but a vague idea of the difficulties
of deciding that point. Long pruning may mean a
foot, a yard, six feet, or even more ; short pruning,
anything from one inch to twelve. And thus, in
general terms, it may be affirmed that long pruning
is best for the stronger-growing Roses, and short or
“sharp” pruning, as it is often called, for the
weaker ones.

But what an endless latitude the words strong and
weak srowers introduce into the matter of pruning!
These are but samples of the difficulties in pruning
Roses; and our object will be, as far as possible, to
show every reader how to avoid or overcome them.

Long Pruning.—It must be borne in mind
that the term is a technical one, and does not, as
might be supposed, mean that the portion pruned off
is long, but the reverse. A branch long-pruned is
left almost intact, with little more than its points
removed; and it is in this that the modern pruning
of Roses completely reverses the older and more
primitive ways. The more a shoot grew, the more
should be cut off it, was their short rule of theory,
and code of practice. But the plants would not
submit to it, though forced upon them at the point
of the knife and the sharp teeth of the pruning-
saw. The harder they were cut back, the faster
and stronger they grew. A‘ter a vain struggle for
centuries against the laws of nature, the combat has
been given up, and long pruning generally accepted
as the most efficient check to overgrowth, and the
surest receipt for abundance of bloom on strong-
growing Roses. The faster and stronger and further
a Rose grows, the less it should be pruned, and vie:
versd. Hence the converse of long pruning is

Short or Close Pruning.—In this case the
part removed is long, and the spur left on the tree is

14 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

short. This is the best way of pruning weakly-
growing Roses, Notwithstanding what is advanced
in this chapter, and in previous sections, on the impor-
tance of breaking up and diffusing vital force into
many rather than one channel, yet it is equally
needful at times to concentrate force, for concentra-
tion of vital energy is power. And it is found in
practice that the easiest way to strengthen weakly-
growing Roses is to short-prune them to a single or
very few buds. The force that would otherwise
have been diffused through six or a dozen buds and
shoots, is thus concentrated into one, two, or three
as the case may be. See the illustrations of long

Roses under glass to another occasion—there are
three general seasons for the pruning of out-of-door
Roses, with various times for disbudding, pinching,
and root-pruning abreast of or between these prun-
ing times. These are autumn or winter, spring, and
summer.

The Autumnal Pruning of Roses.— The
two months of October and November are the most
suitable for this. Not only is the frost, if any,
less severe, but the wounds get partially healed over
before the severities of the winter strike, injure, and
hinder from healing the newly-made wounds. Not

Fig. 33.—Long Pruning.

and short pruning, and their results, which make all
this plain.

But of course there are endless gradations be-
tween these two extremes, and only practice among
the Roses themselves will teach the whole art of
prummg. And not only the quantity of bloom, but
its quality, is largely dependent on the mode of
pruning adopted, and the extent to which it is
carried. Prune too little, you may have many
blooms of inferior character; prune too much, you
may have a few fine ones or none at all. Those,
however, who prune for the highest quality of
flowers only or chiefly, must prune harder—that is,
cut closer—than those who prune for size or form of
plant, as well as quality.

The Time to Prune Roses.— Those culti-
vators who grow quantities alike out of doors and
under glass, prune every month in the year, per-
petual pruning being in fact the surest receipt for
continuous blooming. But—leaving the pruning of

Fig. 34—Short or Close Pruning.

only this, but having pruned off the superfluous
wood, the buds left for bloom have the whole of the
so-called dead season before them, and fill up into
larger size and firmer substance. For the fluids of
plants are by no means stagnant, nor the forces of
growth at rest, during winter. Hence, as already
pointed out, for all really hardy and non-excitable
Roses—such as the Cabbage, Moss, Provence, Alba,
Gallica, Scotch, Ayrshire, and other climbers—
autumn or winter pruning is the best. All these
Roses also, except some of the two last, thrive and
flower best short or close pruned. Prune early, and
cut hard, are also good rules for hastening the bloom-
ing season the following year.

The Austrian Briar, or Persian Yellow, is, how-
ever, an exception to this close pruning of once-a-
year blooming Roses. Some of the morc excitable
Roses, such as the Hybrid Perpetuals, may also be
partially pruned in the autumn to insure their
safety from high storms of wind that not un-
frequently bréak, bruise, or destroy such. These

THE ROSE AND

may be shortened back one-third or so of their
entire length without causing serious injury to the
base-shoots by forcing them to break prematurely.
All the weakly shoots may also be removed, as
already advised, to admit more light and air to the
shoots left. These thinning processes not only enable
the shoots to resist the frost better, but keep their
buds longer dormant, for the riper the wood the less
susceptible the buds, and vice versd.

Spring Pruning.—.s the once-a-year flower-
ing Roses are disappearing rapidly before those
that flower twice or oftener, so autumn or winter
pruning is dying out among the Roses. The wide
difference in character and constitution necessitates
quite a different time of pruning. Were we to
prone Hybrid Perpetual, Tea, Noisette, Bourbon,
and China Roses in the autumn, and in mild
winters almost without frost till the end of
February, the buds left for bloom would be from
four to six inches in length, and become tender food
for March frosts, instead of gems of beauty in the
garden next June. All this is much aggravated by
the dangerous excitability of the modern race of
Roses. The infusion of Indian and Chinese blood is
so great, its potency on constitution so marked, that
the best strains of modern Roses seem never at ab-
solute rest. Hardly has one flower faded when an-
other treads on its heels, nor one shoot ripened before
its buds break into fresh ones, and so on throughovt
the seascn. Fresh developments may be suppressed
by cold, but the growth, frozen into inaction to-day,
is quickened into greater speed by the thawing and
quickening sunshine of to-morrow.

All this complicates the time of pruning Roses so
much that the wisest and most experienced stand
and hold, as it were, knife in hand, longing yet
fearing to prune. The unpruned shoots burst into
growing shoots along almost their entire lengths; the
waste of force and of time seems most extravagant.
But our hopes of success lie in those semi-dormant
buds at their base, and hence pruning is mostly
deferred until March, and for Teas, April or even
May.

Those early-growing shoots are the rosarian’s
safety-valves. They carry off the earliest and the
strongest current cf life, and while it flows through
these, the base-buds sleep on and take their rest.

And yet the late pruning is at best only a com-
promise, a choice of the lesser evil out of two.
Were it possible to be assured that no severe frosts
would come after February, Roses of most sorts
might be pruned in November. But the winter
seems every year to come less and less in winter,
and then to make up for its absence it chases the
rosarian far into the summer. Hence, it is no

ITS CULTURE. 13
uncommon thing to have Tea Roses blackened in
May. And, humiliating as it may appear, it must
nevertheless be admitted that the date of what is
called spring pruning must be largely determined
by that most capricious of all potential elements
in horticulture—the weather. As nothing is certain
in regard to it, but that the most unexpected is
the most likely to occur, the best-laid schemes of
rosarians, as of other men, are often upset by it.
On the whole, however, and in the average of seasons,
about the middle of March is the safest month to
prune all the Hybrid Perpetual Roses, leaving Teas
and tender Noisettes until April.

What Growth shall the Pruner Cut to?
—This is a modern question arising out of the
character and conditions of the growth of modern
Roses. The majority of these make two growths
a year, the one ripening in June or July, the
other in September or October. The tendency of
this double growth is to remove the plant by
a compound process of extension very rapidly
from its base or starting-point, the root-stock,
or, in standards, the point of union of the scion
with the stock. One of the objects of pruning
is to keep the plant, of whatever form, within
reasonable distance of its base. Distinctions in
the qualities of the flowers and of the shoots have
also been drawn between those produced on summer
and on autumn-made wood. As a rule, however, it is
best for the future form and health of the tree to
cut boldly back to the summer wood (4, Fig. 33), as it
is called; that is, the ripened shoots of the previous
spring. Were the opposite course adopted, and the
antumn shoot only pruned back to ¢, the probability
is that the major portion of the buds on the lower por-
tion of the shoot between @ and 4 would remain dor-
mant. The Rose-tree would thus become thin at its
base, and soon have a lanky, scarecrow appearance.
There is another advantage in cutting back to the
summer-made wood. This being, on the whole,
more mature, and possibly partially emptied of its
fluids to produce the second shoot or shoots on its
crown, its buds are longer in breaking than those on
the younger shoot above it, and every day’s delay in
the bursting of Rose-shoots in the spring gives an
additional chance of safety. The retarding of the
buds is, in fact, the chief vindication of spring
pruning. In pursuit of this object, the growing
buds on their extremities are allowed to run away
freely with sap and growing force, and the pruncr
refuses to use his knife until the advancing season
and the bursting buds at the base of the shoots
compel him. In pruning for bloom chiefly, there is
another safe rule of pretty general application, and
that is—prune to the best buds on the shoot, no

16 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

matter where found. The largest and roundest buds
are mostly the best, if these are thoroughly matured ;
and such buds may be found at times at various
portions of the growing shoots. For example, they
will mostly be found at the base of such short and
sturdy-growing Roses as Baroness Rothschild, about
the middle of such vigorous growers as Duke of Edin-
burgh, and towards the summit of such sorts as
Coupe @’Hébé. Hence the first should be short or
close-pruned, the second to a moderate length, and
the third long-pruned. And so the principle of
gradation of length, as well as time, must run along
and through the entire art of Rose-pruning.

The Summer Pruning of Roses.— The
term is here confined to Tea Roses and the pruning
of the spring or summer shoots of the Hybrid
Perpetuals so soon as their first blooms have faded.
It is hardly safe to prune ‘l'ea Roses in the open air
until the end of April or the first week in May.
These, as they vary so greatly in vigour, must also
be pruned differently, such strong growers as
Gloire de Dijon, Climbing Devoniensis, Marshal
Niel, and Belle Lyonnaise being pruned much longer
than Niphetos, President, and Marie van Houtte.
But, unless carefully protected, the severity of the
winter mostly takes a good deal of the pruning of
‘Tea Roses off our hands. It not seldom degenerates
into a mere mechanical removal of dead or dying
wood, or the cutting off the frost-bitten, slain plants
to the level of the ground. But where all is well,
and tne Roses have passed safely through the winter
months, no hard and fast lines can be laid down for
the pruning of Tea Roses; for in these we may
have not only two, but many successional growths to
take into account, not a few of the Teas being virtually
perpetual bloomers, because they never cease growing.
Hardly has one set of Roses opened fully when the
buds on the flowering shoots are showing a succes-
sion of peeping buds, as though the in-comers were
anxious to see the old flowers before they disappear.
Hence the careful thinning out of the weakest and
equal distribution of the stronger shoots is not
seldom the only pruning possible, or indeed desirable,
for Teas. Their recuperative force, however, is so
great that, whether pruned lightly or heavily by
art, or yet more ruthlessly by the heavy and ruth-
less forces of nature in her bleakest, hardest moods,
the Teas, if alive, are sure to recover and spring
forth into new life and beauty with the advent of
genial weather.

The Summer Pruning of Spring and
Bummer Shoots.—Some years ago the practice
was more common than it is now to go over the
Hybrid Perpetual, and other twice-blooming Roses,

directly the flowers faded, and cut back the flower-
ing shoot more or less closely to its base. This
forced the second shoots out nearer home than if they
had sprung from the head of the shoot. By cutting
to the most likely bud, and disbudding most of the
others, a stronger second shoot was also secured.
Fewer shoots and finer being thus obtained, the
autumn bloom was, on the whole, finer in conse-
quence. The tops of the shoots were also used for
scions or cuttings, as well as the weaker ones that
were thinned out; the latter being cut off with a heel
formed the best cuttings. This summer pruning not
only favoured a better autumnal growth of blossom,
but simplified the practice of winter or spring
pruning by settling beforehand, asa rule, the dual
claims of the two classes of growth already referred
to. As arule, the base or some part of the second
growth was generally cut back, too, either in the
autumn or spring. But as the rush of sap is always
to the top, this summer pruning made some of the
second growths later than they would have been.
Hence, partly, and also on account of the consider-
able labour it involved at a busy time, it is not now
very common.

Another Kind of Summer Pruning.—
This is mostly applicable to Banksian, Marshal
Niel, and a few other Roses. It consists in the close
cutting off the flowering shoots so soon as the flowers
fade. The plants almost immediately break into
fresh growth, and this growth is left intact until
it flowers next year, when the process of pruning,
growing, and flowering is repeated ad infinitum.
One constantly hears complaints of the Banksian
Roses—of which the small white, so deliciously frag-
rant, and the small clustered yellow, are by far
the best—not flowering, or blooming but scantily.
How can they when their flowering shoots aro
spurred off wholesale.in the spring? Planted on
the south or west side of a house or outbuilding, they
will climb up fifteen or twenty feet, and extend to
quite as great a breadth, and literally smother the
building every May with their drooping wreaths or
pendants of bloom, many of them extending from
one to three yards in length. There is no richer or
more pleasing sight among all the Roses, rare and
sweet, than these charming Daisy Roses without a
thorn treated and pruned thus. It is most important
that they should be pruned early, not « day being
lost between the fading of the bloom and their
severe pruning, to allow as much time as possible
for their growth to be made and matured before the
winter. This thorough ripening of the wood is
essential to enable such semi-tender Roses to endure
the severities of winter, as well as to insure a prouigal
profusion of bloom.

THE ROSE AND

Pruning as a Means of Renovation—
The increased vigour of a grazed vine is said
to have first directed attention to the merits of
pruning. Be that as it may, there is no doubt
that the removal of weakly or superfluous wood
has a stimulating influence on Roses. This is
most marked often in the case of tall stan-
dard or climbing Roses. These, from their wide
area, and the enormous amount of foliage and bloom,
naturally become exhausted sooner than others,
Hence the necessity of exceptionally severe pruning
at times to renew their health and vigour. Branches
may not only be shortened, but entire limbs or parts
of the Rose may be removed bodily. Sometimes the
entire head may be cut off. The best season for these
radical prunings is the autumn or winter. Such
very extreme measures are seldom needful, unless
in the case of previous neglect: They are mostly,
however, when adopted, quite effective in re-invi-
gorating the Rose-trees. Huge adventitious—that
is, forced or unnatural—buds are formed in the
bark, nurtured into size and strength during winter,
and burst into vigorous growth in the spring, and
these renew the strength and the growth of the Rose-
tree. In other cases such buds show and break before
the plants are cut back. In all such it is well to
take stock of the condition of the plant, and act
accordingly, If its general health is all that can
be desired, rub off these buds at once; but if not,
carefully cultivate them, and cut back as much and
as far as possible, to give them a better chance.

Strong-growing climbing Roses, mostly on their
own roots, very often throw up such shoots from
their root-stocks, or the base of their main branches.
One or more of these succession shoots should be
preserved almost every year, and some of the older
shoots cut out. By such skilful manipulations the
health and vigour of such Roses are preserved, and
they continue to be objects of verdure and beauty
for a life-time. In fact, by this system, all that is
partially exhausted, or wholly worn out, is removed
annually, and new wood, full of youthful force, is
brought forward inits stead. Nor is this all, for
the new wood above has its counterpart in fresh
roots below, so that the entire plant is rejuvenated by
these methods of pruning. Perhaps this plan of re-
suscitating partially worn-out Roses is less practised
than it'used to be: The life of individual plants is
less prized now that the art of budding, and other
means of propagating Roses, are better understood
and more widely practised. Still sentiment and
common sense suggest the wisdom of saving old
Roses, and virtually making them young again, by
such simple modes as those here described. Roses
thus treated not only renew their youth, but fre-
quently far eclipse all their earlier beauty.

26

ITS CULTURE. 17
. The Pruning of Different-shaped and
Sized Roses.—<s these must first be formed before
they are pruned, and as in their formation training
must run abreast of or overlap pruning, it will be
most useful to explain the two processes together in
our next chapter on the Trainine of Roses, which
will therefore open with a section on the efficacy
of pruning in moulding Roses into shape.

Pruning Implements.—A sentence or two on
these will fitly conclude this chapter. The kmife for
pruning Roses may either have a straight or curved
blade. It matters little, so long as it is sufficiently
strong and sharp. Both these qualities are essential.
Hence, unless for small plants and the mere cutting
of the current year’s wood, budding-knives are of
little use. The point should also be rather narrow,
very sharp, and specially strong. Dead Rose snags,
as they are called, are hard as stags’ horns almost,
and when not too large for the Imife- should be
whipped off with one clean cut.

When large, or for the removal of big branches,
the handiest implement is 4 small-toothed, narrow,
specially sharp saw. The saw-cuts should, however,
always be trimmed over afterwards, to make them
smooth and clean, and thus facilitate their rapid
healing. It is a fact that vegetable tissues will
hardly close over a saw-cut, but heal rapidly over a
smooth cut of the knife.

The same remark applies to the cut of shears, or
the secateur, so popular as a Rose and other pruner
in France, which may be most succinctly described
as scissors with one cutting edge. These, and
especially the latter, bruise the wood and the
bark; neither is the cut so clean as that of a
sharp knife. Both shears and secateurs are often
used on climbing, pillar, pyramidal, and tall stan-
dards to save time. But neither equals the knife,
and it is astonishing how rapidly this does its work
in skilful hands.

Dressing the Wounds.—This is quite a
mistake. though not a few rosarians practise it.
It is like the old plan of dipping a cut into
Friar’s Balsam to make it heal the sooner. It
did just the reverse, and increased the pain ten-
fold to boot. Bind it up in the blood, and it
begins to heal at once. And so in a measure with
the growing bark and the sap of Roses. Make the
wounds as small, cut them as smooth and clean as
possible, and leave the healing to nature, and it will
be done well, and as speedily as possible. Dress them
over, no matter much what with, and you hindet
the process of healing, and render the perfect sound-
ness of the wound impossible. Ges

.

18 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

ORCHIDS.

By Wit.iiam Huecu Gower,

INTRODUCTION.

HE name Orchis, or Orchid, is derived from the
two peculiar pendulous tubercles which form the
root of many of the terrestrial species. The beautiful
eolours and singular shapes of the flowers found
in this order have always attracted special attention ;
and this, combined with the length of time the
blooms continue in perfection, has caused them to

become general favourites.
The flowers of Orchids derive their fantastic shapes
from the fact of their being irregular—that is to say,
they are not simply made up of calyx and corolla,

each of which is easily defined by its shape and.

eolour, or as in the case of other flowers in which
both calyx and corolla are alike (perianth). But in
Orchids we have a flower made up of several parts,
each different in shape, and in some instances all
differing in colour. The illustration here given of a
Phalenopsis flower will fully illustrate our meaning,
whilst the various figures we shall give to illustrate
the genera, will serve to show some of the extra-
ordinary forms which the flowers of this order
assume. Again, the peculiar stems of Orchids are
called pseudo-bulbs, or false bulbs, on account of
the swollen and often bulb-like appearance of their
growth,

In the early days of our acquaintance with these

plants, their high prices and the extreme difficulty
which apparently attended their cultivation, made
them the exclusive property of the very wealthy few.
Now, however, we have increased our knowledge of
the conditions under which they thrive in their native
habitats, and the ease and rapidity with which they
ean be transferred is so great, that thousands of
plants arrive in this country every month; and thus
prices have been reduced to such an extent as to
bring them within the reach of every one having
a glass-house. Not that there are no high-priced
- Orchids even in these days. On the contrary, any
new species, or an extra good variety of an old and
well-known species, is more eagerly sought after
than ever, and numerous instances occur every year
where amateurs are found who willingly give fifty,
eighty, or a hundred guineas to become the happy
possessor of some special or unique form. Never-
theless, for the comfort of those who are about
to commence the fascinating pursuit of Orchid-
growing, we can assure them that some of the most
beautiful kinds in this grand family of plants are
those which are the most reasonable in price.

Temperature.—With the information brought
us respecting Orchids by those who have collected

them in their wild state, coupled with rational treat-
ment at home, these plants are now found to be
as.easily managed as any others. One great objec-
tion to Orchid-growing in the earlier days was
the enormous consumption of fuel, which had a
rather formidable appearance on paper when the cost
was added up at the end of the year. These were
the days when, because a plant came from the Hast
Indies or South America, it was supposed to require
as much heat as a cook’s salamander—the fact of the.
vast mountain ranges of both hemispheres being —
densely clothed with verdure up to many thousand
feet elevation being completely ignored. This fact
is now fully recognised, and it is found that com-
paratively little expense is incurred in keeping these
mountain plants supplied. with sufficient heat. There
are, however, some kinds which do require a strong
heat to maintain them in health and develop their
beauties, such as the Angre#cums, from Africa and
the African Islands, the Aerides, Vandas, Phaleenopsis,
and Saccolabiums from the low mainland of India,
and from the Indian islands, &c. These undoubtedly
do require a large amount of artificial heat. For
those’ who have large collections, therefore, we
advise ‘three separate houses, or one house divided
into three, by which means the peculiar temperatures
necessary for the well-being of the plants can be
easily maintained. Those who have but a single
house for their pets must endeavour to keep one
portion of it cooler than the other by means of
ventilation. The temperatures should be about as
follows :—

1. The East Indian House, as its name implies,
should be used for all the plants from low elevations
in the East Indies, as well as any other hot countries.
The summer temperature of this house should range
from about 75° at night up to 90° with sun during
the day. A free circulation of air should be main-
tained, but the atmosphere should be well charged
with moisture, so that it does not become arid. The
winter temperature, 60° to 65° by night, running up
to 70° or 75° by day.

2. The Brazilian House.—This will accommodate
all the plants from the low regions of the Western
Hemisphere. Summer temperature, 65° to 70° by
night, up to about 80° or 85° by day with sun-
heat. Winter temperature, 60° by night, up to 65°
or 70° by day with sunshine. In this house a certain
space should be left entirely without shade, in order
to accommodate such plants as some of the Lelias,
Coryanthes, and similar plants, which thrive best
close to the glass, and love full exposure to the sun’s
rays. This we designate the Mexican division.

3. The Peruvian House.—This will include all the
mountain plants from the Western world, and also
some of those from the Himalayas. Summer tem-

ORCHIDS. 19

perature, 60° by night, up to about 70° or 75° by
day; indeed, unless this house faces the north, it
will be found sometimes extremely difficult to keep
it sufficiently cool. Winter temperature, 45° or 50°
by night, up to about 60° by day.

Our readers will quite understand that these figures
are not intended as hard and fast lines, but are simply
given as a general guide. There is no royal road to
the cultivation of Orchids, and nothing but practice
will enable the cultivator to arrive at success. By
constant attention and careful observation, the eye
will soon detect any falling off in health of a parti-

in an artificial manner when they are grown by
themselves. It does not require much thought or
practice to become fully aware that it would be
extremely difficult to cultivate Orchids in our stoves
with a general collection of plants, but the effect
of an Orchid-house is greatly improved by the intro-
duction of some of the slender-stemmed Tree Ferns
from the tropics; also by some of the beautiful-
leaved climbing Aroids, which may be trained to
cover pillars and rafters. These latter plants are
not much infested with insects, and, being so
amenable to the pruning-kmife, can always be kept

FLOWER OF aN OrcHID. (Phalenopsis Schilleriana.)
1, The sepals; 2, petals; 3, labellum or lip; 4, the column.

cular plant; and the snuggest and warmest corner,
or a more airy situation, as the requirements may be,
will soon be found for it, the reward of which will
be increased vigour in the previously sick plant.

Arrangement of Orchid-houses.—The pre-
vailing fashion is to devote a house or houses to
the cultivation of Orchids exclusively, but this prac-
tice, taking into consideration the natural habits of
the plants, we consider entirely erroneous. Growing
as they do, surrounded by the luxurious tropical
vegetation, many of them high up in the branches
of the forest trees, why are they, when brought to
this country, deprived of the company of other
plants? Indeed, there cannot be the slightest doubt
that other plants with thinner leaves tend to produce
an atmosphere more congenial to the requirements
af Orchidaceous plants than it is possible to produce

within proper bounds; then the curious and beau-
tiful genus of Nepenthes, or Pitcher Plants, of which
we have now so many choice forms, are fine adjuncts,
either as basket plants or trailed up the rafters.
Indeed, there is no lack of material. Such plants
as small-growing Palms, of which Geonoma, Cocos,
Chameedorea, Rhaphia, &c. &c., produce many speci-
mens of great beauty, are admirably adapted for the
purpose. Standing up above the Orchids, their
graceful leaves form a genial shade, and, as their
stems are so slender, no obstruction is formed to the
full view of the beautiful fiowers below. These
plants we should confine to the ornamentation of the
East Indian House, and recommend vines to be
grown in the Brazilian House, but not planted so
close as in an ordinary vinery, treated upon the spur
system, and the leaves kept thinned. Under these
conditions the vines will produce a good crop of

20 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

grapes, which every one knows full well how to
utilise, while the leaves will afford an agreeable
shade to the plants. In the Peruvian House, in
addition to cool country Ferns, we advise the roof
to be thinly covered with the shoots of the red and
white forms of Lapagorias. The temperature will
suit these plants exactly, and their beautiful pen-
dulous bell-shaped flowers will produce an effect not
often realised, but never to be forgotten.

Potting.—It will not be necessary to enlarge
‘upon the potting or basketing of Orchids, as the
details will be given in treating of each genus sepa-
rately. Suffice it to say that the material used for the
epiphytal kinds should be living Sphagnum, and
the fibrous portion of peat which is left after all
the fine soil has been beaten out. Such plants, how-
ever, as Vandas, Aerides, Angreecums, Saccolabiums,
&c. &c., do not like peat-fibre, but should have
Sphagnum only.

In potting epiphytes with pseudo-bulbs, the mate-
rial should be raised above the rim of the pot into
the form of a little cone, and the base of the pseudo-
bulbs must sit upon the summit. This system is
necessary in order to prevent decay to the eyes,
which spring from the base. The same also will
apply to Dendrobriums, &c., which have stem-like
pseudo-bulbs, but is not. material in the case of the
distichous kinds, such as Aerides and Vandas, which
continue to grow from the summit.

Orchid-pots have already been treated upon, the

perforated ones being the most preferable, because
they allow the roots to push into the air, and thus,
instead of the roots dying, as they too frequently do
in close pots, they continue healthy and give proper
nourishment to the plants. With the terrestrial
dinds, however, the case is very different. Here the
ordinary pots must be used, and the soil required
is much closer, in some instances even stiff loam
being the most suitable. With these plants the soil
does not require elevating above the rim of the pot,
but in all-and every case the drainage must be
perfect.

The plants grown upon blocks require but a very
small quantity of moss; this should be fastened on
with fine copper wire. There is no doubt that this
is the most natural mode of treatment, but very much
more care is required in their culture, it being almost
impossible to keep the atmosphere sufficiently charged
with moisture for their sustenance.

Rest.—Orchids for the most part require a period
of rest which corresponds with the dry season
of their native habitats, although some of the
mountain species from New Grenada and Peru
would appear to have no season of repose. We

a

often read of the terrible drought which vegetation ©

has to endure in many parts of Asia, and no doubt
hundreds of plants never survive the ordeal; but as
the Orchid-grower at home wishes every one of his
plants to awake, the trial must not be too severe.
Resting is an operation which requires discretion.
After growth is completed and well set up, the
temperature’ should be lowered, and the supply of
water gradually withdrawn. When the plant
appears to be quite dormant, the supply may be
stopped, and unless the leaves or pseudo-bulbs show
signs of distress by shrivelling, no more should be
given until the time comes round for again starting
it into growth.

Diseases.—These plants like all others are
subject to disease, which in some instances is
brought about through the agency of insect pests.
A disease called the “spot,” from the canker-like
blotches which show themselves on the leaves, and
which in many instances spreads rapidly, causing
destruction to the symmetry of the plant, and even
death, has to a very great extent disappeared
lately from our collections. This we attribute
to the more rational treatment which these plants
now receive, the disease arising from a super-

abundance of moisture during winter, combined ,

with a foul and stagnant atmosphere. But even

this is not a disease brought about by cultivation, / :
for we have seen marks of it on the leaves of newly-

imported plants, thus proving that the plants may
meet with uncongenial surroundings even in a
state of nature.

Orchids, especially the kinds with two-ranked

leaves, are very much disfigured at times by their
young leaves turning a dirty rust-colour, instead of
bright green. These have had all the colour drawn
out of them by an insect called the red-thrip. It
is perhaps the worst pest the cultivator has to
contend with. Some advise fumigating as the best
means of destroying them. We are, however, opposed
to fumigating Orchids, having found that such plants
as Vandas invariably lose some of the lower leaves @
few days after the operation, which of course de-
stroyed the symmetry of the plants and reduced their
value. Our experience with the red-thrip proves
that dusting the parts affected with tobacco-powder,
allowing it to remain on fora day or two withont
becoming wet, completely exterminated them with-
out injury to the plant. The other pests which
attack Orchidaceous plants are yellow-fly, green-fly,
black-thrip, white and brown scale, and mealy-bug.
For all these we prefer washing the parts affected
with a sponge, using a mixture of soft-soap and
tobacco-water, to applying any violent remedy,

eae ae

which may perchance prove more detrimental: than j |

ORCHIDS. 21

the disease. In the case of slugs or snails, these
oftentimes get brought in with the Sphagnum Moss.
This is frequently the case with the little Onion-
snail (Zonites allairia). These must be watched for
at night after dark, traps of Lettuce-leaves, sliced
Turnips, Potatoes, and such-like things being also
laid about for them. The cock-roach (Blatta orien-
talis) is the great destroyer of the roots of Orchids.
There is, however, :
no reason why this
beetle should be
more plentiful
amongst these
plants than any
others, and if
almost any of the
numerous pastes,
which are offered
for sale to destroy
them, be used per-
sistently, the house
can easily and
speedily be cleared.

Acanthephip-
pium.—The name
signifies “ Spiny-
horse,” but how it
bears upon the
plants comprising
this genus we are
unable to say.
They are terrestrial
in habit and love
the shade, and
although not ap-
preciated by Or-
chidologists of the
first water, they
are sufficiently in-
teresting to deserve
@ place in the most
recherché collection.

As a genus, Acanthephippium is nearly allied to
Biletia, and is characterised by its short stout pseudo-
bulbs, and large broad-plaited leaves. The flower-
spikes seldom exceed the pseudo-bulbs in height,
but are very numerous. These bear from three to
seven or eight large, fleshy, ventricose flowers,
which are more or less bluntly spurred at the
base. They thrive best when planted in a some-
what closer soil than is usually considered suitable
for members of this order. Pot in rough peat,
leaf - mould, and loam. During the period of
growth water abundantly, but afterwards a good
season of rest will tend to the production of an

abundant supply of their curious flowers. East
Indian House.

A. bicolor.—Pseudo-bulbs ovate, leaves oblong-
lanceolate, ten to eighteen inches long, and two to
four inches broad, sharply tapering to a point at
both ends; flowers three to seven, yellow, streaked
and spotted with red near the mouth; petals
narrowly oblong, acute; middle lobe of lip bluntly
tongue-shaped, fur-
nished with three
fleshy, warty pro-
tuberances along
the centre; side
lobes obtuse, in-
curved. May and
June. Central Pro-
vinces of Ceylon.

A, pavanicum,—
This species is
easily distinguished
by its obtusely four-
angled pseudo-
bulbs. Flowers
three to six, yel-
low, stained and
spotted with pur-
ple; petals some-
what spathulate ;
middle lobe of lip
ornamented with
four fleshy plates
on the centre; side

lobes truncate.
April and May.
Java.

A. striatum. —
Pseudo-bulbs slen~
der; the flowers
bluntly spurred at
the base, white,
slightly streaked
with red; petals
oblong, acute ; the
middle lobe of lip small, fleshy, and acute, furnished
with numerous rough protuberances along the centre,
side lobes bluntly oblong. April and May. Nepaul.

A. sylhetense.—The flowers of this species are
creamy-white, streaked with purple inside; petals
oblong-lanceolate, acute; middle lobe of lip thick
and fleshy, tongue-shaped, ornamented on the centre
with three toothed protuberances; side lobes very
narrow. April and May. Sylhet, Sikkim, and
Khasia.

Acineta.—aA genus of singular and most in-
teresting epiphytal Orchids, originally included with

22 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Peristeria. The name comes from akineta, im-
movable, and refers to the lip, which is jointless.

Acinetas are characterised by their angular
pyriform pseudo-bulbs, from the summit of which
are produced two or three large, erect, membranous-
plaited, dark green leaves. ‘The racemes spring
from the base of the pseudo-bulbs, and grow straight
downwards, bearing numerous globose, thick, and
fleshy flowers. The lip is three-lobed, united to the
column, and furnished with a peculiar fleshy process
in the shape of a spur or horn.

The whole of the species are found in the dense
forests of Tropical America, chiefly in deep and
dark ravines. Cultivators may, therefore, learn
from this that these plants delight in shade, and
should not be so placed as to receive the full in-
fluence of the sun.

These plants are extremely ornamental when
in bloom, but from their peculiar habit of flowering,
it is absolutely necessary to grow them in open
baskets suspended from the roof. These baskets
should be filled with rough peat fibre and Sphag-
num. Some pieces of charcoal mixed with this will
be found most advantageous, for although Acinetas
require an abundant supply of water during the
growing season, the compost should be sufficiently
open to allow it to pass away freely. After growth
is completed, a moderate season of rest should be
given by withholding the water supply, but this
must not be carried to such an extent as to shrivel
the pseudo-bulbs, or the plants may be permanently
injured in health. Brazilian House.

A. Barkerii.—Pseudo-bulbs large, deeply furrowed;
leaves one to two feet high, racemes bearing numerous
sub-globose, waxy flowers; sepals and petals rich
orange-yellow ; lip deeply three-lobed, full orange,
spotted with crimson. May to July. Xalapa.

A. chrysantha.—Pseudo-bulbs ovate, furrowed,
bearing large, plaited, dark green leaves. The
pendulous racemes are somewhat laxly set, with
rich golden-yellow flowers; lip white, furnished
with a curious blunt spur-like process; column
crimson. May to July. Mexico.

A. Humboldtii.—This is the Anguloa superba of
Humboldt. Like the preceding, the leaves are large
and plaited. The racemes are some two feet long,

and densely crowded with thick, fleshy, globose .

flowers; sepals bright purplish-chocolate, spotted
and blotched with purplish-crimson ; petals deep
claret-colour, spotted like the sepals; lip yellow,
column winged. Apriland May. La Guayra.

A. Humboldtii, var. fulua.—This variety produces
flowers of a tawny-yellow, spotted with purplish-
brown ; lip bright yellow. May to July. Central
America.

A, Humbohitii, var. straminea.— Flowers light

yellow or straw-coloured, sparingly spotted in the
interior with purplish-brown. June and July. New
Grenada.

Acropera.—A small genus of curious epiphytal
plants, having much the habit of growth of
Maxillaria, now merged into Gongora. The name
is derived from akros, the end, and pera, a pouch,
from the curious pouch-like terminations of the
labellum.

Acroperas are not very showy, but their singular
flowers are very charming, and will well repay any
space which may be devoted to them, more especially
as one species bears the name of such a great
enthusiast in all relating to plants and plant-lore
as the late Mr. George Loddiges, proprietor of the
once famous nursery at Hackney.

These plants produce pendulous racemes of flowers
from the base of the pseudo-bulbs, which hang
round them in dense clusters. They may be grown
equally well in pots or baskets, but in either case
the base of the pseudo-bulbs should be well elevated
above the soil, which should be rough fibrous peat
and Sphagnum Moss. Mexican House.

A. armeniaca. — Pseudo-bulbs ovate, obtusely
furrowed, bearing two broad, plaited, dark green
leaves, some ten inches in length; racemes pendulous,
as long or longer than the leaves, many-flowered ;
sepals and petals clear apricot-yellow, dotted with
reddish-brown. May to July. Nicaragua.

A, Loddigesii.—In habit this species resembles the
preceding, but it is not so large a grower, and the
pendulous racemes do not bear so many flowers;
sepals and petals brownish-yellow; lip reddish-
brown. May to July. Xalapa.

Ada.—As a genus, this 1s characterised by the
sepals spreading at their apices only, nearly equal
acuminate, the lateral ones somewhat oblique at the
base; petals similar, but smaller; lip elongate,
undivided, parallel with and adnate to the base of
the column, crested with two membranous plates,
which are afterwards confluent; column wing-
less. One species only has hitherto been intro-
duced of this genus. It should be potted in peat
and Sphagnum Moss in about equal parts; drain well,
and water freely during the summer months, and
even in winter it must be supplied in moderation,
and never be allowed to suffer from drought.

A. aurantiaca—An epiphyte with the habit of
Brassia. The pseudo-bulbs are narrow, nearly
cylindrical, about four inches long, and bearing
one to three leaves, which are about six inches
long and sheathing at the base; racemes terminal,
drooping, nearly twice as long as the leaves; flowers
somewhat two-ranked, bright reddish-orange colour,

ORCHIDS. 23

and about an inch long. It thrives well with Odonto-
glossums and Masdevallias, Winter and early spring
months.

It is a native of the province of Pamplona, in
New Grenada, growing in the mountains at an
elevation of 8,500 feet. Peruvian House.

Aerides.—From aer, the air, in reference to the
epiphytal habit of the plants. They are epiphytes
with mostly simple rooting stems, and two-ranked or
distichous, coriaceous, somewhat fleshy leaves, and
long racemes of showy flowers; sepals spreading,
the lateral ones oblique at the base, and connate
with the prolonged foot of the column; lip con-
tinuous with the column, spurred and three-lobed ;
column recumbent on the ovary, short, wingless ;
pollen masses two, obliquely two-lobed behind.

This genus contains very many of the finest
members of the order, their symmetrical growth
rendering them extremely ornamental, even when
not in flower. They are all natives of the tropics of
the Old World, and thrive well under cultivation
either in pots or baskets. For the smaller-growing
Kinds blocks of wood may be used, but extra care is
required to keep the atmosphere sufficiently moist
when this system is adopted.

The wooden baskets formerly used for the recep-
tion of plants of this order have now to a great
extent lost favour, on account of the rapidity. of
their decay. Consequently, perforated pots and
pans are now more common. These should be well
drained with charcoal, and the plants secured in posi-
tion with sweet and living Sphagnum. During the
growing season supply abundantly with water,
both to the roots and overhead with the syringe
in the form of falling spray, and not with all the
force possible to use, as is too frequently the case.

When the season’s growth is complete, do not
withhold water entirely. It is quite necessary to
Keep the atmosphere much drier during winter, but
the object being to maintain the plants in as fine a
condition as possible, the resting system must be
carried out in a careful manner. Aerides are some-
times dried up in the winter until their leaves
shrivel. This will cause many of them to fall off,
and the plant is permanently disfigured and reduced
in value. It behoves the cultivator, therefore, to
watch carefully, and never allow shrivelling. Our
experience goes to prove that lowering the tem-
perature a few degrees is of greater benefit to the
plants than a severe drying, and equally efficacious
in producing flowers.

The blooms of Aerides will last many weeks in
perfection with ordinary care. By this we mean
that water must on no account be allowed to touch
them, but it should not be entirely withheld from

the plant. When the plants are in bloom, they
should be removed to a rather cooler and drier
atmosphere than that of the growing-house.

Aerides are sometimes infested with a small scale.
When these appear, carefully remove them with a
sponge and soft-soap and warm water. The red-
thrip sometimes attacks them in the heart of the
young growth, and if neglected, will soon disfigure
them. This, however, may soon be exterminated by
dusting with tobacco-powder. East Indian House.

A, afine.—This is a very elegant species. Leaves
truncate at the apex, sometimes toothed, about a
foot long, and bright green; racemes somewhat
stiff, many-flowered, dense ; flowers pink and white,
spotted with rose; sepals and petals about equal,
rcunded at the apex ; lip rhomboid, acute, and some-
what three-lobed; spur short and conical. There
are numerous varieties of this species, which are
more or less strongly marked, and in some the
racemes are much branched. May and June. Sylhet
and Nepaul.

A. affine, var. roseum.—An exceedingly fine form of
the species; it is more robust in habit of growth,
and produces a very long, much-branched, and dense
raceme; flowers deep rose, profusely spotted with
purple. May and June. Sylhet.

A. crispum.—A charming species; the leaves are
flat, broad, oblique, and obtusely two-lobed at the
apex, about five inches long and very deep green,
the sheathing base being purplish-black; racemes
erect, many-flowered, nine to twelve inches long ;
flowers very large, one to two inches in diameter,
waxy-white, tinged with rose; lip purplish-rose ;
upper sepal and petals equal, ovate, acute, lateral
sepals larger and blunt-pointed; lip ovate; lateral
lobes small and erect; middle lobe large, notched in
front, having two teeth at the base and an incurved
spur. May and June. Bombay.

A. crassifolium.— A very fine and still rare
species ; the leaves are set very close, thick and
fieshy, about eight inches long, and bluntly two-
lobed at the apex; raceme twice as hong as the
leaves, many-flowered; flowers large, white and
rich purplish-rose. As a species it is allied to A.
faleatum, but differs from that plant in having a
bent spur to the lip, the side lobes of which are
much larger. May and June. Moulmein.

A. faleatum.—Although an old inhabitant of our
gardens, this species is still far from plentiful. The
leaves are coriaceous, obtuse, and mucronate at the
apex, some ten inches in length, and deep green,
with a peculiar bloom upon the surface; racemes
pendulous, many-flowered, dense; sepals and petals
white, speckled with crimson at the points; lip
crimson in the middle, and white barred with rose at
the edge; lateral lobes of lip falcate; middle one

24, CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

obovate, fringed at the edge ; spur short and straight.
This species first flowered in England in the collec-
tion of Lady Larpent, and was named provisionally
A, Larpente, by which name it is even now best
Imown in gardens. June. East Indies.

A. Fieldingii.—A robust, bold-growing, and hand-
some species, bearing long and densely-flowered
racemes, which has suggested the name of “the
Fox-brush Aerides.” Leaves leathery, drooping,
broadly lorate, and obliquély two-lobed at the apex,
some eight to ten inches long, and deep green;
racemes one to three feet in length, in some instances
simple, in others much branched; flowers dense,
large, and rich bright-rose colour ; sepals and petals
oblong, obtuse; lip flat, ovate, and tapering to a
point, Juneand July. Upper Assam.

A. Lindleyanun.—This is frequently called a
variety of A. crispwm, but it differs somewhat in the
form of the flower. It is a bold-growing plant, pro-
ducing a large branched pannicle of bloom ; leaves
very stout, oblique, and obtusely two-lobed at apex ;
flowers very large; sepals and petals white, obtuse ;
lip ovate, acute, serrated in front, plicate, with acute
fleshy auricles at the base, and a pair of large fleshy
incurved tubercles between them; spur short, in-
curved. May and June. Neilgherry Mountains.

A. Lobbii.—A beautiful free-flowering species;
leaves distichous, ligulate, obliquely bi-lobed at the
apex, broad, thick, and fleshy, about one foot long
and light green; raceme cylindrical, dense, pen-
dant, longer than the leaves, and much branched ;
sepals nearly equal, with a rounded or somewhat
spathulate apex; petals narrower, spathulate, in-
eurved, and, as well as the sepals, bright rose,
slightly spotted with violet, white towards the base;
lip bright rose, tinged with deep violet, with a streak
of white along the centre: spur curved and some-
what compressed. May and June. Moulmein.

A. maculosum.—A somewhat stiff and compact
plant ; the leaves are oblique and obtuse at the apex,
eight to ten inches long, and dark green; racemes
drooping, generally slightly branched; flowers
large; sepals and petals obtuse, pale rose, much
spotted with bright purple; lip ovate, obtuse, flat,
and undivided, with a sharp tooth on each side at
the base, and an undivided tubercle between them ;
the colour is deep rich rosy-purple, lighter at the
edges. June and July. Bombay.

A, nobile.—A rare and handsome kind, nearly re-
lated to A. suavissimum, but still differing from it in
many essential points; leaves arcuate, strap-shaped,
obliquely emarginate at the apex, with a small tooth
between the lobes, bright green above, paler be-
neath; flowers very fragrant; racemes two to three
feet in length, and branched, many-flowered, and
pendant; sepals and petals oblong, obtuse, spread-

ing, white, stained with rose at the base, becoming
paler towards the tips; lip three-lobed, the front
pressed against the column ; side lobes large, some-
what oblong, dentate at the tips, and creamy-yellow ;
middle lobe tongue-shaped, slightly bifid, white
dotted with rosy-purple; spur incurved, yellow,
dotted with red. June and July. Indian Archi-
pelago.

A. odoratum.—This species is sometimes found
under the name of A. cornutum, and though now a
common plant in collections, it is one of the most
beautiful and fragrant. There are numerous
varieties of this species, of which 4. odoratwm majus,
A. odoratum longiracemosum, and A. odoratum purpu-
rascens are the most distinct and best. The normal
plant has flaccid, oblique leaves, which are obtuse
and mucronate at the apex, coriaceous in texture, and
dark green; racemes pendulous, dense, many-
flowered, usually longer than the leaves; flowers
waxy and very fragrant; sepals and petals fleshy,
somewhat ovate, creamy-white, tipped with pink;
lip cucullate, funnel-shaped ; lateral lobes erect,
cuneate; middle lobe ovate, acute, and inflexed,
same colour as the sepals; spur conical, incurved.
May to July. East Indies. Widely distributed.

A. quinquevulnerum.—A. splendid species, but of
very slow growth and stiff habit; the leaves are
strap-shaped, obliquely notched at the apex, with a
small point between the lobes, tightly clasping the
stem at the base, about twelve inches long, and
bright shining green; racemes longer than the
leaves, pendulous, many-flowered; flowers large,
dense, yielding a delicious fragrance; sepals and
petals nearly equal, rounded, white, speckled with
crimson and stained with purple at the tips; lip
cucullate, funnel-shaped; lateral lobes erect, middle
lobe oblong, incurved, and denticulate, same colour
as the sepals; spur conical, incurved, green. July
and August. Philippine Islands.

A. quinquevulnerum, var. Farmerii.—This ig an
extremely rare variety, differing from the type in
having pure white flowers. July and August.
Philippine Islands.

A. roseum is a beautiful but slow - growing
species. It does not root freely, and thrives best
when grown upon a block of wood and suspended ;
leaves coriaceous, channelled, and recurved, ten to
twelve inches long, and bluntly two-lobed at the
apex; racemes pendulous, dense, twelve to fifteen
inches long; sepals and petals acute, the latter
longer and narrowed at the base, pale rose, with
darker spots; lip flat, rhomboid, acuminate, entire,
deep rose, freckled with spots of a darker hue; spur
short, conical, and incurved. June and July. Moul-
mein, Sylhet, and Assam.

_ 4. roseum, var. superbum.-—~A much stronger

QRCHIDS. 25

and more robust-growing plant than the type;
racemes very long and dense, and the flowers are

much larger, colour deep rich rose, profusely spotted. .

June and July. Upper India.

A. Schréederi.—This is one of the most beautiful
and, at the same time, one of the rarest of the whole
genus. By some authorities it is considered a hybrid
between 4. maculosum and .4. crispum, and by others
as a variety only of
maculosum. It, how-
ever, is very dis-
tinct in its growth,
and exhibits con-
siderable differences
in the structure
of the flower from
either of the species
it is supposed to be
related to. It would
appear to be very
rare in its native
country, one plant
only having been
brought to England.
Leaves ligulate,
obtuse, obliquely
emarginate at the
apex, about ten
inches long, and
intense deep green;
racemes erect or arch-
ing, much branched,
and nearly two feet
in length; sepals
and petals nearly
equal, obovate and
obtuse, spreading,
white tinged with
‘lilac, and profusely
spotted with lilac-
tose; lip triangular-
rhomboid; lateral
lobes small, middle
lobe large, flat, the sides deflexed, pale lilac, with a
stain of deep rose along the centre, furnished with
two small incurved teeth at the base, the intervening
tubercle bifid ; spur incurved, yellowish-green. June
and July. Bombay.

A, suavissimum.—aA species of which many beau-
tiful varieties exist, the most noteworthy being
pallidum and latum, from Malacca, and auran-
tiacwm, from Borneo. In the typical plant the
leaves are flaccid, nine to ten inches long, light
green, profusely dotted with brown near the sheath-
ing base ; racemes horizontal, oblong, many-flowered,
sometimes branched, loose; flowers very fragrant;

AERIDES ODORATUM.

sepals and petals oval, obtuse, very much spreading,
white or bluish, tipped with rose; lip three-lobed,

‘pressed to the column; lateral lobes oblong, slightly

toothed ; middle lobe dwarf, linear, bifid, not at all
serrated, pale lemon-colour ; spur pale yellow, tipped
with red. July to September. Malacca.

A. Thibautianum.— When first this beautiful
species flowered, it passed under the name of A.

= uttoni, and was
hyo rel afterwards figured as
| \TSpSaccolabinm Huttoni ;
jb LA OTIS :
i upon better acquaint-
ance, however, it was
found to be a species
already named and
described. It much
resembles A. guin-
quevulnerum in habit
of growth; leaves six
to eight inches long,
unequally two-lobed
at the apex, and full
deep green; racemes
pendulous, slender,
longer than the
leaves, and many-
flowered; flowers
large, erect, very
fragrant, and soft
deep amethyst in
colour. August and
September. Java.

A, virens. — There
are many varieties
of this fine species,
and all are beautiful ;
amongst them may
be noticed Dayii,
Ellisii, grandiflorun,
superbum, and guin-
quevulnerum. The
typical plant has
broad oblique leaves,
lobed at the apex, eight to ten inches long, and very
bright green; racemes longer than the leaves, droop-

ing, many-flowered; flowers very fragrant; sepals

and petals ovate, obtuse, soft, white, stained with
rosy-purple at the points; lip three-lobed; side lobes
white, dotted with crimson; middle lobe broad,
crimson. April to July. Java.

A, Warnerii belongs to the crispum section,
but is a thoroughly distinct-looking plant. The
stem is slender and the short coriaceous leaves are
ascending and dark green, almost black towards the
base, where they clasp the stem; racemes erect,
twice as long as the leaves; flowers large and frae

26 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

grant; sepals and petals white; lip large, soft rich
rose-colour. June and July. Bombay.

A, Wightianum.—A very beautiful small-growing
plant, sometimes called .4. testacewm, and also Vanda
parviflora ; leaves strap-shaped, oblique, and obtusely
two-lobed at the apex, with a tooth between the
lobes ; racemes straight, erect, longer than’ the leaves,
simple, few-flowered ; flowers fragrant; sepals and
petals oval, lateral sepals largest, soft apricot-yellow;
lip funnel-shaped ; lateral lobes obtuse, adnate to the
foot of the column; middle lobe subcuneate, rounded,
and two-lobed at the apex, deep violet, dotted with
lilac, the disk crested with several elevated, lines;
spur short, incurved, obtuse. May and June. Neil-
gherries and Ceylon.

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.

By D. T. Fisn, assistep BY WILLIAM CARMICHAEL.

| gees being such an important article of food,

as well as a universally appreciated luxury,
one might naturally expect to find fruit gardens
pure and simple as common as vegetable or flower
gardens; and yet the fact is very much otherwise.
Fruit gardens are comparatively rare, whilst those
devoted to flower and vegetable culture are so com-
mon as to be looked upon as the necessary adjuncts
to our advanced state of culture and of civilisation.
And they are. Any retrogression in the growth of
vegetables or the culture of flowers would indeed be
a step backwards towards barbarism. But without
growing fewer of either, it would be quite possible in
most gardens to grow more and finer fruit. And
one of the first steps towards this, in not a few places,
would be the setting aside of a certain area expressly
for this purpose. So long as fruit-growing is tacked
on, as it were, to vegetable culture as a mere embel-
lishment to the culinary department, so long will it
hold a secondary place in the care, thought, and
skill of the cultivator.

Fruit is so important for food, pleasure, health,
that it is worthy of the best place that nature and
art combined can provide for it. Its consumption
is increasing day by day, and were railway rates
lower, and the means of distribution more simple,
rapid and efficient, there is literally no limit to the
fruit that would be consumed by the workmen in
mines, factories, mills, and workshops.

Under present circumstances the consumption is
3o irregular and irrational that it often does more
harm than good. Thirsty men, tired women, and
fruit-famished children, that may hardly have had
a taste of fruit for months, have suddenly a cheap
lot of inferior quality brought within their reach.

They naturally eat to excess, suffer from their im-
prudence, and lay the blame on the fruit. But were
more and better fruit eaten as food, fewer pills and
digestive-aiding mixtures would be swallowed. A
Manchester merchant, who used to be a martyr to
indigestion, took to dining upon any fruit that
might be in season; Cherries, Strawberries, Goose-
berries, Currants, Plums, Apples, Pears—nothing
came amiss to him. The one fruit meal a day cured
his chronic indigestion, and he waxed fat, worked
hard, and continued strong on his fruit mid-day
meal. A quart of Cherries disappeared before him
like snow in summer, but then he ate nothing with
them but a slice of dry bread or a stale roll. His
maxim was, bread agreed with fruit, but hardly any-
thing else did, and hence his never mingling savouries
with his fruits.

The cry of fruit for food has scarcely yet arisen
amongst us, and the suggestion that Apples and
other fruit are in a special sense food for the brain,
has hardly as yet gone further than a philosophical
speculation. Only a little over one hundred and
fifty thousand acres are under fruit-culture in
Great Britain, True, the area is extending, but
very slowly, and what are those few acres to
supply the fruit-wants of over thirty millions of
men, women, and children? It is true that here and
there bold and successful attempts are being made to
enlarge fruit gardens, or to expand them into farms
ranging in extent from fifty to five hundred acres ;
put these are rare exceptions; and it is as true
now as it was fifty years ago that a large pro-
portion of our fruit supplies reach us from abroad.
At home one of the most cheering signs of the
times is the bold enterprise initiated by Lord Sudeley,
at Toddington, in Gloucestershire. He has recently
planted five hundred acres of land with nearly half a
million of fruit-trees and bushes. So far the pro-
spects of this gigantic fruit garden are cheering, and
the area is about to be extended. As big things are
infectious, no doubt this example will have many
imitators on a smaller, and possibly a few on a yet .
larger scale. Such enterprises will be fostered by
Mr. Gladstone’s suggestion to try jam-growing as
one means of mitigating the present agricultural
distress. As it is now said that the profits of wheat-
growing are wil to the British farmer, it is surely
worth while to try fruit, that realises a profit varying
from ten to a hundred pounds per acre per annum.

Useful, however, in a national point of view, and
profitable as these gigantic fruit gardens or farms
may prove to their proprictors, the increase of fruit-
culture among all classes of gardeners would have a
far greater effect in increasing our home supplies.
If those who never grew any fruit would only grow
one Apple, Plum, Pear, or Cherry tree, and those

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 23

who grow one would grow five or ten, then might
our home supplies prove sufficient, or at least bring

an abundant supply of wholesome fruit within reach
of all.

The Choice of a Site.—Very much of success
or failure turns on this. The altitude and aspect
should first be considered. It should neither be too
high nor too low, on the crown of a hill or the
bottom of a valley. If the former the trees will
suffer from exposure, the fruit will be blown down—
the trees bent or broken with the winds. If the
latter, the trees will suffer from excess of heat as
well as cold. It will be almost too hot for some of
the hardier fruits in summer, and so cold on bright
clear nights in the spring, as to wreck the crops by
frosts. About half-way up a gently-rolling hill is
perhaps the best. possible site for a fruit garden, so
far as the altitude is concerned.

Now, as to aspects : south and west are undoubtedly
the best. But these may be extended to include a
few points of east at one end of the scale, and of
north at the other, in warm localities. In colder
places it is safer to avoid these extensions, and choose
southern and western aspects, pure and simple.

These may seem small matters, but it is upon a
series of such that success in fruit-growing, and indeed
most of the operations in horticulture, depends. The
difference in temperature in different sites within a
few hundred yards of each other often amounts to
five or even ten degrees, and fruit crops are saved
or ruined within a far narrower range than that in-
volved in such variations of temperature. Besides,
other influences work against the trees in valleys.
There moisture accumulates, and though the moisture
of the world is on the whole one of the most efficient
preservers of its caloric, yet its accumulation in
valleys intensifies the destructive energy of the frost
to blight and destroy the blossoming fruit-trees in
the early spring. The testimony of experience is
uniform on this point. Fruit gardens in the trough
of valleys are constantly blighted or blasted, while
those on rolling grounds or hills escape. Simul-
taneously with these facts, the readings of ther-
mometers in valleys constantly reveal a depression of
temperature of several degrees, varying with their
depth, from three to even ten degrees between that
of higher ground in the immediate neighbourhood.

Other causes work towards the, destruction of
fruit-tree blossoms in the troughs of valleys. Among
these the stillness of the air is the most potent. It
is this stillness that gives such destructive force to
the energy of radiation on clear nights, so that the
-whole atmosphere from bank to sky is converted
into a plant-cooler of most destructive energy. On
rising ground or undulated positions the air moves,

and in its shifting the trees find their safety. Its
mere motion baulks the energy of radiation; the
heat of the plants is thus preserved, the blossoms
escape destruction, and a crop is insured.

The opposite extreme, however, must be avoided,
and no one in his senses would attempt to post a
fruit garden or orchard in the teeth of the wind.
In that, the heat lost by the rude entrance of every
wind that blows would far exceed any that might be
husbanded and conserved by modifying the energy
of radiation, through the gentle and constant motion
of the air.

Necessity of Shelter.—An elevated site for
the fruit garden does not necessarily mean an unduly
exposed one, and the more elevated the site the
greater the need of shelter, natural or artificial.
There is no shelter so efficient as that of a hill or
mountain, rising up to some considerable elevation
above the highest point of the fruit garden. If such
barriers are so disposed as tv shut out the north and
east winds, little more can be desired. Extended
slightly in both directions to exclude north-east and
north-west winds, the shelter would be perfect,
especially if the hills were clothed with trees as well.
For barren mountains have a trick of rolling down
the cold air from their summits in mighty waves of
irresistible depression, that chill, perhaps destroy,
fruit trees or anything else that may lie in their
course. And just as sand is the best barrier to the
waves of the ocean, so trees and shrubs form the
most powerful shelter against the inroads of cold into
our fruit garden,

Fortunately, too, for cultivators, though but few
can commend uprising hills as barriers to the cut-
ting blasts of the north and east winds, nor the
sunny sides of the same as the most perfect sites for
fruit gardens, yet all may raise up a barrier of living
trees, fringed with lower shrubs, against such mis-
chievous and destructive visitants as the north and
east winds.

Shelter without shadow must, however, be the rule
in all such matters as planting trees for shelter.
The higher and thicker the shelter needed, the
further it must be removed from the fruit garden.
No vigorous-growing trees should approach nearer to
fruit trees than from twenty to fifty feet.

Two dangers have to be guarded against with ree
gard to such—the shade of the top, and the stealing
of the food of the fruit-trees by the roots of the
sheltering ones. Possibly the latter evil is the
greater and more dangerous, for wherever there is a ;
good larder fairly filled with good things, the roots
of wilding trees will be sure to find it, and to use it
up with alarming rapidity. Nature in this respect
seems ever struggling to establish her dominion over

28 CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING.

art, and hence the wildings of the shelter seem ever
bent on starving out the fruit-trees so soon as they
get a footing in the richer larder of the fruit garden.
While any over-sheltering that has been exaggerated
into injurious shadow, at once becomes apparent,
and can be easily remedied, the roots of the shelter-
ing trees commit their robberies in the dark, and
their presence is often as unsuspected as mis-
.chievous.

The surest mode of avoiding this danger is to
keep the shelter sufficiently far off. Another mode
which also answers well--gives immediate shelter
and keeps the rambling, roving roots at home—con-
sists in throwing up earth-banks or mounds on the
cold sides of fruit gardens. This gives the eleva-
tion of several years to the shelter at starting; a
greater depth of soil for the roots, that fosters rapid
growth, and if tolerably rich soil is used, it will keep
them at home, instead of roaming all over the fruit
garden, seeking what fruit-tree food they may
devour.

Finally, in regard to shelters, evergreen or coni-
ferous trees or shrubs are to be preferred, not only
on account of their denser, thicker shelter when it is
most needed in the early spring, but likewise inas-
amouch as their roots remain nearer home. On no
account must Ash, nor Elms, nor Beeches be used ;
the first two especially will run any distance in
search of food, and starve out the roots of any other
sort of shrub or tree whatsoever.

Hedges for Shelter.—To avoid the possible
injuries from a tree shelter, hedges are often used;
and these are in some respects better, and if planted
or allowed to grow sufficiently thick and tall, are very
efficient. Beech, Hornbeam, Privet, Holly, Yew, and
Scotch or Silver Fir, kept cut so as to force them to
continue clothed to the bottom, are among the best
plants for such hedges. They should be planted in
the best possible soil and permitted to grow into
dense masses from a foot to a yard through, and
from six to ten, or even more, feet in height.
Such living barriers are almost wholly impene-
trable to cold winds, waves or currents of ice-like
air. Like the sand on the sea-shore, they yield
slightly. to the impact of the blow, but their very
yielding breaks its force, while the density of the
mass is so great, and the process of yielding to gain
new powers of resistance is repeated so often, that
little or none of the cold air escapes through to
the warmer side.

‘Walls for Shelter.—Walls are a necessity for
the better sort of fruit gardens. They enable the
cultivator to grow such fruits as Peaches, Nectarines,
Apricots, Grapes, in the open air, which the cha-

racter of our climate prevents him from growing
without them. Their heat-absorbing, cold-resisting
properties—to use popular terms—are so great as
to create and sustain an artificial climate in their
immediate vicinity far superior to the average of
that in which they are placed. The facility they
afford for the display of semi-skeleton trees over
their surface, also fully exposes each leaf, flower,
and branchlet to the full force of the sun, thus
accelerating and heightening growth, maturity, and
fertility.

But as mere shelters they are inferior to those
already described. For such purposes their very
strength becomes their weakness. They often
merely change the direction, rather than break the
torce, of waves of cold air. The mobility of the
movable screen furnished by a belt of stunted
trees or a thick hedge, holds fast, as it were, the
power of the wind, and sifts out or tones down its
force by its firm network of small twigs and leaves.

A Dry Bottom.—lIt is impossible to exaggerate
the vital necessity for this. (See article on Dratmace.)
It is not only essential to the health of the fruit
trees, but also to their fertility. Whether drainage
will be needed or not, can readily be tested in a very
simple manner. Dig out a space a convenient size,
from a yard to four feet deep; if the water stands
in for weeks or a month at a stretch, the land must
be drained, and the drains in a fruit garden should
not be less than four feet deep, as fruit-trees, like
most others, seem to have a mania for hunting for
and finding drains. Hardly are they found when the
roots revel along in them to such bad purpose as to
block them. Hence the need of deep drainage in
fruit gardens. However, there are large tracts of
country where drainage will not be needed, and the
open test-holes, as already suggested, will soon de-
termine the question of drains or no drains to the
satisfaction of the cultivator.

Suitable Soil—Almost any soil resting on a
dry bottom, having a favourable aspect, will grow,
or can be made by the aid of stimulants to
grow, fruit-trees in the open air. Hence, no
amateur, artisan, mechanic, or labourer need be
deterred from making the attempt to grow fruit
in any or all sorts of soils. The land that will
grow good Oaks will, with a little care, grow good
Apples, Pears, Cherries, or Plums, and almost any
kind of soil may be made to grow either. Even
sheer clay, with a liberal addition of cinder-ashes
and road-sand, and a bushel or two of cocoa-fibre
refuse to start the trees in, may be made to grow
tolerably good fruit; and mere sand, enriched with
house-slops, may be forced to do likewise. It is a

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 29

safe rule to look round before planting, and observe
what sorts of fruit thrive best in the neighbourhood.
We may save much time and expense and future dis-
appointment if such only or chiefly are planted.
Not only certain fruits, but even special varieties of
Apples, Pears, Cherries, Plums, thrive best in cer-
tain neighbourhoods. Thus guided by results, and
led aright by the irresistible logic of facts, it would
be impossible to go far astray.

While much of this is written that no one, how.
ever unfavourably placed, need despair of fruit-
growing, the writer would indeed be sorry to find
that such remarks about soil led any to suppose
that no special preparation need be made. For no
soil can possibly be too good for the fruit garden,
This is obvious on the face of it, for fruit-trees are
a permanent crop. Once planted, established, and
skilfully treated, they go on bearing for ten, twenty,
thirty, fifty, or more years at a stretch.

Hence the reasonableness and necessity of starting
with the best possible soil, and plenty of it. The
phrases are vague, and it is needful to be more
definite. For example, most readers will be more or
less well acquainted with at least two very distinct
varieties of good soil—viz., that found on old and
well-worn, cropped, manured kitchen gardens, in
which the tilth is rich and deep ; and that of old
meadow-land that has been under grass for scores of
years-it may be a century. Each of these two
widely-differing kinds of land is good, perhaps
equally good, in its way. The first is full to
overflowing of the elements of growth—a normal
mixture, to borrow a phrase from the water-culturist,
in which the plants can get enough and to spare of
all they need. The latter, through the annual
growth and decay of the grasses, and the residuum
of enrichment that each leaves to the soil, is also
rich in plant-food. Still no two soils, of probably
nearly equal growing strength, could well be more
unlike. The old kitchen garden soil is fine as an
ash-heap; the meadow is full of fibre, and yet so
tenacious as to bind all firmly together, lifting in
whole spadefuls, and retaining their form as if they
had been set in a mould.

And then these typical soils differ almost as much
in quality as appearance. Either is best for certain
purposes. For example, for the production of sweet,
crisp vegetables, or the rapid willow-like growth of
forest trees, the old kitchen garden earth would
beat the other, especially at starting. But for
forming a fruit garden, the soil of the old meadow is
infinitely to be preferred.

Such land is grass-land in a double sense. It not
only grows but is largely made from grass, and
notwithstanding all that has been written of the
potency of worms as surface soil makers, and the

science and practice of manuring, the growth and
decay of the grasses is, nevertheless, still the slow
and sure process by which most of our finest surface
tilths are formed. Nor only this, but soils so made
are by far the best for the growth of fruit-trees.
This was one of the discoveries made by the first
gardeners, and which is not likely to be superseded.
The craving of gardeners throughout all ages for
maiden loams, their use of them for all purposes at
all seasons, and especially their determination to
have them pure and simple, of the best quality, for
their fruit-trees, is one of the most striking instances
of uniformity of faith and practice to be found with«
in the wide domain of physics or of morals. In this
matter there is no dissent from orthodox opinions
among skilled horticulturists, whose cry ever is, and:
ever will be, for maiden loam, and more of it, for
most of their plants and all their fruit-trees.

Loams.— What is loam ? how and where shall we
get it? and how are we to distinguish between those
of different sorts? Leaving details for more special
treatment, the term ‘‘loam ”’ is used here in a general
sense, and is applied to the top spit of meadow or
pasture land, the older and the longer fed with sheep,
bullocks, and deer, the better. Pastures, however,
allowed to run up into hay, are spoilt as regards good
diggings of loam for horticulturists. The term loam.
in this wide sense necessarily includes soils of widely
differing localities and different qualities. Quality is
largely determined hy geological formation, original
soil and subsoil before being laid down to grass,
watershed, climate, and the length of time it has
been under pasturage without being broken up.
The longer it has been under grass the better; for the
growth and decay of the grasses, as we have already
seen, is the chief agent in the formation and growth
of good loam. For practical convenience, loams are
mostly classified’ thus: sandy, clayey, calcareous,
hazel, and mixed. The first are called light, the
second heavy, the third chalky, the fourth fibrous
loam. The fifth, which is composed of all the other
four, and many sub-varieties of each, is most appro-
priately designated mixed, and for many purposes it
is the best of all. All of these general classes of
loams have many varieties in nature, and are yet
more widely varied by the infinite mixings and
compoundings practised by horticulturists. But the
age of the latter is almost past, and there is a strong
tendency in modern horticulture to revert to more
simple soils for most cultural purposes.

Sandy loams may be described as those consisting
of from seventy to eighty per cent..of sand, with
from ten to twenty per cent. of clay, and very little
lime. Clayey loam contains about equal portions of
sand and clay, and from five to ten per cent. of lime.

37 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Calcareous loams have from eight to fifteen or
even twenty per cent. of lime, from forty to fifty of
clay, and the remainder made up of sand. Under
the head of hazel loams are included most of the
light loams, fibrous loams, containing over five per
cent. of humus or vegetable matter, and about equal
proportions of sand and clay, with little or no lime.
These descriptions are designedly brief, as the
subject will be freely treated in other articles; and
all that is intended here is to givea few hints
that may be useful as a guide in choosing the
best loams for fruit-culture. Sandy loams, as a rule,
are too light for fruit-growing, unless stiffened and
fortified by additions of clay or marl. Hazel loams

will grow good Apples, but are rather light, as well -

as rich, for most hardy fruits; they have a tendency
to force the trees into timber rather than fertility,
and fail to sustain the vigour and fruitfulness of
trees through a series of years. On the whole, what
are called clayey or calcareous loams are the best
all-round soils for fruit-culture. The first, how-
ever, must not have too much clay, nor the second
too much chalk, as either in excess is objection-
able. But a considerable moiety of both seems in-
dispensable to impart that stability, holding power,
and staying property of soil so needful to support
fruit-trees, and to establish and maintain their fer-
. tility. Hence the origin of the practice of mixing
marls, burnt earth, and strong loams with the lighter
ones for the culture of stone fruits.

THE PINE-APPLE.

By WILLIAM CoLeman.

INTRODUCTION.

/|\HE Pine (Ananas sativa), so named from its fruit

resembling the cone of the Pine-tree, was first
discovered by Europeans in Peru, and was by them
introduced into the West and afterwards into the
East Indies, where it has long been extensively
cultivated ; but the highest authorities are of opinion
that it is not indigenous to those countries. From
the West Indies it is probable that it was brought to
Holland, and was introduced into this country about
200 years ago by an ancestor of the noble house of
Portland, and has been more or less successfully
cultivated in the gardens of the wealthy down to the
present time. In the “Hortus Kewensis” the Pine is
said to have been introduced to that establishment in
1690, most likely as a botanical specimen ; and forty
years later numerous Pine-stoves were in exis-
tence in England and Scotland, where the plant was
grown for its fruit; but nothing is said of the size
or quality of the examples of those early days, con-

sequently it may be assumed that they fell far short
of those productions of which English gardeners are
now so justly proud. It was not, however, till after
the removal of the vexatious tariff on glass, and
the general introduction of hot-water pipes and im-
proved boilers, that Pine-cultivation became general
and profitable. When the enterprising growers for
market, who do everything well, took it in hand,
they very soon reversed the order of things by grow-
ing large fruits on small young plants, where for-
merly, under the old system of forcing in summer
and starving in winter, small fruits were produced
by large old ones.

After a time, spirited caterers for the increasing
demand sought a more genial climate for Pine-culture
in the Azores, whence steamers during the Orange
season regularly ply, laden with thousands of large,
perfectly fresh, well-swelled fruits of the smooth-
leaved Cayenne, but little inferior to the produce of
English Pine-stoves. This sudden change, which
took place about 1870-72, soon brought down the
price of the fruit; growers for market gave it up,
and its culture once more became confined to pri-
vate gardens, where the finest and best Pines in the
world are still grown. In many old establishments,
pits and houses not altegether well adapted are
frequently brought inte use; but as these are fast
giving way, it will be our endeavour to keep the
reader abreast of the times, by devoting a few words
to the selection of the site and the construction of
houses most suitable for the production of a constant
supply of good fruit throughout the year.

The Pine-ground and Pine-houses.—In
the selection of a situation for the erection of a set
of Pine-pits or houses, which will afford the greatest
facilities for high-class cultivation, the following
important points should be kept in view. The
ground should be well drained, slightly elevated,
and if possible sheltered from north and north-east
winds, provided such shelter can be obtained without
producing shade, or in any way interfering with full
exposure to sunshine and light.

When it is borne in mind that the Pine in all its
stages of growth rejoices in a tropical temperature,
and nothing so quickly reduces the heat in hot-
houses as exposure to high winds, it will at once be
seen that conditions, including shelter, which favour
the maintenance of a steady temperature, without
having recourse to hard firing, should have full and
careful consideration before building is commenced.
In its native habitat, as well as in the Azores, which
lie twenty degrees south of England, the Pine gets
an abundance of light, an important element in
keeping the plants dwarf and sturdy; while in this
country, during two-thirds of the year, the days are

THE PINE-APPLE, 31

dark and the atmosphere is dull. As, however, we
cannot change our climate, we must do our best to
counteract its enervating influence through the
winter months, by constructing our Pineries so as to
admit and diffuse as much light and sunshine as can
be obtained. During the summer months it is just
possible that the sun may be too powerful at times;
the roofs should therefore be provided with fixed
rollers, to which light blinds can be attached for
running down during the hottest part of the day,
when shade is absolutely necessary; but on no
account should systematic shading be resorted to.

Assuming that the north side of the Pine-ground
is enclosed by a wall, and a good lean-to house is
required for starting the plants into fruit in January
and February, as well as
for swelling off fruit in
winter and early spring,
Fig. 1. will be found an
economical structure, as
the substantial north wall
will afford great pro-
tection from cold cutting
draughts, and being near
the boiler, which can be
conveniently placed in a
covered stoke-hole on the
north side, the high tem-
perature which it will be
necessary to maintain
throughout those dead
months can be secured at
first hand. The size of the
house can be regulated by the demand for ripe
fruit, and as houses of this kind are as well adapted
to the culture of Cucumbers and Melons as of Pines,
it will be false economy to mar the proportions of
the structure by making it too small, when, by the
introduction of a division, two medium-sized houses
can be secured for two sets of plants to succeed each
other, in the order of starting and ripening off their
fruit. The width of the house may vary from
16 to 18 feet, and the length from 20 to 40 feet; but
for private growers two houses of 20 feet each will
be found more useful than one of 40 feet. Mr. Miles,
of Wycombe Abbey, the champion grower of Queen
Pines, has a set of three houses, similar to Fig. 2.
for successions and fruiters in their different stages
of growth. They are about 20 fect each in length,
with only one entrance at the west end; they are
abundantly supplied with hot-water pipes, and the
plunging-beds being thrown well up to the light, the
plants under his skilful management are at all times
a picture well worth looking upon.

For the summer growth of Queens, Cayennes, and
Rothschilds, preference is now generally given to the

VLU

chamber.

Fig. 1.—LEan-To-HOovse.

A, Plunging-bed ; 8, drainage ; cc, shelves for Straw-
berries; d, passage; oo, pipes; ee, hot-air

span-roofed house (Fig. 3), which should be placed
in front of the lean-to, with one end facing due
north, and the other south. It should not, however,
be placed so near or erected so high as to throw any
shade upon the lean-to in winter, when the sun does
not rise many degrees above the horizon, otherwise
the plants in the latter will become weak and what
is termed “drawn,” a condition from which no
future management can restore them. Ventilation
in such a house being liberally provided in the side
walls and at the apex, the roof may either be fixed
or composed of loose sashes running in rafters. The
fixed roof is most economical, and admits most light,
but the sash and rafter house also has its advantages,
and looks more imposing where the surroundings, in
a first-class garden, are
of the highest order. In
houses of this kind, while
enjoying all the light
that it is possible to
receive, the plants in the
morning and afternoon
have the full benefit of
the sun, and are partially
shaded from its scorching
influence during the hot-
test part of the day.
Moreover, when plunged
with their leaves nearly
touching the glass, with
an abundance of light on
every side, they soon as-
sume a stiff, sturdy, com-
pact growth, quite different to plants which we some-
times see with their elongated leaves struggling to
the light, and hardly capable of bearing their own
weight. From such plants, the sap being so highly
concentrated, it is scarcely necessary to say that
large fruit with small crowns are invariably pro-
duced; while the young stock raised from these
robust parents is infinitely superior to that grown
from plants which have not had these advantages.
From the foregoing it must not be inferred that
the span-roofed house is at every point superior to a
well-arranged lean-to ; for while the latter is warmer,
and receives quite as much sun through the winter
months, the span-roof with its larger radiating
surface of glass is more liable to sudden depressions
of temperature in our uncertain climate. To counter-
act these depressions it is always necessary to put in
an abundance of hot-water piping, while to avoid
over-heating and to economise fuel, every span-
roofed house should be fitted with rollers for
carrying light blinds in summer, and heavy non-
conducting material in winter. It will thus be
seen that each house has its advantages and

Wi

82° CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

disadvantages; and as every private garden has its
own peculiar belongings and requirements, this
part of the subject may now be dismissed for the
consideration of the arrangement of the best houses
and pits for feeding the fruiting department with
properly-prepared succession plants.

Succession houses need not be so large or so high
as fruiting houses; but light, as has already been
pointed out, being such an important element, the
greatest care should be observed in making arrange-
ments for its free admission to the plants, through
every stage from the sucker to the finish. For
general purposes there is nothing better than the
unequal span-roofed house running east and west
(Fig. 2) from twelve to fourteen feet in width, with
movable lights for the
convenience of plunging
the plants, and the in-
troduction of Oak-leaves
or tan for affording the
necessary bottom heat.
A passage runs along
the back, and hot-water
pipes are present in
sufficient quantity to
secure the requisite
degree of heat without
having recourse to hard
firing, which is objec-
tionable in forcing-
houses in general, and
pine houses in particular. .

In addition to the suc-
cession house, a pit, for
propagating or rooting suckers as they are detached
from the fruiting plants, is essential to the complete
arrangement of the Pine-ground. An ordinary
brick pit fitted with hot-water pipes answers very
well, and-is generally used for this purpose. It,
however, lacks the important convenience of a
passage along the back, by means of which the
plants can receive attention without exposing them
to the elements in bad weather. As the passage
(Fig. 4) need not be more than two feet in width, a
pit eight feet in the clear will give five feet of
plunging-space, which is quite sufficient for the
purpose, as a greater width would place the front
rows of plants beyond the reach of the attendant
when external conditions render the opening of the
lights objectionable if not injurious. In its erection,
the first consideration should be a pitch or angle
that will not only carry rain-water off the external
surface of the glass, but also condensed moisture
from the lower sides of the sash-bars. Many
successful Pine-growers have recommended very flat
roofs for Pine-pits; their reasons given being the

Fig. 2.—Hip-RooFeD Succession House.

4, Plunging-bed; 8, drainage; c, ventilator; «,
passage; oo, pipes; ¢e, hot-air chamber,

more even diffusion of heat and atmospueric
moisture ; but with modern appliances at command,;
it is easy to steer clear of drip, by erecting roofs at
an angle that will modify if they do not entirely
prevent this pernicious evil.

Next, as to the arrangement of the plunging-bed.
The surface should be kept so near the glass as to
admit of the plants being placed therein with the
points of their leaves almost touching it; and as all
Pine-growers admit the invigorating influence of
fermenting materials for rooting or growing them,
the depth should be sufficient to admit of the intro-
duction of at least two feet of Oak-leaves or tan
above the hot-air chamber. But as many existing
Pine-pits are not provided with hot-water pipes for
giving bottom heat, and
its steady maintenance
is so important, extra
depth should be allowed
for the plunging mate-
rial to produce the
desired effect indepen-
dently of the pipes.

The suckers from
winter fruiters, which
are usually taken off in
the spring, can be rooted
in a very short time, by
being plunged in Oak
leaves in an ordinary
garden frame of the old
MacPhail build: that
is to say, a frame with
hollow sides and ends,
hermetically closed at the top to keep in steam,
placed on a hot-bed at a temperature of 90°. In-
deed, in this way many good growers, who have to
contend with inconveniences, root all their suckers,
and transfer them to the hot-water pits later on.

Boilers.—The Pine being a plant which revels in
high temperature through all its stages of growth, a
few words as to the means of supplying fire-heat
may not be out of place. In large gardens, where the
Pinery forms only one section of the forcing depart-
ment, a set of boilers may do all the work from a
central stoke-hole, the different houses being heated
separately or together from mains conveniently
placed for that purpose. But assuming that the
Pine-ground is detached, then the most convenient
situation for the boiler would be at the back of the
fruiting lean-to (Fig. 1),. A main would be carried
direct to the span-roof, thence to the succession
houses, and last of all to the sucker or propagating
pit, As every professional gardener has his own
favourite boiler, it may be considered unnecessary or

-_

a Fs ee Pw Se

- 5s eS

= US

THE PINE-APPLE. 33

invidious to recommend any particular maker or
kind of boiler to those who are quite capable of
choosing for themselves. But for the benefit of
amateurs and others who are bewildered by the
endless variety now in commerce, it is only fair to
say that, aftermany years’ experience, the old saddle
boiler in its improved form—that is to say, welded,
not cast—with its terminal water-way end, still
stands unbeaten.

Equal in durability, and perhaps superior in
power where the work is very heavy is Stevens’
Trentham or improved Cornish boiler. This, too,
is made of wrought-iron, and, like the saddle boiler,
can be obtained in almost any size; but as it is bad
policy to trust all the eggs in one basket, so is it a
great mistake to trust the contents of a range of
hot-houses to one boiler, as the very best are liable

A, Plunging-bed ; 8, drainage; cc, ventilators; d, pase
sage ; 0 0, pipes; e e, hot-air chamber.

to accidents, and a break-down on a frosty. night
means the destruction of valuable property. To
provide against such mishaps, the prudent engineer
wiil put in two boilers of moderate size, to work
separately or together, in preference to having one
large boiler, which is not economical in fuel when a
minimum of heat is required in summer. In low,
wet situations, where floods or back-water cause
trouble, boilers which require deep stoke-holes should
be avoided: a powerful point in favour of the boilers
in question, as each of them requires only a very
shallow setting.

Next in importance is a liberal supply of hot-
water piping, for keeping up the proper degree of
heat, without forcing the boilers or overheating the
pipes in severe weather. It will therefore be wise
to put in as many pipes as will answer the purpose
without putting on high pressure, and so endanger-
ing the health of the plants by subjecting them to
a dry scorching atmosphere. Hot-water pipes four
inches in diameter are the best for horticultural
purposes, and they should be plentifully supplied
with evaporating troughs for giving off atmospheric

a7

moisture, either from pure water, clear liquid manure
or guano-water, when a stimulating vapour is con-
sidered necessary. The bottom heat pipes, as shown
in the sections, run parallel to each other in a con-
fined chamber, covered with slate for bearing the
weight of the plunging-bed. Some growers prefer
laying them in a bed of rough gravel, and so dis-
pensing with the hot-air chamber, while others lay
them in shallow brick troughs, which are lined with
cement, and by being kept full of water, form what
is termed the “tank” system of heating. Where
the pot system of growing Pines is strictly adhered
to, and tan or, better still, sound Oak-leaves are used
as a plunging medium, the tank system answers
very well. It is not, however, so well adapted for
giving the necessary bottom heat to Pines when
they are planted out in a bed of soil resting imme-

LL

Fig. 4.—PROPAvATING PIT.

a, Plunging-bed; 3, drainage ; cc, ventilators ; d, pas-
sage; 00, pipes; e é, hot-air chamber. ;

diately above the open tank, as the vapour which is
constantly rising in course of time produces a wet,
pasty condition in the lower part of the bed, quite
unfavourable to the roots, if it does not positively
kill them. If hot-water pipes alone are used, they
should be fitted with stop-valves for shutting off
and regulating the heat, and tanks require an inlet
and outlet tap for filling or emptying at pleasure.
In days gone by, the necessary bottom heat was
obtained from fermenting. materials alone, and
notwithstanding the fact that sudden fluctuations
and frequent renovation added considerably to the
expense of Pine-growing, it is still a question
whether the conditions produced by constant fer-
mentation and the decay of vegetable matter did
not meet the requirements of the plants in a manner
and to an extent which hot water alone cannot
supply. With these facts before me, it has long been
my practice to combine the two systems, by placing
the pipes in chambers, and using Oak-leaves as a
plunging medium.

Covering.—Economy combined with high pres-

34 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

sure being the order of the present day, the thoughtful
cultivator will endeavour to produce and preserve a
maximum of heat at a minimum cost. Double
glazing has been brought forward, but has never
been successful; indeed, it has proved baneful to
the plants placed under its coddling influence.
Blinds, on the other hand, attached to rollers for
running down at night and during severe storms,
form the best covering, as they can be drawn up when
not wanted, to give the plants the full benefit of
light and sunshine. Stout canvas or Frigi-domo
amswers very well, as the last isan excellent non-
conductor when properly fixed and judiciously used.
In the arrangement of blinds, either for shade in
summer or warmth in winter, the rollers should be
sheltered from wet under the ridge-capping, and a
thin stratum of air secured between the blinds and
the glass by running the former on laths raised a few
inches above the roof. Where winter-swelling or
ripening Pines have to be kept ina night tempera-
ture of 70°, with nothing but a thin sheet of glass
separating them from a bright starlit sky, the thin-
nest covering will be found of immense value in
reducing the necessity for hard firing, as well as for
preventing the loss of moisture, which must be
constantly used to counteract its drying influence.

Ventilation.—In its naturalised habitat, tie West
Indies, where the mean temperature ranges about
80°, and the plants are exposed to the open air, a
much higher degree of heat during bright sunshine
does no harm; but when tropical plants are confined
within the limits of a hot-house, the conditions are
very different; hence the importance of providing for
the constant admission of fresh air to prevent the
elongation and scorching of thé foliage when the
atmosphere is not properly charged with moisture,
as well as to allow of its escape at the apex after
they have absorbed a portion of the carbon which it
conveys. As a rule, Pine-growers are averse to a
draught even on the hottest days we experience in
these islands, and many never give front air at
all; but it is well to provide for so doing should it
prove necessary. It is therefore a good plan to have
ventilators fixed in the front wall immediately oppo-
site the hot-water pipes, for opening on very hot
days, when the shading is down, and the top venti-
lators are nearly closed to prevent the too rapid
escape of moisture.

Water-tanks.—The only other item to which
attention may be drawn in the arrangement of the
Pinery is the provision for watering and syringing
with pure soft water. In some places the ordinary
supply of water suits the plants very well; in others,
in proportion to its purity for domestic purposes, it

is useless or injurious to the roots of plants. There-
fore on no account should the formation of commo-
dious tanks for the reception of soft water from the
roofs of the houses, as well as any of the surrounding
buildings, be neglected. It is usual to make large
collecting tanks under the floors of the houses, but it
is perhaps better to have one large central tank in
the open air, whence smaller tanks or cisterns in
every house can be fed by means of pipes with ball-
taps attached. In course of time the water becomes
as warm as the mean temperature of the house, and
is then in the best possible condition for use. In
order to render the water arrangement as complete
as possible, a coil of piping supplied direct from one
of the boilers or mains through the tank is strongly
recommended. In some gardens the mains from the
boilers are made to pass through the soft-water tank;
indeed, within fifty yards of the room in which
these lines are now being penned such an arrange-
ment exists, where water for every purpose can
always be had at a temperature ranging from 80° to
100°. In forcing-gardens where there is a constant
demand for hot water, a few pounds laid out in this
way will be found a very profitable investment.

Soil.—With every other convenience for producing
good fruit at his disposal, the modern Pine-grower
will make but poor progress where the soil at his
command is unsuitable. If « strong healthy plant,
which has been grown in a pot, is examined, the
greatest quantity of active roots will be found coiling
round the extremity of the ball, and revelling in the
rough, lumpy pieces of turf placed over the crocks,
and even in the crocks themselves, where it is quite
impossible that water can gain a lodgment. If
amongst a set of vigorous plants one is found which
has gone wrong, the chances are ten to one that the
drainage has become impaired, or a drip from the
roof has saturated the soil, and the natural conclu-
sion is strengthened by two negative examples—that
a close heavy soil, through which water cannot pass
freely, or which becomes sour and pasty after it has
been watered a few times, is not the compost for
Pines.

All the highest theoretical and practical authoritics
agree in showing that soils havinga tendency to hold
water are strongly condemned, while friable, fibry, and
sandy loams, peat, and sandy peat are recommended.
Now, as these writers founded their theory on the
nature of the family to which the Pine belongs, and
the conditions under which it is found growing, and
all successful Pine-growers are proving every day
by their practice that this theory is correct, we have
satisfactory proof that a sweet fibrous loam which
does not readily decompose is the best that can he
used for plants in pots or turned out into open beds.

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 30

Tn its early stages a light, rich soil, abounding in
vegetable matter, with a fair proportion of sharp
road or river sand, may be used with advantage, as a
compost of this kind favours the formation of roots.
In its later stages decaying vegetable matter should
give way to rich fertilisers such as bone-dust, burnt
earth, or crushed charcoal, as being less liable to
get out of order when the fibre of the loam begins to
decay.

The staple of the compost in which my own Pines
are grown is a fibrous turf from the foot of a range
of hills of igneous formation. This is taken off
very thin, and stacked for a short time to kill the
herbage, a reserve being placed in an open shed in
September, to be ready for the general potting in
the spring. When the time arrives for making the
necessary preparations for spring potting, the sods
are chopped into squares with a spade; the fine
portion of the soil is rejected, and the foundation of
the compost is secured. As this particular turf does
not contain calcareous matter, old lime rubble or
plaster is broken up and sifted, and one barrowful of
the rough part is added to five of turf. An equal
quantity of rough charred refuse and two pecks of
bone-dust complete the compost, which is kept dry,
and made warm before it is used. Animal manures
are never used, as they only encourage worms and
facilitate the decay of the fibre of the turf; but a
liberal sprinkling of soot is placed over the crocks,
and clear liquid manure in a diluted form is used
when the plants require stimulating.

In a soil of this kind fresh white roots push
rapidly, and the broad sturdy foliage soon szows
that the plants are enjoying the provision that has
veen made for them.

In cold calcareous districts, where the soil soon
loses its fibre and becomes close and heavy,a dry
elevated knoll in an old sheep pasture, where those
animals spend the night, should be selected as being
the best for giving a supply of turf. This should be
taken off very thin, not more than an inch in
thickness, rolled up as if for turfing a lawn, and
stacked in narrow ridges, where it can be exposed
to the air and protected from wet. When required
for use it should be pulled to pieces with the hands,
the small portions being rejected. After it is
thoroughly dry and friable, add one-fifth of drift or
road sand in lieu of the lime rubble, the same
quantity of charred refuse also in a rough state, and
a liberal allowance of bone-dust. If at hand, a little
rough peat may be added. When potting, the
rough only should be used for the fruiting and
succession plants, and the finer will come in for
potting up suckers. From the foregoing the amateur
will learn that a light fibrous loam, free from all
animal excrement, which only hastens decomposition

and retards the free passage of water, and the
liberal use of such porous stimulating materials as
bones, charcoal, old plaster, and a little soot, are
considered the best ingredients for forming a
compost in which, all other conditions being favour-
able, the Pine will grow freely and swell off fine
fruit.

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS.

By Ricuarp Dran.

The Dahlia.—This has been for many years
past a favourite subject among Florists’ Flowers ;
and it is still largely grown, though not so exten-
sively as it was fifteen or twenty years ago. The
merit of first carefully attending to and cultivating
Dahlias belongs exclusively to the Continental
gardeners ; for although we received them almost as
soon as the French and Germans, yet, if not lost,
they had nearly gone out of notice with us, whilst
in France and Germany the varieties had increased
as much in numbers as in beauty, and persons fond
of gardening who visited the Continent on the
return of peace in 1814 were surprised with the
splendour and the number of varieties of the Dablia
in foreign collections. In the winter of that year
the roots of some of the finest Continental varieties
were imported to this country, and then began the
work of improvement of the Dahlia by English
cultivators and raisers, which has continued to this
day.

The original introduction of the Dahlia to this
country is ascribed to the Marchioness of Bute, who
brought the first species from Spain in 1789; but it
is stated that this plant was soon afterwards lost.
Other species also found their way here, and they
were bloomed in due course. The progress of the
Dahlia from a single toa large, full, and symmetrical
double flower commenced almost immediately on its
being introduced. Count Lelieur began to direct
his attention to Dahlias in 1808. He successfully
hybridised the few varieties he possessed, until he
obtained purples, dark reds, cherry-reds, buffs, and
pale yellows; and, by continued attention, the
seedlings raised under his care at St. Cloud made
rapid advance in perfection. He also succeeded in
raising some striped and shaded varieties, and these
are stated on the authority of The Florist to have
been the origin of what are now known as “ Fancy ”
Dahlias. In 1818 the English collections contained
several double varieties; and these, from their
superior beauty, form, and size, soon banished the
single sorts from our gardens. During the next
thirty years English Dahlias made such rapid strides
in the march of perfection and variety, that now

386 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

hardly anything else is desired in the way of sym-
metry, doubleness, and colour.

“There are now in cultivation five distinct classes of

' Dahlias: viz., Show, Fancy, Bedding, Bouquet, and
Single. These distinctions are somewhat arbitrary,
and it is difficult to define them in popular terms.
The Show varieties comprise all self-coloured flowers,
and those having dark-coloured tips. To the com-
position of a Fancy Dahlia, two or more distinct
colours are essential.
There are Fancy Dah-
lias, and striped Fancy
Dahlias: if the varie-
gation is in the form
of stripes or flakes,
whether the light or
the dark preponderate ;
if the variegation con-
sists in the edges or
tips of the florets
differing from the
general or ground
colour, then the relative
position of the colours
determines whether a
bloom is a fancy flower
or otherwise. Thus a
white, yellow, or any
pale variety, edged,
tipped, or laced with a
dark colour, after the
manner of the Picotee,
is denominated simply
an edged, tipped, or
laced Dahlia ; but when,
this disposition of
colours is reversed—
i.e, when the florets
of a dark flower are
tipped with a light
colour—the variety so
marked is termed a
tipped Fancy Dahlia.
But of late years Show and Fancy Dablias have
approximated so closely together, that it will soon
be difficult to set up an intelligible distinction
between them.

The Bedding Dahlias are dwarfed free branch-
ing varieties, flowering freely, and bearing their
flowers well above the foliage upon erect stems.
The Bouquet varieties are also known as Pompon
Dahlias: they have quite small and very double
flowers ; they are produced with wonderful freedom,
and last well when used in a cut state. Some are of
rather tall, some of quite dwarf growth. The Single
varieties being now so popular, are too well known

State Srripep Dawira (Union Jack).

to need description, and they are now a very
numerous group.

Culture of the Dahlia.—Propagation.—This
is almost entirely done by means of cuttings. The
Dahlia is a tuberous-rooted perennial, and when the
roots are lifted in autumn, the earth adhering to
them is cleaned off, and they are put away in a dry:
cool place out of the reach of frost for the winter.
In March the roots are
placed in an ordinary
hot-bed, or in a pro-
pagating frame, and
partly covered with
soil, and by means of a
brisk and moist bottom
heat cuttings are put
forth, and as soon as
they are three inches
or so in length, they
are iuken off with a
sharp Imife, placed in
cutting-pots filled with’
a fine light soil, and
plunged in a hot-bed.
Here they soon strike
root, and they are
then potted singly
into small pots, and
gradually hardened off,
and finally planted out
at the end of May or
beginning of June, ac-
cording to the weather.
Some persons who re-
quire but a small
number of plants divide
their roots, but pot each
divided piece so as to
encourage it to make a
good plant.

New varieties are
raised from seeds, but
it is a practice followed almost exclusively by those
whose particular business it is to raise and send out
new varieties. It-is not an easy matter to procure
good seed, and the method usually adopted is to re-
move all the blooms from a plant in the month
of September with the exception of those left to
mature seed. It is in the nature of the plant to
mature seed as soon as the growth and production
of bloom is checked. It is well to leave the flowers
on the plants as long as possible, but as soon as it
is unsafe to risk .danger from frost, they should be
cut off, each with a stem six or eight inches long,
tied up in bunches, half a dozen together, and hung

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 37

Freedom,

Sin@te Dawiias (STELLATE CHARACTER).

up in a green-house, putting on a little fire to dry
up any moisture that may be in the pod; in due
time the seeds must be rubbed out, put into bags and
cleaned at leisure ready for sowing in spring. In
March the seeds should be sown in pots, and put
into a cucumber frame, where they will freely
germinate ; then potted off, and grown on to put out
of doors early in June to flower.

The Dahlia is a gross feeder, and if fine flowers
are required the soil in which the plants are to grow
must be made very rich. The soil should be deeply
trenched and thrown up rough during the winter, or
as soon as it can conveniently be done. It is not
necessary to dig in manurethen. At planting-tims,
which should not be earlier than June, the ground
should be marked out for each plant, and they

38 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

should be at least four to six feet apart; three or
four spadefuls of soil should be taken out, and the
same quantity of rotten manure added, mixing it
thoroughly with the soil. Then planting should be
done, placing some fine soil about the roots, and
pressing the whole firmly aboutthem. At the time of
planting a centre stake should be placed against each
plant, and three short stakes at a triangle, about a
foot from it, as by tying the matting to the centre
stake, thence to the plant, and fastening to the
shorter stakes, it is made quite secure against harm
from winds. It is a great advantage to grow on the
plants in pots before planting out, giving them two
or three shifts if necessary, and so encouraging
them to root strongly.

During the month of July they should make
considerable progress, and if the cultivator desires
fine blooms, the principal things to attend to are to
keep the plants well watered, which should be
done at night with soft water, over the foliage, and
looking well after insects. Harwigs eat the young
foliage as well as the blooms of Dahlias, and the old
plan of placing a small flower-pot with a little moss
in it inverted on the principal stake is a good one,
as earwigs find a place of refuge in it, and can be
easily trapped. The surface of the soil between the
plants should also be raked over occasionally and
made loose. In August, those who want some
blooms of fine quality, thin out superfluous shoots,
doing it with judgment so that much foliage be not
cut off at atime. There is a great difference in the
varieties; some require to have all their wood and
buds reserved for some time; others require to have
a great deal of the wood cut away early. These are
matters of experience which cultivators of Dahlias
for exhibition purposes have to find out in the course
of their practice. Even in growing Dahlias for
ordinary border purposes some thinning out is
requisite, or the flowers will be small and unsatis-
factory. As the plants make growth it is necessary
to keep the branches securely tied to the stakes; and
during hot dry weather the plants will be greatly
benefited by having the soil about them slightly
loosened, and a mulching of short well-rotted manure
placed over it. A good soaking of water at the
roots should be given twice a week, and a little over
the foliage every night.

“Thinning out” and “disbudding” are terms
employed by cultivators of the Dahlia for show
purposes ; let us try and ascertain what they mean.
How many main branches mayremain? The larger
the flowers, the greater the number of branches
allowed to a plant. In the case of varieties pro-
ducing large and moderately-sized flowers, six
should be left ; in the case of those producing smaller
flowers, four only. Which of the shoots are to be

pinched off ? The centre of the plants should be kept
free and unencumbered; and therefore lateral growths
may be pinched off the shoots nearest to the main
stem; but seeing that leaves exercise an important
function in maintaining the health and vigour of the
plants, the leaf at the axil from which the shoot pro-
ceeds should be allowed to remain. The pinching
off of young shoots is to be preferred to the removal
at « later period of large stems, by which the plant
cannot fail to lose large quantities of sap, to the
manifest detriment of the coming flowers. And in
pinching out shoots those should be reserved that
help the formation of a well-proportioned plant,
These principles are general in their application,
which varies according to the characteristics of the
variety.

Then as to the “disbudding” of the clusters of
Dlossom-buds on various parts of the plant: which
are to remain, and which to be removed? Buds are
generally formed in groups of three; of these, the
one occupying the centre is earliest, and generally

. produces the largest bloom. Ordinarily, the two side

buds may be removed; the exception to this rule,
with regard to very uncertain varieties, is in the
case of a sort that produces flowers in plenty, but
few good ones. In these cases a little patience is
necessary to enable the cultivator to ascertain which
buds must, from their formation, produce faulty
flowers, and these should be removed as soon as their
true character is ascertained, but not until then. In
sorts producing large flowers the removal of the two
side buds can be done, except in the case of very free
bloomers; but in the case of varieties habitually
yielding small and compact blooms, especially where
buds are produced in enormous quantities, whole
clusters may be cleared away without remorse, and
only those single buds left which point outwards.

Writers on the cultivation of the Dahlia for ex-
hibition purposes are found recommending the free
use of stimulants, and especially liquid manure.
But they should not be applied until the plant has
nearly completed its growth, say three weeks or 4
month before flowers are wanted. The object in
applying this is to get large, full blooms. Manure-
water may then be applied twice a week, taking care
not to wet the foliage, and it is best applied in wet
weather. Though recommended by some, it is not
a good practice to put soot into water before using
it for watering overhead; only pure, clear water
should be so used.

The time for lifting the roots in the autumn must
depend upon the weather; if the tops are quite
destroyed by frost, the roots should be lifted on the
first dry day; but should the season be favourable
and there be no frost, two objects will be gained by
allowing them to remain in the ground for a time,

Base ee edt PF eR Be ess

-=

Bo

tt be

FLORISTS’

viz., more seeds, and a shorter winter to preserve
the roots in. One danger in storing Dahlia roots
has to be guarded against. It is the practice to cut
away the main stem to within six inches or a little
more of the root. This stem will be found to be
hollow, and it is apt to become filled with moisture,
which, if allowed to remain, is likely to cause rot to
set in. When wet appears the roots should be turned
upside down to allow the moisture to run out. ‘The
roots must be covered up securely during frosty
weather.

In the cases of the bouquet and the single Dahlias,
these being grown mainly for the flowers they
supply, the act of cutting constantly, operates in
much the same way as thinning and disbudding
does with the show varicties. But the plants should
be well cared for, mulching with manure about the
roots, and’ keeping them well watered, and tied
securely to stakes to prevent them from being blown
about by the wind.

The Cactus Dablias so called, of which the Mexican
D. Juarezii is the original type, are becoming very
popular, and appear likely to take the place of the
single varieties for cutting and general decorative
purposes. It must not be supposed all are seedlings of
D. Juarezit : indeed, it would appear that anything
of a semi-double character has been regarded as a
Cactus Dahlia ; but of late there is being introduced
a number of varieties of attractive appearance, that
are remarkably frée of bloom, and afford great quan-
tities of flowers. They need similar culture to the
single varieties. The best sorts are Empress of India,
crimson; Constance, white; Flambeau, scarlet; Lady
E. Dyke, yellow; Lady Marsham, bright salmon ;
and Mrs. Hawkins, sulphur-yellow. There is no
necessity for disbudding the Cactus Dahlias; cutting
the blooms answers the same purpose.

At present, perhaps, the greatest danger in the
cultivation of single Dahlias is that of getting them
too large, which seems to destroy the refinement of
the flower. The efforts of florists are therefore de-
voted to the perpetuation of a race of small or
moderate-sized compact flowers. These again differ
in their character in various ways. Some have
petals highly reflexed or curled back, while others
are flat; in some the petals fill up a disc, while in
others they are narrower, and give a more stellate
character to the blooms. There are also self-
coloured, “fancy,” and striped flowers. Some of
the choicer and smaller flowers are much sought for
cutting purposes. Our illustrations represent two of
Mr. Ware’s fine varieties, the striped variety being
a small flower, with petals white, beautifully edged
with scarlet.

Not a few lovers of the Dahlia prefer the pretty
bouquet or pompon varieties, with their compact,

FLOWERS. 39

symmetrical double flowers, to the single types,
because they are more durable in a cut state, and
produced with greater freedom. The single flowers
are much used in the way of decorating epergnes,
vases, &c., for table and house work; but they should
always be used sparingly, and especially such as are
of bright and striking colours.

The bouquet and single varieties are in some in-
stances tall growers, but their height can be reduced
by giving the stems a slight twist when the plants
are eighteen inches or so in height, which will cause
them to recline on the ground ; a peg should then
be placed to each plant to keep them in position,
and they will soon take on an upright growth,
bloom as freely, and be as effective as if they had
not been dwarfed in their proper stature.

The bedding varieties, being of dwarf growth,
very profuse of bloom, and having the habit of
throwing their flowers on erect stems, are very useful
for filling beds, and for placing singly in borders,
It is necessary to keep the decayed flowers removed
to encourage the production of fresh ones, and to
make the plants look as attractive as possible. The
height of any tall-growing varieties of either section
can be shortened by gently bending down the stem
when the plant is young, and pegging it securely to
the ground, as recommended in the case of the single
varieties. This tends.to bring the lower branches
to the earth, covering it, and forming a dense growth.
In planting a large bed the tallest should be put in
the centre and the dwarfest at the outer edge, pegging
down the plants whcre necessary.

Setzcrions oF DAHLIAS.

Show Varieties.

Joseph Ashby (Turner).

Lean i dee Joseph Green (Keynes).

Burgundy (Turner).

Buttercup (Fellowes).
Clara (Rawlings).
Colonist (Keynes).
Constancy (Keynes).
Flag of Truce (Wheeler).
Georgiana (Keynes).
George Rawlings (Raw-
lings).
Goldfinder (Fellowes).
Harry Keith (Keynes).
Henry Walton (Keynes).
Herbert Turner (Turner).
J. B. Service (Keynes).
James Cocker (Keyues).
James Stephen (Keynes).
John Neville Keynes

Keynes).
J Ni Standish (Turner).

Lady Gladys Herbert
(Keynes).

Miss Cannell (Eckford).

Mr. G. Harris (Rawlings).

Mrs. Foster (Turner).

Mrs. Gladstone (Hurst).

Mrs, Glasscock (Rawlings).

Mrs. Harris (Harris).

Mrs. Langtry (Keynes).

Mrs. Shirley Hibberd (Raw-
lings).

Prince Bismarck (Fellowes).

Prince of Denmark (Fel-
lowes). .

R. T. Rawlings (Rawlings).

Sunbeam (Fellowes).

William Rawlings (Raw-
lings).

Fancy Varieties.

Annie Pritchard (Keynes).
Charles Wyatt (Keynes).
Fanny Sturt (Pope).

Gaiety (Keynes).

George Barnes (Keynes).
Grand Sultan (Keynes).
Henry Eckford (Rawlings).
Henry Glasscock (Keynes).
Hugh Austin (Keynes).

James O’Brien (Keynes).
John Forbes (Keynes).
Laura Haslam (fellowes).
Mrs. H. Halls (Rawlings).
Mrs. Saunders (Turner).
Peacock (Turner).
Professor Fawcett ( eee a
Rev.J.B.M.Camm (Keynes,
W. G. Head (Turner).

40

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Bedding Dahlius.

Carl Mendel, bright crimson.
Cloth of gold, yellow.
Crimson Gem, crimson.
Geame Thompson, pale yel-

low.
John Wyatt,crimson-scarlet

Marguerite Bruant, white.
Rising Sun, scarlet.

Royal Purple, purple.
Yellow Pet, pure yellow.
Zelinda, crimson-purple.

Bouquet or Pompon Dahlias,

Comtesse von Sternberg,
yellow and white.

Coquette, orange,

Dora, primrose and white.

E, F. Jungker, amber.

Favourite, dark maroon.

Fireball, orange-red.

Gazelle, yellow, edged ma-
genta.

Gem, rich scarlet.

Lady Blanche, pure white.
Little Duchess, white, edged

crimson.

Louis Rodani, deep shaded
lilac.

Mabel, bright lilac.

Prince of Lilliputians, very
dark maroon,

German Favourite, crimson- Princess Sophie Sopieha,
lake. shaded lake,
Grass an Wien, shaded buff. Titania, yellow, tipped with
Hedwig Polwig, orange- bronze.
scarlet. Wilhelm Nitsche, red, tip-
Isabel, bright orange-scarlet. ped with white.
Single Dahlias.

(The following are well-known and serviceable varieties,
but many new ones are being raised every year.)

Alba, pure white.
Amos Perry, shining ma-

roon,.
Coccinea, bright scarlet.
Dorothy, white and peach,
Firefly, pale crimson.
Harlequin, rose and purple.
Mauve Queen, tae lilac,
Miss Mary Anderson, crim-

son scarlet.

Mrs. Bowman, purplish
magenta.

Mr. Kennett, striped.

Norah, bright pink.

Paragon, rich maroon and
purple.

Rosamond, bright rosy pink.

Sunset, bright crimson.

Yellow Dwarf, yellow.

Yellow Queen, deep yellow.

Nymph, yellow, tipped with
red. 5

The rich semi-double Cactus Dahlia, D. Juarezii, should
2zlso be included in this collection.

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS.

By Dr. Maxwe.y T. Masters, F.R.S.

. NUTRITION,

E have now passed in review the principal re-
serve,.organs in which food is stored for the

use of the plant when growth begins. In a general
way we have indicated the nature of the change from
the insoluble reserve-material, useless as such, to the
soluble food capable of being utilised in the growth
of the plant. We are, therefore, now in a position
to follow up the life-history of the plant, to see in
what growth consists, what circumstances promote
it, what the plant feeds on, how it obtains its food,
and what it does with it. Growth consists essen-
tially in the formation of new “tissue” or sub-
stance, and this is effected at the growing points
before mentioned. This new tissue or substance is
composed of aggregates of minute bladders called
“cells” (Fig. 31), generally more or less globular, but
subject to great variations in form. The study of
cells demands the exercise of the keenest powers of
the trained botanist and chemist. In this place it is
proposed only to deal with a few leading facts and
phenomena concerning them of special importance

to the cultivator, leaving those who desire to pursue
the subject further to consult some of the more re-
cently published text-books.

Cells, their Structure and Office.—For our
present purpose it suffices to say that the cell exists
in various forms and phases, but that in its perfect
condition it consists of an outer bag of membrane
called the “cell-wall,” and of certain contents,
of which the most important is the substance known
as “protoplasm.” The other contents—the cell-sap,
the vacuoles, the nucleus, &c.—cannot be advan-
tageously treated of in this place. The cell-wall is,
as has been said, a bag of membrane, for the most
part closed, so that one cell is isolated from its

Fig. 31.—Aggregation of Cells constituting Cellular Tissue,
shown cut across.

neighbour, but not so much so as to prevent all pas-
sage of some of the contents of one cell into the
cavity of another. That passage may be effected
either by endosmosis, which is the most ordinary
method, or by the direct passage of the protoplasm
of one cell into another.

Endosmosis is the term applied to that process
by means of which a thin fluid, say water, passes
through an intervening membrane, even though
there be no visible pores in it, to mix with a thicker
fluid, say syrup. This process may easily be exem-
plified by stretching a piece of bladder over the broad
end of a funnel (a, Fig. 32), inverting it and pouring
into it through the narrow tube (B) some sugar and
water. This done, the funnel may be placed, with
the broad end downwards, in a vessel of water as in
the figure, the tube of the funnel being secured by
means of a ring and screw to a stand. After a
short time, varying according to temperature and
the strength of the syrup, it will be found that the
water from the vessel will pass through the bladder,
causing it to be distended, and the fluid in the
funnel, becoming more abundant and more and
more diluted, rises in the tube. It is, therefore, by

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS.

osmosis or endosmosis that the water outside a cell
passes through the membrane into its cavity. And so
if the thin watery contents pass out by exudation or
by pressure from one cell, they may pass by osmosis
into another adjacent cell with thicker contents.
This passage of fluid from cell to cell is manifested
principally by the “cell-sap,” which is of a thin
watery character.

The “‘protoplasm”’ differs from the membranous
cell-wall, and from the
cell-sap, in being a thick
viscid fluid containing a
proportion of nitrogen, and
sometimes a little sulphur
and phosphorus, in addition
to the carbon, oxygen, and
hydrogen, of which cell-
membrane is composed. The
protoplasm is by far the
most important part of the
plant. Though seemingly
a mere translucent, jelly-
like substance, it is the seat
of all the life-work done in
and by the plant. With it
and by it the plant lives ;
without it, it is dead. The
essential part of animal
structure is practically iden-
tical with vegetable proto-
plasm, so that in this
wonderful combination all
the phenomena of life,
vegetable or animal, are
manifested. Until recently,
it was supposed that (with a

ui)

41

have seen, essentially consists in the increased for-
mation from the old material of protoplasm and
cell-membrane, and to insure this new formation
certain conditions must be complied with, and com-
plied with, too, at the proper time. These conditions
are, a favourable amount of temperature and light,
and an adequate provision of suitable food, especially
of water.

As to the amount of heat required, that varies
within wide limits. Arctic
snows do not absolutely
banish vegetation ; tropical
heat does not destroy it
(provided water be sup-
i plied). On the other hand,
excessive cold or excessive
heat will either of them
destroy the protoplasm.
Each plant thrives best at a
certain temperature, and is
destroyed by too high or too
low a temperature, the exact
degree being determined
only by practical experience
in each case. Even the
separate functions of the

plant are regulated in the

same way, as has been
mentioned at an earlier
page (vol. i., p. 23). The

general principle is easy to
understand, but when the
gardener wishes to reduce
the principle to practice in
individual cases, nothing
but experience and obser-

few exceptions) the proto-
plasm of one cell, in the
adult condition, was abso-
lutely cut off from that in
the adjoining cell by
means of the walls of the two cells; but it has
now been shown that there is frequently a pas-
sage of minute threads of protoplasm from one cell
to another through apertures in the cell-walls of
extreme minuteness. The passage is revealed by
treating the protoplasm with some chemical re-agent
which stains it, and thus renders the threads visible
under the highest powers of the microscope. In
this manner, the ‘continuity of the protoplasm” has
been demonstrated in so many instances as to lead to
the inference that it is a general phenomenon ; and,
if this prove to be so, many other points of physio-
logy, at present obscure, will be rendered intelligible.

Conditions of Growth.—Growth, then, we

Fig. 32.—Endosmometer.

vation can guide him satis-
factorily, because “ circum-
stances alter cases’ so very
materially. Fortunately, in
most cases the range is so
wide that comparatively little difficulty is expe-
rienced ; but in other casus great nicety is demanded,
and in plants which have but little power of adapting
themselves to circumstances, in forcing-operations, in
the proper ripening and colouring of fruits, and the
like, practical instruction and personal observation
are matters of primary importance to the cultivator.

We may, however, point out that while a Inow-
ledge of the climatic conditions may be, and often
is, of the highest importance to the cultivator of a
plant derived from a particular locality, yet iv
does not necessarily follow that the gardener will
obtain the best results by imitating, or even ai-
tempting to imitate, in this country, those parti-
cular natural conditions. In fact, plants are verv

42

accommodating—some much more so than others—
and hence they are enabled to thrive under circum-
stances very different from those which are natural
to them. Again, while it is easy to imitate some of the
natural conditions, say temperature, it is often quite
out of our power to reproduce the attendant phe-
nomena of brilliant light or abundant atmospheric
moisture. The home cultivator, while thankful for
any climatic indications with which the meteorolo-
gist and traveller can supply him, must study rather
to insure the particular combination and adjust-
ment of circumstances which will enable him to
grow the plant here. It is rarely possible to secure
the same combination of propitious circumstances
as exist in the native country of the plant. For
these reasons we refer to the practical articles in
this volume, for indications as to the effect of tem-
perature on growth more directly useful than can be
obtained from a discussion of the matter from the
point of view of the physiologist or meteorologist.
It may suffice to repeat in general terms what has
been said under the head of germination, that heat
and moisture are the two principal factors in pro-
moting growth. Light is less directly beneficial,
its most potent influence being exerted in other di-
rections, more especially in the nutritive processes.
It is obvious that, if growth is to be continued, some-
thing more than heat and moisture will be required,
because the reserve stores of food will sooner or later
be used up, and heat and moisture alone will not
suffice to build up new protoplasm or to accumulate
fresh stores of food. The moisture supplies only
two ingredients of the protoplasm (hydrogen and
oxygen); the heat itself supplies none, but simply
acts as a stimulant. It becomes necessary, there-
fore, to consider the food of plants, its nature and
sources, and this will involve the consideration of
the work done in the cells in general, and in those
of the root and leaf especially.

The Work of the Cell.—The general structure
of the cell has been already alluded to, The work
it does may be briefly summarised. As all plants
and all parts of plants are aggregates of cells, it
follows that the work done by the plant as a whole
is merely the sum of that done by individual cells.
The cell absorbs and exhales moisture and gases,
but it is incapable of absorbing solid matters, at
least no such material can pass the cell-wall. It
changes and modifies the substances it absorbs ;
under the agency of heat and light it effects
changes at once more subtle and more vast than
the chemist has yet been able to bring about in his
laboratory; it contracts and expands; the old cell
divides and develops new ones. All this is effected
by the agency of the protoplasm. The cell-wall does

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

indeed act the part of a membrane in the purely
physical process of osmosis, and it may serve as a
shield and a protection ; but all the more important
work of the cell is done in and by the protoplasm.
Some of the cells remain unchanged, or at least
comparatively so, while others in course of growth
develop into fibres, vessels, and other elements of
plant structure which are told off, as it were, for
various offices, and correspondingly equipped.

It is not consistent with our plan to go into detail
as to the form of cells; but as we shall have frequent
occasion to mention them hereafter, we must allude
to one or two modifications.

In the first place, we must again remind tho reader
that the cell may exist without any membranous
cover at all, that at one stage of its existence a naked
and separate mass of protoplasm constitutes the
whole cell—the whole organism, in fact. Masses of
protoplasm of this character do not, asa rule, long
remain in this condition. They contract, or they
throw out long “feelers,” as it were; they be-
come, moreover, clothed with hair-like processes of
extreme tenuity,-called “cilia.” By these means
they are enabled to move from place to place. At
other times masses of this character run together and
become incorporated into one mass, as invariably in
the reproductive process, and sooner or later each
one becomes clothed with a membranous covering, as
above mentioned. When this happens the cell is
perfected, and its activity is in a measure arrested.

Chlorophyll. — The first is the cell with
“chlorophyll.” Some cells contain no green colour-
ing matter at all, such are the cells constituting the
fungi at all periods of their life. Others, especially
those exposed to the light, contain in greater or less
proportion the green colouring matter called chloro-
phyll, the exact chemical nature of which is still a
matter of dispute, although no such difference of
opinion exists as to its extreme importance. We
shall have to allude to it at greater length in con-
sidering the subject of leaf-action, and may, there-
fore, now confine ourselves to the general statement
that the special office of the cell containing chloro-
phyll is to absorb carbonic acid gas from the atmo-
sphere, to break up that combination of carbon and
oxygen, to utilise the carbon, and set free the oxygen.
The cell without chlorophyll retains the oxygen and
gives out carbonic acid gas, as in the act of breathing.

Wood-cells.—Another cell, to which we must
here allude, is the wood-cell, It is generally
elongated in form and thickened in the interior
with woody deposit. Aggregations of such cells go
to form the skeleton, as it were, of the plant, stiffen
it, and enable it to support itself, and to resist the

ee ee

wee me

Bod Be

GLASS STRUCTURES AND APPLIANCES. 43

influence of wind. Cells of this character form the
bulk of timber and of fibrous matter like hemp or
flax. (Fig. 33.)

Vessels.—Vessels constitute another modifica-
tion of cells, generally elongated, and with one
or more fibres coiled up in the interior. These
fibres are deposits from the protoplasm, similar
to the woody matter, but not spread in layers
over the whole inner surface of the cell. The fibre

GLASS STRUCTURES AND
APPLIANCES.

BELL-GLASSES, CLOCHES, HAND-LIGHTS.

HE fickleness and severities of our climate com.
pelled the horticulturist to have recourse to
protecting structures of some sort or other at very
early times. The higher the culture and the more
beautifal and valuable the plants grown, the greater

Fig. 33.—Woody
Fibre, magnified,

may readily be seen by breaking across a leaf-stalk
of the Strawberry, when the fine fibres may be
pulled out. They either form complete coils, or
are broken up into sepaiate fragments, producing an
appearance of more or less regular bars, or pits, the
pits being really the interspaces between the ends of
the bars. All true flowering plants have spiral ves-
sels (Fig. 34). Ferns are remarkable for the posses-
sion of scalariform vessels, in which the bars are so
regularly arranged as to resemble the rungs of a
ladder. Usually they require the aid of the
microscope to render them visible. The vessels vary
in character in different cases, but it is not meces-
sary for our purpose to go into further detail.

Fig. 34.—Spirat Vessels between
Pith-cells and Wood-cells.

Fig. 35.—Striated and Punctated
Vessels of Melon.

the need of such structures to protect them from
sudden destruction. Hence the growing demand
for more “glass,” and better glass, may be said to
have run parallel with the advancement of horticul-
ture. Several counter-influences, however, checked
that demand. Among these the more potent were,
that its use was but imperfectly understood, its price
was high, its quality inferior. It was not until the
excise duty on glass was swept away that it was set
free and made fit for horticultural purposes. Long
before the era of Crystal Palaces, however, glass—
albeit it was mostly green rather than white—was
more or less freely used for horticultural purposes.
The vital importance of shelter without shadow was

44

then but very imperfectly realised; it can hardly be
said to be yet perfectly understood. Any glass, the
thicker the better, was gladly welcomed by the cul-
tivator to protect his plants from the injurious
and destructive influences of cold. As these
plants were from the necessity of the case generally
or invariably in the open ground, it followed that
the glass had to be carried to the plants—not the
plants to the glass, as is now so generally done.
Hence the origin of bell-glasses, hand-lights, glass
Doxes, frames, and all the smaller glass protectors and
appliances now so common and so useful in horti-
cultural practices. They carried protection to the

§\

|

Fig. 1.—Movahle Top.

|

Fig. 2—With Knob.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. ‘

unless unusually well made, mostly admits more or
less of the surrounding air to the atmosphere it
encloses. Hence, for purposes of propagation, im
which the production and maintenance of a semi-
saturated atmosphere is indispensable, bell-glasses
are best; while for the mere purposes of protection,
hand-lights are generally equally good, and even
jn more general use.

However, the distinction here made between bell-
glasses and hand-lights is not always found to exist
in practice, for though bell-glasses as a rule are
mostly cut or moulded in one piece, considerable in-
genuity and expense have been expended on them to

Fig. 3.—Without Knob.

BELL-GLASSES.

plants, and enabled them to bridge over climatic
severities in safety, thus earning the well-merited
description of portable green-houses and conserva-
tories in miniature; and they are such, if function
rather than area is to be accepted as the basis of our
descriptive names. Hence it may prove as logical
as convenient to begin our notes on green-houses and
conservatories with these more humble glass struc-
tures and appliances.

Bell-glasses. — Horticultural history is silent
on the point of whether the bell-glass or the
hand-light was the first in the field asa plant pro-
tector. Most probably the former. The most vital
difference between them is that the one is run or
moulded in one piece; the other is formed or made
of several. This is not a mere distinction without a
difference. The bell-glass seals the enclosed atmos-
phere hermetically, cutting off all contact with the
external air. The hand-glass, on the contrary,

make the top movable at will (see Fig. 1) for pur-
poses of ventilation and the moderating of extremes
of temperature. By removing the super glass
that seals the opening in the crown, the enclosed
temperature can be adjusted to a nicety and any
amount of air admitted. This obviates the necessity
of moving the glass bodily, which is objectionable on
the ground of inconvenience in the case of large
glasses, and also because, when frequently moved,
the glass seldom sits so closely on its base as to
render it wholly air-proof at that point, a matter
of more importance in propagation than for protec-
tive purposes,

The major portion of bell-glasses have, however,
always been, and are still, made in one piece, and
hence, if placed on an even and level base, hermeti-
cally seal the enclosed area. They are made.of dif-
ferent sizes, from two inches to twelve inches of
more in diameter. They may also be had with of
without knobs (see Figs. 2 and 3). We had almost

GLASS STRUCTURES AND APPLIANCES. 45

written that the former are bell-glasses and the
jatter cloches. But this would hardly be correct,
though the majority of cloches are knobless. They
are more easily made and consequently cheaper, and
take far less space to pack and store, without knobs.
Against this must be placed the greater convenience
for lifting and removal furnished by the knobs.
Hitherto in this country the use of bell-glasses has
been chiefly confined to purposes of propagation (see
Fig. 4) and the protection of tender plants. Useful
and indispensable as they 5
are in regard to these, La
they are still more valu- x
able as stimulants to cul-
tivation. In France and
other parts of the Con-
tinent they are so gene-
rally used, and that in so
wholesale a way, that it
is no exaggeration to say
that in certain seasons and
localities each cauliflower,

Fig. 4.—Currines UNDER BELL-GLASs

aa, Bell-glasses ; b, hot-bed; c, hot-water pipes to
heat b; d, walls of the pit.

They not merely protect seeds from the ravages
of birds, but hasten their germination and carry the
young plants through the danger period with a
rush. .

Hand-lights.—Of these we furnish illustrations
of several varieties (Figs. 5, 6, 7), all used for simi-
lar purposes to cloches and bell-glasses, and very
frequently as substitutes for them. For the pur-
poses of fostering growth and the protection of
semi-tender plants they
are equal or superior to
either, while their larger
size enables them to cover
larger plants and enclose
wider areas. Unless par-
ticularly well made and
carefully used they are
i never so close as the
cloche or bell-glass, and
hence not so well adapted

for purposes of propaga-

~~

ES.

s

Fig. 5.—Copper Frame in one piece.

Fig. 6.—Iron Frame in one piece.

Fig. 7.—Movable Top placed to
admit air.

HanpD-Lieuts,

lettuce, and endive or salad plant has its cloche ; and
the large, sweet, crisp produce from under them
affords the highest possible testimony to their fos-
tering power in accelerating and enlarging growth.
Their effect on quality is equally striking, perhaps
even more so, while they reduce the time from the
start to the finish to the shortest possible limits.

Hitherto the stimulating influences of cloches and
bell-glasses have been mostly confined to the culti-
vation of salads and such vegetables as Cucumbers
and Cauliflowers in the open air. Probably they
have a yet greater field of usefulness before them in
the future, in connection with the fostering of early
spring flowers and the protection of semi-tender
plants. and perhaps the culture of hardier varieties of
Melons in the open air. Their usefulness in raising
seeds in the open has long been recognised.

tion, unless for such common things as Pinks,
Cloves, and Carnations, pipings of which root rapidly
under hand-lights.

The old-fashioned hand-lights (Figs. 5 and 6)
were made in one piece, the ribs being formed of
iron, copper, zinc, or lead. On the whole, iron is
best as being the most durable, but copper was
generally used at one time, the base and the upper
side of the vertical portion being formed of iron.
Now the entire framework is generally formed of
iron, the upper side of the sash-bars being rebated so
as to receive the glass. But dry glazing in horti-
culture was first applied to hand-glasses, and is still
practised in the formation of such caps or hand-
glasses as those illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6. Inall
these, and several other forms that might be de-
scribed, the whole of the hand-light, when finished,

46 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

is in one piece, and hence it must be lifted off bodily
to give access to the plants, or partially from its base
to admit air to them.

To prevent the trouble and inconvenience of this,
the hand-light in two pieces (Fig. 7) was invented,
the base or vertical portion being in one part and
the roof or sloping portion in another. This form
insures that the base of the light shall always be
air-tight, a cultural point of great. importance, as
chills there seriously affect growth. Air can be
freely admitted by tilting up one side, and that
the sheltered one of the top, or by turning it
slightly or boldly out of the square, as in Fig. 7.
By lifting the top off wholly, free access is had to
the plants for purposes of top-dressing, culture,
training, &c. The tops are held firmly in position

Marrow, and many other purposes, such as the fos-
tering and the growth of seeds and plants; and no.
garden can be properly furnished with horticultural
appliances without several hand-lights. In large
gardens the supply ranges from two to five or even
twenty dozen.

MISCELLANEOUS PROTECTORS.

Glass and Earthenware.— Various other con-
trivances have been adopted to run abreast with or

Fig. 8.—Glazing combined with Hollow Bricks or Tiles.

by their own weight; but in very windy or exposed
positions, projections proceed from the cap or cover-
ing part of the light, that overlap the bottom por-
tion. These hold the two together as in a vice, and
render any displacement quite impossible, while the
specific gravity of the top insures its vertical se-
curity.

Hand-lights are made of different sizes, and are of
the greatest possible use in horticultural practice.
Perhaps the most useful are those of fifteen or
eighteen inches square, with a height of level side
of six or nine inches, and a total height of fifteen or
eighteen inches. These are admirably adapted for
the wintering of Cauliflower plants, each light hold-
ing five; placing over ridge Cucumbers or Vegetable

supersede cloches and hand-lights. These have all
been useful in assisting cultivators in their incessant
warfare against climatic severities. One of the
simplest of these is an inverted flower-pot. Being
opaque, these of course have to be removed or tilted
up in the day-time. They are, however, extremely
useful for the protection of such plants as Dahlias,
Cauliflowers, &c., in the early summer, as they re-
sist all the late spring frosts with perfect ease and
success,

Attempts used to be made to render them more
useful and to convert them into day protectors as
well as night, either by enlarging the holes in the
bottom, or by knocking the bottom out and placing
a sheet of glass over it, keeping the latter in posi-

GLASS STRUCTURES AND APPLIANCES. 47

tion in windy weather by placing a pebble or other
stone or weight on the top of it. These partially
transparent pots proved very efficient protectors,
with far more cold-resisting powers than either
cloches or hand-lights.

This probably led the late Mr. Rendle, the author
of the tank system of heating—and now chiefly
known in connection with a new method of dry
glazing—to his successful attempts to combine the
cold-resisting qualities of earthenware with the
transparent properties of glass in a new and more
ambitious method of protecting fruits, flowers, and
vegetables in the open air. Hollow or solid tiles
were used for the sides, which could be built up of
any height, finishing with a groove on the inner

shows the glass overlapping where it joins, thus
making the whole almost waterproof.

It is obvious that, by heightening the sides and
increasing the width, sufficient area may be provided
for the culture of Roses, fruit-trees, dwarf shrubs,
Peas, French Beans, or other plants or flowers. In
such cases bricks on the flat do well for the base,
the groove-tiles being merely reserved for the top.

Of course, as the urea is extended, the strength of
the glass must also be increased, to enable it to bear
the weight and wear-and-tear of use; but the most
useful sizes range from four to twelve inches deep in
front, from six to twenty-four at back, and from
nine to thirty in width.

By curving the back tile in the form of a C, as in

Fig. 9.—Large Protector for Vine or Cordon Fruit-trees.

side of the top tile for the reception of a square of
stout glass. This system enables areas of any needed
size to be enclosed with the utmost facility and
safety.

The system has now been in use for some years,
and though it has not superseded bell-glasses nor
cloches, has proved most useful in the culture and
protection of salads, the earlier maturation of French
Beans and Tomatoes, the growth of Cucumbers, the
forwarding of bulbs and other spring flowers, the
efficient protection of Plum and other cordon fruit-
trees, and even the growth of Vines in the open
air (see Fig. 9).

For most purposes the tiles are merely straight or
hollow ones, terminated with a groove upon their
upper edge (Fig. 8), which are admirably adapted
for the protection of Cauliflowers or the culture of
Lettuces or other salad plants. The hollow tiles
are certainly lighter, and are said to be warmer than
the solid ones.

Fig. § gives a full illustration of those most use-
ful appliances, and explains how the stout square of
glass is fitted into the groove of the tiles; it also

Fig. 9, more space, as well as more warmth, is pro-
vided. These have been used most successfully for
the growth and ripening of Grape-vines, and, as
already remarked, are equally well adapted for the
protection and successful cultivation of cordon fruit-
trees, Maréchal Niel, and other rather tender Roses.
Fig. 10 isa special protector, not unlike a section of
a large sewage or water-pipe, only that it is fur-
nished around a considerable portion of its upper
side with a groove for the reception of a square of
glass ; being, in fact, a great improvement on the
inverted flower-pots with their bottoms knocked out,
already adverted to. This is a most useful form for
placing over tender trees, shrubs, or other plants,
such as Fuchsias, Tree Peonies, Hydrangeas, &c., to
carry them safely through severe winters in cold
localities. This formis also admirably adapted for
placing over the crowns of Rhubarb in the open,
after the more severe frosts of the spring have passed
away. The heat of the sun passes freely through
the glass, and that heat is retained by the thick
earthenware case, the result being a rapid produc-
tion of edible produce. One great advantage of

48 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

these protectors over cloches and hand-lights arises
from the opacity of their earthenware sides. This,
and the enclosed atmosphere well stored with caloric,
render them frost-proof in ordinary weather. In
seasons of severe frost the semi-level or gently sloping
surface of their roof may readily be covered with
litter, mats, boughs, or other cold-rcsisters, thus in-
suring the safety of the plants. Bell-glasses and
hand-lights are not only sooner cooled down to the
standard of the surrounding atmosphere, but their
peculiar forms render it difficult, almost impossible,
to cover them effectually, unless indeed sufficient
litter is used to reach as high as their crowns.

Protectors with wooden sides, grooved on their
upper inner edges for the reception of glass, have
also been very success-
fully used. These ab-
sorb less heat than the
earthenware ones, but
they also part with it
more slowly, so that
virtually the sides of
such are proof against
the ingress of cold. The
chief objection to the
use of wood thus placed
on or in the damp
earth is that it very
soon rots; otherwise no
protectors can be more
simply made, put up, or
used. A six-inch-wide
board in front, one inch
thick, a foot-wide one at
the back, placed a foot apart, the distance being
spanned with a sheet of 2l-oz. glass, will carry
numbers of salad and other plants safely through the
winter. The sides of old packing-boxes, without
top and bottom, placed on the soil with one or more
sheets of glass over them, form rough-and-ready, yet
very safe and useful protectors, that must be within
reach of all. We have even heard of old hat, bon-
net, and ribbon boxes—those made of paper and of
shavings—deep punnets, and other forms of basket
and of wicker-work, doing good service as pro-
tectors in the early spring and autumn. Calico,
canvas, and felt protectors, tightly strained on any
sort of rough wood or wire frames, are also very
efficient.

But these last-named contrivances bring us in
close proximity to the one-light frame, itself per-
haps the most useful appliance within the whole
range of horticultural practice, and the germ of
all our magnificent glass-houses for horticultural
purposes, which will form the subject of our next
chapter.

Fig. 10.—Special Protector of Glass and Marthenware.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

By Witu1am WILDSMITH.

VASES AND BASKETS.

a adjuncts to the various styles of flower gar-

dening, and of summer bedding in parti-
cular, vases are indispensable; but, like everything
else connected with gardening, good judgment is
requisite, as to what number, size, or shape shall
be employed, and what positions they are to occupy.
All of these conditions can only satisfactorily be
dealt with according to the staxdpoint or style of
each garden. Thus, the question of vases and
baskets becomes to a large extent a personal matter.
But for all that it may be well to indicate the line of
: procedure to best insure
a good result ; and first
as to the extent to which
this form of floral decora-
tion should be carried.

Wumber.—A severely
formal parterre may most
appropriately have the
largest number of vases,
but even in this connec-
tion their use may be,
and often is, excessive.
On the pedestals of steps,
and principal angles of
balustrades, and also on
the turf as dividing-
marks, so to speak,
between the varying
designs of beds—to this extent only ought they to
be used. Those having any doubt as to whether
more or less should be employed, may soon decide
the point by temporarily placing either vases, or
their representatives in the torm of blocks of wood
or large flower-pots; and if, after surveying the
garden from all points, it has the appearance of
being over-weighted with ornament, or if the vases
cut up or intersect the view of the beds, their
number should be reduced till such appearances are
imperceptible. In small gardens their number
should be confined to the pedestals of steps at
the entrance to the house, and as centres on the
grass-plot.

Size and Shape.—These points also are only
determinable after taking into account the character
and surroundings of the garden. Obviously vases
of large size would look quite out of place in a small
garden, and vice versé; whilst as to shape, the
simplest designs are ever the most pleasing, and—
what is of greater importance—are generally better

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

adapted to the growth of plants than the more fanci-
ful shapes. Utility rather than ornamentation should
be a prime consideration, if the growth of plants is
to be of a satisfactory nature. /

Baskets.—These may be said to be forms of
vases on a large scale, and are better suited for
certain positions than ordinary vases are. A basket-
formed bed, in fact, looks well in almost any spot
where a flower-bed does not look out of place; and—

49

constructed of wicker or strong wire according to
the taste of the operator. Baskets of this character
are most appropriately placed in quiet nooks among
shrubs, or asa terminus to walks where it is desired
to have flowers. On a small scale they look ex-
ceedingly well in old-fashioned gardens of hardy
flowers, and being just as appropriately filled with
this class of flowers as with summer bedders, there
is no reason why they should not be assigned a
place in such gardens; certainly they ought to

Baskgt-BED AT HECKFIELD PLACE, WINCHFIELD. ibrurtc.

what to some is a great consideration—such can
be constructed of home materials. The stump of an
old tree hollowed out, and handles of wicker or
wire-work over it for climbers, makes a basket-vase
equal in appearance to the finest stone or cement
work, and is certainly preferable to the latter for
placing in distant parts of the pleasure-grounds,
or indeed in any part except in a “ dressed ” garden
which abounds in stone-work.

Another kind of basket-bed that looks exceedingly
well is that formed by cutting up Larch or Spruce
Fir poles into regular lengths of, say two feet,
which, after being pointed, are driven into the
fround close together, to the form the bed is desired
to assume (round looks best), then to be filled in
with soil to the height of the wood, and handles

be far preferred to vases of a dressy and forma!
pattern.

Basket-beds intended for the parterre,as a matter
of course, must be of a more elaborate description.
The one shown in the illustration is made of
Portland cement, in imitation of stone, the design
being of a true basket description. It stands two
feet six inches above the ground-level, is sixteen
feet long, and eight feet wide at the middle, and
gradually tapers to five feet at the ends, the shape
being what may be described as a well-balanced
oval. The position this bed occupies is the centre of
the turf on a terrace-garden, on each side of which
there are beds of geometric design; this, and
smaller baskets of similar design, allowing when
necessary of such beds being planted after the most

50° CASSELL'S .POPULER. GARDENING.

‘rigidly formal pattern, without their really:appearing*
80, solely by reason of the informal style. of planting.

the baskets.
‘ These large basket-beds are well suited to occupy

the most conspicuous positions in any type of

_ geometrical garden, and are every way an‘ advance
on what’ may be termed the “stone and statuary
gardening,” which is a far too invariable accom-
paniment to gardens of this character. The latter,
viewed from, an architectural point of view,-may be
in good taste, and quite proper, but so far as
gardening is concerned, deserve entire exclusion in
favour of the useful yet appropriate substitutes here
named. This same description of basket-bed may
be of any desired shape or size to suit any given
spot. We have them oval, round, and square, and
ef various sizes. The round occupies a central
position on turf, surrounded with beds of circular
outline; the square, the like position surrounded
with: beds square in outline; and the ovals serve
teally as a set of beds to divide two other sets of beds
—oblongs and rounds—which without such division
would present a depressingly formal appearance.

Soil and Planting.—It is almost needless to
add that good soil is of greater importance in vase
and basket culture than for flower-beds, the confined
space, exposure to sunshine, and other artificial con-
ditions, rendering good soil an imperative necessity.
A good holding loam and well-rotted cow-manure is
the best description of soil for nearly every kind of
flowering plant ; but all cannot obtain this descrip-
tion of soil, and it must therefore suffice to say, use
the best at command. If light, press it the more
firmly together ; if poor, add a greater quantity of
manure ; and, above all, well drain.

_ As to planting, or arrangement of plants, person-
ally we prefer mixtures both for vases and basket-
beas. A departure from this rule may, pérhaps, be
desirable in regard to small vases, though even with

these we would never have less than two kinds of.

plants—one for upright growth, and the other to
droop over the sides.
lected point in the furnishing of vases, but only

requires a very moderate amount of thought, or,.

better still, a practical comparison of the two mades
—with and without drooping plants—to make the
practice general.

The following are given as fair samples of mixtures
we would advise for the generality of vases: a tall

Fuchsia, surrounded with Pelargoniums, flowering.

and variegated alternate, and edged with Ivy-leaved
Pelargonium to droop over the sides. Another: a
eentral plant of Grevillea robusta, surrounded with
scarlet and rose-coloured Pelargoniums, edged with
blue Lobelia and Pelargonium Manglesii variegata

This latter is a much-neg-

altertiate. Another! a-central‘plant of variegated*
Abutilon, surrounded . with. dark-flowered. Fuchsias

and: tall, variegated. Pelargoniums alternate, and

edged with scarlet Tropeolum Lobbianum.... Another :.

a central plant of Alvizzia lophantha, surrounded with

variegated Pelargonium (Lady Plymouth), and pink

Pelargonium (Christine), and edged with variegated:

Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums and Viola Blue-bell: .

Basket-beds being so much larger, the variety of
inixtures can be of unlimited extent, only great care
should be exercised in the disposition of the plants,
that when full-grown they may present a ‘somewhat
even balance as to height over the whole basket, the
highest point being at the centre. The planting of
the basket shown in the illustration is as follows :
the tall plants are Abutilons, Cannas, Marguerites,
and single Dahlias; the intermediate size being
Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Marvel of Peru, Petunias,
and Heliotropes; the smaller and outer line of
plants are Lobelias, Verbenas, Violas, Stocks, Asters,
variegated Pelargoniums, &c. The drooping plants
are Tropwolum, Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, Japanese
Honeysuckle, Cobea scandens, Maurandyana Bar-
elayana, and Clematis.

These examples will suffice to show the manner of
arrangement of dressed vases and baskets; that of
rustic vases and baskets may be of a: simpler de-
scription and of hardier plants, with a view to
permanence of effect. Shrubs of the Retinospora or
Cupressus order may be used as centres, and the
edgings of Ivy, Periwinkles, Japanese Honeysuckle,’
and: Violas, whilst the handles may be climbing’
Roses, Clematis, and Tropsolums; scarlet’ Pelargo-"
niums intermixed with these in the summer season
are really all that is needed to make an excellent
summer arrangement. Should it be wished to plant’
these rustic-formed beds with flowering plants, the:

‘same‘as the-more dressy baskets, they may of cout
. be: so planted,'but:a few small shrubs dotted over

them, and variegated Ivy and Periwinkle as
droopers, ought to be used.with the flowers, to, bring
them into greater harmony with the surrounding
shrubs, which position, we repeat, is the best for
beds of this description.

The winter arrangement of vases and baskets
must necessarily be done with shrubs of suitable size
and description, and by following out the same rule
of arrangement as for.the summer, particularly in
regard to overhanging plants; Ivies, Periwinkles
(Vincas), Japanese Honeysuckles, and Cotoneasters
being excellent planta for that, purpose.

‘ Watering and Keep. —Good soil and perfect
arrangement are valueless if after-attention be -want-
ing. The first requisite, after planting, is a good
watering to well settle. the soil about, the roots; next,

oe
a

4
- 3

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. oL

a mulching or surfacing of leaf-soil, decayed ma-
nure, or cocoa-fibre refuse (this last the neatest),
which prevents cracking of the soil, and renders it
unnecessary to water so frequently, though when
this is done it
should be tho-
roughly, and not
in daily driblets.
Of course in hot
dry weather the
smaller vases re-
quire watering
daily, and even
twice a day; yet it
should not be for-
gotten that frequent
watering is an evil,
often an unavoid-
able one; but to
some extent sur-
face-mulching pre-
vents this, and
therefore ought to
be renewed when-
ever it is needed.
Next to watering
and mulching, is
the necessity of
picking off all
seed-pods and de-
cayed flowers.
These quickly ex-
haust the plants,
growth is checked,
and continuous
flowering becomes
an impossibility.
The effort there-
fore should be
made to pick over the plants at least once each week,
and to apply manure-water once in the same period.

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

Br Wrou1u Hues GoweEz.

Clianthus. — Pea-flowering plants of noble
aspect, well deserving a place in every green-house.
The soil should consist of loam and peat in equal
parts, with alittle sand added. All the kinds
require an abundant supply of water, but it must
not be allowed to stagnate about the roots, and in
summer the syringe must be freely used in order to
prevent the attacks of red spider.

C. ‘puniceus—the first species introduced to culti-

Cuuantavs DamPrerii.

vation—is a native of New Zealand, where, from the
appearance of the flowers, it gets the name of
Parrot’s- bill. The pinnate leaves are some six
inches long, and dark green; above, paler, and
slightly hairy be-
low; flowers pro-
duced in large
pendulous clusters
from the axils of
the leaves; deep
. reddish - crimson,
the individual
flowers being up-
wards of three
inches in length.
This plant requires
frequent pinching
in order to produce
a bush, as from its
natural habit it is
more adapted to
train upon a pillar
or trellis-work. In
many places the
Glory Pea, as it is
sometimes called,
forms a beautiful
object planted out
and trained upon a
wall in the open
air, but in very
severe weather it
should have protec-
tion. Cuttings and
seeds. May and
June. 1831.

C. Dampierti
(Dampier’s Glory.
Pea) is a_ less

robust-growing plant than the last-named kind. It

is a native of the arid desert regions of Australia,

and, like so many plants from such habitats,

proves very troublesome to cultivate; nevertheless,

the flowers are so gorgeous that when brought to

perfection it well repays any. amount of care.

Hitherto this plant has only been increased by seeds,:
and appears to be more of a biennial than a peren-

nial species. The seeds should be sown singly and-
should be re-potted in the large flowering-pots at:
once, as it cannot suffer repeated shifting. The

stems and leaves are all covered with long grey

hairs, which gives it quitea hoary appearance.:
Flowers larger than in C. puniceus; produced in

drooping racemes of five or six in a cluster; vivid

scarlet, with a large black blotch atthe base. 18,
flowers during the summer months.

52 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Cobsea.—A genus of climbing plants belonging
_ to the Phlox-worts. In appearance, however, they
have nothing in common with the other members of
the order. Cobeas are perennial plants of very
rapid growth, it being recorded that a plant of C.
scandens has been known to make two hundred fect
of growth in a single season, so that if any one re-
quires the roof of a green-house or conservatory
to be rapidly
covered, this is
by all means the
best plant to use
for the purpose.
They thrive best .
in a somewhat
stiff soil. Propa-
gation either by
seeds or cuttings.

C. scandens.—It
is about a hun-
dred years ago
since this rapid-
growing and
beautiful climber
first opened its
flowers in this
country; in its
native country it
is called the
“Violet Ivy.”
Its leaves are
pinnate, usually
being three pairs
of pinne, the
midrib _—termi-
nating ‘n a long
tendril, by which
it becomes firmly
fixed to anything
within its reach.
Flowers _ large,
bell-shaped, on
long foot-stalks,
from the axils of the leaves; when young, green,
changing to rich deep violet-purple when fully
expanded; stamens much exserted. It blooms
during the entire season. Mexico. ‘

C. scandens variegata.—An exact (counterpart of
the preceding species, but the leaves are all beauti-
fully margined with creamy-white, which renders it
very attractive. These plants are valuable as
green-house climbers on account of their freedom
from all kinds of insects. Summer months.

C. macrostemma.—A smaller-growing species than
C. scandens, but very similar in appearance. The
flowers, however, are much smaller and far inferior

CoBRA SCANDENS.

in beauty. When young they are green, but they
change to yellow with age. Summer months.
South America.

Coronilla.—The plants comprising this genus
derive their name from the arrangement of the
flowers, which form a corona or crown on the points
of the branches.

The species here quoted is in-
valuable for
green-house deco-
ration. The soil
should be two
parts loam and
one peat, with a
little sand added.
During the grow-
ing season give
plenty of air, and
if removed out-
doors after
growth is finished
it will be very
beneficial. Cut-
tings in sandy
soil.

C. glauca. —A
fine growing
shrubby __ plant,
with pinnate
glaucous leaves;
flowers Pea-
shaped, bright
yellow, and fra-
grant. There is
a variety with
variegated leaves.
which affords a
pleasing contrast
to the normal
form. South of
Europe. 1772.

Correa.—
These are often called Australian Fuchsias, although
they are not related in any way to that popular
genus of plants, the habit of growth and droop-
ing tubular flowers no doubt giving the first
settlers at the Antipodes a pleasant reminder of
the flower they had left behind in the old country.
There are numerous species, but many new and
handsome forms have originated in English gardens
from cross-breeding. The usual method of propaga-
tion is by cuttings, but some of the kinds are weak

rooters,and hence to improve the constitution these -.

are frequently grafted upon a strong-growing species

called @. alba, the flowers of which are not showy.

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS,

porated}
Group oF CoRREAS. J

«

A mixture of two parts peat, one of light loam, and
one of sharp sand suits them admirably ; drain well,
and water abundantly, but carefully. Correas soon
grow into handsome specimens if a little care is be-
stowed upon them. Re-pot before the shoots begin
to start, or when the young growths have made one
or two joints; look carefully over the plants and
pinch out the points in order to encourage laterals,
by which means bushy plants will be obtained.
When somewhat established in their new pots, they
will be much benefited by removal to the open air,
choosing a position in which they can be protéected
from rough weather, and where the full power of
the sun is tempered with a little shade. In autumn
remove them in-doors, where their beautiful flowers
will enliven the green-house throughout the dull
months of winter. All are natives of Australia,
chiefly in the southern and eastern parts.

C. Brilliant.—F lowers bright crimson, very fine.

C. cardinalis.—One of the finest and most showy
kinds. Flowers bright scarlet, tipped with green.
This plant naturally makes but few leaves, and re-
quires frequent stopping in order to obtain laterals,
or it will present a somewhat naked appearance.

C. Jardin d’ Hiver.—F lowers bright scarlet. A very
desirable plant, and one that is well furnished with
foliage.

C. magnifica.—A robust kind ; flowers large, white.

C. pulchella.—A twiggy-growing species, and very
handsome. Flowers crimson. 1824.

C. speciosa.—F lowers crimson, tipped with green.
1806.

Crinodendron.— A family belonging to the
Lindenblooms or Tiliacee. There is but one species
Imown, and this appears to be rare, even in its
native country, where it is called “‘Chequehue.” It
should be grown in a mixture of good rough peat
and loam, with some sharp sandadded. Drain the
pots well, and supply liberally with water during
the growing season. '

C. Hookerianum.—This is the only species, but is
also known by the name of C. Patagua. The leaves
are opposite or alternate, oblong lanceolate, and
acute, slightly toothed on the edges, bright green
above, paler below. The flowers are produced singly
or in pairs, on long pendulous foot-stalks. They are
bell-shaped, thick and fleshy in texture, and rich
rosy-crimson in colour. It is a very handsome
dwarf-growing shrub, well deserving a place in every
collection of green-house plants. Spring months.
Southern Chili. The correct name of this plant is
Tricuspidaria hexapetala.

Crowea.—A small family of Rue-worts, all
natives of Australia. And, as so many of the
plants from that country are spring bloomers, it

54 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Dehoves the cultivator to encourage such plants
as the various species of Croweas, which follow
them, and continue to maintain a succession of these
handsome flowers right into the autumn. Croweas
are not, however, as a rule, seen in our plant-houses
in the happiest condition, for the reason that too
many cultivators treat them more as stove plants
than green-house subjects. This system never fails
to produce a lax growth and sickly yellowish-green
foliage ; but give them a situation in the green-house
where they are not overcrowded, free ventilation,
and full exposure to the light, and Croweas will
grow into handsome specimens, which in due time
will contribute their share to the beauty of the
garden.

The soil should consist of good peat and light
loam, in the proportion of three of the former to
one of the latter, with a liberal addition of sand;
drain well, and water carefully. To form good
bushy and shapely specimens, the points of the
shoots should be frequently stopped and any gross
shoot cut quite out, or the symmetry of the plant
will be spoiled. This stopping, however, should not
be carried to excess, or the points with the flowers
will also be destroyed.

C. elliptica.—Leaves simple, ovate, and dotted,dark
green. The flowers are produced in whorls of five,
star-shaped, and beautiful bright pink in colour.
June to end of autumn.

C. latifolia.—_Leaves narrowly ovate, and bright
green, like all the family prettily dotted on the upper
side ; flowers purple. Summer to end of autumn.

C. saligna (the Willow-leaved Crowea) has bright
pink flowers, produced all through the summer and
autumn months.

Daphne.—A widely-distributed family'of plants,
most of which are distinguished for the delicate
fragrance their flowers emit. It is rather remarkable
that, although the various species are distributed
over most of the temperate and tropical parts of the
world, none have been found in Africa. Daphnes
will thrive and flower well under similar treat-
ment to, and in the company of, Camellias; indeed,
the largest and best we have seen have always been
growing with them. When established they pro-
duce an enormous quantity of flowers.

These plants thrive best in soil composed of two
parts good turfy loam, one part fibrous but not
spongy peat, and one part sharp sand. The pots must
be well drained, and a liberal supply of water given
during the growing season. These plants are usually
slow-growing, and are generally grafted upon other
stronger-growing kinds.

D. indica alba.—Leaves oblong lanceolate, smooth,
and bright shining green ; racemes terminal, many-

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 65

flowered, white, and deliciously fragrant. Winter
and early spring months. . China.

D. indica rubra.—A more robust grower than thé
preceding, but in other respects it is similar to it;
the heads of flower are reddish-pink on the outside
instead of pure white; they are very fragrant. It
blooms during the winter and early spring months.
China.

Dillwynia.—This genus contains many hand-
some species; they are Pea-flowered plants, and re-
quire about the same treatment as Chorozemas. They
bloom during spring and early summer, and continue
in full beauty for a considerable time. All are natives
of Australia.

D. ericefolia.—Flowers yellow, in short racemes
or clusters; frequently found in collections under
the name of D. floribunda. 1794.

D. parvifolia—Flowers borne in terminal clus-

ters, pale yellow, stained with red at the baso.

“1800.
D. pungens.—Flowers bright yellow. 1825.
D. sanguinea.—F lowers deep red and yellow.
D. scabra—aA fine species, producing terminal
corymbs of bright red flowers. 1850.
D. speciosa.—Flowers yellow and crimson.
D. splendens.—F lowers orange and red.

1838.

Dracophyllum.—Nearly related to Epacris;
the various members are distributed throughout New
Zealand, New Caledonia, and Australia. The solitary
species we quote here is a handsome and very de-
sirable green-house shrub; it is a slender-stemmed
and somewhat straggling-growing plant, and is seen
to best advantage when trained upon a trellis. It
should be potted in a compost of nearly all peat and
sand, but a small portion of light loam added will
be found advantageous; in potting, press the
mould down very firm, as the plant will not touch
root in loose soil. Cuttings root tolerably free
inserted in sandy soil and placed under a bell-
glass.

D. gracile—Leaves small, subulate, dark green ;
stems slender, the points bearing « compact head of
snow-white flowers; these are produced about the
month of May, and last a month or six weeks in full
beauty, Australia.

Dryandra.—A genus of Proteacee containing
many species, the majority of which are more to be
admired for the beauty of their leaves than their
flowers. These, like many other Proteaceous plants,
have not found so much favour of late years in the
horticultural world as they did in the earlier part of
the present century, but they swell deserve the atten-

‘tion of those having large collections, as they afford

a-beautiful contrast of. foliage, which.is particularly
delightful during winter when there .is a scarcity ot
flowers to divert the.eye. The genus commemorates
the services of Dr..Dryander, a celebrated botanist
and librarian to Sir Joseph Banks. They are nearly
allied to, and require the same treatment as, Banksia.
All are natives of the south and south-western parts
of Australia. . 7 Mens '

D. armata.—A small-growing shrub with deeply
pinnatifid leaves, which are about three inches long,
with sharp-pointed triangular lobes, dark .green ;
flowers yellow, not conspicuous.

Dz aretcides.—A pretty little species, seldom ex-
ceeding two or three feet in height; leaves three. to
four inches long, pinnatifid, divided almost to the
base ;-lobes linear, deep green above, clothed witha
white silky tomentum beneath; flowers yellow,
small,

D. nervosa.—A dwarf plant, with deeply pin-
natifid leaves, segments linear, lanceolate, some-
times inclining to falcate, deep green above,
reddish-brown beneath, where the veins are very
prominent.

D. nivea.—One of the most elegant members of
this family, seldom exceeding one or two feet in
height; leaves densely set, three to six inches long,
linear and pinnatifid, divided into small triangular
segments ; they are dark green, but the under surface
is of a uniform pure white, which renders it very
attractive.

D. plumosa.— Whole plant very elegant and
feathery ; leaves six to eight inches long, pinnatifid,
with obtuse triangular lobes, deep green above,
white beneath.

D. seneciifolia.—A dense compact species, some
three feet in height when mature ; leaves about three
inches in length, linear in outline, and divided into
narrow segments, which are dark green above, but
white beneath.

Eccremocarpus.—A small family of climbing
plants belonging to the Bignoniacee, natives of the
cooler parts of Chili and Peru, and although suffi-
ciently hardy to grow in the open air in this country
during the summer months, they must nevertheless
be looked upon as green-house plants, as under such
treatment their beauties are displayed to the greatest
advantage.

The requirements of these plants are very few, and
their management very simple, as they will grow in
almost any soil. When grown as border plants
Eccremocarpus are usually treated as annuals, and
raised from seed every year, the best time for sowing
being about the middle of February or beginning of

_March, but when grown from cuttings they flower

both earlier and more profusely.

56 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

E. longiflorus —A handsome plant with tripinnate
leaves, the segments being oval and entire; raceme
drooping, bearing three to four long tubular flowers ;
calyx large, bright red; tube orange-yellow tipped
with green. Summer months. Peru.

E. scaber—known in some collections by the
name of Calampelis scabra—is a very ornamental plant,
attaining a height of about twelve feet; leaves
bipinnate, segments
somewhat cordate,
toothed at the
edges, bright green;
flowers tubular,
orange and scarlet,
very showy. Sum-
mer months. Chili.

Eutaxia. — A
small family of Pea-
flowered plants
nearly allied to
Pultenea and Dill-
wynia, but, inde-
pendent of the
slight differences in
the formation of
their flowers, they
may at once be dis-
tinguished from
them by their op-
posite leaves. All
are natives of
Australia. The soil
and general treat-
ment are the same
as for Chorozema;
doing best in a mix-
ture of about two
parts peat, one of
sharp sand, and one
of loam. Like those
also, they are
chiefly propagated
by cuttings, and require careful pruning back as
soon as the flowering season is over. If these points
are attended to, no difficulty will be found in their
cultivation.

E. myrtifoliaa—A shrubby plant with slender
stems; leaves somewhat Myrtle-like; flowers yel-
low, situated in the axils of the leaves, in pairs, and
producing long racemes of bloom which are very
effective. Spring and early summer.

E. pungens.—A slender-growing plant, with nar-
row verticillate sharp-pointed leaves; flowers bright
orange and yellow, crowded into dense terminal
corymbs, Spring and early summer,

DRYANDRA ARCTOIDES,

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

By Wii1tam EaRrey.

Salsafy (Tragopogon porrifolius). French, Salsifis ;
German, Hafer-Wurzel ; Italian, Scorzonera bianca ;
Spanish, Astra vegetal.—This plant is a hardy peren-
nial, and a native of England, sometimes called
“Oyster plant,” as the Spanish name shows. The
roots are long and
tapering when well
grown, of a white,
fleshy nature, al-
though, as the re-
sult of indifferent
culture in rich soil,
it is often produced
as a mere bundle vf
small roots, knotted
together, and is
then little short of
useless for culinary
purposes.

To grow the root
well a light mellow
soil should always
be chosen, at least
ten inches deep.
When preparing
such soil for the re-
ception of the seed,
so treat it, either by
means of shallow
trenching or very
deep digging, as to
place a layer of
good manure at a
depth of at least
eight inches below
the surface. This
can be easily done
‘by having a very
open trench in pro-'
cess of deep dig.
ging, and placing the manure at the bottom of each
trench as the work proceeds.

Seeds should be sown in drill-rows during the
month of April or May, such drills to be drawn
moderately shallow, and about nine inches asunder.
Rake the seeds in neatly by drawing the rake trans-
versely across the rows. During the month of June,
when the plants have attained to three or four inches
in height, thin the rows out, so that five or six
inches space exist between each plant. Occasional
deep hoeings are alone requisite during the remain-
der of the summer. The crop is generally sufficiently
advanced for drawing, commencing during the month

THE KITCHEN GARDEN, 57

of August, such a quantity only being drawn as are
required for use each time. The plant, being so
thoroughly hardy, will be best left in the open ground
throughout the winter.

The young spring-formed shoots are used as a
green vegetable. Cut them off so soon as they attain
to sufficient size, and before seed-stalks are formed,
after which the plants are useless, and should be re-
moved to the rubbish-heap.

Scorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica). French,
Scorzonére ; German, Scorzoner ; Italian, Scorzonera.
—This plant, known also as “ Viper’s Grass,” is a
hardy perennial, a native of several distinct parts
of Southern Europe. The
roots are pure white with-
in, the rind or coating of a
black colour, some of the
points of the extreme roots
being enlarged, or tapering,
though the general dia-
meter is the same through-
out. Owing to this pecu-
liarity it has received the
name of Viper’s Grass, as
the roots alone are supposed
to resemble that reptile.

It thrives best in a deep
sandy soil, having manure
placed at the depth of ten
or twelve inches below the
surface of the ground
only. Sow the seed upon
ground so prepared in
drills about one and a
half inches deep, and twelve inches between the
rows, early in the month of April. So soon as the
plants are large enough, thin them out to six or seven
inches apart in the rows, keeping them well and
deeply hoed during the whole summer subsequently.
The roots are generally large enough for use early in
the month of September. Such as remain in the
ground until the month of December, take up, and
store away for use in the same manner as carrots are
stored for winter. This rootis often found to be un-
duly bitter when cooked; to neutralise this, scrape
off the outer rind, and place them in cold water for
an hour or two before cooking.

Sea-kale (Crambe maritima). French, Crambe
maritime; German, Seekohl, Meerkohl ; Spanish,
Breton de Mar ; Italian, Crambo.—This is a hardy
British perennial, found in many parts of the country,
on the shores around our sea-coast. It is generally
‘cultivated for the use of its young shoots in « per-
fectly blanched state, and it is a singular fact that it

SEA-KALE.

has been found and collected for use in such blanched
state by the inhabitants resident near our western
shores, from a time anterior to any history we possess
as to the origin of the practice. Buried beneath the
sand blown upon its dormant roots during winter,
it pushes up through such sand in the early spring, at
which time the inhabitants referred to watch for its
advent, and collect the blanched shoots so formed.

Its successful culture as a permanent crop depends
greatly upon the proper preparation of the bed where-
in it is to be grown, the site it occupies, and such
perfect drainage as insures to the root-base immunity
from excessive moisture during the winter months.

The best site for it isa fully-exposed one, faang
the south, and if with pro-
tection from easterly and
north - easterly winds so
much the better. The soil
should be trenched to a
depth of at least two feet
or more, preparatory for
seed-sowing or root-plant-
ing, both being employed
more or less, as may be
most convenient.

An inhabitant of the
sea-shores, it delights in a
sandy soil. Where, there-
fore, sea-sand can be pro-
cured it should be used
abundantly in forming the
bed. And it is well to ob-
serve that a bed, well made
and planted, will continue
to give excellent crops for
eight and even twelve years. The writer has, indeed,
maintained a bed, with its original plants, in full
bearing for fourteen years, even though he forced the
plants upon this bed by the aid of fermenting mate-
rials each year during that period.

Where sea-sand is not obtainable the existing
soil must be treated more or less in accordance with
its native lightness or tenacity, as the case may
happen to be. Very light soils resting on gravel, or
a porous subsoil, will certainly be benefited by the
addition of stiff soil to it, and abundant manure
buried at the bottom of each trench, and in successive
strata, though intermixed with the soil as much as
possible throughout. Such soils, even when they
have been prepared thus far, being naturally poor
and light, should also have a good dressing of decayed
manure spread over the surface, and forked in, even
after the trenching work has been finished.

Heavy, tenacious soils will be benefited by the
addition of road-scrapings, any kind of sand ob-
tained locally, and old dry mortar rubbish, along

with manure in plenty. .Especially is it necessary,
in connection with these latter, to place sandy mate-
rial, old mortar rubbish, or such lightening material,
near to the surface, so that the plants are more. or
less embedded in it, If this be not done, and the
“stools,” with their crowns, lie with an excess of
moisture enveloping them throughout the winter,
they are liable to canker and its attendant decay, one
of the greatest enemies the plant is subject to.

Sea-kale is propagated both by means of seeds and
division of the growing roots. To raise it from
seeds, select a warm aspect and soil similar to that
recommended. As it is usual, and often most conve-
nient, to sow nursery beds whereon plants are to be
grown for ultimate transplanting on to the more per-
manent bed, the most convenient plan to follow is to
sow in drill-rows, for which purpose a generous and
free soil will generally suffice without such an amount
of preparation as is needful for permanent beds.
Draw shallow drill-rows with the corner of the hoe
one foot apart, and drop the seeds, which are large,
therein in such manner as to insure germination and
plant-formation at distances of not more than eight
inches apart. The first week in the month of April
is the best date to do so. So soon as the young
piants are well through the soil, hoe carefully and
well between them, doing so periodically through-
out the summer months, so as to insure the soil being
loose and free around them. Liquid manure given
to them during the month of July is a great aid to
free and fine growth. These young plants, having
remained in the ground through the winter months,
may be carefully taken up in the spring, and trans-
ferred into permanent plantations, at distances apart,
&c., in all ways similar to that recommended below
for bed-formation by means of direct seed-sowing.
Or they may be permitted to remain in the rows to
perfect a second summer’s growth, aided by a nice
dressing of decomposed manure, occasional waterings
of liquid manure, deep hoeings, &. By these means
they form nice crowns for forcing during the follow-
ing winter, and should be taken up carefully, and
transferred to such proper places to insure this as are
recommended below.

To form permanent plantations by means of direct
seed-sowing, the site intended for permanent planta-
tion, having the soil trenched and prepared as re-
commended, should be carefully levelled and raked
over towards the end of the month of March. During
the first week in April mark out the whole space into
rows two feet asunder. Stretch the line along the
first row, and sow, at distances of two fect apart in
the rows, three pairs of seeds. These must be in-
serted at a uniform depth of two inches, in pairs
about seven inches apart, at angles with each other.
Again stretch the line across the ground for the

58 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

second row, sowing in-precisely the same way as-for
the former triple pairs of seeds, but in such manner
that the sowings in this row be sown at angles with
the sowings in the previous one. The third row,
being at angles with this latter, will occupy a similar
place transversely to what the first-sown row does.
By continuing thus the whole bed will be furnished
with separate “stools,” at equal distances apart
throughout, giving to all the- greatest possible
amount of space whereon to make repeated per-
manent summer growths. :

_As, however, ‘‘Sea-kale pots” vary in dimensions
in different places, and sowing seeds in triples, as ad-
vised, is intended to form as many crowns as possible,
to place each pot over for forcing and for blanching,
it may be convenient to take the measurements of the
pots on hand, and to sow the seeds at angles apart in
such manner as to insure that the plants, when grown
in the future, can be properly covered by them, which
may vary the measurement given.

‘When the young plants have formed, remove each
duplicate one in all instances where more than one
seed has germinated, giving all attention during the
following summers in regard to hoeing, neatly forking
the surface of the ground over during the following
spring, &c.

Propagation by means of division of the roots, a
method often followed by growers for market who
are anxious to make the most of things, is very
simple. When the main roots are dug up for forcing,
a system generally followed by them also, every por-
tion of broken root, from the size of dry straight-
stick maccaroni upwards, is preserved for this pur-
pose. These are cut into uniform lengths of about
five inches, and dibbled, or laid in drill-rows chopped
out for them, with the thick ends just level with
the surface of the soil, in such manner that they form
buds, grow, and ultimately, after a summer or two,
perfect crowns, which in turn are used for forcing.

To make a plantation which shall give quicker re-
sults than by means of seed-sowing at angles, as
advised above, or by waiting to grow and perfect
the needful crowns for so doing in the home gar-
den, it is only necessary to prepare the bed, as ad-
vised, during the winter months, and to purchase a
/hundred or two crowns about the month of F ebruary

for planting therein. These are always obtainable

from seedsmen, and at a very reasonable rate, and are
far more economical than seed-buying, sowing, and
waiting the result.

Preparing Sea-kale for use, whether this consist
of forcing, blanching, or retarding, is very simple,
though generally expressed under the term “forcing”
only. The original practice was to grow the plants

in beds or plantations, as recommended above, to then

Place pots over the crowns, covering them with stable

THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 59

litter, or fallen tree-leaves, &c.; such materials in
process of ferment giving heat for the earlier supply
about Christmas, bringing it on gradually about the
months of March and April without fermentation,
and, in the same way, retarding it during the month
of May. To insure the latter, however, it is only
necessary to place such cold materials over it before
signs of growth occur.

The all-important considerations connected with
this process are as follows :—For early forcing, to
produce a supply during the month of December, a
somewhat great heat will be requisite. ‘To insure
this with safety, the materials should be first thrown
up into a conical heap, where they will, in process of
fermentation, become very hot. Meantime, the sur-
face of the bed should be neatly raked over, and
small mounds of sandy materials placed over the ma-
terials ; finely-sifted ashes will do, where the former
does not exist. The object of this is to protect the
more tender parts of the crowns from injury by any
excessive heat or steam which arises. Then the
pots must be fixed firmly upon the soil, so as to pre-
clude steam from ingress beneath them over the
crowns, placing the fermenting materials over as
many of the pots as are likely to be needed in a state
of production at one and the same time. Such
materials should be about two feet in height during
moderately temperate weather, and three feet high
during very severe frost and snow-weather. It
should not be of greater width at any one time than
is requisite to cover over three rows of crowns, con-
sidering always that the outside pots within the ma-
terial should have several inches against them on the
outer sides. Place a test-stick or two centrally down
to the bottom of the material, and should signs
of heat beyond 80° to 85° exist in the mass, removea
few forkfuls from the centre, to neutralise such ex-
ceas, returning such as need be subsequently to renew
and maintain the heat when it begins to wane.

The maximum heat recommended is only necessary
when forcing is undertaken during the months of
November, December, and early in January. Ina
week or ten days the crowns will start into growth.
So soon as this is observed reduce the heat to a
maximum of 60°, maintaining it as nearly as possible
at this uniformly. All fluctuations of temperature
cause the produce to be tough and stringy. As cut-
ting advances, remove the pots, and place them upon
other crowns in advance, placing the fermenting
material also thereon, with a little fresh added as
required, to maintain the necessary heat. As the
season advances, and the outer temperature rises, the
natural season of growth of the crowns being nearer,
less and less heat will be requisite, until during the
months of April and May probably no heat will be
requisite at all to insure excellent produce.

:

_ The other plan, most generally employed by
growers for market, as well as many others, is to dig
the grown and prepared roots up, shorten their ex-
tremities, and bury them in soil or other material,
either in 4 Mushroom-house or other warm place,
according to the season; the only necessity being
the maintenance of such heat as previously suggested,
a nice supply of latent moisture around them, with
perfect exclusion of both light and air. The latter is
most important, any departure therefrom producing
red or green growth, in lieu of the necessary blanched
and perfectly white state.

‘When gathering the crop, cut each growth off with
a portion of the hard root-rhizome attached; this
will not only assist in keeping it fresh until used, but
enable its being pruned or trimmed with a better
base for the culinary purpose. When the crop is all
gathered remove the pots and materials, throwing a
little light litter over the wounded crowns to protect
them until about the first week in the month of May.
This also should then be removed; all pieces of
crowns which are above the ground-level cut down
to such a level, and a little manure be placed be-
tween the rows and just pricked in. In other words,
deep digging must not be resorted to, as the roots
generally traverse the ground horizontally, and would
by such a practice be cut in twain and injured.

One other important matter must be noticed. On
no account must any of the plants at any stage
be permitted to push up flower-stems. Immediately
these are observed—and they should be periodically
sought for—it is necessary to cut them out at the
ground-line. Where these are permitted to form, the
plant becomes blind as regards future produce, no
young crowns being capable of forming; the result,
a loss of the proper supply.

Particulars regarding varieties cannot be much
depended upon in connection with this crop. There
exists, however, a variety which, for convenience, we
will name White variety, the young leaves, and old,
upon which have no trace of that pink margining so
characteristic of the plant. When forced, this white
varicty is of purer white, such pink traces being
entirely absent; for which reason it were well to
seed and otherwise increase such. To secure seeds,
permit the first growth upon any cluster of plants to
grow, when they will be formed abundantly. The
seeds are invariably encased in a large outer case.
Such case must not be removed; all seeds should be
sown, therefore, entire as grown.

Dwellers in towns, possessing no gardens whatever,
may, by purchasing two-year-old roots by the hun-
dred or more, readily grow the crop in boxes or bins,
in their cellars, or other dark, airless places, thereby
producing annual crops of an expensive vegetable,
cheaply.

60 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

, Bpinach (Spinacia oleracea). French, Epinard ;
German, Spinat ; Spanish, Espinaca ; Italian, Spinact.
—There exist several distinct types of Spinach or
“ Spinage,” as written by old authors, a name de-
rived from the peculiar prickly seeds. The present
form, surnamed oleracea, or pot-herb, is, however,
that most generally grown and, consequently, most
popular. It is a hardy annual, sufficiently hardy, in
fact, by a proper system of seed-sowing and culture
to withstand the inclemency of British winters. Its
original home is not known. It has, however, been
cultivated in this country more than three centuries.
The species under consideration consists of two dis-
tinct varieties, distinguishable by having a dissimi-
larity both in the form of their leaves and seeds.
One, possessing round or heart-shaped leaves, has
also round seeds; the other, oblong triangular-
leaved, having prickly seeds. In other words, the
remarkable fact exists that the leaves and seeds of the
plant possess identical characteristics. The harsh or
severer development of the leaves in the prickly-
seeded variety goes even further than this. It has
proved itself less profitable as a summer variety, is
the more hardy of the two, and has, therefore, been
termed the “ winter variety,” being that ‘invariably
sown in the autumn for the winter and earliest spring
crop.

In the matter of culture, as the only real merit
these peculiar comestibles can possess consists of ex-
treme freedom of growth and its attendant succulency
of leaf, it is impossible to accord them too generous
treatment. Yet to insure this a really deeply-prepared.
soil is not always essential, beyond the consideration
that the richer the soil is deep down below, so
much greater is its capacity to retain latent mois-
ture in uniform abundance, by which the whole is
favourably influenced, to say nothing of the fact that
the roots will work down in search of food during
arid- weather periods, where it exists, though this
plant is but of shallow root-formation. A free
highly-enriched soil is essential. As the crop is of
very quick growth and of short duration, during
summer-time, it is well to exceptionally enrich the
ground for it, even upon consideration that a suc-
ceeding crop may occupy the ground and benefit
thereby.

The practice which gains precedence consists in
growing the crop in drill-rows. This is not the best
plan to follow, as it invariably leads to the plants
being too thickly grown together; an error, this,
which cannot be too severely condemned, and owing
to which good produce is rarely obtainable. It
should be quite needless to remark here the simple
fact that to grow a plant well, to insure fine large
leaves, it should grow singly; yet all but invariably
is Spinach grown so thickly as to entirely controvert

such a fact. It is thereby hastened off to seed,
wretchedly indifferent seed-stalk produce being the
result. Wherever drill-rows ‘are sown, therefore,
seed should be sown very thinly, thinning the young
plants out so soon as they have each two pairs of
leaves, to four or five inches apart. Better is it,
however, to sow broadcast upon rich soil, and to sub-
sequently hoe out the plants to distances of about
six inches apart, treating them in a similar way to
what broadcast-sown turnips are treated. For the
summer crops the first sowing should be made during
such mild weather as may prevail about the first
week in February; for this first sowing, a sheltered
sunny situation. So soon as this sowing is up and
thinned out, make another sowing, continuing after
the month of March has arrived to make small
sowings once a fortnight, according to the demand,
until July, at which time it is not desirable to make
any more until the winter crops are sown, as the
plant succeeds indifferently only during the dry
months of August and September. _

About August lst prepare a liberal space for the
winter crop, choosing particularly for it adry quarter
of the garden, exposed and open to such winter sun-
shine as is experienced. Though even this is not all;
the nominal or cloud-screened light of the sun even
at such a season exerts its influence beneficially. To
save the young plants from excessive ground-moisture
during the winter months, a moderate quantity only
of manure should be employed. A few wheelbarrow-
loads of old mortar, rubbish, &c., could also be bene-
ficially dug into the ground upon which it is to be
sown. For convenience of hoeing, gathering the
crop, &c., drill-row sowing will at this season be pre-
ferable. Draw shallow drills across the space to be
sown, ten inches asunder, and make sowings as near
to August 5th and August 11th as possible. Make
the larger sowing at the latter date. When the young
plants are large enough, thin them out to five inches
apart in the rows. Hoe amongst the crop periodically
at fine weather intervals; such a process is of im-
mense aid. Should any make a good growth, con-
tinue to pick for use in accordance. This prac-
tice, whilst it furnishes supplies, also checks too

- robust growth, and assures in advance the hardiness

of the crop for severe weather, should it follow.

For the summer crop the most common practice
is to sow rows of Spinach between the rows of
Peas. Such space can only be occupied by a quick-
growing and yielding crop, and as Spinach is such,
the practice is good from an economical point of
view. It is as important in this case as in all others
to well thin out the young plants. or the produce
will be of a very low order. :

Under somewhat the same name we have the
following :—

FERNS. 61

Spinach, Green Mountain or Orach
(Atriplex hortensis), French, Aroche ; German, Mel-
dekraut ; Italian, Atrepice.— We possess herein a
singular plant asa hardy annual, and indigenous in
Tartary. It is a robust plant, growing rapidly to
some feet in height, the leaves of which are gathered
and used in the same manner as those of Spinacia
oleracea. This variety is more esteemed on the Con-
tinent than it has been hitherto in this country.
{t delights in a deep, rich, and somewhat moist soil,
fully exposed
to sun and at ae
air. It may “ao
be cultivated
both in rows
and by broad-
cast sowings.
A single row
about ten
yards long
will afford
a moderate
supply.
Seeds should
be sown dur-
ing the
month of
August, to
insure a spring and summer
supply up to the beginning of
the month of July. Thin the
plants out from this sowing to
about six inches apart only, to
insure a sufficient quantity in
the spring, following the exi-
gencies of winter, attention in
the matter of hoeing, &c., being
the only further aid needed to
secure the crop. For the main
summer supply, similar sowings should be made
during the months of April and May, for which
an additional supply of manure should be dug
into the ground. The young plents which result
from these sowings should be thinned out to nine
or ten inches apart in the row. When the plants
are well grown they give a successional supply
of leaves as they progress in height, which only
need to be picked off to be ready for use. As
the plant tends to run very rapidly to seed
in hot weather if neglected, and is only worth
eating when the leaves are picked young and
tender, it is very essential that the regular supply
provided be regularly drawn upon and kept
down, Disappointment will follow any want of
this precaution to keep a succession of young
leaves.

ALSOPHILA EXCELSA.

FERNS.

By James Britten, F.L.S.

The Alsophilas.—tIn point of number of species
the genus Alsophila is the most important of the
genera of Polypodiaceous Ferns, which are included
in the tribe Cyathee. It stands alone, too, in that
tribe, in the absence of any involucre to the sori.
The Alsophilas have the general habit and aspect of
the Cyatheas and Hemitelias, but both these genera
are readily
distinguished
from Also-
phila by the
distinct in-
volucre with
which the
sori are fur-
nished. They
are dis-
tributed
principally
throughout
the warmer
regions of
both hemi-
spheres, and
nearly a hun-
dred species are described in the

2 “Synopsis Filicum.” A goodly
ep number of names, not given in
aly the work just mentioned, occur

in nurserymen’s catalogues, but

“ch probably the great majority of

these would, if studied by any
competent authority, be referred
to species previously described
and cultivated under their cor-
rect appellations. From a garden
point of view a selection of half a score species is
sufficient for all practical purposes; indeed, it is
only in large establishments that space enough
can be spared to allow even that number of indi-
viduals to develop and exhibit themselves in all
their beauty. The largest collection of Tree-ferns
existing in this country is to be seen in the Royal
Gardens, Kew, anda visit to that famous institution
is necessary to enable any untravelled gardener to
form anything like an approximate idea of the
splendid appearance presented by full-grown speci-
mens in their native countries. Wallace, in his
“Malay Archipelago,” thus speaks of these beautiful
plants in their tropical homes :—“ But the greatest
novelty and most striking feature to my eyes were
the Tree-ferns, which, after seven years spent in the
tropics, I now saw in perfection for the first time,

62 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

All I had hitherto met with seemed slender species,
not more than twelve feet high, and they gave not
the least idea of the supreme beauty of trees bearing
their elegant heads of fronds more than thirty feet
in the air. There is nothing in tropical vegetation
so perfectly beautiful.”

STOVE KINDS.

’ A, armata 18 one of the commonest species in
cultivation, and in a wild state is found through-
out-the whole of tropical America. The large,
firm - textured, tripinnatifid or tripinnate fronds,
have densely pilose rachises and ribs, not scaly,
as in some of its allies. A. atrovirens, from
South Brazil, has tripinnatifid, somewhat leathery
fronds, with glabrous, smooth or warted, dull
straw-coloured rachises, both surfaces being green,
glabrous, and without scales. 4. ferox has tripin-
nate fronds, with brownish straw-coloured rachises,
the main ones often covered with conspicuous, hard,
but rather small excrescences; the texture is thin,
not leathery, and both surfaces are bright green in
colour, the ribs being slightly hairy. This species is
spread through the whole of tropical America. A.
aspera, from the West Indies, has the stipes and
rachises armed with strong prickles, which impart a
distinct aspect to the plant; the leathery fronds are
bipinnate. -4. pruinata is quite unarmed (that is to
say, it does not possess either the hard excrescences
of A. ferox or the prickles of A. aspera); the stipe
is densely woolly at the base, and the leathery, dis-
tinctly glaucous frond is either twice or thrice
pinnate. This extends from the West Indies and
tropical America to Chili and Juan Fernandez. A.
sagittifolia, a comparatively recent introduction from
Trinidad, has rigid leathery fronds, four to six feet
long, green and glabrous on both surfaces, the under
side bearing, however, a few broad white scales on
the ribs; the rachises are straw-coloured and
warted, with a few pale-coloured adpressed scales
beneath. A. Tenitis is a Brazilian species, with
large, bipinnate, rather firm-textured fronds, with
distant glabrous stalked acuminate pinn ules.

GREEN-HOUSE KINDS.

A, Australis, a native of Tasmania and Australia,
has large fronds, deep green above and somewhat
glaucous beneath ; the stipe measures about a foot and
a half in length, and is clothed with very long, firm,
subulate scales; the main rachises, which, like the
stipes, are straw-coloured, are also armed with short,
hard, prickle-like excrescences. This species was met
with in profusion by Backhouse in Tasmania. That
author describes it as having stems of all degrees of
elevation, up to twenty-five or thirty feet, some of
them at the lower part as stout as a man’s body ; the

whole length clothed with the bases of old leaves,
which were rough, like the stems of raspberries,
closely tiled over each other, and pointing upwards,
Some of the larger fronds were thirteen feet long,
making the diameter of the crest twenty-six feet.
The New Zealand A. Colensoi is a beautiful species,
of smaller stature than many of its allies, and there-
fore more. suitable for general cultivation. The
small stem rarely exceeds four or five feet in height,
and the bases of the short, unarmed stipes are
densely clothed with silvery subulate scales an inch
in length, and the rest of the stipes, the rachises
and ribs, covered with lesser dark brown ones, A
New Zealand correspondent of The Garden thus
wrote of A. Colensoi a few years ago :—* This is a
sub-arboreous fern of great beauty. Though the
fronds, which are of a soft and pleasing shade of
green, arc of « very large size, some three feet to
four feet long, and ten inches to twenty inches
broad, yet the trunk is rarely of any size, so that it
is a fern particularly suited for cultivation in low
fern-houses. The specimen which I came upon, on
the edge of the beech-hollow, was a very luxuriant
one, and yet the trunk was not afoot high. From
its name, the <Alsophila ought to be a ‘lover of
groves,’ yet, though I came across numerous speci-
mens, I observed they were all inthe open. It
seems to delight on the shady slope of an unwooded
hill, and it grows by preference in the moist beds of
the small runnels that drain such slopes. This fern
cannot be too strongly recommended for pot-culture.
It is a free-growing species, possessing no delicacy,
except of tint, but of a bold outline, both of frond
and plant, and very soft in the texture.” A. Cooperi,
from Queensland and New South Wales, is tho-
roughly distinct specifically from the larger-growing
A. excelsa, under which it was until recently placed
as a variety. It has bright green, nearly naked,
tripinnate fronds, with straw-coloured, warted
rachises. The Norfolk Island .4. excedsa is probably
the tallest grower of all the Adsophilas ; it is stated
by Captain King to attain a height of eighty feet.
A trunk cut down by Allan Cunningham measured
fifty-seven feet, without the fronds. The late Mr.
James Backhouse, writing of this species, says :—
“The fronds are from seven to twelve feet long, and
are produced in such quantity as to make this noblo
fern excel the princely Palm-tree in beauty. It
usually has its root near the course of some main -
stream, but as its trunk rises to fifty feet in height,
and its top does not affect the shade, like many of
its congeners, it forms a striking. object in the land-
scape.” The “heart,” or so-called “ cabbage,” at
the extremity of the trunk in this and some other
species, affords a coarse kind of food, which is used
by the natives as an article of diet. In substance it

FERNS. sods 63°

_. is' like a Swedish: Turnip; but is too astringent in
taste to be agreeable, and is not much altered by
cooking.

and main rachis being muricate, or covered with
small raised points.

Cultivation.—All the Alsophilas grow well in a
strong soil, a good fibry loam being best suited
to them. They can be readily grown to a consider-

able size in even small-sized pots, that is to say,

small in comparison with those required for many
other large- growing ferns. In case the fronds
become pale-coloured, and the plant gets out of
health for lack of nutrition, a top-dressing of per-
fectly fresh cow-manure is of great value; the stems,
too, under such circumstances, should be syringed
twice a week with weak liquid-manure water.
Failures in the cultivation of these and other Tree-
ferns are often to be attributed to neglect in keeping
the stems moist, many of the species depending
principally on the adventitious roots which clothe
their trunks. A thoroughly moist atmosphere
throughout the year is essential to the well-
being of the Alsophilas; under cultivation, too,
shading is as a rule necessary. The temperature
during summer should not descend below 60°
Fahrenheit for the stove species, and may rise to
80°. During the period of growth, and particularly
when the crown of young fronds is being developed,
the houses should be kept close, cold draughts of dry
air turning the tender fronds black. The green-
house species require practically the same treatment
as those of the stove, with the exception of the lower
temperature, in which the more tropical ones would
not thrive.

Actiniopteris.—The genus <Actiniopteris con-
tains but a single species, which is at once recog-
nisable from all the other genera belonging to the
tribe Asplenie by its flabellate habit, like the Fan
Palm “(Chamerops) in miniature. A. radiata has
detisely-tufted stipes, two to six inches long, the
fan-shaped frond being an inch to an inch and a
half deep, composed of numerous dichotomous
segments, which are rush-like in texture, not more
than one-twenty-fourth of an inch broad, and the
segments of the fertile frond longer than those of
the barren one. The variety Australis has fewer
segménts, which are longer, and more subulate at
the point; it is a larger, stronger-growing plant,
and more readily cultivated than the type. .

“A. radiata is found around the mouths of old
wells, and on walls and rocks, throughout India,
Ava, Ceylon, Arabia, Upper Egypt, Abyssinia, the
Mascarene Islands, Zambesi-land, Angola, &c.

Cultivation.—In a wild ‘state, this fern is accus-

The: leathery, bipinnate fronds are dark’
green above, and somewhat paler beneath, the stipes’

tomed to extreme drought for a portion of each
year, and the fronds dry'up, and the plants look
quite dead. The small crowns, however, will re.’
tain their vitality for a long time, and, if collected
during the dry season, can be Jonwatded by post,
without injury, to any part of the world. Under
cultivation, however, it is hazardous to try this
drying-off process, and the plants succeed well if
never allowed to die down at all. A mixture of
pieces of brick and lumps of fibry peat is all that is
needed, taking care to place the plants, after they
are potted, close to the glass, in the stove, where
plenty of light can be obtained. They must, how-
ever, be sheltered from the direct rays of the sun.
Plenty of atmospheric moisture is essential, and, if
carefully potted, the plants can hardly be over-
watered during the height of the growing season.
The variety Australis is an especially desirable plant,
of more robust constitution than the type.

The Anemias,— Anemia, often erroneously
written Aneimia, is a distinct and well-marked genus,
containing nearly thirty species, almost all of which
are confined to tropical America, The small cap-
sules are produced in great profusion, and form a
copiously-branched panicle, quite distinct from the
leafy part of the frond. Amongst the few species
mentioned below are representatives of the sections
—or, as some authors regard them, genera—Anemo-
dictyon, Coptophyllum, and Anemirhiza. We follow
the “Synopsis Filicum ” in treating these as belong-
ing to Anemia.

A, adiantifolia, which forms J. Smith’s genus,
Anemirhiza, is characterised by its elongated rhizome,
from which the stems arise in a single row. A. as-
plenifolia and A. carnifolia are simply forms of this
species, which is found in Cuba, Bahamas, and
Florida, and from Mexico to Bahia. A. collina has
firm erect stipes, densely clothed with fine ferru-
ginous spreading hairs; the almost leathery barren.
segments are sessile, six to twelve inches long by. two,
to three inches broad, with about twelve sessile pinns
on each side. .A. mandioccana, like the last-named,
a native of Brazil, has decidedly villose stipes six:
to twelve inches long, and oblong-lanceolate barren
segments a foot or more in length by from two to
four inches in breadth; there are twenty or more
close pairs of pinnz, and the rachises and surfaces,
are finely pilose. 4. millefolia, from South Brazil,
has hairy barren fronds, in shape and cutting much
resembling the leaf of our native Yarrow or Milfoil
(Achillea Millefolium). A, Phyllitidis has straw-
coloured stipes, six to eighteen inches long, and
simply pinnate, subcoriaceous, sessile, barren seg-
ments, four to twelve inches long by two to eight
inches broad; this is found from Cuba and Mexico

64 CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING.

to Peru and: South Brazil. Several varieties of this
species are in cultivation, the most distinct being
angustata and fravinifolia, A, tomentosa has strong
erect stipes, clothed with deciduous ferruginous
hairs, and ovate-deltoid bipinnate barren segments,
six to twelve inches in length by about half the
width ; in texture they are subcoriaceous, and, as
well as the rachises, are densely pilose.

Cultivation —The Anemias are readily raised from
spores, and rapidly form handsome little plants.
‘They succeed best in an intermediate temperature,
and require but little
pot-room. Strong,
well-drained loam
suits them best, and
they must have a
plentiful supply of -
water during the
growing season.

The Todeas.—
The genus Todea is
closely related to
Osmunda, the two
genera forming the
distinct sub - order
Osmundacee. It
differs from Os-
munda principally
in the sori being on
the back of the leafy
portion of the frond,
and not forming a
distinct panicle
made up of dense
thyrsoid _ clusters.
Only four species
are mown, and
these are almost
exclusively confined to temperate regions in the
Southern Hemisphere. The genus readily divides
itself into two very distinct sections, the one con-
taining but a single species with leathery fronds,
and the other three species with fronds of a pel-
lucid membranous texture. The latter are de-
servedly amongst the most popular of all the filmy
ferns,

T. barbara, from New Zealand, temperate Aus-
tralia, Van Diemen’s Land, and South Africa, has a
caudex which often assumes somewhat of an arbor-
escent character. Under favourable conditions, the
a rial roots form a huge mass not unlike those seen
in very old specimens of our native Royal Fern. In
the Temperate House at Kew there is a remarkablo
specimen, which, when imported many years ago,
weighed 14 cwt., and now, in all probability, is ‘not

ACTINIOPTERIS RADIATA,

far from a ton in weight. The fronds, which
measure three or four feet in length by about a foot
in breadth, are borne on stout, erect, perfectly naked
stipes, a foot or more in length. This grows freely
enough in any cool conservatory, if planted in a
damp spot amongst stones, &c., and freely supplied .
with water. It does not require shading from sun-
light, and will bear several degrees of frost without
the slightestinjury. It is readily raised from spores,
and the young plants are very-useful for ordinary
“furnishing”? purposes, being quickly raised and
not easily injured.
T. Fraseri, a rare
species from the
Blue Mountains in
Australia, has an
erect woody caudex,
and fine bipinnate
fronds, one to two
feet long by eight
to twelve inches in
breadth. 7. Wilkes-
iana ig a variety of
this species, with
larger fronds, the
deflexed lower
pinne being some-
what shorter than
the others, and the
rachises slightly
hairy ; it is a native
of Fiji and the New
Hebrides. TJ. hy-
menophylloides has
firm, erect, naked,
tufted stipes, six to
twelve inches long,
and tripinnatifid
fronds, one to two
feet long by eight to twelve inches broad; the
rachises are either naked or slightly tomentose ; this
species is confined to New Zealand. TZ. superba is a
truly magnificent fern, similar in many respects to
the last, but readily distinguished by its greater size,
its lanceolate fronds with deflexed lower pinna,
which become gradually smaller, and the ovate,
narrower, more numerous and denser pinne, with
often crisped pinnules. This species, like the last,
is also confined to New Zealand, whence large
numbers of the woody crowns are annually imported
to this country. :
Cultivation.—No special instructions are necessary
in the case of 7. barbara, which, by universal con-
sent, is looked upon as the true Todea. The three
last-named species, however, are frequently regarded
as belonging to a distinct genus, viz., Leptolepis, and

FERNS, 65

these require shade and shelter from direct sunlight
and dry currents of air, and unlimited atmospheric
moisture. No ferns are more easily grown if the
necessary conditions obtain, and none make more
beautiful objects. A house with a north aspect
seems to suit them best; at any rate, given such a
structure, they require far less attention than in the
ordinary green-house or conservatory. A mixture
of broken potsherds and sphagnum, with a Little
fibrous peat, from which all the finer portions have
been removed by beating, suits them admirably ;
even this, however, is not necessary, as we have seen

rienced no ill results. Nothing could exceed the
beauty of a house full of the species just named in
one of the leading London nurseries, as we saw it
a year or two ago. The cemented floor had a
raised rim round the under side of the staging,
and this was kept constantly filled with water; the
plants, too, were watered overhead daily during the
summer months. 7. hymenophylloides, and the last-
named species too, thrive in the open air with but
little care and attention in many parts of England.
There are sheltered nooks in many an out-door
fernery where both would succeed well enough, with

ToDEA SUPERBA.

plants thriving without potting material of any
kind. Imported plants have been wedged into pots
—of course, attended to in the matter of moisture,
atmospheric and otherwise—and in a short time
have clothed themselves with a mass of splendid
dark green plume-like fronds. Sometimes thrips
infest the delicate film-like fronds, and, unless these
are got rid of, the plants soon become unsightly.

The best way, and one which does not damage the -

tender fronds in the slightest degree, is to submerge
the entire plants for, say, twelve hours or more in
water, the same temperature as that of the structure
in which they grow.

We have seen 7. superba growing splendidly in
absolutely unheated houses, where, during severe
winters, the plants have been literally coated with
ice for days at a time, and yet they have expe-

29

a hand-glass or some similar contrivance to insure
constant atmospheric moisture.

The Acrostichums.—In the somewhat com-
prehensive sense in which the genus -Acrostichum is
understood by the authors of the “Synopsis Filicum,”
it contains above one hundred and seventy species,
and embraces no less than a dozen genera which,
by various other authorities, have been regarded as
distinct. Indeed, in the work just mentioned,
lerostichum includes the whole group of polypodia-
ceous ferns belonging to the tribe Acrostichee, with
the single exception of that remarkable and in-
teresting genus, Platyceriwm, the various species of
which are generally known in gardens as Stag’s-
horn Ferns.

The Acrostichums are widely distributed through-

66 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

out both hemispheres, confining themselves prin-
cipally to the tropics. They are readily recognised
by the sori not being restricted to the veins only,
but spread in a stratum over the under surface, and
sometimes, but more rarely, upon both surfaces of
the frond. Vcry wide divergences occur in size
and habit, as well as in the veining and general
character of the fronds. As it would be impossible
to find space to give even a very condensed descrip-
tion and account of a large number of species, only
the most distinct and desirable, from a purely garden
standpoint, are mentioned in these pages.

A. aureum has an erect caudex, and tufted, strong,
erect, glossy stipes, one to two feet in length, with
leathery fronds; two to six feet long by one to two
feet broad. This species is very widely spread over
the tropical and sub-tropical countries of both
hemispheres. In A. crinitwm, a native of the West
Indies and Mexico, the caudex is erect and woody,
and the stipes of the barren fronds are densely
clothed with long, slender, fibrillose, purplish-brown
scales, the broad-oblong, rather leathery frond
itself often measuring from twelve to eighteen
inches long by six to nine inches broad. The
entire edge is densely fringed, and both sides
scattered over with scales like those of the stem.
The fertile fronds are like the barren ones in form,
but are smaller in size, and have a longer stipe.
A, cuspidatum has a thick, woody rhizome, clothed
with dense, linear-pointed, nearly black scales;
the firm, erect stipes covered with deciduous,
adpressed, dark-coloured scales, measuring from six
to fifteen inches in length. The barren fronds are
leathery in texture, and are from one to two feet
long by three to four inches broad, the upper
surface beirig nearly naked, and the lower densely
matted with small, rusty-coloured, ciliated, brown
scales. ‘The fertile fronds are somewhat smaller
than the barren ones, the stipes being about the
same length in both. ‘This species is found in a
wild state from the West Indies to Peru. 4. gra-
minifolium, a recently introduced species from the
West Indies, has narrow, grassy fronds, and is one
of ‘the most distinct of the smaller-growing kinds.
In A. heteromorphum, from Columbia and Ecuador,
the small, wide-creeping, filiform rhizome is clothed
with small, brown, lance-shaped scales. The
slender, slightly scaly stipes are from one to three
inches long, and the barren fronds, of a thin but
firm texture, measure one and a half to two inches
in length by three-quarters to one inch in breadth,
both sides being scattered over with dark narrow
scales.
colour than the rest of the frond, give thig species
a distinctive character. The fertile fronds are
much smaller, and their stipes much longer.

_divisions of which the veins are pinnate,

The conspicuous raised veins, darker in |

A, latifolium, from Mexico and Cuba to Brazil and
Peru, has a thick, woody, often creeping rhizome,
clothed with crisped, lance-shaped, dark or light
brown scales. The firm, erect, slightly scaly or
naked stipe is from six to twelve inches long, and
the very leathery barren fronds measure from nine
to eighteen inches in length by two to four inches
in breadth; the fertile frond, except in being
considerably narrower than the barren one, other-
wise resembles it. .4. angustifolium, A. callefolium,
A. crassinerve, and A. conopodium are varieties of
this species.

A, osmundacewm, a large, strong-growing, hand-
some species from Tropical America, is the repre-
sentative of a section in which the barren fronds are
variously pinnatifid or pinnate, and in the ultimate
This has
a woody rambling rhizome, clothed with long narrow
scales ; the erect stype is scaly only at the base, and
the lower pinne of the tripinnate, dark green, some-
what leathery fronds are from one to two feet long
by from four to eight inches broad. D

A, peltatum is the representative of a small section
in which the venation is fan-shaped, and the fertile
fronds small, suborbicular, and uncut. It is an
excellent garden plant, easily grown in any damp
shaded stove, and especially suitable for a small fern-
case. The slender wide-creeping rhizome throws up
numerous slender scaly stipes, one to three inches
long, surmounted by repeatedly forked, somewhat
leathery, barren fronds, measuring from one to two
inches each way. ‘The fertile fronds, round and
quite uncut, measure about half an inch in diameter.
This is a native of Mexico, the West Indies, Peru,
and Brazil.

A. Prestoni is a recently introduced species from
Rio de Janeiro; it has a thick, short-creeping, woody
caudex, clothed with dense, brown, lance-shaped,
membranous scales; the moderately firm, lanceolate,
barren fronds are from one to one and a half feet
long by two inches broad, and are bordered by. a
dense persistent fringe of minute brown scales; the
fertile fronds are much smaller, with longer stems.
A. quercifolium, a native of Peninsular <ndia, Ceylon,
South China, and Cochin China, nas a stout wide-
creeping rhizome; the stipes of the barren fronds
are one or two inches in length, and are clothed with
soft, spreading, ferruginous hairs; the barren fronds
‘measure three to four inches in length by one anda
half to two inches in breadth. 4. simplex, from Tropi-
cal America, is readily distinguished by its firm fronds
very gradually narrowed to both ends; it has a
short-creeping woody rhizome, covered with rather
large, dark brown, lanceolate scales ; the firm, erect,
naked stipes are from one to four inches long; and
the leathery barren fronds, quite glabrous on both

THE CALISAYA BARK-PLANT (CINCHONA
\CALISAYA).

A fragrant hot-house shrub, a native of Bolivia,
belonging to the natural order of Cinchonads.

[VAVYSITVO VNOHONIY }

INVIG-MUVg VAVSITY) dH]

FERNS. 67

surfaces, from four to twelve inches long by three-
quarters to one and a half inches broad. The fertile
frond is narrower than the barren one, and on a
lJonger stem. In a wild state the widely distributed
tropical 4. sorbifolium has a thick woody rhizome,
often thirty to forty feet in length, and clasps the
trunks of the trees on which it grows, like a cable.
The simply pinnate, somewhat leathery fronds are
from twelve to eighteen inches long by six to twelve
inches in breadth. This makes a fine subject in the
tropical fernery for training
over tree-fern stems, or for
clothing any piece of damp
stone-work. 4. tenuifolium,
from the Mascarene Islands
and Natal, is well distin-
guished from all the others
by its compound fertile pinnae ;
it has a widely rambling,
slightly scaly rhizome, and
simply pinnate barren fronds,
three to five feet long by
twelve to eighteen inches
broad. The bipinnate fertile
fronds have a longer stem than
the barren ones.
Cultivation.—As nearly all
the Acrostichums hail from
tropical countries, few will
succeed except in the stove or
warm green-house. All like
plenty of heat, atmospheric
moisture, and a certain amount
of shade. During dull sunless
weather, they like almost as
much light as it is possible to
obtain ; but during bright sun-
shine, the houses in which they
are grown should be shaded.
\ This serves a double purpose,
for in addition to the intense
light to which they object, the shading prevents rapid
evaporation, and keeps the air from becoming too dry.
The strong-growing kinds like loam, and those with
smooth fronds should be frequently syringed. The
species in which the fronds are densely clothed with
hairs or scales should nui be syringed or watered
overhead, as they are apt to become discoloured
under such treatment. Those with slender rhizomes
can either be grown on raised hillocks of peat and
sand with a little leaf-mould, pegging down and
causing them to root wherever required, or allowed
to creep at will round trunks of tree-ferns or over
moist stone-work. Good drainage is an essential in
every case. 4. aureum will grow in almost any
thoroughly-drained compost; if required to develop

ACROSTICHUM PELTATUM,

very luxuriantly, place the pot to the depth of two or
three inches in a tank of water, or stand it during
the summer months in a saucer of water, which
must be kept constantly replenished.

The Lomarias.—The genus Lomaria is a rather
extensive one, nearly fifty species being described in
the “Synopsis Filicum,” although with narrower
views as to specific distinction some authors increase
that number to'a very considerable extent. The
headquarters of the genus is in
the South Temperate zone, but
there are outlying species all
over the world. The close
affinity between Lomaria and
Blechnum is indicated by the
fact that our native Hard-fern, y
L. spicant, was, and even now
is still, regarded by some
botanists as a Blechnum. The
principal points of difference
between the two reside in the
different position of the sori
and the different character of
the involucre. All the Loma-
rias (with perhaps one excep-
tion) have dimorphous fronds -
—that is to say, the fertile
ones are quite dissimilar in
form from the ordinary barren
ones. There is no great range
of variation in the cutting, but
the species vary not a little in
size, colour, and habit. <A
number of excellent garden
plants are furnished by the
genus Lomaria, and, as a rule,
they are certainly not difficult
to grow.

STOVE KINDS,

L. attenuata, a species widely
distributed throughout Tropical and South Temperate
regions, is a stately plant, with pinnate fronds of a
leathery texture. The stipe measures from four to
six inches in length, and the dark green mature fronds
‘from one to three feet long by from six to nine inches
broad; when young these are of a pleasing rosy tint.
L. ciliata,-a native of New Caledonia—from which
country it was introduced nearly a score of years ago
by Messrs. Veitch—is a general favourite on account
of its rapid growth and distinct and elegant habit.
The caudex attains a height of about a span, and the
drooping frorids little more than six or eight inches.
This species is allied to Z. gibba in the swollen decur-
rent bases of the pinne, but differs in its less nu-
merous fronds, and in the much less crowded series

68 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

of pinnz, as well as in their very apparent fringe of
spinulose teeth. LZ. Herminicri has a slender elon-
gated caudex, densely clothed with lincar dark brown
scales ; the stipes, four to six inches in length, are
strong, erect, dark brown, and covered with chaffy
scales; the fronds when young are of a fine crim-
son colour, but
change to a
glossy green be-
fore they reach
their full size,
which ranges
trom nine to
fifteen inches in
length by three
to four inches in

breadth. The «
geographical (\ ft
range of this / i
species is from /v

f
the West Indies \
and Columbia
southward to
Chili. Like Z.
ciliata, it Dbe-
longs to the

. Attenuata group, and is one of
the few kinds which perhaps
succeed, better in the stove
than in the cooler temperature
of the green-honse.

GREEN-HOUSE KINDS.

A good many of the specics
mentioned under ;this heading
are quite at home in the stove,
and some, like Z. gibba, and a
number of the most southern
ones, do well even in the cool
conservatory, and also in the
stove. The New Zealand
species make excellent subjects
for planting out in the cool
fernery, and one or two of them,
which are mentioned below
amongst the hardy members of
the genus, can fairly lay claim
to be considered hardy. Doubtless there are many
favoured spots in the South and South-west of
England, and in Ireland, where still more would be
found to thrive out, of doors with comparatively
little care and attention. JZ. Banksii, a native of
New Zealand, has a stout, woody, elongated caudex,
the upper portion of which is clothed with lance-
shaped, rust-coloured scales; the erect dark-coloured
stipes, which are scaly below, are three or four

LOMARIA ATTENUATA,

inches long, and the lanceolate barren fronds six to
nine inches in length by about an inch in breadth.
It is easily distinguished from all its allies by its
oblong obtuse pinnw, even the upper ones being
more than half as broad as long. JZ. bdlechnoides,
from Chili, somewhat resembles the New Zealand
Alpina, both in
general appear-
ance and man-
ner of growth,
and is especially
suitable for fern
cases of small or
moderate dimen-
sions. Its pretty
leathery, dark
green, short-
stalked fronds
are abundantly
developed from
the slender
creeping caudex,
and rarely attain
more than six
inches in length
_—the fertile
fronds, on the other hand, have
a strong, erect, dark chestnut-
brown stipé,; six inches long,
the leafy portion being from
twelve to eighteen inches long
by three inches broad. This
species only differs from the
Australian, New Zealand, and
Polynesian Z. /anceolata in its
larger fertile frond, with pinna
widened suddenly at the base
on both sides,

One of the boldest and hand-
somest members of the genus is
L. Boryana, which is frequently
found in gardens under the
name of ZL. magellanica. This
has a wide geographical distri-
bution, being found from the
West Indies southward to the
Falkland Islands and the
Straits of Magellan; in Mauritius, Bourbon, Mada-
gascar, Angola, and South Africa. Plants from
the more southern localities do remarkably well
in the cool fernery, and make strikingly beautiful
objects if planted out and allowed to develop. Asa
pot plant, too, either for general decorative or for:
exhibition purposes, it is one of the best of all the
Lomarias. Old plants assume an arborescent cha-
racter, the stout, woody, erect caudex attaining a

FERNS. 69

height of a couple of feet. The beautiful dark green
pinnate fronds are, in well-grown specimens, about
two feet long by six or eight inches broad, and the
stout erect stipe is four to six inches in length.

Perhaps the most distinctive character by which
to distinguish LZ. Boryana from L. procera—a more
slender-growing species, with broader and less
spreading pinne—resides in the very dense, long,
and fibre-like scales which clothe the caudex and’the
lower portions of the stipes. L. procera is a hand-
some plant, with a wide distribution ; in addition to
some of the countries mentioned for magellanica, it
is found in the Malayan and Polynesian Isiands,
New Zealand, South Australia, and Van Diemen’s
Land. As might be expected in such a case, a
number of slightly varying forms are cultivated
under specific names. Among these may be men-
tioned L. capensis, L. chilensis, and L. Gilliesii. L.
Germainii, a charming little plant from Chili, bears
at first sight a great resemblance to L. alpina ; it is
especially suitable for a small fern-case, or for plant-
ing out in an open corner amongst stones in the cool
fernery. JL. discolor is very similar to L. attenuata,
already mentioned under the heading of stove kinds,
but is usually larger, the fronds forming an elegant
crown, red-brown below, the pinnules narrower,
those of the fertile fronds often leafy at the base;
this is abundant in Australia, Van Diemen’s: Land,
and New Zealand. LZ. nuda, a variety of L. discolor,
from Australia, only differs from the type in its
more numerous acuminate pinne, in their less
leathery texture, and in the chestnut-coloured, not
reddish-black, stipe. L. fluviatilis is readily recog-
-nised from all the other Lomarias by the shape of
its pinne, which are oblong, obtuse, and spreading.
On account of the graceful arching character of the
soft green fronds, which measure about twenty
inches in length, this species is better adapted than
most others for cultivation in hanging baskets; it is
anative of New Zealand, Van Diemen’s Land, and
South Australia.

Certainly one of the most curious, as well as
one of the most distinct and elegant members of
‘the genus Lomaria, is the New Zealand L. Fraseri,
which differs from all the: others in the peculiar
cutting of the frond. Briefly stated, it may be
said to possess the frond of one of the Nephro-
diums (of which our common native Male Fern fur-
nishes a good example), with the fructification of a
Lomaria. It is, moreover, perhaps the only species
in the genus which presents fertile fronds similar in
size and cutting to those of the barren ones.

Probably the most generally grown of all the
species is the New Caledonian L. gibdd, which is one
of the most useful ferns for general decorative pur-
poses, both on account of its symmetrical and graceful

habit and the rapidity of its growth. It requires,
moreover, but comparatively little pot-room, and if
the necessary attention be paid to watering, good
useful plants may be kept in perfect health in small
pots, an advantage which is.appreciated by all who
have to furnish large numbers of plants for indoor
decoration, with at times but limited house-room.
A number of garden varieties of this valuable fern
have sprung into existence within the last dozen
years or more; but, except as curiosities or collection
plants, none can rival the ordinary wild type. L.
nigra, trom New Zealand, has a distinct and striking
aspect; its fronds are herbaceous in texture, the
lower pinnz being quite separate, but a large ter-
minal portion lobed only. Including the slender,
erect, densely-scaly stipes, the blackish-green fronds
altogether hardly measure more than six inches in
length. This species is most at home, and appears
to most advantage as well, between chinks of stone
in the green-house, rockery, or fern-case. L. ono-
cleoides, from the West Indies and Ecuador, is a
much more rigid plant than L. attenuata, which it
resembles in the cutting of the fronds, but the pinnz
are much shorter, and the fronds also. Although this
does well in a green-house, it succeeds thoroughly
as a stove plant, and perhaps might be with more
justice classed as w stove fern. JL. Patersoni, a
native of Van Diemen’s Land, South Australia, and
the Philippines, is generally seen with simple sterile
fronds about a foot in length ; but when the plant is
placed under favourable conditions in the green-
house or conservatory rockery, its short-creeping
rhizome grows freely amongst the moss-covered
stones and on the moist surfaces, and fronds are
frequently produced which are distinctly pinnatifid.
The New Zealand ZL. pumila most resembles L.
alpina, but it is much more delicate in texture, and
the pinne are distinctly crenated; it is a dwarf-
growing species, with slender-creeping rhizome, and
is one of the best for fern-cases or rockeries of small
size.
HARDY KINDS.

Foremost amongst the hardy species of Lomaria is
our native Hard-fern, L. spicant, which is too well
known to need any detailed description. It is
abundant enough in Britain, except in easily acces-
sible places near London and some other large towns,
where, to minister to the very general love of ferns
among town and suburban residents, the ubiquitous
“fern collector’? has cleared whole districts where
once, and not very long ago, the species was to be
found in profusion. Thousands of plants are an-

_ ually sent to Covent Garden Market by some

growers, and started in pots ina little heat, so as to
form a crown of dark green fronds before any of the
other outdoor, or rather hardy, ferns have com-

‘

70 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

menced to make much growth. They form very
attractive objects, and command a ready sale.
Several crested forms are cultivated by specialists,
and some of these are very pretty. They are, how-
ever, rather rare, as the ‘‘ monstrosity” is not as a
rule developed to any extent by plants raised from
spores, and therefore recourse must be had to divi-
sion of the parent roots, ~ somewhat slow process.
L. alpina is a smaller plant than the last-named,
with the pinne, especially of the fertile fronds,
broader and shorter. It succeeds admirably in pots,
but planted out in the cool conservatory does still
better. Under these conditions its dark metallic
evergreen fronds remain perfect until after a fresh
crop are developed. Now and then, when grown on
the outdoor fernery, the changeable weather of the
English winter discolours the fronds, but as soon as
spring sets in a new set is quickly produced. The
slender wide-creeping rhizomes run long distances
over moss-covered stones or amongst low-growing,
shade-loving plants,and no further care is required
beyond establishing the plant between the crevices
of cool absorbent pieces of rock.

Cultivation—_A good many of the stronger-grow-
ing kinds grow readily enough in good fibrous loam,
thongh even some of these seem to prefer a good ad-
mixture of peat. Perhaps the safest and best plan
for the more delicate species is to use a compost of
loam and peat, to which should be added a little de-
cayed leaf-mould and some sharp sand. Some
authorities on Lomaria culture advocate special
treatment with regard to the administration of water,
and condemn unreservedly any syringing overhead.
At Kew, however, where there is a large collection
in excellent health, no particular care is taken to
avoid syringing, and in the Palm House, where a
number of species are planted out in the beds un-
derneath the large Palms, they are being constantly
wetted overhead without exhibiting any trace of in-
jury from such a course. Stagnant moisture must,
as a matter of course, be avoided, or the fronds soon
become discoloured and unsightly. Due regard to
ventilation is necessary, and also shading during hot
and very bright weather. Taken altogether, the
Lomarias are not especially shade-loving plants, and
they will grow with but little care in this respect,
provided the necessary atmospheric moisture bo
maintained. If kept too dry, red spider and thrip
are almost certain to put in an appearance.

L. gibba, and the other subarborescent species, are
very easily raised from spores. No difficulty will be
experienced in this if the plan recommended for
raising Adiantum spores be adopted. The ones with
widely-creeping rhizomes may also be raised from

spores, but they are pérhaps more easily propagated
by division,

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS.

By Ricnarp Dean.

The Fuchsia. — This plant is named after
Leonard Fuch, a noted German botanist. It is
found indigenous in several parts of South America.
F. coccinea, one of the first, if not the first, intro-
duced species, came from Chili. Up to the year 1823
there were but two kinds grown in this country, viz.,
F. inea and F. lycioides ; the first-named remains
with us to this day; the latter in all probability has
passed out of cultivation. So much was F. coccinea
admired and sought after when first seen in this
country, that in a few years there was scarcely a
green-house or conservatory but what was orna-
mented by it. In regard to the introduction of this
Fuchsia to England, it is stated that Mr. Lee, then
a celebrated nurseryman of Hammersmith—where
his descendants still carry on their business—saw
one day when he was in the neighbourhood of Wap-
ping a pretty flower, which he purchased. It
proved to be the Fuchsia, then unknown in this
country. It soon became very popular, as the next
year three hundred plants raised from it were sold
at one guinea each. Other fine species were sub-
sequently introduced to this country from abroad,
such as corymbiflora, fulgens, serratifolia, and
splendens ; while some fine hybrids were raised in
this country, such as Riccartoni, a hybrid from F.
globosa, Standishii, Dominiana, and others.

It would be difficult to say who was the first raiser
of seedling Fuchsias in this country, or what particu-
lar species were employed as seed-parents. Finding
that the Fuchsia produced seeds somewhat freely,
the early cultivators no doubt saved some, and
discovered that the result was improved varieties.
From these, other varieties of a still more advanced
character were obtained. Then the art of fertilisa-
tion being better understood, this was employed,
with still more satisfactory results; and so the work
went on—the flowers increased in size, substance,
form, and colour, until they attained to the splendid
proportions we see in the present day. Up to 1855
Fuchsias were confined to what we may term two
types of flowers, viz., varieties with red tubes and
sepals, and violet, dark blue, and purple and plum-
coloured corollas; and varieties with white or
creamy-white tubes and sepals, and light scarlet,
rose-coloured, and pink corollas. In that year a
Mr. Story raised a variety named Queen Victoria,
in which the tube and sepals were scarlet and the
corolla white. This was considered a remarkable
production at the time, and led to the introduction of
other new varieties of a similar character. Later on
there were obtained double varieties of both types,
that is, in which the corollas are double instead of

FLORISTS’

being single. Both forms have their admirers, but
we prefer the single varieties, both for decorative
and exhibition purposes.

The Fuchsia is a plant of comparatively easy cul-
ture ; during the summer months many of them can be
grown in the openair. A few original species,
such as gracilis, globosa, coccinea, and others, are
nearly, if not quite, hardy, and live through the
winter in the open air with little or no protection.
Indeed, we may go the length of stating that the
whole of those having the habit of the old coccinea,
gracilis, globosa, &c., are well fitted for flower
garden purposes, and are to be met with in many
old-fashioned gardens. All the attention they
require is to have the flowering wood cut away after
the first frost, and a heap of ashes or any such ma-
terial placed over the roots to exclude frost from
them, removing it in April, and thinning out the
young growing shoots in May. They grow very
freely at that season of the year and soon make large
specimens. In the South and West of England and
in Scotland it is not unusual to see very fine exam-
ples of F. gracilis, F. Riccartoni, and others growing
in cottage and villa gardens, and attaining to a great
size.

The ordinary culture is by no means a diffi-
cult process. At the same time, as in the case of
other flowers, much depends upon the close atten-
tion given to the plants when young and growing on
into size. Except that new varieties of the Fuchsia
are obtained from seed, it is propagated by means of
cuttings, whitch can be had from the young growths
at any season of the year, when they are about
three or four inches long. Propagation is mainly
done in early spring; old plants are placed in a brisk
heat in February, when they begin to put forth
young growths very freely. These are taken off and
inserted in pans of silversand, thoroughly. moist,
and placed in a brisk bottom heat. In three or four
to six days these will be rooted, they can then be
potted singly in small pots, using a light sandy soil,
and when again placed in heat they soon grow into
good size. By keeping them shifted and growing
on, excellent plants can be had by the end of May.
This is the plan adopted in nurseries where Fuchsias
are largely grown. But as there are many lovers
of the Fuchsia who do not possess bottom heat
in spring, and who wish to propagate favourite
varieties of Fuchsias, we may recommend these to
place their plants in the warmest and sunniest part
of their green-house in spring, and as soon as the
young growths are four inches long, iet them be
taken off just below a joint, inserted in light sandy
soil, six or eight cuttings in a pot, placed under a
bell-glass, and shaded from the sun when necessary.
Ina fortnight or so these should have made roots,

FLOWERS. rT

and they can then be potted off as above directed,
and grown on into size as fast as possible.

The Fuchsia is a somewhat gross feeder, and as
soon as the plants begin to attain size they should be
treated to a compost with which are mingled some
good manure and leaf-soil; and when the plants are
placed in pots five inches in diameter, and a good
soil is employed, they will flower in July, and con-
tinue to do so till November; but the plants will
be greatly helped by the occasional employment of
a little weak manure-water, or by placing on the
surface of the soil once a fortnight or so a slight
dressing of Clay’s fertiliser—one of the best artificial
manures we can recommend to the attention of
amateurs. During the time the young plants are
making growth, if the weather be bright and sunny,
the specimens will be greatly helped by syringing
them overhead twice a day, as while it greatly
assists the plants it also tends to keep the foliage
clean. This is a matter of great importance. If
green-fly be allowed to infest them they very soon
cease to grow robustly, and therefore it is necessary
this insect pest be kept under by means of syringing,
and fumigating with tobacco-smoke. And on no
account should the rapidly-developing plants be
allowed to become root-bound ; if this should happen
and watering be not attended to, the leaves will turn
yellow and fall off and the plants become spoiled.
Therefore they should be re-potted as soon as the
roots touch the sides -of the pots, until they are
placed in a size large enough for them to flower in,
and then the closest attention should be paid to the
matter of watering and cleanliness.

The Fuchsia requires a great deal of water when
growing vigorously, and must not be denied it. In
the summer time we have found it a good plan to
stand our plants out in the open air, in some place.
where they can be shaded from the sun at the hot-
test part of the day. Then in late summer, when
Pelargoniums, Balsams, &c., are over, they will make
a green-house very gay until the Chrysanthemums
show their flowers. As to the shape of the plants,
the pyramid style is the best that can be adopted,
and by means of a judicious pinching back of the
young shoots the cultivator can grow his plants
into almost any shape he pleases. The pyramid or
bush style is decidedly the best.

In some parts of the country, and especially in the
West of England, Fuchsias are grown to a great size
for exhibition purposes; we have seen specimens
eight feet in height, the plants covered with luxu-
riant foliage, and overlaying this quite a sheet of
fine flowers produced in large clusters. At Trow-
bridge, in Wilts; at Devizes, and also at Bath,
as well as at other places, can these magnificent
plants be seen; and to those who are accustomed to

‘72

CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING.

see somewhat small and ragged specimens at flower _ the previous year. They are then placed in a house

‘shows, they come as an unusual revelation of the

cultivator’s skill. Some
of the plants are four
and five years old, and
some as many as eight
or nine. One of the
most successful of
these West of Eng-
land exhibitors has
furnished us with an
outline of his culture,
as follows:—“I con-
sider the end of March
‘or the beginning of
‘April the best time to
propagate the Fuchsia.
I select some of the
most vigorous cuttings
I can and place them
singly in thumb-pots,
putting .them in a
cucumber-frame, where
‘there is a brisk bot-
tom heat; when the

«

roots reach the sides.

of the pots I re-pot,
and continue to do so
until the first or second
week in July, pinch.
ing out the leading
and side shoots, in
order to get the plants
into the shape I want.
Then I allow them
to flower in_ the
autumn. These plants
I can exhibit the fol-
lowing summer. I
have shown specimens
at eighteen months’
of age that were four
feet through and eight
feet high, well grown
and freely flowered.
As a rule the plants
I exhibit are from
one and a half to
five years old, accord-
ing to the variety;
after that age I
throw them away
and .replace them by

young plants. About the end of October, when the
plants go out of flower, I prune them all back to
two. or three joints beyond where they were pruned

Fucusia VENUSTA,

to winter and kept moderately dry. In January,

or the first week in
February, the plants
are turned out of
their pots, the soil
shaken from their roots
and re-potted — the
young specimens into
pots known as ‘four-
teens,’ and the larger

‘specimens into ‘six-

teens, which are
somewhat larger. The

‘ compost I use is made
up of two parts good

fibrous loam, and the
third part composed
of leaf-mould, a little
peat, some rough silver
sand, and « fair
amount of well-decom-
posed cow - manure.
This is well mixed
together before using,
and when potted the
plants are placed in
a cold house, but
from which frost is
excluded, where they
remain until the first
week in June. Then
they are placed out
of doors on a surface
of ashes, standing each
pot on a piece of
slate, and syringing
the plants every day
in hot weather to
keep the foliage clean
and fresh; and at
this time I give the
manure-water once &
week. I make my
manure-water by plac-
ing fresh cow-dung
or horse-droppings, or
soot, in a. tub of
water, and allow it
to stand ten days
before using, and then
I give the plants a
thorough good soaking

when it is applied. In this way I grow very fine
plants for exhibition, which are the admiration of all
who see them.”

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 73

Some persons are very fond of Standard Fuchsias,
aad when these are on stiff stout stems, four feet
in height, surmounted with free-growing heads of
foliage and covered with flowers, they are very
handsome indeed. Any one can form the Standard

Fuchsia simply by taking a young plant with a
straight main stem, and cutting away all side shoots,
‘When this reaches

leaving only the leading one.
the height of
four feet or
so it should
be stopped,
and then en-
couraged to
break out in
side shoots
only at the
top, and with
these a stan-
dard head can
be formed.
Standard
Fuchsias are
very effective
indeed in a
conservatory.
Some gar-
deners place °
their old
plants of
Fuchsias in
pots, and then
stand them
on the front
stage of a
green - house,
training the
‘shoots up on
to the roof,
where they
spread outand
form quite an
inside cover-
ing, producing
an abundance
of flowers for several months. (ld plants can also be
planted against sheltered sunny walls in the open air,
where they have an excellent decorative effect, and
unless a very severe winter happens, will last for years.
Fouchsias can be used in many ways in the garden ;
beds of young vigorous plants have a very pretty
effect and make charming masses when a number of
varieties are placed ina group. They can also be
used to grow in pots inside or outside windows;
they do well planted out in boxes placed on the
outside window-sill. In cottage windows many very

Hirsi |
FUCHSIA SPLENDENS. R soe

fine Fuchsias are grown, and they flower with great
freedom, The Fuchsia does well in the crowded
parts of cities and towns, when. grown in pots, but
owing to absence of sunlight it does not flower very
freely. It isa plant that loves light and air, and
especially the sunlight.

Thousands of Fuchsias are grown for market in
the neighbourhood of London. They can be secn
in Covent
Garden and
elsewhere,
pretty little

plants Jaden
with blos-
soms. They
are produced
in a few
weeks; it is
rapid produc-
tion that en-
ables the
plants to be
sold so
cheaply, and
it is won-
derful what

charming
plants a mar-
ket grower
can produce
in quite uw
small pot.
They are all
from spring-
struck cut
tings, and
they are ready
for market in
three months
or less. There
is no more
instructive or
interesting
sight than a
= walk through
one of the large nurseries where plants are largely
grown. for market purposes. The energy of produc-
tion is truly astonishing.

New varieties of Fuchsias are obtained from seeds.
A few growers pay great atteution to the production
of seedlings, and from the best of these, our list of
named varieties is augmented. The operation of
fertilising the flower is very easily performed in
the case of the Fuchsia, and if improved varieties
are to be obtained it can. only be by careful fer-
tilisation. The pistil of the Fuchsia is always

74

prominent, and the pollen plentiful. In select-
ing flowers for crossing with each other, it ought
always to be borne in mind that those bearing
seed will communicate their habit of growth and
general character to their seedlings. Having se-
lected the flowers to operate upon, the stamens
should be cut out as soon as they open; and
when the blossoms are fully expanded, the pollen
from the pollen parents must be applied, and the
flowers so operated upon should have something tied
round their stems to distinguish their seed-pods.
‘When they are ripe, the seed can be separated from
the pulp which surrounds them by washing them
in clear water; the. good seed will sink to the
bottom.

The seed can be sown in spring, in a pan or pot of
light soil, which can be placed in a green-house. A
great deal of heat is not required to induce the
seeds to germinate, and they do this somewhat
quickly. As soon as the little plants are large
enough to handle, they require to be potted singly
in small pots, and placed in a light airy situation,
and on no account should the plants be allowed to
become drawn and lanky. The plants should be
shifted two or three times into larger pots, but it will
be found that pots four or five inches in diameter
will be large enough to flower them in. Not a
shoot should be removed until the plants bloom.
The principal object of the raiser should be to ma-
ture the plants as quickly as possible so as to induce
them to flower. This they will do in many cases
the same season, and such of the seedlings as promise
to be good should be saved for another season’s
growth, and the inferior ones rejected. When the
plants have done growing the foliage will drop off,
and they should then be sparingly watered, and be
kept pretty dry all the winter, and out of reach of
harm from frost. The following season, as soon as
they begin to show signs of activity, they should be
freely watered, but not shifted, be placed where they
can have plenty of air and light, and shifted only
when they begin to flower. It is a good plan to
plant the seedlings out in a bed in the garden when
all danger from frost has passed; the colours come
brighter and more distinct, and the raiser is better
able to form an estimate of their value. It is well
to have this bed placed in a situation where it can
be shaded from the sun, and then a good opportunity
will be afforded for the raiser to thoroughly test and
make a suitable selection from his seedlings. We
have already touched on the great interest attaching
to the raising and blooming of seedling plants. It
is an occupation of an exceedingly pleasing cha-
racter.

The illustrations will show, to some extent, the
quite different types of flower in cultivation, though

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

neither is a very modern variety. There are a
section of long-tubed varieties, represented by F.
Fenusta (the Beautiful Fuchsia). This is one of the
oldest varieties in cultivation, having been intro-
duced from Mexico half a century ago; but is now
very scarce, though of late it has again been sought
after in several quarters. The colours are crimson-
purple. Other handsome long-tubed sorts are Do.
miniana, Corymbiflora, Fulgens, and Serratifolia, all of
which are very distinct in character. The other
variety illustrated, F. splendens, was introduced from
Mexico about the year 1841, and it still remains a
favourite. It will be seen that the flowers are quite
different from the others and much shorter; they
have a scarlet tube and green sepals.

List oF VARIETIES.
Single Varieties with Red Tubes and Sepals, and Dark Corollas,

rene ‘ ‘ames neers
oe ames Lye.

Duke of Albany. James Welch.
Enoch Arden, Mr. J. Huntley.
Gazelle. Mr. King. ‘
General Garfield. President.
General Roberts. Sir Bartle Frere.
Henry Brooks. Spittire.
Improvement, Wave of Life.

Single Varieties with White Tubes and Sepals, and Pink, Rose,
Carmine, and Scarlet Corollas.

Beauty of Clyffe Hall. Lye’s Perfection.
Beauty of Trowbridge. Marginata.
Blushing Bride. Mrs. Bright.
Harriet Lye. Mrs. Marshall.
Heytesbury. Priuce Alfred.

Lye’s Favourite.

Single Varieties with Red Tubes

Cannell’s Gem.
Delight.
Flocon de Neige.

Princess Beatrice.

and Sepals, and White Corollas.

Mrs. E. Bennett.
Mrs, Mein.

Tournefort.

Double Varieties with Red Tubes and Sepals, and Violet, Blue,
and Purple Corollas.

Alfred Dumesnil. La France.
Avalanche. Marvellous.
Champion of the World. Monument.

Gem of Ipswich. Sir Garnet Wolseley.
Double Varicties with Red Tubes and Sepals, and White
Corollas.

Frau Emma Topfer. Minstrel.
Gustave Dore. Mrs. H. Cannell.
Madame Jules Chrétien, Nellie Morton.

Various Species and Varieties of Fuchsias for Conservatory

Decoration.

Albo coccinea. Fulgens.
Corymbifiora. Serratifolia,
Dominianum. Splendens,

Fuchsias with Golden and Variegated Foliage.

Aucubpfolia. Pillar of Gold.
Cloth of Gold. Regalia.
Meteor. Sun-ray.

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING. 75

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD
GARDENING.

ALPINE PLANTS.
By Epwarp W. Baperr, F.R.H.S.

A PLANTS may be described popularly
as the plants of lowly growth which naturally
occupy the mountainous regions in most parts of
the earth. In their native homes they are usually
during a part, often a large part, of every year, pro-
tected by a thick covering of snow from the effects of
the inclement weather which almost invariably pre-
vails for many months at a time at high altitudes.
The plants of these regions, which are so prized and
admired for their gem-like qualities, are, for the most
part, only a few inches high, and yet their roots
usually penetrate to a great depth, whereby they are
able to withstand the burning sun of the short, but
trying, summers which prevail in most Alpine re-
gions. Ignorance or forgetfulness of these circum-
stances is probably a chief cause of frequent failures
to grow these lovely, diversified, and interesting
plants in many English gardens, where they are often
placed on ill-made rockeries, in which neither suffi-
cient root-room is provided, nor suitable protection
afforded to compensate for the absence of the condi-
tions which prevail in their natural habitats.

The plentifulness of these plants in their native
homes is a striking illustration of the Darwinian
generalisation of the “ survival of the fittest”; their
lowly stature and their compact growth, which keeps
them close to the surface of the soil or rocks, are,
doubtless, conditions secured for them by the sifting
processes of nature, which during long ages have
eliminated from the Alpine flora all the plants in-
capable of existence under conditions which, however
congenial to the plants which are found to thrive at
high altitudes, are destructive of others of larger size.
The struggle for existence which goes on everywhere
limits the vegetation of elevated regions for the most
part to such plants as those now under consideration,
and yet there is scarcely one of them which may
not be grown in most English gardens if suitable
conditions are provided for them. It is our purpose
_ to set these forth briefly and plainly, and to mention
some of the plants which are best adapted to adorn
the gardens in which they are grown, and to yield
’ much pleasure to the intelligent cultivator.

Alpines grow naturally on the surface and among
the crevices of mountain-sides, where a great depth
of soil affords ample space for the roots to ramify as
far as necessary to obtain a sufficient supply of
suitable food. The natural position of these plants
is usually such, that an annval top-dressing of soil is
brought to them by rain or melted snow. The suc-

cessful amateur bears these facts in mind when he un-
dertakes to grow Alpines in his garden. He so makes
his rockery as to ‘provide abundance of soil of the
right kind, that the plants may not lack food; he
makes it deep enough to cnable the roots to travel
away from the surface, so that spells of dry weather
may not hurt the plants; where necessary, he gives
an annual top-dressing of suitable soil ; and he so ar-
ranges stones—limestone, or sandstone, or whatever
kind is obtainable and fit for the purpose—that the
conditions most favourable for the plants may be se-
cured. In forming a rockery, he does not build up a
miniature mimic mountain range, but rather as fair
an imitation of such a piece of Cumberland fell-side
or of some mountain slope in Wales, Scotland, or
Switzerland with which he is familiar as suits the
place he has to fill, and the special circumstances of
his surroundings. He always keeps the type cha-
racteristics of his pattern-piece of natural hill-side
well in mind, and adapts them as best he can to his
own requirements, which will, of course, vary more or
less in every case.

Soil.—The first requisite for success is good soil,
in sufficient abundance, and of such kinds as the
varied requirements of the plants he wishes to grow
may necessitate. One of our best authorities says that
a depth of ‘ three feet is not too much for most species,
and it isin nearly all cases a good plan to have plenty
of broken sandstone or grit mixed with the soil.
Any good free loam, with plenty of sand, broken
etit, &c., wl be found to suit the great majority of
Alpine and dwarf herbaceous plants, from Pinks to
Gromwells or Gentians; but peat is required by
some, as, for example, various small and brilliant
rock-plants like the Menziesias, Trillium, Cypripe-
dium, Spigelia marilandica, and « number of other
mountain and bog plants. Hence, though the general
mass may be of the soil above described, it will be
desirable to have a few masses of peat here and there

; The soil of one or more portions might also
be chalky or calcareous, for the sake of plants that
are known to thrive best on such formations, as the
pretty Polygala calcarea, the Bee Orchis, Rhododen-
dron Chamecistus, &c.” This is admirable advice, and
may be safely followed. Our own practice has been
just that described above, and we have grown Alpines
of almost all kinds with nearly unvarying success.
The plan of growing Alpines in ‘‘ pockets,” which
will be described further on, enables the special
requirements of any given plant to be provided for at
the smallest possible cost in money and trouble, and
in a very simple manner.

Situation.—The best position for the larger
number of these plants is one fully exposed to the
sun. There are some which delight in partial shade,

16 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

but these are exceptions to the general rule. The
shade of trees or walls is to be particularly avoided,
and while many of the plants are extremely accom-
modating, and may be grown almost anywhere, there
are others so exacting in their requirements that they
will not brook the presence of any rival in their own
domain, and will fail to thrive if they have not a full
share of sunlight. The plants which are so exacting
are also usually those whose intrinsic beauty is such
as will repay the fullest attention to their wants.
The situation should be somewhat elevated above the
ordinary ground-level; it should not have a uniform
height of surface, or it will be monotonous in appear-
ance, but should rise and fall in gentle undulations,
as is generally the case in a natural Alpinery. One
of the reasons for the situation being somewhat ele-
vated is that good drainage is so secured, which is an
essential condition of success with a large number of
these plants, especially during our damp winter
months, when the presence of stagnant moisture
would be certain to insure their speedy death. On
the other hand, a condition of comparative dryness
at this season of the year is distinctly beneficial. A
‘somewhat elevated position brings the plants during
the blooming period closer to the observer’s eye,
which, as they are small, and generally very beau-
tiful, is a manifest advantage. But do not let it be
supposed that we for a moment recommend anything

. like a pinnacled formation for the rockery : that under
all circumstances is to be most carefully avoided.

Watering.—As the rockery is to be above the
ground-level, and fully exposed, the soil during dry
weather will rapidly lose its moisture. It is, at the
same,time, absolutely necessary, in order to keep the
plants in health, that they should never suffer from
drought. In their native homes, the hot sun, while
it dries the soil about the plants, melts the snow at
higher altitudes, and so yields the roots a supply of
life-sustaining moisture at- the time when it is most
required. In our gardens, or in many of them, this
supply of moisture must be provided artificially.
‘Where possible, a hose laid on to a water service will
be found the most efficient means of watering; but
where this is not attainable, the water-barrow and
watering-can, or some other contrivance, must be
used instead. In some way water must be applied
freely during the growing period ; not in small drib.
lets, just moistening the surface, but plentifully, so as
to sink down some distance into the soil, and reach
the roots (however deep they may run), which must
never during the summer be allowed to suffer from
dryness. Such a watering as we have described will
need repeating at intervals, shorter or longer accord-
ing to the season ; but one such watering will be far
more beneficial than a number of surface sprinklings,

such as many amateurs usually, but erroneously,
think sufficient.

The Rockery.—In common-place rockeries,
stone of some kind, or whatever is used as a substitute
for stone, constitutes the most prominent feature ;
whereas it should’ be an almost invisible adjunct,
though a most necessary and useful one, just as our
pones are to our bodies. Our own rockery, on which
we grow a great variety of Alpines, occupies three
sides of a small lawn, and faces respectively the
south, west, and east. It is protected from the north
by a fence, which on the south side is planted with a
variety of climbing plants, many of them evergreen,
so that at all seasons it forms a pleasant background.
The longest side of the rockery is in front of this
fence, and consists of a border of varying width, from
seven or eight feet to three feet. At irregular inter-
vals, at’ the broadest points, Retinosporas, Skimmias,
Pernettyas, &c., are planted in the background, while
hardy heaths occupy more forward positions. In
front of these plants isthe rockery proper. It varies
in surface-level, but changes from one height to
another gently, never abruptly. In forming it,
the first step was to place endwise thin slabs of red
sandstone (which is plentiful in our neighbourhood)
at the front of the border, and close up to the grass.
These slabs constitute what may be called a perma-
nent dwarf boundary-wall between the grass and the
border, varying from six inches to a foot or so in
height. It is so constructed as to seem a natural
outcrop from the grass. It permits of the grass
being mown close up to it, and the proximity of the
lawn enhances the beauty of the plants grown in
the border, while with a moderate amount of atten-
tion the dwarf wall is a most useful ally in preventing
the encroachment of the Alpine plants on to the
grass. Except when first forming the rockery, the
stone constituting the front boundary-line was not
intended to be seen, and rarely has been. Over-
hanging plants, such as Saxifrages, Sedums, &c.,
were planted close at the back of it, and now hang
downwards to the grass. These are from time to
time, as necessary, kept within bounds, and supply
avaried and beautiful covering for the stone, green
and pleasant to the eye even in the depth of winter,
and masses of flowers during the spring and early
summer months.

The next step was to fill the border with
suitable soil, and so to form the foundation of the
rockery. The soil was placed so as to afford the
surface outline, or contour, which we considered
most suitable to the position. Nowhore does its
height exceed twenty-four inches above the general
level of the border; but in no part is there a less
depth of good soil than two feet six inches; in the

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING. 77

higher parts it is from twelve to eighteen inches
deeper. The next step was to introduce the stone so
as to provide the skeleton of the rockery. Some of
these stones were arranged so as to form fissures,
which are necessary for many plants. Others were
so placed as to appear to grow naturally out of the
surface, and provide many nestling-nooks for those
plants which need such protection. Every stone was
fixed in such a manner that it would conduct all
moisture falling upon it which it did not absorb to
plants growing at its base. Consequently no stones
were allowed to overhang the surface of stone or soil
lying at a lower level—a common. error, which has
led to the destruction of many a valuable gem.
Wherever possible, the stones were placed so as to
form pockets, edged on all sides with stone, which
we have found very conducive to the health of most
plants, inasmuch as the roots have been kept cool by
the moisture held by the stones. Moreover, when-
ever a plant has grown too big for its pocket, we have
found it easy to lift it bodily from the pocket, divide
it, and re-plant so much of it in its former home as
we found suitable. These pockets have another ad-
vantage : when a special compost is needed for a plant,
we simply remove the ordinary soil from a pocket,
fill it with the required compost, and the plant is
thus supplied to its liking at the least possible cost.

This rockery, Alpine border, or, as old Maund,
in his “Botanic Garden,” suggests it should be
called, “ Lapideum,’’ has now for years past been
a source of great interest and pleasure to ourselves
aod many friends, not a few of whom have been led
to imitate it in their own gardens. From January to
December it always affords some objects of interest
to tempt one into the garden, and there cannot be a
doubt as to the ever-fresh pleasure it yields in those
portions of the year when flowers in the ordinary
borders are scarcely to be seen. Bulbs in great
variety have been freely planted among the other
plants, and for such as are scarce, the plan adopted
of setting apart pockets for them has been ‘found to
answer admirably. They are secured from the spade
of the gardener, and come up year after year with
fresh and often increased vigour. From March to
July this rock border is at its best; the plants in
bloom are innumerable, and their charms are most
diversified in character ; a single genus even, such as
the Saxifrages, for instance, yields foliage and flowers
greatly differing from each other in appearance, but
all alike in being beautiful.

Large Rockeries.—Where sufficient space is
available for, and it is desired to form, rockeries on a
larger scale than would be admissible in ordinary-
sized gardens, for which the plan just described is
chiefly intended, much bolder effects can be obtained,

and more ambitious imitations of rock scenery may
be prudently and successfully attempted. One of
the most perfect and instructive rockeries of this
class is at York, and constitutes an object of ever-
increasing attraction to visitors to that city. The
origin of this rockery seems to have been due to what
may be called an accidental circumstance, as may be
gathered from the following description :—“ About
thirty years since, there resided in the county of
York a young man of delicate health, but with an
extremely active and observant mind. It was about
the year 1851 that he, in company with some rela-
tives, visited Norway, with the hope that the wild
scenery and the Norwegian mountain air would be
the means of restoring his health. It was while on
this visit, I ‘believe, and also in rambling over our
Cumberland and Welsh mountains, that he acquired
areal and lasting love for Alpine flowers. On his
return home the thought occurred to him, ‘ Why
cannot we, by constructing rock-work, bring as it were
the mountains (in miniature) into our gardens? We
should then, I feel persuaded, be able to cultivate
these beautiful Alpine flowers, by being able to place
them in similar positions to those in which they are
found in their native homes.’ This idea he carried
out with great artistic, but, at the same time, a
pleasing natural taste. The rock-work completed,
importations of plants were then made from various
parts of Europe, which were planted and watched
with loving interest and care.”

Another rockery on a grand scale is at Darley
Dale, in Derbyshire, where Sir Joseph Whitworth
has utilised some stone - quarries near to his
mansion so artistically as now to present the ap-
pearance of natural picturesque rockeries of
great extent, where bewildering numbers of plants
have been so suitably disposed as to give the
visitor the impression that he is gazing on a piece
of Nature’s daintiest handiwork. There are, it is
needless to say, numberless other instances of fine
rockeries in many public gardens, and in the private
grounds of the nobility and gentry in all parts of
the kingdom. The rockery at Kew is an instance
of a most successful kind, accessible to every one,
which may be studied with advantage by all; so,
too, is the small but well-furnished rockery near the
large vinery in the gardens of the Royal Horticul-
tural Society at Chiswick, on which Mr. Barron
skilfully grows an immense variety of most in-
teresting Alpines, and of which « portion is shown
in the coloured plate.

In districts where natural rocks, by a judicious
removal of the surface soil, can be made use of
in forming rockeries, some very fine effects may
often be obtained at a trifling outlay, where a
man of correct taste has the superintendence of

78 CASSELL’S, POPULAR GARDENING.

the work: this, indeed, is a very necessary condi-
tion of success; and, fortunately, it is not now so
difficult as it was a few years ago to obtain efficient
services in designing and forming rockeries which
shall be successful from all points of view. The
leading idea which should prevail everywhere is
naturalness allied with suitability, avoiding all ex-
travagances, but boldly using every local advantage
to the utmost extent. Where water is at command,
it will always be found a valuable ally. A trickling
rill along a rocky bed will admit of the growth of
plants which otherwise must be excluded: such, for
instance, as aquatic and such bog-loving plants as
depend for their existence on an ever-present supply
of moisture. Stepping-stones, fringed and bossed
with suitable plants, and picturesque bridges may
oftentimes be advantageously introduced; here and
there, too, a place may be found for a tiny pool, the
bed and margins of which will provide a congenial
home for many interesting plants, adding variety in
form of foliage and flowers, and so increasing the
pleasures of the garden, while the pool itself will
act asa foil to the quick-flowing rill, and introduce
the elements of peacefulness and contemplativeness
amid scenes of hurry and precipitancy. Such con-
trasts are almost always pleasing, provided they are
introduced judiciously.

The construction of such large rockeries as
we are now referring to will rarely or never be
attempted by the amateur without the aid of a
skilled professional gardener; and there is conse-
quently no necessity on this occasion to give de-
tailed instructions for their formation. But any
amateur who desires to make a successful attempt at
constructing a rockery of any pretensions without
professional aid, will find time and money well spent
if first of all he visits and patiently studies some of
the well-made artificial rockeries within his reach,
and then devotes his summer holiday to wandering
among our native hillsand mountains, or, still better,
among those of Switzerland, ascertaining how Nature
grows Alpine plants, and familiarising himself with
the principal characteristics of a natural rockery.
During such a ramble as we are recommending the
observant eye will learn many lessons which will
prove invaluable, and are scarcely to be acquired in
any other way.

THE VINE AND ITS FRUIT.

By Wiuziam Coneman.

DISEASES TO WHICH THE VINE IS SUBJECT,

Q* all the exotic fruits under hot-hotse culture, the
vine is subject to far more diseases than any
other. First and foremost stands the disease known

to gardeners as “shanking ;” then there are mil-
dew, rust, scalding, bleeding, fungus on the roots,
warts on the leaves, and aérial roots ; but as these are
less difficult to deal with, and may be averted by
good detailed management, the first and most preva-
lent affection claims our earliest attention.

Shanking.—This perplexing enemy to grape-
growers puts in an appearance just when the berries
begin to change colour, and it continues more or
less active until the crop isripe. On its first ap-
pearance a slender black thread is detected round the
stalks of the berries, further growth is arrested, the
stalks lose their vitality, and the berries become in-
tensely sour, and shrivel into what are not inaptly
termed vinegar berries. Sometimes a few berries in
every bunch shank; at other times 4 whole bunch
goes, and in very bad cases the crop is completely
ruined. It is generally admitted that shanking is
more prevalent in late houses than in early ones,
where a large portion of the roots are inside, and
having the benefit of a genial bottom heat, get
thoroughly ripe, firm, and woody before the vines go
to rest in the autumn.

That shanking may be caused by some sudden
shock or derangement of the system there is little
doubt. It may be that the foliage has been prema-
turely destroyed by red spider; the vines may have
been overstrained in preceding years; checks and
chills may have been produced by bad ventilation ;
or it may be that the borders have been kept too
dry. One orallof these ills combined might pro-
duce severe shanking, and it is by no means impro-
bable that some -of them exist at times in every
vinery, and contribute their share to the failure of
the crop; but they are not the primary cause of
shanking.

If twenty borders which produce shanked grapes
were examined, it would be found that the majority,
if not all of them, were composed of too rich ma-
terials containing an excess of organic matter, in
which the vines grow with great luxuriance, but fail
to ripen their wood. The roots, although plentiful,
would not be firm, hard, and fibry, but soft and
fleshy, like those of Asparagus, and being unripe,
would perish right back to the main roots in the
winter. The next scason a new supply of young
roots or feeders would have to be made; but the
borders being cold, rich, deep, and wet, they, would
be late in forming and quite incapable of maintain-
ing the early growth produced and supported by the
stored-up sap of the previous year. This, the first
check, would take place about the time the grapes
are stoning or approaching that stage. The crop,

lightened by wholesale shanking, would throw the . .

vines into a long-jointed vigorous growth ; the roots

THE VINE AND ITS FRUIT. 79

would again persist in growing late in the autumn,
and so this unsatisfactory state would go on from
year to year, each year getting worse, as the roots
would be penetrating deeper into the subsoil. When
this perplexing and disappointing collapse sets in,
many years’ experience justifies the assertion that
there is but one never-failing remedy, and that is to
raise the roots and re-lay them in new compost. If
carefully performed, and over-cropping is avoided, a
change will take place as if by magic: but once let
the roots descend into the subsoil, and shanking will
again put in an appearance.

In low, cold situations, where the borders are deep
and tenacious, the drainage may require turning
over, raising and ventilating, and the compost may
be made more porous and less rich by the addition of
an extra quantity of old lime rubble, burnt earth, or
road-scrapings. In sucha border the growth may
not be so strong or pithy, but it will be hard, firm,
and short-jointed, and the roots will be well ripened,
and capable of performing their proper functions
when the stoning process again comes round, What
is wanted is a warm, well-drained border, full of
hard fibry roots that will ripen with the foliage, rest
with the vines—if vines ever do rest—and produce
thousands of hungry mouths ready to devour plenty
of stimulating food when the vines are carrying a
crop of fruit.

Mildew (Oidiwn Tuckerii).—This fungoid growth
is comparatively new to grape-growers in this
country. It attacks the young leaves and fruit both
jn vineries and in the open air, and if not speedily
arrested very soon destroys the crop. In cold, un-
favourable seasons the entire crop in wine-growing
countries is frequently ruined by it. When mildew
first appears the young leaves look as though dusted
over with fine white powder. From the leaves it
extends to the fruit, and so rapid is the progress that
a few days will suffice for its spread over every vine
ina large house. Like all other fungoid growths,
although the spores may be present, it cannot make
any progress unless the conditions favourable to its
development are produced. Dryness at the roots, a
low, cold, damp atmosphere in badly-ventilated
houses—one or both combined are most likely to
bring them into activity, when, if once allowed to get
thoroughly established, the extirpation is attended
with great difficulty. When mildew attacks vines
under glass the borders should be examined, and if at
all dry, thoroughly supplied with water; then the
only effectual agent—flowers of sulphur—should be
applied, either as a wash to the hot-water pipes, or
in a dry state with a dredge or sulphurator. The
niggardly system of keeping the house close and
damp to save fuel must give way to liberal firing

and judicious ventilation; and last, but not least,
the most generous treatment must be given to thy
vines. By the liberal use of water to the roots
and sulphur in the atmosphere, the mildew itself
may be arrested, but its effects remain, as the
cuticle is completely destroyed, turns black (Fig.
30), and the berries soon crack and perish, In
gardens subject to this Oidium, prevention being
better than cure, Gishurst compound or soft-soap
and sulphur should always be used for washing the
vines before forcing is commenced, and sulphur
should be used with quicklime for washing the
walls. It may also be advantageously applied in
the form of vapour in the following manner: —
On a fine evening, heat the pipes until they are un-
comfortably warm to the hand, then paint them over
with a mixture of sulphur and skim milk, to which
w little soft-soap may be added. Air the house
early the following morning, and repeat the process
the next evening if necessary. The modern method
of applying the fumes of sulphur consists in sprink-
ling flowers of sulphur over lumps of fresh-slaked
lime laid on the floor; but it is dangerous, and
should never be heated above 150° or 160°, as any-
thing above those figures might prove too strong
for the tender foliage. On no account should sulphur
be sprinkled on heated irons or shovels, otherwise
sulphuric acid, which is produced at a tempera-
ture of 232°, will quickly put an end to all life,
animal and vegetable. Neither should sulphur be
used on the hot pipes before the grapes are thinned,
as the tender cuticle of the berries is often injured
by the fumes.

Rust.—This can scarcely be termed a disease, as
healthy vines, under good management, are never
affected by it. There are several causes assigned for
its appearance; first and foremost being the appli-
cation of sulphur to the hot pipes for the destruction
of spider or mildew. The sudden admission of cold
draughts of air when the house is very hot, and the
tender young berries are moist, and most sensitive
to rapid depressions of temperature, will also bring
about this affection ; while touching the berries with
perspiring hands during the process of thinning, or
rubbing them with the hair when working amongst
them, anything in fact of a greasy nature, which
injures the tender cuticle, results in rust. The berries
do not, however, cease to swell, but they never lay
on bloom, and look very unsightly and unwholesome
as they grow older, and the roughness of the skin
becomes fully developed. To avoid the pernicious
influence of antidotes for other diseases, sulphur
should not be applied to the pipes, if it can be
avoided, until after the grapes are stoned, and then
jt should be applied when the berries are thoroughly

80 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

dry. Muscats and those tender delicious kinds,
White Frontignan, and Duchess of Buccleuch, are
often badly rusted by sulphur, if applied when they
are ripe or approaching that stage.

Scalding (Fig. 31.)—This is a disease which
affects certain kinds of grapes, always at one par-
ticular stage of their growth. Lady Downes and
Muscats are most subject to it, and it always attacks
them during the time they are finishing stoning.
In fine, steady weather, the disease is very slight;
but during hot oppressive days, notably when the
atmosphere is charged with electricity, the bunches

is satisfactory, the critical period will not exceed
three weeks.

Bleeding.—When bleeding sets in, it is almost
impossible to stop it until the vines get into leaf,
when Nature lends her healing art ; but by that time
vigorous vines are very often seriously enervated.
Searing with hot irons, sealing-wax, painter’s knot-
ting, and other styptics have been recommended ;
but so powerful is the force of the sap, that every
application is diluted and rendered useless until it
finds an outlet in the leaves. Fortunately a pre-
ventive remedy which is extremely simple can

Fig. 30.—Mildew.

suffer severely. The berries suddenly become de-
pressed and puckered on one side; the kernels seem
to ferment, and in a few hours they look as if they
had been syringed or touched with boiling water.
What is most remarkable, scalding is not confined to
bunches that are exposed to the sun, as many of
them are placed where the sun cannot touch them.
During the stoning process, great attention should
be given to ventilation throughout the day, and the
moment a scalded berry is detected, the house should
be as freely ventilated as a warm conservatory. A
low temperature must not, however, be caused by
allowing the fires to go out, as the link which com-
pletes the twenty-four hours, consists of keeping the
pipes and the house warm through the night to pre-
vent the berries from getting cold before morning,
otherwise they will condense moisture, as they will
not warm so quickly as the air of the house when
the sun again falls upon the roof. If root-action

Fig. 3i.—Scalding.

always be found in early pruning, as has been
suggested in a previous article. Thomson’s styptic
should always be applied to every cut the moment
the vines are pruned,

Warts on the Back of the Leaf.—If this is
not a disease, it is a very unsightly gathering of
vegetable matter in the wrong place, and a sure
indication that the management of the house is far :
from satisfactory. Many think it does no harm,
but when warts become very bad, the foliage cups,
turns pale yellow, and eventually dies, Moreover

the first application of sulphur to the pipes

turns every wart black, a sure proof that the
organised matter is in a very sensitive, if not a con-
gestive state. Warts are most prevalent in small,
close, early-forced pits and houses, which are im-
perfectly ventilated, and saturated with stagnant
atmosphere.- Large houses that are freely ventilated

: THE VINE

zaroly suffer, a fair proof that more fresh air and
less atmospheric moisture will prevent this evil.

Air Roots on the Stems.—Many people take
little heed of these, but allow them to grow on and
die off with the foliage. If the shoots are placed
over pots of soil or moss, they soon take hold and
form established vines. The late Mr. Fleming
used to moss the stems, and feed by syringing with
liquid ; but they are unsightly, and, like warts on the
aeaves, they incontcstably prove that something is
wrong. <Aérial roots proceed from two causes, cither
the borders are cold, wet, and unfavourable to the
growth of the natural rdots at the time when a large
expanse of foliage and fruit is making a heavy
demand upon them, or the vinery is kept too close
and warm. The remedy for the first evil will be
found in lifting and re-laying the roots in new
compost, for the second in a more perfect system of
ventilation.

Fungus on the Roots.—Although this under-
ground and consequently out-of-sight worker does

Fig. 32.—Red Spider (magnified).

not often attack vines, when it does it generally
works serious mischief before its presence is de-
tected. It sometimes happens that vines, and not
unfrequently conifers, apparently in the rudest
health, suddenly collapse and die; when, on the
removal of the soil, the roots are found completely
covered with the mycelium or spawn of some fungus,
which has been produced by decaying woody matter
in the border. The most common cause of the
presence of this fungus is the introduction of leaf-
mould containing bits of sticks in the formation of
the border. Or it may be that the decaying stem of
an old vine has been left in the border. When this
rapidly-spreading fungus is found, there is only one
remedy—the entire removal of every particle of soil
containing the white thread-like mycelium, other-
wise it will soon overrun the borders, and destroy
every root. When all the affected soil has been
30

AND ITS FRUIT. 81

removed, the roots should be well washed with
warm water and sprinkled with quicklime. This
will speedily destroy all the spawn with which it is
brought into contact, when the borders may be
made up with new compost.

Insects which Prey upon the Vine.—As
many insects by their persistent attacks on the
leaves, shoots, and roots of vines speedily weaken or
destroy their vitality, every grape-grower should be
able to detect them at sight. To enable him to do
this, the accompanying illustrations, which are highly
magnified, with instructions for destroying the in-
sects, will be found useful.

Red Spider—Tetranychus telarius (Fig. 32.)—
With the exception of the Phylloxera, this is the
most general, as it is the most troublesome insect
with which the grape-grower has to contend. It
breeds and feeds on the lower sides of the leaves,
where it spins its web, and increases with alarming
rapidity, especially if the house is kept hot, dry, and
badly ventilated. In colour it is of a lightish brown,
but so small that it cannot readily be seen without
the aid of a magnifying-glass; but not so its work,
as the first intimation which the experienced culti-
vater receives is generally conveyed by the brownish
appearance of the leaves, often in « dry corner or
near the hot-water pipes. In such places these
minute insects breed by the thousand, and feed upon
the juices of the leaves, which they very soon destroy.
From the leaves, if unchecked, they soon find their
way to the bunches, which it is hardly necessary to
say never colour or attain their proper flavour.

With the above remarks for his guidance, the
amateur should ever be on the alert for the enemy,
and the appearance of the first brownish-looking
leaf should be the signal
for unrelenting warfare.
In the first instance,
sponging the lower sides
of the leaves with warm
soapy water may be re-
sorted to, and although it
is a slow process, it is a
certain cure, and an active
person will go over many
leaves in a few hours.
Supplementary to spong-
ing, water the roots freely, and keep the atmosphere
of the house as moist as may be consistent with the
health of the growing vines. If incessant syringing
could be practised, and every leaf could be thoroughly
washed, the webs would be broken, and spider would
soon disappear; but as ordinary water would damage
the fruit, the syringe can only be used when it is

Fig. 33.—Thrips minutis
sima.

82 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

pure and free from calcareous sediment, or there is
no fear of the spray reaching the berries. The last
resort is sulphur mixed with milk, and applied to
the pipes when they are hot, in exactly the same way
as recommended for destroying mildew. But, where
it can be applied, pure water is the best agent, as it
refreshes and strengthens the vines, while it weakens
the spider and eventually clears the house.

Thrips (Thrips minutissima) (Fig. 33).—The
accompanying greatly-magnified figure represents
this voracious little enemy. It is a long slender
insect, dark brown, sometimes almost black. It feeds
upon the leaves of the vines, which it soon renders
useless for elaborating the sap, and being a dirty
insect it soon spoils the fruit. Like the red spider,

it rejoices in a high dry temperature, and strongly

Fig. 35.—Vine Beetle (Otiorhyncus picipes).

objects to water, but water alone will not
eradicate it. Fortunately, it is not so
generally met with as the spider; indeed, it
is rarely met with in vineries from which
plants, especially Azaleas, are strictly ex-
cluded. If taken in time, sponging with
soap and tobacco-water will check its ravages and
destroy it; but the most effectual remedy is fumi-
gating with tobacco-paper. This should be repeated
two or three times at intervals of ten days, in order
to catch the larve as they merge into life.

Mealy Bug (Dactylopius adonidum) (Fig. 34).—
This disgusting insect, like the thrips, is not so fre-
quently met with on the vine as the spider ; but,
unfortunately, it is becoming very prevalent where
plants are grown in the house. The white mealy
fluff, from which it takes its name, is an excretion
almost impervious to water, but it instantly melts
away under oils or spirits. This pest is one of the
most troublesome met with in vine-culture, and
hence the importance of excluding all suspicious
plants from the vineries. When once introduced it
‘spreads from the branches, where it finds a secure
hiding-place, to the shoots, and thence to the
bunches, which it renders unfit for use, The. best

Fig. 34.—Mi
Bug.

remedy for summer use is methylated spirits applied
with a camel-hair brush, as the warmth draws them
out of their snug winter quarters under the bark.
Fir-tree oil and paraffin in a diluted form also pro-
duce instant death, but without unceasing attention
these remedies only scotch the enemy. As a winter
dressing gas-tar is now generally used in the follow-
ing way :—Having rubbed off all the loose bark,
well scrubbed the rods with strong soap-water, and
stopped the holes in old spurs with Gishurst com-
pound, paint every bit of the wood, young and old,
with the tar mixture, when the vines are thoroughly
atrest. As tar is very powerful and difficult to mix,
it should be carefully prepared as follows :—To one
peck of dry, sifted loam placed over the fire in an
iron pot, add half a pint of tar; thoroughly mix the
two together, and add as much boiling water as

Fig. 36.—Scale (Coccus vitis).

will reduce the mass to the consistency of
cream. Apply when cold enough with an
old paint-brush.

The Vine Beetle (Otiorhyncus picipes)
(Fig. 35).—This nocturnal worker, although
not very common in our vineries, sometimes does
serious mischief before its presence is detected. It
comes out at night, when all is quiet, and eats or
partly eats through the tender young leaders of the
vines. Sometimes they are only just touched or
blackened, but they never do any more good, and
have to be cut back to a sound bud below the injury.
Unlike some of our voracious enemies, this beetle is
epicurean in its tastes, akvays giving preference to
certain varieties of vines, if it can get them. The
best way to destroy it is to go quietly at night,
spread a sheet under the vines, and give the rods a
sharp shake with the hand, when they will fall upon
the sheet and be readily seen.

Scale (Coccus vitis) (Fig. 36)—This insect is,
fortunately, not often met with in England, for it is
a most disagreeable scourge and very difficult to ex-
tirpate. Ifnot taken in time it extends ‘from the
wood to the leaves, and thence to the fruit. As the

THE VINE AND ITS FRUIT. 83

females cover their eggs with their inanimate shells
through the winter, the vines should be thoroughly
cleansed when they are pruned, and should be
looked over every week for any of the young that
may have escaped to form new colonies.

_ The Vine Louse (Phyllorera vastatrix) (Figs. 37

——89).—Of all the insects with which the grape-
grower has to contend this appears to be the most
terrible. Within the last few years it has found its
way from the Continent, where it devastates whole
vineyards, into our own vineries, in which already
it has wrought wholesale destruction; and there
can be but little doubt that it is now insidiously
and silently working in many unsuspected places,
where it will remain until favourable conditions
and circumstances admit of its withering develop-
ment. While the French Government are offer-
ing rewards of tens of thousands of pounds for
remedies that will destroy the Phylloxera without
injuring the vines, and other Governments, in the
plenitude of their wisdom, are making perplexing
laws, which are as useless as they are oppressive, for
preventing its introduction into their own countries,
the silent death-dealing pest is rapidly spreading
over every wine-growing district in Europe. We
learn from those who have had the misfortune to
grapple with this insect in British hot-houses, that
it is capable of destroying a healthy vine within
a month; and no certain remedy for its destruc-
tion, save that of stamping out, has as yet been
discovered: that is, by taking out all the vines and
burning them, together with the soil in which they
grew, thoroughly cleansing, painting and lime-wash-
ing the houses, salting or scalding the site of the
borders, and re-planting with fresh vines.

The mature insect is described as being of a
yellowish-brown colour, and so transparent that the
eggs, which are also transparent, can be seen in its
inside. Its various forms are shown in the illustra-
tions, highly magnified, which appear on the next
page. The insect first attacks the points of the
roots, and works along to the base of the stem (Fig.
37, 4, ¢, @), stripping off the bark as it proceeds
on its way, and moving in such numbers that,
when examined under a microscope, the insects
present the appearance of miniature swarms of
bees, literally rolling over each other. Under-
ground they breed in myriads, preferring the dry
warm inside borders, where they are most numerous,
while in cold wet borders they are less plentiful, if
not entirely absent, a proof that water and cold are
antagonistic to them. They do not remain on the
roots after they have devoured the bark, neither are
they often seen about the house, except in the galls,
as shown on the leaf (Fig. 39), which they enter

from the top side. From experiments that have
been made it appears that submersion in water for
forty-eight hours kills them, or a weak solution of
carbolic acid causes instant death ; indeed, it seems
probable that these soft viscid creatures are easily
deprived of life when they are brought to light ; but
the great difficulty lies in getting at them, as
chemicals can only be conveyed through the agency
of water, and then arises the question, will one ap-
plication destroy the larve as well as the living
insects? Our knowledge of other insects justifies us
in thinking the attempt would end in failure. The
only consoling part of this sad story is the well-
proved fact that the Phylloxera will not live or
breed on the roots of any plant save the vine; and
as vines in English hot-houses are confined to a very
small area as compared with Continental vineyards,
it is the duty of every grape-grower to dig up, burn,
and destroy every particle of wood, root, and soil, as
soon as the presence of this terrible scourge becomes
known to him.

REMARKABLE VINES.

As a conclusion to these articles, lovers of grape-
lore may be interested in a brief account of some of
the most remarkable vines which are now in exist-
ence in this country, and producing tons of grapes
of the finest quality annually.

Amongst these, varieties of the Black Hamburgh, .
which may be considered as the national grape and
the gardener’s friend, are the most numerous. The
vine at Hampton Court, although not the oldest, is
pethaps the best known to the general public, and
on that account is worthy of the first place in this
record. It was planted in 1769, and was raised from
a cutting taken from a large vine at Valentine
House, Essex. Its girth is now 42 inches, and it
fills a house 66 feet long and 30 feet wide. For the
past hundred years it has been an object of great
interest to grape-growers and the public, who
marvel at this fine specimen of extension training.
It is still in excellent health, and produces from
1,200 to 1,800 small bunches annually. In 1822 the
girth of the stem was 13 inches, and the produce in
one year amounted to 2,200 bunches of 1 Ib. each.
William Cobbett, in his description of it fifty years
ago, says: “ There is a vine in the king’s garden
which has for half a century produced annually
nearly a ton of grapes.’ George ITI. must have
been a good judge of their quality, as he enjoyed the
fruit for fifty years.

The vine at Cumberland Lodge, which is now
about seventy-five years old, is much larger than
the Hamburgh at Hampton Court. It was origin-
ally planted in a small pit, which it soon filled ; then,
a house was erected over it, and enlarged from time

Pali
suo
a es
une
a

Fig. 37—PHYLLOXERA. 4, healthy root ; b, infested root, showing knots and swellings caused by the lice; c,a root deserted, and rootlets.
decaying ; d d, insects on larger roots ; ef, upper and under surface of female pupa; g h, upper and under surface of winged female;
4, Wingless female laying eggs; k, large root rotting through punctures of the lice.

Fig. 38.—Pupa and imago of short-bodied form of Phylloxera, 5. 39,— -] i i te
2, imperiect eggs formed in the abdomen. y Fig. 39.—Vine-leaf infested Sut ehyloxera, forming small galls

THE FLOWER GARDEN. 85

to time, untilits present dimensions are 138 feet in
length and 20 feet in width. The circumference of
the stem is 3 feet 6 inches where it branches into
two rods. Each of these again break into two stems,
which extend the whole length of the house, and
cover every part of the trellis with branches. Thesc
branches are pruned on the close-spur system, the
space, 2,500 feet, of trellis for extension having
Jong since been filled. Some seven years ago it was
my privilege to be present when the first box of
grapes of the season was cut, to -be forwarded to the
Queen, then in Scotland. Many of, the bunches, as
well as the berries, were remarkably fine, and ap-
peared to be the counterpart of the produce of the
vine at Eastnor; but they were slightly deficient in
colour. I have since learned that this produce ex-
ceeded 1,200 Ibs. The houses in which these two
veterans are grown are heated by flues, but the
vines are allowed to come on with the increasing
warmth of the season, consequently little fire-heat is
used.

A worthy descendant of the Hamburgh at Cum-
berland Lodge may be seen at Sillwood Park, near
Ascot. It is upwards of fifty years old, and fills a
house 120 feet in length, witha rafter of 12 feet.
The vine, planted in the centre, is about three feet
jn circumference, and throws out eight lateral
branches, which are trained Norizontally the whole
length of the house. These rods furnish the bearing
wood, which covers 1,500 feet of trellis, and pro-
duces about 1,800 bunches of grapes annually.

The celebrated Hamburgh vine at the late Mr.
Kay’s nursery, Finchley, now more than a quarter of
a century old, filled a house 90 feet in length and 18
feet in width by the time it was seven years old.
Being much younger than the preceding vines, and
its branches having been so rapidly extended, while
its roots are ina good grape soil, the produce, as
may be supposed, js superior to that obtained from
the older vines. It must not, however, be inferred
that great age prevents vines from producing first-
class grapes, as the horticultural journals record
yearly proofs to the contrary. So long as fresh
food can be given to the roots, and the branches can
extend, old vines will produce magnificent bunches
and berries by the hundredweight from generation
to generation.

"In addition to the preceding, there is a vine at
Shardloes, Bucks, nearly one hundred years old,
filling a house 80 feet in length; and the vine at
Eastnor, seventy-five years old, and filling a house
72 feet in length. This vine, like the Muscat at
Harewood, was supplied with fyesh soil and drainage
twenty years ago. A new house was built over it,
30 feet longer and 3 feet wider than the old’ one ;
extension was at once indulged in, and the effect

produced by the combination of new compost, better
drainage, and a larger house was marvellous.

The Muscat at Harewood just referred to is un-
doubtedly the finest of its kind in Britain. It is
now over one hundred years old, having been
planted in 1783. It is pruned on the long-spur
system, and the produce a few years ago averaged
400 bunches of 1 Ib. each.

Mr. Thomson, in his excellent book on the vine,
speaks of vines over one hundred years old at
Moredun, Edinburgh. They are planted in outside
borders, and the roots have travelled under the
foundations of brick walls in search of suitable food.

He also describes a Hamburgh growing at Kennell
House, Breadalbane. This, like the Finchley vine.
is comparatively young, having been planted in
1832. The produce, some 600 bunches annually, is
said to be very fine, and quite free from shanked
berries, It now fills a house 172 feet long and 24
feet wide. Combined with extension training, the
keystone of success, it appears, exists in the form of
an old Asparagus-bed, into which the roots have
found their way. So long as the juvenile of fifty
odd summers exists, we may safely predict that the
Asparagus-bed will be safe from molestation.

The sister island does not seem to be noted for old
vines, but there are a few. When at the viceregal
lodge thirty years ago, Mr. Smith was training a
very promising young extension Hamburgh, which
went on well for some years, but has since died.

At Castletown, the seat of the late T. Conolly,
Esq., near Celbridge, an old vine filled a house
which, to the best of my recollection, must have
been nearly 80 feet in length. It bore immense
crops of black grapes, but being an inferior variety,
a Hamburgh had been planted at the opposite end
to take its place, and, judging from the way in
which it was then progressing, there can be but
little doubt that the veteran has long since been

removed.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

By Witiiam WILDSMITH.

WINTER BEDDING.

HIIS phase of flower gardening is not nearly so
largely practised as it ought to be, though why

such should be the case it is difficult to surmise, unless
it be on the ground of the expense of material and
labour. This, after all, is not nearly so formidable
as at first sight appears, particularly now that there
are so many species of plants which are equally well
suited for summer as winter, so that one planting of
such kinds of plants suffices for the two seasons.
We shall hope to show that there is really but very

little more iabour attendant on the adoption of the
two-seasons plan of bedding—summer and winter
—than if one branch only were done, whilst the
satisfaction and pleasure attendant upon furnished
flower-beds in winter would warrant a far larger
additional expenditure of both money and labour.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

ing in autumn when the summer garden is over,
This latter is the plan we have followed for years,
and it will perhaps be made more plain by the accom-
panying illustrative example.

Design, Fig. 8, gives the summer and winter ar-
rangement of the same bed. It will be noted that
summer plant-
ing is entirely a

of the system,

the first requisite
is « close study
of what hardy
plants are suited
for association
with the summer
bedders, without
imparting undue
sombreness to
the general
effect. Quiet
beauty rather
than gaiety is at
nll times desir-
nble; but the
other extreme of
dulness in the
summer season
must be guarded
against; and for-
tunately the
wealth of suit-
able plants is so
great that, to all

=
CxS@

foliage arrange-
ment, but it does
not follow from
this that the
same principle is
not applicable to
flowering plants;
it is equally so,
but this arrange.
ment is given
(both summer

one we have re-
cently put in
practice, and
which proved at
both seasons as
effective as the
most exacting
taste could de-
sire. The Eche-
veria in No. 3 is
the only doubt-
ful plant as to

ordinary obser-

vers, there is i &

SCALE OF FEET
8

withstanding the

is winter; and in

little danger of
this even when
the garden has
to be arranged
after this two-
seasons plan. In
some cases this is.

Summer Planting.
1. Ralsed edging and line of Herniaria gla-

bra (green .

2. Pyrethrum, GoldenFeather. .

3. Echeveria secunda glauca, slightly raised
and the interstices filled in with Sedum
glaucum, -

4, Sround work of Sedum acre elegans varie-

atum.

. 5. Aiternanthera magnifica, with central
not required, the j poctplant of Grevillea robusta. ecto
q . Kleinia repens, with central dot-plant o:

summer bedding , Semperviyum arboreum yariecatum.

7, Echeveria glauca metallica and centre
plant of Agave americanum Variegata,

8. Alternanthera amabalis, ‘

9, Kleinia repens and central plant of Agave
americana variegata,

being all cleared
away first, and
the winter ar-
rangements be-
ing purely such. Under these conditions greater
gaiety is better assured during the summer; and
as shrubs would then be the principal winter occu-
pants of the beds, they present a more filled-out
effect, but not so refined as when dwarf carpeting
plants are used. Therefore it is best to be con-
tent with a reasonable amount of summer gaicty,
and have the greater refinement and greater variety
in winter; and not only this, but less labour of plart-

Fig. 8.—DrEsien FoR Winter Bepprne.
r
2.
3. Same as summer,

4.

5. Erica carnea, and small Golden Holly as

. Same as summer,

nine seasons out
of ten it would
stand if planted
a little sloping,
or.on edge, to
throw off rain,
which, lodging
on the crowns of

Winter Planting.

Same as summer.

Same as summer.

a centre.
6. Sedum Lydium (green), and centre plant
ou Petavencrs fisiters oe ie the : lants i
+ Central plant of Cupressus erecta viridis,
surrounded with the green Euonymus. i BEOv ES fas ano.
8. Sedum corsicum (grey). destructive to
9, Golden variegated Euonymus.
the plants than
does frost.

The central bed, which in summer is marked
to be planted with Tree Succulents, such as Sem-
pervivum arboreum, Sempervivum Hendersonii, and
others of similar habit, is one of the most novel and
telling features of the arrangement. The carpeting
or undergrowth to the tall succulents may be either
tufty-growing Sedums, or the flowering Mesembry-
anthemum conspicuwn. Having tried both plants, we
certainly give preference to the former, flowers

and winter) ag -----—~

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

seeming quite out of character with succulents, even
though the flowering plant itself belongs to that
order. The most suitable kinds of shrubs for the
winter planting of this central bed are upright
growers; not clipped to make them unnaturally
formal, but such as Thuja aurea, Cupressus Lawsonii
erecta, and golden Retinosporas; and the carpeting
may either be that of the summer or variegated Ivy,
Euonymus, Stachys lanata, or variegated Thyme.
Taking this arrangement as a whole, and taking into
account the gloom of winter, it is proportionately as
bright as that of the summer; add to this the fact
of how little labour and how comparatively few
plants are needed to so transform the bed, and the
merits of winter bedding become conspicuously ap-
parent.

The same principle of arrangement is applicable to
the simplest or the most varied of gardens, and what
is another advantage, it can be done wholly or in
part, according to the material at command. Even
half the beds filled in winter would certainly look
better than all being empty; for so accustomed are
we to see bare: beds at that season, that the half
which must remain empty, if necessary, owing to
lack of plants, would not appear particularly objec-
tionable. But we must: again repeat that there is
such an abundance of material to be had at a very
cheap rate as will, when coupled with the desire to
carry out winter bedding on the lines here indicated,
render it a very easy matter indeed to fully furnish
the whole of the beds.

List of Plants.—Keeping in view the first essen-
tial condition to the successful practice of this duplex
method of planting, viz., that of using in the summer
arrangement as many hardy plants as possible suit-
able for association with the various descriptions of
summer bedding plants, the list of these is placed
first.

Evergreen shrubs, in small plants for middles
and angles of beds, to relieve objectionable flat sur-
faces and dense masses of colour :—

Cupressus Lawsonii aurea. Retinospora obtusa densa.
C. Lawsonii argentea. R. filifera.
C. Lawsonii erecta viridis. R. pisifera.

macrophyllus | R. pisifera argentea,
BR, plumosa aurea.
R. squarrosa.
Thuja aurea.

Thujopsis borealis.

variegatus.
E. japonicus albo-variegatus.
Juniperus hibernica.
J. japonica alba variegata.
Osmanthus ilicifolius varie-
gatus.

And all other small Conifers that bear transplanta-
tion well. The following are also suitable :—~

P. tenax variegata.
Yucea gloriosa.

Y. filamentosa.

Y. recurva.

Aralia Sieboldii.
Bambusa Metake.
B, Fortunei.
Phormium tenax.

87

ot suitable small-growing hardy plants that har-
monise well with summer bedders for use as ground-
works and divisional lines, the name is legion.
Amongst the best are many kinds of Saxifragas,
Sedums, Sempervivums, and others of like growth and
habit, that are too well known to be particularised
here. In addition to the shrubs, &c., here named as
suitable for use in summer—and, as a matter of
course, throughout the winter—the following may be
added as effective winter kinds :—Green and varie-
gated Aucubas for massing; variegated Hollies, as
standards amongst masses of Berberis Aquifolium, B.
japonica, or other greenery ; Cotoneaster microphylla,
a plant most suitable for large vases, as a companion
plant for the green and variegated Ivies, and Peri-
winkles (Vincas) for drooping over the edges, and it
also makes a good dot-plant, on a ground-wark of
the broad-leaved Vinca elegantissima variegata. The
golden variegated Yew is another good plant for
either grouping or as single plants, and no shrub
bears the frequent transplantation that winter bed-
ding entails as do this and the common Yew, un-
less perhaps it be Box, both green and variegated,
which are also invaluable for winter decoration. The
Japanese Honeysuckle, Portugal Laurels, Skimmia
japonica, and Kalmias complete the list of shrubs ;
but there are numerous other plants that, if common,
are in their way just as valuable. Amongst them
are Ajuga reptans purpurea, Stachys lanata, common
and variegated Thymes, Heaths, Veronica incana, and
Veronica rupestris. Here, then, is an ample array of
material with which, combined with the will, labour,
and ground, our gardens can be made as attractive in
winter as in summer.

To get up a stock of plants of course takes time,
but when once had they are comparatively a per-
manency, which is more than can be said about sum-
mer bedders; whilst, as compared with these, they
do not involve a tithe of their cost, if houses, fires,
labour, and short duration be placed in the balance,
with the piece of ground that is required as a reserve
garden for the transfer and increase of shrubs, &c.,
during the spring and summer.

To be effective at once, Sedums and other dwarf
ground-work plants should, at the winter season, be
lifted in turf fashion, and be pressed down in their
allotted positions. To this end it is necessary to divide
them in spring time, and plant out in beds of con-
venient width for paring off without treading on the
plots. In districts where Heather is plentiful, that
which has been nibbled close by rabbits makes the
most perfect setting, or ground-work, for all descrip~
tions of shrubs ; and if this cannot be had, or any of
the other ground-work plants mentioned, a surfacing
of cocoa-fibre refuse will prove of immense service by
imparting a finished and neat appearance.

88 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

ORCHIDS.

By WitLtam Huex Gower.

Ansectochilus.—A small genus of terrestrial
Orchids, which, in the island of Ceylon, is called by
the Cingalese the King of the Woods; they have
slender-jointed rhizomes, and grow but a few inches
high. They are natives of the continent of India as
well as the Indian Islands, and there is little doubt
that many very fine forms remain undiscovered up to
the present time. Anzctochilus are remarkable for
the extreme beauty of their leaves, but their flowers,
though curious, are small and inconspicuous. These
plants have up to the present time sorely troubled
‘their admirers, inasmuch as they have hitherto
proved very precarious and uncertain in their nature,
and extremely difficult to keep alive for any length
of time. Several reasons may be given to account
for this: and, first, we think they have always been
kept in much too high a temperature; secondly, we
are of opinion that they have been treated to the in-

- fluence of light too freely; thirdly, we believe that
naturally they are not long-lived, but are produced
freely from seed. To support our views respecting
these piants, let us take into consideration where
they grow. A friend of ours who has collected these
plants in their wild homes says, ‘t Anzectochilus are
found at an elevation of from 3,000 to 4,000 feet, and
most frequently in ravines near mountain streams.
Though the temperature must fall much below
freezing in winter, the plants are never exposed to
the direct influence of frost, being sheltered by trees.
The maximum temperature probably never exceeds
70°, and this can only be for an hour or so in the day.
.They grow freely in a temperature of 65°, and rot
off very quickly if any decayed vegetable matter or
mildew is allowed to accumulate about the stem.
They should never be allowed to dry up, though free
drainage is undoubtedly essential. The soil in
which they are found growing is a combination of
peat and vegetable mould.”

To imitate the seclusion these plants grow in
naturally, they should be placed under bell-glasses
or ina small hand-frame. The pots used for them
should be small and thoroughly drained, the soil to
consist of one part fibrous peat, one part living
sphagnum moss, a small portion of sharp sand, and
a little finely-broken charcoal; this must not be
pressed down very firmly, and the whole should be
surfaced with some live moss chopped small. This
is important, as the Ansctochili.grow so much freer
when the roots are surrounded with vegetation.
During the summer season they enjoy an abundant
supply of water, but avoid watering much over the
leaves, They require but little rest, and certainly
no drying off, but during the months of November,

December, and January the supply of water must.
be greatly reduced. In the month of February
re-pot, as it is best to give them fresh soil at least
once a year. Place them in a shady secluded corner
in the Brazilian House. —_

A, Bullenii.—Leaves ovate-lanceolate, two to three
inches long, dark bronzy-green, with three bold
stripes of coppery-red traversing them. Borneo.

A. Dominii.—Leaves somewhat ovate, the centre
tawny-yellow, margined with dark olive-green, the
principal veins being whitish. A garden hybrid,
obtained between 4. zanthophyllum and Goodyera
discolor.

A. intermedium.—Leaves ovate, or cordate when
the plant is vigorous, some two and a half inches
long, ground-colour intensely dark and velvety,
main ribs bright sparkling gold colour, netted
between with fine lines of the same brilliant hue.
Java.

A. Lowti (correct name Dossinia marntorata).—
Leaves broadly ovate-lanceolate, three to five
inches long and two to three broad; ground-colour,
deep reddish olive-green, traversed by golden
veins, which fade to some extent as the leaves
get old. There is another form of this species
with the ground-colour of the leaves a bright
green, which is sometimes named .4, Lowii virescens.
Borneo.

A. Lobbii.—Leaves ovate, the ground-colour deep
olive-green, midrib silvery white, with finer trans-
verse reticulations. Java.

A. Nevillianum.—Leaves ovate-lanceolate, dcep
rich velvety-green, marbled with orange. ‘Borneo.

A. Petola.—The correct name of this beautiful
plant is Macodes Petola, but it so much resembles
Anetochilus, and is so often called by that name,
that we retain it in the list for convenience. Leaves
oval, bright velvety-green, clouded with a slightly
deeper hue, and beautifully netted over the entire
surface with sparkling golden lines. Java.

A. Ruckerii.—This, together with Bullenii and
Nevillianus, has only been brought to this country
upon one occasion, and at the present time they are
very rare in cultivation; their extreme beauty, how-
ever, should induce lovers of this family to obtain
them again. The leaves are broadly ovate, ground-
colour bronzy-green, beautifully spotted or marbled
over the whole surface. Borneo.

A. setaceum.—This is the “Wana Rajah,” or King
of the Woods, of the Cingalese. Leaves roundish
ovate, upwards of two inches long, and about an
inch and a half broad; ground-colour of a rich deep
coppery hue and velvety, main ribs broadly striped
with bright gold, the intermediate spaces beautifully
netted with the same. Ceylon and several of the
East Indian Islands.

ORCHIDS. 89

A. setaceum, var. cordatun.—As its name implies,
the leaves of this variety are distinctly heart-
shaped ; the ground-colour is slightly greener, and

deep green, with a broad central band of white
tinged with gold. Java.

A. xanthophyllum.—This beautiful species has

ANGRECUM EBURNEUM VIRENS.

the golden reticulations are broader. It is ex-
tremely beautiful and rare. Ceylon, &c.

A. striatum — sometimes and more correctly
named Monochilus regium—a somewhat taller plant
than the majority of the Anctochilus. Leaves

narrow-lanceolate, some three inches long ; margins

broadly-ovate leaves, some two and a half inches
long, and nearly two inches in breadth, with a broad
central band of orange, clouded with green, densely
netted with brilliant gold; the margins are dark
olive-green, also covered with a network of gold.
Ceylon.

90 CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING.

Angreecum.—This isa large family of epiphytes,
but many of the species produce such small flowers
that, judging them from a decorative point of view,
they are not worth the trouble and expense entailed
in their cultivation, whilst others produce larger
flowers than any family in the order.

Angrzcums have their leaves arranged in a two-
ranked (distichous) manner, and are quite destitute
of pseudo-bulbs to
support them, so
that it is necessary
to exercise care in
carrying them
through the resting
season; for if not
subjected to a
period of rest, very
few flowers will be
produced, whilst if
it is carried to ex-
cess the leaves will
shrivel and fall off,
thus rendering the
plants naked and
unsightly.

These plants are
all natives of vari-
ous parts of Africa
or the African
Islands, and are all
found in the hottest
latitudes, saving
one or two excep-
tions, such as 4,
falcatum, from
China and Japan,
and A. funale, from
the West Indies.
The latter is a
very curious and
interesting plant,
being both stem-,
less and leafless, the entire organism consisting of a
mass of cord-like roots, from the centre of which
it produces flowers. They all enjoy sun, air, and
light to the fullest extent. The larger kinds succeed
best under pot culture; the smaller ones thrive
better in hanging baskets or on blocks of wood;
indeed, the requirements of Angracums are about
the same as already laid down for the culture of
4érides. East Indian House for all the species except
A. faleatum, and this thrives best in the Peruvian
House.

A. Chailluanun.— This handsome and distinct
species is named in honour of M. du Chaillu, who
found it when on one of his celebrated gorilla expe-

FLOWER OF A. VIRENS (natural size).

ditions. The leaves are distichous, leathery in tex-
ture, six to eight inches long, and upwards of an inch
broad ; unequally two-lobed at the apex, and deep
green; racemes axillary, about the same length as
the leaves; flowers white, and bearing a very long
yellowish-green spur. May and June. Gaboon
and Nun rivers, Western Africa.

A. citratum.—An elegant small-growing plant. The
leaves are from
three to six inches
long, oblong lanceo-
late, with an acute
point and con-
tracted base, bright
shining green on
the upper side, paler
beneath; raceme
from six to twelve
inches long, many-
flowered ; flowers
closely set, nearly
an inch across,
white, suffused with
pale citron-colour;
spur short, pale
yellow. Spring
months. Madagas-
car.

A. eburneum.—
A large bold-grow-
ing species, which,
under the name of
A. superbum, the
late Mr. Ellis de-
scribes as so abun-
dant on the out-
skirts of the forests
on his journey from
Tamatave to Anta-
nanarivo, the capi-
tal of Madagascar ;
plant erect; leaves
distichous, from one to two feet in length, some-
times more ; bright light green in colour; spike erect,
as long or longer than the leaves; flowers about two
inches in diameter; sepals and petals light green ; lip
large, ivory-white, tinged with green at the base.
January to March. Madagascar.

A, eburneum, var. virens.—A. plant similar in habit,
but somewhat less robust than the species, from
which it is easily distinguished by its intense deep

“green leaves; sepals and petals green, as also is the

spur; lip white, tinged with green.
March. Madagascar. :

A. Eilisii.—This species was introduced by the
late Rev. W. Ellis, to whom we are indebted for so

January to

ORCHIDS. 91

many beautiful plants from that wonderful island
he loved so well. The leaves are distichous, about a
foot long, upwards of two inches wide, lobed at the
apex, dark green above, paler beneath; spikes eighteen
to twenty-four inches long, arcuate, many-flowered,
pure white, very sweet-scented; spur straight, slender,
some six inches or more long, buff-coloured; the
petals are much reflexed, and the side view of the
flower presents a very striking likeness to a cockatoo
with its crest up. Spring months. Madagascar.

A, Kotschyi—aA plant similar in habit to the
preceding ; the leaves, however, are broader, and
not lobed at the apex; racemes long and pendulous,
many-flowered; flowers ivory-white; spur very
long, much twisted, and reddish-brown in colour.
October and November. Eastern Africa.

A. sesquipedale, an erect-growing, handsome species,
producing enormous flowers. Mr. Ellis, who first
introduced it in a living state, says respecting it :—
“Angrecum sesquipedale does not grow in the moist
and thickly-wooded parts of the lower districts of
the island, but generally on the straggling trees
along the edges of the forests.” ‘“ Itseemed to erow
most freely where there was plenty of light and air.”
“Tn its native state, the plant most frequently pre-
sented a starved appearance and straggling habit.
In this state the flowers were abundant, and deeper
in creamy colour than when growing in the shade.”
Again he says:—“ The largest plants were found
about twelve or twenty feet from the ground, and
smaller ones often higher up; but I once found the
trunk of a tree lying quite rotten on the ground, and
Angracum sesquipedale growing at intervals along its
entire length. The roots, which had penetrated the
decayed vegetable fibre of the tree, were compara-
tively white, short, and fleshy; the leaves larger,
of a darker green, and more succulent; but there
were no flowers.” This latter remark proves the
necessity of a short season of rest to produce flowers.
Under cultivation, this grand species has produced
flowers as large, or even exceeding the dimensions
which its name records. Leaves two-ranked, closely
imbricating at the base, broadly oblong, about a foot
long, bluntly lobed at the apex, intense deep green
in colour; peduncles axillary; two to five-flowered;
flowers pure ivory-white, in some varieties becoming
creamy, measuring six to seven inches across, and its

long greenish spur upwards of a foot in length ; sepals

and petals nearly equal in size, broad at the base,
and tapering upwards to a point; the lip is ovate,
and also pointed, slightly serrate on the edges.
Madagascar.

Other species of Angraecum, most of them of
recent introduction, and all bearing white flowers,
are A. eryptodon, descendens, fastuosum, fuscatum, and
modestum, all from Madagascar; 4. caudatum,

erenatum, and Hichlerianun, from Western Africa ;

and A. Scottianum and 4. Leonis, from the Comoro
Islands.

Anguloa.—.A genus of terrestrial plants, con-
taining but a few species, all of which are, however,
well deserving the attention of lovers of orchids.
They are named in honour of Angulo, « famous
Spanish naturalist, and produce large, stout, erect
pseudo-bulbs, which attain a height of six to nine
inches ; leaves usually in pairs, some twelve to
eighteen inches long, broad and plaited; scape
produced from the base of the pseudo-bulb, about
one foot long, erect, leafy, bearing on the summit
a single large and fleshy flower.

Anguloas like deep shade, and should be potted
in rough peat and sphagnum moss. When grow-
ing they enjoy an abundant supply of water to
the roots, and the atmosphere should also “be well
charged with moisture; but it is during this stage
only that such a moist regimen holds good. After
the pseudo-bulbs are finished, avoiding any sudden
changes, the supply must be gradually withheld if
the plants are to thrive. Peruvian House.

A. Clowesii—This is the most robust of the known
species. The flowers come up with the young shoots,
and expand when the growth is about half com-
pleted. The scapes bear one large and Tulip-like
flower, which is rich yellow in colour, with the
perfume of a medicine-chest. On account of the
great substance of the sepals and petals, the flowers
last a long time in perfection. June and July.
Columbia.

A. eburnea.—Less robust in growth than the
preceding, but similar in appearance; pseudo-bulbs
deep green; flowers large, pure white, in some
varieties slightly dotted with pink on the labellum.
June and July. New Grenada.

A. Ruckerii—The pseudo-bulbs of this grand
species are some three or four inches high, oblong-
ovate, deep green. The broad flag-shaped leaves are
light green; flowers large; sepals and petals rich
brownish-orange, plain outside, but the inner surface
profusely spotted with crimson ; lip greenish-yellow.
June and July. Columbia.

A. Ruckerii, var. sanguinea.—Rather less robust in
habit than the typical plant, but producing flowers
equally as large. These are tawny-yellow or
greenish on the outside, but inside the sepals and
petals are of a uniform deep blood-colour. June
and July, Columbia.

A. uniflora—tThis is the smallest species of the
genus yet introduced. The flowers are very beauti-
ful, being pure white or creamy white, spotted with
pink. In some varieties the spotting is very pro-
fuse. June and July. Columbia.

92 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS.

By Dr. Maxweut T. Masters, F.R.S.

NUTRITION.—ROOTS AND ROOT-STOCKS.
ROM what has been said in previous chapters,
it will be evident that the popular concep-
tion of a root is widely different from that enter-
tained by
the botanist.
To the ordi-
nary obser-
ver any por-
tion of the
plant that is
beneath the
soil is a root.
But, quite ir-
respectively
of the acci-
dent of po-
sition, the
botanist re-
cognises the
root as a dis-
tinct organ
by its exter-
nal confor-
mation and
internal
structure, by.
its mode of
growth, and
more espe-
cially by the
work that it
has to do.
There are,
however, cer-
tain organs
more or less
intermediate
between
roots and ;
stems, and to
some extent
having the
properties of both, to which a few words may with
advantage be at this point devoted.

- /

Root-stocks.—Closely allied, indeed, both in
structure and in function to the bulbs, tubers, and
other underground developments of which mention
has already been made, are the “rhizomes” or
‘‘root-stocks,” or, as they are sometimes called, the
“stocks.” It is impossible to draw any sharply-
defined line of definition between these and the pre-

Fig, 36.—Subterranean Stem of Carex, with shoots produced in succession during four
years, and giving off roots from the under surface.

ceding organs on the one hand, and roots taken in
general sense on the other, nor in this place is it at
all necessary to attempt to do so. They vary in
form in different plants, and serve as means to dis-
criminate between different species, on which ac-
count alone they should be carefully noted by the
student, while as furnishing indications for appro-
‘ priate modes

of cultiva-

tion they are

of the high-

est import-

ance. Gene-
rally, they

are under-
ground
stems or
branches,

more or less
elongated
vertically or
horizontally,

or develop-
ments of the

— caulicle (see
Vol. I, p.
87); usually
rather thick,
sometimes
slender;
branched, or
rarely un-
branched;
having no
true leaves
underground
but merely
little mem-
branous
scales, which
represent
leaves in an
undeveloped
and = fune-
tionless con-
dition. They
give off true root-fibres, and therefore are often con-
founded with roots; but, apart from other distinc-
tions of minute structure and mode of growth, it
may be pointed out that, as a rule, no true root pro-
duces leaves or even leaf-scales. The root-stocks
frequently produce a tuft of leaves at the upper end
or “crown,” as may be seen in a Strawberry plant,
in the Carrot, or in the common Plantain (Plantago).
The gardener’s term “parting the root” applies to
the subdivision of the crown of the rhizome. P7

ie ae

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS. 98

this mode of propagation one or more buds are sepa-
rated from the parent stock and form new plants.
“Parting the root,’ then, is only another way of
taking cuttings.

Another form of root-stock is exemplified by what
gardeners call “ creeping roots,” as in the common
Bindweed (Convolvulus) or the Couch-grass (TZriti-
cum repens). Why these are not strictly roots will
be understood from what has already been said.
Such forms of rhizome are an unmitigated nuisance
tothe gardener and farmer. There are, however, in-
stances where this mode
of growth is very advan-
tageous, as on sandy sea-
shores or dunes, where
these so-called creeping
roots render inestimable
service in partially fixing
the sand and preventing
its dispersal over the
neighbouring country.
By their means, planting
with Broom,
Furze, and
other plants,
to act as
nurses for
valuable
Pines, _be-
comes possi-
ble, and thus
what were
once barren
wastes may
be converted
into most pro-
fitable land.
This affords
an excellent
illustration of the value that accrues from the study
of the mode of growth of the commonest weeds. We
are all to apt to despise these weeds rather than to
utilise them and turn them to advantage, as we
might readily do.

Root-stocks, like bulbs, afford characteristic ex-
amples of the “ indefinite” and “ definite ’” modes
of growth (see Vol. I., page 298). In the common
Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum multiflorum) we have
a long, thick, horizontal root-stock, terminated by
« stalk, which ascends to bear leaves and flowers,
and which is the real termination of the stem.
The horizontal growth is carried on by a bud
formed at the side near the tip of the root-stock, and
which bud itself ends in an inflorescence the follow-
ine season. In other cases the growth is “ indefi-
nite” because the root-stock ends in a leaf-bud,

Fig. 37.—Root-stock of Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum multiflorum), giving off roots
from the under surface and shoots from the upper side,

which continues the horizontal growth below
ground, the leaves and flowers being borne on
axillary buds produced from the side of the root-
stock, and thrust up into the light and air—ey.,
Primrose, Couch-grass. It must be remembered
that the terms definite and indefinite in these cases
refer to the order and direction of growth, and not to
time, and this is the more important to be borne in
mind in that most of these plants with root-stocks are
what are called ‘herbaceous perennials.” Their
growth in a particular direction may be checked, or
it may not be, but in
either case the duration
is limited. The young
shoots die: down in
winter, not, however,
before provision has
been made for the future
by the development of
new buds from the flanks
or end of the stock,
which new buds will re-
‘main dor-
mant through
the winter,
to start in-
to renewed
growth the
following
season, as
we have seen
to be the
case with
bulbs. While
growth is
thus provided
for at or near
one end of
the stock, it
generally happens that decay and death of the older
portions at the opposite end occur, and thus it hap-
pens that by the onward march of the new and the
decay of the old parts, the plant actually changes its
position in course of time.

The conditions of growth above alluded to furnish
the explanation of the directions so generally given
to “ part or divide the roots,” or to transplant every
two or three years certain kinds of herbaceous per-
ennials.

The Root.—Coming now to the consideration of
the root proper as an organ of absorption—“ feeding-
roots” as the gardener appropriately terms them—
we may pass over as unimportant in the present
connection all the varied forms of roots described in
books. We may ignore in practice the distinction

94 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

drawn by botanists between “true roots,” or such as
are the direct prolongations or branches of the
radicle of the seedling, and ‘adventitious roots,” or
those which are developed only indirectly from the
seedling plant, and are produced from the stem, in
some cases from the leaves or other parts of the
plant. The distinction between “ tap-roots,” as of a
radish (Fig. 38), in which the body of the root or of
the root-stock is relatively large, being developed

Fig. 38.—Tap-root of Radish.

as a holdfast, or as a store-place for nutritious
matters, and the fibres are comparatively few, and
“ fibrous roots,” as those of a grass (Fig. 39), though
important from the point of view of form and classi-
fication, is less so from that of physiology, because
in both cases the essential portions, so far as regards
work, are the root-fibres or feeding-roots, and of
these the ultimate subdivisions only. The feeding-
root, apart from all less important and variable
characteristics, may be looked on physiologically as
a mere thread of cellular tissue. Ina simple form
we meet with such a root in the common Duckweed
of our ponds, Lemna (Fig. 40), but even this is not the
least complex form in which the root exists, for from
the surface of many roots just above their tips are pro-

duced hairs of extreme tenuity, consisting only of a
single cell, each one of which exercises the function
of absorption, and is in this sense a perfect rooi.
We must distinguish then between “root-hairs”
and “root-fibrils.” Root-hairs, though very general,
are not of universal occurrence; root-fibrils are
always present, and though sometimes destitute of
hairs, generally give origin to them. The root-
fibril, or ultimate subdivision of the root, may be
looked on in all cases as a-mere thread of cellular
tissue, growing in length by rapid subdivision of the
constituent cells, not exactly at the tip, but just
above it. Here it isa mere aggregation of minute,

Fig. 39.—Fibrous Roots of Grass.

closely-packed, globular cells, rich in protoplasm,
and therefore highly endowed with vital activity.
Above, some of the globular cells show a tendency to
lengthen and to become progressively modified into
wood-cells and vessels, The extreme tip is very
generally guarded by a little cap, which may be
seen by the naked eye in the Duckweed, but usually
requires the use of a powerful magnifying-glass to
detect it. This cap fits on to the tip of the slender
root-fibre like a thimble on the point of a finger.
This illustration, however, would be very misleading
without further explanation. The thimble is put
on the finger, but has no connection with it; the
root-cap is the direct production of the tip of the
root itself, some of the cells of which are told off

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS. 95

to form this protective shield. The active growing
point, then, is just within or above this shield,
protected by which the roots extend, while as growth
goes on, numerous root-hairs, as before explained,
issue from the sides of the roots and constitute the
most important agents of absorption.

The essential office of a root is to take up from
the soil, or air, or water in which it is growing suffi-
cient liquid to supply the requirements of the plant,
to effect the necessary solution of inert or insoluble

+ Fig. 40._Simple Fibrous Roots: Duckweed.

matter, and provide for the loss occasioned by evapo-
ration. How it does all this we shall shortly con-
sider. It is only necessary to recall the fact that,
though this is the essential work of the root, other
duties are performed by it, such as the storage of
food before referred to, and the fixation of the plant
in the soil. How the tiny root-fibres penetrate the
ground, wriggle their way among and between the
particles of soil, round some obstacles and over others,
has been alluded to under the head of Germination
(Vol. I., p. 86), where also the marvellous sensitive-
ness of the tip of the root to various impressions has
been mentioned. Perhaps there is nothing more
wonderful in the whole of vegetable physiology than
these evidences of life, verging even upon intelli-
gence, in the fine thread-like tips of the roots. And

all this marvellous activity and sensibility to impres-
sions is manifested by the protoplasm of the cells, to
which reference was made in the last section.

The explanation of the necessity for careful ground
operations, such as trenching, digging, hoeing, stir-
ring, for appropriate potting-soils, and the like, is
surely afforded by the wonderful life-history of the
root-fibrils.

Root-action. — Supposing all the conditions
favourable—the soil neither unduly loose nor un-
duly compact, its temperature neither too high nor
too low, its texture permeated with air, moist but not
sodden—root-action at once begins. The general
conditions, in « word, are much the same as those

ie,

Fig. 41._Section through a Root, showing the tip, 0, covered
by the root-cap, 8; above are seen, on either side, the
root-hai

which are necessary in the case of the germination
of the seedling plant. (See Vol. I., pp. 23, 24.)

By growth near the tip beneath the sheltering
root-cap, the root-fibres are thrust in between the
particles of soil, as it were, in search of moisture,
and having found it, the root-hairs are produced in
abundance to make the most of it. Gardeners well
know and appreciate the dense cobwebby masses
which are produced on vine-roots in a properly-
made border, and which may, indeed, be seen in
most cases where the roots are in a moist food-sup-
plying medium, though there are some plants in
which these hairs are never produced.

How the Roots Feed.—aAll being ready, the
action commences. And now what happens? Our

96 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

forefathers thought that roots had mouths, that
they opened them when there was a prospect of
a meal, and closed them when the supplies were
not forthcoming. Later on the supposed open
mouths gave place to equally supposititious sponges
at the tips of the roots, and even now gar-
deners talk freely about “spongioles,” as if it were
quite certain that such organs existed and that they
sucked up the moisture from the soil just as a
sponge does. Even as an illustrative metaphor this
is utterly incorrect, for, unfortunately for this
theory, it is now definitely ascertained that there are
no such organs, and that moisture is not absorbed
into the plant in the same way as water into a sponge.
We know now that the tip of the root is covered by
an impenetrable root-cap of dead tissue, that there are
no openings whatever at or near the tip of the root,
at least none that are visible; that therefore solid
matters, however fine, cannot be absorbed by the
root. What then is absorbed? The answer to this
question is— Water.

What the Roots Feed on.—Water.—It isa
prevalent error to suppose that the soil always
contains plant-food ready for immediate use. It
may do so sometimes and in small proportions,
but the general state of things is just the re-
verse. People have come to look on the soil
as a great soup-kettle; in which masses of solid
matter are plunged in nutritive juices, like pieces of
meat or vegetable in a basin of broth, and they
imagine that all the roots have to do is just to suck
up the good things thus provided for them. The
soil does indeed contain earthy and saline ingre-
dients, as well as carbonaceous and other matters
suitable for plant-nutrition, but for the most part in
an insoluble or inert condition, so that they require
special modification before they can be turned to
account.

Water, however, exists in all soils in more or less ~

abundance. It is more or less impregnated with air,
and contains a minute proportion of saline matter
in solution, As it is the primary requisite of the
plant, so it is absorbed with proportionate avidity.
But if there are no open mouths, no pores, no spon-
gioles, if the roots and root-hairs present to the
wator an unbroken surface, it may be asked how the
water becomes transferred from the soil into the
root. That it does so is beyond question; it is ap-
parent to every one, and every one acts on the belief.
Common experience places the matter beyond dis-
pute, and the demonstrations of the chemist, however
neatly and cleverly they may be devised, are in so far
superfluous, When it comes to the question how the
transfer is effected, then common observation fails to
supply an answer, and we must avail ourselves of the

aid of the scientist. From him we learn by what
simple, yet none the less wondrous, means the matter
is accomplished. The water having an affinity, as
chemists say, for the cell-membrane, wets it, soaks
its constituent particles, elbows them out of the way,
if the metaphor may be allowed, and so makes its
way through and between them till it gains the in-
terior of the cell, and there diffuses itself amid the
denser particles of the fluids within., In other
words, the water passes from without to within the
cell by the operation of the process of “ osmosis”
previously referred to. The circumstances that
regulate osmosis have been carefully studied by
physicists and chemists, but it is unnecessary to
refer to them here further than to say that the pro-
cess essentially depends on the varying physical
nature of the two fluids, on the nature and condi-
tion of the intervening membrane, the temperature,
and atmospheric pressure. '

By far the largest part of all plants consists of
water. Juicy plants, like Lettuce, may contain as
much as 90 per cent., the hardest wood when felled
not less than 40 per cent. (Warington.) Without
water the protoplasm could not fulfil its office,
without it the plant would be reduced to an inert
mass, with no more life in it than in the drawers
and bottles in a druggist’s shop with their varied
contents. The machinery would be there, the fuel
would be there, the raw material would be there,
but for want of the water the machinery would be
at rest, the fuel would be useless, the raw material
would remain raw. Water, then, is essential to
plants; to secure an adequate supply of it is the
main office of the root, and it effects this by the pro-
cess of osmosis. The actual quantity of water taken
up is not necessarily an index of the amount’ re-
quired, for plants may take up more than they
actually require, having the means, as we shall here-
after see, of disposing of the surplus. Still, it is
evident that the elimination of this surplus is so
much labour wasted.

‘Watering.—There is probably no one operation
of practical gardening that demands more discretion
in ils performance, and gets less, than this matter of
watcring. Plants vary extremely in the extent of
their requirements, according to their structure and
hereditary qualities. One wants « great deal, an-
other does with a scanty pittance. The same plant
at one season requires a thorough soaking, at an-
other period it is best kept without any. If the
temperature be high and the light intense, much may
be required; if the opposite conditions prevail, the
supply of water must be curtailed in proportion.
The tendency of inexperienced gardeners and
amateurs is to water all plants in all seagons and

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS. 9?

under all conditions in equal amount. A jobbing
gardener will soak a Primrose, whose sere and
yellow leaves and “knotting”? bud ought to show
him that nothing is required but to let the plant
alone for a season; he will pass over with a scanty
modicum a plant whose rapidly-growing shoots and
expanding foliage should be enough to proclaim the
necessity for abundant supplies.

To water plants properly, demands not only obser-
vation but intelligent judgment. The circumstances
to be taken into account are, among others, the con-
dition of the atmosphere as to heat and light, the
nature of the soil as to drainage and moisture, the
texture of the plant, the thickness or tenuity of
its leaves, the nature of its covering, thin and ex-
posed, leathery, or coated with hairs or waxy exuda-
tion; the condition of the roots, whether they are
near the surface, or at a considerable depth below it,
whether there is an abundance of fine fibrous feed-
ing-roots or whether there are comparatively few,
whether the root or other part of the plant has or has
not a store of liquid to draw upon in case of need,
and so forth.

Again, plants in rapid growth necessarily make
greater demands on their food-supplies than they
do when at rest; hence, while it may be good prac-
tice to give plenty of water during the growing
period, it is almost always advisable to lessen the
amount during the flowering season; and although
more water may again be required when the
fruit is ripening, little or. none is requisite for
the proper maturation of the seed. Newly trans-
planted trees or shubs require very cautious watering
according to circumstances. On the one hand, they
must never be allowed to become dry; but on the
other hand, they may suffer from supplies in excess
of what, in their relatively enfeebled condition, they
can properly digest or rid themselves of. The
general conditions of temperature and light with
reference to the amount and frequency of watering
need only to be mentioned, for the importance of a
due consideration of these factors must be obvious to
every one. One pitfall, however, may be pointed
out with a view of preventing the inexperienced
cultivator from being misled by climatic or geogra-
phical facts. A plant, let us say a native of the
Khasya hills, grows in a country where from 500 to
600 inches of rain fall annually, and as one inch of
rain means rather more than one ‘hundred tons of
water per acre, it is quite clear that it would be im-
practicable to give it anything like that amount in
cultivation here. What we wish to show is, that it
would not only not be necessary for us, even if it
were practicable, to give such enormous supplies of
water, but that it would certainly be injurious to do
80, because we could not maintain the concomitant

31

temperature and other atmospheric conditions. On
the other hand, although our own climate, especially
that of our glass-houses, is vastly more moisture-
laden than that of the so-called rainless districts of
Arabia, Scinde, or Peru, yet that circumstance need
not deter the intelligent gardener from undertaking
the cultivation of what plants may reach him from
those localities.

While, therefore, geographical and especially
climatic indications are very valuable to the gar-
dener, they are of less importance for him than the
indications furnished by the construction and ap-
pearance of the plant itself. Up to this time the
indications of the microscope have not been much
employed in the service of the gardener, nevertheless
it is certain that they would in many cases afford
essential aid to the cultivator, by revealing the
natural requirements of the plant as manifested by
its internal structure, a point that we shall have
to consider later on when discussing leaf-action.
Suffice it here to allude to the more obvious external
characteristics. The smaller and finer the root-fibres,
the thinner the texture of the leaves and their
covering, the smaller the size and proportion of the
reserve organs, the more water is likely to be required.
On the contrary, where the reserve organs are largely
developed, as in a Cactus-stem, a bulb, or the pseudo-
‘pulb of an Orchid, where the leaves are thick and
juicy, or covered with a leathery rind, or one covered
with wax, or «u thick felting of hair, there the
amount of water required will be relatively less,
except it may be for a short period when growth is
going on actively. It will be seen that it is not
only the quantity of water to be given which de-
mands attention, but the frequency of the dose and
the time when it should be administered. The
structural hints above given bring this out very
clearly, and show why it is that some plants will
flag directly if their supplies be cut off, while others
as clearly show that they need water only at
relatively long intervals, the supplies stored up in
their tissues being sufficient for the support of life
till some extra demand arises which must be met by
supplies from without.

The Solid Constituents of Plants.— Water,
however, is not the only substance which plants
derive from the soil. Although it may be true that
eight or nine-tenths of a plant consist of water, yet
the remaining one or two-tenths of solid matter have
to be accounted for. They enter the plant through
the roots and through the leaves, from the soil’ and
from the air, not indeed as solids, but either as
liquids or as gases. One of the main duties of the
plant, then, is the conversion of liquid and gaseous
matter to solid substances. Of the solid substances

98 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

in the plant by far the larger proportion consists of
carbon, and this is obtained from the atmosphere
through the agency of the leaves, and,may conse-
quently be passed over till the subject of leaf-action
is dealt with. The other solid matters of which a
plant consists are derived from the. soil by the
agency of the roots. These are earthy or mineral
substances, destitute of nitrogen, or in other cases
containing that important element of plant con-
stitution. By chemical analysis it has been found
that a large number of mineral or nitrogenous
substances exist in plants. Analysis also has shown
that some of these ingredients exist in much larger
quantities than others in the same plant, and that
the quantity of any particular ingredient in the
plant varies with the age and state of growth.
Some parts of the same plant may contain much,
others none at all. Again, while one plant may
contain much of one substance, another may have
little or none, and this even although the plants
may be growing side by side under the same
conditions, and even although they may be very
nearly allied plants. Two grasses for instance,
species of Poa, growing together, and so much alike
that only the practised eye can discriminate them,
have yet a very different chemical constitution so far
as these mineral substances are concerned. Chemical
analysis therefore reveals the existence of numerous
mineral ingredients in the plant, and in varying
proportions: a similar analysis of the soil shows the
source whence they.are derived. . Analysis, however,
does not tell us of what use these matters aré in
the plant, nor what precise proportion of them is
requisite.

Essentials of Plant Dietary.—It is a com-
mon thing to include all the substances found
in plants by analysis as plant-foods, and in text-
books an imposing array of chemical substances
is duly catalogued under the heading “food
of plants.” The heading is misleading in several
ways: it leads the reader to form an exagge-
tated idea of their value, and practically to under-
value, if not to ignore, such infinitely more im-
portant matters as water and carbonic acid gas. It
induces him to consider them, as enumerated, as so
many articles of food; the truth being that as such
they are none of them foods; and, moreover, that
only some of them really enter into the composition
of plant-food, and those in small and variable
proportions, These errors arising from the unchecked
use of chemical analysis may be eliminated by the
study of the practical results of experiment on the
growth of plants, not by asking the chemist to tell
us what remains in his vessels after their contents
have been subjected to fire or to destructive analysis,

but by actually interrogating the plant itself as it is
growing, and by making it tell us what it is doing at
a particular time, and what substances are requisite
to enable it to do so.

This is effected experimentally by growing the

same plant under various conditions, with a large or
with a small proportion of one particular substance,
alone or in combination, or in other cases with none
at all. These procedures are constructive, rather.
than destructive like chemical analysis, and they
illustrate the desirability in all cases of establishing
trial-grounds, or of setting aside part of the garden’
or even a few flower-pots for experimental purposes.
By such means it has become possible to eliminate
from the large quantities of various substances found
in plants, those that are essential and those that
are non-essential, and to ascertain what proportions
of each particular ingredient are most favourable
at various stages of growth and development.
' The essential mineral ingredients found in the
ash of plants, after burning away the more perish-
able matters, are potassium, the basis of potash;
magnesium, the basis of magnesia; calcium, which
stands in like relation to the salts of lime; iron;
phosphorus; and a little sulphur. These, with
water, nitrogen, or ammonia, and carbonic acid, con-
sisting of oxygen and carbon, constitute the food of
plants, or rather the raw materials out of which the
food is made.

Adverting to the mineral matters which remain in
the ash of plants after burning, we have now to in-
quire in what form and in what manner they gain
entrance into the plant. It is certain they do not
enter it as potassium, magnesium, or iron, as the case
may be. Again, it is certain that they do not and
cannot enter the plant in a solid state, and are
not found in the living plant except in combina-
tion with other substances, Thus the potassium
occurs in combination with oxygen, and with cer-
tain acids formed in and by the plant itself, such
as oxalic, malic, citric acids, &c. In like manner
the iron exists in the form of salts; the phosphorus
is united with oxygen, forming phosphoric acid, and
this again is united with various bases to form salts.
The full history of all these matters belongs to
chemistry rather than to physiology, so that we
can only offer here a few considerations as to the
manner in which these salts gain access to the plant.
In the first place, it is necessary to point out that, as
arule, subject to a few exceptions which we need not

stop to consider, these salts do not exist as such in
the soil,

Soils.—It is found by careful experiment, as well
as by the coarser operations of tillage and drainage.
that the mechanical nature of the seil, and its power

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS. 99

of absorbing and retaining water, are in most cases of
much greater importance than its chemical compo-
sition; and hence, while the latter point is not to be
overlooked, nor the agency of manures regarded
as by any means unimportant, yct these are in most
cases secondary to the physical condition of the soil.
The delicate nature of the root-fibrils, their marvel-
lous powers of sensation and movement, also illustrate
this, and show the necessity for a proper relation be-
tween the nature of the root and the porosity of the
soil, its temperature, and power of absorbing water
and various gases, such as ammonia. The care exer-
cised by the gardener in the construction of well-
drained porous vine-borders, and in the selection of
appropriate potting-soil according to the nature of
the plant and the character of its roots, is thus
abundantly justified.

So, too, the character of root-growth and the
amount of root-activity largely depend on the tem-
perature and moisture of the soil. A hot, relatively
dry soil tends to promote succulent growth ; the plant
under such circumstances is under the necessity of
storing water: and those that by peculiarities of struc-
ture resulting from hereditary endowment can do this
will be placed at an advantage. A porous, moist,
warm soil is the most favourable for the development
of fibrous roots and root-hairs, the actual amount of
heat, of course, varying according to different plants.
A hot or water-logged soil would cause the root-fibres
to rot and decay. .A cold one would either not allow
of their formation, or, if formed, it would offer such
obstacles to their penetration that they would be of
little value, and gradually dwindle. The power,
however, that roots have, under such circumstances,
of extending themselves for long distances in search
of a more propitious state of things, is one of their
most noteworthy properties.

Soils consist either wholly or in various degrees
of admixture of one or other of the following

* ingredients :—clay, sand, lime, or decayed vegeta-
ble matter (humus). The clay consists of aluminium
in combination with silicic acid, the sand con-
sists of insoluble silica, the lime exists in the form
of carbonate or phosphate of calcium. But these
substances are rarely pure and unmixed; the clays
usually contain much potash, the sand also may
contain potash, or salts of lime, or iron, accord-
ing to its origin; the lime is usually mixed with clay
or sand, or both. Of the humus, consisting of decayed
vegetable material, we shall have to make special
mention further on. Many of the substances named
as existing in the soil are, under ordinary circum-
stances, insoluble, and hence they are useless in that
form to the plant, while those that are soluble are
apt to be washed out by heavy rains, and to find their
way into the water-courses by natural or artificial

drainage. If the feeding-roots of plants are at hand,
and in an active condition, they may absorb some of
these soluble mattcrs forthwith by the process of
osmosis, as previously explained, and in this way the
nitrates more particularly are taken up.

Solution of Inert Materials.—There still
remain the insoluble matters in the soil, matters
so little, if at all, soluble in water, that the roots
would be unable to absorb them were there not
some means of rendering them soluble. So far as is
known at present, there are two principal methods of
converting the insoluble and inert into the soluble
and useful, one external to the plant itself, by the
agency of bacterial ‘ microbes,” the other dependent
upon the acid secretions of the plant itself. A few
words of explanation may be given in illustration of
both these phenomena.

Bacteria.—Under the general name of “bacteria,”
or the still more comprehensive name of “ microbes,”’
are included a number of different forms, supposed to’
be plants in the simplest stage of development, of ex-
treme minuteness, extreme simplicity of organisation,
but with a prodigious power of multiplication under
propitious circumstances. They not only vary in size
and form, as above stated, but especially in their life-
conditions, the circumstances propitious to some
being indifferent, or even fatal, to others. It is by
the agency of germs of this nature, that various kinds
of fermentation are induced; such as the alcoholic, in
which, after starch has been converted into sugar, a
further change takes place into aleohol and vinegar ;
the lactic, the butyric, &c. So certain diseases, fevers
of various kinds, hy drophobia, diphtheria, cholera, &c.,
have been proved to be connected with, and in many
instances to be absolutely dependent on, these minute
organisms. The proof is obtained by experiment, as
by isolating and cultivating the germs, and thus their
mode of growth and the changes they bring about in
animal or vegetable fluids may be ascertained. On the
contrary, by rigorously preventing their access, or by
destroying them, the changes in question do not take
place, and cannot be made to do so till the microbes
are again allowed access. In all probability we are
but on the threshold of these inquiries, and future

- investigations will reveal that many of the phenomena

which go on in the living plant are essentially con-
nected with these agents. Already it has been shown
(and this is our reason for alluding to them) that
certain of these microbes effect the conversion of in-
soluble and inert nitrites in the soil into soluble and
active nitrates. To explain how they do this would
necessitate a knowledge of chemical details which is
not requisite for our present purpose, which is simply
to point out one way in which inert matters in the

100

soil may be altered in character, taken up and
utilised py the plant. The phenomena also show
very remarkably the interdependence of living or-
ganisms of various natures one upon another, and
upon mineral matters, and they give some hint of
the changes and activity going on in that soil which
the generality of people still look on more especially,
but very erroneously, as an illustration of fixity and
repose.

Solvent Action of the Roots.—Another means
by which insoluble matters in the soil become
taken up by the plant is explained by the solvent
action exercised by the roots themselves. The
tips of the roots above the root-cap, or the extreme
ends of the root-hairs, come into close contact with
the particles of soil, and then
an acid exudation from the
cell takes place, which imme-
diately attacks the particles
of soil, and aided by the water
around it, effects the solution
of the mineral matter which
it contains. The solution is
absorbed as fast as it is pro-
duced, and so none is per-
ceptible in the soil itself. It
is, however, to be noticed that
this acid exudation from the
cell-wall is produced as a
consequence of direct contact
with suitable matter, but not
otherwise, just as the gastric juice in the stomach of
an animal is only produced when the glands which
secrete it are directly stimulated by the presence
of food.

Summary.—So far then as we know at present,
liquid food, or rather liquid materials capable of
being converted into food, are introduced into the
roots of plants in one or other of three ways—by
direct osmotic absorption or diffusion, as in the case
of water and substances dissolved in it; by the agency
of “microbes,” which turn the insoluble into the
soluble; and by the agency of the roots themselves in
furnishing at the right moment, and in the right
quantity, a proper solvent.

The substances introduced into the plant by the
roots are, first and foremost, water; then mineral
matters, of which potash and phosphates are among
the most important, and nitrates, which supply the
nitrogen that is a constant component element of
protoplasm, and hence illustrates the reason why
nitrogenous manures, such as guano, nitrate of

soda, or ammonia-salts, are so valuable in promoting
vegetation.

v

Rock Rose.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.

The Common Rock Rose.—This well-known
British and European plant is Helianthemum vulgare,
the name being derived from the Greek helios, the
sun; and anthemon, a flower. Vulgare means com-
mon, and refers to the prevalence of the plant. It
js also known as the Sun Rose, the Little Sunflower,
and the Dwarf Cistus. lLinneus named it Cistus
helianthemum. Itis to be found in plenty in dry and
hilly pastures, or in chalky or gravelly soil. There
are several species which were introduced from dif-
ferent parts of Europe, and one, at least, from North
America; but the fine varieties which are now found
in cultivation are really very handsome and showy
plants, which are probably seedlings from H. vulgare,
though some are imagined to
be distinct species. They are
well termed a beautiful class
of perennials, and they are
excellent for rough rock-
work, where they can take
root between the stones; also
for banks, edgings, &c., in hot
and exposed situations; they
appear to thrive on any soil,
but show to the greatest ad-
vantage on a chalky one;
the flowers are rather tran-
sient, but produced in such
quantities and so continu-
ously, that tufts are covered
with blossom for a considerable period of the year.
The close, compact, trailing growth particularly fits
them for planting near ledges, where they can hang
down over the front, as in the case of rock-work.
Certain varieties can be increased in the readiest
manner by dividing the roots in the autumn and
spring, or by saving seed and sowing it in the open
ground.

There are a few double varieties that produce large
full flowers of a very showy character, viz., the rosy-
buff, chocolate, sulphur, and yellow. Of single
varieties, the following are well deserving atten-
tion :—

Cecilia, straw and yellow. Oculata.
Garibaldi. Sudbury Gem, rich rose.
Lady Elizabeth. Eee florepleno.
Magnificent, primrose and | Yellow Beauty,

orange,

Lychnis.—This genus comprehends a rather nu-
merous group of hardy herbaceous perennials, a few
of which are very handsome border plants. The name
Lychnis—from Jychnos, a lamp—refers to the bril-
liancy of the flowers. One of the best known is
Lychnis chaleedonica; this is a well-known old border
plant, growing two feet or so in height, and bearing

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS. at

LyYcHNIS CHALCEDONICA.

flower-stems surmounted with a corymb of bright
scarlet flowers that are very showy. One of the com-
mon names of this plant is the Cross of Jerusalem,
from the resemblance of its scarlet petals, both in
shape and colour, to the arms of a Maltese or Jerusa-

lem cross. It is also knownas the Flower of Bristol,
or in all probability, more properly Flower of Bristow,
and also Flower of Constantinople—the latter name
from its growing wild near the Turkish capital, the
former from its colour being “Bristol red,’ as in

102

Skelton’s poem upon Eleanor Rumming, “Her
kyrtle Bristow red.’’ This plant does well in a rich
light loam, and it can be propagated by means of
seed, also by division of the roots. In addition to
the red, there is a white variety, known as L. chalee-
donica alba; and besides these there is the double
scarlet, which is a very fine border flower; and the
double white.also. ‘he two last are best increased
by division of'the roots. Lyehnis dioica flore pleno is
a very handsome and neat border plant, commencing
to bloom in April, and continuing at intervais the
whole.of the summer, especially if the flowering
shoots are picked off as soon as they have done
blooming ; it produces myriads of large double crim-
-son flowers; it is exceedingly fine for cutting, and
most useful for massing, and can be highly recom-
mended as a free-growing hardy border plant.
Lychnis Haageana is, as its name implies, a German
hybrid; a very showy perennial, about one foot in
height, remarkable for its striking flowers nearly two
inches across, of every shade of colour, from brilliant
scarlet to pure white; hardy, and very easily grown,
doing well in any ordinary garden soil. We are unable
to give particulars as to its parental origin, but it was
raised by Mr. Haage, of Erfurt, Germany. It seeds
very freely, and seed is found to produce many fine
varieties. The seed can be sown in the open ground,
This is known by the name of the Shaggy Lychnis,
because the flowers are somewhat divided. L. Lagasce
is the Rock Lychnis, and is a native of the sub-
alpine region of the Western Pyrenees. It is a
pretty plant, forming compact tufts from two to
three inches in height, producing slender stems bear-
ing deep rose-coloured flowers; it makes a very use-
ful and beautiful rock plant, because so free of growth,
from its producing such an abundance of flowers, and
its adaptability for planting on the sunny slopes of
the rock-work. It does well in the open border in a
good loam, and makes a pretty pot-plant. L. Viscaria
is known as the Red German Catchfly, and it is found
in Wales and near Edinburgh; it is also freely dis-
tributed over Europe and Asia. There is a white
variety also, both bearing single flowers. This has
also been produced in double forms, all of which are
fine border flowers; one of the finest of these is Z.
Viscaria splendens plena—one that is totally distinct in
colour and time of flowering. The flowers are very
large and double, of a bright fiery-rose, and arranged
very closely together on erect slender stems. It is
perfectly hardy, very free-flowering, and one of the
best and most useful of perennials, doing well in
garden soil. The old Rose Campion of our gardens is
L. coronaria. There are the white, flesh-coloured,
and deep red varieties, but the latter is mostly grown,
its large ruby-coloured flowers being vory handsome.
There are the double red and double white varieties,

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

but the latter are scarcer, because, unlike the former,
or single types, they cannot be raised from seeds,
Some years ago, a beautiful Lychnis, named Senno,
was introduced from Japan by Messrs. Veitch and
Sons, but it did not succeed in this country, and we
fear it has become almost lost to cultivation.

Trollius, Troll Flower, or Globe Flower.
—The generic name, Z'rollius, is said to have come
from the Swedish troll, or Danish ¢rold, and indi-
cates a malignant supernatural being, a name cor-
responding to the Scotch Witches’ Gowan, and given
to this plant on account of its acrid poisonous
qualities. It is called the Globe Flower from its
form; the flowers are composed of about fifteen
concave petals, which converge into the form of a
globe. The common form, T. europeus, is a large,
handsome plant, common in gardens, and growing
wild in the mountainous parts of Scotland, Wales,
and the North of England. Some very fine and
richly-coloured varieties have been found growing
wild by English botanists. There are a few intro-
duced species, such as 7. asiaticus, the Asiatic Globe
Flower, an introduction from Siberia; the leaves
larger than those of 7. europeus, and of a paler
green, the flowers deep golden-yellow. T. napeili-
folius has been introduced from various parts of
Europe. It is considered by some to be merely a
variety of T. europeus, from which it appears to
differ in its colour, in not being quite so tall, and in
having a greater number of lobes in its leaves.
There are 7’. japonicus, with double flowers, 7. ameri-
canus, and others; and in addition not a few good
scaling varieties have also been raised. But it is
T. asiaticus and T. europeus that are best known in
our gardens.

They are all spring-flowering, and are extremely
showy. They should be planted out in a good, deep,
yellow loam, where they can root freely and deeply ;
at the same time they will do in almost any soil and
situation. But to have large specimens luxuriant in
growth a moist shady spot is the best; and in such a
place they are objects of great beauty; and any one
variety can be increased by division of the roots,
carefully dividing the plants in the autumn, and
placing the divided pigces round the sides of pots
until they have drawn root sufficiently to be planted
out permanently in the open ground. All the
species and varicties are true herbaceous plants,
losing their foliago in the autumn, and breaking up
into fresh growth in spring.

The Poppy (Papaver)—Everybody, we may
reasonably suppose, knows the Common Red Poppy
of our fields, for during summer its rich scarlet
flowers can be seen among the corn; short-lived

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS,

though they are, yet they are extremely gay while
the blossoms endure. This is Papaver Rhaas, the
Field Poppy, and its English names are the Com-
mon Red Poppy, Corn Rose, and Cup Rose, It is
a common British
plant, is of annual
duration, and blooms
abundantly in June
and July. Then there

is the Garden, or
Opium, or White
Poppy, PF. somni-

ferun, and this is not
only regarded as the
type, but the most
important plant of

the family. It is

found in a wild state t
throughout the whole Ne
of Europe, in Egypt, i
and in Asia; and, i

met with apparently
wild in Britain, it is
generally believed to
have been introduced.
at some early period,
probably from some
part of Asia. Itisa
plant of great value
in medicine: Poppy-
heads are the dried
seed-vessels or cap-
sules of this plant.
Tt is in the capsules
that the juice most
abounds, and this
juice, which exudes
after incision, be-
comes dry and hard,
and is then known
by the name of
Opium. The Poppy
is extensively culti-
vated in the Asiatic
provinces of Turkey,
Egypt, Persia, and
India. “ The plants
during their growth
are carefully watered and manured, the watering
being more liberal as the period of flowering ap-
proaches, and until the capsules are half-grown,
when it is discontinued, and the gathering of the
opium commences. The manner in which opium is
obtained is still the same as that practised in the
East centuries before the time of our Saviour. A

though frequently i
4

PaPaVER ORIENTALE.

103

few days after the fall of the fower, men and women
proceed to the fields at sunset, and make horizontal
incisions in the Poppy-heads or capsules, taking
care not to cut so deep as to penetrate their cavity.
A white juice exudes,
‘and appears in the
form of tears on the
edges of the incisions,
and the night dews
favour the exudation
of the juice. The
field is left in this
state for twenty-four
SS hours, after which
the juice is scraped
off with a small iron
scoop or blunt knives.
A portion of the skin
of the capsule is also
| remored, and con-
bE stitutes about one-
twelfth of the whole
product. This opera-
tion is never per-
formed more than
once on each head.
After it is gathered
the opium is put into
small earthen vessels,
and moistened with
saliva, then worked
with a wooden spa-
tule, in the sun, till
it attains a proper
-consistency. It is
then formed into
cakes, and wrapped
in leaves of Tobacco
or Poppy, and sent
into the market.”

(Hoge’s Vegetable
Kingdom.) The cul-
ture of this medicinal

Poppy is carried on
to some extent in this
country. The fine
double Poppies seen
in gardens are se-
lected varieties of
P. somniferum. The Carnation and Peony-flowered
Poppies are forms of these. What is found in
some seed lists as Papaver Danebrog is a small
variety of P. somniferum, bearing scarlet flowers
having a white spot on each petal. The Ranun-
culus or Marseilles Poppies are known as French
varieties, and have been bred up, in all probability,

104 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

from P. Rheas. Some of the double varieties are
very fine indeed. P. umbrosum isa beautiful intro-
duction of medium growth, and flowering very
freely. It has rich vermilion flowers, each petal
having a large black blotch.

There. are some beautiful perennial Poppies, quite
hardy, and well deserving a place in the garden.
P. bracteatwun has large crimson - salver-shaped
flowers, six to eight
inches in width, and it
is very showy indeed.
P. orventale resembles
‘it, but the flowers are
scarlet rather than
crimson. P. nudicaule
is a much smaller-
flowering species, form-
ing tufts of bright yel-
low flowers on slender
stalks about one foot
in height. There is a
white-flowered variety
of this, and « deep
orange form also.
These should be
planted out in well-
manured ground, and
suffered to become
established, and then
they flower very finely
indeed.

The generic name
Papaver is said to be
derived from papa, in-
fant’s food, because
the juice of the plant
was mixed with that
to prevent a child be-
ing wakeful. If so,
we may conclude that
the Anglo-Saxon name
for the plant, Papig,
and our English “ Poppy” had a similar origin.
Theocritus tells us that the Greeks had the custom of
taking a petal of the Corn Poppy, and laying it on the
thumb and forefinger of one hand and slapping it with
the other. If it gave a crack, it was a sign their
lovers loved them ; but if it failed, they lamented their
disappointment. The Drapery Bee (Apis papaveris)
forms the linings of its cells from the petals of the
Poppy, cutting and adapting them to her purpose
most dexterously. The Poppy is one of the plants
the seeds of which, if buried deeply in the soil, will
retain their power of vegetating. many years. Tull
relates an instance of their doing so after being
buried twenty-four years. This explains why no

aS

PAPAVER NUDICAULE.

lengthened fallowing gets rid of this gay weed, and
that scarcely a ripening harvest-field is found in
which we do not see “merry Poppies, all amid the
waving corn.”

The Potentilla.—The common name of the
Potentilla is Cinguefoil, so named both according to
the French cing and feuwilles, and Latin cingue foliola,
so called from its five
leaflets. The generic
name Potentilla is
from potens, powerful,
from its supposed
medicinal quality ; but
with the exception of
Potentilla reptans, or
Creeping Cinquefoil, a
very common British
plant, none of the
species are remarkable
for their products or
properties. The root
of this plant has a
bitterish, styptic,
slightly sweetish taste,
and was formerly useé
in diarrhoea, and other
complaints for which
astringents are usually
prescribed.

There are a large
number of introduced
species of Potentillas,
but the many fine
hybrids now found in
our gardens have, no
doubt, been derived
from the Bloody Cin- *
quefoil, P. atrosan-
guinea, introduced from
Nepaul in 1822. There
is a British species
named P. Fragariastrum, the strawberry-leaved Cin-
quefoil; the leaves greatly resemble those of this
fruit, and it is sometimes termed the Barren Straw-
berry. But this has only three leaflets instead of
five, and it is considered as the connecting link
between the two genera, Fragaria (Strawberry) and
Potentilla.

Nearly all the fine varieties of the present day
have Strawberry-like foliage, and the flowers are
of many rich shades of colour, excepting blue and
purple. Some fine introduced species besiess P. atro-
sanguinea have no doubt proved useful n¢ parents,
but excepting in old botanical gardens such species
are now seldom to be met with. For a lmg time

Pea Peer

THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 195

the flowers were single, now there are many double-
flowered forms, with large Rose-like blossoms, and.
very showy in appearance.

The Potentilla will thrive in almost any soil,
but a good stiff, rather sandy, and well-manured
one suits it exactly. In this the plants will
grow to great size and strength. The Potentilla
is easily cultivated if it only has a suitable soil,
and it is well in the autumn to place some dung
about the plants, which may be lightly forked into
.the surface in early spring, taking care not to
injure the roots. It will flourish in light land
if the plants be mulched
and watered during the
summer.

And the Potentilla can be
propagated by division of
the roots in autumn or
spring, or by taking off
any side growths with
roots attached to them
when they present them-
selves to view. It is the
best plan to do this in the
spring of the year, when
the plants are becoming
active, and if the offsets
can be put into pots they
will root all the more
readily. As the Potentilla
seeds freely, it can also be
increased by sowing seeds,
and in this way new and
improved varieties are obtained. The seed germi-
nates best when sown in shallow boxes or seed-pans
‘soon after being gathered at the end of the summer,
and these placed in a cold frame for the winter. Not
that the seeds vegetate much in the autumn, but
they germinate in early spring, and fine plants can
thus be obtained by the end of the summer for flower-
ing the following year. From this stage the plants
rapidly increase in size, and form rich masses in
beds or borders.

SeLection oF SINGLE-FLOWERED PoTENTILLAS.

Atrosanguinea. Sanguinea aurea.

Golden Cup. Smontii.

Goldfinch. Splendens. _

Harlequin. Striata multifiora.
et.

DovsiE-FLOWFRED POTENTILLAS.

Alfred Salter. Mons. Dondin.
California. Perfecta plena.
Chameleon Phebus.

r. André. Purpurea,

dorado. Toussaint L’Ouverture,
Hamlet. Vase d’Or.
Jane Salter. Versicolor.
Louis van Houtte. Victor Lemoine.

“Madame Rouillard. | William Rollisson.

TomATOEs.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

By Wiutiam Ear.er.

Spinach, New Zealand (Tetragonia expansa).\
—This is a half-hardy annual, received from the
country whence it derives its name. It is of very
robust growth, of recumbent habit, and possessing a
capacity to withstand dry weather. ‘This character-
istic affirms its great usefulness at such seasons, as
the commoner kind is least valuable, owing to its
habit of running so quickly to seed. New Zealand
Spinach, being a half-hardy annual, succeeds best
when sown singly in small
pots, and raised in a frame
or glass structure. Choose
sixty-sized pots, and sow
three or four seeds in each,
to insure that, at least, one
will germinate; should
more than two plants form,
remove the others. Ten
plants will be sufficient,
treated as advised, to give
pickings two or three times
a week during the season.
Double this number should
insure a good supply.
‘When the young plants are
affirmed in growth, harden
them off gradually about
May Ist and onward, by
placing them in a cold
frame for protection, only
giving air freely daily and on warmnights. But shut
the lights down. in cold weather. Prepare a space
for them, consisting of a warm sunny site and light
sandy nature, if possible; work the soil up deeply,
mixing therewith a very liberal quantity ot manure;
such a quantity, in fact, as will raise the soil up
somewhat into ridge-shape. The plants so treated
ordinarily grow to an extent of about two feet apart,
hence abundant room must be given them so to do.
About May 22nd carefully place each plant therein.
Turn each out of the pot, pressing the roots down
firmly into the soil, and water them wellin. During
the months of June and July, when they grow
rapidly, an occasional copious manurial watering will
greatly aid the crop. For use gather the largest
leaves as they form, taking care not to injure the
points of the growing shoots; as such shoots turn
upwards from the otherwise prostrate plants, they
are readily observed, and injury to them is easily
avoided.

Tomato (Lycopersicum esculentein ; syn. Solanun
Lycopersicum). French, Tomate; German, Liebesapfel;

106 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Spanish, Zomate ; Italian, Pomo d’ Oro.—The Tomato,
or “Love-apple,” «a singularly beautiful, bright red
and orange fruit-bearing plant, a half-hardy annual,
and a native of South America, first introduced
into this country in the year 1596, has, like’ the
Jerusalem Artichoke, made, until recent years, slow
progress in public estimation. At the present time,
however, it is gaining in favour, and is become a
standing and popular addition to our culinary comes-
tibles. Its use is very various. Connoisseurs par-
take of the ripe fruits in the uncooked state, whilst
the chef de cuisine turns them to account in a great
variety of ways.
intimate with Tomato ketchup, to say nothing of its
use as a preserve and pickle.

Unquestionably the taste or liking for it is an ac-
quired one, on which basis it is likely ultimately to
become the most popular of any garden product
grown for similar purposes. The plant is a very
robust, enduring one, though its growth as concerns
leaf and branch formation can be advanced to any
degree without the needful resuit of producing good

‘supplies of large and fine fruits. Its being of
free and easy growth as a plant will tend to increase
its culture in the future, especially when culturists can
be made to understand the very simple rules, which
it is necessary to follow in view of insuring abundant
fruitfulness, to which reference will be especially
made.

For the summer crop, sow seeds early in the
month of March. These may be sown in pots,
boxes, or frames, as may be most convenient, as they
germinate and grow very easily. When the young
plants possess two or three rough leaves, pot them off,
putting each into a small-sized single pot, or three
plants in each large sixty-sized pot, at equal dis-
tances apart round its sides. When these have per-
fected a moderate first growth, carefully remove them
from these pots, separate the roots, and pot each by
itself singly into similar-sized pots. Keep the young
plants at all stages of growth where plenty of fresh
air can reach them, and well supplied with water.
Between April 25th and May 2nd arrange to place
the plants in a cool frame, facing full sunshine, giving
air freely except in cold weather, especially during
frosty nights. About May 22nd turn each plant
out of its pot, and plant at the foot of a south-aspect
wall, after having first prepared the ground for them.
They should be planted at distances of ten or twelve
inches apart, on any site where head-room sufficient
exists for them to grow, and be trained in position
for fruiting. The custom is to take advantage of aay
vacant space existing between wall fruit-trees grown
upon such an aspect. Where this is not obtainable
an east-aspect wall or fence should be chosen.

The soil which the Tomato succeeds best in, and

Italian warehousemen, besides, are.

- the only soil, in fact, suited to it, is a light loam of a

sandy nature. A little decayed manure should be
forked into it, and slight mounds should be made
anove this wherein to place the roots. So soon as
planted nail each plant to the wall, make the soil firm
around its’ base, and give a good watering to settle
the soil firmly around the roots. During the next
two months following encourage growth by every
possible means, nailing as many of the shoots as form
to the wall without unduly crowding any. When
the wall is thus filled with the main shoots in such
manner that room for more does not exist, then, and‘
only then, cut away all minor ones, or such as push
up below and unduly crowd any more robust and
needful, ,

Do not, as is so common a practice in this
country, resort to pinching off the points frequently
during the whole period of growth. Such a practice,
the origin of which it is most difficult to determine,
is, to say the least, reprehensible. It checks growth,
often causing such flowers as form to turn “blind”
in the efforts made by a plant of most robust consti-
tution at a renewal of the very growth it is deprived
of. By permitting the plants to grow naturally until
such time as a goodly head has been formed, and
upon that head a plentiful supply of flowers, which
will “set” and form fruit, much more heavy and
abundant crops can be secured than by any such re-
strictive system as above. Even in the gardens of
the Royal Horticultural Society, plants of this kind
have been seen treated probably more harshly than
anywhere, being towards autumn simply stems, two
or three feet in height, with meagre crops. On the
other hand, the writer of these remarks has grown
upon two plants in one nine-inch pot forty-two
pounds weight of fruit, which was verified by
witnesses, who saw a dozen of such pots similarly
laden with fruits; no stopping having been done to
these plants until the month of August.

In America, where this plant is highly valued, and
where its crops are considered already “the most im-
portant of all garden products,” such liberal treat-
ment is more generally practised. Their climate is
better suited to it, certainly, but no effort has yet
been made to follow out their simple process of
culture. They raise plants upon moderate hot-beds,
transplant them on the same, and finally transplant
the young seedlings on to mounds of sandy soil,
having a ‘“‘spit”’ of good manure placed under each.
The distance between these hills is from three to
five fect. The object here is to expose the base of
the haulm of the plant to the utmost heat of the
sun constantly, and to keep it somewhat dry. |

Yet another important fact in connection with this
plant has been entirely overlooked in practice. It is,
that naturally it is of recumbent habit of growth;

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

and where it is practicable, I strongly advise that the
young haulms as they grow when planted at the base
of warm walls be trained, ‘by the usual process of
nailing, horizontal, or as nearly horizontal as pos-
sible. Where convenient walls or fences do not exist
against which to train them, they may be planted
as near to such an aspect as possible, and be
permitted to grow over slates or trellis-work. A
mulching of straw placed around them would be be-
neficial, as it would neutralise the ground-damp and
coldness, whilst not depriving the plants of any direct
solar heat. Where the recumbent form cannot be
practised, they may be grown in a row as near toa
warm sunny aspect as possible, tied and trained to
stakes.

Another very excellent and practical way is to
grow the plants on in pots until of goodly size, then
give a shift into large pots, placing the pots on any
elevation, such as the bottom of a vine border, having
a falling bank-front, in such manner that the plants
can grow down upon its sides. The pots, in this in-
stance, should not be crocked, however, and the
bottom of each should be placed upon rich soil, in
such manner that the lowermost roots can penetrate
into the rich soil below, which they will do with re-
markable results as regards cropping. Often very
valuable sites of this kind exist in gardens in con-
nection with soil and manure heaps, which could be
turned to good account in the production of Toma-
toes, but which thus far have been utilised for
Vegetable Marrows, or nothing at all.

House-grown or “ forced’? Tomatoes are become a
general mid-winter and early spring luxury, the pro-
duction of which has been thus fara profitable indus-
try when undertaken for marketing purposes. Low
span-roofed houses, and all similar ones adapted for
Cucumber-growing, are excellent for this purpose,
permitting of the plants being grown somewhat after
their natural habit. Planted with young plants
during the midsummer season, when the Cucumber
crop is past, or Cucumbers are at a discount, they are
pushed on to produce very early crops of fruit before
the houses are again wanted for Cucumbers, and are
sold at a high price per pound.

Cultivated varieties of the red-fruited kind have
been very greatly improved of late years. culminating
in such highly meritorious varieties as Excelsior,
Paragon, Trophy, Stamfordianum, &c., to which
further advances are yearly being added. That
named Greengage, and indeed Golden Trophy, are
great advances on the old *‘ Large Yellow ” in its pecu-
liar colour, &c. The Red Cherry and Red Currant
varieties are very ornamental, besides being useful,
though, as regards the latter, in far less degree than
the whole of those which precede them above.

Suitable varieties for general culture are :—

107

Acme, Hathaway’s, Sutton’s Perfection, President
Cleveland, Prelude, Horsford’s Chiswicke Red, May-
flower, Paragon, Eclipse, and Golden Queen.

Turnip (Brassica Rapa). French, Navet ; Ger-

man, Speise-Rtiben ; Spanish, Nobo comun ; Italian,
Navone.—The Turnip is a British plant, grow-
ing wild in its normal form in many districts, pos-
sessing little or no resemblance to the cultivated
varieties better known, probably, to many. The
French Turnip or Navet is not, when observed
also in its really normal form, identical with this
.British species, Brassica Rapa, but is really a dis-
tinct species, named Brassica Napus, or, in other
words, esculentim, an edible variety of the well-known
Rape. Sufficient for this purpose is it, however, that
we deal with the Turnip as generally known and un-
derstood, both British and French. It succeeds best
in free strong soil or sandy loam which has been
exposed to winter frosts, &c., and but’moderately en-
riched. Larger roots may be produced upon stiff,
more highly enriched land, but these are wanting in
that peculiar solidity which is a sure attendant of
free flesh and excellence of flavour. Those who
would succeed in the latter particulars, therefore,
must choose such soils as are suggested, and always
upon most fully-exposed sites. To attempt to grow
this and all similar surface-bulbing vegetables in
shaded situations, or in too immediate contact with
crops of taller stature, confined spaces, &c., is to
insure unsatisfactory results.

In gardens and for household uses periodical
sowings are needful, by which means a succession of
tender produce can alone be insured, though for the
main winter supply a much larger breadth should be
sown and grown than for any other.

With soil aérated by winter exposure, and slightly
manured at any time previously, preparations for the
first sowing within any given year must be under-
taken during the third or fourth week in the month
of March. Slightly fork over the surface of the soil
which has lain in fallow, roughly breaking down all
lumps, &c. Rake the surface over well, to level it
and to remove all large stones, &c., and sow the
seeds broadcast. Thick sowing, or rather thick
growing, is always to be avoided. Owing, however,
to the predilection birds have for the seeds, the former
is a necessity. Choose at all times a dry day for the
operation, when the surface soil is also moderately
dry. After the seeds are sown, push a rake to and

_fro over the ground, to duly cover the seeds with soil,
making every effort possible to keep off small birds
until germination has been effected. Make yet other
small sowings about the middle of April and during

‘ the third week in May. These spring sowings seve-
rally only produce moderate-sized bulbs, as the plant

108 ,

is exceptionally impatient of heat and drought; it
rapidly runs off to seed, a fact which, once perpe-
trated, entirely destroys the crop and its usefulness.
For the main crop a large bed should be sown about
July 12th, and where Turnips are required constantly,
as young and as fresh as possible, make another mode-
rate sowing about August 11th. I have given in
general terms the kind of soil most suitable. Where
‘some slight variations are admissible, or forced on
the cultivator, it will be preferable to give the richest
and best soil to the July sowing, the warmest site to
the March sowing, and the stoniest and lightest to
the August sowing. So soon as the young crop has
four or five young leaves, forming or formed, be
quick to hoe freely amongst them, and in process of
hoeing to chop them out, which is another .mode of
expressing the peculiar practice of thinning they are
subject to. This must be done very decisively, as
loss, rather than gain, accrues to any attempt at
‘having a large crop, so far as number is concerned.
Any that are left too thickly growing together will
form but a small and indifferent bulb, whereas
plentiful thinning out will insure a quicker and an
immensely better produce. In view of this it is im-
material whether the seeds be sown in rows or broad-
cast, the latter being preferable, both in the matter
of quick sowing, and simplicity as regards thinning
the young plants out. When drill-row sowing is
practised the drills should be eight inches apart, and
the young plants thinned out to the same distances
apart in the rows. Limited distances apart all ways
will also suffice for broadcast sowings.

' The very troublesome insect known as the Turnip-
fly, or black flea (Haltica nemorwn), and club-root
‘being natural enemies of the plant, certain precau-
tions are sometimes to be recommended in regard to
them. The former is subject to no particular season
or place, though during rainy seasons the young
plants are enabled to advance so rapidly as to grow up
beyond their power of vital injury. During dry hot
‘seasons, on the contrary, it is often very difficult to
secure a crop owing to their ravages upon the minute
seedling plants at the moment when they come
through the ground and subsequently. Club-root, on
the other hand, is more partial to some soils and
situations than others; so much so that where it
exists habitually its attacks are anticipated.

To neutralise the injurious results arising from both
these enemies drill-row sowings are te be preferred.
When the drills are drawn a probable antidote for
the fly consists in steeping the seeds in sulphur-
water, so managed as to insure some of the sulphur
adhering to the seeds when subsequently taken out
and sown. Another aid is to sow equal parts of soot
and lime over the seeds when sown in the drills be-
fore covering them in. For club-root, lime and

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. ;

a

wood-ashes sown along the drill-rows before the
seeds are sown have beneficial results. Thin sow-
ings of soot or lime broadcast over the bed when
the plants are coming up, is also known to do good.
Plants are more liable to clubbing when seeds are
sown upon newly-manured ground than upon such
as has lain a month or two in fallow, and is there-
fore better aérated, and hence “ sweeter.”

The Turnip produces a.dual crop. The young
growing shoots, when they push up in seed-stalk form
in the early spring, prove a very tender green vege-
table, which is greatly valued by many. As, how-
ever, the main winter crop is generally used before
the season for spring growth takes place, and it is
not desirable to use valuable bulbs for this purpose,
dependence is placed upon the August sowing, or
the remnant of plants not used therefrom, to supply
such “ Turnip-greens” in the early spring. Any
sized plant which has passed through the winter un-
injured, whether it has a base or Turnip proper at its
root or not, will furnish a crop’ of tops, and may
be relied on to furnish a supply. The moment any
portion of any crop shows symptoms of going to
seed it becomes useless for culinary purposes; hence,
save when “greens” are required, or real seeds are
to be grown and perfected, it will be necessary to im-
mediately pull the crop up, else will the ground be
robbed of its richness to a very considerable extent.

For the winter supply, the July-sown, matured crop
is best taken up and stored away beyond the reach
of frost. The best way to do this is to draw each
bulb, cut off the leaves and their foot-stalks, but do
not injure the root-base, then clamp them in the open
ground precisely as Potatoes are clamped; they keep
longer fresh and tender thus treated than in any other
way. Many varieties are offered in seed form.
Early Stone is excellent for the first spring sowing.
For general garden crops the American, or “ Strap-
leaved,”’ is not excelled. For deep soil the Long
White or Cow-horn variety is well adapted.

Excellent varieties for general culture are:—Early
Red American (Strap-leaf), Milan Strap-leaf, Black
Stone, White Globe, Green Top Stone, Early Snow-
ball, and Early Paris Market (oblong).

Vegetable Marrow (Cucurbita Pepo ovifera).
French, Courge d manger ; German, Ktirbiss ; Spanish,
Calabasa Tontanera.—The peculiar fruiting plant,
which has gained so much popularity in this country,
especially in towns, known commonly as Vegetable
Marrow, is properly a Gourd, owing its English
name to some fancied or real merit the fruits possess
when cooked. In America they are known by the
name of Squash; the ripened fruits often receive
also the name of Pumpkin, and are utilised by the
lower classes as pie-fruit, &c.

THE ROSE AND

Probably antecedent and erroncous practice, as re-
gards the culture of any imported plant, has never
obtained so firm a footing as in regard to this one.
Within the arca of gardens, it was, when first intro-
duced, treated as a tender or semi-tropical plant, and
received cultural aid and consideration in all ways
similar to the Cucumber. This practice still finds
hosts of followers; mounds of manure and fer-
menting materials being far too generally employed
in connection with its culture. That this is an erro-
neous practice we need not go farther than the open
fields to affirm, where the immense quantities sent
into the metropolis and all large towns are freely
produced by ordinary field culture pur et simple, good
dressings of manure being, as a matter of course,
applied. The custom in connection with field cul-
ture is, besides, to sow the seeds in the open ground
in the exact positions where they are intended to
grow and produce the crop. ‘This system—namely,
avoiding excessively rich beds, and sowing the seeds
and growing the plants under full exposure—gives
far heavier results than such a “ coddling” system
as gains precedence within garden walls.

in open and exposed site within the garden should
be chosen for them, and where they can be grown as
a single row with extending vines. The soil must be
deeply dug and manured, and an additional layer
mnay certainly, with advantage, be placed centrally,
and covered with soil. Along the ridge thus formed
the seeds may be sown in part, a portion being sown
in a pot a week or two previously to insure a batch of
somewhat forwarder plants, which, when potted off
and hardened, may also be planted on the same ridge.
These seeds may be sown, the latter in a pot under
shelter about April 15th, and those in the ridge about
May 12th. When the young plants begin to grow
freely, induce the shoots to grow right and left from
the centre of the ridge; and should a dry period
ensue about the end of the month of June, give a
copious root-watering. By these simple means good
and constant supplies will be assured. The fruit are
never better for culinary purposes than when cooked
whole ; for which purpose they should be taken from
the plants when three or four inches long only. The
needful hoeings and weedings need not be more than
referred to. As regards the sorts, Long-ribbed,
Vegetable Cream, the Custard, and the Bush varieties
-are desirable. The latter produce fruit freely, and
have not the same habit as all others of rambling over
the surface of the ground, which is an advantage,
especially in small gardens of limited extent.

The Potato is reserved for separate treatment ;
and some notes on simultaneous cropping, and a
popular calendar of operations for the kitchen
garden, will therefore sufficiently complete and con-
clude this series of articles.

ITS CULTURE. 109

THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE.

By D. T. Fisx.

TRAINING.

OSES naturally assume many forms; their differ-
ences of stature and of character have already
been briefly adverted to., As to varieties in form, what
could be greater than the small-leaved, compact-
growing Scotch Roses, bristling with short, sharp.
prickles, and not exceeding an average of two feet
in height, and another Scotch variety of the arvensis
species of Rose, the Ayrshire, rambling and scramb-
ling to a height or length of twenty or more feet?
In the cultivation of a family varying so widely, it
is only natural that the normal diversities should be
preserved, and at times intensified and exaggerated.
For Roses not only differ widely in a state of nature,
but are among the most plastic material in the hands
of art. And thus it has come to pass that we have
all sizes and all forms of Roses, much to the bewilder-
ment of amateurs, and greatly to the enrichment of
our gardens. The almost infinite varieties of form
and stature of the plants, the wonderful diversity of
colour, scent, shape, and size of the blooms, have
ever been among the most interesting and greatest

attractions of our Roses.

It must be confessed that of late years there have
been vigorous and sustained efforts made to level up
all Roses to one uniform standard, that of the best
show-blooms. In pursuit of this not a few Roses of
special interest have disappeared from many gardens.
At the present moment the Rose-fever runs high in
the direction of Hybrid Perpetuals, Teas, and a few
favourite Noisettes, and it is impossible to over-
praise or grow too many of such magnificent Roses.
Still, a place might be found for other strains,
species, and varieties, which will be named and
described in subsequent chapters. And even the
popular sorts may be moulded by pruning and
training into other forms than those of the common
standard or squat dwarf bush. To show how to
educe variety of form out of these and other Roses
is the purport of this chapter. And as pruning may
in some important senses be said to be the’basis of
training, it will be logical as well as sensible to
begin our section on the training of Roses with a
continuation of pruning as a means of moulding Roses
into form. The highest examples of Rose-training
contain those two apparently opposite qualities, sym-
metry and diversity. Each Rose may bea symmetri-
cal type of a particular-formed Rose, and yet the mere
juxtaposition of two forms will yield a richer variety
than if neither had been more or less perfect of its
kind. For example, a perfect dwarf and a perfect
standard afford more contrast or diversity than if
the dwarf were climbing up into standard stature,

110

or the latter were worked so low as to look like a
dwarf. Similar contrasts may be drawn between
pillar and weeping Roses. The more perfect each
after its kind, the more charming the symmetry of
each, and the‘stronger and more satisfactory the
contrast between them.

These principles must be clearly borne in mind, and
persistently applied in practice, in pruning Roses into
form. All modes of pruning already described, with
many modifications of each, will be needed to succeed
perfectly in this, as it were, building up Roses into
shape with the knife. The phrase reads like a bull,
but it is full of meaning and of truth. A branch,
or series of branches, is needed somewhere. A cut
may have to be made some distance from the base
or blank space before it can be produced, and much
calculation and contrivance must always be exercised
if the form desired is to be crowned with perfection.

A superfluity of material is almost more difficult
to deal with than a scarcity. By looking well ahead
this may generally be prevented by disbudding, a
species of prevention that saves a great deal of cut-
ting and carving afterwards.

Barly Pruning Essential.—If « stitch in
time saves nine, a cut in time may save ninety and
nine, and is in fact the only way of moulding Roses
and other plants into good forms. Other mis-
takes, cultural or otherwise, may be pruned off, or
grown out of, but structural ones mostly endure
for a lifetime. To rectify these later on is to
destroy the bush or tree. Hence the importance
of a clear perception of form from ‘the first, and
persistent efforts to keep it constantly in view after-
wards. As the twig is bent, the tree is inclined.
Yes, and it is even more true that as the Rose is
pruned, so it may be made to assume almost any
shape or form desired. As has been already shown,
there are great natural diversities. But most of
these can be greatly intensified, and others equally
or more strikingly induced, by artificial treatment.
Hardly any family of plants is so pliable in the
hands of the trainer as the Rose. Under his guidance
the one shoot becomes three, or any desired num-
ber of shoots, and on these any sized or shaped Roses
may be built up. And this question of the number of
shoots to start with is one of the very first that have to
be decided by the trainer. It is by no means so easy
fs it seems. Returning to the bud, for instance, some
prefer one only on a briar, others two, many three.
Practically a good many briars determine the re-
sults for themselves, by only producing one or more
shoots fit for budding on. But either way, by stop-
ping or pruning, the rosarian may soon have as
many Rose-shoots for the base of his future plant as
he may choose to use.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Number of Shoots.—Perhaps on the whole
three shoots as nearly alike in strength, and at about
equal distances apart, form the best base to start
with, as there is mostly more beauty, if not a better
chance of fortune or success, in odd than even
numbers. But Nature protests against hard and fast
lines in the exact number of her Rose-shoots as else-
where. When we cut for three we may get but
two, and sometimes only one, or we may lose one
or more by accident, as if to prevent the trainer
from adhering too slavishly to general rules as to
making base-shoots. :

The question of character and form of Rose, species
or varieties, also comes in to confuse, and it may be
confound our numbers; pillar, pyramid, and climbing
Roses requiring different numbers from standards and
dwarfs.

For pyramidal Roses, for example, four shoots are
not only better than three, but almost necessary to
success—that is, one central shoot with three posted
at as nearly as may be equal distances, so as to form
a triangle round its base. These may either be
forced out at the base of the shoot itself, or may be
independent branches proceeding from the root-
stock. The latter may help to widen the base of the
pyramid, and to give it bulk and massive beauty
in less time than if it were all produced from the
central stem. .

Then, again, where such qualitles are not only
not required, but would be a positive drawback, as -
in the case of pillar, climbing, or scrambling Roses,
such are mostly built up on one stem only, or
multiples of one, for succession, as the first one
warrants. One of the chief charms of such Roses
is their slenderness in contrast with their height;
and though tastes differ and practice varies in regard
to this vital matter also, it is certain that a pillar
Rose with a large base becomes a pyramidal one
spoilt, and few objects are less satisfactory than a’
climbing Rose with a large proportion of its mate-
rial huddled together at its base, instead of climbing
high and running far from such coigns of vantage
as the tall stake, tree, chimney, or arch affords it,
showering down its beauty and fragrance with wean-
ton prodigality.

Of course there are in most gardens places for
climbing and all other Roses, in which the highest
art and best taste are exhibited by simply planting
them, and leaving them alone to ramble or scramble
at their own sweet will, in their own wild and free
natural ways, over stones, roots, tree-stumps, banks of
uneven soil, rocks, gravel or chalk-pits, old quarries,
or any unsightly, out-of-the-way place that needs
clothing or furnishing. In such positions, and for
such purposes, the less the pruner or the trainer
interferes, the more perfect and satisfactory the

THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE.

result. However, even among these children of
nature, the pruner may occasionally cut the strong
to make room for the weak, and give a lead here
and a tie yonder, a help to one struggling shoot and
a hindrance to that strong, encroaching, overshadow-
ing one, that will add greatly to the beauty and rich-
ness of the bank or maze of Roses; but he must
leave no visible trace of his presence behind, or
half the charm vanishes.

And this principle of concealing the processes,
and presenting, as far as may be, only the finished
results of them, should run through and dominate all
our prunings and trainings of Roses. Cuts, ties,

d
r

a

Fig. 35. Fig. 36.

Fig. 37.

111

the pruning or thinning needful to perfect their
blossoming will also contribute to moulding and
keeping them in the most enjoyable and useful
forms.

Standard Rose with Single Bud.—As such
are within reach of all, it may be well to take this,
first of all, as an illustration of how Roses can be
pruned into any desired form. There are two ways
of proceeding in the matter: one of stopping the
growth of the current year, so as to force them into
forming two, three, or more distinct shoots the first
season, and that of allowing the first shoot to grow

StanpaRpD ROSE, SHOWING ITS FORMATION BY PRUNING.

shreds, nails, stakes, should all be as little seen as
possible; and the Roses, even during the process of
moulding into shape, and especially when finished,
should appear just as if they had grown so. Nature
in the stocks, or tied to a whipping-post, would be
the most apt and true description of not a few Roses
one sees under the process of injudicious or over-
training. In many cases, too, the training is never
finished; the Roses are always going to be, never
are, things of beauty: the ground is too poor, the
stakes, poles, or arches too high, the plants too
strong, or the supports too weak; and hence the
Roses are never finished nor perfect.

No doubt, where many Roses are grown, it is
almost impossible to have them all perfect, prune and
train as we may ; but it is far better to curtail their
numbers than spread mediocrity and advertise failure
over a wider area. Many Roses, too, may be grown
without much training. The natural tendency of
many species and varieties—for example, most of the
Teas—is to form nice bushes of different heights ;

to its full height and ripen before pruning. The
last will be chosen for purposes of illustration,
so as to make all more plain and easily understood.
Fig. 35 shows the shoot as it appears in the
autumn. The whole of the strength of the root
being concentrated into this one shoot, it has grown
very vigorously, as may be seen. In the winter, or
spring cf the next year, the single shoot is cut back
to within three buds of its base. This severe cutting
back is needful to insure that the basis of the future
head shall be well and truly laid as close to the
main stem as possible. Few things mar the beauty
of the Rose-tree more, or destroy its true character
sooner, than allowing its first main branches to start
at some considerable distance from its root-stock c
the crown of the briar. By cutting the first shoot
or shoots “ home,” as it is technically called, at first,
such evils or unsightlinesses are prevented.

Pruning the Second Year.—By cutting the
three branches back within three buds of their base

112

(Fig. 36), the Rose-tree will be furnished with nine
branches the following year. These will form
strong, well-ripened shoots before the end of the
growing season. Any lateral or small shoots should
be removed during the summer and autumn, and the
shoots disbudded back to within six inches or a foot
of their base. This tends to a fuller development
and a more thorough ripening of the buds, on which
the future life and form of the tree depend.

Pruning the Third Year.—This differs little
from the second, excepting in the greater number of
shoots to cut back. Occasionally, too, some of the
-shoots from intercrossing, or
taking a wrong course, may
be cut out bodily, or re-
moved during the summer
to give more light and air,
or to develop or make room
for better-placed shoots. To
make this matter more sim-
ple, however, the entire
number of shoots are shown
in Fig. 37.

Growth and Pruning
the Fourth Year.—Fig.
38 shows the Rose-tree as it
would look before pruning
in the fourth year from the
start. It will now’ have
over twenty shoots, sufficient
to form a good standard
Rose, and base enough to
form one of the very largest
that need or can be grown.
The cross-lines show the same tree cut back in
the autumn or spring. There is no need to pursue
the process further. At the same rate of increase,
the same tree during its next season’s growth would
have the required number of shoots, and, in fact,
have grown into such a finished standard Rose-
tree (Fig. 39) as will fitly close these descriptions
and illustrations.

The Pyramidal Rose on a Single Stem.
—On the whole, the same method is the best for
forming pyramidal Roses. ‘True, they may be
formed by four, seven, nine, or any number of
stems; but in such cases they are hardly likely to
be so stable or symmetrical as on the one-stem
principle. In forming pyramids thus, they also may
become almost self-supporting as they get old, the
main or leading stems growing into something like
the thickness and stability of a tree. Pyramids thus
formed also bloom more freely, and if they ‘are

Fig. 39.—Standard Rose, completed.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

worked plants the evils and inconveniences of suckers
are almost immediately detected and removed; where-
as in many-stemmed worked pyramidal Roses, the
stock not seldom gets so much mixed up with the
Rose on its top, that in the gardens of amateurs it
sometimes first suppresses and then succeeds it. A
curious case of the marvellous deterioration of a
Charles Lefebvre Rose, was speedily explained by the
fact that the De la Grifferaie stock had completely
overgrown and smothered it. Of course this could
not have happened to a skilled rosarian; but it is not
for such, but those that know little about Roses, that
such cases are cited as warnings. So considerable,
however, is the risk of this
unobserved development of
stock in pyramidal Roses,
that own-root plants are to
be preferred for this form.
And failing these, the con-
fining of the Roses to one
stem, and starting the base a
foot, eighteen inches, or ever
two feet from the ground,
renders the intrusion of
shoots from the stocks im-
possible, and also adds to the
beauty, and more fully dis-
plays the true character, of
pyramidal Roses (Fig. 44).

First Pruning of
Pyramidal Roses. — In
the formation of these, the
leading shoot should always
have the pre-eminence from
the -first (Fig. 40). That
shoot, though beheaded every year, should be cut
back to the best and most prominent bud. In order
to insure the presence of a fine bud at this point,
it is good practice to disbud the upper end of the
shoot as already described, or even to shorten the
leader considerably, about the middle of September.
This throws the strength of the plant into the buds
left, and insures that the upper ones especially, that
is those nearest to the beheading-line, shall break
vigorously next year. But apart from that, the
natural tendency of the sap to flow with most
vigour in a vertical course, insures that the top bud
on the leading shoot shall not only break with
the greatest vigour, but maintain its supremacy for
strength throughout the summer. In the practice
of moulding Roses into good pyramids, the difficulty
seldom or never is about the strength of the leader,
but the maintenance of an equality of strength among
the semi-horizontal branches. Where this is the
case, these side-branches may often be strengthened

THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE. 113

by the suppression of the leader by prompt stopping
several times during the growing season. It should
seldom or never, however, be headed down closer
than within a foot or so of its base. But in practice
this suppression for the mere moulding of pyramidal
Roses into shape is seldom necessary, though it is
often practised to gain most of the solid advantages
of two full growths and crops of forming branches
within the year.

; Second Pruning of Pyramidal Roses.—
‘The second pruning consists in the shortening back
of the leader, and the three or more branches under

and as a fair sample of what a pyramidal Rose
thould grow into (Fig. 44).

Further Treatment.—tThis consists in the
close pruning of such Roses every winter and spring.
The hardier and later had better be pruned in
November, as such Roses cannot afford to lose the
vital and growing force of breaking their buds
before pruning, which smaller standards or dwarfs
may bear with more or less impunity. Pyramidal
Roses, chiefly from their size and the number of
Roses they produce, seldom yield blooms of the
highest excellency; but they make up in numbers

1

PyRaMIDAL ROSE-PRUNING.

it (Fig. 41). During the next summer the Rose
will have advanced another and a long step towards
its final and complete form. The three rudimentary
branches of the first year will have multiplied into
the compound or more complex branches shown at
the base of the embryo pyramid (Fig. 42). On the
top of these, climbing above, and still rather closely
hugging them, three or more other side-shoots will
be found, while the leader itself hasadvanced at least
a foot or more, as may be desired.

Further Development.—Figs. 42 and 43 illus-
trate and explain these points, and the repetition of
these processes year after year results in the forma-
tion of pyramidal Roses of any size desired. It is
not necessary to follow the pruning as a means of
forming them further; but, as in the case of stan-
dard Roses, it may be satisfactory to present « fair
sample of a pyramid—alike as an inspiring and
teaching model to be kept in view by every reader,

32

what they lack in perfection or size of individual
blossoms, while no object within the whole range of
nature or the rich domain of art could prove more
attractive than a single plant, several, a group, a
line, or avenue by the sides of a main walk or road,
of pyramidal Roses of perfect form, and smothered
with bloom from base to summit.

Weeping Roses.—These do not differ greatly
in principle from those already explained and illus-
trated. The great thing in the formation of weeping
Roses is to start with a stem sufficiently tall to make
them effective. From seven to fifteen feet high will
make good weeping Roses. The name explains the
form. Having started at a sufficient elevation, one,
two, or three hoops of different sizes are useful,
and indeed almost indispensable, as a framework on
which to fix and arrange the shoots of the Roses.
Sometimes half- spherical or umbrella _ trellises
(Fig. 45) are fixed to the top of a very stout central

114 CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING. |

stake of iron, which thus serves the combined purpose
of keeping roots and stem immovable, and giving
stability to the training-frame upon the top. At
others, from three to five or more strong stakes round
the side support hoop or hoops or frames. In any
case great strength is needed, as the purchase of the
wind on a weeping Rose, and its tendency to whip
all the branches into fragments or confused bundles
of bruised foliage and flower, without form or
comeliness, must be seen or felt to be properly esti-
mated and provided against. Where iron or wire
hoops are used, the rings should be perforated at

Q

Fig. 44.—Pyramidal Pruning, finished.

distances of a foot or so, and iron pegs project-
ing two inches or go on either side driven home, so
as to become immovable. This prevents the wind
from sweeping the branches round the hoop into
confusion or sheer destruction. When wooden
‘hoops are used the natural snags should be kept on
to serve the same purpose, that of fixing the branches
‘securely where placed, and making them independent
of wind and weather. Fig. 45 shows a section of a
weeping Rose fixed in position.

It will also be seen that the very longest of all
modes of long pruning is adopted. It would, indeed,
be a waste of time, as well as a trial of patience, to
mount Roses on the highest available stocks, and
then prune back their drooping shoots so often and
‘so severely as to hinder. their becoming effectual.
By the choice of rapid-growing Roses (see our selec-

tions for particular purposes), providing rich soil
for their roots, and judicious long pruning—carried
to such excess as not to prune at all in many cases—
weeping Roses will soon reach down to the ground,
and prove as grateful in affording useful shade as
they are in enriching the landscape with unique -
subjects of interest and beauty.

How to Prune and Train Pillar and
other Roses.—In pillar and climbing Roses
several shoots may be used instead of one, and the
practice may be far less formal and generally more

Fig. 45.—Umbrella Trainer for Weeping Roses.

rapid. Pyramids are also formed at times of Ayr-
shire, Noisette, and Evergreen Roses, and in such
cases the procedure may be different. The above
instructions are given for the formation of standards
and pyramidal Roses out of Hybrid Perpetuals. Roses
that run twenty feet a year claim, and should have,
greater liberty of growth and freedom of training.
They, in a word, should have less pruning and more
room. Two or more shoots run from the ground
up a pole or tree, with the snags left on to support
the Roses, may be left almost full length, and may
form a magnificent pillar or climbing Rose the next
year. The secret of perpetuating their beauty lies
in, if possible, cutting out a main shoot back to the
root annually, or so often as opportunity presents
itself. From the base of this, other long rambling
shoots will spring forth, probably more vigorous

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 115

than those removed. By exercising sense and judg-
ment in the removal, as far as may be, of the oldest
branches and shoots, the Roses may thus be pruned
into a renewal of their youth annually, and by the
aid of such root-dressings as will be described in
our articles on Culture, will continue to bud and
blossom as only such Roses can for so many
years, that they may be safely reckoned among the
permanent objects of beauty and interest in the
garden.

The Firm Fixing of Trained Roses.—
Without fixity of tenure and security against dis-
turbance, the best-trained Roses soon become
wretched and pitiable examples of love’s painstaking
and skilful labour lost. Even common standard
Roses are so often blown out of the perpendicular
by rough winds as to completely mar their form,
and excite our commiseration rather than admira-
tion. Stakes of wood soon rot, and besides have
seldom sufficient foothold to remain for any length
of time firmly fixed in the ground. The zigzag
action of the wind, greatly aided by the leverage of
the Rose-top, first loosens the stakes and then throws
them over. Iron stakes, with variously-formed bases,
have been substituted for wood with good effect. (See
article on Piantrvc.) Objection has been justly
taken to heavy iron bottoms for stakes, as they
speedily corrode in the ground; and although it is
said that soils with a fair percentage of iron are
the most favourable for the development of high
colour in Roses, it is certain that the roots of Roses
metaphorically turn up their noses at the large doses
of iron rust generated by iron stakes. The best
eure for this is to dip the base of the stake into
hot pitch, and allow this to become thoroughly
hard and dry before putting it in the ground.
A similar coating, or one of tar varnish, is the best
dressing for the upper portion of the stakes, and
will last for years. Figures of several iron Rose-
stakes have already been given, and they may be
bad of any length.

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

By Wittuam Hues Gower.

Epacris.—Handsome free-flowering plants, ad-
tmirably adapted for bouquet-making, as well as the
general decoration of green-house or conservatory.
These plants bear the knife well, and consequently
recommend themselves to ladies who cut, their own
flowers and like long stems with them.

Epacris are peculiar to Australia and New Zea-

land. The species from the latter country are not
showy. They are generally found in elevated
positions, a knowledge of which should assist the
cultivator.

The genus has always been popular with lovers of
plants, and therefore the hybridiser has paid con-
siderabie attention to them, the result being the pro-
duction of numerous extremely beautiful varieties.

The flowers of Epacris are tubular, waxy, more o1
less drooping, and spring from the bases of the
closely-set leaves, in such numbers as to form dense
racemes of bloom. There are two distinct sections
of Epacris, one being erect and bushy, the other
having a somewhat lax or trailing habit of growth.
The latter produce longer flowers, and usually bloom
later in the season, and display their beauties to
the greatest advantage when trained upon a wire
trellis.

' The bushy kinds should be cut back hard after
blooming. The lax growers must only have an
inch or two of their shoots trimmed off.

‘When Epacris are young, they should be potted_
in good rough peat, with a liberal quantity of sharp
sand added; but after they have attained size and
strength, the addition of a small quantity of light
loam will be found advantageous. The erect-
growing kinds mostly bloom in winter and early
spring. Soon after the blooming season is past, cut
the shoots down to an inch or two of the previous
year’s wood, They should then be placed in a frame
or some position which will give them a closer
atmosphere than usual, giving them an occasional
sprinkling with the syringe or rose watering-can,
which will materially assist in the production of
young shoots. When the new growths are about an
inch long, re-pot the plants; and as soon as root-
action begins, give them more air. When the young
shoots have made some four or five inches of growth,
pinch out the points, and they will again form lateral
shoots, and thus produce more dense and compact
bushes. If the plants are to flower the following
winter, do not stop the shoots a second time (unless
the plants are very thin), as with one stopping they
will make long stout shoots, which will be clothed
with flowers the greater part of their length, and
be more effective than a greater quantity of smaller
ones.

The plants having become well established in their
pots, remove them to the open air, standing them
upon a bed of ashes to keep worms from entering
the pots. Here they may remain until autumn,
when it will be necessary to return them to their
winter quarters, which should be a cool and airy
position.

The lax growers being, as before remarked, later
bloomers than the shrubby kinds, must not be

116 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

pruned at the same time, but immediately the
flowers are past should be taken in hand, so that no
time be lost in getting the next season’s flowering-
wood started.

Epacris require an abundant supply of water, but
they cannot endure it to stagnate about their roots.
Therefore, drain the pots well, and never allow
the plants to suffer for want of water.

The following enumeration of species and of
varieties will afford the
means for a good selection
for all decorative purposes.

Section I.—Erecr
GROWERS.

Alba odoratissima, white,
sweet-scented. _

Butterfly, white and rose.

Campanulata, deep blush.

Campanulata alba, pure white.

Carmiuata, bright red.

Densiflora, blush.

FElegans, pale rose.

Exquisita, bright pink, large.

Fireball, bright scarlet, tipped
with rose.

Hyacinthiflora, soft pink,
dense spikes.

Hyacinthiflora candidissima,
pure white, large, very dense
spikes.

Hyacinthiflora carminata,
bright pink.

Impressa coccinea, rich crim-

son.
Ingramii, bright red, tipped
with pink

pink.
Lady Alice Peel, salmon.
Lady Panmure, white and
rose. i
Mont Blane, pure white, tubes
stained with lemon inside.

Nivalis compacta, snow-
white.
Picturata, deep pink.

Pulchella major, pure white,
sweet-scented,

Sunset, brilliant red and pink.

The Bride, pure white.

Tricolor, bright red, pink, and
rose, '

_ Vesuvius, brilliant crimson. |

Vicountess Hill, scarlet.

Section II.—Lax Growers.

Devoniana,
scarlet.
Eclipse, brilliant crimson,
tipped with white, large.
Grandiflora rubra, bright

red and white.

rich bright | Miniata, deep scarlet and
white.

M., splendens, fiery-red and
white, very large.

Onosmefiora, white.

O. plena, white, double.

Epigynium.—aA small genus of Indian Faccinie.
For treatment, see Ceratostema. They are mostly
epiphytal in their native habitats.

£. acuminatum, an elegant compact shrub, with
alternate lanceolate ieaves, tapering to a sharp point
and toothed at the edges; deep green above, paler
below and tinged with a shade of dull purple;
flowers in dense drooping corymbs from the branches,

EpacRIs NIVALIS.

forming long racemes of deep red flowers, which
are very effective. Summer months. Northern
India; 3,000 to 4,000 feet elevation.

E. lewobotrys. This beautiful plant in a state
of nature is frequently found epiphytal upon the
branches of the large forest trees. It is a much-
branched evergreen shrub, the leaves being clustered
on the points of all the shoots. The leaves are
oblong, bluntly toothed, and bright green; racemes
long and drooping, bearing
a quantity of tubular green-
ish-white flowers. These
are succeeded by pure
waxy-white berries, which
render it very ornamental.
Summer months: Northern
India.

Erica.—This beautiful
family of plants, familiar
to every lover of flowers
by the name of Heaths, is
exclusively confined to the
Old World; seme few are
natives of Europe, but the
head-quarters of the genus
is on the mountains of
South Africa about the
Cape of Good Hope.

Although the genus is a
large one, none of its mem-
bers have any economic
properties; cattle do not
care for them as fodder,
although cows sometimes
will browse on the young
shoots, but this, it is said,
causes the milk to assume
a reddish colour as if
stained with blood: with
grouse, however, the buds
and young shoots of our native species are great
favourites ; hares and rabbits also browse’ on them,
and the bee-keeper fully understands that the flowers
yield an abundance of honey.

The majority of known species wero introduced
to this country in the reign of George III., and to
Mr. Francis Masson, a celebrated botanical collector,
we are indebted for not only so many Cape Heaths,
but a vast quantity of other plants from that region.

‘The striking beauty of the waxy tubular flowers
of Ericas soon installed them first favourites in the
horticultural world, and an immense number of new
varieties have been obtained in English gardens, the
majority of which far surpass the Cape species in
beauty.

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 117

The cultivation of Ericas is generally looked upon
as being a matter of extreme difficulty, but the grand
specimens which are to be found in the gardens of
Great Britain and Ireland, are at least a proof that it
is an art the British gardeners have fully mastered,
and in which they stand pre-eminent; for no other
Europeans can rival, far less surpass them in the
culture of these plants. Climate, no doubt, has much
to do with this, for in the North of Europe the
changes in the temperature are too extreme, and in
the South the atmosphere is too hot and arid to suit
the constitutions of Cape Heaths, so that no matter
how careful or painstaking a Continental gardener
may be, he cannot thoroughly overcome the difi-
culties of climate.

These plants will grow only in peat, earth, and
sharp sand; this, however, must not be hard and
harsh, nor boggy, or spongy, but good, fibrous, gritty
peat, and it is best not sifted, but the fibre should be
chopped up with the soil; the coarseness must, of
course, be regulated by the size of the pots into
which the plants are shifted. The pots must be
carefully drained; that is to say, the drainage
material should be so placed as to allow the water to
rapidly pass away; this can be effected with a few
properly-adjusted pieces of broken pots in a far
better manner than is oftentimes done with a large
quantity, when the operation is performed in a
thoughtless and careless manner.

Heaths, when they have attained considerable size,
may be kept in the same pot for several years, if
the mould is not sour, and the drainage remains in
working order; but when these plants are re-potted
it should be done before they get thoroughly pot-
bound, but always let the old pots be well filled with
roots before putiing into larger ones. When the
plant is taken out of the old pot the shoulder of the
ball should be carefully rubbed down and the drain-
age material removed with as little injury to the
roots as possible; place sufficient mould over the
drainage in the new pot to allow the plant to stand
at its proper level, which should be about two inches
below the rim, fill round the sides with the new
mould, and press it down very firmly as the process
goes on, for the roots of Ericas are very fine, and
they root more freely and thrive best when potted
hard.

Heaths, like all other plants, require a certain
amount of pruning, but with these plants the opera-
tion requires considerable care and forethought. In
the case of the soft-wooded free-growing kinds, we
advise the knife to be used pretty freely; immediately
after flowering cut the shoots back below the points
which have bloomed, and any shoots or laterals which
have not flowered may also be stopped at the same
time; after the shoots have started let them grow

freely until they are about six inches long, when the
points should be pinched out ; after this, if the plant
is tolerably bushy, do not stop again, and the result
will be fine long spikes of bloom. With the hard-
wooded kinds, however, the case is very different, a
knife should never be applied to them ; these will
only require just the points pinched out at any time,
and this may be done trom time to time according to
the style in which the cultivator wishes to build up
the specimen. In performing this operation a thought
must be given as to the time of flowering, for if it
is done too late in the season, it prevents the wood
attaining maturity, and the result is that the plant is
bare of flowers.

The judicious application of water is one of the
great secrets in Heath-culture; many inexperienced
in this matter say they should not have much water;
our experience, however, goes to prove that Ericas
like an abundant supply of water when growing, but
it must be carried off quickly. It is difficult to
moisten a ball of peat through with a small quantity
of water, and the roots of these plants should never
be allowed to suffer drought, or in all probability
death will rapidly ensue; and the same end will
speedily be arrived at if the roots become soddened
with water; therefore, in watering, give sufficient
water to thoroughly penetrate the whole mass of
soil, look over the plants frequently in order to
anticipate their wants, be sure the drainage is free
and open, and all will be well. In winter less water
as a matter of course will be necessary, but winter or
summer, whenever it is given, do it thoroughly.

Ericas may be stood in the open air during the
summer months, the full exposure to the sun being
very beneficial ir ripening the growth, and the
plants have the advantage of standing on a cooler
bottom than when on a stage in the house.

These plants require thorough ventilation, there-
fore the lights must be always kept open in genial
weather to allow of a free circulation of air. Fire-
heat is one of their greatest enemies, and, unless
during frosty weather, it should never be applied.
An exception to this rule, however, may be made
during a period of dull wet weather when the atmos-
phere becomes heavy and damp; then a little heat
may be applied with advantage, but the ventilators
must be all opened at the time, and the house
allowed to get cool again before night. Mildew isa
pest which must be kept from these plants, or the
Jeaves will become rusty, and the bare stems left
after the leaves fall greatly disfigure their appear-
ance. Whenever this is discovered, immediately
dust the affected part with sulphur; the plants
should be laid on their sides during the operation in
order to prevent its falling on the soil, as it is very
injurious to the roots.

118

E. emula.—A dwarf variety; foliage very dense
and hoary; flowers large, many in a whorl, deep
green and.red. May to August.

E. afinis.—A free-growing kind, with rich deep
green leaves; flowers pale yellow, contracted at the
mouth. April to May.

E. Aitoniana.—A Cape species, named in honour of
.“ Aiton,” author of “ Hortus Kewensis.” A slender,
somewhat lax grower,
with short bright green
leaves ; flowers long, ar-
ranged in terminal
whorls, pure white; very
sticky. July to Sep-
tember.

E, Aitoniana turgida.
—Habit similar to the
preceding, but a little
stronger; flowers long
and much inflated at the
base, white, tinged with
pink. July to August.

£. Aitoniana rosea.—
Similar to the last-named
in habit; flowers large,
in terminal whorls, rosy-
pink. June to August.

E. alopecuroides. — A
free grower with small
downy leaves; flowers
ovate, numerous, red-
dish-purple. September
to October.

E. ampullacea. — A
compact-growing species
with bright green leaves,
slightly hairy at the
edges; flowers in large
umbels, tubes much
swollen at the base, red-
dish-pink ; limb white.
July to August.

E. ampullacea obbata.—A very fine variety ; flowers
large, flask-shaped, inflated at baso, and contracted
at the neck; waxy-white. July to September.

E. ampullacea rubra, —Similar to the species, but
with larger flowers, which are bright red. May to
June.

E. andromedaflora.—A somewhat tall-growing
species; leaves deep green; flowers globular; calyx
large and soft pink, whilst the corolla is reddish-
pink. Propagated from sced. April to June.

£. aristata.—A dense grower, with leaves closely
set; flowers large, many in a whorl, tubular, but
with swollen base, deep red; limb white. May to
July.

Erica Arronrana tuRetpa, “Se E.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

E. aristata Barnesii.—A superb form, having rich
dark foliage; flowers bright red, with broad pure
white limb. May to July.

E. aristata virens.—Leaves deep green; flowers
similar to preceding, but heavy red in the tube;
limb pinkish-white. May to July.

E. Archeriana.—A freé-growing species; flowers
long, tubular, deep scarlet. August to September,

E. Beaumontia, ~
Sometimes found in col-
lections under the name
of rubrocella. 'The flowers
are campanulate, pendu-
jous, purplish - white.
April to July.

E. Bergiana.—This is
a free -fowering and
very pretty species. The
leaves are downy;
flowers terminal, droop-
ing, campanulate in
shape, purple. It is also
knowr by the various
names of £. lacuneflra,
FE. quairiflora, and E£.
nitens. May to July.

E. brumiades. — This
plant is so densely
clothed with woolly hairs
that it has been called
£. villosa, It is a rather
slender grower, but
withal so singular and
beautiful that a place
should be found for it

in every collection.
Flowers pink, the sta-
“7p ) exerted,

} mens black;
i produced in terminal
} whorls. May to July.
caffra nana. — A
small-flowered variety,
but valuable on account of the season at which it
blooms. A slender-growing plant, producing abun-
dance of small white campanulate flowers. Known
also by the names of E£. strignosa and E. prolifera.

E. campanulata.—F lowers campanulate, drooping,
bright yellow; an abundant bloomer, and most de-
sirable on account of its colour. May to July.

E. Candolleana.—A free but compact grower;
flowers large, tubular, produced in umbels; white
suffused with rosy-pink. June to August.

E. Cavendishiana.—A bold strong grower, very
vigorous ; foliage bright rich green; flowers tubular,
about an inch long, bright yellow. May to July.

&. cerinthoides coronata.—A somewhat lax- growing

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS,

plant; leaves short, deep green; flowers tubular, in
terminal umbels, very numerous, deep scarlet, clothed
with short hair. August to September.

E, colorans verna.—A_ soft-wooded erect-growing
kind; flowers white, suffused with reddish - pink.
March to May.

E. depressa.—A hard-wooded slow-growing species ;
sometimes known as E. humilis. Growth drooping ;
leaves intense deep green; flowers tubular, pale
yellow; very handsome. May to J uly.

E. depressa multiflora.—This resembles the pre-
ceding in its intense deep green leaves and yellow
flowers, but the growths do not droop as in the
species ; it is also generally a little later in flower-
ing. June to August.

E. Devoniana.—A handsome variety, with some-
what broad leaves for a Heath: flowers tubular, in
umbels, swollen at the base, reddish-purple. May
to June. .

£. Douglasii—Growths lax; flowers tubular,
tender, in terminal umbels, tubes deep flesh-colour ;
limbs large, spreading, white. June to July.

E. effusa.—A superb variety, of robust constitu-
tion. Leaves tomentose; flowers in terminal whorls
of from ten to twelve, tubes inflated at base, crimson-
scarlet; limb reflexed, soft primrose-yellow. June
to August.

£. elegans.—Habit of growth somewhat depressed,
very shrubby; leaves long and fleshy, glaucous;
calyx large, bright rosy-red; corolla contracted,
nearly same colour as calyx, tipped with green; very
handsome. May to July.

E. elegans glauca.—Similar to the preceding, but
larger in all its parts, more erect in habit, and freer
in growth; very glaucous. May to July.

E. eximia superba.—A close compact-habited kind,
and « free bloomer; flowers in whorls, tubular,
about an inch long, bright red, tipped with olive-
green. June to July.

£. exsurgens.—A strong erect-growing species,
with tubular flowers upwards of an inch long,
slender at the base, swelling upwards, dark orange ;
stamens exserted. Winter months.

E. Fairrieana.—Leaves furnished with long hairs
at the edges. A profuse bloomer; flowers large,
in terminal umbels, tubular, much inflated at base,
contracted at the mouth, rich deep rose, purple
band at neck; limb white. A superb variety. June
to August.

E. ferruginea superba.—aA free bloomer and of good
constitution. Leaves thickly clothed with rusty-
brown hairs; flowers tubular, bright rosy-red. July
to August.

E. florida.—An erect free-growing plant. Leaves
clothed with a grey tomentum ; flowers small but very
numerous, campanulate, creaamy-white. May to July.

119

E. genmifera, —A very handsome species, fre-
quently to be found in gardens under the name
of E. Massonii minor. Leaves furnished with long
hairs at the margins; flowers disposed in whorls
of eight or more, tubular, deep red, paler towards
the neck; segments tipped with green. July to
August.

&. gracilis.—A_ soft-wooded free-growing species,
with smooth, bright green leaves ; flowers globose,
small but produced in the greatest abundance,
reddish-purple. There are two varieties, an autumnal
bloomer and a spring bloomer. Saving in the time
of flowering there is no distinction.

E. grandinosa.—A free-growing kind, with bright
green leaves; flowers globose, smooth, and pure
white; popularly known as the Hailstone Heath.
May to July. ,

E. Hartnelliana.— A handsome variety, free in
growth and an abundant bloomer; flowers disposed
in large whorls, tubular, red at base, banded with
green at the neck ; limb white. May and June.

E. hybrida.—Sometimes found under the name of
£. cylindrica. It is an erect, free-growing, soft-
wooded kind, with smooth, bright green leaves, and
long tubular flowers of a brilliant red. May and
June.

E. hyemalis—This is perhaps the best-known
Heath in cultivation. It is very largely grown for
decorative purposes. It is a free-growing erect
plant, with pale green leaves, and an abundant
bloomer; flowers bell-shaped, drooping, reddish-
pink at the base, white towards the mouth. There
is also a pure white variety. December to March.

E. infundibuliformis.—A handsome free-flowering
species; flowers tubular, slender, tubes red; limb
spreading, pure white. June to August.

E. intermedia.—A strong and rapid-growing plant,
producing its large whorls of drooping pure white
flowers in abundance, April to July.

£. Irbyana.—F lowers large, disposed in whorls,
flask-shaped, sharply contracted at top, rosy-pink,
neck banded with greenish-black; a very fine plant.
July to August.

E. Jacksoniana.—A. very beautiful variety ; flowers
in whorls, tubular, deep red; a dark band round the
neck; limb white. July to September.

E, jasminiflora alba.—A most desirable, strong-
growing, hard-wooded plant, producing very large
and long flask-shaped flowers, which are pure white.
June to August.

E. McNabiana.—This fine Heath was named in
honour of Mr. McNab, curator of the Botanic
Gardens, Edinburgh, who gathered together a very
fine collection of these plants, and whose skill in
their cultivation has become historical. Leaves
thick, slightly recurved and deep green; flowers

120 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

large, tubular, upwards of an inch long; tubes red-
dish-pink, with a very dark band round the neck;
. limb spreading, white. May to July.

E, McNabiana rosea.—In growth this very desir-
able variety differs from the preceding in the more.
recurved leaves; the flowers also are much longer
and larger; tubes rich dark rose, with a band of
deep blackish-purple round the neck; limb spread-
ing, white. Its normal flowering season is May to
July ; it occasionally, how-
ever, blooms again in the
autumn.

E. mammosa major. — A
strong erect-growing plant,
producing large whorls of
long, drooping, tubular
flowers, which are deep red-
dish-purple in colour; a very
showy and useful variety.
July to November.

E. Massonii major.—Named
in honour of the introducer
of so many Cape Heaths. It
is, perhaps, the grandest and
most stately of the whole
genus, and, at the same time,
the most difficult to keep in
good condition. It is a slow-
growing plant, but very free-
branching. The leaves are
closely set, and densely
clothed with woolly hairs;
these absorb the moisture if
it should get wet, and this”
‘Jeads to mildew, and turns
them a reddish-brown, causing
the plant to present a very
patchy and unsightly appear-
ance.’ When carefully at-
tended to, however, the plant
is very handsome either in or
out of flower. The flowers are tubular, upwards of
an inch long, disposed in large terminal whorls, deep
fiery-red; limb olive-green and yellow. June to
August.

4. Marnockiana.—The flowers of this very hand-
some variety are entirely destitute of the viscid gum
with which nearly all the blooms of the hard-
wooded Heaths are coated, so that neither dust nor
insects can find a lodgment upon them, which is a
great advantage. Flowers large, tubular, inflated
at the base; tubes rich purplish-crimson, with a
darker band round the neck; limb white. July to
September.

FE. mutabilis—A slender-growing plant, which
may with propriety be called a perpetual bloomer ;

Erica HYEMALIS.

but it requires considerable attention to keep it in
health during the winter. Mildew is its great
enemy. The flowers are disposed in whorls, tubes
long and slender, and of a uniform bright red
throughout.

E. obbata.—A grand variety. The flowers are
much inflated,’ produced in large whorls, and are
pure white. June to August.

E. odora vose.— Known also in gardens by the
name of E. odorata. It is deli-
cately fragrant, well deserving
a place in every collection of
plants. The leaves are rather
small and sparse, dark green ;
flowers campanulate, pendu-
lous, and pure white. May te
July.

E. opulenta.— A compact
yet free-growing plant; the
leaves closely set, small, and
slightly hairy. .The long
tubular flowers are produced
in large whorls, tubes much -
inflated at base, bright crim-
son-lake; neck banded with
reddish-brown; limb pink.
June to August.

E. ornata.—The habit of this
delicately-beautiful variety is
robust and free; flowers large,
tubes much inflated; soft
white, shaded with carmine at
the base, neck banded with
green; limb white. July and
August.

E. ovata.—This fine plant
has several synonyms, ‘being
found in some gardens under
the names of E. mitreformis
and FE. hirtiflora; leaves
somewhat spreading, hairy at
the edges, and dark green; flowers in terminal
whorls, tubes much inflated at base, reddish-purple ;
limb white. June and July.

E. Parmentieriana rosea—An elegant and most
useful plant; compact in growth and a profuse
bloomer ; leaves dense, bright green ; flowers tubular,
inflated at the base, and rosy-purple in colour. July
and August.

E. Paxtoniana.—Habit robust and good; leaves
hairy and recurved; flowers in terminal whorls,
tubes upwards of an inch long, reddish-salmon,
neck banded with greenish-brown. June to August.

E. persoluta.—<A free slender-growing species, very
useful for cutting. The flowers are small, globose,
reddish-pink in colour, and produced in great abun-

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS, 12k

dance from all the points of the shoots. There is a
white-flowering form called alba, and another, rubra,
with deep red flowers, but in habit and appearance
they are identical. April and May.

E. perspicua nana—aA dwarf close-growing plant
and a free bloomer; leaves somewhat hairy, deep
green; flowers disposed in terminal clusters, tubes
‘slender, delicate flesh-colour ; limb white. May and
June.

E. perspicua rosea.—In habit and general appear-
ance this variety resembles the preceding. The
flowers, however, are rich deep rose. It is a very
desirable plant. May and June.

E. primuloides—A small-growing species of great,
beauty ; leaves dense and deep green; flowers slen-
der, tubes red; limb large and spreading, rosy-
purple. May and June.

E. princeps coccinea.—A beautiful but rather
straggling grower. The leaves are thick, hairy, and
dark green ; flowers stout, tubes bright scarlet. The
original EF. princeps is a far less showy plant than
this variety. There is also a form, with pinkish
flesh-coloured flowers, called carnea. All are ex-
. tremely handsome. May and June.

E. propendens.—In habit of growth this resembles
somewhat EF. hyemalis, and, like it also, this is a verv
free bloomer; flowers campanulate, drooping, and
soft purplish-lilac in colour. May to July.

E. pyramidalis.—A soft-wooded free-growing spe-
cies, erect in growth, with narrow slightly woolly
leaves ; flowers tubular, produced from the points of
all the shoots in abundance, rosy-pink throughout.
February to May.

E. retorta.—An elegant hard-wocded kind ; leaves
recurved, dark green; flowers in terminal whorls,
tubes reddish-pink. June to August.

E. retorta major—More robust than the species,
and the flowers are larger; tubes red, with a darker
band round the neck; limb spreading, white. July
to October.

E. rubens.—A small, compact, free-growing kind ;
leaves dense, bright green; flowers bell-shaped,
dark red. July to August.

E, rubro-calyz, sometimes called ruber-calyz, and
also rubido. It takes its name from the fact of the
calyx being coloured as well as the corolla. It is
an erect soft-wooded kind, and a free bloomer;
tubes pure white; calyx reddish-purple. May to
July.

E, Savilleiana.—A dense-growing species with
dark green leaves, end small bell-shaped flowers of
areddish-pink hue. June to August.

E, Shannoniana.—A grand variety of robust habit ;
leaves spreading, dark green; flowers large, tubular,
much inflated at the base, white, shaded with reddish-
purple. June to August.

E. Shannoniana glabra. most desirable plant. It
is w strong grower; the whorls are many-flowered;
the tubes are much swollen at the base, ivory-white,
and quite free from the viscid gum so common to
these plants. July and August.

E. Sindryana, sometimes called E. zingerella. It is
a handsome soft-wooded plant of the hyemalis section,
which it much resembles both in growth and bloom.
It flowers, however, in March and April.

E. Spenceriana.—This very distinct and useful
variety is a soft-wooded plant of free growth, with
dense, dark green leaves; flowers tubular, long, and
slenier; tubes smallest at base ; purplish-lilac. May
to July.

E. Thunbergii—aA very curious and ornamental
species; leaves glaucous; flowers highly coloured,
being yellow, green, white, and scarlet. May to
July.

E. tricolor coronata.—In all the varieties of EF. tri-
color the leaves are very closely set and more or less
clothed with ferruginous hairs, which renders them
liable to attacks of mildew if the foliage is allowed
to get wet. The form now under consideration pro-
duces many-flowered whorls of large tubular blooms,
which are pinkish fiesh-colour, neck banded with
green; limb white. July and August.

E. tricolor fammea.—F lowers large, much inflated,
fiery-red at base, passing to white towards the upper
part, neck green. June and July.

E. tricolor Holdfordiana.—Flowers very large, base
of tube pale flesh, passing into reddish-pink, neck
green. June and July.

E. tricolor profusa.—Tubes much swollen at base,
where they are bright crimson, shading to rosy-car-
mine and white, neck yellowish-green. July and
August.

E. tricolor Wilsoniana.—Flowers large and much
inflated, sharply contracted at the throat, rosy-pink
at the base, passing to white, neck banded green.
June to August.

E. triumphans.—This species belongs to the arbu-
rescent section, that includes elegans, andromedeflora,
Thunbergii, taxifolia, &c., in which the calyx is
usually highly coloured as well as the corolla. They
are also extremely difficult to increase from cuttings,
but are raised from seed. The present plant is a
Dold and somewhat coarse-growing kind; leaves
large, smooth, and dark green; flowers globose,
drooping, and pure white, with an enlarged calyx.
May and June. ;

E. tubeformis.— A very showy kind; flowers
long; the tubes rich red, mouth rosy-pink; limb
spreading, white. April to July.

E. venosa.—Leaves dark green, nearly smooth;
whorls of flowers large; tubes rich bright crimson ;
limb white. July and August.

122 - CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

E. ventricosa breviflora.—The ventricosas are a very
beautiful section. They are mostly dwarf and com-
pact in habit, with dense foliage, flowers long,
tubular, and disposed in terminal umbels on all the
branches. ‘The flowers are all smooth and destitute
of gum; this variety is a rather stronger grower
than the majority. Flowers almost globose, of a
uniform deep rose. May and June.

E. ventricosa carnea.—Leaves smal; flowers long,
inflated at base, soft flesh-colour. May to July.

E. ventricosa coccinea minor._—A very dwarf, dense-
growing variety, with dark green leaves, and a most
profuse bloomer ; flowers long, slender, tubes china-
white; limb spreading, bright red. May and
June.

E. ventricosa grandiflora.—F lowers very large and
wholly deep purplish-crimson ; a superb form. June
and July.

E. ventricosa magnifica.—A somewhat stiff, erect-
growing kind; an abundant bloomer ; flowers rosy-
red. June and July.

E. ventricosa splendens.—This form is more hirsute
than any of the others; flowers large, the tubes
swollen in the middle, porcelain-white ; limb rosy-
purple tipped with white. June and July.

E, ventricosa tricolor,—F lowers long, tubes creamy-
white, flesh-colour at neck; limb white. A very
handsome variety. July to August.

E. Vernoniana.—A grand variety, with flowers in
very large terminal whorls, tubes much swollen at
base, sharply contracted at the throat, pure waxy-
white, neck banded green; limb broad and spread-
ing. June to August.

E. vestita alba.—The varieties of this section are
not very numerous, but they are very distinct from
all other Heaths. They are rather apt to lose their
leaves, and do not conform to any style of training.
They are characterised by their stout erect growths,
and dense, long, dark green, linear leaves, which
are soft and silky. The flowers are tubular, semi-
erect, slightly curved, smallest at the base, and are
disposed in whorls an inch or two below the points
of the shoot. In vestita alba the flowers are rather
short, pure white. May to July.

E. vestita carnea.—Flowers numerous, soft pink or
flesh-colour. June and July.

E. vestita coccinea—Similar to the preceding ;
colour bright reddish-scarlet. July and August.

E. vestita rosea.—Flowers about the size of alba,
in large whorls, deep, rich rose; very handsome.
August and September.

E. Victoria.—A hard-wooded kind of great beauty,
robust, in habit, and an abundant bloomer; flowers
large, tubular, inflated at base, tubes purplish-crim-
son, neck banded with black; limb white. April
and May.

E. Westphalingia.—This is also called Z. undulata,
An erect, quick-growing kind; flowers tubular, of a
uniform soft red. May to July.

E. Wilmoreana.—A soft-wooded kind, with grey-
green leaves; flowers bell-shaped, pendulous, purple
at base, tipped with white ; an abundant bloomer;
one of the most popular and generally grown of all
early Heaths. February to April.

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.

By D, T. Fisu, assistED BY WILLIAM CARMICHAEL.

ARRANGEMENT.

Place.—<As to the place, near to or within sight
of the dwelling-house, whether that be a mansion,
a villa, or a cottage, is undoubtedly the best place.

‘It was a vulgar error that demanded the separation

of pleasure from profit in the ornamentation of the
dwelling-house; and even the highest and most
severely esthetic taste of the present day is pre-
pared to admit fruit-trees into the home landscape
or garden. Perhaps the most suitable and conve-
nient place for the fruit garden is the intermediate
area between the flower and the vegetable or kitchen
garden. It is only fitting that plants grown mainly
or wholly for their beauty should embellish and
enwreathe the base and the immediate foreground of
the dwelling-house, and our fruit trees might make
good their claim to this first circle of absolute
beauty. For what flower or flowering shrub can
match or excel the snowy whiteness of Cherries,
Plums and Pears, or the delicate and deep pink of
Apple and Peach-blossom? Still, on the whole, our
gradation has taste, propriety, and convenience to
recommend it. Flowers, chaste and bright, on green
turf and bright gravel, to form a soft rich base of
beauty round the dwelling-house. Beyond this the
fruit garden, leading pleasantly on or into the kitchen
garden proper and culinary department.

Of courée, each may be kept purely for its own
specific purpose, or the three may be more or less
mixed. But, asa rule, the fruit garden will prove
most satisfactory, alike on principles of taste and
grounds of utility, when occupying a mid position—
a sort of half-way house between. the purely orna-
mental and strictly utilitarian portions of the
garden. These terms, however, must be understood
in a limited and comparative sense. For it will be
one of our main objects to make the fruit garden
highly beautiful as well as profitable; and even a
kitchen garden, skilfully cropped and carefully kept,
if not exactly a thing of beauty or joy for ever, may
yet yield a rich harvest of satisfaction through ita
order, cleanliness, and plenty.

“THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.

Size.—This may vary from a rod to an acre or
several acres. But apart from the orchard, which is
not included in our idea of a fruit garden, it seldom
may exceed a quarter or half an acre. Of course,
much depends on the size and habits of the family,
and whether all the fruit is to be consumed at home
or part of it disposed of to others.

Neither need fruit gardens be nearly so large as
formerly. For the last twenty years the chief im-
provements in fruit-culture have run in two direc-
tions—the forcing of the trees into earlier fruit-
fulness, and the gathering of more fruit from less
space. The huge trees of the olden times have
been cut down into pillars, pyramids, bushes, cor-
dons ; and these small trees have been forced into an
amount of fertility within a limit of time that would
have read like « fairy tale to the older cultivators.
Such wholesale reduction in the size of trees, and in
the intervening period between their starting and
maturity, have enabled the size of fruit gardens to be
cut down to the smallest limits, until it is hardly an
exaggeration to assert that every yard of earth may
grow a fruit-tree to perfection. When the general
public becomes thoroughly alive to the revolution
that has been effected in fruit-culture, through the
employment of dwarfing and fructifying stocks, the
practice of root-pruning, and the introduction of re-
pressive systems of treatment and training, fruit-trees
will find their way into every garden, and fruit gar-
dens become as plentiful and common as the never-
failing flower-bed and borders of dwarf trees or
shrubs. As already stated, the fruit garden might
readily be made as beautiful as either, while far more
profitable. The smaller it is, the more productive as
a rule, and thus more interesting, neither cultural
skill nor taste being necessarily associated with size.

Plan.—The character of the fruit garden may
be infinitely varied. For example, it may be a
square, a parallelogram, an oval, or a circle, enclosed
with walls or hedges, or not enclosed at all. The
different fruits may be massed in blocks, or mar-
shalled in lines, eavh sort of fruit grown together,
or different sorts mixed, trees massed in one place,
bush fruit in another, or the two interlined. Again,
the surface may be on a dead level, even fall, or be
chosen or made as irregular as possible. For ex-
ample, one of the most successful fruit gardens ever
seen by the writer wes thrown into a series of ridges
and furrows, the warmest sides of the ridges being
nine feet, and the cooler sides six. The character,
number, width, and direction of the walks introduce
an endless source of variety ; while not a few fruit
gardens are almost made or marred on the question of
walks or no walks. The walks may also be raised
above, sunk below, or made even with the surface.

122

It may also be remarked in passing that there seems
no particular reason why walks should be almost
invariably straight in fruit gardens. Where they
are so, a good plan to furnish shade, and add to the
beauty, plenty, and enjoyment of the garden, is to
throw light wire or iron arches over the main
paths, and use them as trainers for Apple, Pear,
Cherry, or other fruit-trees. A marvellous amount
of variety may be thrown into fruit gardens by
furnishing them with trees of different character.
For example, the old-fashioned semi-forest-like fruit-
trees of the olden times, with which the more
primitive fruit gardens were chiefly furnished, have
almost disappeared before the trim pillars and
pyramids, squat bushes, vases, and cordons, the
natural products >f dwarfing stocks and new me-
thods of root-pruning.

Returning to our starting-point, few things give
greater variety to the fruit garden than the vital
difference involved between the two extremes of
walls and no walls. Again, walls of differing
heights greatly alter the character of gardens. In
regard to this, it may be said that the age of high
walls from fourteen to sixteen feet has passed away.
When well furnished, these were simply magnifi-
cent: but, with all the help given by rich borders,
they took years to furnish, and they cast a baleful
shade behind, thus giving a dark and sombre look
and feeling to many a fruit garden of the old school.

But the use of walls not only imparts shelter and
conserves heat, but greatly widens and extends the
area of cultivation by rendering the successful cul-
ture of such luscious fruits as Peaches, Nectarines,
Apricots, Plums, and the finer Pears in the open
air possible in our climate. By cutting down their
height to an average of ten or twelve feet, their
efficiency is increased, their thickness and conse-
quent cost greatly diminished. By adopting curvi-
linear, panelled, and pillared walls, a maximum
amount of stability and protection may be obtained at
a minimum cost. These forms also introduce more
beauty into fruit gardens than the more common
straight walls.

For mere purposes of shelter, living hedges of
Beech, Yew, Privet, Arborvite, Box, Holly, or
other plants are quite as efficient as walls. Even
dead screens may be utilised for purposes of pro-
tection to fruit-trees; and some of the finest fruit-
trees ever seen by the writer were ripened on a
fence formed of furze, firmly fixed in position with
a rough line of strong stakes.

In not a few situations fruit gardens are as well
or better without screens or shelter of any sort,
and excess of shelter is always injurious. It often
attenuates and weakens fruit-trees so much, that they
suffer more from the indirect effects of the shelter

124 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

than benefit from its direct power of protection.
Very high walls are apt to add to the destructive
power of spring frosts by the additional stillness
they give to the enclosed area of air, this stillness
increasing the energy of radiation.

Hence, too, the vital importance of choosing
rolling or uneven ground for the fruit garden,
where that is practicable. The air is less stagnant
on such surfaces, and hence rolling ground not
merely imparts variety but brings safety to the
fruit garden. Hence much of the labour and ex-

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enclosing with walls. The nearer the fruit garden
approaches to a square, the shorter the wall needed
to enclose any given area. With a view also of
securing the largest possible amount of the most
genial wall-space, the length of the garden from
east to west should be as much again, or as five to
three, of its width from north to south. This will
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Fig. 1.—Pian ror a -Froir Garpen.
1, Walks ; 2, Fruit-tree Borders ; 3, Beds for Fruit-trees.

pense incurred in making fruit gardens level is not
seldom worse than wasted. Gardens on the flat or
« regular hanging slope may be more easily culti-
vated, but they are seldom so fruitful as those on
the side of a rolling hill, with a gentle inclination
to the sunny south or genial west.

The accompanying ground-plan of a fruit garden
is one of many plans that may be adopted. It is
not desirable to slavishly adhere to any particular.
arrangement, though the pleasures and profits of
most fruit gardens are in direct ratio to the fore-
sight and skill brought to bear on their planning
and culture.

In most cases some form of square—parallelogram,
rhombus, or rhomboid, the two latter long squares,
aet out of aquare, or rather out of the meridian, so as

is the most valuable for the culture of Peaches,
Nectarines, Grape-vines, and Figs. According to
locality, these walls may be direct south at noon,
or at 1l am., or 1 p.m, These apparently slight
changes tend to moderate or regulate the heat on
the southern walls, and to make both the east and
west walls more generally useful for the culture of
the better sorts of fruit, such as Peaches, Plums,
Pears, Apricots, Cherries, &c.

The question of the proper aspect of the fruit gar-
den is almost as important, where the fruit garden is
not enclosed with walls; as climate is very largely
determined by aspect, and differences in temperature
varying from 5° to 10° may often be found within a
few yards. Such differences may arise from shelter
or the lack of it, the inclination, drainage, character,

~

; DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

and texture-of the soil, and other causes. Asa rule
the most genial, that is the warmest, aspects should
be chosen, though there are exceptions to this, as in
the case of bush-fruits, such as Gooseberrics and
Currants, these being mostly finest and, more sin-
gular still, sweetest on the coldest sites.

Of course, thorough drainage, so as to prevent
the possibility of the accumulation, rather than
insure the removal, of stagnant water, is indispens-
able. A depth of two or more feet of good soil
should also he provided, and where it is impractic-
able to obtain such a depth all over the surface, the
system of mound or ridge and furrow planting may
he resorted to. It has almost passed into an axiom
among cultivators that a load, that is a cubic yard,
of earth will suffice to grow and preserve in health
and fertility a fruit-tree for a good many years.

On wet soils and subsoils considerable success has
been attained by forming the soil into a mound
above the line of the general surface.

Forming Barriers against the Roots
Penetrating too Deeply into Barren Soils
or Injurious Subsoils.—It used to be thought
that a barrier of barrenness would suffice to arrest
the boring properties or downward tendencies of the
roots. Hence layers of stones, brick refuse, chalk,
and even puddled clay and sea or other sand were
placed under the roots of trees to keep them near to
the surface.

Such expedients only hastened the downward
course of the roots. Hence the origin of concrete,
stone, slate, or asphalted bases for fruit-tree beds
and borders. These proved successful in preventing
the roots going further down; but as they were
generally covered witha layer of drainage, the latter
seemed to draw the roots down to the concrete or
barrier, where they were not seldom found spreading
out into a perfect network of fibres just where there
was least for them to feed on.

Hence, though the practice of rendering the base
of fruit-tree borders impervious to the roots is still
adopted in many cases, the modern fruit-grower
entices the roots up by liberal culture and food on
the surface, rather than arrests their downward.
course by physical obstacles to their further pro-
gress.

Among these improved methods of root-culture
are: a firmer surface, freedom from digging, and sur-
face feeding in the form of mulching with maiden
soils or nourishing manure.

Most of the dwarfing stocks employed are also
distinguished by ‘freer rooting, and this tendency is
intensified by the modern practice of root-pruning.
But as most of these practices may be again alluded
to in describing the special culture of particular

125

fruits, it will not be needful further to advert to
them in these general remarks on the fruit garden.

Fruit garaens on grass are mostly called orchards,
the trees in them necessarily having rather tall
stems and being placed at considerable distances
apart, in order to keep the grass green underneath ;
but not a few orchards are sub-cropped with fruit-
bushes and Raspberries, and such are again inter-
cropped with vegetables. But, generally, modern
fruit gardens are planted with dwarf or pyramidal
trees, at distances of from four feet to six, or, at the
most, eight feet asunder, only leaving sufficient
space to afford free access for cultural purposes and
for gathering the crops of fruit. The entire area is,
in fact, covered with the trees. and the surface of
the soil kept free of weeds or duly mulched over to
conserve the moisture or feed the roots. By keeping
each species and variety of fruit as nearly as may be
to itself, each may the more readily have the special
culture that it needs, without injury, or interference
with others.

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

By James Hupson.

INTRODUCTION.

MONG the various uses to which cut flowers
and plants are applied, perhaps there is no
one which has. received such impetus of late years
as decoration of a festive character. Flowers are
now in far greater request for the embellishment of
the dinner-table, as well as in many other ways,
than was the case even a few years ago. This has
been undoubtedly the means of fostering a greater
demand for those plants and flowers that are the
best adapted for such requirements, causing many
suitable subjects to be cultivated in numbers,
whereas formerly only solitary examples were to be
found in many establishments. It has likewise
been productive of good in bringing many flowers
intc more prominent notice. Flowers that would
escape the notice of many a casual observer in the
open air, when surrounded by more gaily-attired
examples, will oftentimes meet with much favour
when artistically arranged in suitable vases, and
brought under close observation, so that their par-

ticular beauties are the more readily discernible.
Even with a limited space at command, there are
numbers of suitable subjects that can be advan-
tageously cultivated for the purposes now being
dwelt upon, The immense numbers of herbaceous
plants, of many genera and species, will yield a
good supply the greater part of the year, and the
intervening periods can easily be bridged over by
those who have a greer-house at their command.

126

More fortunate still for those lovers of floral decora-
tions who can draw upon the resources of our stoves
and hot-houses, wherewith to beautify and render
recherché their various arrangements, when for a
while the wintry blasts lay prostrate the beauties of
our hardier flowers, with but few exceptions. Hap-
pily, however, those harbingers of spring-time, the
Snowdrop and the Crocus, quickly unfold their
blossoms, ere the frosts and snows have left us even,
for the return of more congenial weather. These
are soon followed by the Primrose in various shades
of colour, the Oxlip, the Cowslip, and the Polyanthus,
all of which can be turned to good account in a
rustic manner for many decorations. <As these, in
their turn, fade and’ wither away before the bright
rays of the coming summer, we have a wealth of
beautiful flowers that vie with each other in bril-
liancy of colour or in beauty of form and outline.
So on throughout the sunshine of the summer
months, the flower garden yields an immense variety
of choice subjects for decorations.

As the summer wanes away and signs of coming
autumn are apparent in the beautiful tints of the
foliage of our trees and deciduous shrubs, there
again is another wide field of selection should
flowers be somewhat scarce. The beautiful hues of
colour that many leaves assume during this period
of the year are the admiration of all lovers of nature.
The artist gathers therefrom many suggestions for
his pencil and brush. The lover of floral arrange-
ments is also an artist, using the natural beauties
wherewith the all-beneficent Creator has endowed
this earth of ours, and displaying them for the
better admiration and entertainment of others, as
occasion may occur, each in their own sphere of life.

It is wonderful how some enthusiastic admirers
of flowers will contrive, either by the aid of flowers
or foliage individually, or both combined, to make
most effective arrangements with but little material
from which to choose. The wild flowers of our
fields and hedgerows will, when tastefully arranged
in as natural a manner as possible, most favourably
compare with the choicest inmates of our hot-
houses, if these latter have not had the same
artistic taste displayed in their grouping together.
Instances in proof of this may be frequently seen
at the horticultural exhibitions held throughout the
length and breadth of the country during the
summer months. Disappointments have tnereby
been occasioned to those exhibitors who have relied
on the quality of their flowers to gain the coveted
awards, when to their dismay they havy scen other
competitors placed before them with tastefully ar-
ranged vases composed of selections from commoner
and less pretentious subjects. I would strongly urge
those who desire to excel in dinner-table and

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

other decorations also, to pay close attention to the
variety and different tastes in arrangement that are
brought together on these occasions. Notes should
be made of such methods and selections of flowers as
appear the most effective, and the first opportunity
should be taken to improve upon the hints thus
gained for decorations in the home circle. By this
means a more ready knowledge of the best applicable
uses of various flowers will soon be gained.

In the arrangement of cut flowers and foliage for
all decorations, there are many subsidiary points to
be considered.

MATERIALS.

In order to attain the desired end of securing
an artistic arrangement, it is necessary to have a
knowledge of what flowers are best adapted for
the vases or epergnes that are intended to be used,
so that they can be displayed to the best advan-
tage in the same. By this means any waste in
material can be obviated, or reduced to the lowest
possible limit. For instance, in some cases flowers
with short available foot-stalks could be arranged
with good effect, whilst in other instances those with
long stems would be of far greater service. Length-
ening the stems in an artificial manner with wire
can, of course, be performed, but it ought to be
avoided in all practicable cases for the better preser-
vation of the flowers.

Ground-work of the Design.—Many per-
sons make it « practice to arrange vases of cut
flowers without having previously inserted some fern
or foliage as ground-work. This is, we think,
a mistake, and especially in the case of large-sized
arrangements, which necessitate the use of a
goodly quantity of material in the form of flowers.
In all table decorations, other than small specimen
glasses, we find the work is far more easily per-
formed by making good use of fern-fronds at the
commencement. The Maidenhair fern is always a
favourite with floral decorators ; but many use it as
a finish to their work, whereas we think, and have
found from practice, that it is best used before any
flowers are inserted at all. Over a ground-work of
moss the fronds of this and other ferns with miscel-
laneous foliage can be so arranged as if still on the
plant, in a natural-growing position. After the
insertion of the requisite foliage, the flowers can be
arranged to give tone and harmony to the whole.
Thus we should be toning up to the required
standard in colour effect; not, as many would have
it done, by first placing the flowers (in a far too’
methodical manner oftentimes) over the entire sur-
face, then toning down by the addition of fern-
fronds, &c. .Comparison between the two methods

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

will make this plain at once to any one acquainted
with the work; in the former manner just suffi-
cient flowers are used to give the requisite effect, in
the latter method the fern-fronds are used to hide
some of the fléwers that ought not to have had a
place at all. Here is a waste of material decidedly,
which ought at all times to be avoided; and a sacri-
fice, too, is made of the elegant and graceful ap-
pearance that ought to be produced, in favour of a
display that imparts density and heaviness. It is
always easy to add one or two fern-fronds at the
finish, should it be necessary ; but we find with
practice that about the right quantity can be ar-
ranged beforehand.

Foliage.—The foliage of many kinds of flower-
ing plants and bulbs can be used most advantageously
in conjunction with the flower of each given genus.
This is an important point frequently overlooked by
floral decorators, who, perhaps from force of habit
more than any other assignable cause, prefer to
rely far too much on the supply derived from ferns
—the Maidenhair fern in particular. We would
not for one moment disparage this valuable fern for
decorative purposes, but when « preponderance of
it is allowed in a collective group of decorations
it will produce a sameness and repetition that,
with a little forethought, might easily have been
avoided. We should not then hear the complaint so
often made, that the Maidenhair ferns had been
robbed so much for cut purposes; and Fig. 1 will
show how possible it is to produce a fine effect with-
out ferns of any kind. It will be found that the
foliage of many bulbous plants is the best adjunct
to the flowers of the same which can possibly be used
in floral arrangements. Take, for instance, a few
spikes of Gladiolus in two or three distinct colours,
and arrange them in a suitable vase; nothing will
associate so well with these as their own foliage.
The Calla Lily (Richardia e@thiopica) may be cited
as another instance in the same direction; the White
Water-lily (Vymphea alba) likewise is displayed to
the best advantage when resting on its own beautiful
leaves. These latter are somewhat fugacious, and
require repeated renewal: this is the great draw-
back to their more frequent use. The Cape Lily
(Schizostylis coccinea) and other Liliaceous plants
from the South of Africa—such as Tritonia aurea,
the Sparaxis, the Ixia, and the Babiana—should all
be used in unison with their own foliage. The
Daffodils (Narcissus), now so popular with floral
admirers, may be taken as another example; we
often use leaf-growths of these pretty bulbs cut from
close to the ground when requiring to arrange any
of their flowers. The handsome blossoms of the
Tulips also never look better than when arranged

127

with their own beautiful leaves, provided the latter
are well developed.
Of our more choice exotics among bulbous plants,

‘the Lily of the Amazon (Eucharis amazonica) is still

another instance. When the last two or three
flowers only are left on any spikes of this plant, we
like then to take off the whole of them at once, with
a good length of the flower-stem attached. Two or
three such spikes, with some of the smallest foliage
of the same plant, will make a handsome decoration
by themselves. The lovely trusses of Pancratium
Fragrans will associate well with the foliage of Aspi-
distra lurida, its own leaves being somewhat too
rigid and not often so conveniently spared as the
substitute we have named. Tallota purpurea will
go well with the leaves of the Aspidistra also.
These are sufficient instances among bulbous plants
to illustrate our meaning, which may easily be
adopted as readily as in the case of the Lily of the
Valley, with which hardly any one would think of
using other than its own foliage.

Of other plants and shrubs many notable cases
might be cited, with the flowers of which their own
foliage is the best accompaniment. The Rose, among
many others, affords an admirable illustration of
this method. Suppose we take some few flowers of
the tea-scented kinds for a decoration, no foliage will
be more appropriate wherewith to arrange them
than their own beautiful leaves, especially such as,
in their younger stages of growth, partake of a
bronzy or coppery hue. The shoots also from some
of the climbing Roses, as the Banksian and the
Ayrshire, are most useful in larger arrangements.

The Chrysanthemum (double kinds) furnishes us
with an instance in which a hardy and common
shrub, viz., Berberis (Mahonia) Aquifolium, can be
made of the greatest service as a groundwork for
this popular autumn flower. The Winter Jasmine
(Jasminum nudiflorum) is another case in which the
Berberis foliage is a valuable aid. The single
Dahlias, now so universally cultivated, afford still
another illustration of the value of this same shrub
to accompany their flowers. We do, in fact, put
nearly as much value on the Berberis Aquifolium as
on some of the most popular ferns for decorative use
in floral grouping. The Copper Beech (Fagus syl-
vatica purpurea) supplies us with another useful help
in decorations, consisting chiefly of white or yellow
flowers, whilst the Variegated Maple (Acer Negundo
albo-variegatum) forms a good contrast to various
shades of blue or scarlet. Another climbing ever-
green—which is not so frequently seen as it should
be, and still less used in a cut state—is Garrya
elliptica, the long and pendulous catkins of which,
during the months of January and February, cause
it to be much admired when arranged as a fringing

128 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

to a trumpet vase of medium height. Only recently
we used them in this way for a dinner-table decora-
tion, some of the catkins measuring fully ten inches
in length.

Of the inmates of our conservatories, green-
houses, and stoves, there are a great many plants of
shrubby growth whose flowers are never seen to
better advantage than when in company with their
own foliage. The Cape Jasmines (Gardenias) may be
quoted as a notable case; the bright glossy green of
their leaves will make the best background possible,
and if a few small shoots can be spared, 8o much the

With the Epacris, the addition of a few sprays of
Ericas that nearest resemble the common Heather
will be all that is required, such for instance as E.
caffra, E. gracilis, and E. melanthera. .

Besides the few cases of exterior aid from other
than the foliage of each given genus of flowering
subjects that we have quoted as samples, there are
numerous most useful helps to be found both among
our hardy plants and tender exotics also. Of the
former, the species of Sedge Grass (Carew) are at all
times of service in arrangements of any Liliaceous
plants; another near ally is to be found in the

Fig. 1.—AN ARRSNGEMENT WITHOUT MAIDENHAIR OR ANY OTHER Fern.

>

better. It will at times entail a sacrifice of one or
more partially-developed flowers if much growth
is taken off with the fully-expanded bloom, but
smaller pieces of undergrowth can be got to go with
the blossoms in such cases. The large and various
family of Begonias afford us a class of plants
that can be made to do good service in decorations
without the aid of other foliage. The handsome
leaves of some of the varieties, as B. metallica, B.
incarnata purpurescens, and other types, chiefly such
as come under the classification of ‘“ Ornamental
Foliage varieties,” are all most valuable when ap-
propriately used. The beautiful shades of colour
to be found in the Camellia need no other foliage
than their own deep green leaves to set them off
to advantage. The graceful foliage of many species
of the numerous family of Acacias forms an ample
accompaniment for their pretty spikes of bloom.

Cyperus alternifolius of our stoves, which is de-
serving of more extended use than it often meets
with. Another handy grass is the Variegated
Arundo or Ribbon Grass of our gardens; somewhat
resembling this, but more graceful in habit, is the
variegated Eulalia japonica of our green-houses.
The Eguisetums or Horse-tails aro in character
when used with Water-lilies and other water or
bog plants. Some people use the leaves of the
Pampas Grass, after having split the same witha
common pin into narrow strips; we do not, how-
ever, approve of such methods being resorted to.
The Meadow Rue (Thalictrum adiantifolium), also
called the Maidenhair Thalictrum, is a very useful
substitute for fern when the latter is scarce. The
smaller-leaved forms of Ivies make most beautiful
backgrounds, and in rustic arrangements can be
freely interspersed with the flowers. Of the Ivies

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

we prefer those which assume a bronzy hue during
the autumn and winter months, also the kinds with
finely-cut or laciniated foliage. A few of the

129

eitchii) is at all times of service when it can be
obtained in good condition, and this is almost in-
variably the case.

The several varieties of grape-

Fig. 2.—A FREE ARRANGEMENT OF FLOWERS, FERNS, AND FOLIAGE,

variegated forms are also very pretty, especially one
or two kinds with a tinge of pale pink around the
edges of the leaves. During the autumn months,
also, the Virginian Creeper furnishes a useful addi-
tion, the points of the shoots in particular. The
small-leaved species of the same genus (dmpelopsis

33

vine (Vitis heterophylla) that are grown as climbers
for the beauty of their foliage, are all very pretty
in larger forms of decorations. The foliage too is
valuable in garnishing the dessert, thereby saving
the otherwise almost constant demands upon those
kinds on which we rely for our grapes (Titia

130 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

vinifera). Of the Honeysuckles, two or three kinds
are very pretty when used in fairly long sprays: the
variegated form (Lonicera aureo-reticulata), and the
free-flowering white variety (Z. brachypoda), are two
of the best.

Among green-house plants and climbers, we have
several valuable helps; one of the best is Fieus repens
and its smaller form, F. repens minima. These can
be grown on any damp, green wall, that would other-
wise be an eyesore. The variegated variety of
Solanum jasminoides is a pretty thing in its way when
used in fairly long pieces. From the stove-house we
obtain a wealth of richly-coloured and diversified
foliage that is a most material aid in all choice
decorations ; supplies of which may often be taken
in lieu of using so many flowers, giving, by so doing,
a greater variety in the arrangements, as well as
being a considerable saving in flowers also. Small
leaves of the Alocasias, such as 4. metallica, A. macro-
rhiza variegata, and A. Jenningsi, can be effectively
arranged with bold flowers. Their near allies, the
Caladiams, are another type of useful ornamental-
leaved plants to cut from; C. argyrites (the Silver-
leaf Caladium) being the very best of the whole
genus, yielding an immense number of its small
leaves during a lengthy season. Like the Alocasias,
the small leaves of all the other sorts of Caladiums
will be found the most available.

The South African Asparagus (4. plumosus nanus).
is one of the most valuable additions that have been
udded to our collections of late years. To the floral
ilecorator it is an inestimable aid in almost any kind
of arrangement. Its beautiful branches, which are
finer than the fronds of the most delicate fern, are
of a bright cheerful green. Sprays of this Asparagus
have the valuable property of retaining their fresh-
ness in water for two or three weeks; I have
kept it in good condition myself in rooms where
a quantity of gas is daily consumed, for the lesser
time named. The same spray can be used for nights
in succession, without the aid of water to keep it
fresh, provided it be placed in water during the
day-time. This property of great persistency will
cause it to be much sought after when it becomes
better known. The great drawback to its more
extended cultivation at present is the difficulty
that is experienced, by expert propagators even, in
increasing the stock. Asparagus tenuissimus is an-
other beautiful species, also from South Africa; it
is quite distinct from 4. pluiosus nanus, and better
adapted perhaps for entwining around the slender
stems of many glass vases than that species. These
kinds of Asparagus will in time be formidable rivals
to our more favourite ferns, on which'so many now
rely for cut purposes. Cissus discolor is an old
favourite, without a rival in its way; nothing sur-

'

passes the richness of the markings of its beautiful
leaves before they arrive at maturity. Long shoots
of this Cissus, when grown in a fair amount of sun-
shine, are beautiful objects if stretched out on a
white table-cloth, or for circling among the branches
of silver épergnes.

The large family of Crotons, to which so many
choice additions have been made of late years, gives
us an immense variety of richly-coloured foliage.
The individual leaves of the broader forms and many
of the long pendulous types can frequently be turned
to good account for dinner-table decorations, showing
to advantage when under artificial light. The
narrower-leaved varieties can be used in the form
of single shoots also; any beautifully - coloured
shoot even, of either form, might be cut from the
plant and used for one night, and in the morning be
returned to the garden for propagation without any
fear of injury. The Fittonias give us some beautiful
objects for dwarf arrangements and as a carpeting to
table plants. F. argyroxeura is the best adapted for
cutting from, looking very pretty when dotted over a
fresh tuft of Selaginelta denticulata. The Marantas
furnish us with a distinct type of foliage, that asso-
ciates well with white and light-coloured flowers
The leaves, however, have a propensity of curling up
and becoming unsightly in a few hours. The beau-
tiful spathes of Maranta Warscewiczii are most wel-
come when in flower, the ivory-white contrasting so
well with the dark velvety foliage. Amongst the
Screw Pines we make good use of one variety in a
cut state—viz., Pandanus graminifolius. Its grass-
like foliage is very light and elegant. The Stove
Grass (Panicum variegatum) is so well known, it
scarcely requires any recommendation. Small shoots
can be worked in around the bases of such flower-
vases as are dressed out so as to rest on the table-
cloth. Paullinia thalictrifolia will be found most
serviceable, being both elegant and distinct in its
growth, which is semi-scandent. Shoots of moderate
length will produce a beautiful effect as a margin to
any vase of a foot or more in height, allowing the
points to almost touch the cloth. ‘The handsome
shell-like leaves of the Peperomias are very appro-
priate additions to many arrangements; they last
well too ina cut state, and supply us with a substitute
for Caladium argyrites during the winter months.
Being freely produced, one can well afford to cut
them liberally. The Tradescantias, again, give us
another variety of foliage to which we can turn”
pretty frequently without fear of injury.

Another beautiful climbing plant is Myrsiphyllum
asparagoides, from the Cape of Good Hope; if this be
grown in a temperate house, with the convenience of
an open border, so that its roots can ramble at their
own will, an abundance of material for entwining

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS. 13L

around the stems of glass vases and épergnes will be
available. It is a plant much sought after for this
purpose by the floral decorators of New York and
other trans-Atlantic cities. Being of a distinct
character, light and elegant in growth, and of a
pleasing shade of green, it is one of the best plants
for the purposes just enumerated that can well be
grown. The several examples of foliage adjuncts
that we have quoted will be of great service in
decorations, choosing each kind with discrimination,
and having regard to the flowers that are to be the
predominating feature in each given case. ‘The use
of such wil) greatly relieve the severe strain that is
at times put upon the ferns for cut supply.

Ferns and Mosses.—Of these valuable asso-
ciates with flowers, there are a goodly number which
are not so much cultivated as they deserve to be.
One of the very best is Gleichenia (Mertensia) flabel-
lata, from New Holland; this is easily grown in
a warm green-house. When a plant has attained
goodly dimensions, the last developed whorl or
growth makes an excellent base on which to arrange
a vase of trumpet shape with flowers. It is a fern
of the greatest durability when cut, keeping in good
condition quite a fortnight. Certainly it is, in a
measure, a scarce plant atthe present time ; but were
it more sought after, a necessary supply would soon
be propagated to meet the demand. Of the larger-
growing forms of Adiantum, one of the best is 4.
Cardiochlena, from Caraccas. The fronds of this fern
are of great persistency, and being of much beauty,
are of great service in all arrangements that have
the base resting on the table. 4. Sancte-Catharine
is another useful kind for the same purpose. Two
other choice sorts are A. Feei and A. Wiiliamsii,
both of medium growth. Of the smaller types of
Adiantum, that are quite distinct from the common
kind of Maiden-hair, A. amabile is very pretty; its
long pendent fronds look at their best when fringing
a tall trumpet vase. 4. concinnwn, with its long
arching fronds of a roseate hue in the young state,
are beautiful when in association with the foregoing
species, or even by themselves. The lovely fronds
of A. Farleyense, which are best used when in a well-
hardened state, should not be placed too thickly
together, or their individual beauty will not so readily
be seen. It is not one of the best to keep in a cut
state, therefore defer using it until immediately
required for display. Several of the Davallias
are amongst the most durable of all ferns when cut,
not given to curl up or wither if exposed to cold
currents of air. To the decorator one or more of
the best-adapted kinds are simply invaluable. JD.
bullata (the Squirrel’s Foot) is one of the prettiest.
This species produces its fronds very freely; these

can be used when in a young state and of a pale
green colour without disappointment. As age ap-
proaches they assume a darker hue, but none the
less useful. D. Tyermanni, with fronds of a glaucous
green, is another good species; so are D. dissecta, D.
decora, D. elegans, and D. tenuifolia stricta. Each
and all are good, and the comparative case with
which they can be cultivated should cause them to
be used extensively. The recently introduced species,
D. fijiensis major, should also be a valuable kind,
being very distinct. A few fronds of the golden and
silver species of Gymnogramma are pleasingly effec-
tive when intermixed with other foliage, endeavour-
ing as much as possible to show the inverse surface
of each frond. Onychium japonicum is a very pretty
and extremely light fern for intermixing with
flowers. Of the Pteris, the well-known Ribbon Fern
in its choicer crested forms (P. serrudata, var. cristata)
P. cretica, and P. wnbrosa, will all be found of useful
service.

Among the climbing or scandent ferns there are
two, at the least, which are extremely useful for cir-
cling around the branches of épergnes and the stems
of glass vases. These are Lygodium scandens and L.
palmatum, to be found in some catalogues under the
generic synonym of Stenochlena. L. scandens is one
of the prettiest ferns grown for decoration in many
ways; each individual frond should be trained up a
string by itself, and when required to be cut, it can
be detached at the requisite length with ease.
Another class of ferns, not often seen used ina cut
state, are the Goniophiebinms and Nephrolepis. Of the
former genus, G. subauriculatum is one of the most
graceful objects imaginable, when taken for an ex-
terior fringing to a tall vase in such a manner as to
allow the points of the fronds to hang down nearly
to the base. The Nephrolepis can be used in the
same way, but are not quite so light and elegant as
the Goniophiebium just named. .V. davalloides, when
it assumes its true character, is one of the best;
N. tuberosa and N. cxaltata are also two serviceable
kinds, both of good lasting properties. Of the
hardy exotic and British ferns there are numerous
species that supply us with useful fronds, chiefly for
extra-sized arrangements. Of the former, d. peda-
tum would be one of the best were it more cultivated.

- Cyrtomium falcatum, with its distinct fronds, is

another ; whilst of the several forms of Lastrcas,
L. Sieboldii is one of the prettiest. The British
species of this last genus, with the Polypodiums, the
Polystichums, and the large family of Athyriums, ov
Lady Ferns, give a wide field of choice, while the
Scolopendriums, or Hart’s Tongue Ferns, are valuable
in large decorations. ;
From the Selaginellas, or Club Mosses, we receive
considerable help. One kiud of these has been pre-

132

viously mentioned (S. dentiewcata). There are others,
however, that are well worthy of a place in almost
all kinds of arrangements. The Blue Selaginella
(S. eesia) is of much value; its extended form of
growth causes it to be often sought after by decora-
tors as a pendant around small glass vases. S. wn-
brosa, S. canescens, S. inequalifolia, S. Martensii, and
its variegated form, 8. stolonifera and S. Wildenovii,
are all choice additions to almost any decorations, pos-
sessing novelty and distinct foliation. These latter
kinds are not so frequently made use of as they
might be, although they thrive under ordinary stove
treatment, and could be had without much trouble in
most cases.

Wild Plants and Grasses.—Amongst British
wild plants there are several genera that yield us
an infinite source of pleasure in a decorative sense,
either from their flowers or their fruits; and lovers
of the flora of our own country should obtain
such kinds as come under their notice. For use
during the winter months the Gladwyn: (Iris
fatidissima) is most distinct and effective, with
its spikes bearing their seed-pods, which, as they
unfold when fully matured, exhibit their brilliantly-
coloured berries to perfection. It grows freely
in the southern counties, in moist situations,
such as hedgerows and ditches. An excellent as-
sociate with the Gladwyn is the Cotton Grass,
with its feathery plumes of soft down that are
nearly white in colour; its botanical name is
Eriophorum angustifolium. The Cats’ Tails (Typha)
should_be obtained for tall vases; or they can
be used with the foregoing aquatics. The red ber-
ries of the Gladwyn, the white plumes of the grass,
and the brown tail-like spikes of the Typha would
harmonise well together. To these also the Aquatic
Grass, Glyceria aquatica, would be an appropriate
addition. Many more of the hardy British grasses
are of the greatest use in floral decorations; these
should be collected when in their best condition, and
laid by for future requirements.

Those ornamental flowering grasses of our gardens,
now much more sought after than formerly, are of
most essential and valuable service to the decorator.
The following are among the best, and ought to find
a place in gardens of very limited extent—viz.,
Agrostis nebulosa, and A. pulchella ; Briza gracilis, and
B. maxima, the Quaking Grasses; Lagurus ovatus, the
Hare’s Tail Grass, very distinct; Hordewm jubatum,
the Barley Grass; Eragrostis elegans, the Love Grass,
one of the lightest and best for autumn use; Bromus
patulus nanus, of recent introduction, and distinct in
habit. The foregoing kinds are all annuals, and
are readily raised from seed every spring. Be-
sides these there are Stipa pinnata, the well-known

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Feather Grass; this is easily increased by division,
or can be also raised from seed, but being a perennial
would not produce its flowering plumes the same
season as sown. Gymnothria latifolia is likewise
useful, its graceful foliage constituting its chief’
value. Erianthus Ravenne (Man’s Beard), and
Arundo conspicua (the Silvery Arundo), are both of
importance in larger-sized arrangements; each of
them somewhat resembles the Pampas Grass (Gyne-
rium argentewm). This latter well-known plant of
our gardens yields spikes rather too large for mixed
arrangements, unless of extra dimensions, but for
tall vases is always effective. The two foregoing
kinds should, therefore, be used in preference when
required to associate with Liliaceous plants and
flowers. In order to economise these flowering
grasses for future uses during the late autumn and
winter months, each kind in sufficient quantity
should be picked when in good condition; not left
till they begin to fade. After this has been done,
each sort should be placed in a glass jar or other
receptacle suitable for the purpose, but without
water. They are better not tied in bunches, merely
placed therein in a loose manner; this is preferable
also to the custom sometimes followed of suspending
them by their stems. In this latter manner the
natural style and elegance of growth is oftentimes
lost as the grasses become dried. An airy room is
the best place to keep them in, being careful to avoid
any accumulation of dust as much as possible.

Hardy Flowers and Plants.—In unison
with these grasses there are several flowers, which,
from their long durability and property of retain-
ing their colours fairly well, are known by the
term of Everlasting Flowers. These are of the
utmost service and value to all whose gardens do
not furnish them with sufficient natural flowers
throughout the entire year. A reserve of some of
the best of them may advantageously be kept by
those even who do, as a rule, rely on fresh flowers at
all seasons. In cases of emergency, either through
misadventure or from extra demand, they will be
found quite capable of filling the place of fresh pro-
ductions. From the hardy herbaceous plants we cap.
select several examples, which, if not so showy as
some, are yet attractive by their light appearance,
intermixing amongst larger flowers with good effect.
The Statices, or Sea Lavenders, are of this class,
and will be found very useful. Gypsophila pani-
culata is also most light and elegant. The Great.
Thrift, or Armeria cephalotes, with attention in dry-
ing, can be turned to good account. Gnaphalium.
margaritaceum and G. arenarium, the former having’
white and the latter yellow flowers, are each of ser-
vice. These are much sought after for “immor-

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

telles,” and usually imported from the Continent.
Of annuals easily raised from seed, we have an ex-
cellent choice. The best are Acroclinium roseum
and its double form, also the white variety
A, album. These have slender stems, and easily
arrange with the grasses afore-named. The purple
and white forms of Xeranthemum annuwn, both single
and double varieties, can be used in a similar way.
So also can the light and pretty Rhodanthes, both
pink and white varieties. The two forms of
R. maculata are probably of strongest constitution.
Their flowers should be taken for keeping purposes
just as the major part of the blossoms are about to
expand, The well-known Helichrysums are valuable
at all times whilst their flowers can be had, and being
of easy culture, come within the reach of the many.
For drying to use later on, the half-developed
buds, and those too which are about to expand,
will be found the best. These had better be sus-
pended in small bunches, or tied in rows on strings
to dry; another good plan is to thrust the flower-
stalks through the meshes of a piece of fish-netting,
with the flowers upwards and exposed to the sun.
These are among the best of the tender annuals, re-
quiring slight protection if sown early. The Green-
house Annual, Gomphrena, or Globe Amaranth, in
two or three different colours, is another very pretty
addition to the list, very distinct from any of the
foregoing.

From green-house plants, we have the Aphelevis
in various shades of purple and pink, and the
Phenocoma prolifera, very similar in form, but quite
distinct in colour, being of a crimson shade. These
are both choice additions to any collection of ever-
lastings ; but, like many others, must not be left on
the plants till they are faded. Those that are re-
quired for drying purposes should be taken off as
soon as the centre of each flower begins to darken in
colour, looking somewhat like mildew. From the
green-house also there are the pretty forms of Sta-
tice; the bright blue sheath-like envelopments of
the small white flowers retain their colour for many
months, without any trouble. Statice imbricata is
one of the best for these requirements, always per-
fecting an abundance of its large spikes. S. pro-
fusa, a smaller-growing form, is likewise most flori-
ferous, and of a paler shade of blue. Both species
are well worthy of cultivation for cut purposes
alone.

From our hardy shrubs we can secure some assis-
tance, also as a reserve when fresh flowers are not so
numerous. One species of Sumach (Rhus Cotinus)
furnishes us with quantities of feathery spikes that
can be turned to a good account in cases of
emergency. The long shoots of the common Barberry
(Berberis vulgaris), when loaded with their pretty

183

racemes of brilliant-coloured fruit, are a great aid.
Branches of the Strawberry Tree (Arbutus Unedo),
when well cropped with their gaily-coloured bunches
of berries, make an effective arrangement by re-
ducing their surrounding foliage in a liberal manner.
The cut-leaved Brambles are another instance in
which both the foliage and fruit can be effectively
displayed. The handsome bunches of the latter,
when fully ripe, are no mean decoration with their
own foliage and some few other gaily-coloured,
autumn-tinted leaves as a contrast thereto. Among
hardy annuals there are some good ones that one
scarcely ever sees made use of to any extent.
Gypsophila elegans, and its rose-coloured form, are two
of the lightest-locking flowers imaginable ; insigni-
ficant, some may say, who know not their value as a
finish to floral decorations. Let such, however, try
the use of them «u few times, after which we think
they will be more favourably impressed with their
utility. Cacalia coccinea (the Tassel Flower) is very
striking, and at the same time of much use. Cam-
panula Lorei, and its white variety, are two annua's
reudily raised from seed, and very pretty for inter-
mixing with larger flowers.

From the numerous classes of biennials, perennials,
and herbaceous plants, there are many kinds that
should be more grown than is often the case, to sup-
ply the decorator with a greater variety. It may be
well to enumerate a few that may advantageously be
added to any collection which does not already include
them. The newer kinds of Columbine are an instance,
of which Aguilegia californica hybrida, A. cerulea
hybrida, and A. chrysantha are three of the best.
Chelone barbata coccinea, a near ally of the showy
Pentstemons, is excellent for the cornucopias of glass
stands or épergnes, and with it may be used Gaura
Lindheimeri, whose spikes, with its pink and white
flowers, are always pleasing. Humea elegans fur-
nishes us with another light and graceful subject for
using ina similar way. Salvia patens, with its rich
blue blossoms, can always find admirers; and Spiraea
Aruneus (Goat’s Beard), if only moderately used (one
spike alone being enough), is always telling. During
the autumn months the Starworts in great variety
will afford a quantity of material for cut supplies.
Aster Amellus is one of the best of these pretty Daisy-
like flowers. The Japan Wind-flower (Anemone
japonica), and its white variety, are both simply in-
valuable during the same season of the year. The
latter kind is one of the prettiest white flowers we
have. Bocconia cordata, with its immense panicles
of flowers, if not strikingly effective, yet supplies a
good amount of material for large stands and vases.
The spikes of the Ophiopogons (Snakes’ Beards) are
very pretty when interspersed among flowers witn
shorter stems. ‘The dwarf varieties of Veronicas

134 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

(Speedwells) of the herbaceous section are also of
good effect when used in the same way.

Numerous other examples might be given of
flowers that are of most essential service in floral
arrangements, but any close observer will readily
discern any novelty which presents itself to his no-
tice, and place the same under requisition to supply
a change from the ordinary routine of decorations.
Experiments should be made both in the material
employed and at the same time in the methods of ar-
rangement. Frequent repetition of the same design,
with more or less the same kinds of flowers, should
be studiously avoided ; otherwise the best of flowers,
with tasteful grouping even, will grow wearisome
to the eye, and thereby their beauties will be passed
over unnoticed,

MANAGEMENT AND PRESERVATION OF MATERIAL.

The Foundation.—Water may fairly be con-
sidered as the best of all aids that can be brought
into requisition for the sustenance of cut flowers,
and, where any choice of the same can be exercised,
we would at all times prefer rain-water in preference
to that which has been drawn, either through great
lengths of pipes or from deep wells. For some kinds
of arrangements sand of fine quality will be found
of great service ; when this is used a layer of green
moss is an essential help in hiding the sand from
view. Failing the moss, a beautiful carpeting can
be had by using some tufts of Selaginella denticulata,
though this method would by some be considered
extravagant. Little sprigs of Box-leaved Myrtle
(Myrtus buxifolia) would be an excellent substitute,
for those who can succeed in cultivating it in the
open air of the more southern counties of England.
The common Box of gardens (Bueus) is perhaps the
most readily obtained when moss cannot be had;
small shoots of this shrub would last out several
arrangements. Use nioss, however, when it can be
had, as it is of valuable service in conserving
moisture for the better keeping of the flowers. The
great advantage in using sand and moss in combina-
tion, is in the assistance thereby gained in retaining
the tlowers in their desired position when using
shallow vases or glass dishes. Sufficient water should
be added thereto in order to saturate the sand, with-
out destroying its consistency in the retention of the
flowers in the position in which they have been
placed.

Stems.—It is a great assistance to those who
arrange decorations to have all the flowers cut with
as much available length of foot-stalks and stems as
possible. The flowers can then be used and dis-
played with far greater ease than is the case when
very short stems have to be dealt with ; the character

and habit: of growth will likewise aid in the general
effect. It is a mistake very frequently made—
sometimes, no doubt, for fear of injuring the plant
or shrub, as the case may be, but more often, we
think, through thoughtlessness—that the flowers are
cut with needlessly short stems. All who cut their
own flowers will easily be able to secure their de-
sired ends in this respect. In the case of some
pot-plants of slow growth, due caution must neces-
sarily be exercised. Small bushes, for instance, of
Camellias must be leniently dealt with; but from large
plants of the same genus that are in robust health a
fair amount of stem may be secured, with even ad-
vantage inthe case of prominent shoots, inducing
back breaks to be made from buds that would in
some instances have remained dormant. The slow-
growing Ericas from the Cape of Good Hope, and
some few genera of New Holland plants, will need
to be carefully treated. The greater portion of the
Epacris from the latter country furnish us, on the

‘other hand, with a most abundant supply of flower-

spikes of excellent length; these we have found to
be of most valuable service from October to March.
The flowers of Cyclamen persicum should never be
cut, but be separated from the corm by a gentle
twist with the thumb and finger, giving also a slight
gain in the length of the foot-stalk, Lachenalia
tricolor and the other species should be operated on
in the same manner as the Cyclamens.

All flowers, too, should be chosen for such designs
as will best display them to advantage. The error
is oftentimes made cf using flowers in an unnatural
manner: in the case of the Fuchsia, for instance, I
have seen it worked into an arrangement in which
its pendent flowers were made to look upwards, and
time had been wasted in either wiring the blossoms
or using other means to this end. The red and
white forms of Lapageria are another example, which
by careful wiring I saw made to stand erect, instead
of being used in a natural way, as they ought to be.
All such errors should be avoided.

Use of Gum.—Some kinds of flowers, from
their liability to soon dropping, either from off their
foot-stalk, as in the case of the single Chinese
Primroses (Primula sinensis), or from shedding their
petals, as in the case of the Pelargoniums of the
single types, have ceased to be used by some through
this failing. This drawback to the use of these and
similar subjects can easily be overcome by the appli-
cation of a little liquid gum. This, if done with
care, will fix the flowers and petals for a more
lengthened period. We make it a constant practice
to gum our Camellias before using them in specimen
glasses. In doing this we choose a small camel’s-
hair brush, and with it apply a fair amount of the

GLASS STRUCTURES AND APPLIANCES. 135

liquid around the base of the blossom where it is
united to the stem, and also, thrust a little between
the back petals where it will not be visible, This
willbe the means of holding the flowers together
much longer, and is by far a better method than
wiring the blooms in order to attain the desired
end when they are intended for glass vases. For
bouquets and other similar purposes the wiring pro-
cess is much the best. The kind of gum known as
“ Florists’ Gum” is better than a solution of pure
gum-arabic, by reason of its drying the more readily
after application. When flowers that have been
wired are placed in glass vases with water, a deposit
of rust will soon be observed around the sides. This,
and any other deposit that adheres to the vases and
thereby detracts from their transparency, can be
easily removed with a weak solution of hydro-
chloric acid. This preparation, however, being a
corrosive poison, requires great care in application,
and caution should be exercised accordingly. It is
much to be preferred to the use of any material
that would scratch and disfigure the glass.

Preservation. — Many flowers can be pre-
served for several days if a cool and damp
cellar or other similar place is at command, where
they can be kept nearly or quite in the dark.
The Passion Flowers, for instance, that we very
rarely see open for more than one day—in fact, this
is about the limit of their existence—may be pre-
served in good condition for three or four, and
even five days, if cut early in the morning, after
fully expanding, and then placed in the dark till re-
quired. Some of the Passifloras flower, as it were,
by fits and starts, and perhaps just when a few
flowers are wanted, they are a few days past. By
adopting the means just detailed, an extension can
be made, very possibly, to meet the requirements.
Blossoms of the Passifloras will also remain open
during the evening if cut early in the day, whereas
on the plant the majority will close in the afternoon.
Other “flowers of a day’ can be kept ina similar
manner, such as the Ipomezeas, for example. Water
Lilies, when required in a cut state, can be made to
remain open all night with ease by passing the
thumb and finger up each petal and reflexing it.
It is disappointing, when using these and kindred
flowers, to have them close just when they are most
needed to display their beauties; any means, there-
fore, that can be adopted to secure the desired end
may fairly be practised, as long as the natural beauty
of the flower is not destroyed.

During the summer months all flowers will be
found to keep the better if cut early in the day or
late in the evening, when their vitality is not being
weakened by rapid evaporation. In warm weather

we prefer to complete all arrangements early in the
morning, and place them away (if not immediately
required) in a cool and shaded place that is free
from draught. The retention of the dew on the
flowers will have a beautiful effect in the evening ;
this cannot, however, be managed unless a cold,
moist cellar is available till the needed time for
bringing them forth.

GLASS STRUCTURES AND
APPLIANCKHS.

GARDEN FRAMES.

HE one-light frame (Fig. 11) marks a new de-
parture in horticulture. In this simple and
useful contrivance glass appliances may be said to
end and glass houses to begin. The frame is a half-
way house, as it were, between the two. Frames
are as elastic as portable. They may be had to
cover a yard, or overspread an acre, at will. While
mostly placed on the level ground, they may also be
raised up to do excellent fostering and conservative
service against walls, and are ever at hand, or ought
to be, to meet the wants or wishes of: the cultivator.
For convenience frames are concentrated into one
place technically known as the frame-ground or
Melon-ground (from the old but still good practice of
growing Melons in frames). Still, the fact of being
so portable, and, on the whole, so sightly,.as to be
placed over seeds or plants anywhere, is one of their
greatest merits, and causes them to be used to great
convenience and advantage in the most out-of-the-
way places. Every garden should have one or many
garden frames. They may be made of any size,.so
long as they are neither too large nor too heavy to
be easily portable. They are mostly made of one
and a quarter, one and a half, or two-inch deal,
dovetailed or morticed together at the corners.
This, however, adds greatly to the cost of making,
and is now often superseded with strong ties at
each corner, by which the sides and ends are firmly
nailed together. Frames thus made are equally
strong and durable as those morticed in the usual
way. Bolts or clasps are also used for this purpose,

for the same reason.

The best deal is generally chosen for frames, for
the less sap-wood in them the longer they will last.
Some have tried hard wood, such as oak or ash,
but it is too heavy and not so durable as deal.
Poplar is sufficiently light, and that or sycamore and
lime last fairly well if kept wet, as is mostly the
case with what are called dung-frames, that is, those
warmed or protected with manure either under or
around them, or both. Garden frames are generally
painted or smeared over with tar or some of the

336 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

many preparations of coal-tar varnish. This adds
greatly to their durability if the frames are what
are called cool or cold ones. But in cases where
hot dung is used under or around the frames, it
matters little whether they are painted or not, as
the gases in the manure speedily remove the paint
or destroy its powers of protection. If good well-

seasoned deal is used, it is astonishing how long
garden frames will last.

The length of garden frames is generally mea-
Hence we have

sured by the number of lights.
the phrase, one, two,.
three, and four-light
frames. They are
seldom made longer
than four lights, and
three are the most
popular for cultural
purposes, one or
two-light frames be-
ing more generally
used for the raising
of seeds and foster-
ing of cuttings or of
seedling plants.

The depth and |

Fig. 12.—Span-roofed Frame.

the width of frames are, to some extent, partially
influenced by their length; but this is not neces-
sarily the case, and occasionally—especially in the
gardens of amateurs—one-light frames may be
met with ‘of the most enormous and unwieldy di-
mensions.

The width of frames means the length of sash,
which is mostly from one to two or even three feet
more than its width. The average width of sashes
ranges from three feet to four feet, three and a
half feet being a common width, and the length of
the frame is the breadth of one or more sashes.
Thus, the length of a one light-framo will be mostly
three. feet, three and a half, or four feet, and the
width four, four and a half, five, or six feet.
Two-light frames will thus be seven or eight feet
long and six or seven feet wide, and so on; three-

lights, twelve feet long and six feet wide, and so
of others. :

But, of course, these sizes may be changed.
Perhaps the most common one-light frames are four
feet wide and three long. A handy size for two-
lights is seven or eight feet long and six or seven
wide. Lights are, however, occasionally made larger.
—four and a half or five feet wide and six, seven,
or even eight feet long. But in practice it is found
that these are too heavy for prompt and convenient
use. The ponderous weight gives rise to serious
breakages, and there
is no advantage, but
the reverse, in hav-
ing portable lights
too heavy. Hence
the popularity of six
by four feet port-
able frame sashes.
Three-light frames
are also generally
preferred to four,
five, or six-light,
for similar reasons.
Neither is there any
benefit in having -

ih

Fig. 13.—Hip-roofed Frame.

larger frames, for assuming that frames and lights
are made of uniform sizes, which they should be, no-
thing can well be easier than to extend the frames to
any desired extent by simply placing several side by
side. Or, if that is thought better, the sides may be
taken out where they meet in those cases where
these are bolted together, and thus two or more
frames be converted into one. Not a few cultural
advantages may, however, be derived from using
frames with a limited number of lights. It gives
the culturist more direct and special control over
each crop, enabling him to foster one and retard
another at will, while the limited space occupied by
the two ends, under four inches at the most, is so
small as to be immaterial.

Garden frames having more than one light are
strengthened with rafters running from back to

GLASS STRUCTURES AND APPLIANCES.

front, the upper surface being let firmly into the
frame, level with its upper surface, while an inch or
so of the central portion stands up as high as the
lights, to keep them in position when sliding up
or down. Ina two-light frame one rafter suffices, a
three-light needs two, and so on, an additional rafter
being needed for every added light. These rafters
are generally made of from two to four-inch stuff,
according to the width of the frame.

The lights, whether one or many, are made of
two-inch stuff, the styles varying in width from two
inches to four, and the rails or ends from three

137

stances, and hence the reason of using small squares
and a considerable number of sash-bars, which not
only add to the strength of the frames, but greatly
protect the glass against breakages. Notwithstand-
ing all the improvements in glazing, and the rapid
development of dry glazing, the old system of bed-
ding in putty—and filling each side of the rebated
rafter with the same so as to form an angle—is that
most generally used for garden frames. The glass
most commonly employed is about sixteen ounces to
the foot. ‘Twenty-one ounce is sometimes used, but
on the whole the sixteen-ounce is better, being so

Sal
NNT

in

aM
A
AI i

{
|

i i

i

Fig. 14.—Loose Frames usea to Protect Trees.

to six inches. The sash-bars are formed of inch,
inch-and-quarter, inch-and-half, or two-inch deal,
and are rebated to receive the glass. These used to
be morticed in at each end, but now mere rebated
splices of wood are frequently nailed on to the rails
at each end, and these serve most of the purposes of
the former mode of fitting sash-bars. The number
of sash-bars in frame-lights is now much less than
formerly, for broader as well as longer squares are
used, ight rows of squares, five inches by eight,
used to be the orthodox number in three-feet lights.
Now half that number of squares, ten inches by six-
teen or eighteen inches, are generally used. For
common garden frames it is hardly advisable to
enlarge the squares beyond these sizes. The ex-
cessive portability—I had almost written mobility
—of the lights slipping up or down, maybe off and
on, several times a day, subjects the glass to exces-
sive risks of breakage. These risks are increased
by covering with mats and more dangerous sub-

much lighter, and with careful glazing and handling
afterwards it is not much more liable to breakage.

The risk of breakage is greatly reduced since the
number of laps has been lessened and their sizes
narrowed to an eighth of an inch orso. The wide
laps were not only the cause of the semi-obscurity
of the old frame-lights, but a fruitful source of the
breakage of the glass.

The pitch or angle of garden frames is generally
secured by forming the baek from a foot to eighteen
inches deeper than the front. Hence depths at back
of from eighteen inches to two feet, and in front of
from nine to fifteen inches. Much shallower frames
are also used for many purposes, such as the winter-
ing of Cauliflowers, Lettuces, Endive, &. These
are frequently not more than from a foot to fifteen
inches at back, and from six to nine inches in front.
Such disparities of depth suffice to carry off the
water freely and to protect the frames against drip.
Serious inconveniences, however, very often arise in

138

practice from the disparity of depth in garden
frames. The plants in front have barely time to
start till they crush their heads against the glass,
while those at the back not seldom become drawn
because of their distance from the same. To
remedy such evils and provide a uniform height over
the entire area of the frames, the latter may be made
of the same height at front and back, and the slope
or pitch secured by placing on a bed or base with
the desired fall.

Each sash is furnished with a strong iron handle,
firmly bolted or secured on to the centre of the top
rail, asin Fig. 11. This is a most important adjunct
to a garden sash-frame, which is almost in perpetual
motion in most gardens throughout the growing
season. :

‘Other forms of garden frames, such as hip and
span-roofed ones (Figs. 12 and 13), have recently
been introduced and strongly recommended at dif-
ferent:times, and many years ago a dome-shaped
garden frame was invented and used in France ;
but none of these have proved formidable rivals
to the old-fashioned lean-to-roofed garden frame,
which still holds its ground as the most efficient
portable glass contrivance for the protection and cul-
tivation of many garden plants. Not a few, how-
ever, of the modern hip and span-roofed frames are
most convenient and useful. The lights are hung
on a central rod passed through the apex, or on
hooks fastened there, and the front lights can thus be
thrown readily over on to the back ones in the case
of span-roofed frames; or the back ones raised for
ventilation in the case of those of hip-span form
(Fig. 13). Garden frames of those forms also afford
more room for the storage of taller plants than those
of the ordinary form’ but such advantages hardly
compensate for the additional cost of production and
the greater difficulties of working and covering the
frames ir. cold weather.

Different Sorts of Garden Frames.—These
have generally been divided into three classes—those
of cold, temperate, and hot-bed or tropical frames ;
but the distinctions are neither of structure nor of
size, but simply of temperature and uses. Cold
frames are those from which the frost is only ex-
cluded. They are largely occupied with such
florists’ flowers as Picotees, Auriculas, &c. Tem-
perate frames are largely furnished with bed-
ding and the hardier green-house plants, and should
be provided with a temperature of from 40° to 45°
in all weathers. Tropical or hot-bed frames com-
mand a tropical temperature, and are largely used
for the culture of Cucumbers and Melons, and the

growth of stove and other tender plants ina young
state.

.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

The Frame or Melon Ground. —As this is
daily losing much of its old significance, a few sen-
tences may prove useful to describe its character and
usefulness. This was mostly a warm sheltered spot,
surrounded by high walls or hedges, with a warm
outlook to the south, south-east, south-west, or west ;
and a good cart-road for ready access and egress of
manures and soils. With a plentiful supply of these,
and frames or pits in serried ranks or regular rows,
the Melon-ground became and continued a veritable
hot-bed of rapid production. It was at once the most.
interesting, profitable, and productive spot in the
whole garden. Sheltered from all the coldest and
most generally prevailing winds, its normal tempe-
rature was mostly from 5° to 10° above the average,

while the heat, husbanded by glass and augmented

at will by layers of manure, leaves, and other fer-
menting materials, furnished fostering and stimula-
ting forces of the highest value, and sufficiently
potent to meet the wants of cultivators.

Though modern improvements in the construction
and warming of glass structures have relegated the
Melon and frame ground to a place of secondary
importance, yet no garden, large or small, is fully
furnished with the most useful horticultural ap-
pliances that has not a frame-ground. By placing
frames tolerably close together, space, as well as
warmth, is husbanded and economised, though no
two frames must be placed so closely as for the one
in front to overshadow the one behind. To prevent
this a distance of the width of the frame, with #
few feet to spare, will usually suffice. For exam-
ple, between frames six feet wide, spaces from six to
ten feet should intervene.

Other Uses for Garden Frames.—Among
these the protection of fruit-trees or tender shrubs on.
walls, Tea Roses, or other flowers or plants in the
open, are the most obvious and useful. Our first
experience of the extreme usefulness of the acci-
dental application of portable lights was in this
wise :—A narrow lean-to Peach-house was formed of
old frame-lights. These were so nicely fitted together
against a wall and narrow trellis, and the enclosed
area so well heated, that the Peaches’ were ripened
and all gathered carly in June. The lights were
immediately removed and fitted up in a rough way
against Peach-trees in the open. These were ripened
in splendid condition in a cold summer and dis-.
trict at the latter end of September and early in
October.

Since then every possible spare frame or other
lights have been utilised in the spring and in
autumn, They are just as useful at the latter
season as at the former, in imparting the highest
flavour to stone-fruits and choice Pears in the open

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.

air, and also in imparting that nut-brown maturity
to the wood, the best possible preparation to meet the
colds of winter and spring, and the surest promise of
a fine crop of fruit the succeeding season.

Fig. 14 gives a fair illustration of how spare lights
can be placed against Peach or other walls, and from
these simple beginnings have sprung forth all the
full crop of glass copings and screens for walls, or
coverings for fruit-trees and Roses, and the angular or
semi-round glass protectors for placing over cordons
in the open. An enlargement of the original and
ancient triangular Pea-guard has proved one of the
best protectors for ground cordons, whilst for those
on walls nothing has proved more useful than a few
frame-lights posted up against them. For the pro-
tection of groups or masses of choice semi-hardy
Alpine and other plants there is nothing to excel
small frames, with glass lights, or the other glass
contrivances described in these pages.

Other Frames besides those of Glass.—
For the purposes of mere protection, and the blanch-
ing of such products as Sea-kale and Endive, and the
forcing of Asparagus, frames covered with thin
wood, felt, paper (common brown and Willesden),
canvas, calico, zinc, and other substances, have been
used. The bases of such frames are mostly far
rougher and simpler than those made for glass.
Two styles or rails merely nailed together, with a
centre style to keep the material from bulging in
the middle, is generally sufficient. On such frames
the material used must be tightly stretched and
nailed. If this is done in a dry state the frames
become, and long continue, tight as drums in actual
use. This extreme tension renders most of the
textile or other materials used almost water-tight,
while if stout canvas or calico is dressed with linseed
oil and beeswax it becomes virtually impervious,
and sufficiently transparent to preserve many plants
throughout the winter. Turf frames thatched
with reed and straw are also exceeding useful in
severe weather; these are more useful for mere
protection than actual cultivation, and are better
adapted for rendering glass frames frost-proof than
as substitutes for them. Even Russian mats nailed
on to wooden frames become far more useful than
applied in the usual way, and will carry many semi-
tender plants through the winter that would utterly
perish without them. When and where opaque
frames are used, every opportunity of genial weather
must be seized to expose the plants freely to the
light. Thus fortified at intervals, and kept as cool
and dormant as possible during severe weather—
conditions almost insured through the opacity of
the covering—the plants suffer little from spells of
darkness of a week’s duration. But such structures

139
are at best but the makeshifts of frame-culture, and

it only reaches perfection under glass lights, and
wooden sides and tops and bottoms.

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.

Barrenwort (Epimedium)—One of the best-
known representatives of this is EF. alpinum, the
Alpine Barrenwort, a beautiful, hardy plant, a native
of South and Eastern Europe, but naturalised in
woods and coppices in the North of England, &c. The
term Barrenwort is employed, according to Gerarde,
“ because it isan enemy to conception, and not because
it is described by Dioscorides as being barren both of
flowers and leaves.” Nevertheless, this belief in its
sterilising powers may be due to the remark of
Dioscorides, who must have meant some other plant,
for this seeds very freely in Styria and other parts of
Austria. A. alpinum is a dwarf evergreen herb, with
handsome foliage, and slender, creeping root-stock
which scarcely penetrates the ground; the flowers
are produced in spring, colour purplish, yellow on
the inside. £. pinnatum is the large yellow Barren-
wort, probably the handsomest species and strongest-
grown of the genus. It flowers late in spring, or
early in summer, the blossoms large, and of a bright
golden-yellow colour. E. purpureum is so named on
account of its flowers, which are purplish on the
outside, brownish-yellow within, and twice as large
as those of E. alpinum. This is a Japanese species.
E. violaceum is also from Japan; the flowers large,
numerous, and of a violet colour. There are a few
other species, but we have named those that are most.
distinct. They forma lovely genus of dwarf-grow-
ing plants, taking the form of neat clumps, about

- one foot in height, of long-stalked, leathery leaves,

and graceful panicles of lovely flowers. But if any
one would succeed with them, they must have special
treatment. They grow best in light, peaty soil, in a
partially-shaded situation, and they are also well
adapted for pot-culture. On the shady parts of rock-
work they will grow and flower freely, provided they
be planted in proper soil. On the shady, warm slopes
of the unrivalled spring garden at Belvoir Castle,
Grantham, these Epimediums are used with great
effect, and in the months of April and May they are
objects of rare beauty.

Gentian (Gentiana or Gentianella)—The name of
Gentiana, and its English form Gentian, was bestowed
by Dioscorides on some species of medicinal plants.
the virtues of which were believed to have been
discovered by Gentius, King of Illyria. Linnzus
adopted it as a generic name, but it is doubtful if

140 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

his genus includes the Gentiana of Dioscorides and
Pliny. Two of the species appear to be natives of the
British Isles, viz., G. Pneumonathe and G. verna. The
former is known as the Heath Gentian, and Marsh
Gentian, and it has local names, such as the Autumn
Bellflower, and Harvest Bells, alluding to its time of
blooming, and the form of the corolla; Marsh Gen-
tian, from its growing in boggy places. It isa British
perennial, scarcely less beautiful than any Alpine
Gentian, and bears beautiful blue tubular flowers an
inch and a half long. G.verna is the Vernal Gen-
tian; it grows in Teesdale, and in a few places on
the western shores of Ireland. The blue of this
flower is of
the most
vivid and
brilliant de-
scription ; it
is, in fact, the
dluest of the
blue—one of
the most
charming of
all Alpine
plants, and
should be in
every garden
of hardy
flowers. It
may be
grown well
in sandy
loam mixed
with broken
limestone or
gravel, and,
indeed, it is not very particular as to soil, pro-
vided that it be mixed with sharp sand and grit,
kept moist, and well drained. A very impor-
tant point in the culture of this plant is to
leave it for several years undisturbed. G. acaulis is
best known as the Gentianella; it is a well-known
old inhabitant of our gardens, growing close to the
ground, putting forth dense leathery leaves, and
bearing on stems, two inches in length, large
solitary flowers, of the deepest and most lustrous
blue. In some places, such as the moist parts of
Yorkshire and Lancashire, where the plant does
well, edgings are made of it, and when dense in
foliage and flowers they are.of the most exquisite
beauty. It does well in a moist, deep loam; it is
easily grown, and it should not be frequently
disturbed. G, Andrewsi (Andrews’ or the Closed
Gentian) grows about two feet in height, and pro-
duces numerous terminal flowers in axillary clusters.
The flowers never expand, remaining as it were in

GENTIANA VERNA,

the bud, and are about one and a half inches in
length, of a rich purplish-blue, striped inside with
white. G. asclepiadea is a showy border plant, having
erect, slender stems, two feet in height, producing an
abundance of purplish-blue flowers in long terminal
clusters. This is a true, herbaceous plant, dying
down every year, and thus keeping perfectly safe’
during the winter. Lastly we name G. septemfda,
the Crested Gentian, a lovely plant, bearing, on
stems six to twelve inches high, flowers in clusters,
cylindrical, widening towards the mouth, of a beau-
tiful blue and white inside, greenish-brown outside,
having between each of the larger segments of the
flowers one
smaller and
finely cut.
This is a na-
tive of the
Caucasus,
and one of
the most de-
sirable spe-
cies for culti-
vation on the
rockwork,
thriving best
in moist
sandy peat.
andincreased
by division.
We may say
of all the
Gentians
‘wey that they do
[igre best in a
moist sandy
loam or peat; that they suffer from drought, and
should have some amount of shade; and they are all
the more deserving of culture because they supply
such rich hues of blue, purple, and violet.

Geranium or Cranesbill.—Under this head
we do not intend to treat of the Pelargoniums; for
though the Pelargonium was at one time included in
the genus, which accounts for the existence of the
common name Geranium as applied to them, it is no
longer so included, though the Pelargoniums will be
certainly known as Geraniums for many years to
come. According to one authority, Geranium is
derived from Geramos, the Greek for a crane, the
seed-capsules being beaked so as to resemble the
head and beak of that bird. We have British and
imported species. Some of the latter are very
handsome, forming dense, leafy, compact bushes of
foliage during summer, and flowering freely and
continuously. G. pratense, the Meadow Geranium, is

CUMMON GARDEN FLOWERS. 14k

a rather common native plant, but it has two double
varieties, the blue and the white, and both are very
handsome, and well deserving a place in the garden.
They do well in good garden soil, and can be in-
creased by division of the roots. Then there is

Re = ~~

GEUM COCCINEUM.

G. sanguineum, the Bloody Cranesbill, the name refer-
ring to the blood-coloured or crimson flowers, and it
would be appropriate also to the purplish-red colour
which the whole plant often assumes after flowering.
This is a native species, forming very neat and

142

somewhat spreading close tufts, from one to two feet
high. The flowers are very showy, and it well
deserves a place in the garden. It grows on any
soil, and is readily propagated by division or seeds.
G. argenteum isthe Silvery Cranesbill, a lovely
Alpine form, with leaves of a silvery-white, and
large pale rose-coloured flowers. It comes from
the Alps, or Dauphiny, and the Pyrenees, is perfectly
hardy, flowers in early summer, and is a gem for
association with the choicest plants on rockwork.
It should have a firm, sandy, well-drained soil. It
is freely increased by seeds. G. armenium is a neat
symmetrical plant, growing about two feet in height,
bearing large, deep purplish-crimson flowers, and
does well in the open border. G. cinereum is the
Grey Cranesbill, a beautiful dwarf plant, forming
tufts of silvery foliage six inches in height, adorned
with numerous white flowers veined with purple.
It is a plant that is particularly at home on rock-
works, and it seeds abundantly, and can be easily
raised in this way. G. Endressi is one of the brightest
and most effective of the family. The flowers are
exceedingly numerous, and of a bright rose-colour.
This is one of the best of hardy perennials, and it
grows and flowers freely in any good ordinary
border soil. G. ibericwm is, perhaps, the best of the
strong-growing varieties, forming handsome sym-
metrical bushes two feet in height, the flowers as
large as a florin, and of a rich purplish-blue; this is
extra tine. One of the best-known is G. Robertianuwn,
the Herb Robert. We are informed that Robertianum
refers to St. Robert, a Benedictine monk, Abbot of
Molesme, who died a.p. 1110. His anniversary is
on the 29th of April, and, as this plant is then
beginning to flower, our Roman Catholic forefathers
dedicated it to him. This similarly accounts for its
common name, Herb Robert. It is also called by
some the Stinking Cranesbill, on account of its
strong disagreeable smell, which is said to be offen-
sive to bed-bugs. This is so common, being abun-
dant on waste ground, on banks, walls, and under
hedges, and in woods in all parts of the country,
that it is not much grown in gardens. Some fine
varieties have been raised from it. They are
annuals, and increased by seeds.

Geum.-—The origin of this word is geyo, “to
stimulate”; the roots of some of them and of allied
species have the same properties as Peruvian Bark.
Geum is also known as Avens; but the true form of
Avens is said to be G. wrbanwm, a wild plant, which
grows abundantly in woods and hedges in Britain.
It is also known as the Herb Bennet. Avens is a
word of obscure origin, quite unintelligible, and spelt
im several different ways. As this plant was sup-
posed to ward off the devil and evil spirits, venomous

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

serpents and wild beasts, it is possible that the Gireek
rendering in the sense of “ antidote” may be the origi-
nal and proper form of the word: Herb Bennet (Herba
benedicta, “ blessed herb”), the Avens, so called, Pla-
tearius tells us, because ‘‘ when the root isin the house
the devil can do nothing, and flies from it; wherefore
it is blessed above all other herbs.”” He adds that,
if a man carries the root about him, no venomous
beast can harm him ; further, that when it is grow-
ing in a garden no venomous beast will approach
within scent of it. The Scarlet Geum of our gardens
is G. chilense, the Chili Avens, introduced about 1826,
a well-known and showy hardy herbaceous perennial,
growing freely, and flowering profusely in any good
garden soil. A variety named coccinewm is from
seed, and of a rich blood-colour; this is also known
as G. atrosanguineum, the dark blood-coloured Avens.
The double form of this, G. coccineum plenum, is a
grand variety of the old-fashioned Scarlet Geum,
having larger heads, and more numerous flowers of
a bright, dazzling scarlet; the flowers are double,
lasting a considerable time, and are invaluable for
cutting. It can be highly recommended as a first-
class perennial, and no choice collection is complete
without it. G. montanum is the Mountain Avens,
from the Alps and Pyrenees. It is a charming rock
or border plant, forming large, compact tufts of foliage
and producing an abundance of showy golden-yellow
flowers, on stems nine to twelve inches high, and sc
makes a very valuable perennial. Stony ground and
banks suit it best. G. coccinewm and its double
variety can both be raised from seeds, which should
be sown in May to flower the following summer.

Gypsophila.—This represents a genus of plants,
containing both annual and perennial species, for
which we have no common name. The name is de-
rived from gypsos, “chalk ;”? and phileo, “to love,” in
reference to the soil most suitable to them. There are
many hardy perennial species, but few of which are
grown. G. Struthium,a Spanish species, is said to
possess certain saponaceous properties, and is used by
the Spaniards for scouring instead of soap.

The Gypsophilas most deserving of cultivation
among the hardy perennials are: G. repens, or pro-
strata, a valuable though not a brilliant plant, re-
markable for its dwarf spreading habit, its multitude
of pink or white flowers, veined with rose, on thread-
like stems, and its adaptability for rockwork or stony
ground. It is a native of the Pyrenees and Alps,
growing six or eight inches high, and flowering in
summer. G. cerastioides is a new species, growing
about six inches in height, producing innumerable
pure white flowers, much larger than any other of
this genus; it is a first-class border and rock plani.
But the best-known and the most valuable is G. pant-

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.

euieta, w slender-growing plant. From a thick root-
stock, it sends up each year a set of shoots, with
smooth, narrow leaves, to a height of two feet; from
there a perfect cloud of small flowers, supported on
the slenderest of foot-stalks, forms a conical mass of
elegance, its beauty continuing through August and
September. It is very useful for mixing with cut
flowers; and if the tlowers are dried they come in
very useful for winter decoration. G. Stevensi some-
what resembles G. paniculata, butis of much smaller
dimensions; flowers white, somewhat larger than
those of G. paniculata, but not so numerous. The
latter comes from Siberia and Sicily, and does well
in any light, sandy soil. G. Sterensi comes from Ger-
many, and will tlourish in any ordinary garden soil.

Of the annual kinds, G. muralis, from France,
and G. elegans, from the Caucasus, are even more
beautiful and profuse of bloom, and will merit being
naturalised on old ruins and bare rocky places; par-
ticularly the former, which has rose-coloured flowers,
and grows about nine inches in height. G. elegans is
taller, reaching a height of eighteen inches, and, like
the preceding, bears rose-coloured flowers. Both
make charming rock plants.

Achillea (1ilyoil)—The common Yarrow of our
fields must be knowr to many. This is dchillea
Hillefolium ; the generic name is derived from
Achilles, a pupil of Chiron, who first used it in
medicine as a healer of wounds. Afillefolium means
“‘thousand-leaved,” and alludes to the numerous
segments of the leaves. Its popular names, Milfoil
and Thousand-leaved Grass, refer to the same; its
more homely name, Yarrow, is said to be a corrup-
tion of the Anglo-Saxon name of the plant, Geareiwe,
and is derived probably from gearo, ‘‘active,” on ac-
count of the plant’s speedy influence when used as a
medicine. One of the common names of the Yarrow
is Nosebleed, from its having been put into the nose,
as we learn from Gerarde, to cause bleeding and to
cure the meagrims, and also from its being used as a
means of testing a lover's fidelity. Forby, in his
“East Anglia” (p. 424), tells us that in that part of
England a girl will tickle the inside of the nostril
with a leaf of this plant, saying—

‘* Yarroway, Yarroway, bear a white blow ;

If my love love me, my nose will bleed now.”
Parkinson says that “it is called of some Nose-
bleede, from making the nose bleede if it be put
into it, but assuredly it will stay the bleeding of
it.” It is held, however, that this application of
the Yarrow, and all the superstitions connected

with it, have arisen, as in so many other in-.

stances, from the medieval herbalists having been
misled by a name, and taken one plant for an-
other. Yarrow was long considered as a noxious

143

weed, but is now reckoned as a grateful food fer
sheep when mixed with the common pasture grasses,
and is therefore generally sown along with such
other seeds as are reckoned best adapted for per-
manent sheep pasture, on such soils as it is found
naturally to thrive in; the quantity of seed should
never exceed 14]bs. to 2lbs. per acre. It is stated
that the Scotch Highlanders make an ointment of
the Yarrow, which dries and heals wounds.

There are a great many species and varieties of
Achillea, nearly if not quite all of which are hardy
herbaceous plants, thriving in good garden soil, and
propagated by root-divisions, by cuttings, and by
sowing their seeds. A few are very useful plants in
the hardy border, growing among Phloxes, Pent-
stemons, Evergreen Candytufts, &c.; such as
Achillea Clavenne, from the Alps of Switzerland,
the Silvery Yarrow, which produces compact tufts
of hoary foliage and numerous heads of white
flowers; it is very useful for edging purposes, and
makes a conspicuous rock or border plant. 4.
Ptarmica florepleno, a double-flowered form of the
Sneezeworts, so called from the powder made of it
causing to sneeze, is one of the most useful of border
perennials, producing numerous erect stems two ana
a half feet high, terminating with abundant pure
white flowers, exceedingly double; for cutting pur-
poses in the summer it is invaluable, and as a de-
corative garden plant can be highly recommended.

A, serrata is the Serrate-leaved Achillea, from the
European Alps; and of this there is a double form,
similar in appearance: to the foregoing, but the
flowers are not so double but purer in colour; the
leaves are also very deeply cut, and it blooms later
than the preceding. .4. tomentosa, the Woolly Yarrow,
is a European species, a neat creeping evergreen,
with numerous large heads of bright yellow flowers
on stems six inches long; it flowers early in spring,
and is very useful for cutting from. -4. wmbellata
is the Dwarf Silvery Yarrow, from the mountains
of Greece, a very neat and distinct white-foliaged
edging or rock plant; the flowers white, produced
in close compact heads. The last two can be used
for bedding purposes.

The Hare-bell (Campanula).— Campanula means
a small bell, and alludes to the form of the flowers.
The common Hare-bell of our fields is C. rotundifolia,
which can be found in most northern regions; its
name rotundifolia, round-leaved,” refers to the shape
of the leaves, which approach to circular, but the
notch at their base renders them what botanists
term kidney or heart-shaped. Of its popular names
Hare-bell is perhaps derived from the Saxon words
har and belle, literally “a grey bell;” but whether
this be so or not, or whether it is a corruption of hair,

144 ; CASSELL’S. POPULAR GARDENING.

ailuding to the delicacy and hair-like character of
the stalk on which it is so lightly pendulous, we will

There are a large number of Campanulas, and
they are divided into three sections—annuals, bien-

CAMPANULA PERSICIFOLIA FLOREPLENO,

not attempt to decide. The common Blue-bell, or
Wild Hyacinth (Scilla nutans), is regarded by some
as the Hare-bell. Some writers hold that Campanula
rotundifolia is the Blue-bell of Scotland, on whose
high lands and heaths it is » common ornament.

nials, and perennials; while there are a few green-
house varieties. It is only necessary to devote a
few lines to the annual forms; the best are C. attica,
C. Loreyi, and C. pentagonia ; these are all dwart-
growing varieties, and seed can be sown in the open

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.

ground in early spring. Venus’ Looking-glass, or
Ladies’ Looking-glass (Specularia speculum), formerly
called C. speculum, is so named from the resemblance
of its flowers, set upon their cylindrical ovary, to an
ancient mirror at the end of a handle. The name is
given by Spenser in his “Faerie Queene” to a magic
mirror, in which a lady might see her destined
husband.

Among the biennial varieties a foremost place must
be given to Campanula Medium, the Canterbury Bell,
so named by Gerarde from growing very plentifully
in the low woods about Canterbury—in allusion, pro-
bably, to the bells so-called that were used by pilgrims
on their road to and from the shrine of St. Thomas.
It would appear that this came originally from Ger-
many or Italy. Of Canterbury Bells there is now a
large group of very fine varieties, double and single,
varied in colour and singularly handsome. There isa
variety called calycanthema, so named because the calyx
has broadened out and become a broad saucer-shaped
secondary flower. There are the blue and white
varieties of this, and they deserve a place in every
garden. Canterbury Bells are increased by means
of seeds; these should be sown in boxes or in the
open border in May, and planted out in the autumn
to flower the following summer. Seeds should be
sown every year, and the plants require to be
planted in good garden soil so as to secure good
heads of bloom.

Of hardy perennial species and varieties, there is a
very numerous group. We will content ourselves
with indicating the most valuable of them. C. car-
patica, the Carpathian Hare-bell, forms neat, compact
tufts, about a foot in height, covered with large,
erect, blue flowers ; useful as an edging, bedding, or
border plant. Carpatica alba is a pure white variety,
similar in all other respects. They do well in any
good garden soil. C. garganica, the Gargano Hare-
bell, from Italy, is an excellent dwarf species, bearing
bluish-purple flowers, with white centres. It is well
adapted for rock-work, and for borders of light
gritty soil. C. glomerata dahurica is a very fine
variety of the Clustered Harebell, « very desirable
and handsome plant, invaluable for cutting, or for
the decoration of the flower border. It grows about
eighteen inches in height, forming a number of
stems producing clusters of flowers in the axils of
the leaves, and terminating with large heads of rich
deep purple blossoms; one of the finest hardy plants
in cultivation. This does well in any good soil; so
Joes C, grandis, the Great Bell-flower, a fine old-
fashioned perennial, forming a bush three feet in
height, composed of spikes thickly set with large
blue salver-shaped flowers; there is a fine white
variety of this also. C. grandiffora (more correctly
Platycodon grandijlorum) is the Noble Hare-bell, a

34

145

very effective hardy border perennial, producing,
late in autumn, erect spikes of large salver-shaped
blue flowers; this also has a white variety, and
they are both distinct in habit and bloom irom all
other Campanulas. C. Hendersonii is a hybrid Bell-
flower of great merit, possessing the characteristic
of flowering throughout the summer. The flowers
are large and very numerous, of a pretty mauve
colour, growing to about twelve inches in height,
forming a pyramidal outline. It is very vigorous
in growth, perfectly hardy, and very distinct, doing
well in a good loam. C. persicifolia is the Peach-
leaved Campanula, growing two and a half to three
feet in height, and bearing large, broadly bell-
shaped, blue flowers; there is a white variety also.
The double white-flowered form of this (C. persici-
folia alba florepleno) is one of the very best of the
genus; the flowers pure white, in long close
spikes; very double, and exceedingly free-growing ;
really a grand perennial. C. pulla, the Dark-
coloured Hare-bell, is one of the best of the dwarf
species, forming in cool shady situations carpets
of the loveliest verdure, and numerous stems two
inches in height, terminating with drooping deep
purple flowers; very charming when seen in a mass.
C. turbinata, the Vase Hare-bell, is a sturdy little
kind, four inches or so in height, and bearing,
for the size of the plant, huge, very handsome,
deep purple, cup-shaped flowers. It is of the
character of C. carpatica, but dwarfer, and with
larger flowers. There are several fine varieties of
this, and all do well on warm sandy slopes or
borders. C. Van Houttei is a very fine hybrid Bell-
flower, one of the finest and showiest of this exten-
sive genus, producing erect stems two feet in height,
bearing immense dark blue flowers, fully two inches
in length. A variety named pallida is a counterpart
of the preceding, but with pale lavender-coloured
flowers.

Of the green-house section we may mention two
species only—one, C. Barreliert (Barrelier’s Campa-
nula),a dwarf, trailing species, very suitable for
pots and baskets, bearing profusely large, pale,
greyish-blue, saucer-shaped flowers; a plant that
can often be met with in excellent form in cottage
windows; and the great Chimney Campanula, ¢.
pyramidalis, a noble plant for pot-culture, or the
back of the herbaceous border, forming a pyramid,
composed of numerous stems, four to five feet in
height, each stem being crowded with large, blue,
salver-shaped flowers. C. pyramidalis alba is similar
to the above in every respect, but bears white flowers.
These two do well in good soil, which should be well
manured in order to insure fine flowers; both can be
raised from seeds, C. Barrelieri does best in a gritty
soil, and a plant of it will last many years.

146

THE PINE-APPLE.

By Wiutiam Coleman.

PROPAGATION OF THE PINE,

po propagation of the Pine is easily effected
by means of suckers, crowns, gills, seeds, and
dormant buds.

Suckers.—With the exception of very shy kinds,
which do not produce suckers freely, there is no
difficulty in keeping up a good stock by leaving one
or two promising suckers near the base of each plant
at the time it throws up its fruit. It is not necessary
to take off the suckers before the old stool is removed
from the fruiting-pit, as they make very rapid growth
during the time they are feeding on the parent
plants; neither is it advisable to detach or pot them
during the winter months. Modern Pine-growers,
who produce such astonishing results in the course
of a few months, generally leave the suckers on the
stools, which are shaken out, and re-potted in small
‘pots, till they become very large and ripe at the base,
with an abundance of embryo roots, ready to take
‘to the soil as soon as they are potted into eight-inch
pots. Their age dates from the time they are potted.
Those from winter fruiters should be potted in March,
or any time during the summer, and those from
summer fruiters not later than September : after this
month, detachment should be deferred until spring.
If well managed in a bottom heat of 90°, they are

fit for the first and last shift into the fruiting-pots,

in February. They are again grown on rapidly,
‘until the pots are full of roots, when they are slightly
checked, but not starved, and they are ready for
starting by the time they are eighteen months old.
In the preparation of the suckers, all that is neces-
sary is to remove a few of the small leaves from the
base and to cut the end smvoth with a sharp knife ;
they are then ready for potting. The pots should be
clean, well crocked and dry, and from five to eight
inches in diameter. The soil should be rich, firm,
fibrous, and free from animal manure, as it will form
the nucleus of the future ball of the plant, and on
this account nothing likely to become pasty should
be used,

Crowns.—Young plants of very scarce or shy
kinds, such as the smooth-leaved Cayenne, which
never throws up many suckers, are frequently pro-
pagated from crowns; but Pine-growers do not
generally care for them, as it takes a much longer
time to grow them into fruiting plants, and the
prevailing impression is that they do not start so
freely or produce such heavy Pines as sucker plants.
Formerly it was the custom to strip off a few of the
lower leaves, pare the fleshy part off the base, and

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Jay them aside to dry before they were potted ; but it
is better to pot them at once, in very small pots
filled with dry fibrous soil, and plunge them in a
strong heat, where the moisture from the fermenting
bed will keep them fresh until the roots are formed,
when they may be sparingly watered.

Gills.—These are off-sets resembling miniature
suckers, produced at the base of the fruit; but being
very small, it requires a great deal of time to grow
them up to the size of ordinary suckers, They are
therefore seldom if ever used when good suckers can
be obtained. The best mode of propagation is the
insertion of a number of them round the inside of
the rim of a six-inch pot, and to pot them singly
when they are well rooted.

Seeds.—Those who are interested in the raising
of new varieties, and have the command of a good
stock of patience, can indulge in the interesting art
of cross-fertilisation by impregnating the flowers of
one kind with pollen obtained from another. The
pollen can be conveyed with a camel’s-hair pencil
when the atmosphere of the house is dry, and the
two plants selected are equally advanced. When
ripe, the seeds should be taken out of the pips, and
sown at once in light sandy soil placed in shallow
pans and previously warmed by being plunged in
the bed over «a temperature of 90° to 100°. If
covered to the depth of a quarter of an inch with
soil, and a bell-glass is placed over the pans, frequent
‘watering may be dispensed with, and the seeds will
germinate with more certainty than when these
precautions are neglected. When fit for handling,
the young plants must be potted off in light peaty
soil, and replaced in the closest part of the propa-
gating pit, where they can have a good bottom heat
and be kept close to the glass. As growth proceeds,
they will require constant shifts into larger pots,
until they have attained sufficient size to be placed
under the ordinary treatment which will be recom-
mended in the chapter on Cultivation. As all
hybridists are anxious to ascertain with as little
delay as possible the result of their labour, it is
a good plan to devote a small pit to the special
culture of seedlings, and to keep them constantly
growing until they arrive at the fruiting state,
which will not be less than three years.

Dormant Byes.—Choice kinds which yield few
suckers can be increased in the following way :—
When the old stools have produced the suckers which
started with or before the fruit, strip off all the old
leaves and lay them side by side, in shallow boxes
some six inches in depth, to admit of two inches of
drainage and four inches of soil, Fill in and cover

THE DARK-EYED FRINGED DENDROBE (DENDRO-
BIUM FIMBRIATUM ; VAR. OCULATUM).

«\ stove Epiphyte of great beauty from the East
Indies, belonging to Orchids. Of this most beautiful
plant our gardens contain two distinct varieties : one
with whole-coloured flowers, the other with a deep
rich pitch-brown spot in the middle of the lip. In
both the colour is otherwise of a rich apricot-yellow,
rendered the more brilliant in consequence of the
surface and edge of the lip being cut up into glitter-
ing points innumerable.

THE PINE-APPLE.

with light compost, plunge the boxes in a tan or
leaf bed where the heat beneath them ranges from
90° to 100°. Cover the tops of the boxes with large
squares of glass to prevent the soil from becoming
too wet, or too dry, as frequent watering is
objectionable. After a time some of the dormant
buds formed at the base of every leaf will begin
to swell and eventually burst into growth; but as
all of them will not start together, the most forward
Should be taken off with as little disturbance as
possible as soon as they have formed roots, when
they can be potted singly, and treated as seedlings.
Other buds, which might otherwise remain dor-
mart, will then go on starting into growth, until the
old stools are exhausted. It is the practice with
some to split up the stems, and cut them into squares
some two inches in length, for propagation after the
manner of striking Vine-eyes, in small pots plunged
in a strong bottom heat. But a little reflection will
convince the reader that reducing the already
enfeebled stems into so many small pieces must
cause a great loss of sap, which is not the case
when the stems are buried whole. It is the excite-
ment of the sap which causes the latent eyes to
start, and it will therefore at once become evident
that the use of the knife is objectionable. In our
own cultivation of the Pine-apple, both systems
have frequently been tried, and the first has always
resulted in the production of the greatest percentage
of young plants. In order to make these remarks
on propagation as intelligible and practical as pos-
sible, it may be well to close them by saying that
a small, close, efficiently heated pit in which plenty
of moisture can be constantly maintained, will form
the best structure for raising young plants in.
If bottom heat from pipes can be properly secured,
cocoa-nut fibre may be used as a plunging medium,
but when good Oak-leaves can be obtained there is
nothing to surpass them for Pines in every stage of
their growth, from the seed or the sucker to the ripe
fruit.

CULTIVATION.

Cultivation of Suckers.—The cultivation of
the Pine-apple may be commenced at any season of
the year, the best being undoubtedly the latter end
of the summer, as the plants which have produced
summer fruit are the most likely to be well furnished
with stout ripe suckers, fit for detaching by the end
of August, or early in September. Assuming then
that the pit (Fig. 4, p. 33) has been made up with fer-
menting material, consisting of Oak-leaves or tan, and
that the heat has declined to a little below 90°, pro-
ceed to take off the suckers, by twisting them back-
wards and forwards until they part from the stem ;
strip off the short scaly leaves, under which a number

147

of brown roots will be found ready for immediata
action ; cut the lower ends smooth with the knife,
and lay them aside in two sizes, ready for potting.
As cleanliness is an important item in successful
culture, provide a sufficient number of six and eight-
inch pots; if new, let them be soaked in water; if
old, thoroughly wash inside and out, and place them
in the sun to dry. Meantime, provide a supply of
clean crocks, oyster-shells, or charcoal, for drainage ;
break them rather small, and sift out the dust. Place
about two inches in each pot, the coarsest in the
bottom, and the finest on the surface; cover with a
little cocoa-nut fibre, and a few bits of rough turf;
then sprinkle with a pinch of dry soot, and place
them on the bench in the two sizes ready for use.

Potting.—If the compost is cold and damp,
spread it thinly in the sun or a warm house until it
is fit for use, then commence with the largest suckers,
and, as a matter of course, the largest pots; place
one in the centre of each pot, ram firmly with a pot-
ting stick to keep them steady, leaving nearly an inch
of space on the surface when finished, for the recep-
tion of water when roots are formed. Convey the
first batch to the plunging-pit, and proceed in a like
manner with the second size. When all the suckers
are potted, calculate the distance which the space at
command will allow to intervene between the pots,
and plunge to the rims, always bearing in mind that
the largest plants must occupy the back, and the
smallest the front of the pit. It sometimes happens
that the disturbance of the plunging material raises
the temperature of the bed to a degree which may be
considered too high for the well-being of the young
roots. Anything, however, which does not exceed
95° below the bottoms of the pots will do no harm,
as roots under such conditions are rapidly formed,
and soon find their way to the sides of the pots.
During the first fortnight it will be necessary to
shade from bright sunshine through the hottest part
of the day, and to dew the plants very lightly with
a syringe after the canvas is removed on fire after-
noons. The sides of the pit and the surface of the
bed may also be damped, but no water must be given
to the plants until the roots touch the sides of the
pots, when water at a temperature of 80° may be
given in sufficient quantity to moisten every part
of the ball. After the plants have been watered they
will soon begin to grow freely, when the shading
and damping may be reduced, but not entirely dis-
continued, on very bright days. Air may now be
given pretty freely early on fine mornings, and
gradually increased as the plants become strong, and
capable of bearing full exposure to light. Shading
must be entirely dispensed with, and the syringe very
sparingly used, at leact overhead, otherwise a weakly

148

growth will be encouraged on the commencement of
winter, a condition from which, as is well known to
practical Pine-growers, no after-treatment can en-
tirely restore them.

As future success depends upon keeping the plants
vigorous, compact, and sturdy through the winter
months, care must be taken that they do not sink too
far away from the glass, which must be kept scrupu-
lously clean; that they do not become crowded to
the slightest extent; and air must be given, as may
be most convenient, either at the back or front, so as
to avoid creating a draught.

Assuming that the plants occupy a light pit and
the points of the leaves nearly touch the glass, the
temperature throughout September should range
from 65° at night to 75° by day, with air, and 10° to
15° more for a short time after being shut up on fine
afternoons, with solar heat. As days decrease in
length, and sun-heat becomes feeble, a gradual fall in
the top and bottom heat should take place through
October to the extent of, say, 5°, more or less, ac-
cording to the state of the weather, so that by the
beginning of November the bottom heat will range
from 76° to 80°, and the top heat from 58° at
night to 65° by day. As there is no standing still in
nature, the object through the winter months should
be the maintenance of steady heat, which will keep
the plants slightly progressing. This is the safest
and only means by which the roots can be kept in a
fresh, healthy condition; and as the minimum heats
contained in the preceding paragraph will be found
ample, they must not be exceeded when it is mild,
while in the event of unusually dark, heavy, or severe
weather setting in, it will be found the most pru-
dent course to descend a little from these figures, in
preference to following the old and now exploded
plan of exciting the plants when they should be

resting.

Water.—If any of the plants are plunged within
the influence of the hot-water pipes, it will be neces-
sary to examine them occasionally, and in the event
of the tan having become dry, a little water must
be given, not only to the plants so situated, but to the
tan as well. It is not, however, often necessary to
apply water in winter, as the plunging material is, as
a rule, sufficiently moist to keep the soil and roots in
a sound and healthy condition, Still, with hot-
water pipes around and below the small pots, there
is always a possibility of some being affected by the
dry heat, and it is by paying timely attention to
minor details like these that some succeed where
others fail.

Ina preceding chapter attention was drawn to the
importance of making provision, be it never so
limited, for getting into the smallest pits in winter,

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

as well as for covering the glass in severe weather
during the hours of darkness. Under the old system
of management the first arrangement was not con-
sidered necessary ; consequently it often happened
that for days and weeks together the lights could not.
be opened to admit of the daily details receiving
timely attention. To compensate for this drawback,
and to insure what were considered snug and com-
fortable quarters for the almost hermetically encased
plants, a general turn-over took place as soon as the
newly-fallen Oak-leaves could be secured ; a violent
bottom heat followed, and the roots of every plant.
perished, owing to their subjection to a temperature
considerably too high for Pines at any season of the
year. Some twenty-five years ago it was my mis-
fortune to take to a stock of Pines in May, which
had been so treated. Every plant was rootless, and,
down to the smallest succession, started into fruit.
Had the plants been allowed to remain in the old
plunging material until February, there can be no
doubt that the white, healthy roots, which every good
Pine-grower now expects to find about that time,
would have been present, and the loss of a number of
good plants would have been avoided.

Ventilation.—In mild winters we experience
many fine days, when a little air for an hour or two
can be admitted, without having recourse to extra
firing. Whenever this is the case, a very small
opening at the apex will change and sweeten the
atmosphere ; great care must, however, be observed,
as the smallest chink will soon tell upon the tem-
perature, and sudden depressions are at all times
injurious. But'as a constant supply of fresh air is
important, and we no longer have the old six-inch
squares of glass with open laps, forming a most per-
fect system of ventilation, or filtration of the air,
the best arrangement under the modern system of
glazing will be found in the introduction of sliding
brick ventilators under every light, a little above the
ground-line, and opposite the hot-water pipes, both in
the front and back walls. As these can be opened or
closed from the exterior in all weathers, and the air
so introduced becomes warm before it reaches the.
foliage, plants can be kept in the best possible condi-
tion when the elements are adverse to top ventilation.

Winter Growth.—In Pine-growing establish-
ments, where a good stock of plants in every stage
of growth exists, the treatment here recommended for
the management of autumn suckers will result in the
production of a set of robust healthy succession plants,
fit for shifting in February, and growing steadily on
into fruiting stock by the following autumn. But,
assuming that a general stock does not exist, and
fruiting plants are wanted with all speed, then a

THE PINE-APPLE.

slight departure from the lines laid down is open to
the cultivator, provided he has the command of a
light span-roofed pit like the engraving (Fig. 5), in
which the plants can be kept steadily growing under
the influence of a day and night temperature slightly
in excess of that recommended for the ordinary stock
of suckers. In a pit of this kind the plants will
have the benefit of every ray of light and sunshine
throughout the winter months, moisture can be given
in moderation, and the increase in the day and night
temperature, instead of being bound by any hard and
fast line through all weathers, will naturally take
place when the sky is bright, and the external atmo-
sphere is mild. In the selection of suckers for this
purpose, the strongest of the Queens are to be pre-
ferred, as they grow freely and quickly into a fruit-
ing condition. But unless
the suitable convenience
is at command, not only
for growing the plants
through the winter, but
also for resting them in
May, this attempt to steal
a march will be best left
alone, as there is great
danger of getting the
plants drawn into a soft
weakly growth, a ‘con-
dition which will most
certainly defeat the ob-
ject held in view, namely,
the production of ripe fruit in little over twelve
months after the rootless suckers have been potted.

Succession Plants.—If all has gone on well,
the plants which little more than five months ago
were rootless suckers, will now be considered Succes-
sion Plants, a term by which they are usually distin-
guished from fruiters, and it is of these that we are
now about to treat.

About the end of January, or early in February,
the September-potted suckers will have filled their
pots with roots; but, owing to the unusual size of
the pots which were used, and the possibility of a
protracted period of rough weather, there will yet
remain some two or three weeks, which will be quite
as well devoted to the gentle excitement of the roots,
and the necessary preparations for potting. The
experienced Pine-grower can tell at a glance when
the plants are ready for the final shift into fruiting-
pots, but the uninitiated will do well to make a
careful examination of a few of the most promising,
and if the roots are not sufficiently numerous to keep
the ball well together, the operation of shifting
should be deferred until they are in a satisfactory
condition.

Fig. 5.—Span-Roorep Pir.

44, Plunging-bed; BB, drainage; cc, ventilators; d, pas-
sage; ce, hot-air chambers ; 00, pipes.

In order to accelerate this process, an .

149

early start being important, the top and bottom heats
may be gradually raised about 5° higher than was
recommended for the preceding three months ; atmo-
spheric moisture may also be slightly increased, and,
if needful, a little warm water at a temperature of 80°
may be applied to the roots. Under this treatment,
with the temperature ranging from 60° at night to
70° by day, the white, healthy roots will soon begin
to push, and the best possible condition for potting
will have been secured. If, on the other hand, any of
the plants have become pot-bound, the balls should
be gently pressed with the hands until the roots can
be disentangled, as matted balls are apt to become
dry, and the roots, having pursued a spiral direction,
do not take so freely to the new compost. Moreover,
the watering of newly-potted plants in February
being undesirable, neglect
of this simple preliminary
operation may result in
some of the strongest and
best plants starting pre-
maturely into fruit. With
these hints for his guid-
ance the intelligent ama-
teur will ever be on the
watch, not only for the
suitable condition of his
plants, but also for a mild,
favourable period for the
performance of the work.

Preparations for Potting.—When itis borne
in mind that the plants now under treatment will
occupy the pots to which they are about to be trans-
ferred until they have ripened off their fruit, and
matured one or two suckers, it will be obvious that
this is one of the most important operations, and, as
such, should receive the greatest attention in all its
details. Some ten days before the time for shifting
arrives every plant should be examined, and watered
sufficiently to bring every particle of the soil into a
healthy growing state, and a little more air should
be given to prevent the excitement applied to the
roots from affecting the leaves prior to the removal
to the potting-bench. During the few days which
will intervene the necessary preliminaries in the
potting-shed must be proceeded with, so that every-
thing- may be ready at hand when a suitable day for
potting arrives. Having thoroughly cleansed the
pots inside and out, let them be crocked with the
same materials and care as was recommended for
suckers, using the lower stratum of crocks, also well
washed, a little coarser, and finishing off with finer
particles quite free from dust.

Size of Pots.—The size of the pots may vary

150 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

from ten inches in diameter for the second size, to
eleven or twelve inches for the strongest and best
plants. Pots above this size will be superfluous, and
the plants in the hands of the amateur will be more
liable to get out of order; indeed, very -fine Pines
can be grown in much smaller pots than the sizes
here recommended, as succéss depends more upon
feeding at the proper time, and daily attention to
minor details, than it does upon a large mass of soil.
Having already discussed the soil, its preparation,
and the necessary corrective ingredients, it is only
requisite to say that it must be dry; but as this
ig a vague term, it may be explained as meaning
a compost sufficiently free from moisture to admit of
any amount of ramming or pressing without be-
coming adhesive, or losing its elasticity. In many
instances early spring plants have been potted -in
soil which has been much too wet, and the unsatis-
factory progress which they have made has been
attributed to every cause but the right one. If, then,
the compost is not thoroughly satisfactory, it is better
to defer: potting until it is made so by the addition
of rough, dry charcoal, or burnt earth, and exposure
to the atmosphere of a house, where it can become
thoroughly warm before it is used.

Preparation of the House.—If the house or
pit intended for the reception of the plants has been
previously used, it should be thoroughly cleansed,

the glass and woodwork well washed—the latter

painted, if necessary—and the walls whitewashed
with quicklime and sulphur, for the twofold purpose
of destroying all insect life, and aiding in the diffu-
sion of light and heat, two important points in the
management of plants at this early season. The
preparation of the plunging material will next re-
quire consideration. If new tan or leaves have to
be used for giving bottom heat, they should be
collected, and well worked out of doors, where they
can be protected from wet, to get rid of the violent
heat before they are placed in the pit, otherwise
they will give much trouble in the future by becom-
ing too hot for the well-being of the roots. It is
quite true that they will not be placed in immediate
contact with the plunging material, consequently a
strong bottom heat will not injure them so much
directly as by forcing a weak, elongated growth at a
time when it is all-important that the plants should be
kept dwarf and sturdy. To avoid this dilemma it is
the safest plan to sift all the old tan, at least once a
year, and add a moderate quantity of new, either to
the surface or, in larger quantities, near the back
and front walls of the pit, to be properly mixed with

the old when the bed again requires renovating.

When the old tan occupies the centre of the bed, and
the outside rows are plunged in the new, they are in

the most convenient position for rocking or lifting
should this undesirable operation be found necessary.
Good, sound Oak-leaves, if obtainable in proper con-
dition in November, though certainly a little more
troublesome than tan, are considered, by many the
best for plunging purposes, as the gases, together
with the moisture, which they are constantly giving
off, contain all the elements conducive to the vigour
and health of the plants. Therefore, when and
where these are constantly used, their preparation
should be commenced as soon as they are harvested;
then, as has been advised in the management of tan,
their introduction should be piecemeal, by placing a
small quantity of the new on the surface of the bed,
and leaving the lower stratum undisturbed. The
greatest drawback where leaves are used, and the
old leaf-mould is not removed annually, is the ra-
pidity with which worms increase, and, as a matter of
course, find their way into the pots. Now, notwith-
standing the fact that modern theorists have elevated
these subterraneous workers by proving that they
fertilise and improve our pastures by raising tons of
soil to the surface, plant-growers in general, and
Pine-growers in particular, dread their presence in
their plunging-beds, and very naturally use their
best endeavours to destroy them. The most effectual
way is to remove all the infected matter, and, after
well dressing the sides and bottom of the pit with
quicklime, replace with new. If this is impracticable,
then the whole of the bed should be turned over,
dressed with lime as the work proceeds, and made
firm and level, ready for the reception of the new
leaves.

Where hot-water pipes are used for giving bottom
heat, as is shown in the sections, all these difficulties
are reduced or done away with, as the valves can be
opened or shut’ at pleasure, and the heat regulated
to a degree. The plunging material, under this the
best of all arrangements, being just deep enough to
receive the pots, may consist of tan, cocoa-nut fibre,
or leaves, all good Pine-growers much preferring the
latter after they have once tried them.

Potting.—With pots, compost, and plunging-bed
in satisfactory order, select a number of the best plants
from the pit; but before turning them out of the pots,
strip off a few of the lower short leaves to allow of
their being placed a little deeper in the pots they
are about to occupy, as well as to encourage the
formation of more surface roots from the hard,
brown part of the stem. When turned out remove
all the old crocks, and every particle of loose, inert
soil. Carefully preserve the roots from injury, and
proceed to fill the new pot with the roughest part of
the compost, which must be moderately well rammed
until its level will admit of the top of the ball being

THE PINE-APPLE. 151

placed two inches below the level of the rim. If in
thoroughly good condition and abundantly supplied
with roots, a twelve-inch shift may be given; if only
indifferently rooted, use a smaller size, as it is of no
use sending the carriage in advance of the steed.
Fill in with rough compost: ram firmly with a
potting-stick as the work proceeds, and finish off
with a little fine soil, raising it slightly round the
collar of the plant. If the staple of the compost is
heavier than that recommended at page 34, then the
ramming, so essential in the use of light sandy loams,
need not be so closely followed up; but all soils in
which the Pine-apple will thrive should be made
so firm as to prevent the possiblity of much moisture
being held in suspension, while it is sufficiently
sound and free to admit of the free passage of water
after it has been applied to the surface.

Having selected all the best plants, which may be
presumed to occupy the eight-inch pots, and placed
them in the larger size for fruiters, proceed with the
second class and treat them in a similar way, only
using the ten and eleven-inch pots. It invariably
happens that some of the plants are found badly
rooted—it may be through being too wet, from drip,
or from being too cold; be this as it may, plants
in such a condition should not be shifted into
larger pots until the sucker-pots are properly filled
with roots. Therefore the proper course will be a
careful examination of the crocks and soil, when,

these being satisfactory, return the plant to the.

original pot to be replaced in the sucker-pit. If the
examination is unsatisfactory, shake away all the
soil, trim off all decayed parts, and re-pot in new
compost.

When all the plants are potted, proceed with
their arrangement in the succession house in the
following manner :—Select as many of the tallest
plants, irrespective of the size of the pots, as will
form the back row, allowing a clear space of two
feet from stem to stem for Queens, and a little
more for Cayennes and Rothschilds. Then proceed
with the second row, and finish off with the most
stocky plants at the front. The distance here
recommended may appear rather extravagant, but
not if it is borne in mind that, with the whole of
the growing season before us, and the great import-

ance which attaches to full exposure to light, any-

thing short of this space will soon interfere with its
proper diffusion at a time when the production of
broad, stout, inflexible foliage must be the predomi-
nating aim of the cultivator. The depth to which
the pots may be plunged must be regulated by the
state of the bed. If the bottom heat ranges from
85° to 90°, they may be plunged two-thirds of their

depth in the tan or leaves; if it exceeds 90°, then.

shallower, by placing them in a basin, which can be

filled up when the heat declines to 85°. As the
abuse rather than the use of bottom heat at this
early season has to be guarded against, a bottom
heut thermometer placed in the bed will soon indicate
any sudden rise, which so often takes place imme-
diately after the tan has been disturbed. A few
degrees for a short time will not.make much dif-
ference; but if it continues, rocking must be resorted
to, not so much for the protection of the roots, which
have not yet reached the sides, as to prevent a too
rapid growth so early in the season. For a few
days after potting the plants must be kept rather
close, with plenty of atmospheric moisture, produced.
by damping the walls and floors two or three times a
day, and by keeping the evaporating pans full of pure
water ; but overhead syringing must not be indulged
in. The temperature during this period and through
the month of March may range from 60° to 65° at
night, and 70° to 75° by day, when the weather is
favourable; but as few Pine-growers now believe in
fixed temperatures, these figures must be taken as
the mean to which the heats above or below must
approximate, and be governed by external con-
ditions. .

When the roots have commenced making their way
through the new compost, which can be observed by
the sharp, turgid texture of the foliage, a little air
must be given every day when the temperature
touches 70° with the prospect of its rising to 75°.
About 1 p.m. on bright days reducing may be com-
menced, to be followed by complete closing in time.
for sun-heat to raise the house to 80°. As there is:
no rule without an exception, so there is no fixed
rule by which cultivators are governed ; these figures:
are only approximate; but if judiciously adhered to,
the young beginner will find that by the middle of
April he has overcome the risk which attends the
one-shift system, by getting the roots well in advance
of the foliage, and in the best possible condition for
receiving their first supply of water.

Watering.—From the end of February to the
middle of April may seem a long time to keep the
plants without water ; but it is not too long, for plants
plunged in a moist fermenting medium are con-
stantly receiving moisture from it, as well:as from
the atmosphere, and this at a season when the
perspiratory organs of a plant like the Pine-apple
in a glass structure are not very active. Indeed,
more mischief is done in Pine-stoves by the too
liberal application of water to the roots in early
spring than many people imagine. Mere driblets, on
the other hand, are equally pernicious, as the surface
roots only are reached by the water, and the inex-
perienced are misled by the moistened appearance of
the soil, when the active roots which have struck

152

down to the drainage really require a good supply
of this important element. Practised growers can
tell by the appearance of the plants when water is
needed, and the unskilled can easily ascertain for
themselves by an examination of the soil, and the
ring of the pots—if dull and heavy, they may be
considered wet enough; if sharp and hollow, water
will do no harm, although they may not be suffering.
If provision has been made for storing soft water,
this will be found the best for watering and syringing
with. The temperature should not be below 80°
when it is applied, and the quantity, it is hardly
necessary to repeat, should be sufficient to permeate
every part of the balls of the plants to which it is
given.

Summer Treatment.—By the end of April
the steadily-maintained bottom heat of 85°, com-
bined with the stimulus produced by the supply of
tepid water in the early part of the month, will have
started the plants into good growth. The stems
will now begin to swell out, and the dark green
leaves, by taking their natural mode of growth, and
spreading themselves out in every direction, so as to
secure the greatest: amount of light, will soon show
that the space of two feet allotted to each plant,
while giving them plenty of room, is by no means
extravagant. If the weather is fine and mild the
temperature may be gradually raised to 70° as the
mean for the night, or, properly speaking, the morn-
ing, as after bright, sunny afternoons, when a goodly
amount of sun-heat can be shut in, the house may
stand about 75° at banking-time, and gradually fall
to 70° at daylight. A little night air, admitted
through the front sliding ventilators placed opposite
the hot-water pipes, will do good service in keeping
the foliage stout and healthy until the days increase
in length and brightness, when this danger, as the
necessity for sharp firing decreases, will be reduced
to a minimum.

As sun-heat and daylight increase, so must the
amount of atmospheric moisture, by keeping the
evaporating-pans full of water, and damping the
walls, paths, and surface of the bed at intervals
during the day. Overhead syringing at this early
season need not be frequent, otherwise the water
which finds its way into the axils of the leaves ‘will
descend to the surface roots, and more than counteract
the good it is expected.to produce. An occasional
dewing over, however, witha very fine syringe, which
will deposit the water in the form of spray, after
the house is closed with strong heat, will be bene-
ficial; for, while cleansing the foliage, it will soon
be absorbed by the atmosphere, and so produce con-
ditions in which the Pine makes the most satisfactory
progress.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Strong fire-heat, at all times objectionable, must
be reduced as much as possible by every means
within the cultivator’s reach consistent with the
maintenance of the proper day and night temperature.
The former can be considerably increased by giving
a chink of air at the apex as soon as the sun begins
to play upon the glass, by gradually increasing it
until the highest point, 85°, is reached, and by shut-
ing up very early in the afternoon, with the prospect
of the confined solar heat raising it to 90°, or a few
degrees more. Asa matter of course, the house will
be immediately syringed to counteract the drawing
influence which would otherwise be produced. To
husband the heat so enclosed, the blinds should be
let down when night air is given, and drawn up
again when it is shut off in the morning. With
many Pine-growers who have an abundance of hot-
water power at their command, this important matter
does not receive the attention it deserves; indeed,
some disregard night-shading altogether; but let
them try the experiment with two houses in every
respect alike as to heating and aspect, and they will
soon find that the consumption of fuel is considerably
reduced, while the warmth and steady humidity of
the interior are preserved beyond their expectations.
All admit that growing Pines must have a plentiful
supply of moisture; that this, as well as heat, escapes
more rapidly on bright moonlight nights than when
the sky is overcast and cloudy; and, further, that the
cold glass is w rapid condenser; therefore, if the
glass could be kept as warm as the interior of the
house, no heat would escape; but as this cannot be
more than’ partially attained, good non-conducting
shading through the night will be found an invaluable
boon to the Pine-grower.

By the middle of May the roots will have found
their way to the crocks and sides of the pots, and
under the influence of the great amount of sun-heat
which can now be shut in, growth will be very
marked and rapid. This will, of course, necessitate
more frequent attention to syringing and watering,
or rather to the production of more atmospheric mois-
ture by damping the walls and paths, and dewing
the plants overhead occasionally, to keep the foliage
clean and fresh, Every plant should be examined
once a week, and if the soil appears dry some two
or three inches from the surface, water, tinged with
guano, may be given in quantity sufficient to reach
the drainage; but the requirements of individual
plants being doubtful, they may be allowed to stand
over until the following week, as the moisture given
to counteract sharp fire-heat through the night, and
the long period through which they are kept in a
humid, feeding atmosphere after closing for the day,
prevent the waste one might imagine: hence the
importance of keeping the roots well in hand, and.

THE PINE-APPLE.

while avoiding a check from dryness, carefully
guarding against getting them into a wet state.

Some three months having elapsed since the plung-
ing-bed was made up, it will now be necessary to
ascertain if anything is needed to keep it in proper
condition. There are two evils to which Pine-beds
are liable, and neglect of either of them, now the
roots are working round the pots, may prove very
serious. If composed of fermenting material alone,
whether leaves or tan, the effect produced by more
frequent watering, and the increasing power of the
sun, is sometimes so marked as to raise the tempera-
ture of the bed several degrees in the space of a few
hours. To counteract this the plunging thermo-
meter should be carefully watched, and when the
heat exceeds 90° the pots should be rocked until they
stand loosely in the tan; when the heat, often tran-
sient, has subsided, the plunging material may be
pressed back to their sides again. Although the
roots are extremely tender, and easily injured by
strong heat, disturbance is not advisable if it can be
avoided; but when deeply-plunged pots are kept in
very strong heat for any length of time the roots
suffer, like the foliage, by being drawn too fast, if
they do not get killed. The other evil to which
attention must be paid is what is termed ‘‘ heating
dry,” no uncommon occurrence when hot water is
the moving power, and tan or leaves the plunging
medium. It sometimes happens that deep, old tan
beds get dry, but in either case the remedy is the
same—the application of water in such a way that it
will pass through the tan without touching the roots.
If the plants have got too low, or too thick, an event
of this kind offers a good opportunity for lifting, and
re-arranging them in the old tan after it has been
corrected; but with the roots in a highly sensitive
state all Pine-growers should dread any interference
which will cause violent fermentation. Ventilation
throughout the month, and, in fact, throughout the
summer, must be conducted on the same principle,
that is, the admission of a little air at the apex as
soon as the sun begins to tell on the glass, and a
gradual increase with a rising thermometer until the
maximum of 85° is reached. Although fire-heat is
still « necessity, yet by storing up sunshine all the
afternoon the starting of fires may often be delayed,
but care must be taken that the houses do not fall
below 70° at night—a temperature which will admit
of shutting it off early on fine mornings, when night
air is also taken away, for early syringing.

Shading.—As the days approach their greatest
length, and the sun its highest altitude, a little light
shading may be necessary for a short time through
the hottest part of the day: but unless the houses
are very light, and closely glazed, and the tips of the

188

leaves, now close to the glass, show a tendency to
become brown, the plants will make a more satisfac-
tory growth under full exposure. One of the very
worst practices, which cannot be too strongly con-
demned, is systematic shading, as it softens and
weakens the whole system of the plants, and very
often thwarts the cultivator in his otherwise well-
directed efforts to get them into suitable condition
for going into partial rest in October. In modern
Pineries some shade is undoubtedly necessary when
bright sun breaks upon them before the pipes have
cooled down after sharp firing; but when they have
become cold, if all is going on well at the root,
steady atmospheric moisture will be found quite
sufficient to prevent the foliage from becoming brown
and wiry, a condition in which they cannot perspire
freely. Any one having grown Pines, Queens in
particular, in the old-fashioned, small-squared, open-
lapped houses, knows how compact, fresh, and green
the foliage can be kept through the hottest summers
without a thread of shading; a fair proof that, of two
evils, a little tinge of brown is of less consequence
than a soft watery growth.

Through the months of June and July the plants
must have what may be termed liberal treatment,
both as regards air and water, and the more frequent
application of moisture from the syringe. The day
and night temperature during this period will not
require any alteration, as ordinary summer weather
will admit of a minimum of 70° being maintained
with a chink of air, almost without having to start
the fires; but where bottom heat is obtained from
hot-water pipes, gentle fires are always found ne-
cessary to keep up the proper degree of heat, which
should be kept steadily at 85°. The maximum of 85°,
with a rise of 5° after closing, will be secured by the
early opening and closing of the ventilators, and by
opening the top-heat valves on dull mornings in such
exceptional seasons as have been experienced during
the past seven years. The pots being now full of
roots, water at the temperature of the bed, with a little
guano or good clarified liquid manure added, must be
given in larger quantities as often as may be found
needful to keep the soil in what is known as a good
growing condition, but not so wet as Pines intended
for late spring starting will bear. When overhead
syringing is thought necessary, the water should be
soft, and as warm as the atmosphere of the house at
the time it is shut up. If the surface of the bed, as
well as the walls and floors, are nicely moistened twice
a day, the overhead syringing, even in the hottest
weather, must be light, otherwise the most forward
plants, particularly the Queens, will show a tendency
to throw out suckers ; and as these will rob the plants,
they must be twisted out with a pair of pincers as
soon as they are formed.

154

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD
GARDENING.

‘ALPINE PLANTS.
By Epwarp W. BaneeEr, F.R.H.S.

Rock Mounds and Beds.—There are many
small gardens where the rock borders, and the still
more extensive rockeries contemplated in the fore-
going remarks, would be out of place, or for which
sufficient room could not be found. Insuch gardens
only a small space can be set apart for an Alpinery,
and this must usually take the; form of a single bed
or mound, or perhaps two at most. In these cases,
the choicest Alpine gems should have the preference,
and no trouble be stinted to insure their successful
cultivation. It is fortunate that some of the love-
liest of these plants may be grown in perfection under
such a variety of circumstances, that the humblest
amateur may undertake the cultivation of a select
collection of them, with the fullest assurance that
they will thrive in his garden as well as in the ex-
tensive grounds of the neighbouring peer, provided
he will be at a little trouble. The remarks on the
preparation of rock borders and the formation of
pockets (see page 77) contain all the information
which any intelligent person would require in order
to make the best kind of bed or mound for growing
Alpines. A sufficient depth of soil to afford ample

room for deeply penetrating roots to wander at will ;.

soil of the proper kind to yield a supply of the neces-
sary food and to retain moisture in sufficient degree ;
isolation of one plant from another by the stones
used to form the pockets; the prevention of over-
crowding or thé preponderance of strong-growing
plants over weaker-growing ones; never allowing
the plants to get dry at the roots during the grow-
ing months, and preventing the stagnation of water
about the roots when the plants are at rest: these
are the conditions of success for the grower of a
small number of plants, as well as for one who has
room for uw full collection; and the results, other
things being equal, will be as satisfactory in the one
case as the other.

The rock mound or bed should be in a fully
exposed position, away from the shade of trees
and walls, open to every ray of sunshine and all
the rain that falls. Its shape is of no moment
so long as it harmonises with its surroundings;
and the more it can be made to assume the ap-
pearance of a natural outgrowth of the position
occupied, the greater will be the charm of it. The
smaller it is, the more the need to keep it moderate
in height ; for though it is an advantage for it to be
above the general level of the surrounding garden,
it would be a great disadvantage to make it so high

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

in proportion to its size as to unduly expose toa.
large a surface to the drying effects of a parching
east wind or broiling sunshine. This is a point to
be insisted on, because the bulk of small rockeries
are invariably made higher than is proper. It is.
possible to make a very attractive rock mound ona
small scale. This is to be done by raising the
surface a foot or eighteen inches above the level of
the surrounding surface, margining the outline with
stones so as to define the bed and provide places for
plants which thrive better in a dependent position,

_ and then making the remainder of the surface into

as many pockets as there is room for, according to-
the size and rate of growth of the plants which
it is intended to use.

A very charming bed might be made if no other
genus than Saxifraga were used to plant it. Using
the various forms of the generic type of Saxifrage,
of which London Pride is the best-known repre-
sentative, for the margins, and for the next tier
some of the closer-growing moss-like species such
as S. atropurpurea, Wallacei, &c., and then in
the higher parts planting some of the encrusted
forms from the larger 8. longifolia and pyramidatis
down to the tiny cesia, with an intermingling of
plants of the oppositifolia section, where they could
rest on a ledge of stone and hang down in front of
it, a collection of lovely plants, whether in or out of
flower, would be brought together and, as it were,
focussed for observation, which could not fail to
please at all seasons of the year. But where more
variety is desired, as it will be in most places, the
Saxifrages may be intermingled with Sempervivums,
the smaller Campanulas, such as S. pulla, pumila
(white and blue), carpatica, muralis, and turbinata,
afew of the dwarfer bulbous plants (Snowdrops,
Crocuses, Scillas, Chionodoxa Lucilie), some of the
smaller Dianthuses, Gentians, and Hepaticas, or any
of the many dwarf and compact-growing plants
which will be named later on in our selection of
Alpine plants for general use. We should advise.
young beginners to content themselves at first with
some of the plants most easily grown, and which will
be marked with an asterisk (*) in our selected list.
When they have grown these successfully and
gained experience, they will be able to adventure
with more confidence on the cultivation of more
difficult plants.

Natural Rockeries.—There are many gardens
in this country, situated on hillsides and elsewhere,
in which there exist possibilities needing only to
be used to be converted into natural rockeries which.
would far surpass any artificial ones capable of con-
struction at ten times the expense these would cost.
Wherever the underlying rock, whether sandstone,

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING.

limestone, chalk, or granite, is so near the surface as
to be easily laid bare, and the surface is irregular
in outline, here a natural rockery may be almost
always made at trifling cost. If the conditions
occur in a cottage garden, however small, they may
be utilised, and even in the largest domain the con-
ditions may not be more capable of effective use,
though on a larger scale. Where disused stone-
quarries occur in grounds, they often offer oppor-
tunities of the greatest value which, used judiciously,
will afford charming rockeries; and disused gravel
and marl pits may often be converted into strikingly
beautiful homes for many lovely plants under the
directing hand of a skilled operator. In all spots
where the natural rock crops out at the surface, or
is so near it as to be easily made the surface, the
most satisfactory results are easy of attainment, and
should be utilised.

Materials for the Rockery.—Natural stone
should be preferred when it can be obtained. Some
kinds are better than others, but the kind common
to the district will generally be most used. Even
though it should be less effective than some other
kind which can be got only at great trouble and
expense, the trivial disadvantage may be compensated
for in a large degree by using it judiciously as an
adjunct rather than as a prominent feature, and by
the proper planting of such subjects as will speedily
cover the greater part of it. Red Sandstone, Old or
New, is perhaps the most universally useful kind for
most purposes. The grits and conglomerates are nearly
all as good. The limestones, again, are capable of
most artistic use, and are sure to be preferred if most
easily obtainable. Schists and shales may often be
employed with effect. ‘Where natural rock is unob-
tainable, or very costly, artificial blocks made of brick
rubble and concrete, if skilfully constructed, are by
no means to be despised, though to produce anything
really good with this material artistic skill is a
most necessary condition ; and the amateur is there-
fore advised, if he has to depend on himself alone, to
avoid artificial rock-work, and use natural rock.

One kind of rock only should be used in a
garden; for nothing is more ridiculous than for the
rockery to present an appearance in any way sug-
gestive of a collection of mineralogical specimens.
Much less rock is really needed for the formation of
a first-class rockery than is usually employed. Its
chief uses are to form the ribs of the construction,
whatever its size; to assist in retaining moisture
in contact with the roots; to prevent unduly quick
evaporation at the surface, and to aid in the healthy
development of roots, which it undoubtedly does,
as any one may readily ascertain by examining the
buried stones in an established rockery.

155

But under this heading it will bo as well to say a
word about materials which should be avoided, and
this is the more necessary because they are constantly
used, and are often found hurtful or ridiculous. On
no account employ the roots of trees for Alpines.
However picturesque these may look for a time,
sooner or later they will decay, and give rise to
a frequent cause of death to plants large and small,
namely, the mycelium of various kinds of fungi,
which, ramifying about the roots of living plants,
will very rapidly lead to their destruction, after first
debilitating them. Decaying roots of trees are also.
favourite haunts of slugs, and many insects hurtful
to vegetation. They are, therefore, on both accounts.
to be carefully avoided. And as the kind of rockery
we wish to become common in our gardens is to be
as far as possible an imitation of a natural rockery,
all adventitious and extravagant materials should
be kept away; such, for instance, as pieces of statues,
portions of old buildings, or anything else that bears
vestiges of man’s handiwork upon it. Study nature
as to the materials to be found in her prettiest bits of
rock garden, and follow her teaching implicitly, and
there will be no fear of a repetition of the hideous.
jumbles which hitherto have been far too common
in our gardens.

Bog-plants.—The Alpine flora includes many
lovely plants which thrive only in bogs or boggy

‘places. No traveller with any interest in gardening,

who sees these plants in a state of nature, but will
desire to transfer some of them to his own garden.
If he is to do so successfully, it will be necessary for-
him to provide for them as many of the conditions.
under which they were found thriving in their-
Alpine solitude as possible. Of these, the most im-
portant are aconstant supply of moisture, and soil of
amore or less peaty nature. In our own country the
alteration of natural conditions by draining and other
operations has rendered many of our bogs and
marshes incapable of growing several native plants
which previously grew profusely. This suggests the.
lesson we wish to impart, namely, that where it is de-
sired to grow bog-loving plants in an English garden,
an artificial bog must be provided for them. And this
may be done inmany gardens without an extraordinary
expenditure of money or labour. Wherever there is
a little rill of water or a pool, however small, the
formation of a bog will be easy of accomplishment.
When neither is at hand, a pipe laid on from a water-
service, or from some vessel at a higher level kept
filled from time to time—which need not involve much
labour for the supply of a sufficiency of water even.
during the hottest and driest months—will be found
a very efficient plan for keeping a miniature bog suf-
ficiently moist to admit of many plants being grown.

156

in perfection. In some way, then, a continuous supply
of moisture at the roots is a necessary condition for
‘the successful cultivation of bog-plants: it is not a
Jarge quantity that is required, so long as it is never
absent}; it is therefore desirable, in order to econo-
anise the supply of water to the utmost, that arrange-
ments should be made to insure it trickling from the
source of supply as gently as possible, and in such a
smanner as to insure its regular diffusion over the
entire area devoted to bog-plants.

One way of securing this result is to arrange a little
-rocky basin at the highest available level, into which
‘the water should be first discharged, and from which,
being margined by gently-sloping stones, the water
will pass by gravitation to the lower level on which
“the bog is situated. The bog-bed may be made of any
‘size, according to requirements and space available—
afew square feet or yards, or on any larger scale de-
sired. As a rule, small bogs only will be made where
the water has to be supplied with some difficulty, but
the principle of construction will be much the same
whatever the size.

The first thing to do after having fixed on
the site, will be to remove the ordinary garden soil
‘to a depth of from twenty to thirty inches at least,
over the entire area of the bed. This space must
‘then be filled with peat, peaty soil, or such substi-
‘tutes in the way of vegetable mould, decayed leaves,
and some peat, as the ease or difficulty of obtaining
these ingredients may render most convenient.
As it is impossible to provide by general directions
-for all possible combinations of circumstances, we
‘shall content ourselves with a statement of such first
‘principles as are applicable to all cases, and which only
need applying with intelligence to lead to success.
‘When peat or peaty soil is easily procurable, it is
always to be preferred. Where it can be obtained
-only at considerable cost, as in districts where it is
scarce, a fairly good substitute will be found in sound
turfy loam and leaf-mould, in about equal propor-
‘tions, for the lower part of the bed, the pure peat
‘being reserved for the uppermost six or eight inches.
In fact, the uppermost layer may consist of one-half
peat, and sharp sand and leaf-mould in equal quanti-
‘ties, well mixed together, and many plants will thrive
in it. For other plants for which peat is indispens-
-able it must be provided if they are to be grown; and
‘the system of pockets already described will enable
the cultivator to isolate such peat-loving plants, and
secure the proper soil for them at the smallest pos-
‘sible cost, by limiting its use to those pockets where
these plants are to be grown.

As already indicated, it will be invariably ad-
~vantageous to place the bog-bed on a lower level
‘than the surrounding surface, so as to utilise to
tthe utmost all moisture derived from natural

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

or artificial sources. ‘The employment of rock
for making pockets and ledges, and to isolate the
plants from one another, is strongly to be recom-
mended, and the rock may be so introduced as to aid
in producing artistic effects, as well as providing
secure foothold when weeding or planting has to be
done. Some of the Gentians will thrive in such a
bed, so as to repay all the trouble and expense in-
curred; indeed, Gentiana bavarica and our lovely
British G. Pnewmonanthe (the Marsh Gentian) will
thrive only in such positions. G. acaulis (Gentia-
nella) planted at the edge of the bog-bed will thrive
much better than on the ordinary rockery. Our
common Buckbean (Menyanthes trifoliata), the Butter-
worts (Pinguicula), the Grass of Parnassus (Parnas-
sia palustris), the Sundews (Drosera), many Orchises,
Cypripediums, &c., are mentioned here, to indicate
the class of lovely plants for which bog-beds must
be provided if it is desired to grow them in our
gardens in the highest perfection. Along with these
plants may be most appropriately intermingled Irises,
Narcissi, and many other interesting bulbous plants,
which thrive in a moist peaty bottom. In the im-
mediate neighbourhood of the bog many plants will
thrive better than elsewhere, for though not needing
as much moisture as the natural occupants of bogs,
they seem to benefit by the constant presence of
moisture in the air. In the list which will follow,
these will be indicated by some such phrase as
“Plant near bog-bed.”

Alpines in Ordinary Borders. — There are
many positions in gardens other than on rockeries
where some Alpine plants, and among them not a few
of great beauty, may be properly planted, and where
they will keep in health, andthrive. These positions
will be in the very front line of the mixed border, in
full exposure, away from the larger and coarser
plants, and where they will not be liable to’be over-
grown. All the hardier kinds, which grow freely,
are suitable for such positions, and will certainly
adorn them. The dwarf hardy Heaths, many of the
Saxifrages, Sedums, and Sempervivums, the Forget-
me-nots, Saponarias, Hepaticas, Silenes, the dwarf
Campanulas, and many others, may be used to form
the most charming of front rows in the choicest and
most select mixed borders. The larger and more
vigorous kinds such as the Sun-roses (Helianthemeumns)
will find congenial positions on raised sunny banks,
fringing drives, and on the margins of shrubbery
borders, where they are not overshadowed by trees
and shrubs.

Alpines on Window-sills.—Where a broad

window-sill—especially a stone one—exists, there,
particularly if fully exposed to the south, any of the

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING.

succulent plants which are found growing naturally
in dry rocky spots might be planted with every an-
ticipation of success. A dainty use of bits of rock,
peat, and loam, sufficient to afford a foot-hold, and a
charming outside window garden might be secured
with little or no trouble.

Reserve Plants.—It will be advisable to grow
at least one or two plants of each of the rarer kinds
in pots, so that protection may be given to them in
severe winters, and aspecies which may be killed on
the rockery may be kept alive in the reserve garden,
to supply its place on the return of spring. It is
also a source of great pleasure when a friend sees
some plant on the rockery which he much admires, to
beable, on his departure, to surprise him with a dupli-
cate plant in a pot, which he may carry home with
him. In this way we have set many friends growing
choice Alpines who previously had never done so.
It is also advisable to grow any new plant, coming to
hand in a small or delicate state, for a time in a pot,
until it is thoroughly established, before placing it
permanently in the rockery. The reserve garden of
Alpines should consist for the most part of these
plants in pots, duplicates of established plants, and
plants on trial, or in a state of preparation for plant-
ing out.

If possible, two shallow frames should be set
apart for the reserve Alpine garden, one of them
fully exposed, the other facing north. The bed of
the frame should be covered with four to six inches
of finely-sifted coal-ashes, and on this a layer of sand
or cocoa-nut fibre should be placed. The pots con-
taining the Alpines should be plunged in the porous
material up to the rim, so as to minimise evaporation,
and maintain a uniform temperature about the roots.
Small pots should be used for economy of space, and
to prevent over-potting. The frame placed in the
north aspect will be found most serviceable for the
protection of plants during the winter, when the
lights should be kept on only during severe weather,
at which times the further protection of a mat or
litter should be provided, and kept on until a thaw
has set in thoroughly. Whenever the weather is
mild, plenty of fresh air should be admitted, and all
decaying leaves carefully removed. The use of a few
fragments of stone on the surface of the pots, on
which the plants may repose, will in many instances
be found conducive to their well-being, and often
prevent their damping off. The soil to be used in
potting should be such as is usually employed for
small pot plants, consisting of good turfy soil, sweet
and well-decomposed leaf-mould, and sand in equal
quantities, well mixed together. A few fragments
of porous stone may be judiciously inserted in each
pot. The young plant should then be firmly fixed in

157

the centre, carefully avoiding the least injury to the,
delicate roots. The same plan will serve for newly-
rooted cuttings, offsets, seedlings, and divisions of
full-sized roots. The propagation of the choice
Alpines in these several ways will be found a very in-
teresting occupation, and the stock of tiny treasures
will soon increase, so as to provide for the wants of.
the cultivator to fill blanks and extensions of the
rockery, and permit of presents to friends.

How to Form a Collection of Alpines.—
The quickest way is to buy such plants as are wanted.
from one of the many firms who now offer these
plants for sale in pots. Several houses, who may be
relied on to supply good plants, true to name, adver-
tise collections of one hundred varieties at prices
varying from 25s. to 60s., according to the plants
selected, and smaller collections at slightly higher
prices; another plan is to obtain from one’s friends.
surplus plants; or, thirdly, to combine the two.
methods. Raising from seed those kinds of which
seeds are obtainable will take time, but when success-
ful will be found a very pleasurable pursuit. It will
be unnecessary to dwell on the way to do this, as full
instructions are given in other pages about seed-
sowing and after-treatment of seedlings, to which we
refer our readers.

How to Plant Alpines.—Being generally
furnished with plenty of roots, the operation of
planting Alpines is not by any means difficult, espe-
cially when the plants have simply to be transferred.
from pots to the rockery. The chief point is to plant
firmly, but in doing so to avoid pressing roughly
about the collar of the plant, or the roots will wholly
or in part be broken off or bruised, especially in the
case of the more delicate subjects. After the plant
is firmly fixed in its new home, and cannot be moved.
without considerable effort, fill the surface up to
the collar of the plant with nice potting material, in
which there is plenty of leaf-mould and sand, and if
the weather is dry, give a good watering from a fine-
rosed watering-can. <A day or two afterwards loosen
the surface soil with a small hand-fork, and ascertain
that the plant is firmly fixed, or if it is not, make it
so. Never plant Alpines when the ground is saturated
with moisture or works heavily.

The After-treatment of Alpines.—When a
rockery has been planted a few months it will be ad-
visable to examine every part of it, and, where neces-
sary, to give a slight surface dressing of such potting
material as is mentioned in the preceding paragraph.
In the case of plants which raise their collars every
season, this top-dressing is an absolute necessity, unless
the plant be taken up bodily and re-planted. Many

158 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. ;

of the Primulas and some
of the Campanulas require
to be re-planted annually,
or they will become leggy.
Remove all past flowering
stems promptly, unless it is
desired to save seed. Take
care that the stronger-grow-
ing plants do not encroach
mpon the weaker growers.
We once lost the loveliest
clump of Gentiana verna we
evel saw in a garden, by
the rapid growth of a mossy
Saxifrage during a few
weeks’ absence from home.
It is simply astonishing how
soon ‘the work of extermi-
nation is done. Of course
the best plan is to care-
fully avoid placing rapid
growers in the neighbour-
hood of any of the less
robust plants. During the
spring and summer months
pay great attention to water-
ing, so as to insure that no
plant suffers from drought.
If a spell of hot, dry
weather sets in, it will be
a wise precaution to give
a surfacing of cocoa-nut fibre
after watering. This will pre-
serve the efficacy of the water-
ing for a considerable time.
Keep a sharp look-out after slugs
and predaceous insects. Whena
plant has overgrown its position,
reduce its proportions with
promptitude, or it will hurt its
neighbours. Never allow weeds
any quarter. If these directions
are intelligently followed, it will
be found that a large proportion
of the Alpine plants of temperate
climes may be successfully grown
in most English gardens.

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS.

By Dr. Maxwett T, Masters, F.R.S.

NUTRITION: THE LEAVES AND WHAT THEY DO.
HE most important organs of the plant, so far as
its nutrition is concerned, are the roots and the
leaves, The roots, as we have seen, take from the

|

Fig. 42.—Simple Toothed Leaf of the Lime-tree,

showing the stalk and the blade.

Fig. 43.—Divided or Lobed Leaf of
Bauhinia,

soil the greater part of the
water required by the plant,
they absorb the mineral
and earthy matters, espe-
cially the nitrates. Their
chief, and sometimes only,
field of operation is the soil.
All this has been told in
preceding chapters. The
leaves take from the air the
greater part of the gases
required to feed and build
up the plant, and possibly
some of the water. In addi-
tion to this, the leaf is the
great laboratory, or factory,
in which the substances
taken in by the root, as well
as by its own exertions, are
blended and modified so as
ultimately to serve as food
tor the plant, to build up its
‘ gubstance, fabricate its cell-
walls and its protoplasm,
form and store away the
starch and other ingredients
which render the organs of
reserve so important to the
plant. In doing all this it
absorbs some gases and gives
out others; it throws off
superfluous water and, under cer-
tain conditions, absorbs it. Much
of its work can only be accom-
plished .under the influence of
solar light. The work that it
does in common with the root and
other organs of the plant it can
do irrespective of light, provided
heat, moisture, and other condi-
tions be suitable; but the special
work of the leaf, which we shall
have to consider in this section,
can only be done when the leaf is
exposed to light, and what is true
of the leaf is true of all parts of
plants that are green in colour,
such as the young shoots or the
unripe fruit.

The Nature of Leaves.—In botanical lan-
guage, everything that bears a leaf is a stem or

a branch of a stem. The root is not.a stem, because

it bears no leaves; the tuber of a Potato or of a
Jerusalem Artichoke is a stem, because it does bear
leaves—-not necessarily fully-developed leaves, for
they may be mere unformed scale-leaves. The

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS. 159

Jeaves, whether perfectly developed or mere scales,
occur at regular definite intervals called “ nodes.”
The nodes, therefore, are the places where the leaves
spring from the stem, and anything that comes from
those nodes (not being a stem or a branch) is a leaf.
Speaking generally,
and disregarding
exceptions, a leaf is
a flat plate con-
tinuous with the
bark of the shoot,
and having an upper
surface looking to
the heavens, a lower
surface, usually
duller in colour,
turned in the oppo-
site direction. It
may be “sessile,”
when it springs
from the stem with-
out any intervening
stalk; or it is pro-
vided with a ‘“‘pe-
tiole” or leaf-stalk,
which separates the
blade or flat part of
the leaf from the

stem — the “entire,” or
leaf - stalk in which the
‘being inter- margin may
mediate, not be variously
only in posi- indented,
tion but also but always
in structure to a very
and = func- slight ex-
tion, be- tent, so that
tween stem the sub-
and leaf. In stance is still
form, size, undivided
and appear- (Fig. ; 42);
ance leaves (2) divided
vary almost leaves, where
beyond de- the blade of
scription. the leaf is .
‘These varia- branched or
tions are of : : ve lobed in va-
two. Inds: Fig. 45.—Compound (Pinnate) Leaf of Robinia. rious ways
those which and to a

are, as it were, mere stages or phases of growth, and
as such may occur in all plants, and those which are
peculiar to certain plants and serve as distinguishing
characteristics—such as the cylindrical hollow leaves
of an Onion, or the pinnate foliage of a Rose. For
an account of the principal forms of leaves reference
must be made to botanical text-books.

Fig. 44.—Partite Leaf of Hemp.

Forms of Leaves.—The functions of a fully-
developed leaf are essentially the same whatever its
form, and therefore in this place it is not necessary to
enter into much detail concerning the myriad shapes
they assume.

For our purpose it is enough to know
that some leaves,
such as scale-leaves,
are imperfectly de-
veloped or degene-
rate organs, of great
interest morpholo-
gically and histori-
cally, but of no
special use to the
plant; while other
leaves, despite their
variations in dif-
ferent cases, never-
theless fulfil the
same duties. So far
as form goes, it is
enough for us here
to recognise the
three main groups
of leaves: (1) simple
leaves, when they
are in one piece,
which may be quite

various extent (Figs. 43, 44); and (3) compound
leaves, where the branching of the blade of the leaf
goes to such an extent that each subdivision is com-
pletely distinct from its neighbour, and generally
“articulated,” that is, separated from the common
stalk by a distinct constriction or joint (Fig. 45).
Of these three types the modifications are infinite.

'

160

The “Insertion” of
Leaves.—The mode in
which leaves spring from
the stem is also a matter
of primary importance to
the botanist, and it has
also a distinct physiolo-
gical significance. Leaves
are said to be “ opposite ”
when they spring from
opposite sides of the stem
at the same level; “ verti-
cillate,” or ‘ whorled,”
when aring of leaves start
from one point, so as to

‘ form a “whorl” (Fig. 46) ;
and “alternate” when
they spring from different
sides of the stem, one
above another at different
levels, that is, as in the
Elm or Peach (Fig. 47).
So, too, the leaves are in
some cases very densely
packed, as in a Plantain or
Cabbage, when the “in-
tervals” or spaces be-
tween the nodes are un-
developed or loosely
scattered; usually they
are more or less arranged
in spiral lines,

Adaptation to Pur-
pose.—It would not be
needful to mention these
details here were it not
for the circumstance that
the form and disposition
of the leaves have a dis-
tinct connection with the
work they have to do, with
the necessity for literally
“catching sunbeams,” or
availing themselves of the
fresh air, and, moreover,
that they are often the
result not only of adapta-
tion to particular pur-
poses, but the outcome of
a compromise in virtue of
which each leaf does its
best for itself, whilst re-
specting the rights of its
neighbour. All these
variations in size, that

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Fig. 46.—Whorled Leaves of Oleander.

Hy A
Ho ff
Wi y

i

Fig. 47.—Branch of Peach, showing alternate
simple leaves.

amazing diversity of form
and appearance, all those
twists and turns, those
upward movements, those
sidelong motions, have
each a distinct purpose
and significance. They
are not mere caprices, but
they represent the strug-
gles of the plant for light,
air, and supremacy, its
conflicts and rivalries with
its neighbours; or, if in
some cases this adaptation.
of means to ends is not
clearly marked out under
existing circumstances, we
may be sure that it was
so once, and that what
we see now are historical
survivals from a period
when these matters had a
real significance.

Internal Structure.
—In like manner, the in-
ternal microscopic struc-
ture of the leaves shows a
similar adaptation to pur-
pose, and it is often easy
to see a co-relation be-
tween the structure of the
leaf, and the disposition
of its elements, with the
conditions under which
it grows. The leaf of
a plant ‘growing in water
(Fig. 48) is very different
in structure from that
of an evergreen exposed
to full sunshine on a
hill-side, or a succulent
plant on a rock. The
elements are, indeed,
much the same, but they
are differently arranged,
and their degree of de-
velopment is modified ac-
cording to circumstances.
For these reasons we can
here only give a general
statement with reference
to leaf-structure, referring
the reader to ordinary
text-books for fuller in-
formation, and curnestly

gh < 9 A laa

i a

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS. 161

advising those who have the opportunity to study
for themselves the remarkable variations and adapta-
tions of leaf-structure to the circumstances or ‘ en-
vircnment”’ under which they grow. In particular
the comparative study of the structure of the leaves

the leaf is alike on both sides, and instead of the leaf
being placed more or less horizontally, so as to catch
the light on its upper surface, it is then often placed
as in Gladiolus, more or less vertically, so that both
sides get an equal chance of exposure.

‘When, on the

Fig. 48 —Floating and ‘Submerged Leaves of Ranunculus aquatilis.

of epiphytal Orchids may
be commended to micro-
scopic observers, as not only
intrinsically interesting, but
as likely to lead to important
cultural suggestions.
Speaking broadly, a leaf
consists of a flat plate of
cellular tissue, traversed by
a framework of wood-cells
and vessels, and covered on
all sides by 2 skin or epi-
derm. Very generally the
cells constituting the sub-

{_¥33 Ree Sy AW a
FOOMDoOMANooo

contrary, the colour of the
leaf is markedly very dif-
ferent on the upper and
lower surfaces respectively,
then it frequently happens
that the “chlorophyll” is
specially collected in a
special layer of cells just
beneath the upper epiderm,
and appropriately termed
“palisade’? cells, from their
resemblance to park palings
(Fig. 49).

G

stance of the leaf are dif-
ferent in form and size in
different portions of the
same leaf. Thus _ those
near the upper surface—the one most exposed
to the light—are more densely packed, with few or
no interspaces between them, and with more green
matter (chlorophyll) in their interior, The cells
near the lower surface of the leaf are usually more
irregular in shape, more loosely aggregated, and
with less green matter. When the leaf-structure is
uniform on both surfaces, or nearly so, the colour of

35

Fig. 49.—Section of a Leaf, showing the epidermal,
palisade, and branching Cells (innpnitied?,

The Framework of
the Leaf.—As regards
the framework of “ veins,”
or “ribs,” or ‘nerves,’ it
is first of all necessary to disabuse the reader’s mind
of any idea that these organs have anything more
than a remote analogy with the animal struc-
tures so named. They consist of wood-cells, which
serve to stiffen and uphold the blade of the leaf,
and of “ vessels’? of various kinds, which transmit
fluid and air to and from the stem and leaf.
The number and arrangement of these “ribs”

162

vary greatly in different cases, and these diver-
sities serve, together with those connected with the
shape and disposition of the leaf, as means of dis-
crimination between different plants or groups of
plants. It must suffice here to give one illustration
only. In the majority of Dicotyledonous plants,
those in which the seedling plant has two cotyledons,
the group comprising most of our trees and shrubs,
the ribs of the leaf, or their ultimate branches, are
arranged in a reticulate or net-like fashion, so that
there are angular spaces between them. In the
larger number of Monocotyledons (Palms, Lilies,
Grasses, &c.) the ultimate veins are not netted, but
somewhat straight and nearly parallel, so that the
interspaces are either long and narrow, or if angu-
lar, then four-sided, not polygonal. Even in cases
where from the thickness of the cellular tissue, or the
opacity of the epiderm, the veins are not readily
conspicuous, the arrangement can be determined by
simply tearing the leaf. Where the veins run in a
nearly straight direction, as in an Iris-leaf, for
instance, the edges of a tear will be nearly straight ;
but where they form net-like meshes, as ina Cab-
bage-leaf, then the edges of the tear will be angular
and irregular.

The Skin of the Leaf.—It remains now to
speak of the epidermis or skin. This, like the
other parts of the leaf, is subject to variation in

Fig. 50.--Epidermis of a Leaf (magnified) showing Stomata.

-aifferent plants, and it is usually somewhat different
on the upper and lower surfaces respectively. It
most generally consists of a layer of flattened cells,
destitute of chlorophyll. Those on the upper sur-
face are closely packed, with no interspaces between
them. Those on the lower surface are interrupted by
a greater or less number, sometimes by an immensely
large number, of pores called “stomata” (Fig. 50).
These are apertures communicating with the outer
air, and affording access to the interior spongy por-

OASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

tions of the leaf, thus allowing of the passage into
or out of the leaf, according to circumstances, of
gases or liquids, The entry or exit is regulated by
two or more “ guard-cells,” which encompass the
aperture and close it or open it, according to circum-
stances. The guard-cells are enabled to do their
work by differences in their degree of fulness; if
full they are distended and the aperture is closed ; if
relatively empty, the orifice is unobstructed. In the
case of water-plants there are no stomata, at any
rate in the submerged portions. In thick-rinded,
succulent plants, natives of dry and hot countries,
where evaporation would be excessive were there not
means to prevent it, there are few or no stomata,
In cases where, as in the Iris, Gladiolus, or Pink,
the leaf is of the same colour on both surfaces, there
the number of these pores is about the same on both
sides.

These few illustrations must suffice to show how
the form, arrangement, and internal structure of
leaves are co-related to the duties they have to per-
form, and to the circumstances under which their
work has to be accomplished. The young gardener
should lose no opportunity of familiarising himself
with details of this character, which will furnish
him, if properly used, with a clue to successful man-
agement more reliable than any book knowledge or
precept.

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.

By D. T. Fisu, assisteD BY WILLIAM CARMICHAEL.

THE APPLE,

ITHOUT disparaging the worth or luscious-
ness of any other fruit, this is without
doubt the mosf valuable of all our hardy fruits. It
is likewise so popular and universally esteemed as to
merit the distinction of being called the national
fruit of Great Britain and Ireland. It merits this
distinction on the double ground of its popularity
and parentage. The Wild Crab (Pyrus malus), the
not very remote progenitor of our cultivated varie-
ties, is indigenous to Britain and large portions
of the cooler parts of Europe, and our best Apples
are but highly-developed Crabs — marvellous ex-
amples of the improvement of species by the gradual

processes of evolution and cultivation.

The popularity of the Apple is so great that it is
hardly an exaggeration to affirm that every one cats
Apples, either raw, cooked, or preserved ; and should
any decline to eat them, they probably drink them
in the form of cider, wine, or brandy. Apple wine,
however, has never become popular, though cider
kas become a formidable rival to, and elmost a com-

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.

plete substitute for, beer in the Southern counties of
England. Brandy can also be distilled from Apples.
Bread has likewise been made of Apples, about
one-third of them added to two-thirds of flour
making a supporting and appetising loaf. When
the price of flour is very low, Apple bread is not
likely to be largely patronised; but the fact of
Apple bread being possible may well give additional
emphasis to the fact that Apples are sufficiently nu-
tritive to merit the designation of food. So soon as
public opinion grasps this fact, the consumption of
Apples will be indefinitely extended, and the area of
their cultivation proportionately augmented.

Even now home production does not by any
means keep pace with consumption, and our Apple
bill with America and other foreign countries pro-
bably averages something like a million a year. Our
annual imports of Apples as such are annually in-
creasing, while large quantities are also imported
in the form of dried Apples, chips, rings, jellies,
sweets, perfumes, &c.; and it seems almost a reflec-
4ion on the energy and skill of British cultivators
that not a small proportion of our finest Apples are
received from America, though the Apple is not
indigenous to that country. Not a few of our
consumers prefer the Newton Pippin to the far-
famed Ribston, the best of all English Apples.
Like many good things, however, the latter has
several drawbacks, the worst of which is its prone-
ness or liability to canker, and its slow and rather
uncertain bearing in a young state. Its American
rival also far excels it in fertility and the durability
_ of individual trees. The latter, however, is now of
less moment, as by the modern and more expert
means of propagation and cultivation trees are
brought into bearing at two years old from the bud,
and can be readily increased to any extent. Hence
the length of life of individual trees is yearly be-
coming a matter of less moment. Though some of
the hardier wilding Apples may live in thriving
and fruitful conditions for a century or more, Apple-
trees having even been heard of three centuries old,
the average duration of individual trees would not
greatly exceed a quarter of a century, the cultivated
modern Apple-tree being by no means distinguished
by longevity. Fruitful trees are also so much more
easily and cheaply obtained, that so soon as the
trees pass their best, it is more profitable to remove
them and plant afresh, than to adopt any of the
possible, but somewhat tedious, processes of resusci-
tation. Few things are more unsightly or unprofit-
able than is the retention of Apples or other fruit-
trees in a state of exhaustion; and one of the most
depressing sights in the South and West of England
is that of the many orchards and fruit gardens in a
condition of dilapidation. It is hoped that all this

163

may speedily be changed, and either the old Apple
orchards and gardens may be replanted, or new ones
formed, and that every amateur, mechanic, and cot-
tage gardener may grow one or more Apple-trees.
The Apple might also often be substituted for
other and common trees in belts and hedges, thus
adding greatly to the beauty of the landscape, and
indefinitely increasing the home supply of this most
useful of all our hardy fruits.

The hardiness of the Apple is one of its greatest
merits. Its constitution and power of endurance are
greatly influenced by culture and climate, and much
may be done to command success by a careful selec-
tion of varieties that experiences have proved to do
best in given localities. Writing in general terms,
the Apple also blooms later than either the Pear,
Plum, Peach, Apricot, or Cherry. Hence it has a
better chance of escaping the spring frosts; and it
does. For example, the year 1884 was virtually
Plumless, and gave us a very scant supply of Pears,
while there was a good half-crop of Apples, and in
many districts a full one. Greater immunity from
the disastrous effects of spring frosts will probably be
yet enjoyed as the raisers of new Apples develop
new races from such abnormally late-blooming
Apples as the Court Pendu Plat, which is dormant
as December while most Apples have set their fruit.
However, our present races of Apples are sufficiently
hardy to yield average crops over the greater part of
Great Britain and Ireland in ordinary seasons. Of
course the climate varies widely over such a wide
area, and many of the Apples that ripen well in the
open air in the southern and warmer portion of the
country, need the help of walls to perfect them in
the North of England and Scotland. Even in
Devonshire, however, some of the finest Apples,
such as the Ribston Pippin, are fostered into larger
size and higher quality by the aid of walls; and
no doubt not a few of our finer Apples, such as
the Ribston Pippin, Calville Blanche, the Melon,
Mother, Northern Spy, Allen’s Everlasting, and
other Pippins, Pearmains, Scarlet and other Non-
pareils, and Cox’s Orange Pippin, well deserve a
wall in cool localities. Such and other of the finer
Apples would pay far better than many of the Pears
and Plums that occupy, to little purpose or profit, so
much wall-space in climates unfavourable to them.

PROPAGATION OF THE APPLE.

The Apple may be propagated in various ways,
viz., by seeds, cuttings, layers, suckers, buds, scions.
Practically, however, it is propagated by seeds and
scions—that is, by grafting. However, as several of
the other methods are practicable, and some oi them
are largely employed to produce stocks on which to

164 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

mount the more choice Apples for garden cultiva-
tion, it may be useful to take the least important
methods of propagation first.

Propagation of Apples by Cuttings.—
Most varieties of Apples may be increased in this
way, the different sorts, however, varying widely in
their time of rooting and the percentage of success.
A few sorts, such as the Keswick and some other
Codlins, root readily, and the Stubbard and creeping
Apples almost as freely as Gooseberry or Currant
cuttings. The majority of varieties, however, root
slowly and with considerable uncertainty.

The cuttings may be inserted in the open air
either in November or February, the former being
the best season. The more free-rooting sorts may
be placed on a shady border; those that root more
slowly and shyly should be placed in sandy soil and
covered with hand-glasses, and kept closely covered
till rooted, which will probably not be till June or
July. The glasses should be shaded during bright
sunshine. So soon as rooted, gradually remove the
lights or eloches, and expose the plants to the open
air. Early in November transplant into nursery
tows, fifteen inches asunder, and three or six from
plant to plant.

There is yet another method of rooting Apple-
cuttings. This consists in placing the cuttings in a
bottom heat of 65° or so in February, keeping the
top at least 20° cooler. The heat will stimulate
vital action at the base of the cuttings, causing
them to callus, and therefore form roots. By this
method much time is saved, and’ the rooting is not
only more rapid, but more sure. Cuttings, however,
to be thus treated to heat, should be removed from
the trees in the November previous, and if made at
the same time they will root all the sooner in con-
sequence.

This brings us to the sort of Apple-cuttings most
likely to throw out roots. From six to eight inches
long is a handy length, and each cutting should. be
heeled off—that is, it should be the bottom part of
the current year’s shoot, or of a small shoot, and a
base or heel of older wood, half an inch or an inch in
area, should be separated with it. If the separation
is effected in a business-like way, the cutting, so far
as its base is concerned, is perfectly made in its re-
moval from the parent tree. Rather weakly and
horizontal or pendulous shoots should be chosen in
preference to stronger, vertical, or more succulent
ones. Disbud the cutting of all buds excepting
two, or at most three, at its upper end. If too long,
the top of the cutting may be removed with a short
clean cut, and from three to four inches of its base
inserted in sandy soil. A pinch of pure sand under
and around the base facilitates the emission of roots.

The firmer the soil is pressed around the base of the
cutting, the more likely it is to root. Water the
cuttings home after insertion, and-let the surface
dry a little before covering if hand-glasses are put
over them. They will not be likely to need any
more water till the spring.

Layers. — This is a simple and sure method,
largely resorted to in the trade for the raising
of immense quantities of plants for stocks. This
is one of the oldest and most successful methods
of propagation. The practical difficulty in rela-
tion to it is that, excepting in the case of dwarf
varieties, such as the Paradise and other slender-
growing sorts, it is a difficult matter to get the
branches of Apple-trees down to the ground. The
older cultivators tried to evade this difficulty by
lifting pots of soil up to the branches to be layered ;
but as these frequently got baked up for lack of
water, many layers thus came to grief. The intro-
duction of horizontal or ground cordons is, however,
likely to give « fresh impetus to the layering of
Apple-trees. These being carried along at distances
ranging from six inches to eighteen inches from the
ground, nothing can be easier than to dip down the
ends of the shoots, cut partially through, form a
half-circular heel, place a wedge in to keep open,
peg down to keep steady, cover with earth, and
wait till rooted.

Properly manipulated, the layered Apple-branches
are bound to root, for the layerant has a double
string to his bow; he has converted his branch
into a sort of cutting (see Rose-layer, page 216,
Vol. I.; and that of the Apple is just the same);
and ‘he forces the tree to sustain the layer until
it forms independent roots. "When this happens
he severs the connection and removes the layer, or
rather a well-rooted Apple-tree.

I adopted a plan some years ago to make Apple
cordons self-supporting, as well as more ornamental.
Another and rather unexpected result followed.
Where the branches rested on the ground it was
found that several of the trees emitted roots and
formed circular cordons of a very unique character,

Now that own-root Roses are all the rage, it is
possible that a growing demand may arise for own-
root Apple and other fruit-trees. This would get
rid of all the complications incident to foreign
stocks, and seems, in some varieties at least, to aug-
ment fertility to a greater extent than even the
French Paradise or Doucin stocks. Amateurs, me-
chanics, and cottagers, who are often very enthusi-
astic about local varieties, and wax eloquent on the
merits of particular Apple-trees, might make sure of
perpetuating their favourite trees by propagating
them from cuttings or layers. Possibly, too, plants

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.

thus originated might prove the best for pot-culture
and the most prolific for the smallest forms of the
cordon.

Suckers.—As comparatively few Apples throw
up suckers, it follows that this method of propa-
gation can be but seldom resorted to in private
gardens. There is also a well-grounded preju-
dice against the use of suckers, even if obtainable,
for own-root Apple-trees. Plants raised in this way
never seem to rise above their origin, and they
often finally lose their tops in a perfect thicket of
suckers, like producing like, to the injury and
final destruction of trees raised thus. But the
tendency of a few Codlins, the Creeping Apple,
Burrknot, Stubbard, Paradise, and a few other
varieties to produce suckers renders them valuable
for stocks, and causes them to be grown for that
purpose. It must also be borne in mind that any
suckers thrown up from most cultivated Apples would
be those of the wilding or other stocks, and not of the
Apples themselves. Suckers are also a signal of
distress to show that something is amiss with the
tree ; and hence, in removing them, a thorough ex-
amination should take place, that might often result
in the saving or resuscitation of the tree smothered
with suckers at the roots.

Budding.—This system is seldom adopted with
Apples, though it is just as practicable with them
as with Pears, or Peaches either for that matter.
Still, fashion rules in these matters almost as
despotically as within the domain of society and
among ourselves; and for this reason chiefly, and
also because Apples take so readily and are pro-
pagated with such facility by scions, budding is
but little practised.

There is also another reason. Apple-buds are, as
a rule, considerably later than those of Roses, to take
the most familiar example. The buds of different
varieties are likewise more irregular in their season
of being sufficiently plumped up for budding. But

these are mere matters of detail, and by seizing the -

most favourable condition of stock and bud, Apples
may be propagated by budding exactly in the
same way, and almost as easily, though not quite so
successfully, as Roses. Another advantage of bud-
ding is that the stocks may be worked in a smaller
state than it would be practicable to graft them.
The wood also heals sooner, the union is more com-
plete, and there is less liability to canker at the
point of union—a point of considerable moment in
varieties such as the Ribston Pippin, specially liable
to this dire disease.

Propagation by Seeds.—It may seem like a
digression to leap back from the budding of Apples

165

to the raising of them from seeds, as grafting seems
to come naturally and logically after budding.
It is obvious, however, that stocks must precede
grafting, and as seedlings form the major portion of
these, it is needful to provide the stocks before
Apples can be propagated by scions. No doubt a
good many stocks are provided by the three means
of propagation already adverted to—cuttings, layers,
and suckers—and some of these may have been used
for budding; but seedling Crabs, Cider, and other
Apples and Paradises furnish the great trade sup-
plies of stocks, The raising of seedling Apples is
also a compound means of propagation. It fur-
nishes stocks for the scions of the best cultivated
varieties, and it is almost the only means of origina-
‘ting new and superior varieties. Sports—that is,
bud variations—are another method; but, so far as
we know, the sporting power of Apples is far more
limited than that of most other plants. Of course,
should any such sports different or superior to good
cultivated sorts appear, they should be carefully pre-
served and industriously propagated by some of the
means already indicated, or by grafting.

In attempting to raise new and superior varieties of
Apples from seeds, not only should the best sorts be
chosen, but the finest examples of the best varieties.
For instance, all Ribston Pippins or Cox’s Orange
Pippins are not equally perfect, and only the very
finest fruit of these or any other first-rate sort
should be saved for seed. Again, were these two
Apples crossed, a better strain of Apples might be ex-
pected from the seeds than if either were sown pure.
Numerous as are our Apples of good eating and
cooking qualities, there is no reason to suppose that
the vein of improvement is as yet worked out, or
that the highest quality has yet been reached.
Such distinct Apples as the Golden Pippin, Ribston
Pippin, Devonshire Quarrenden, Scarlet and other
Nonpareils, Golden Russet, Golden Rennette, Clay-
gate and other Pearmains, might be crossed in all
directions with others of the most opposite character,
and even with culinary Apples, to add to their per-
centage of sugar or their size. In many cases this
might be done without losing their briskness. Of
course, the crossing must be done while the Apples
are in flower, and the stamens of the seed-bear-
ing Apples should be removed, and pollen from the
male parent be placed on the stigma. To insure
any certainty, however, the stamens should be re-
moved and the flower protected from bees, &c., be-
fore it is thoroughly opened, and for some days after
the foreign pollen is applied. "Without these pre-
cautions, which, though formidable on paper, are
simple in practice, the flies, bees, and breezes render
the cross-brecder’s efforts so much labour lost. A
record of the crosses should be kept, as furnishing

166 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

data for a pedigree book. The latter is invaluable,
as furnishing a key to constitution and quality, and
adds immensely to the interest and pleasure, and. it
may be profit, of raising new and superior Apples
from seeds.

The sowing of these carefully prepared seeds
need differ but little from those of the more com-
mon varieties for stocks, but the treatment of the
seedlings must be widely different. There are two
ways of hurrying forward seedling Apples to prove
themselves as speedily as possible; one, and the
most obvious, is to grow them as swiftly as possible
in fairly good, but not over-rich, soil, leaving the
seedlings full length and size till they fruit. The
other and the swifter method is to graft the top of
the seedlings so soon as large enough to form a
scion on to a French Paradise or other dwarfing
stock, or into a fertile tree in full bearing. The
scion will be so far controlled by the fertile stock as
to be compelled to fruit considerably sooner than if
left on its own roots. There is yet another means of
forcing fertility. Root-prune the seedlings some-
what severely at the end of the first or second year’s
growth, leaving the tops intact. This severe check
will throw the top into fruit. These first fruits
may not form a fair test of size, but they will give a
fair measure of quality, and as such will form a
guide to the selection of the more promising seed-
lings. .

A rough-and-ready selection is often made from
the character of the seedlings and the size and form
of the leaves. Seedlings with thorny stems and those
with narrow and sharp-pointed leaves are mostly
worthless. The broader, shorter, and rounder the
leaves, the better the prospect of quality among the
seedling Apples. These, however, are mere prelimi-
nary tests; the others already pointed out are more
trustworthy. Of course, the seedlings not good
enough to grow may still be headed back and grafted
or budded in the usual way.

The seeds of Crabs, Codlins, Nonsuches, &c., and
Cider Apples are those most used for raising stocks.
Careful growers select the finest Crabs, and those
from the North of Europe were at one time preferred
to those of English growth, as being more likely to
impart vigour and hardiness to the constitution of
the Apples worked on them. Be that as it may,
there can be no question that stocks and trees alike
might be considerably improved were more attention
bestowed on the selection of Apple-seeds for stocks.
The refuse of the cider-press is hardly the most pro-
mising field for hunting for prime seed for Apple
stocks. By sowing the finer seeds of our best
culinary and dessert Apples, the stocks would be
more closely assimilated to the character of the
scions worked on them, and the permanent trees

would probably be invigorated and improved in
consequence of a more discriminating selection of
seeds for stocks.

Seed-saving and Sowing.—This is done by
wholesale and retail. _Those whose object is to
raise improved varieties from seeds mostly sow the
seeds so soon as the Apples are eaten, or very soon
afterwards. Such small sowings are better made in
pots. Cover the seeds half or three-quarters of an
inch deep with light soil, and place in a cool house
or frame. In any case the seeds of Apples should
not be kept out of the ground more than a few
months, as they soon lose their vitality. Time may
be saved in the growth of the seedlings, and their
greater safety insured, by sowing in pots in the
autumn or early spring, carefully numbering or
naming each sort at the time of sowing. So soon as
large enough to handle, pot off singly and nurse up
under glass until well established, when they may
be planted out; or the seedlings may be grown wu
pots in the orchard or green-house until proved.

The raising of seeds wholesale for stocks is per-
formed in a more rough-and-ready manner. ‘The
seeds collected from the cider and vinegar presses are
washed and dried, and sown in the open air so soon
in the spring as practicable. They may either be
sown in three or four-feet beds, or in drills about
nine inches apart and an inch deep. If the former
they must be covered with an inch or so of fine soil.
The soil in which the seeds are sown should also be
light and rich, a sandy loam well dressed a few
months before with well-decomposed manure being
the most suitable. The sweeter, finer, and within
certain limits the richer the ground, the faster and
stronger will the seedlings grow.

The seeds should be sown thinly, as, if of fair
quality, almost every one will grow, and overcrowd-
ing, whether in rows or beds, is a great source ot
weakness; so injurious is it, in fact, that it is well
to thin out the smaller plants in showery weather,
and only leave the best for a crop: but it is best to
prevent overcrowding by thin seeding.

Should all go well, the seedlings will be fit for
lining out at the end of the year’s growth. The
process may be performed either in November or
February. Rows thirty inchesor a yard apart, with
the plants from fifteen to twenty inches asunder in
the rows, will afford room for their vigorous deve-
lopment to working size. Seedlings for young
standards for orchards may have wider intervals be-
tween the rows; and some, to economise space and
afford more room for working among the plants,
plant them in double rows eighteen inches apart, et
intervals of four or five feet asunder.

This, however, may be called the once-plant

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN, 167

system for stocks. Not a few transplant them
several times before finally lining them out for graft-
ing. The plants should not be beheaded when first
lined out, unless in the case of very lanky seedlings.
The top stimulates the roots, and the more of the
latter, and also of leading and lateral shoots, the
sooner the seedlings will be ready for grafting.

The time varies according to the climate, soil, and
objects for which the stocks are required. These for
standard or orchard trees will take three or four years
to reach a height of five or six feet. Some stocks
will need two or three years, whereas for dwarfs the
stocks may be grafted a year after being lined out.

Grafting.—This is the general method for pro-
pagating all the varieties of the Apple. Any of
the methods of grafting will answer for the Apple,
but in practice only two of these are much used—
crown grafting for larger stocks, and whip or splice
grafting for the raising of young trees.* In the
former from three to seven scions may be readily in-
serted into the crown of a beheaded Apple-tree ; in
the latter there is but one scion to a stock, and the
nearer these two approximate to one size, the more
certain the success, and the more perfect and com-
plete the union of scion and stock into one tree.

Four things are needful to success in grafting—a
healthy stock, a proper scion, uniting force, and
good workmanship. Sufficient has been said about
stocks. We have seen that they are raised from
cuttings, layers, suckers, or seeds. So soon as
grown to a diameter of about an inch they are fit
for grafting. To prove successful, however, they
should be vigorous, healthy, and hardy. It is this
latter quality that gives peculiar value to the wild
Crab as a stock for the Apple in the cooler parts of
Great Britain. Neither the Nonsuch, Codlin, Eng-
lish or French Paradise are so hardy as the Crab ;
hence the preference for this stock for orchards and
large trees for espaliers and walls.

The Time and Height of Heading down
Stocks.—This mav vary considerably, according to
locality. The middle of January or early in Feb-
ruary is, on the whole, the best time. It is impor-
tant to head down before the sap moves much, as
otherwise there may be a great waste of force.
Others, however, defer heading down the stocks
until the end of February or early in March, at
which time the bark will run freely, and the be-
heading and grafting may proceed abreast. As to
the height of stem left, that must be determined by

* Pending treatment under the head of Propagation,
the general nature of both these processes may be suffi-
ciently gathered from the paragraphs on grafting Roses
(p. 212, Vol. 1.)

circumstances; from six to nine inches from the
root is the best height for dwarfs. Half-standards
may have a yard of stock left, and tall orchard trees
five or six feet. Some cultivators, however, prefer
to work all their stocks low, and allow the scions to
form their own stems afterwards. It is good prac-
tice to behead the stocks within an inch or so
of a bud, as this sustains vigorous vital action at a
point where it is much needed to hasten and perfect
the union between the stock and the scion. In the
case of whip grafting it is equally important to stop
the scion to a bud at the base of the sloping cut,
and thus provide an active centre of vitality at the
crown and base of the mutilated portion of the stock.

Scions.—First of all, these should be removed
from the trees at the end of December at the latest,
and laid in the ground in single file, with just the
tips of the shoots left out. This is done to keep the
growth of the stema full month or so in arrear of
the stock, and to insure that the scions when used
shall be fully furnished with dormant and not
moving sap. To make security doubly sure on this
point, the scions should be laid in ona north border,
and left in the ground till wanted for use.

Character of Apple Scions.—Young shoots
of average size of the current year’s wood form
the most suitable size. Strong shoots, or what
the French call gourmands, are to be rejected. The
scions should also be well ripened. They may vary
in length from six inches to afoot. If, however,
suitable in other respects, the shorter almost the
better. But Apples vary very considerably in the
length of their internodes or spaces between the
buds, and it is desirable to leave two or even three
buds clear of this and above the uniting portion of
acion and stock: an average of nine inches or so
will be found convenient in practice. For crown
grafting the size of the scion is not material, but for
whip grafting the nearer the scion and stock ap-
proximate to one size the better. The middle por-
tion of the shoot has also been held to form the best
scion, and in almost all cases the base is removed
and the top cut off.

But all this care about stock and scion would fail
were there any deficiency or misplacement of uniting
force. Assuming that grafting is properly timed, a
sufficiency of vital force is insured ; but failure may
arise from misplacement of force, and hence the
very great importance of placing the inner bark or
cambium of the scion and the stock together along
several points or the whole line of contact if pos-
sible. It isthis perfect placing of uniting parts that
commands the high percentage of success in whip
grafting. With stock and scion of equal diameters,

168

the uniting forces of both are brought into full play
along the whole line of contact, and the union is
completed in the least possible time, and becomes so
perfect as scarcely to be discernible.

At one time a union of bark was held to be all-

important, but it has long been known that the

cambium under the bark is the force that unites scion
and stock into one tree. Hence the importance of
fixing inner bark to inner bark in stock and scion to
insure success.

Good Workmanship.—This includes swift-
ness, smoothness, stability, and impenetrability.
From the time that the stock is beheaded not a mo-
ment should be lost in the manipulation of stock
and scion. A sloping cut on each of equal length
and equal diameter will, when the two are bound
together, form the two into one diameter, as if
nothing had happened. Only practice can give
such proficiency as to enable the operator with two
cuts to manipulate scion and stock into proper form ;
but when this can be done, a better fit will be in-
sured than is possible by any amount of future
whittling. Fresh wounds also unite much more
quickly than those exposed to the air. Rapid ma-
nipulation also favours smoothness. Such cuts will
generally slope at a regular angle from base to
summit, and leave no irregular or jagged edges be-
hind them; a perfect fit is thus insured. To insure
stability, the tying should follow the fitting, and be
completed at once. This can hardly be too tight,
and care should be taken not to displace the two
parts in the winding of the tie from base to summit
of the wound. The good old plan of also fixing a
support to the scion, to prevent its being displaced
by the wind, is as much needed as ever, especially in
the case of standard trees grafted high. A stake
should be firmly fixed to the stock and carried up be-
yond the summit of the scion, and to this support the
scion is securely fixed. The first tie gives perfect
stability at starting, the second insures it until the
stability resulting from growth renders artificial
props needless.

The last aim of good workmanship in grafting
is impenetrability. To hasten and consolidate a
healthy union between stock and scion, light, air,
and water should be excluded. The sap and young
wood in a state of incipient formation—the extend-
ing roots, the bursting buds, and the expanding
leaves—are the uniting forces employed. These
have only to be protected from external attack or
interference, and they will assuredly complete their
work by moulding scion and stock into one tree.
Hence the efficacy of all clayings, cementings, and
waxings is exactly in the ratio of their impenetra-
bility. Their action is wholly mechanical, and in no

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

sense healing or medicinal; and thus it happens that
one grafting composition is just as good as another,
so long as it excludes rain, air, and, to some extent,
light, till the wounded tissues have united. So soon
as this happens, all such substances are better re-
moved, either tentatively or at once.

So soon as the union is complete, and the-scion
starts into growth, there will also be an enlargement
of the diameter of the young Apple-tree, and its de-
mand for more room should be met with the prompt
removal of the ties that bound the scion and stock
together. Should there, however, be any doubt
about the soundness of the union, a second or looser
tie may be given for a time.

In this stage the disbudding of any wilding shoots
from the lower portion of the stock; the suppres-
sion of suckers, if any; and the rapid development
and careful moulding into form of the growing
Apple-shoots, will be all the attention the tree
will require during the first season. Of course, the
ground will also be kept free of weeds, and the trees
may be left in the rows in which they were worked
for another season or two, or lifted in the autumn
and placed in their permanent fruiting quarters, ac-
cording -to the wants or wishes of their propagators.

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

By Witiiam HueH Gower.

Eriostemon.— A genus of compact-growing
shrubs belonging to the order Rutacee. The name
signifies ‘‘ woolly stamen,” and is derived from the
hispid hairs which clothe those organs. Efrioste-
mons are plants of easy culture, delighting in a cool
dry atmosphere. To secure handsome pyramidal
plants the main shoot must be allowed to grow erect
without stopping, but the lateral growths will re-
quire attention in order to keep the plant properly
balanced The flowers are somewhat short-lived.
Pot in‘a mixture of peat, light loam, and sand, in
about equal parts, and drain the pots well. They
are all natives of Australia.

E. buxifolium attains a height of three to six
feet, but, like all the species, flowers when quite
small. The leaves are entire, ovate, furnished with
a bristle-like point, and deep green; flowers axil-
lary, numerous, somewhat star-shaped, white, more
or less tinged with rosy-pink. Spring and early
summer.

E. cuspidatum.—A robust ‘plant, with lanceolate
leaves of a glaucous hue, furnished with a recurved
bristle at the point ; flowers rosy-pink. Summer
months.

£. intermedium.—The branches slightly downy;

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 169

leaves oblong, ending in a long bristle, glaucous ;
flowers white. Summer months.

E. linearifolium.— A densely-branched species,
with linear-obtuse leaves, which are glandular and
dark green; flowers star-like, white, suffused with
a rosy-pink hue. Spring and early summer.

£E. myoporoides.
—A robust plant ;
leaves large for
the genus, linear-
lanceolate, glan-
dular and mucro-
nate ; flowers pro-
duced on short
axillary racemes,
three or four
together, white.
Early summer
months.

£. neritfolium.
—tLeaves lanceo-
late, glandular,
and dark green;
racemes _ three-
flowered; flowers
star-like, white,
and tinged with
pink towards the
edges. Spring
and early sum-
mer.

£. pulchellum.
—tLeaves small,
and dark green ;
flowers produced
in great abund-
ance, white.
Spring months.

£E. scaber. —
This is a hand-
some but some-
what delicate
plant, and con- Ht
sequently it is
more frequently
graited upon
some strong-growing species; the leaves are linear,
dark green, the glandular dots giving them a rough
appearance; flowers numerous, white, tinged with
pink. Spring and early summer.

Eucalyptus.—These plants are mostly gigantic
trees, in some instances attaining a height of three
hundred feet, with a proportionate girth. They are
popularly known throughout the Australian colonies
as Gum-trees. The Blue Gum-tree, £. globulus,

GREVILLEA Ropusta.

yields a fine quality of timber, and recently has ac-
quired a European reputation as an antidote to
malaria, and has been largely planted in marshy
districts. The “Stringy Bark,” E. gigantea, attains

to an immense size, and its wood isa most useful
timber.

The name of “‘ Gum-trees’’ comes from the
fact of many
species yielding a
quantity of gum
which is used for
various purposes.
Eucalyptus — de-
longs to the order
Myrtaceae. Their
leaves are entire,
thick, and
leathery in tex-
ture, and, like
the phyllodes of
the Acacias,
mostly stand with
their edges to the
branches, and not
flat, as most
leaves do. Their
flowers are showy
and the fruits are
large, hard, and
woody, variously
shaped, and are
exceedingly curi-
ous and interest-
ing, but they are
far too large to
introduce to the
majority of plant-
houses. The
species mentioned
below, however, is
an exception to
this rule, and is
well deserving of
the attention of
all those who
appreciate frag-
rant leaves. Pot
in three parts of light loam and one part of peat.

E. citriodora—A_ slender-growing plant, having
small, oblong, bright green leaves, which are fur-
nished with numerous glandular hairs, that give off
a delicious fragrance, resembling that of the Lemon-
scented Verbena. Australia.

Gasteria.— These are small-growing plants —
sometimes called “‘ Tongue Aloes.”” The name comes
from gaster, ‘the belly,” in allusion to the curved

170

tubular flowers, which are much inflated or. bellied
out towards the base. There is indeed little to dis-
tinguish them from Aloe, but they were separated
from that genus by Haworth, who made these plants
a special study. There are a considerable number
of species ; many of them have their leaves arranged
in a two-ranked or distichous manner. The leaves
are thick and massive, and rigid in outline, ‘whilst
some have a spiral habit of growth. The leaves
are mostly tongue-shaped; some species have rough
leaves, caused by little wart-like protuberances all
over the skin; others again are smooth, shining,
and very beautifully coloured. In addition to their
highly-coloured leaves, the Gasterias produce long
arched spikes of pendulous flowers, which are
tubular and mostly some shade of red, tipped with
green, and spring from the axils of the leaves during
spring and early summer. ll are natives of the
Cape of Good Hope. For cultivation see Aloe.

The following are some of the most interesting
and handsome species :—

G. anguina,. G. latifolia,

G. brevifolia. G. levis.

G. brachyphylla, G. letepunctata.
G. Bowieana. G. maculata.

G. carinata. G. nigricans.

G. candicans, G. obliqua.

G. conspureata, G. obtusifolia.
G. disticha. G. pulchra.

G. ensifolia. G. subnigricans,
G. formosa. G. spiralis.

G. fasciata. G. undata.

G. glabra, G. verrucosa.

G. intermedia, G. vittata,

G. lingua.

Genetyllis.—This genus belongs to the natural
order called Fringe-Myrtles, to distinguish them
from the order of Myrtle-blooms, for although the
foliage of the Genetyllis have the fragrance of the
latter, there is no other resemblance between them.

The correct name of the present genus is Darwinia ;
it contains about ascore of species; these, however, are
all handsome plants, characterised by the large cam-
panulate involucre encircling their flowers, which is
highly coloured and very persistent; to this involucre,
which many cultivators look upon as the flower, these
plants are indebted for their beauty, whilst in reality
the individual flowers are small and unattractive.

As before remarked, Genetyllis are ail highly
ornamental plants, and as the involucres are not
easily bruised they bear removing well, and thus
they are excellent subjects for exhibition purposes.
They are plants that require considerable care and
attention to grow into good large and well-furnished
specimens. The soil we prefer for them is good
fibrous peat, with a very little light loam added, and
sufficient sand should be mixed with it to render
the whole gritty. Good drainage is most essen-

' tial; water judiciously, but enough should be given

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

to wet the whole mass through, and the roots must
never be allowed to become quite dry at any time.
The species here enumerated are to be found in some
collections under the name Hederoma. All are natives
of South-west Australia.

G. finbriata. —A charming small-growing plant,
which has the character of being a rather shy
bloomer under cultivation; it is, however, so distinct
and beautiful that it well merits a place in every
collection; the bell-like involucres are light rose-
colour, elegantly fringed around the mouth. Summer
months.

G. Hookeriana—sometimes called G. fuchsioides—
is a stronger-growing plant than the preceding; all
the stems and branches are bright red ; leaves small,
dark green above, pale on the under side; the in-
volucres are bright reddish-scarlet and very lasting,
Spring and early summer.

G. tulipifera.—As its name implies, the large in-
volucres of this species resemble invertéd tulips ; itis
a strong grower and very free bloomer ; the leaves are
stout, about an inch long, and fragrant, dark green
on the upper side, paler below ; involucres white or
pale yellow, flaked and striped with bright flame-
colour and crimson. Spring and early summer. The
correct name is Darwinia macrostegia.

Genista.—A large family of Pea-flowered plants,
most of which are hardy and must be passed over in
this place. A sprig of Genista was the badge of the
Plantagenet kings, and from whence they derived
the name, Genét or Planta Genét of the French,
Gen being the Celtic name fora small bush. One
species, G. tinctoria, in former times was in great
repute as a dye-plant.

The green-house species, with which only we shall
deal here, are free-growing and compact plants,
admirably adapted for all purposes of decoration;
the flowers are fragrant and mostly produced during
the winter and early spring months, which greatly
enhances their value. Genistas succeed well in a
light loamy soil. After the flowering season is past
they should be pruned back hard in order to in-
duce lateral growth, and thus form bushy and
well-furnished specimens. After the new growth is
made remove the plants to the open air, so that the
shoots may be well ripened, and a plentiful crop of
flowers insured. They strike very easily from cut-
tings, and commence blooming’ when quite small
plants.

G. Everestiana.—A compact plant with trifoliate

.dark green leaves, and long spikes of rich orange-

yellow; fragrant flowers. Early spring months.

G. racemosa.—A somewhat tall plant; leaves tri-
foliate, racemes terminal on all the shoots; flowers
bright yellow and fragrant. Winter months.

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. i7l

G. racemosa superba, — Leaves tritoliate, large,
slightly hairy; flowers in long racemes, rich deep
yellow. Winter and early spring months. This is one
of the most useful of the whole family, and in many
gardens is the only one grown. As the name imports,
when well grown it is a plant of very fine effect.

Gnidia.—These are compact-growing Heath-like
plants with slender branches, and somewhat resemble
Pimelea, They require nearly the same treatment as

Ericas, but their foliage is too soft to enable them
to withstand full exposure to the sun in the open aur,

so that a good airy and partially-shaded position
should be given them in the green-house, or if a cool
frame can be devoted to them so much the better for
the welfare of the plants. Peat and sand with a very
little loam suits them admirably. The roots of
Gnidias are very delicate, and are easily destroyed;
therefore careful watering is necessary to preserve
the happy medium between flood and drought.

G, pinifolia—This is perhaps the handsomest
species in the genus; the leaves are somewhat nar-
row and triangular, soft green; flowers in terminal
capitate heads on all the shoots, soft creamy-white or
straw-colour. Spring and early summer. Cape of
Good Hope.

G. imberbis.—Similar to the preceding, but the
leaves are shorter and more closely set; the capitate
heads of flower are pale yellow. Eariy summer
months. Cape of Good Hope.

Gompholobium.—A genus of Leguminose, con-
taining some very handsome species. They are
mostly slender trailing plants and rather delicate
in constitution, but their beauty when in flower fully
compensates for any extra care required in their
cultivation. One species not introduced to cultiva-
tion in this country (G. wncinatum) has a bad repu-
tation amongst the farmers of South Australia, who
affirm that when sheep feed upon its branches it has
a very injurious effect.

Gompholobiums when young should be potted in
peat and sand only, but when the plants have at-
tained some size and strength they will be much bene-
fited by the addition of a little light sandy loam. The
twining species of this genus should be trained over
a balloon-shaped wire trellis if intended for exhibi-
tion purposes, but for ordinary green-house decora-
tions a trellis in the shape of a column will have
the best effect. All are natives of South and West
Australia. :

G. barbigerum.—An erect-growing plant and the
largest-flowered species in the family ; the stems are
angular, bearing trifoliate leaves, segments linear,
dark green; flowers yellow, solitary in the axils,
about an inch in diameter. May and June.

G. polymorphum splendens,—A slender twining
plant, with quinate leaves, leaflets linear, recurved
at the edgcs, and furnished with a stiff bristle at
the end; flowers bright crimson-scarlet and yellow,
solitary in the axils of the leaf. Spring and early
summer.

G. venustum.—A beautiful but rare species; a
twining plant bearing smooth pinnate leaves of many
pairs of leaflets: flowers rosy-purple, produced in a
terminal corymb. Spring and early summer.

Grevillea.—The genus belongs to the Protea-
ceous family, and includes species remarkable as
ornamental foliage plants, and others as flowering
plants of great beauty, with flowers of singular
structure. They bear quite cool green-house treat-
ment, and are very desirable ornaments.

The soil should be fibrous peat and turfy loam,
two parts of each, and one part of sharp sand. The
pots should be well filled with roots before shifting
into a larger size, as they do not like a large quantity
of mould about them. If Grevilleas have the tops
of the shoots pinched occasionally when young they
will make close bushy plants, and will not fail to
attract the lovers of flowers when in bloom.

G. alpestris.—One of the most profuse-blooming
species we have, for although it makes a rather large
shrub in its native wilds, it commences to bloom in
the green-house when only a few inches high. The
whole plant is more or less pubescent; leaves ovate,
dark green, greyish below; flowers on racemes on
all the points, hairy, dull red, tipped with straw-
colour; almost a perpetual bloomer. Widely dis-
tributed throughout Australia.

G, Banksii.—This species is a bold and strong
grower, attaining the height of fifteen feet and
upwards. The leaves are pinnatifid, divided nearly
down to the midrib, segments narrow, bright green
above, silky below; flowers produced in large dense
terminal racemes, rosy-red. August and September.
Queensland.

G. ericifolia.—The whole plant slightly pubescent ,
leaves long and narrow, curiously twisted; flowers
in racemes on all the shoots, bright red, tipped with
greenish-yellow. Winter months. Australia; widely
distributed.

G. fasciculata.—An elegant erect plant, some four
feet high when mature, but it flowers in quite a
small state; leaves narrow, about an inch or more
long, upper surface rough and deep green, under
side clothed with a brownish tomentum; flowers in
racemes on the ends of all the shoots, red, tipped
with yellow. May and June. Swan River.

G. macrostylis—The peculiar foliage of this plant
is another example of the protean forms taken on by
the members of this order. In this plant the leaves

172 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

are broad and trifid, somewhut resembling a Ber-
beris, armed with a spine on each lobe, bright deep
grcen ; racemes on all the shoots, few-flowered, bright
red, passing into primrose-yellow; style very. long.
April and May. West Australia.

G. Preissiii—The foliage of this species is most
elegant, segments very fine and narrow, and brilliant
green; racemes terminal on all its shoots, dense;
flowers slightly hairy, rosy-pink, tipped with green ;
an abundant bloomer. March and April. South-
west Australia.

G. robusta.—This species is cultivated for its beau-
tiful ornamental foliage only, and when young is
admirably adapted for table or room decoration. It,
is the Silkk Oak of the Australian colonist, and
attains the height of one hundred feet, producing
large panicles of orange-coloured flowers. In this
country, however, it has never flowered. The leaves
are much divided and light green. It produces the
best effect when kept to a single stem,

G. rosmarinifolia.A superb and robust-growing
species, with narrow erect leaves, nearly two inches
long, deep green above, hoary beneath; racemes
produced on the points of all the shoots, many-
flowered, colour rich deep red. February and March.
New South Wales.

Habrothamnus.—This namo literally signifies
“gay shrub,” and they are said to be amongst the
most beautiful of all the Mexican plants. They
belong to the order Solanacee, and are tall-growing
plants, with long shoots, well adapted for covering
pillars, rafters, or a back wall in a conservatory, but
do not conform well to pot-culture. For soil, use
peat and rich loam in about equal parts.

H. elegans.—A strong, robust plant, with large,
alternate, entire, broadly-lanceolate leaves, which
are dark green and slightly pubescent on the under
surface ; flowers tubular, produced in large, dense,
terminal, drooping panicles, deep reddish - purple.
These, if fertilised, are succeeded by bright rosy-red
fruits, resembling large bunches of grapes; it flowers
nearly the whole year round, but is specially prolific
during winter and early spring. There is a variety
of this plant with the edges of the leaves broadly
margined with white, which affords a pleasing con-
trast, but it is rather delicate in constitution.

H. fasciculatus.—Leaves ovate, entire, pubescent,
dark green; flowers in dense terminal heads, rich
crimson-scarlet. Spring months. Like the pre-
ceding species, it isa native of Mexico,

Hardenbergia,—A family of climbing plants,
producing beautiful Pea-shaped flowers, mostly blue,
a colour that is always vory acceptable. They are
nearly allied to Kennedya, but their flowers are muck
smuller than any of the last-named family.

Hardenbergias are all plants of easy culture, and
rapidly clothe a trellis or pillar in the green-house,
and furnish a rich abundance of their beautiful
flowers. For soil, use loam and peat in about equal
parts, adding a portion of sand to keep the whole
open.

H. cordata. — Leaves heart-shaped and dark
green; racemes many-flowered; blooms pale blue.
April and May. Swan River.

HH. Comptoniana.—Leaves trifoliate ; leaflets blunt-
oblong, dark green: racemes many-flowered ; bloom
scarlet. Spring and early summer months. Aus-
tralia.

H. monophylia.—Leaves simple, lanceolate, dark
green; racemes many-flowered ; bright blue. It
blooms during the greater part of the season. South

Australia. There is also a variety having its leaves
variously blotched and striped with yellowish-
white.

Haworthia.—A family of plants very much re-
sembling miniature Aloes, and to which they are
very nearly allied. They have been separated from
that genus, and named in honour of the distin-
guished botanist, Haworth, and are characterised
by their tubular flowers being erect, and the limb
two-lipped, and by their seed-vessels being more or
less ribbed. Haworthias require a little more atten-
tion than their near relations, the Aloes and Gaste-
rias, requiring shade from the fiercest rays of the
sun during the summer months, and a little more
heat in winter than is given the ordinary denizens
of the green-house, and they cannot suffer much
drought without soon being injuriously affected
thereby.

Some of the species have beautiful translucent
leaves, others are plain and smooth, and some have
curiously verrucose and variegated leaves, whilst
another section, often called Apicras,. have very
crowded, stiff, cuspidate leaves, and an erect growth.

Haworthias should be kept in small pots, and these
drained well; the soil to consist of lightloam and
broken brick and mortar rubbish; they are very
slow in growth, and are usually increased by
suckers,

The following list contains a selection of the most
beautiful kinds :—

H. albicans. H. erecta.

H. arachnoides, H, fasciata,

H. aspera. H. foliolosa.

H. atrovirens. H. imbricata,
H. attenuata, H. lete-virens.
H. Bolusii. H. longiaristata.
H. bullata, H. margaritifera,
H. concava. H, mirabilis.

H. coarctata, H. mucronata,
H. clariperla, H. papillosa,

H. congesta. Hi. parva,

H. cuspidata, H. pentagona,
H. cymbeefolia, H. planifolia.

GREEN-HOUSE . PLANTS.

H. Radula. H. spiralis.

H. recurva, H. subulata.

H. Reinwarati H. subattenuata.
H. reticulata, H., tessellata,

H. retusa. H. torquata.

H. rigida. H., translucens.
H, rugosa. H. turgida.

H. setata. H. viscosa.

Heliotropium.—tThe various species of plants
belonging to this genus are of little importance in a
decorative point of view; there is, however, one ex-
ception, and that is the popular favourite, H. Peru-
vianum, and its cultivated varieties, all of which are
known to every one as
“ Cherry-pie plants.”

This plant and its
varieties are extremely
easy to cultivate, and
from the delicious fra-
grance which they emit,
they are much in de-
mand for bouquet mak-
ing and for mixing
with any other cut
fiowers.

Heliotropes are low,
shrubby plants, with en-
tire oblong leaves, which
are covered more or less
with long rigid hairs ;
the racemes are densely
set with small lilac, pur-
ple, or white flowers.
They are frequently used
for bedding purposes in
the summer months. For
the production of cut
flowers a plant should
be trained against a
wall cr pillar in the
green-house. <A light rich loam suits them best.

The following are a few of the best varieties :—

H. Beauty of the Boudoir.—Purple-shaded lilac.

HH. Florence Nightingale.—Deep purple.

HI. Souvenir de Léopold I.—Uilac.

HH. the Queen.—Mauve.

Hi. Voltaireanum.—Deep purple.

H. White Lady.—Pure white ; especially useful for
winter blooming.

Hovea.—These are shrubby leguminose plants
from various parts of Australia, but chiefly from
the South-eastern and Western.

They are plants of easy culture, but being rather
straggling in habit, they require extra attention in
the matter of stopping, in order to form compact
bushes.

For potting, a compost of three parts peat and one

HYDRANGEA HORTENSIS.

173

of light loam, with about a sixth part of sharp sand,
suits them admirably, and the soil should be used
rough.

The flowers of Hoveas are all some shade of blue.
They form brilliant ornaments in the green-house,
and are well adapted for exhibition purposes; but,
unfortunately, they have, to a great extent, been
pushed out of our collections by the numerous soft-
wooded plants now more frequently grown, many
of which cannot compare, for grace and beauty, with
what are termed old-fashioned plants.

H. CelsiirA hand-
some plant, with alter-
nate, broadly-lanceolate
leaves, deep green;
racemes erect, many-
flowered, rich cobalt-
blue. Spring and early
summer.

HT. elliptica. — Leaves
oblong-ovate, deep green
above, rusty below;
flowers purple. Spring
and early summer.

HT. pungens.—A very
free - growing species.
Leaves linear, having
the edges slightly rolled
back; flowers deep
blue. Spring and early
summer.

Humea.—2H. elegans
is the only species in
the genus. It belongs
to the order Composite,
and is remarkable in this
family for producing a
large terminal feathery inflorescence, almost resem-
bling that of some of the grasses. The plant is a
biennial, and attains a height of from three to ten
feet, with ample stem-clasping leaves, which are thin
in texture and bright green. When rubbed or
brushed against, these give off « strong aromatic
odour, which is highly relished by some, but much
disliked by others.

The seeds should be sown about June or July, and
when large enough to handle conveniently, potted
into single pots and grown all the summer in the
green-house, or, what is better, a frame, where the
pots can stand on a cool bottom, and have a free
current of air. During this time the plants should
be re-potted as they require it; in the following
spring they should be shifted into rather large pots.
Being coarse feeders, it is necessary to supply them
with an abundance of root-room, and from about the

174 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

time the flower begins to show, an occasional water-
ing with liquid manure will be highly beneficial.
The branching panicle is drooping and densely
clothed with small rosy-crimson flowers, and pre-
sents the appearance of a beautiful fountain. The
soil should be rich loam and thoroughly decomposed
manure in equal parts.

It is also admirably adapted for surmounting
flights of steps upon terraces in the open air and for
general use in the sub-tropical garden. South-east
Australia.

Hydrangea.—The plants belonging to this
family are all very handsome, with bold dark green
leaves and large terminal heads of flowers. Flowers
are usually dependent upon the corolla for their
chief beauty, but in the case of Hydrangeas the
reverse is the case, as the corolla is nearly always
wanting, and what is usually looked upon as such is
an extraordinary enlargement of the calyx. The
name comes from hydor, “ water,” and, as they cer-
tainly revel in a large supply of that element, they
are popularly called Water-drinkers.

In some parts of the kingdom, more especially in
Ireland, H. hortensis attains considerable proportions
in the open borders, forming magnificent specimens
from twenty to thirty feet in circumference; and
although the heads of bloom are not so large as are
obtained under pot-culture with young plants, they
are nevertheless exceedingly beautiful,

As green-house plants, there are two distinct
systems of treatment. If a bushy specimen is re-
quired, then every year after flowering they should
be cut back, and afterwards shifted into larger pots.
In this manner large plants may soon be obtained,
which will produce a great quantity of their beauti-
ful globular heads of bloom. These plants will lose
their leaves in winter, and, if kept tolerably dry at
the roots, may be stowed in a shed or any place
which will exclude frost till returning spring again
starts them into life.

The second and more usual method is to grow
plants from cuttings each year, and confine them to
asingle stem. By this means immense heads may
be obtained, measuring several feet in circumference.
The details of this system are as follows:—In the
month of March the cuttings she ald be inserted, and
placed in a little heat, using for soil equal parts of
loam, peat, and sand. As soon as rooted, pot them
singly into small pots, and, when they are well
established, again shift them into pots two sizes
larger, using the same soil, but adding a little
manure to their drink about once a week. They
should be kept in the warmest part of the green-
house during this time, until the terminal growth
forms a knotty crown. After this, place them in

the open air, with full exposure to the sun, which
will ripen the wood and set the flower-buds. Before
frost can touch them, remove in-doors. Exclude
them from frost and keep rather dry until some
time in the month of February, when they should
be started into growth, and again re-potted. Ina
short time after this the heads of bloom will begin
to show themselves, and from that time forth liquid
manure must be given once every week.

H. hortensis.—This plant, introduced from China
by Sir Joseph Banks, has large, smooth, elliptical
leaves, tapering at each end, toothed at the edges,
and bright green. The flowers are produced in a
large cyme, and usually of a lovely shade of pink,
but sometimes blue. This latter colour the gardener
is always anxious to produce, but there are frequent
failures in the attempt. There is little doubt that
this colour is derived from the presence of iron in
the soil, and we have also found that a continuous
use of alum in the water will bring about the de-
sired result.

H. Thomas Hogg.—This is undoubtedly a variety
of the preceding, and thrives under exactly the same
treatment. In growth and size of blooms there is
little to distinguish it, but the flowers are pure
paper-white. Introduced to this country from the
gardens of the United States of America.

H. paniculata, the finest of them all, may be used
for out-door or in-door purposes.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

By WiLi1am WILDSMITH.

SPRING BEDDING AND SPRING FLOWERS,
OR years past every branch of flower gardening
has been growing in public favour, but none
more so than that of spring bedding: a very natural
piece of favouritism, seeing that this class of flowers
are the first to greet u» after the long and all but
flowerless weeks of winter. Thereis another reason,
and that is the late general revival of, and increase
of interest in, hardy flowers of all descriptions; and,
as a matter of course, as one gets to know the merits
of the various sections, those that give us the largest
amount of pleasure at the earliest season are bound
to be prominent in the list.

This is just as it should be, but there is another
side to the picture which in scores of cases hinders,
and in some altogether prevents, the cultivation of
spring flowers, at any rate in large gardens. This
is that the London season extending over the whole
of the spring months, and entailing the consequent
non-residence of the gentry in the country, spring
flower gardening is not a necessity; and, indeed,
we know instances where it has positively been for-

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

bidden, and the order given to concentrate the
labour on summer and autumn display. This fact
those who disparage summer bedding would do well
to take into account, for none will dispute that
the owner of a garden has a just right to de-
mand from a servant the carrying out of whatever
branch of gardening is best suited to his arrange-
ments.

The cultivation of spring flowers in permanent
hardy flower borders, or in front of shrubbery
clumps on the lawn and turf, or in large masses at
the sides of woodland walks, is altogether a sepa-
rate question. This way of growing them being
virtually no expense in labour or otherwise, no em-
ployer can possibly object to their being thus grown
in the greatest possible abundance; and every real
gardener who has once gota taste for this way of
growing them will not easily be diverted from the
path. Of course to get a good and extensive dis-
play is a work of ‘time and patience, yet repayment
comes wonderfully quickly. Snowdrops, Primroses,
Daffodils, Wood Anemones, and Wild Hyacinths
are generally to be had by the thousand on all large
estates, and only need collection and arrangement to
produce grand floral effects in spring. What looks
more natural than to see clumps of these on the turf,
even in the most dressy parts? Asa rule they have
done flowering before mowing is needed. Or if not
on the turf, why not in large clumps in front of
shrubberies, and, still better, under deciduous trees?
Add to the common kinds just named those that can
be bought at an extraordinarily cheap rate—viz.,
Crocuses, Pheasant’s-eye, and double Narcissus,
Scillas, Dog’s-tooth Violets, double and single Prim-
roses, Polyanthus, Cowslips, double Daisies, Hepati-
cas, Pansies, Myosotis, Aubrietias, Arabis, and
Alyssums—also the kinds that come readily from
seeds, such as Wallflowers, Stocks, Silénes, Candy-
tufts, Limnanthes, Collinsias, and many others, and
it will be seen what a wealth of spring beauty is
possible at a merely nominal cost. The planting of
most kinds is of a permanent nature, the advent of
each spring finding them of increased vigour and
extent, producing a corresponding degree of pleasure
in every lover of flowers, and especially in those that
were privileged to plant them.

For villa and cottage gardens there is no better
way of obtaining spring flowers than by planting
them in permanent groups on the turf or in the
borders round about the house ; indeed, it is by this
old-fashioned mode of planting that scores of our
old-fashioned flowers (which are again becoming
new”) have been preserved to us. Annuals and
biennials must of course have border culture, but
every description of bulbous-rooted spring flowers
should be on turf or in the shrubbery border, for it is

175

there they look best, give least trouble, and, what is
a consideration in small gardens, take up virtually
no space.

Spring Bedding.—The above is one phase of
spring gardening, the other and larger being that of
spring bedding, a branch rendered the more neces-
sary some few years back, owing to the general
practice of summer bedding, a style of flower gar-
dening that caused such a blank in gardens as soon
as severe frost set in, that it was felt that “ some-
thing must be done” towards remedying such a
state of things. Hence the advent of winter and,
more generally, of spring Wedding-out, but neither
has as yet received the universal adoption that the
inexpensiveness of either would warrant. ll.
without exception, admit that one or the other is
necessary to supplement summer bedding, the diffi-
culty in many cases being which to adopt, a point
that can only be decided by those most nearly con-
cerned. The best aid to solution is to ask whether
winter effectiveness and brightness sball be pre-
ferred to spring gaiety of flowers; and to this must
be added that other consideration before-named—
at which season is the family in residence? If
longest in winter, then shrubs and hardy carpeting
plants should stand before spring flowers, which,
though they do furnish the beds in winter, are for
the most part so small and uninteresting at that
season as to be but a mere apology for furnishing.
A combination of the two styles of planting is pos-
sible—i.e., shrubs and spring flowers—but at neither
season does the garden look so well when thus
planted, as it does when either winter or spring
planting is adopted, each in its entirety; and
being much more difficult to carry out, it is scarcely
worthy of consideration.

It is presumed that the foregoing remarks show a
sufficient reason for the adoption of spring bedding.
To do the same well, the first essential is a reserve
garden—that is, a plot of ground set apart for the
transference of the plants at the end of the flowerirg
season from the garden proper, to be prepared by
division and other modes of propagation for the
following season’s use. The best site for such a
garden is that of a shady border; north and east
aspects are best, for the obvious reason that when the
plants are lifted at the end of May or beginning of
June, the weather is warm and dry, hence shade or
a cool spot is indispensable to the early re-establish-
ment of the plants. Besides, they grow best under
such conditions, red spider and other insects being
troublesome when grown in the full sun, or if they
suffer from drought. It will be gathered from this
that moisture and liberal culture are necessary to
the obtaining of a healthy growth, without which

176 CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING.

even the hardiest would be liable to succumb in a
severe winter.

Arrangement of Plants.—There is such a
diversity and immensily of spring-flowering plants,
that it is very difficult to give an arrangement likely
to suit the generality of readers; and we shall only
name one or two which, according to our judgment,
are amongst the most effective. Simple groups and
mixtures of colour look best, and they should be
surrounded by bands or cushions of dwarfer-growing
plants, such as Cerastiums, Stone-crops, Sedums,
Herniavia glabra, variegated Arabis, or similar
plants. The only “ dotting” of flowers allowable in
spring bedding is that of Tulips, Hyacinths, and
Narcissus ; all these look first-rate springing from a
carpet of any of the mossy section of Saxifragas, and
Sedums; and there is another advantage in this
arrangement, which is that the Sedums, or whatever
ground-work be used, look well the winter through,
and serve also as protection to the bulbs. Such
“carpets” should always be prepared in the reserve
garden for lifting in flakes, turf-fashion, and be
simply pressed down on the beds; thus the allotted
space is filled out at once.

It is with spring as with summer bedding—that
is, simplicity of design and quietness of colouring
afford the greatest pleasure for the longest period.
Strictly adhering to this principle, the following
arrangements are given as amongst the best we have
seen. And here it may be observed that three
colours of flowers, or at the most five in the largest
bed (exclusive of foliage plants), are all that should
be used ; more than this have the effect of destroy-
ing that sense of repose that should characterise all
floral arrangements.

The following is an arrangement for a circular

bed twelve feet in diameter:—A central plant of.

Yucea recurva ; then two rows of dark and yellow
Wallflowers, alternated; riext, two rows of white
and blue Forget-me-nots, also alternated ; the outer
two rows being white and coloured Polyanthus in
mixture, and the edging Sedum acre aureum.

A spring “carpet”’ bed of like dimensions is as
follows:—A ground-work over the entire bed of
Sedum aere elegans, creamy-yellow ; then two rows of
scarlet Tulips or Hyacinths ; next, two rows of white
ditto, the outer lines to be light pink and blue
Hyacinths alternated. Should the number of plants
present a meagre appearance, white Viola—Mrs.
Grey—may with excellent effect be thinly planted
over the entire bed.

The following is also a most telling arrangement
for a similar-sized bed, or even smaller :—White
Viola—Mrs. Grey—Cliveden Blue Pansy, and Silene
pendula compacta, pink, in regular mixture all over

the bed, with an enclosing band or edging of white
and red Daisies.

Another arrangement is—variegated Arabis as a
ground-work, and over the whole, the compact-
growing blue Forget-me-not (Myosotis dissitiflora)
and Cliveden Yellow Pansy, and white Tulips, or
Hyacinths.

An excellent villa or cottage garden arrangement
consists of scarlet and yellow Wallflowers, Cliveden
Blue Pansy, and yellow Viola (/utea) ; the edging to
be Sedum glaucum.

From the foregoing it will be seen that preference
is here shown for mixtures rather than masses of
colour, a plan that, besides being more pleasing,
has the additional advantage of concealing any
defect that may arise through the failure or partial
failure of any of the plants. Good bold edgings of
some distinctive plant should be a primary con-
sideration for every bed. Common Primroses,
Arabis, hardy Heaths, variegated Thyme, Daisies,
Sedums, and Saxifragas, and Crocuses, to be planted
in the two last-named plans, are some of the best
plants for edgings in spring bedding arrangements.

List of Plants for Spring Bedding.—These .
may be classed under three heads: first, Perennials,
or such as are increased by cuttings and division;
secondly, Annuals and Biennials, that can be raised
from seeds; and lastly, Bulbs, and Carpeting Plants.
best adapted for planting in conjunction with Bulbs,

PERENNIALS.
Alyssum saxatile. Myosotis (Forget-me-nots),
A. saxatile variegata. several kinds,
Arabis albida. Omphalodes verne.

A. albida variegata.

Pansies, many kinds.
A. lucida variegata.

Phlox sublata,

Aubrietia purpurea varie- P. Nelsoni.

gata. P..verna.
A, Campbellii. Polyanthus, a_ great
A. deltoides. variety.
A. greca. Primroses, many kinds.
Caltha palustris, Saxifraga granulata flore-
Cheiranthus alpinus. pleno. |
C. Cheiri (Wallflowers), | S. pyramidalis.

purple, yellow, and red | S. ligulata.

varieties, Stachys lanata.

Daisies, double red and
white varieties.

Erica carnea.

Gentiana, acaulis,

G. verna,

Iberis semperflorens,

L gibraltarica.

es, green and varie-

gated,
Vines. (Periwinkles), green
and variegated.
Violas—The Czsr, Queen
Victoria, and Marie
Louise.

ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS.

Bartonia aurea. Nemophila atomaria.
Candytufts, purple, white, N. insignis.

and crimson. Saponaria calabrica.
Collinsia bicolor. Silene pendula.
C. verna. S. pendula compacta.
Erysimum Peroffskianum. Stocks, Brompton and Em.

Eschscholtzia californica. peror.
Limnanthus Douglasii. Virginian Stocks,
L. sulphurea. Wallflowers.

Myosotis arvensis, blue and
white kinds.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

Bugs anp CarpetTinc Piants.

Ajuga reptans purpurea.

Anemone apennina.

A, blanda.

Antennaria tomentosa.

Bulbocodium vernum.

Cerastium tomentosum.

Crocus verna,

C. imperati.

C. biflorus.

Crown Imperials (Fritil-
laria)

Hepatica triloba, in variety.
Hyacinths, all the single
kinds,

Narcissus poeticus, and
many others.

Ranunculus, all the Tur-
ban varieties.

Saxifraga hypnoides, and
others of the mossy
section.

Scilla siberica.'

. bif

S. verna.

Sedum acre elegans,

S. glaucum.

S. Lydium.

S. corsicum.

Tulips—double and single
Duc van Thol, Tournesol,
Pottebakker, Waterloo,
Rosa Mundi, Royal Stan-
dard, ellow Prince,
White Swan, Queen Vic-
toria, La Candeur, and
Rex rubrorum.

Propagation and Summer Culture of
Plants.—Taking these in the order named, first
come the perennials, nearly all of which are most
easily increased by division of plants, which operation
is best performed when they are moved from the
beds at the end of May or early in June. A border
or plot of ground having an eastern exposure, and
not over-shadowed by trees, is the best site; and
the soil should be a free open loam, and be manured
with vegetable or leaf soil in preference to stable
‘or farmyard manure; then the plants are sure
to make, and transplant with, abundance of fibrous
roots. The ground being thus prepared, division of
plants may then go on till the desired number is
had; and as there are usually plenty of plants to be
discarded, the most vigorous only of these should be
selected for increase of young stock. All the kinds
should be planted in lines at such distances apart
as habit or growth of the plants demands, a conve-
nient distance for most kinds being a foot from row
to row, and from six to nine inches apart in the
row. Daisies and Primroses may be nearer than
that. Well tread or press the plants in, and if
the weather be hot and dry at the time, water-
ing will be necessary till new roots have been
formed.

The kinds that are best increased by cuttings are
Pansies, Violas, double Wallflowers, Thymes, Iberis,
&c.; and though a later date than June would do for
putting in cuttings of these, that is undoubtedly the
best time to get the finest and early-blooming plants.
Frames or hand-lights placed on a north border, and
the cuttings inserted in them, best insure a success-
ful strike. The cuttings need not be more than
three inches apart, because as soon as well rooted they
should be transplanted to a more open border, south
or west aspect, for in such a position only can they
develop that hardy and well-matured growth that
alone can insure early and free flowering. Mulching
and watering in very dry weather, and picking off
flowers and pinching out the points to encourage a
branching habit, are about all the details of culture

36

li7

needed till the plants are ready for transference to
their flowering quarters.

ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS,

Emperor and Brompton Stocks, Wallflowers, and
Sweet Williams are about the only kinds of biennials
that flower in time for spring bedding, and therefore
these kinds only are mentioned. They should all be
sown before the end of May. Any aspect will do,
but an eastern one is best. Sow in drills nine inches
apart, and if the soil be heavy, scatter a little lighter
and finer soil in the bottom of the drill and cover
the seeds with the same, then water with a fine rose,
and the process is complete. As soon as the plants
are sufficiently large to handle, transplant on to
well-prepared ground, the richer the better, and so
far apart from plant to plant that there shall be no
danger of the plants getting lanky or drawn, owing
to want of space; from four to six inches apart is
none too much.

The annuals named (the variety of which is ample
for spring bedding) do not need one-half the atten-
tion that biennials do. Sow for early spring flower-
ing from the middle to the end of September, and
on a rather poor soil, six or eight inches in depth;
and if the bottom be hard so much the better, as this
will prevent the extension of tap-root, and the plants
will then transplant with plenty of side-rootlets. No
pricking out is needed, but the seedlings should be
thinned out before there is any danger of injury from
over-crowding, and all attempts at premature flower-
ing should be momentarily checked by pinching out
the points. The soil being poor and shallow, should
the autumn be dry, mulching and watering will be
indispensable.

Bulbs, and Carpeting Plants for them.—
As to the former, we have Tulips, Hyacinths, Nar-
cissus, and Crocuses. The finest are those that are
imported, and they are all purchasable at a very cheap
rate ; but for all that, some may not be able to invest
yearly in them. This need not exclude their use, as
excellent results can be had by preserving the old
roots as follows:—Keep them in the ground till the
tops have quite died down, then lift and dry them, and
keep till planting-time in a cool dry place. When
they are again planted out, give them a rich soil—
well-decayed cow-manure, if possible—and they will
flower just as freely, but not be so large and fine, as
imported bulbs. The other bulbous plants named in
the list should, if possible, be left permanently in the
ground; or if this be impracticable they must be
transferred to the reserve garden, to be again trans-
planted as early as possible in the spring arrange-:
ments.

The carpeting or ground-work plants for bulbs, as

178

per list, may be increased at any time most conve-
nient between the time of lifting and the end of July,
but this is the latest period they can be doné, at
least to get them effective for spring bedding. When
the old plants are lifted, place them in any shady
spot, and keep them supplied with water till they can
pe divided or split up into small pieces that can be
pricked out with a pointed stick; the smaller the
pieces, so much more vigorously do all of them start
into growth. A warm border and rich soil are requi-
site, and the plants may nearly touch when first put
out, because all this class of plants should be en-
couraged to make a growth sufficiently dense to be
pared off with a spade, or turfing-iron, with a suffi-
ciency of soil adhering to render it unnecessary to
plant, but simply to press firmly into the soil, thus
producing immediate effect, and at the same time
aaving the labour of planting.

ORCHIDS.

By Witi1am Hue Gower.

Ansellia.—As a genus, this is characterised by

its oblong fleshy sepals, which are spreading and
free; the petals resemble them, but are broader
and straight. The lip is sessile, three-lobed, the
middle lobe the smallest and verrucose. The stems,
like pseudo-bulbs, are erect, terete, sheathing, bear-
ing towards the summit numerous plicate leaves.
Pollen masses, four, the two dorsal ones very small.
_ Ansellias are epiphytes naturally, but thrive best
under cultivation when grown in pots, and these
require to be large in order to accommodate their
numerous roots. Pot in peat and sphagnum, and
water freely during the growing season. East
Indian House.

A, africana.—A robust plant, attaining a height
of several feet; leaves plicate, dark green. The
panicle is produced from the summit of the pseudo-
bulb, pendulous, much-branched and many-flowered;
the sepals and petals yellowish-green, transversely
blotched with brownish-purple ; lip yellow, the side
lobes barred with purple. Its peculiar-coloured
flowers are very welcome during the winter months.
This plant is abundant on the island of Fer-
nando Po, and also on the mainland of Africa
opposite. A variety called gigantea, from Natal,
produces a very much larger and brighter-coloured
flower, although not distinguishable from the species
botanically.

A, africana, var. Rollissonii.This plant seldom
attains a height of more than twelve to fifteen
inches, The pseudo-bulbs are stout. The panicle is
small, but the individual flowers are much larger

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

than the normal form, and more spreading; sepals
and petals yellow, profusely blotched with purplish-
brown. Winter months. Natal.

Arpophyllum.—This genus contains a few very
handsome and distinct plants. They have slender
stem-like pseudo-bulbs, and thick, coriaceous, arching
leaves. The flowers individually are small, but they
are densely set upon long, erect, cylindrical spikes,
resembling in outline the brush of the fox.

Arpophyllums are. strictly cool-house Orchids;
one species (A. alpinum), which has never been
brought alive to this country, we are told is found
on the branches of alders on Mount Totanicapan,
in Mexico, at an elevation of 10,000 feet. Here it
luxuriates in an atmosphere too cold for the Méxican
Oak to exist. '

These plants have not been very popular with
Orchid-growers, on account of their blooming some-
what shyly: This, however, has been entirely the
fault of the cultivator, through keeping the plants
in far too high a temperature. Experience has
proved fully that if Arpophyllums are grown with
full exposure to the sun’s rays, and with very little
artificial heat, they thrive vigorously and bloom pro-
fusely.

Pot these plants in rough peat. Give a plentiful
supply of water during the period of growth, but
reduce it to a very small quantum when at rest. In
the growing season keep them in the Mexican
division, but remove to'the Peruvian House during
the resting season.

A. cardinale.—This is undoubtedly the most
beautiful of the species yet introduced, and at the
same time is extremely rare in cultivation. The
rhizome is creeping, pseudo-bulbs erect, stem-like,
some six to eight inches long, and clothed with
stout sheath-like scales; they bear a solitary arching
leaf, eighteen to twenty-four inches in length, and
upwards of an inch and a half in breadth; these
are thick and leathery in texture, and bright green ;
the erect flower-spike springs from between a large
sheath at the base of the leaf, and is upwards of a
foot in height: flowers dense, rather small, the sepals
and petals rosy-pink ; lip destitute of any fringe,
bright reddish-crimson. It blooms during spring
and early summer. Mexico and Guatemala.

A. gigantewn.—A bold-growing plant, with very
much the appearance of the preceding species; it is,
however, more robust, the leaves are longer and
broader, whilst its erect flower-spikes are longer
and more massive; flowers very numerous, : sepals
and petals rosy-lilac; lip ovate, fringed in front,
and deep rosy-purple. April and May. Mexico and
Guatemala.

A. spicatum.—This species has been introduced to

ORCHIDS.

cultivation nearly fifty years; it is decidedly the
smallest of the kinds here enumerated. The growth
and habit is similar to the others, but the spike
seldom exceeds eight or nine inches in height;
flowers dense, deep rosy-purple. Winter and early
spring. It is found growing on the Oak-trees in
Mexico, at an elevation of 7,000 to 8,000 feet.

Barkeria.—These plants are nearly allied to
Epidendrwm, from which they differ only in having
a broadly-winged column; they, however, form a
very natural section, and are all beautiful plants of
slender growth, well deserving the attention of
Orchid-lovers. Barkerias are best grown upon bare
blocks of wood, or at least with a very little sphagnum
bound on to fasten them. They make large fleshy
roots, and during the growing season must havea
bountiful supply of water. When growth is com-
plete, withhold the water to a great extent, only
giving sufficient to keep the slender, terete pseudo-
bulbs from shrivelling, but avoid starting the young
growth prematurely. The Mexican division is best
suited for these plants during the season of growth,
shading them somewhat, but keeping plenty of
moisture in the atmosphere for the roots to absorb.
After growth is finished, keep them somewhat cooler.
Barkerias are deciduous.

B. elegans—This is perhaps the most beautiful
species yet introduced to cultivation. Pseudo-bulbs
slender, fusiform, six to eight inches high, bearing
two or three narrow-lanceolate leaves; peduncles
slender, erect ; flowers drooping; sepals and petals
spreading, nearly equal, deep rose; lip large, flat,
creamy-white, with a large deep crimson blotch in
front; the raised disk yellow, ornamented with spots
and dots of crimson. September, October, and
November. Mexico.

B. Lindleyanum.—A_ somewhat taller and more
robust plant than elegans, the stem-like pseudo-bulbs
attaining a height of a foot or more, and bearing
numerous sheathing, oblong-lanceolate, deep green
leaves some three to five inches long; scape slender,
terminal ; flowers lax; sepals and petals similar, the
latter slightly the larger, of a uniform soft rich
purple; lip broad and flat, with a little point in
front (apiculate), same colour as the petals, except
the disk, which is white, with three narrow purple
lines. September and October. Costa Rica.

B. Skinnerti—This very fine species is found in
quite cool places in its native country. The stem-
like pseudo-bulbs are about twelve inches high, bear-
ing numerous lanceolate-acuminate leaves; scape
terminal, many-flowered, sometimes twenty to thirty ;
flowers large, flat, and spreading ; sepals and petals
nearly alike, the latter slightly broader, and all deep
xose-colour; lip ovate-acuminate, deep rosy-purpie,

179
with a few yellow lines towards the base. Winter
months. Costa Rica,

B. spectabilis.—In its native country this is called
“Flor de Isabel;” the stem-like growths bear two
to three oblong leaves; raceme terminal, lax, many-
flowered ; sepals lanceolate-acuminate; petals broader,
rosy-pink ; lip ovate, deep rose, dotted with crimson.
June and July. Guatemala.

Batemannia.—Originally established to include
a plant from Demerara (B. Colleyi) with inconspicuous
flowers, but latterly several fine species have been
assigned to it, and in some instances different genera
have been mixed up with the Batemannias. The
majority of the species are cool-house plants, which
require an abundant supply of water: indeed, they
should never be allowed to get dry; they are also
lovers of shade. Pot in fibrous peat and sphagnum
moss, and never allow any stagnant water or decay-
ing vegetable matter to remain about the roots.
Peruvian House, except when otherwise named.

B. BurtiiThe leaves of this plant are two-
ranked, oblong, ligulate, and tapering to a point,
about one foot in length, upwards of two inches in
breadth, and intense green: peduncles about six
inches long, bearing a single large flower on the
summit; flowers nearly three inches in diameter,
thick and waxy in texture; sepals and petals about
equal, spreading, oblong, tapering upwards, the lower
part bright yellow, terminating suddenly, and the
upper portion being rich cinnamon, with a few
regularly arranged spots of yellow on each; the
petals, in addition, have a large dark brown blotch
radiating from the base; lip three-lobed, the middle
one much the largest, white at the base, but same
colour in front as the sepals; the column is curved
over like a hood, white, tipped with green. This is
a very showy species, which should be placed in the
Brazilian House. Spring and summer. Costa Rica.

B. grandiflora.—Although a very handsome plant,
this species does not produce such conspicuous
flowers; pseudo-bulbs ovate, furrowed, supporting a
pair of large leathery leaves, which are broadly-
lanceolate and acute; the scape is short, bearing
several flowers; the petals are rather sinaller than
the sepals, all are spreading, olive-green, streaked
with bright brown; lip three-lobed, middle lobe the
largest, acute, and prettily fringed, white, streaked
with reddish-purple, rich orange at base; column
arching, winged at the sides. Spring and early
summer. New Grenada, about 4,000 feet elevation.

Bletia.—These are terrestrial Orchids, with de-
ciduous leaves. They have much the appearance of
Phajus to the casual observer, but differ from the
members of that genus in having a lip which 1s

180 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

jointed with the column and destitute of a spur;
they also resemble somewhat some of the Cymbi-
diums in habit, but differ from them in having round
and compressed corm-like pseudo-bulbs.

The majority of the species forming this family
are natives of tropical America, where they grow in
moist ravines and swampy places, but some few are
also found in the Eastern Hemisphere, among which
may be noticed B. hyacinthina, from China, and B.
hyacinthina albo-striata, from Japan.

Bletias do not require elevating above the rim of
the pot, but should be potted similarly to an ordi-
nary stove plant, the pseudo-bulbs being covered
with about an inch of mould. ‘The soil best adapted
for the growth of these plants is a mixture of leaf-
mould, loam, and peat in equal parts, with a little
sand added; drain the pots well, and during the
growing season water abundantly, but when the
leaves have fallen withhold the supply entirely, and
remove to a cooler temperature than that in which
they were grown. Brazilian House.

B. gracilis—Leaves oblong - lanceolate, plaited.
Scape branched, many-flowered; sepals and petals
reddish-lilac, lip purple. Autumn months. Mexico.

B. patula.—Leaves lanceolate, plicate, and’ dark
green; scape many-flowered ; flowers spreading, and
of a uniform dark purple. Early spring months.
Jamaica.

B. Shepherdii.—This is by some authors placed as
a variety of B. verecunda. It is, however, a dis-
tinct and handsome plant. Leaves broadly-lanceo-
late, plaited; scape erect; sepals and petals rich
rosy-purple ; lip same colour, with a streak of yellow
down the centre. Winter months. Jamaica.

B. Sherrattiana.—This is undoubtedly the finest
species in cultivation. Leaves lanceolate - acumi-
nate, plicate; scape erect, bearing nine to twelve
‘flowers, which are large and spreading, and of a
uniform rich deep rosy-purple, the lip being orna-
mented with three parallel golden-yellow lines.
Spring months. New Grenada.

Bolbophyllum.—An extensive genus of epi-
phytes, deriving their name from bolbos, “‘a bulb,”
and phyllon, “a leaf.” They are confined to the
tropics of Asia and Africa, and are nearly allied to
Dendrobium ; indeed there is little structurally to
distinguish them saving the two lateral bristle-like
teeth which terminate the column.

Sarcopodium is a genus containing a few species
which are usually referred to Bolbophylium, and as
the differences are so slight we have retained them
here.

Although this genus contains upwards of a hun-
dred. species, very few are worthy of cultivation for
their beauty. There are, however, many that are

very curious in their formation, which will afford
deep interest to those who delight in the wonderful
as well as the beautiful in nature. These plants
should be placed upon a block of wood, with a little
sphagnum moss round them; water well during the
growing season, but give them a good period of rest.
East Indian House. ;
B. barbigerum.—This exceedingly curious plant is
dwarf and spreading. The small pseudo-bulbs
produce a single thick and leathery oblong leaf.
The appearance of the flower cannot be better
described than in the words of the late Dr. Lindley
himself. He says: “The three sepals are narrow,
and taper to a point; pale green externally, dull
chocolate-brown in the inside ; the petals are minute,
slender pointed scales, shorter than the column, and
not discoverable without disturbing the sepals.
The column is dwarf, and terminated in part by two
long curved horns. The anther is a little round lid,
beautifully studded with crystalline points. The lip
is one of the most extraordinary organs known even
among Orchidaceous plants. It is a long, narrow,
flexuose, sharp-pointed body, closely covered with a
yellow felt; just within its point there is a deep
purple beard of exceedingly fine compact hairs; on
the under side, ata little distance from the point of
the lip, is another such beard; and besides these
there is, at the end of the lip, a brush, consisting of
very long purple threads so exceedingly delicate that
the slightest disturbance of the air sets them in
motion, when they wave gently to and fro like a
tuft of threads cut from a spider’s web; of the last-
mentioned hairs, some are of the same thickness
throughout, others terminate in an oblong club, so
that when the hairs are waving in the air (and I do
not know that they are ever entirely at rest) a part
floats along gracefully and slowly, while the others
are impelled by the weight of the glandular ex-
tremities to a more rapid oscillation. Nor is this
all; the lip itself, with its yellow felt, its two beards,
and its long purple brushes, is articulated with the
column by such a very slight joint that to breathe
upon it is sufficient to produce a rocking movement
so conspicuous and protracted, that one is really
tempted to believe that there must be something of
an animal nature infused into this most unplant-
like production.” Summer months. Sierra Leone.
B. Dayanum.—A close-growing plant, producing
somewhat globose pseudo-bulbs, which are greenish-
purple, and support a single, short, thick coriaceous
leaf, which is oblong-obtuse, deep green on the upper
side, purplish below ; raceme short, three and four-
flowered ; sepals obtusely-ovate, large and spreading,
fringed at the edges with long yellow hairs, tawny-
yellow, ornamented with numerous rows of reddish-
purple spots; petals narrow, linear-oblong, fringed

ORCHIDS. 181

‘VY fp.

at the edges, reddish-purple, with a narrow marginal
band of tawny-yellow; lip small and inconspicuous,
same colour as the petals. Summer months. Moul-
mein.

B. Lobbii (Sarcopodium).— Pseudo-bulbs ovate,
some three inches high, smooth, and light green,
bearing a single oblong, thick, and leathery leaf,
flower large and spreading, upwards of four inches
in diameter ; sepals lanceolate, the dorsal one acumi-
nate, soft yellow, streaked with lines of purple
Gots, lateral ones falcate, streaked with purple dots,
and shaded with same colour; petals same as dorsal
sepal and the same colour; lip somewhat cordate,
recurved, yellow, freckled with orange. Summer
months. Java.

B. psittacoglossum (Sarcopodium).—Another very
handsome dwarf-growing plant, pseudo-bulbs ovate,
enveloped in a beautiful fibrous network, and
bearing a solitary, broadly-oblong, thick, and fleshy
leaf, which is deep green on both surfaces ; scape
short, seldom more than two-flowered; sepals and
petals ovate, nearly equal in size, yellowish-green,
and streaked with red ; lip three-lobed, ovate, middle
lobe recurved, yellow, mottled with red. Summer
months. Moulmein.

_B. reticulatum.—This species must certainly take
first rank in this family, which is not remarkable for
the beauty of its members. The pseudo-bulbs are
small, situated at intervals along a slender stem-like
rhizome ; leaves solitary, petiolate, cordate in shape,
with a sharp point; the ground-colour pale green ;
the veins being dark green give the whole a beauti-
fully reticulated appearance, from which its name is
derived; spike short, bearing about two flowers ;
sepals and petals white, streaked with broad lines
of reddish-purple, dorsal sepals largest ; lip curiously
recurved, white and yellow, spotted with purple.
July and August. Moulmein.

Bollea.—A small genus cf plants, bearing much
affinity with the older genus Zygopetalum, but yet
sufficiently distinct, from a horticultural stand-point
at least, to merit the separation. Bolleas are plants
with the habit and appearance of Batemannias and
Pescatorias, and require about the same treatment.
Peruvian House.

B. Lalindei.—This is an extremely beautiful
species. It is, however, apparently very vari-
able in colour; leaves oblong - lanceolate,
tapering to a point, upwards of a foot long by
two inches broad, plaited, and bright green ;
peduncle much shorter than the leaves, bear-
ing on the summit a single spreading flower,
upwards of two inches in diameter, and thick
and fleshy in texture; sepals broader than the
petals, varying in colour from rose to bright

BLETIA PATULA.

182

violet ; the tips and lower edges of the lateral sepals
pale yellow; lip ovate, hastate, the edges recurved,
orange-yellow; the disk furnished with numerous
yaised plates; column hooded, deep purple. Summer
and autumn months. New Grenada.

B. Patinii._-A less robust plant than the preced-
ing; leaves lanceolate-acuminate and deep green;
peduncle pendulous, one-flowered ; sepals and petals
all spreading, the lateral sepals much the larger,
light blue, with pale yellow tips; lip furnished with
numerous raised plates on the disk, yellow; throat
deep blue; column hooded. Summer months. New
Grenada.

Brassavola.—This genus commemorates Antonio
Musa Brassavola, a Venetian nobleman and botanist.
{t is characterised by the sepals and petals being
wbout equal in size and free. The lip is entire,
hooded, and encloses the column; column clavate,
and eared in front ; pollen masses, eight.

The species comprising this family are not first
favourites with Orchid-growers, probably on account
of their want of colour; and as they get much neg-
lected, they have not bloomed freely. Brassavolas
are found in the tropics of America only, and do not
like cold treatment. They thrive best on blocks of
wood, and enjoy an abundant supply of water when
growing. Most of the species are fragrant. Bra-
zilian House.

B. acaulis—A dwarf plant with straight, terete,
dark green leaves, and little or no stem; flowers
solitary, very large, white, freckled with rose ; sepals
and petals linear-acuminate, about equal; lip large,
cucullate. Summer months. Central America.

B. eucullata.—This species has long and slender
terete leaves, from the base of which the long
peduncle springs, bearing a single large and hand-
some pure white flower; sepals and petals about
equal, long and strap-shaped ; lip cordate-acuminate,
lengthened out into a tail-like point, and fringed
round the edges. Summer months. West Indies.

B. Digbyana (or, more correctly, Lelia Dighyana).—
In habit this plant resembles a Cattleya or Lelia, with
its erect pseudo-bulbs and single, thick, fleshy leaf,
which is light green and very glaucous; flowers
solitary ; very large sepals and petals, strap-shaped,
creamy-white; lip large and spreading, the sides
forming a hood over the column, white, deeply fringed
round the edges. Winter months. Honduras

Other species of Brassavola are glauca, Martiana,
cuspidata, lineata, venosa, &c. &c., all of which have
white or greenish-white flowers.

Brassia.—This genus, named in honour of Mr.
Brass, a plant collector, contains some twenty or
thirty species and varieties. It is extremely near

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Oneidium, from which it is only distinguishable by
its very short earless column, and entire bilamellate
lip, and by the elongated lateral sepals. In Oncidiwm
the inflorescence is usually branched, but in Brassia
it is invariably simple, with the flowers arranged in
a two-ranked manner.

In the earlier days of Orchid culture anything
belonging to this order was considered a great
rarity and curiosity, and in those days Brassias
found great favour in the eyes of gardeners and
amateurs. Now, however, that the number of species
have so largely increased, it has become absolutely
necessary to discard some of the less showy kinds,
and many of the members of this genus have been
put on one side. There are, however, some few
species with their quaint and weird-like forms,
combined with their peculiar colours, which are
well deserving of a place in every collection.

Brassias may be grown in either pots or baskets.
We prefer the former, as they are robust and bold-
growing plants, and require more water than can
conveniently be given them under other treatment.
Pot in rough peat fibre and sphagnum moss.

One or two species of Brassia (B. cinnamomea and
B. giumacea) are found at considerable elevations
growing with Odontoglossums, &c.; the others are all
from warmer localities, and should therefore be
grown in the Brazilian House.

B. brachiata,—This, although not a gay-coloured
flower, is very remarkable for its long tail-like
sepals, which often measure twelve inches from the
point of the dorsal to the end of the lateral ones.
Pseudo-bulbs, oblong, compressed, bearing two short,
obtuse leaves; raceme many-flowered; sepals and
petals linear-acuminate, the latter much elongated,
pale green, richly spotted with brown; lip large,
heart-shaped in the upper part, and furnished with
several smooth thin plates. Winter months. Guate-
mala.

B. caudata.—As its name implies, this species has
the sepals lengthened out into very long tail-like
appendages, whilst the petals are short, not longer
than the lip, which is ovate, oblong, subulate, and
slightly hairy towards the base; colour fawny-
yellow, profusely blotched with brown. June and
July. West Indies.

B. Lanceana.—In this species the lateral sepals
are not so much elongated; the flowers are bright
yellow, spotted and blotched with brown, and sweet-
scented. B. Lanceana and its varieties are nearly
allied to B. caudata, but the sharp awl-like termina-
tion of the lip is entirely absent. Spring and early
summer, Surinam.

B. Lanceana, var. macrostachya.—The flowers of
this variety are much larger than the type, lateral
sepals are pointed, and five inches long, sometimes

OKCHIDS. 183

even more; sepals and petals rich yellow, with a
few brown spots or blotches; lip pale yellow. This
variety usually flowers twice in the season—in spring
and again during the autumn months. Demerara.

B. Lawrenceana.—This species differs from B.
Lanceana in being destitute of the toothed plates on
the lip. The flowers are bright yellow, with cin-
namon-brown spots, and sweet-scented. Autumn
months. Brazil.

B. Lawrenceana, var. longissima.—A grand variety,
and perhaps one of the very best of the genus;
spikes some two feet in length, many-flowered; the
sepals and petals rich deep yellow, marked towards
the base with a few reddish-purple blotches; the
sepals lengthened into tail-like appendages some
seven inches or more long; lip ovate - lanceolate,
some three inches long, soft pale yellow, spotted
with purple towards the base, which is furnished with
two slightly hairy ridges. September. Costa Rica.

B. maculata.—Flowers large, pale yellow, with a
white lip, which is spotted with purple. Spring and
early summer. Jamaica.

B. verrucosa, var. grandiflora.—A form much larger
than the type; it produces a many-flowered scape ;
sepals and petals greenish-white, spotted and blotched
with blackish-purple; lip white, bearing numerous
green warty protuberances. Spring and early sum-
mer. Guatemala.

Broughtonia.—A genus nearly allied to Lelia
and Cattleya. It is thus characterised :—Column
distinct, or at the very base united with the ungui-
culate lip, which is lengthened at the base into a
tube, connate with the ovary; pollen masses, four,
parallel, with a granular caudicle reflexed upon the
masses. It has not yielded kindly to the persuasive
powers of the cultivator up to the present time,
perhaps on account of its treatment; it naturally
grows fully exposed to the sun and open to all the
winds that blow. Therefore the Mexican division
should suit it best.

B. sanguinea —The only species, that appears to be
almost peculiar to the islands of Cuba and Jamaica,
and should be grown upon a block, with a little
sphagnum moss. Although somewhat difficult to
grow, the colour is rare and attractive, and amply
repays for any extra attention. Pseudo-bulbs some-
what compressed, dark green, bearing a pair of
oblong-acuminate coriaceous leaves of the same
colour ; peduncle terminal, about a foot high, ten to
twenty-flowered ; flowers of a uniform deep crimson,
slightly tinged with yellow at the base of the lip.
June and July. Jamaica and Cuba.

‘Burlingtonia.—A genus of epiphytal plants
with small pseudo-bulbs and oblong, coriaceous

leaves. Named in honour of the Countess of Bur-
lington. They are nearly allied to Rodriguezia, but
have some marked points of distinction, such as a
very large and deeply two-lobed lip, the sepals and
petals being furnished with a claw-like appendage,
and in its convolute flowers, as well as natural
habit. Burlingtonias are all natives of the warm
paris of Brazil, and thrive best upon blocks of wood,
or in wooden baskets; very little sphagnum should
be used about them, as the thin wiry white roots do
not appear to like confinement. Cork is frequently
used to fasten these plants upon, but our experience
is not favourable to the use of cork for this purpose,
the plants never remaining long in a healthy state
on this material.

These plants enjoy an abundant supply of water
and a moist atmosphere during the growing season,
and, although less will be necessary when they are
at rest, water must never be entirely withheld, or
the plants will soon shrivel. When this occurs it
is frequently very difficult to restore the plant to its
former vigour.

The white scale is a great enemy to Burlingtonias,
and must be sharply looked after whenever the
plants are taken down to be watered, the sheathing
base of the leaves providing a safe retreat for this
pest from the eye of the careless cultivator. Bra-
zilian House.

B. candida.—Pseudo-bulbs small, bearing two to
three oblong - obtuse, coriaceous, dark green leaves;
spike pendulous, dense ; flowers large, entirely white,
like frosted snow, saving the upper part of the lip,
which is citron-yellow; sepals and petals obtuse;
lip hastate, and furnished with two rows of fleshy
ridges. ‘The flowers are deliciously sweet, appearing
frequently twice in a year—in April and May, and
again towards autumn. Demerara.

B. decora—This beautiful species is very ramb-
ling in habit; it forms long slender stems, from
which at intervals are produced small oval-pseudo-
bulbs, bearing a single lanceolate leaf, which is deep
green; the base of the pseudo-bulb is partially
enveloped in a small sheathing leaf; spike erect,
bearing five to ten flowers, converging, and forming
a hood, soft rose-colour, spotted with red; lip large
and spreading, deeply two-lobed, and pure white;
spur short. It blooms at various seasons of the year,
but usually in winter. Brazil.

B. decora, var. picta.—A beautiful variation from
the normal form ; indeed, the species appears to be
very variable. In this plant the leaves are shorter
and more acute; the flowers are also produced in
greater numbers, and are deep rosy-red, spotted’ and
blotched with deep purple. September and October.
Brazil.

B. fragrans,—A compact plant, with smell pseudo-

184

bulbs, and long, sheathing, dark green, coriaceous
leaves ; raceme many-flowered ; flowers very fragrant,
resembling Hawthorn, large and pure white, middle
of the lip pale yellow. Apriland May. Brazil.

BURLINGTONIA DECORA.

B. Knowlesit.—A beautiful dwarf plant which suc-
ceeds best upon a block of wood. In general ap-
pearance it resembles B. venusta, but differs from it
‘in having the white sepals and petals suffused with
rosy-pink. Autumn and winter. Brazil.

B. venusta,—This is the commonest species in cul.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

'

tivation, but nevertheless very elegant. It is a
dwarf and compact grower. Pseudo-bulbs small,
bearing several dark green sheathing coriaceous
leaves, and pendant racemes of pure white flowers,

—*
—» >

pci i

un E
slightly fragrant. Sepals and petals pellucid, the
lip stained on the disc with pale yellow. The
racemes of bloom are admirably adapted for deco-
rating a lady’s hair for ball or evening party. The

flowers are produced at short intervals almost all the
year round, Brazil.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

Br Wriiram Ear.ey.

SIMULTANEOUS CROPPING.

So Cropping is no new plan

or practice, the exigencies of space having
forced many growers to adopt its principle in con-
nection with a limited number of subjects. In the
following remarks I explain how more than one crop
can be grown together on given areas with reason-
able success.

Asparagus and Lettuces.—Asparagus-beds
are generally maintained so rich by surface mulch-
ings, &c., with decomposed manures, as often during
rainy seasons to cause a soured soil. An excel-
lent corrective of this is to grow a crop of surface-
rooting vegetables thinly upon it. As few subjects
suffer so much from the occasional droughts of early
summer as do Lettuces, these latter also succeed
wonderfully well sown upon such a richsurface. It
is a profitable practice, therefore, to sow seeds of the
Paris White Cos Lettuce broad-cast over the beds
during the last week of March in each year. When
the young seedlings are large enough, thin them out
greatly, and in such manner that only a single plant
remains at even spaces all over each bed, and as far
as possible between the exact crowns of each Aspara-
gus-plant. Very fine-hearted Lettuces will form, but
it will be absolutely necessary to pull them imme-
diately they are ready for use, or a greatly additional
and unnecessary tax will be made upon the beds.

Asparagus and MRadishes.—The several
forms of Turnip Radishes, but more especially the
more highly appreciated Olive-shaped or French
breakfast Radishes, will succeed admirably as a
second early spring-sown crop upon Asparagus-beds.
The seeds must be sown thinly; or if they come
up too thickly or irregularly, must be immediately
thinned out. Whilst the crop does not greatly tax
the bed, it develops quickly into crisp succulency,
owing to the open, airy, exposed sites of Asparagus-
beds. Jt is important, however, that the entire crop
be drawn immediately it is large enough for use.

In very limited gardens, a thin sprinkling of Let-
tuces and Radishes may indeed be made together,
which, with reasonable and proper thinning out and
quick use, would yield a welcome supply of both.

Beans (Broad) and Potatoes.—It is a very
old practice to grow Broad Beans thinly in or along
with Potatoes in the row—a plan which, owing to
the downward-rooting habit of the Broad Bean, de-
tracts very little from the Potato crop. The Broad
Beans should be planted thinly, to avoid shading the

185

Potatoes. At the time of planting the Potatoes,
dibble in the seeds between the sets in the row at
distances of about fourteen inches apart, or rather
more, and along every other row only. It will be
desirable when dibbling each seed in to beat the soil
down over it firmly with the dibble, as this parti-
cular crop is partial to a firmer root-hold than is
desirable for the Potatoes.

Immediately Broad Beans show flower, remove the
upper end of the shoots—that is, top them. This
simple process will give encouragement to the crop,
whilst it will throw less shade upon the Potatoes.
By this method the Dwarf Mazagan Broad Bean
may be sown and grown along with the earliest
kidney or round Potato crop on the south aspect,
giving to all who are partial to such produce an
early and plentiful return from a limited area.

Beans (Broad) and Seed-beds.— With many
market-garden farmers a belief exists that the Broad
Bean proves, when grown between the young plants
in seed-beds, consisting of any variety of the exten-
sive family of Brassicas, a sure antidote against the
Turnip fly, which very often, and especially during
periods of aridity, devours and is very injurious to
them. Whether this be so or not, certain it is that
such things may be conveniently grown together, on
the score of greater economy of space, and in the
early months of the year to insure earliness by pro-
tection to young seedling plants.

For instance, Broad Beans may be sown in any
limited-size bed, eight inches asunder all ways, either
in the autumn or during the month of January.
Thus a bed about three feet wide by five feet long
would take thirty plants or more, which is about the
number required in practice to give a dish of pro-
duce at a gathering.

Subsequently, or early in the month of March,
sow seeds, as requisite, amongst this young Bean
plantation, of Cabbages, Coleworts, Brussels Sprouts,
Broccoli, &c., of the tenderest kinds. First deeply
hoe the ground, sow such seeds as are desirable, and
sprinkle over with a little rich soil. The growing
Bean plants will prove a protection from cold winds
and late spring frosts.

Beans (Broad) and Radishes.—By an ar-
rangement similar to the above, the earliest out-
door Radish-bed may be greatly protected. It is
remarkable how great a protection such a system of
studded uprights affords.

Both in this instance and in connection with the
seed-beds above explained—especially in allotment
grounds, or where protected sunny southern aspects
do not exist—it will be good practice in connection
with all to sow during either November or January

186

two rows of Broad Beans across a “quarter” at
the distance of thirty inches asunder. Sow them
if possible in a line north-west by south-east.
Radishes and other somewhat tender kinds sown
between these two rows will then receive great pro-
tection from the more northerly winds and cold
generally. In these instances long-rooted Radishes
may be sown by contrast with such as may be
grown upon the Asparagus-bed above referred to.

Beans (Broad) and Parsley.—Parsley, where
it is much in demand, can readily be grown on the
same ground as the Broad Bean, especially so the
sowings of the latter made during mild weather in
the months of February and March. This may also
be a convenient system to follow in connection with
early sowings of Lamb’s Lettuce, Australian Cress,
Chervil, &c. The Bean-stalks may be readily pulled
up so soon as the crop is gathered, leaving the space
free for the other crops.

Beans (Broad) and Ridge Cucumbers.—
Wherever the Ridge Cucumber is grown plentifully
and well under field culture, it is nursed by rows
of Rye sown at proper distances in rows on
either side. In instances where Ridge Cucumbers
or Gherkins are grown in the open quarters of
garden or allotment ground, similar protection may
be given to the young seedling plants of the two
latter, by sowing two rows of Broad Beans three feet
apart during autumn or very early spring. During
the subsequent month of May, a nice rich soil may
be added and dug into the ground, so as to forma
ridge between the rows of Beans, into which the
Cucumber-seeds may be inserted in rows, such Beans
forming a screen from cold winds during such time
as the young seedling plants form, and at the subse-
quent early stages of growth.

Celery and Lettuces.—It is an excellent plan
to throw out the Celery trenches as early as ground
can be spared for the purpose. Upon the banks of
soil between the trenches Lettuces may be sown or
transplanted. This is especially a good place for
transplanting the latter in the summer or autumn.
The depth of good soil thus placed beneath them
tends to keep the ground more moist and cool, thus
producing finer heads than could grow on shallower
soils. Whenever Lettuce-seeds can be sown in such
a position early enough, the seedling plants may be
thinned out efficiently; such as are drawn being
used for dibbling out, to secure a larger bulk and
longer succession of produce.

Celery and Endive.—The foregoing remarks
concerning Lettuces apply with equal force to both

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

the curled and smooth-leaved or Batavian Endives.
Sown and treated similarly, the best of results are
obtainable. By the time that the more permanent
earthing up is requisite in regard to the Celery, it
will be necessary to take up these .duplicate crops
and store them in pits, frames, or similar places, for
winter protection.

Celery and Radishes.—The best Radishes,
sold in immense quantities in the metropolis, are
grown upon the mounds between Celery trenches
thrown out early on the largest of suburban Celery
farms. In such a position they succeed admirably,
and few better practices are within the reach of
small growers. The sowings of autumn Cabbage-
plants for spring use may also, where space exists, be
conveniently grown on such sites.

Brussels Sprouts and Potatoes.—Short-
ness of garden ground forces upon growers many
expedients. That favourite vegetable, the Brussels.
Sprout, requires to be planted out early, and a whole
season of uninterrupted growth, to insuro nice size-
able sprouts. Spare ground is not always to hand
at the particular season when seedling plants are
large enough for transplanting, yet it is important
to do so, that they receive no check. Wherever
Potatoes are planted at reasonable distances apart,
especially early sorts, or such as have not too ram-
pant haulms, room may, under such circumstances, be-
found for a few rows of Brussels Sprouts. Choose
strong young seedlings, and do not plant too thickly.
Good results often follow. These remarks apply
occasionally also to Kales and winter Broccoli.

Cauliflowers and Peas.—Upon the prin-
ciple that staked and growing early rows of Peas.
afford protection and warmth in the very earliest
months of spring, it is an excellent practice to trans-
plant autumn-sown Cauliflowers, whether out of
frames or bell-glasses, between the earliest rows: it
may be done about the first week in April, or sore-
what later if the weather is very cold or inclement.
This situation is, inoreover, a desirable one, on the
score that the site has been deeply and well prepared
for the Pea crop, and is therefore very suitable for
Cauliflowers. Besides, it is a quick spring crop, and
will come off the ground as soon as the earliest Peas,
thus giving room for succeeding subjects in a quick
and convenient manner. Besides which, the Cauli-
flowers will make their growth and prepare for
flowering, before the Pea crop becomes too top-heavy
or overshadows them too much.

Cabbages and Potatoes.—In some of the
best-managed market-garden farms (the one particu-

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

larly to which a confrere and myself awarded the
first prize in a competition for prizes offered by
the Royal Agricultural Society of England), it is a
practice to plant Cabbages a little wider than usual
in view of securing a fine crop of exceptional pro-
duce, and at the earliest season convenient to plant
rows of Potatoes of strong-growing kinds between
them, so that when the Cabbages ure drawn: or used
a Potato crop is ready for moulding, and a change,
as if by magic, takes place upon the ground. This
simple system is one which may well be followed
wherever the space of ground is too limited for crop-
ping in the usual way. Dig up the ground in a row

‘narrowly between each two rows of Cabbages, re-
Moving any very large leaves which spread too
greatly, and dibble the Potatoes ina row between.
The variety of Potato known as Reading Hero, being
so strong and upright, is well suited for such a pur-
pose. So soon as the Cabbages are used, hoe or fork
along their whole standing-ground, and subsequently
draw the soil up to the rows of Potatoes.

Late Broccoli and Vegetable Marrows.—
The Vegetable Marrow is usually nursed and coaxed
upon manure-heaps, following pot-growth, into ex-
cessive leaf-formation, and late limited fruit supplies.
The system of growing them, indeed of sowing
the seeds and growing throughout upon bare and
exposed fields, followed by market-garden farmers,
gives as a rule a much earlier and better crop. In
connection with all late spring Broccoli crops some
will “ head in” earlier than others. Pull such plants
up for use, then place a couple of forkfuls of good
manure upon the vacant space, dig it in deeply and
well, and sow therein three Vegetable Marrow seeds
an inch or two apart. These if sown during the
last week in the month of April will come up, form
strong plants, and be prepared to range over a good
space of ground when the general crop of Broccoli
is removed. Meantime, if the kind of Broccoli be a
late one, the slowest ones to “head in” will afford
good protection to the Marrows.

Peas.—Limited areas may be made the most of
by sowing two sorts of Peas—viz., tall and dwarf
growing together. This suggestion is nota new one,
and answers well, Thus the dwarf Pea, Maclean’s
Blue Peter, may be sown in the same row as Dr.
Maclean’s Marrow. By this means the former would
come in for use first; the haulm may be pulled up
with the last gathering from it, and the whole space
devoted to the ultimate full development of the
latter. Again, William I. and Telephone may be
sown together when the sowings are deferred until
the month of March, by which means the former
will come in early, and the other follow in quick

187

succession. By pulling up the haulm of the former
when the last pods upon it ure ‘ fit,” room will be
given to the latter, of branching habit, to spread
and develop its fine podding capacity. There are
several other examples which may be united in a
similar manner. The seeds of both varieties selected
to. be grown together should be sown in equal quan-
tities, and the ground well prepared for them. A
nice mulching of decomposed manure along both
sides of the row, after the final earthing up and
sticking has been done, will make them do all the
better.

Onions and Lettuces,—The often-practised
process, consisting of growing a few Lettuces upon
Onion-beds, has much to commend it, especially as all
Onion-beds are, or should be, prepared deeply and
well, in a manner to suit the growth and higher de-
velopment of this invaluable member of the salads.
So soon as the bed is sown with Onion-seeds, scatter
a few seeds of any desirable kind of Lettuce over the
bed. Every care must be taken, however, ultimately,
when the seedlings are large enough, to thin them
out to a foot or more apart, and to choose such as
are to remain owing to their being placed between
the rows of Onions, and not likely to cause excessive
injury to any part of this, the primary, crop. Such
Lettuces should also be drawn for use when young,
or so soon as fit for use in a small state.

Spinach and Peas.—The Spinach crop being a
rapid-growing one, requiring besides good deep rich
ground and early use, is often conveniently grown
between two rows of Peas. The seeds are simply
drilled into the ground in a row between the Peas
at the time of sowing, the hoe being used simulta-
neously between both crops in all after-culture as
needed.

Rhubarb and Sea-kale.—By growing these
two crops near together, or as regards dwarf-
growing early Rhubarb, one row of it planted
alternately with two rows of Sea-kale, an opportu-
nity will the more conveniently exist for forcing
both of these together, where the method of doing
so consists in the use of pots for covering the
crowns with, and fermenting materials. The upper
or leaf surfaces of such Rhubarb-leaves as encroach
unduly on the space allotted to the Sea-kale may be
cut away occasionally, letting the stalk remain to
die down, when no injury would be done to the ulti-
mate strength of the stools.

Mushrooms and Sea-kale.—By keeping the
Mushroom house shut up close and darkened, Sea-
kale roots placed in a bed of soil within it force

188

admirably. The same results may be secured by
planting the crowns in a bed of soil therein, well
watering them and covering over to the depth of
a foot or more in dry light materials or sand.
The same method will insure the necessary early
crops of Rhubarb and Chicory. During the winter
months an internal heat of from. 60° to 70° will be
necessary to insure this.

Mushrooms and Melons.—At such time as
‘any crop of Melons are “set,’”? and so far advanced
as to necessitate the withholding of root-waterings, if
pieces of spawn-brick are inserted into any heap of
fermenting material that is employed to grow the
Melons upon, a crop of Mushrooms may ultimately
be produced.

Strawberries and Onions.—These two crops
running abreast upon the same area —must at
first sight be considered almost as incongruous as
any two that could well be harnessed together, and
yet they are much alike in regard to time and
space.

Instead of sowing Onions at the usual distances
apart, sow them in drills at two feet or thirty
inches asunder. ‘Treat in the usual way until
July, and as soon as the earliest runners can be
obtained from Strawberry-beds or rows, take them
off so soon as partially rooted, and plant between
each row of Onions. The ground being kept
clear between the Onions, and well cultivated
‘during the summer, may first be slightly hoed
over. The plants speedily lay hold and grow
rapidly, and by the time the Onions are cleared off
there is a good crop of Strawberry-plants on the
ground, and these are found to fruit exceptionally
‘well the following year.

Nor is the benefit of this dual culture con-
fined to the Strawberries: the Onions reach their
fullest size and highest quality under this simple
method of abnormally wide culture. This plan,
however, may be modified at will, thus: two
rows of Onions, nine inches or a foot apart, may
be grown in the centre of the space between each
two rows of Strawberries. Of course, so soon as
the Onions are removed, the space between the
Strawberries is kept clear and well cultivated, and
in the autumn a liberal mulching of manure may
be applied, which greatly (strengthens the plants,
and adds to the bulk and quality of the crop of
Strawberries next year. When runners are late,
those of last season may be used, and these may
be planted soon after the Ouions are sown or fairly
up. But once this systom is fairly adopted, there
is seldom any scarcity of fine runners, these being
chiefly obtained from the young plante,

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS.

By RicuarpD Dean.

The Gloxinia.—Who shall attempt to depict
the beauty and psefulness of the Gloxinia? The
original species of Gloxinia was imported from South
America about 1815, and the gardeners of that day,
finding that it produced seeds, set about raising
seedlings, and from these have sprung a race of
hybrids of great beauty and variety. Having been
imported from the warm regions of South America,
it is a stove plant, requiring stove treatment to
bring it to perfection. The generic term Gloxinia
is derived from being named after P. B. Gloxin,
a botanist of Colmar; and it is interesting to observe
that the original form of G. speciosa had the tube
of the flower deflexed or drooping. But a race
has been obtained, originating in a garden sport,

‘in which the blossoms stand erect; and now the

varieties of the Erect-flowered section greatly exceed
those of the Drooping-fiowered. But as to where
and with whom this new departure originated, we

‘have no data to show.

There is this peculiarity about the Gloxinia : that,
by means of a little judicious management, it can be
had in flower for a considerable period of the year.
By not a few growers, a quick system of cultivation
is adopted ; that is to say, they sow their seeds in
January, February, and March, filling pots with a
very light, sandy soil, and spreading the seed, which
is very minute, thinly over the surface. The pots
are then placed on a brisk bottom heat, and a piece
of glass placed over each. The seed soon germinates,
and, as soon as the tiny plants are large enough to
handle, they should be pricked off into other pots
of fine, light, sandy soil, putting some twelve or
fifteen plants in a pot, placing these, in their turn,
in bottom heat, and encouraging the tiny plants to
grow as rapidly as possible, By doing this, by
potting the plants singly into small pots as soon as
it can be done, and again shifting them into forty-
eight-sized pots, bulbs will be obtained that will
flower in July, August, and September, and by sow-
ing a little seed again in July, there will be young
plants to flower the following spring. There must
be a moist, brisk heat to bring on the plants in, or
they cannot be had in flower in the short time named
above. Very few Gloxinias are now named—that is,
named as sale varieties. The strains in cultivation
are so good, that seedlings are equal to named varie-
ties in not a few instances. One great advantage
obtained from seedlings is, that they secure an
almost endless variety of colour. By means of care-
ful fertilisation, many new shades and combinations
of colour have been introduced, and they are geno-
rally singularly handsome. The Erect-flowered

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS, 189

varieties are most popular, for as the tube of the illustration represents one of the older varieties,
flower is turned upwards, one can look right into it, | which not a few high authorities consider superior to

GLOXINIA MACULATA.

and take in its peculiar beauty at a glance. Some many more modern ones; it is still to be found in
of the Drooping-flowered varieties are very hand- some gardens, and has of late been specially com-
some, and it is well to have in a collection a number mended and again sought for, like many other fine
of each, as it lends a desirable variety to it. The old flowers.

190

A suitable soil is a matter of great importance.
The best is a light compost made up of soft fibrous
loam, with a little peat and silver sand added. It
will be observed that we do not recommend the
addition of manure; it is best to water with some
weak manure-water, twice a week, at the flowering
season. ‘This adds to the size and intensifies the
colours of the flowers. And let it not be forgotten
that the plants love shade. Many plants are spoiled
by permitting the sun to shine upon them; they
must have a moist atmosphere if they are to be
healthy and flower well. We have seen not a few
plants destroyed by keeping them in too dry an at-
mosphere ; they soon become covered with red spider,
and the leaves turn yellow. A moist atmosphere,
with a temperature of about 60° to 65°, suits the
plants, but on no.account must they be allowed to
suffer for want of water. We not long since saw in
Messrs. Sutton and Sons’ nursery, at Reading, many
hundreds of plants, in small forty-eight-sized pots,
about five or six months from seed, and carrying
from six to fifteen beautiful flowers, some of them of
enormous size, and finely proportioned.

The Gloxinia being a stove perennial, the leaves
die away at the end of the summer, the roots resting
during autumn and winter. How they can best be
preserved during the dead season of the year, is a
desirable inquiry. It must be carefully done, as
losses frequently occur during the winter. It is im-
portant that the plants should not be ‘dried off” too
quickly ; they should be placed in a light airy posi-
tion, and then, by a gradual reduction of moisture,
the leaves will fall off naturally. When the leaves
have withered, and the soil become pretty dry, the
roots should be turned out of the pots, and placed in
boxes or large flower-pots, in a mixture of cocoa-
nut fibre and peat in equal parts, keeping them on
a shelf in a dry shed, in an even temperature of
about 50°. Excessive dryness must be guarded
against, while too much damp is equally objection-
able. It will be necessary to pot these in early
spring. The bulbs should be taken out of the
boxes, and placed on a cocoa-fibre bed, in a brisk
moist heat; those that are the quickest in showing
signs of growth should be potted first into small
pots, treated much as one would seedlings, be care-
fully shifted into other pots, and be kept near the
glass, as, with warmth and moisture, light is essen-
tial to a rapid and luxuriant growth.

A neighbour of ours makes a rare display every
summer by planting out a bed of Gloxinias in a
stove-house. He states that the plants grow so
much more luxuriantly, and flower so much more
freely, than they do in pots, lasting also much
longer in flower. This is a very happy idea. One
result is, he is able to cut a large number of flowers

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

for decorative purposes within-doors ; and, to adopt
his own phrase, he “‘ can cut and come again.”

The following and other choice varieties, though
everywhere known in gardens as Gloxinias, are
strictly all forms of Sinningia speciosa :-—

ERECT-FLOWERING VARIETIES.

Avalanche. Lady Musgrave.
Boule de Feu. Lord Derby.
Brunette. Louis van Houtte.
Crassifolia alba. Mr. Gladstone.
Comet. Mrs. Bause.
Diadem. Ne Plus Ultra.
Duchess of Connaught. Purity.

Fabiola. Vesta.

Flambeau. William Goldring.

Erect Varieties, with Srorrep FLowERs
(a very beautiful section).

Argus. | Lady Marriott.
Ariadne, Madame Hugo.
Clytis. Marian,
Cordelia. Mrs. Atkinson.
Coronet. Mrs. Peploe.
Jubilee, Rob Roy.

VaRIETIES WITH Droopinc FLoweErs.

Duchess of Teck. Marquis of Lorne.

Gamos. Miss H, de Rothschild.
Insulaire. Prince Leopold.
James Barber. Sir John Lubbock.

The Hollyhock.—The botanical name of this
noble plant is Althea rosea, and it belongs to the
natural order Malvacee. In the botanical catalogues

“it is described as a hardy biennial with red flowers,

blooming in August, indigenous to China, first
known in England in 1573. But how did it come
to acquire the common name of Hollyhock? The old
English writers spelt the word Hollihocke, Holyoak,
and Holyock, whence it is supposed to have been
derived from the Saxon Holihoc. The word seems
somewhat difficult to explain. The originally intro-
duced Hollyhock was, no doubt, a single form; but
it was soon taken in hand and cultivated. Gerarde
states that at the end of the sixteenth century it
was sown in gardens almost everywhere. About
1724 it is described in Miller’s “ Gardener’s Dic-
tionary ” as a plant of considerable variety, bearing
red, white, purple, black, and other coloured flowers;
and there were double varieties in those days. One
of the first of English florists to take in hand and
improve the Hollyhock was Charles Baron of Saffron
‘Walden, a shoemaker by trade, unversed in garden
literature, but with a great liking for the flower.
By concentrating his attention on this plant alone,
he soon distanced all competitors, and originated
flowers of more perfect form, greater substance,
closer arrangement of petals, and greater proximity
of flowers on the spike. Later on, the Pauls of
Cheshunt, Chater of Saffron Walden, and others,
took up the work of improvement, and were 50

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS.

successful in raising new and improved varieties,
that they became as approximately perfect as it
seems possible for them to be.

For some years past a peculiar and destructive
fungus, named Puccinia malvacearum, has worked
sad havoc with the Hollyhock, destroying the leaves
and corroding the flower-stalks. It was at first
supposed to be more virulent in dry than in moist
weather; but later experience now points to the
reverse. It is worthy of note that though the
summer of 1884 was a hot and dry one, the ravages
of the disease were much less marked in this
than in preceding years. One of the best means of
neutralising the effects of the fungus is to deeply
trench the soil in which the plants are to grow,
placing plenty of cow-manure just below the roots ;
and, after planting, mulching the surface with a good
dressing of the same.

Any good old gurden soil well trenched will grow
the Hollyhock well. If the subsoil be a wet one, the
plants will thrive in it during summer, but will
doubtless suffer in winter, as wet at that season of
the year is injurious to them. Planting out should
be done in March and April, according to the
weather, and they will bloom finely in August if
carefully attended to. Hollyhocks make an imposing
back line to a mixed border; but if any one desires
to grow a collection to perfection they should form a
bed or plantation, and be planted not less than four
feet apart each way, or not less than three feet apart
in the row; if grouped in beds the plants should
be the same distance apart. Hollyhocks will grow
well in a place where the shade of distant trees can
fall upon them, but they should not be near enough
for the roots of the trees to rob the Hollyhocks of
any moisture or nutriment in the soil. In May or
June, when the spikes of bloom have grown a foot
or two high, they should be thinned out if good
flowers are required—and it is all the more ne-
cessary if the plants are weakly; if they are extra
strong and vigorous, as many as four spikes may be
allowed to remain; should the grower want some
especially fine flowers for exhibition purposes, but
one spike should be allowed to a plant; and before
the spikes become too high they should be carefully
staked, and securely tied to the stakes, at the same
time allowing the plants perfect liberty to grow.
The most robust-growing variety does not require a
stake more than four or five feet in height. As a
matter of course, to have fine flowers there must be
special cultivation, and the soil about the plants
should be mulched with short dung; and liquid
manure, or guano, rendered as soluble as possible
in water, may also be administered twice a week.
We may give these further directions to intending
exhibitors: to grow the flowers finely, cut away

191

all lateral shoots thrown out from the spike, thin
out the flower-buds if too much crowded together,
and take off the top of the spike when it has
developed three feet of flowers. As a matter of
course, by topping the spike the grower increases
the size of the individual flowers, but he will also
shorten the duration of the blooming of the plant.
This is one of the sacrifices which have to be made
in order to obtain show-flowers.

There are three ways of propagating the Holly-
hock — by seeds, by cuttings, and by dividing the
roots. No one should sow seed unless from a good
strain, and it is best to do this in January or
February, in pans of light free soil. At this time
of the year, the seeds germinate freely in a gentle
bottom heat. As soon as large enough, they should
be potted, singly, into small pots, and re-potted into
a larger size as soon as they. gain strength and size;
and, when they have filled the pots with roots, be
planted out in well-trenched and highly-manured
ground about the middle of May, doing this, if
possible, during showery weather. A large number
of the plants will flower the same year, and thus a
season’s growth is saved. The general practice is
to sow the seeds in July or August, placing the pots
or pans in a cold frame, and then planting out
in autumn in good ground, to flower the following
season. Propagation by cuttings is the best mode of
obtaining plants of good varieties, and the practice
may be carried on from March to October. Most of
the old plants give an abundance of young shoots
early in spring, and, as soon as these become a little
hard, they may be cut off close to the stem, and
four or so placed round the sides of a five-inch pot,
in a light sandy soil. They should be plunged in a
close frame, where in a few weeks they will have
formed new leaves and roots, and may be potted off,
each in a separate four-inch pot. As fresh shoots
form on the old plants, they may be treated simi-
larly up to midsummer, after which period it is best
to leave the wood to become quite hard before
making any more cuttings. Propagation by division
of the roots is best carried out in autumn, imme-
diately after the flowering season. A large plant
may sometimes be divided into several, but in
general it is best not to exceed three’or four. Every
separate piece should carry with it a good share of
roots, and these can be potted up and kept in a cold
frame during the winter, and then planted out in
spring, or else planted out in autumn in light well-
drained soil.

As we have briefly referred to Hollyhocks being
exhibited at flower-shows, we may observe that
there are two ways of showing them: as single
flowers, and as spikes of bloom. Of late years, the
ravages created by the fungus tended materially to

192

reduce the number of blooms seen at flower-shows ;
but the last year or two has seen a decided increase,
both in point of numbers and quality. For the in-
formation of exhibitors, we may state that, in judg-
ing spikes of flowers, the first point noticed is the
individual flowers, the perfection of which consists
in the petals being thick of substance, the edges
smooth and even, the florets occupying the centre
full and compact, closely arranged, rising high in
the middle, and of globular form, with a stiff guard
petal, forming the base of the flower and ex-
tending about half an inch or so in proportion
to the size of the centre ball; so that the different
parts of the flower present a uniform appearance.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

A few years ago we saw the foregoing varieties
finely grown at Mr. W. Chater’s Hollyhock nursery,
at Saffron Walden; and we have reason to believe
they have all been preserved to the present day.

The Pansy or Heartsease.— The dear old
Heartsease of our gardens is Viola tricolor. Scho-
lars inform us that Viola is from the Greek Jon ;
Nicander, in his “ Geoponics,” states that the Gre-
cians called it Jon because certain nymphs of Ionia
gave the flower first to Jupiter. Others, however,
say that it was called Jon because when Jupiter
had turned the young female whom he loved into
a cow, the earth brought forth this flower for

Group or PansIEs.

The arrangement of flowers on the spike needs to be
regular, not being crowded together in a confused
mass, nor loosely hanging with open spaces between.
each bloom, but so disposed that the shape of each
may be distinctly seen when fully blown, the upper-
most covering the top; and nothing can add more to
the beauty of the spike than a few green leaves
between the flowers, which give it an elegant and
graceful appearance. A further important point is
colour ; the brighter, stronger, and more distinct the
flowers the better.

We have reason to fear that several of the fine
named Hollyhocks of a few years ago have become
lost to cultivation, so we give the names of a few
leading varieties subject to this contingency :—

Alba superba, Le Grand.
Alfred Chater, Leviathan,
Beauty of Walden. Peri.

Bullion, Prince Arthur.
Elegans. Supreme.
Incomparable. ‘Walden King.
Joshua Clarke, ‘Walden Queen.
Leah, William iter,

her food, which, being made for her sake, received
her name. Such is the fabulous account of its
name. The Viola tricolor has been known in this
country by a variety of names, as Herb Trinity, in
allusion to the three colours frequently contained in
one flower; Heartsease, Pansy, Love in Idleness,
Call me to you, Call me Sweet, and Three Faces
under one Hood. And now why called Heartsease ?
It is considered that this term should be accepted
as meaning “a cordial,” as in Sir Walter Scott's
‘‘Antiquary,” ch. xi. : “buy a dram to be eilding and
claise, and a supper and heartsease into the bar-
gain,” and given to certain plants supposed to be
cardiac ; at present to the Pansy only, but by some
authorities to the Wallflower equally. The most
probable explanation of the name is this :—There
was a medicine “good,” as Cotgrave tells us, “ for
the passions of the heart,” and called gariofilé, from
the Cloves in it (Z. carophylla). The Wallflower |
also took its name from the Clove, and was called
girofiée, from the same Latin word. The cardiac

FLORISTS’

qualities of the medicine were also extended to it,
and the name of Heartsease; and, as the Wallflower
and the Pansy were both comprehended among the
Violets, the name of Heartsease seems to have been
transferred from the former to the species of the
latter now called so. Pansy is undoubtedly from the
French pensé, “thought.” Many will remember poor
Ophelia’s melancholy gift, ‘‘Thereis Pansies, that’s
for thoughts.” There is no plant, perhaps, that has
obtained so many names and curious sobriquets.

The Heartsease is considered to be indigenous to
this country. An ancient writer states that the
Pansy is found growing in a wild state on Mount
Baldus in Italy ; and Lobel says that it grows wild
in Languedoc, in France. Itisalso said to grow wild
in Japan. Nevertheless, it is generally considered to
be a native of England, at the first found growing
upon the tops of high hills. Gerarde states that in
his time he had not seen it so growing, from which it
appears that the plant was not at that period very
general in this country, in a wild state,if evena
native.

The Heartsease is one of the most popular flowers
in our gardens. It ornaments those of the rich and
poor alike. We have turned to an illustrated gar-
dening work, published fifty years ago, to take note
of some of the best varieties of Pansies cultivated
in those days. Though thought a great deal of at
that time, they are represented by what we should
consider poor, thin, ungainly, and weakly-coloured
flowers, that would now be looked upon as weeds.
But the work of improving the Pansy was only
commencing in those days. Since then, under the
fostering care of the fiorists, wonders have been
performed ; and the Pansies of the present day are
as really perfect as one can well imagine them to be.

There are three sections of Pansies. First come
the English or show varieties, which are divided into
White grounds, Yellow grounds, and Selfs. In the
White grounds there is a large, dense, central dark
blotch round the eye; then a ring of white, cream, or
straw-colour, denominated the ground; and this is
edged with blue, purple, or plum, or purple-maroon.
The Yellow grounds have pale or deep gold grounds
in the place of the white, and are belted or margined
with bronze, reddish-bronze, and velvety maroon.
The Selfs are either white, primrose, yellow, blue,
maroon, or black; but the blue Selfs are generally
regarded as bedding Pansies; all the varieties of this
class have been raised in the United Kingdom, and
especially in Scotland, where the Pansy has long
been a foremost florist’s flower.

Next come the Fancy or, as they used formerly to
be called, Belgian Pansies. They are generally of
strong growth, very large in size, and extremely rich
in colour, partaking of curiously blended shades of

37

FLOWERS. 193

white, purple, gold, crimson, mauve, blue, orange, red,
and various tints. It is not to be wondered at that
they are so popular, and especially in spring and
autumn, when the weather is cooler and moister, for
it is then the rich colours shine out with exceeding
beauty. These Fancy Pansies appear to have origi-
nated in France or Belgium thirty years or more ago.
Then they came into the hands of the English florists,
by whom they have been greatly improved, and in
Scotland especially, very fine varieties are usually
raised. Continental florists have not been backward
in the work, and though their strains are inferior to
those found in this country, they yet contain many
fine varieties, especially of a striped character.

Then there are what are called Bedding Pansies
and Violas. These are generally of hardy, stocky,
frec-branching growth, the flowers in most cases
self-coloured, and they are very useful in the flower
garden during spring and summer. For some time
there appeared to be. an intelligible distinction be-
tween Bedding Pansies and Bedding Violas; but
they have now grown so much the one into the
other, that it is difficult to say what are Pansies and
what Violas. Violas have been bred up from such
species as FT. cornuta and VT. lutea, and the former
with its pretty mauve flowers is still grown in many
gardens, where it is very effective. Bedding Violas
are generally of dwarf, close, bushy, free-branching
growth, continuous in bloom, standing hot weather
well, and having small well-formed flowers, in most
cases self-coloured, without central blotches, and
being produced with remarkable freedom.

Pansies and Violas of all sections are readily
produced from seeds, and they can be sown at any
time of the year. It is 4 good plan to sow some
seed early in spring, and some more about June,
which will give two crops of flowers in a season.
We sow our seeds in pans of light soil, thinly, and
only just covering them, and then place them ina
cold frame, where the seeds soon germinate, and the
plants grow on into size. As the well-being of the
plants, after they are planted out to flower, depends
much on their being well-rooted, we adopt the plan
of pricking off the young seedlings into other boxes
three inches apart, and when they have made nice
balls of roots, with the soil adhering, plant them
out in a well-prepared bed in the open ground when
the weather is dull and showery. The Pansy and
Viola alike throw out many thread-like roots Which
penetrate a good distance into the soil im ”search
of food. Therefore the soil should be deep, free, and
gritty, so that the roots can travel freely in it. Grit
is essential to the well-being of the Pansy; road sand
and sweepings, horse-droppings, decayed vegetable
soil, refuse turves, sandy loam, coarse sand, gravel
siftings, are all favourable to the good development

194

of the Pansy. When they are planted it should be
done deeply, and the soil pressed firmly about the
roots, as Pansies like a firm soil, provided the under-
neath portion be of a quality in which they can
root freely. And as the plants are continually being
renewed by means of fresh growths thrown up from
the roots, it is well to top-dress the plants two or
three times. We do this by taking some refuse
soil from the potting-bench, mixing some sand and
leaf-mould with it, also some decomposed manure
and cocoa-nut fibre, laying it about the plants, and
especially close to the stems, to the depth of two
inches. This has a wonderfully sustaining and fer-
tilising power during hot dry weather.

Pansies can also be propagated by means of
cuttings made of the young growths put forth in
July and August, and pricked out in sandy soil in
any cool shady place. A temporary bed made up
under a north wall, that is the side of the wall facing
the north, suits them well, or they can be put in pots
of light sandy soil, and the pots placed in a cold
frame. But the soil must be pressed firmly about
the cuttings in all cases. These quickly make root,
and by October make excellent plants for placing
out in autumn. Another good way of propagating
is by lifting the plants at the end of August or Sep-
tember, choosing a moist time for doing so, and
dividing them, in doing which it will be seen that
many of the shoots have made roots, and a vigorous
plant will sometimes make fifty or sixty when so
divided. If these are planted out in a prepared bed
they will soon grow into useful plants. Any young
plants so obtained in autumn are useful in the flower
garden, because they flower early in spring.

Any one who may be disposed to grow a few
Pansy blooms for exhibition must give them special
treatment. The bed should be raised a little above
the level of the ground, and some good manure
and leaf-mould mixed with the soil. The top-
‘dressing used should be decidedly richer than for
ordinary plants; and a fortnight or so before show
flowers are wanted for exhibition, they will be all
the finer if some weak liquid manure be given once
or twice a week, In the case of White and Yellow
ground Pansies, the great thing is to have the
belting or marginal colours as perfectly defined as
possible, and, to secure this, it is necessary to keep
the blossoms shaded from the sun.

A good selection of English show Pansies will be
found in the following.

Yzttow Grounps.

Amy. Jobn Paton.
Bronze Queen. Lord F. Cavendish,
Chancellor. Master Ord.

David Dalgleish. Mrs. Melville.
James Black. Perfection.

James Malcolm. Sultan,

John Harper. Thomas Ritchie.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Wuitzt Grounps.

Brora. Jessie Laird.
Cupid. Lady Frances.
Devonia, Mina,
Elsie Thomson. Miss Meikle.
Fair Maid. Mrs.’ Gair.
Janet Lees. Mrs. Henderson.
J. Douglas Dick. Wizard,
SELFs.

Dark. White and Cream.
Andrew Miller. Alpha.
Artemus. Christina.
Dr. Caird. Flag of Truce
James Skinner. Gazelle.
Prince Leopold. Highland Mary.
Rev. D. Taylor. Jenny Anderson.
The Mahdi. Mrs. Galloway.
W. B. Hope. Mrs. Wm. Wilson.

Peerless.

Yellow. Queen of Whites.
Archibald Rolland.
Canary. Blue.
Dr. Masters. Alexander Scott.
Gem. Bive Beard.
Gomar. Blue Stone.
Maranta. Dr. Gray.
Mrs. Menzies. W. J. Rawlings.

Fancy Pansizs.
Alexander McKinnon. Jobn Bryce.
Bella Forbes. J. D. Stuart.
Catherine Agnes. Lord Rosebery.
Charming. Mary Anderson.
Donald Sinclair. Miss Lizzie Matthews.
E. W. Smith. Mrs, Forbes.
Endymion. Mrs. Barrie.
George Carlow. Mrs. Birkmyre.
Havelock. Princess Beatrice.
Helen Wood. Robert Duncan.
Harry Veitch. The Pilots.
John Hampton. William Melville.
Beppinc PansiEzs.

Adonis. Le Grand. a
Beauty. Startler.
Cloth of Gold, yellow. ‘Warden.
Crossflat Rival. White Queen, white.
Holyrood, blue.

Beppine Viowas.
Archie Grant, rosy-purple. Goldfinder,
Bessie Clark, light mauve. yellow.
Blue Bell, blue. [white. Pilrig Park, white.
Countess of Hopetoun, ueen of Purples, purple.

deep golden-

Countess of Kintore, purple- een of Spring, yellow.

blue and white. ouvenir, rich lavender.
Duchess of Sutherland, True Blue, blue.
bright lilac.

FERNS.

By Jaues Britten, F.L.S.

The Cheilanthes.—Even among the Pteridee,
a tribe of ferns’ containing such pre-eminently
garden genera as Pteris, Adiantum, Pellea, and
Lomaria, the Cheilanthes holds « high position.
Assuredly few more beautiful ferns exist than some
of the members of this highly interesting and rather
extensive genus. The species, which are scattered
over the tropical and temperate regions of both
hemispheres, number over sixty. They are much
varied in aspect, most being dwarf-growing tufted
plants, with more or less compound fronds, the
under surface in some cases being covered with gold

FERNS.

cr silver-colouread powder, as in Gymnogramma.
In size, habit, and general aspect Cheilanthes ap-
proaches very closely to Nothochlena, the principal
difference between the two being in the presence of
an indusium in the first-named genus, whilst in the
latter the sori are non-indusiate, or naked. Owing,
however, to the different degrees in which the
margin becomes attenuated or reflexed, it is at times
very difficult to draw the line between the two.
This will readily explain why in different gardens
some of the plants here mentioned are referred to
Nothochlena. As it would be useless to enumerate
a large number of
species, however
beautiful or interest-
ing many whose
names we omit may
be, only a selection
of those which have
already found their
way to cultivation is
given below. The
names adopted are
those contained in the
last edition of the
“ Synopsis Filicum.”
C.. argentea has del-
toid, tripinnatifid
fronds, three to four
inches in length by
two inches in
breadth, surmount-
ing wiry, polished,
dark chestnut-brown
stipes, abont six
inches long. The
upper surface of the
frond is green, the
lower is thickly covered with white waxy powder.
This species has a wide range, being found in
Siberia, from the Altai to Kamschatka, Japan, China,
the Malayan Archipelago, and Khasya. Taken asa
whole, there is a wide range of forms of this species,
the fronds differing a good deal in size and shape,
and in the thickness and colour of the ceraceous
coating. The variety chrysophylla, from Khasya,
has narrower and longer fronds than the type,
densely coated with yellow powder on the under
side. C. chlorophylla, instead of being of a densely-
tufted habit, like the last-named species, has a stout
thizome covered with chaffy scales, strong, erect,
glossy, dark chestnut stipes, twelve to eighteen
inches long, and ovate-lanceolate finely-cut fronds,
from twelve to eighteen inches long by four to eight
inches broad : it is confined to South America, where it
occurs from New Grenada southward to Monte Video.

wy

SS

195

C. farinosa is a near ally of the first-named
species (C. argentea), but has lanceolate fronds of a
subcoriaceous texture, the under surface being
densely coated with a pure white powder; in size it
is large, the fronds sometimes attaining a length of
twelve inches by a breadth of six inches at the
broadest part. Asa mere list of the countries in
which C. farinosa is found would occupy far too
much space, its geographical distribution may be
summed up in the words ‘Everywhere in the
tropics.” C. fragrans is so named on account of the
delightful odour of newly-mown hay given off and

‘ retained for a long
time by the bright
green fronds when
dried. This also is
of tufted habit, with
wiry stipes, one to
three inches long,
densely clothed with
reddish-brown linear
scales, the ovate-
acuminate fronds be-
ing green on both
surfaces, and two to
three inches long by
an inch in breadth;
it ranges from South
Europe to Afghan-
istan and North-
western Himalaya
(at elevations of
5,000 feet above sea-
level). The South
African C. hirta has
strong, erect, tufted
stipes, two to four
inches long, densely
coated with spreading, bright reddish-brown, woolly
hairs; the ovate-lanceolate, finely-cut frond is more
or less hairy on both surfaces, and measures from
four to twelve inches long by two to five inches
broad. In C. lendigera the upper surface of the
peautifully-cut fronds is smooth, and the lower
hairy; the strong, erect, polished, chestnut-brown
stipes are from three to twelve inches long, and are
clothed with a copious rusty-brown tomentum ; the
lanceolate fronds are from four to twelve inches long
by two to four inches broad. This species is a
native of Mexico (where it ascends to elevations of
11,000 feet above sea-level), southward to the Andes
of New Grenada and Ecuador. C. microphylla has a
slightly-creeping rhizome, and wiry, zigzag, polished,
dark chestnut-brown stipes, two tc six inches long.
and ovate-lanceolate fronds, green and glabrous on
both surfaces, three to nine inches in length by two

196 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

to three inches in breadth; this is a native of
tropical America, from Mexico and the West Indies
southward to Peru. C. myriophylia has strong,
wiry, densely-tufted stipes, three to six inches long,
thickly clothed with pale woolly tomentum and
ovate-lanceolate fronds, four to six inches long by
one and a half to two inches broad, cut into an in-
finite number of small roundish bead-like segments.
The rachis is also clothed with tomentum, like the
stipe; the upper surface of the frond is green and
pilose, the
lower densely
matted and
scaly. It isa
native of tro-
pical America,
and has also
been lately
discovered in
the Neilgher-
ries. C. elegans
is a mere form
of this species, ,

can scarcely have too much light, and should in
all cases be placed as near to the glass as possible.
Only during very bright sunshine, when the young
fronds are being developed, is any shading necessary.
Constant ventilation is also a requisite. Good
fibrous peat, or a mixture of that and leaf-mould,
with sharp sand and a number of pieces of sandstone
or lime rubbish, in order to insure rapid drainage, is
all that is needed in the way of soil. They probably
all do much better when planted out amongst stones,
in a porous
compost, close
to the glass.
A collection
in good health
under similar
conditions to
those above
sketched may
be seen
planted out
on one of the
shelves of

with the ulti- the Tempe-
mated seg- rate Fernery
ments re- in the Royal
versed pear- Gardens,Kew.
shaped, in-
stead of The Glei-
roundish. chenias. —
The tropi- The genus
cal American Gleichenia,
C. radiata has containing
atrong, erect, about thirty
glossy, black- species, and
ish, tufted the _nearly-
stipes, twelve allied one,
to eighteen Platyzoma,
inches long, CHEILANTHES ELEGANS, with a single
with six to representative
nine pinnae, from tropical

radiating from a common centre, similar to the
spokes of a wheel.

Cultivation—In a state of nature nearly all the
Cheilanthes inhabit dry rocky situations, and many
of them come from considerable elevations. If
these facts are borne in mind, and treatment founded
on these data followed, success in cultivation will
not prove difficult of attainment. All are espe-
cially impatient of too much water at the roots, and
syringing overhead is particularly injurious, both to
those with hairy fronds and the ones with the gold
or silver-coloured dust on the under surfaces. All
do well in a cool or temperate house, and should
not be grown in company with ferns which require
any great amount of atmospheric moisture. They

~ and sub-tropical Australia, together constitute the

sub-order Gleicheniacee, one of the most interesting
and singular, as well as one of the most handsome,
groups of ferns. In Gleichenia the involucre is
absent, the sori are dorsal, of few (from two to ten)
capsules; these open vertically, and are surrounded
by abroad, transverse, complete ring. The caudex,
in the majority of the species, is creeping, and the
stem dichotomous. The fronds are rigid, gener-
ally large, and dichotomously branched, frequently
bearing axillary buds. ‘The distribution of the
genus is a rather wide one, as species are found
in both hemispheres, principally throughout the
tropical regions. A good many have not yet found
their way to cultivation; those mentioned in the

FERNS.

following list are the best and most distinct of those
which are now to be met with in British gardens.

G, circinata is a dwarf species, with the lobes of
the pinnz ovate or subrotund, more or less glaucous
beneath ; the capsules are superficial, three or four
in number, and the branches and rachis are either
smooth or clothed with a chaffy pubescence. C. cir-
cinata glauca is 4 handsome form, with the young
growths and the under surfaces beautifully glau-
cous. It differs from the type, too, in its fronds
being of a
thicker _ tex-
ture, and in
the plant be-
ing altogether
of more robust
habit. This
makes a
splendid ex-
hibition plant.
In a wild
state, G. cir-
cinata has
been dis-
covered in
Australia,
Tasmania,
New Zealand,
New Caledo-
nia, and Ma-
lacca. In
some nurse-
ries and gar-
dens it is
found under
the names of

197

where it is a common fern. The variety alpinu.
from the high mountains of Tasmania, New Zealand,
and the islands of the Malayan Archipelago, differs
from typical G. dicarpa in being very much smauler
and more compact in habit, and in the ferruginous
rachis being clothed with chaffy scales. The entire

fronds in this form only measure from three to
twelve inches in height, and the plant is one of the
best for the cool fernery and for an in-door rockery
of limited extent.

G. dichotoma is a most distinct
species, with
zigzag, repeat-
edly dichoto-
mously or
even trichoto-
mously bran-
ched stipes,
the ultimate
branches bear-
ing a pair of
forked pinne;
a distinct pair
of pinne also
arises from
the base of
the forked
branches (not
of the frond).
The segments
are never de-
current. The
fronds vary in
length from
two to four
feet, and are
bright green

G.microphylla, above and
G. semives- Lia glaucous be-
is and a GLEICHENIA CIRCINATA. [ie aN neath. : a
Spelunce. G. species is al-
Cunninghami, most universal

from New Zealand, has from two to four cap-
sules in a sorus, and erect, leathery, fan-shaped
fronds, which attain a height of about three or four
feet ; in colour these are a bright green above and
very glaucous bencath. In its native country this
fern is known as the Umbrella Fern. Unfor-
tunately this handsome species is somewhat rare,
owing to the difficulty experienced in propagating
it, or even in establishing imported roots. G. di-
carpa has scandent, dichotomously divided fronds;
the branches are pinnate, and the pinne are di-
vided into small orbicular segments, with recurved
margins. The capsules are about two in number,
and are concealed within the almost slipper-shaped
lobes. It is a native of Australia and New Zealand,

in tropical and sub-tropical regions in both the Old
and New Worlds, and occurs as far north as Japan.
As might be expected, on account of its very wide
geographical distribution, « considerable number of
slightly varying forms are met with; they differ in
the size of the pinne and the shape of the segments.
in being more or less glabrous or densely tomentose
beneath, in the texture of the fronds, &c.; but the
pairs of accessory pinnz at the base of a fork are
invariably present. Perhaps G. dichotoma succeeds
best in a stove temperature, but it grows well under
cool treatment. G. flabellata, from Australia, Tas-
mania, and New Zealand, has sub-membranous,
dichotomously fan-shaped branches, and very pro-
liferous fronds, which sometimes attain a height of

198 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

five feet and a circumference of about twelve feet.
It is of tolerably easy culture, and makes a very fine
exhibition plant. G. longissima is a magnificent
species, recently introduced from Japan, with tall,
branched, gracefully drooping fronds of a delicate
light green on their upper surfaces, and glaucous
beneath. The young growths are densely clothed
with very dark chaffy scales. In addition to Japan,
G. longissima is found in China, Bengal, the Malay
Islands and Peninsula, the Sandwich Islands, West
Indies, New Grenada, Mexico, and Guatemala.

Just as G. dichotoma is the solitary representative
of one well-marked section of the genus, so is G.
pectinata of another. It is common everywhere in
tropical South America, and is not to be confounded
with any other species. The stipes are zigzag,
branched, the branches bearing from one to three
pairs of forked divaricating pinne. The segments,
as in G. dichotoma, are never decurrent. It is
hardly so strong a grower as the species just named,
neither are the fronds so many times divided, but
they are much more glaucous beneath. Stove treat-
ment seems best adapted to attain success with G.
pectinata. The South African G. polypodioides is a
comparatively recent introduction to British gar-
dens; the lobes of the pinnew are ovate, and the
capsules, three or four in number, are sunk in a
cavity forming a flat-topped sorus. Both on account
of the beautiful light green of the upper surface of
the beaded fronds, and the slender graceful habit,
this is readily recognised and distinguished from
any other of the Gleichenias in cultivation. G.
pubescens, unfortunately 4 somewhat rare plant in
British gardens, is abundant enough in tropical
America, and is a rather variable species; the lobes
of the frond are more or less decurrent, and the
branches and rachises are either naked or clothed
with woolly tomentum and scales, the latter condi-
tion being that most generally met with in gardens.
In the tropical fernery this grows rapidly, and soon
forms a specimen of great beauty. 4G. rupestris,
from Port Jackson and North-west Australia, has
glabrous fronds of coriaceous texture; in habit it is
more dense and symmetrical than most other species.
The reddish-purple stems contrast rather strikingly
with the beautiful rich green of the upper, and the
very glaucous colour of the under surface of the
fronds.

Cultivation.—Except for the species which are
specially mentioned as doing best in the temperature
of a stove, all the Gleichenias thrive well in a cool,
airy house in which the temperature during winter
is not allowed to descend below 45° Fahr. Even
some of the thoroughly tropical kinds succeed fairly
well in company with, and under the same treatment
as, those which require to be grown in the cool

fernery. During the period of growth very liberal
supplies of water are necessary at the root, but
syringing overhead should not be practised at any
time. With an atmosphere fairly moist such a
course is not needed, and the fronds last much
longer than when periodically wetted. As the
species are evergreen and frequently last half a
dozen years or more, increasing in size the whole
time, owing to the development of the buds in the
axils of the forks of the branches, it is important to
prevent injury to them, and to keep the plant clear
of scale, which is sometimes a cause of considerable
trouble, particularly in warm houses. When grown
in cool, airy, light structures, scales and other insect
pests do not prove nearly so troublesome. Most of
the Gleichenias thrive best in fibrous peat and silver
sand ; and asallare shallow rooters, they should be
grown in well-drained pans, in preference to pots.
The stronger growers like an admixture of good
fibrous loam and pieces of charcoal. As a rule pro-
pagation is effected by dividing the clumps, but
Messrs. Veitch have been successful in raising stocks
of G. circinata, G. rupestris, &c., from spores. A
goodly number of species, however, have not yet
been raised from spores in this country, and an in-
teresting field is open to the gardener in this line of
work. A considerable period elapses before the
spores develop into plants with characteristic fronds,
and, indeed, before the prothallia spring into exis-
tence; still, with care, no great difficulty should be
experienced in obtaining a stock by means of spores.
This is all the more desirable as even old, well-
established specimens do not take kindly to being
divided. Few ferns make more splendid exhibition
plants than the Gleichenias, and good large-sized
specimens can be grown with but limited root-room,
a great advantage when the plants come to be moved
about much ; moreover, they travel remarkably well.

The Genus Pteris.—Accepting the somewhat
comprehensive views of specific distinction adopted
by such pteridologists as the late Sir William
Hooker and Mr. J. G. Baker, the number of species
belonging to the genus Pteris is about a hun-
dred. A very considerable proportion of them, how-
ever, have not yet been introduced to cultivation,
and only a selection of the most desirable and
distinct of those which are to be met with in
English gardens are given in these pages. Not
a fow of these are amongst the most useful and
least exacting of garden ferns. The genus, as under-
stood by the author of the “Synopsis Filicum,”
comprises several groups which have been, and even
now, by some authorities, are still regarded as
genera. The genus, as restricted by some authors,
to the species in which the veins are. all free, the

y FERNS.

stems czespitose, and the involucre single, contains
about fifty well-marked kinds; as representatives of
this section we may mention P. arguta, cretica,
jiabeiiata, laciniata, longifolia, quadriaurita, serrulata,
ana tremula, Of the group Pesia, with free veins, a
creeping rhizome, and a more or less distinctly
double involucre, only four species are known, and
one of these is the common Bracken, P. aquilina, one
of the most widely distributed of all ferns; a second
is the handsome New Zealand species P. scaberuda,
one of the most graceful of cool-house kinds. In
Doryopteris, characterised by the small sagittate or
subpedate fronds, the veins anastomose copiously ;
Jess than a dozen species are known, which are re-
ferred to here; of these P. palmata and P. sayittifolia
are not unfamiliar examples. About five-and-twenty
species belong to the section Litobrochia, which, with
the general habit and aspect of Pteris proper, has
fronds with copiously anastomosing veins. In
addition to the sections already mentioned, Am-
phiblestra, Campteria, and heterophlebium are also
now included under Pteris.

Altogether Pteris is 4 cosmopolitan genus, and
includes plants of almost every kind of division and
venation.

STOVE KINDS.

There are comparatively few species which abso-
lutely require stove temperature for their success-
ful management. Most accommodate themselves
readily to either stove or green-house temperature.
In the case of widely distributed species, those
individuals introduced from a tropical climate would
no doubt thrive better in warmer houses, whilst
examples of the same species brought from tempe-
rate latitudes would most likely prefer the cooler
atmosphere and the general conditions which are
obtained in the green-house.

P. comans is confined to the Southern Hemisphere,
where its geographical range is a rather extended
one; it has naked, erect, glossy stipes, surmounted
by bipinnate fronds of a thinly herbaceous texture ;
the rachis and both surfaces are smooth. P. crenata
is a distinct and handsome species, with dark green,
rather leathery, bipinnate fronds from a foot to a
foot and a half in length, by six to nine inches in
breadth ; the specific name was given on account of
the crenated margins of the pinne. This is found
in Hindostan, from the Himalayas to Ceylon, Chu-
san, and Loo-choo Islands; southward to tropical
Australia ; eastward to Samoa and Fiji. In general
aspect P. deflera, from tropical America, comes
between P. quadriaurita and our common English
Bracken ; it has strong erect stipes, two feet or more
long, and broad fronds, somewhat coriaceous in
texture, from two to four feet long. This, when

199

planted out in the warm fernery, makes a fine object
where sufficient space can be allowed it. P. hetexo-
phylla, a native of the West Indian Islands and
Brazil, was introduced to Kew many years ago from
Jamaica ; it has small, dark green fronds, feathery
in cutting, &c., reminding one of our native Parsley
Fern (Cryptogramma crispa), or the common Wall-
Rue (Asplenium Ruta-muraria), mach enlarged. It
is a compact-growing plant from six inches to a
foot in height, and is one of the best for a small or
moderate-sized fern-case. P. incisa is a very variable
species, widely distributed throughout tropical and
temperate regions of both hemispheres; it exhibits
a considerable range of differences in size, cutting,

‘texture, and venation, and is often scandent with

long, spreading, rigid branches—in a wild state it is
said to now and then attain a length of ten yards.
P. laciniata has a distinct and somewhat striking
aspect; the large tripinnatifid fronds, herbacéous
in texture, are of a beautiful light green colour, and
are borne on stout, erect, very hairy stipes, a foot or
more in length. P. leptophylia is a vigorous-growing
Brazilian species with firm, erect, straw-coloured
stipes from six inches to about a foot in length, and
deltoid, herbaceous fronds nine to twelve inches
long, by as much in width at the base. P. longi-
pinnula is a near ally of FP. guadriaurita, with which,
from a purely botanical standpoint, it might be
united. From a garden point of view, however, it
is distinct enough; it has erect, naked, yellowish-
green stipes from two to three feet long in fully-
developed plants, and sub-coriaceous fronds one
to three feet long by twelve to eighteen inches
broad. It is a native of Hindostan (ascending in the
Himalayas from 2,000 to 4,000 feet), Malayan Penin-
sula, Borneo, and Japan.

P. ludens, from the Malayan Peninsula and Philip-
pine Islands, has polished, nearly black stipes, those
of the barren fronds three or four inches in length,
and those of the fertile frond about three times as
long. The barren frond varies in shape from
triangular with two slightly deflexed basal lobes, to
spear-shaped with two basal and two large spreading
lateral lobes with entire margins; the fertile fronds
measure from four to six inches each way, and are
cut down into five linear-lanceolate, or lanceolate
lobes (one erect, two spreading, and two deflexed), all
of which, except the last, are sometimes again forked.

P. quadriaurita is a beautiful evergreen fern, a
thoroughly useful and easily-managed species, which
should find a place in every collection. It is found
all round the world within the tropics, and a little
beyond them. What we may here regard as the
type (for the species is a widely variable one) hag
fronds from one to three feet in length, the end of
each pinna being lengthened out into a long tail,

200

which imparts a distinct and striking aspect to the
plant. The very finest of the variegated ferns (even
in the genus Pteris, which has produced nearly all
the variegated forms at present known in cultiva-
tion) are varieties of P. guadriaurita.

P. argyrea and P. tricolor, when well grown, can-
not fail to win the admiration of every one who has
any love for plants. The first-named is much the
easier of the two to manage, no particular difficulty
being experienced in growing it thoroughly well.
The greater part of the area of each pinna is
occupied by a broad band of white, and as young
plants are readily raised from spores, and soon
become very ornamental objects, it is not likely
to lose its hold on popular estimation. PP. tricolor
is a still more handsome plant, though unfortunately
one which is not nearly so easy to grow; the centre
of each pinna, in characteristically coloured plants,
is a bright rosy-red with a margin of white on each
side, which contrasts strongly with the deep glossy
green of the other portion of the fronds. P. sagitti-
folia, a native of the New World (from Venezuela
southward to Brazil), is an excellent subject for the
Wardian case, and thrives well in the green-house.
It has erect, polished, blackish stipes four to six
inches long, and dark green sub-triangular fronds
four to six inches long from the top of the stipes to
the apex.

GREEN-HOUSE SPECIES.

None of the species mentioned under this head
refuse to grow under stove treatment, and some
develop much more rapidly in the warmer atmo-
sphere of the stove; some are very nearly hardy,
and are invaluable for conservatory decoration and
for the indoor unheated fernery. P. arguta is a
handsome evergreen kind from Portugal, the Azores,
Madeira, and the Canary Islands; it succeeds ad-
mirably when planted out in the cool conservatory,
and allowed plenty of space; under these conditions
it not unfrequently attains a height of five feet, the
strong, erect, glossy, straw-coloured or reddish-
brown stipes measuring about half the entire length
of the fronds. P. Creticy is far from being peculiar to
Crete, as its name would seem to imply. In fact few
ferns have a more extensive geographical distribu-
tion. It ranges from Turcomania in Uralian Siberia,
through Southern Europe, the Mediterranean and its
islands, Arabia and Abyssinia, most parts of India,
from the hot plains to the Himalayas at elevations
of 6,000 feet above sea-level—Mauritius, Penang,
Java, Luzon, Ceylon; and from the United States,
south through Mexico to Guatemala and Brazil.
The pinnate fronds are upwards of a foot in length,
and are very bright green in colour. Enormous
numbers of this species are annually sent to Covent

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Garden Market by some growers, and the species is
one of the ferns most largely used in general
decorative work during the London season. Large
showy plants are readily grown, even with con.-
paratively limited pot-room, and if simply attended
to in respect to watering, the fronds retain their
bright green hue for a long time even in the gas-
laden atmosphere of London drawing-rooms. A
variegated form of this P. Cretica, var. albo-lineata,
though hardly so useful as the green-leaved type, is
a handsome evergreen kind, with « broad band of
white running up the centre of each pinna; this
was introduced to Kew many years ago from Java,
and was figured in the Botanical Magazine —5,194.
It has, however, been collected in several other
widely-separated countries. P. flabellata is a near
ally of the species first named under the heading of
green-house ferns, viz., P. arguta, perhaps the best
character by which to distinguish it from that being
the longer and narrower sori of Z. flabellata. It is
found in Cape Colony, and northward to Mauritius,
Abyssinia, and Fernando Po. P. longifolia, an in-
habitant of tropical and warm temperate regions all
over the world, is the representative of a very small
section in which the lower pinne are linear and
undivided. It is a well-known evergreen species, of
the easiest cultivation, reproducing itself freely by
spores either in the stove or green-house, wherever
it can find a surface more or less constantly moist
enough. In the rockery, under glass, or upon
moist stonework, &c., it makes a very pretty object
with its dark green fronds one to two feet in length;
these remain fresh for a long time in water when
cut. Although somewhat common, the species
altogether is a very useful one, and ought not to be
omitted from any fern collection. P. scaberula was
accidentally introduced into this country many
years ago, « number of young plants appearing
amongst the soil in which a case of plants from New
Zealand (of which country the species is a native)
had been packed. As stated at the commencement
of these notes, P. scaberula is a near ally of our
common Bracken. Like that plant, it produces its
elegantly-cut fronds from creeping rhizomes. It is
one of the most distinct and handsome of cool-house
ferns, and should find a place even in the most select
collection of green-house plants. Few ferns make
more elegant objects for baskets than this, and the
fronds last a long time in water after being cut.
One of the commonest of cultivated ferns, P. ser-
rulata, a native of China and Japan, is so well
known that a description is unnecessary. None of
its allies have been more profoundly modified by
cultivation than this deservedly popular species. It
has been raised in such quantities from slightly
varying forms, that now any number of varieties can

FERNS.

often be selected from a single crop of spores.
Some of the more remarkable of these have received
distinctive names, and are in many respects prefer-
able for general decorative effect to the ordinary and
widely-grown type. Amongst these may be espe-
cially mentioned mazima, angustata, cristata, Leyi,

PTERIS SERRULATA CRISTATA.

and polydactyla. P. straminea, a comparatively
recent introduction of Chilian origin, is a very
beautiful species, with moderately firm naked fronds
of an intense bright green colour. Perhaps it is
better known under its garden name of P. crispa,
a descriptive title which alludes to the wavy or
crisped margins of the pinnatifid pinne. P. tremula,
a native of Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand,
has bright green fronds, sometimes as much as five
feet long, the bright, chestnut-brown, polished
stipes being a foot or more in length. Grown in
pots, however, it rarely attains the dimensions just
given.

P. umbrosa somewhat resembles P. Cretica in

201

general aspect; it is, however, a much larger plant,
with a conspicuously-winged rachis, and several
compound pinne. When planted out in the open
border of the cool conservatory, it makes a fine
specimen, and requires no attention beyond a good
supply of moisture to the roots during the growing

season. Ina wild state, it is found in tropical and
temperate Australia.

HARDY KINDS.

Perhaps the only Pteris which can fairly claim to
be considered absolutely hardy in this country is our
native P. aguilina, which is found all round the
world, both within the Tropics and in the North
and South Temperate Zones. In Lapland it just
passes within the Arctic Circle, ascending in the
Highlands of Scotland to 2,000 feet, in the Cameroon
Mountains to 7,000 feet, in Abyssinia to 8,000 or
9,000 feet, and in the Himalayas to about 8,000 feet
above sea-level. In the Andes, Dr. Spruce has seen

202

it about fourteen feet high, and even amongst thick
underwood in copses in this country we have seen it
attain dimensions not much less. Undoubtedly this
species—probably because it is so common—is some-
what neglected by gardeners. Under suitable con-
ditions, and with proper restrictions, it makes a very
handsome garden plant. Asa pot plant in a small
state—and no fern is more readily raised from
spores—we have seen it used with great success for
“ furnishing.”

The New Zealand P. scaberula is also hardy in
many places in this country, the only attention it
requires in the out-door fernery being a layer of
dry leaves over its slender rhizomes during the
winter months. For several years, too, in anything
but a very favoured locality, we knew of a fine
plant of P. wmbrosa, which flourished in an open
fernery with no care whatever. The two suc-
cessive severe winters which caused such widespread
loss amongst half-hardy and even hardy trees and
plants generally some few years ago, proved, how-
ever, too mnch for this stranger from the Southern
Hemisphere,

Cultivation. — Most of the species of Pteris
mentioned in the foregoing pages require no great
skill in order to manage them successfully. The
stronger-growing kinds thrive in a mixture of loam,
leaf-mould, and sand; the more delicate ones do
better in peat and sand. All require a goodly supply
of water to the roots during the growing season,
and although not very averse to overhead wetting, it
_is perhaps better to abstain from syringing except on
the afternoons of bright hot summer days. A good
many are by no means particular as to shading, and
will succeed with no more attention in this respect
than is found necessary for ordinary stove or green-
house plants grown under glass. Periodical water-
ings with weak liquid manure (that obtained from
cow-dung being perhaps the safest and best) are
highly beneficial, particularly to the stronger-
growing kinds. The method recommended for
raising spores of Adiantum does admirably for all
the species of Pteris, and scarcely more than six or
eight months are needed to obtain a good stock of
thoroughly serviceable plants of such as P. Cretica,
P. serrulata, &c, P. tricolor dislikes water on its
beautifully-coloured fronds, and this should properly
—in order to develop the brilliant hues ‘of the
fronds to their fullest extent—be grown under a
bell-glass in a light open position. Not a few
ferns suffer from the prevalent idea that light
is to be guarded against; during the dull winter
months, particularly in sunless weather, most
ferns can scarcely have too much light, and these
remarks fully apply to the genus now under con-
sideration.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

THE FLOWER GARDEN;

By WILLI4sM WILDSMITH.

KEEPING AND GENERAL CULTURE.

O some—perhaps to most people—perfection of
keeping in a garden may appear to be simply
a matter of pounds, shillings, and pence. But it is
not so. Ample labour or assistance certainly goesa
long way-in the direction of the attainment, but this
must be supplemented by a determination that every
job shall be done at the right time, and in such an
effective manner as to last for the longest periods.
The pulling out-of seeding weeds only, sweeping up
the thickest rubbish, clearing out the worst corners,
and such-like slipshod ways of working, however
ample the labour, will never result in neatness or
good keeping. Personal appreciativeness of all that
is orderly and neat, as well as thoroughness in the
practical performance of the work, alone can insure
that high degree of keep that makes “a thing of
beauty (the garden) a joy for ever.”

Neatness.—Lest it may be thought that undue
prominence is being given to this subject of neat-
ness, let us regard the keep of an ordinary flower-
bed planted after the simplest bedding-out pattern.
If the bad flowers be kept constantly picked off, de-
caying leaves the same, and a peg inserted here and
there to fill up gaps, and the edging of grass round
it be regularly trimmed, it may always be viewed
with satisfaction; and, into the bargain, a constant
succession of flower is a greater certainty, simply
because there is no waste of energy by the plants
on seed-production. Apply these remarks to the
flower-beds as a whole, and it will be seen what real
neatness is, and what it means or conduces to in
plants, viz., to greater floriferousness, robustness,
and lasting properties.

Then as to neatness in other departments of the
garden—walks, for instance. Nothing so readily
tells tales of general slovenliness as weedy, neg-
lected walks; and the opposite we have invariably
found to hold good, viz., that clean, well-kept
walks are, as a rule, a true index to the general
good management of all other departments of a
garden. Here it may be remarked that thoughtless-
ness, rather than intended negligence, must have at
least part of the credit for much lack of neatness.
The edgings of grass verges are left too long uncut,
consequently the Grasses, Clovers, Plantains, and
other weeds seed, and asa matter of course spring
up in the walks; all of which trouble is preventible
by timely attention to trimming of edgings. One
hour of such work would in many instances save
days of labour in walk-weeding.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

Lawn and Shrubberies.—As to neatness in
respect of lawn and shrubberies, the latter are too
frequently left to take care of themselves ;’ but it is
a mistaken policy, not only on the ground of appear-
ance, but on that of the well-doing of the shrubs.
Thistles, Nettles, Couch, and other rampant-growing
weeds, are not the best associates for shrubs that are
required to do their duty towards beautifying a
garden, and ought not to be neglected, when a few
hours’ work with the hoe, in dry weather, at once
insures neatness and the more kindly growth of
shrubs. The keeping of a lawn in good order has,
by the introduction of such excellent mowers, been
reduced to such a minimum of trouble that there
can be no valid reason for neglect of this branch of
garden work. Perhaps the operation of mowing is,
in a few cases, carried to an extreme, both as to
extent of plot that is kept mown and the frequency
with which it is done: but these are solely matters
of taste, that may safely be left in the hands of those
most nearly concerned. But at ary rate there
should always be a determination to mow with suffi-
cient frequency as to at one and the same time
insure neatness and prevent seeding of the grasses.

Keep of Flower-beds.—Incidentally we have
alluded to the keep of flower-beds, but it may be
well to enter into details of requirements to obtain
the best effects. The various kinds of soil that suit
certain plants were mentioned in former chapters, so
that it is not necessary to again refer to that; but
planting out, being an operation to be done not only
well but neatly, may claim a place in the category of
keep. Plants cannot thrive as they ought unless
they are transferred to the beds carefully, that is, in
a proper state as to moisture—rather wet than dry—
and are well pressed, not pounded, and surrounded
with soil by using. one’s hand instead of trowel or

- dibber—of course, for filling in oniy. This done,
the next important operation is

Mulching—that is, covering the surface of the
beds with some kind of material which reduces the
necessity of watering to the minimum point, and
prevents the soil cracking or baking on the surface,
thus checking the growth of the plants. The
neatest material for mulching flower-beds is cocoa-
fibre refuse, and being procurable at a very cheap
rate, those who can spare the time to mulch should
procure this material. | Horse-droppings, spent
Mushroom-beds, and other manures are all very well
to use as mulchings to shrubs and trees, but for
flower-beds the manure has such an appearance of
untidiness, and the birds frequently play such havoc
with it, that it ought never to be used. Of course,
many kinds of plants do well without mulching, but

203

they always do better with it; and what is more,
considering our short summer season, they fill up
their allotted space in a shorter time.

Watering.—As before observed, this is not so
frequently required when the beds are surfaced with
cocoa-fibre as soon as planted; but, when it is done,
it ought to be effectively so; a real soaking once a
week is of far greater service to the plants than daily
sprinklings, which unfortunately is the prevalent
plan. A syringing over in the evening after hot sun-
shine of such tender bedding plants as Alternantheras
and Coleus, and such hardier kinds as Fuchsias and
Calceolarias, is certainly beneficial, particularly in
keeping down thrips and spiders, but such syringings.
should never be allowed to interfere with heavy
waterings to the same kind of plant, otherwise the
syringings will prove of little account.

There is another phase of watering that should be
mentioned, and it is this: during long spells of
drought, supplies sometimes fail, or at any rate run
very short. Now, when an occurrence of this nature
seems imminent, watering should be wholly dis-
continued rather than the beds should have a
meagre supply, which has the undesirable effect of
drawing the roots to the surface; which roots, the
first scorching day, meet with dire destruction, and
the plants are checked in growth. On the other
hand, had the plants been left to take care of them-
selves, they would naturally have gone deeper in
search of moisture, and have been out of harm’s way
as regards scorching by sunshine; and though,
under these circumstances, the growth of the plants
would not be so rapid as if abundant supplies of
water could be given, it would at any rate be of the-
best description—that is, hard and floriferousand
they would do as well as the case admits of.

Pegging, Tying, and Pinching.—These three
items of keep may be classed under the, same head,
seeing that virtually they each have the same object,
namely, that of insuring the plants presenting the
best possible appearance. Pegging is essentially
necessary in the earlier stages of growth for nearly
all descriptions of plants used in carpet beds; and if
this is not needed pinching or stopping is. The
great charm of such beds is keeping them true to-
design by pegging or pinching. Without that
labour, they are far more objectionable than are
the masses of Pelargoniums so common in some
gardens; but this labour given, no other description
of bedding-out excels it for effectiveness in all
weathers. Tying is imperatively needed not only
in bedding-out for standard or dot plants, and for
sub-tropicals, but for most of the hardy flowers in
the mixed borders. For the former no word as to

204

the manner of tying up is requisite, except it be to
say that the stakes should not be visible, or if they
pre, not conspicuously so, and in tying sufficient
3pace should be left for the swelling of the stems—a
remark that is very necessary in regard to Ricinus,
Castor Oils, Tobacco, Wigandias, and other rapid
growers. The tying up of herbaceous plants is
usually of the worst possible description; some one
has well described it as “ Birch-broom-like.” One
stick, and one tie, to a large mass of Delphiniums,
growing some six feet high, is not a likely object to
win over an opponent of mixed flower gardening;
but happily there is a better way of supplying
supports. Asa rule, one stake is ample for a large
plant, however spreading it may be; for if the stake
be put in the centre of the plant, and the string
or matting be secured to the stake, and instead of
one tie round the entire plant, the tying is divided
into three or more equal parts of the plant, all stiff-
ness will be avoided, and the plants will present
a natural appearance. The stakes in all cases when
possible should be quite hidden from view.

The constant removal of seeding and decayed
flowers, weeding when needed, the trimming up of
Box and other edgings at the right time, complete
the round of operations that is demanded of all who
aim at the highest keeping of the flower garden.

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

By James Hupson.

DINNER AND OTHER TABLE DECORATION.

ees decoration of the dinner-table, or of the
dining-room, for breakfasts, dinners, and suppers,
has of late years made most rapid and progressive
steps, both in the quantity of material utilised and
in the systems of arrangement.

The “Marsh” Stand.—It requires no great
stretch of memory to look back some twenty years or
more, when what for many years since have gone
under the name of the “‘ Marsh” stands were first in-
troduced to public notice. These were a new depar-
ture from the massive and cumbrous epergnes of that
day, without which hardly any large dinner party
was considered complete. The “‘ Marsh” stands, or
lass vases, had this term applied to them from an
exhibit of decorations by a family of that name, and
were much sought after for a considerable period
afterwards, They have a beautiful effect when ar-
ranged in a light manner with suitable subjects,
and since their introduction to public notice, great
additions have been made to the glass department
of flower-vases. There is now no lack either in size

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

or quality, and a handsome glass vase may be pur-
chased for a few shillings, wherewith many, in ever
so humble a way, may beautify and render more
cheerful their dinner-tables and living-rooms. The
“Marsh” stands consist of a glass dish as a base,
with a slender glass stem, from a foot to fifteen
inches in length, on the top of which rests a smaller
glass dish, and from the centre of this a cornucopia,
or trumpet-shaped vase. The advantage of a pro-
perly-made stand of this kind is the facility with
which it can be taken to pieces when not required
for use, and then be stowed away in safety.

The bases of these stands are easily arranged, and
readily adapted to almost any kind of flowers. The
stems look well with a climber entwined around
them, when using all but Lilies and kindred subjects ;
but with these latter we decidedly prefer the Orna-
mental Grasses and Sedges, as being more appro-
priate. The upper dish of the two is the one in
which mistakes are most often made in arrangement.
The flowers in this dish should be kept as low as pos-
sible, for them to be seen by the guests surrounding
the table, not mounded up around the stem of the
cornucopia, as is frequently done. In this latter
manner an obstruction is caused in the line of sight,
which, by using flowers with short stems, is avoided in
a great measure. A few pendent flowers look exceed-
ingly pretty suspended around the edges of this dish.

The cornucopia should be filled with light flowers,
on slender stems, Those with spike-like form, as
in the well-known Astilbe japonica (generally grown
under the name of Spirea japonica), are the best.
Ornamental Grasses are very light and pretty for
the same purpose. When these are used, we gener-
ally prefer to arrange a sufficient quantity in the
first instance, when a few flowers can be dotted
among them, such as the Rhodanthes (pink and
white). A few fronds of Maiden-hair Fern, small
and light, should fringe the edge of this top glass, as
also the central one, only with rather larger examples.
Of the less-known Adiantums, 4. amabile is very
pretty for |the top glass, and .4. coneinnum for the
central dish. Both flowers and foliage should gra-
duate from the base to the top, i.c., the largest and
boldest of each should be used at the bottom, and
smaller forms upwards. In colours also it is well to
shade off from the bottom to the top. Take any
blue flowers, for instance; the darker shades should
be placed at the base, and lighter ones upwards to
the top.

Many of the smaller forms of Orchids, such as the
Oncidiums of the lesser section, and the Odonto-
glossums with small spikes, are very well displayed
in these vases. Individual flowers of the Moth
Orchid (Phalenopsis) look beautiful when suspended
from the central dish. The slender and delicate

206

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS,

CoRNUCOPIA.

TH SINGLE

Stanp oR VaSE WI

Fig. 3.—A Grass

catkin-like spikes of Platyclinis filiformis are most being bolder, can be better displayed at the base,

pleasing in union with these, or interspersed with the

where the blossoms of the handsome larger types of

Spikes of the Calanthes, Cattleya are best placed. The Odontoglossums also,

Lapagerias (rosea and alba).

206

which develop a somewhat large spike, are best seen
in the same position.

Other Glass Vases.—Another form of vase, a
modification of the “Marsh” type, and which we
think is preferable to that for several reasons, is one
with a base similar to the “Marsh,” but a trifle
smaller. From the centre of this rises a,slender
stem, expanding into a larger-sized cornucopia than
in the case of the “Marsh.” This is, we think,
one of the best forms of glass vases for the dinner-
table that have yet been brought out. The long
slender stem of the cornucopia is no obstruction to
the line of sight, and the arrangement of the base is
all the better displayed by the omission of the upper
dish. Flowers of larger forms can be more advanta-
geously arranged in such as this, whilst spikes of
small size from the Gladiolus and the Iridzceous
plants are just adapted for such a form of vase. The
large handsome blossoms of the Cactus (Cereus specio-
sissimus) and the White Water Lily, with hosts of
other flowers of bold outline, are effectively ar-
ranged in the base, whilst there is room for a display
of appropriate foliage interspersed amongst them.
‘When climbers are used for the stems, they also will
be seen to better advantage -with the greater length
of glass to be clothed.

Long drooping spikes of slender oufline will look
well around the edge of the trumpet—such, for in-
stance, as Thyrsacanthus rutilans, Plunbago rosea,
Chorozema Chandleri, and the pendulous forms of the
tuberous-rooted Begonias. The individual blossoms
of the smaller kinds of Passion-flowers (Passiflora)
are extremely pretty. P. kermesina of the stove
species, and P. cerulea among the hardier kinds, are
two of the best, and will both have good effect when
used in w similar manner to the other flowers just
mentioned. A small spike of Hwmea elegans or
Spirea Aruncus will look well in the trumpet, with
a few colours to contrast. The top arrangement can
well afford to be carried to a fairly good height,
to prevent any dumpy appearance when finished.

Fig. 3 is drawn from such a vase of flowers
specially arranged to illustrate this article. The
base thereof is arranged with a mixed assortment

of flowers, most of which are readily discernible .

in the engraving. Of exotic flowers there are
Eucharis amazonica, Anthurium Scherzerianum, and
Dendrobium nobile; of bulbous plants, the Poet’s
Narcissus, Red Tulips (Vermilion Brilliant), Cam-
panelle Jonquils, Lilies of the Valley, and Anemone
fuigens. The foliage used in conjunction with the
flowers is, of Ferns, Adiantum cardiochlena, A.
macrophyllum, and A. cuneatum; the carpeting or
undergrowth consisting of Panicum variegation,
The cornucopia is filled with flowers of Begonia

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

manicata and B. nitida odorata, with Thyrsacanthus
rutilans and Deutzia gracilis as pendants; and, of
foliage, a long trailing growth of Paullinia thalic.'
trifolia, with fronds of Adiantum euneatum, and one
or two medium-sized Begonia-leaves.

There are also trumpet-shaped glass vases without
any means of arranging flowers at the base. With
such it is easy to contrive a temporary receptacce for
these ends by placing the vase in an ordinary dinner-
plate, and firmly fixing it there with some string.
We have often done this, and it answers the purpose
as well as a properly constructed vase. When used
without the bottom arrangement, these trumpet vases
form an excellent medium whereon to arrange extra
long shoots of climbing plants—such, for instance,
as Cissus discolor—allowing the shoots to trail on the
cloth. Asparagus plumosus nanus, again, would be
extremely pretty in the same position, whilst in the
trumpet itself a shoot or two of the narrow-leaved
Crotons of pendulous growth would be well placed.’
The tufts of the Cyperus alternifolius, with a good
length of stem, could also be used in unison with a
few flowers of spike-like formation or of drooping
habit, such as the slender spikes of Chelone barbata,
and the Pentstemons, or a small panicle of one of the
smaller forms of Lilium during the summer months.
In the early spring the slender spikes of the Roman
Hyacinth, with the many and varied forms of Nar-
cissus, to be followed by Solomon’s Seal, of which
the smallest growths are preferable, will each and
all be found adapted for such an arrangement.

The essential point in all dinner-table decorations
of this description is to secure for the trumpet
arrangement as light an appearance as possible.
This is very frequently overlooked by decorators
in filling their vases. These would have a far
prettier effect in many cases if about two-thirds
of the flowers were never used at all. We have
often seen the trumpets of such designs out of all
proportion to the rest of the stand, looking some-
what like a huge bouquet placed on the top. The
great secret with these and all other decorations is,
to know when to leave off, and without this gift the
utmost effect cannot be extracted from any given
amount of material.

Of glass vases that ought to be avoided in dinner-
table decorations, it is necessary to say at least a
few words. It is a mistaken idea to think that, be-
cause a flower-vase is a flower-vase, it is therefore
adapted for the dinner-table. Such is by no means
the case. Many designs are met with which are
very pretty of themselves, and when filled with
flowers also look well, but are not suitable for table
decorations by reason of the density of appearance
they present, thereby causing an obstruction of view
across the table to a most considerable extent. Such

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

a design, if ever used, should only be placed as a
single arrangement on the centre of the table, but is
far more appropriate in the drawing-room. All ob-
struction in the line of sight when seated at the
table should be reduced to a minimum; such designs,
therefore, as require filling at the height of the eye
are not well suited for the purpose. Not unfre-
quently glass vases are to be seen with three and even
six cornucopias branching from the base of the stem.
These are certainly not suited for a dinner-table,
for the reasons just given. Having once two such
vases to fill, we removed the six cornucopias which
clustered around the central one. This left us with
the exact design we have just recommended, viz., a
base, with one tall central trumpet arising out of the
same. It was, in fact, this occurrence that first led
us into this design, which we were one of the first to
adopt; since, then, however, it has come into more
prominent notice.

Another pattern of glass stand not suited for
the dinner-table is that which has little orna-
mental glass baskets suspended in lieu of the side
cornncopias just mentioned; neither is any pattern
advisable that stands on a foot, and thus elevates the
vase to any considerable extent from off the cloth.

It is well also to observe that glass vases are at
least as well suited for any kind of decoration when
of plain workmanship. Highly-finished vases, with
beautifully-figured designs thereon, are not in any
sense preferable to their more modest and less pre-
tentious rivals ; in fact, we prefer a plain pattern at
all times, bearing in mind that the flowers are the
ornaments to the vases, not the vases to the flowers.
Coloured glass is now much in use, in various shades
and tints; but we fail to see any real advantage in
these new departures; either the foliage or the
flowers will often clash with the colour of the glass,
causing unnecessary restriction in the selection of
material, Plain clear glass, or that of a smoky or
milky-white tint, is, in our opinion, the best in all
cases.

Glass troughs of varied patterns are likewise to be
met with, but they afford very little scope for artistic
arrangement, or diversity in the method of filling
the same. In such the flowers have to be used with
needlessly short stems, which often destroys their
natural beauty to a certain extent. Plateaux of
looking-glass are employed as a representation of
water surface; but who ever saw a lake or pond
standing on legs? The place for such designs is cer-
tainly on the ground, and nowhere else.

Specimen Glasses.—Great improvements have
been made of late years in the patterns of specimen
glasses, and these are now to be seen in numerous
pretty shapes and sizes. We would prefer those with

207

a solid glass base, as affording greater security
against being toppled over, and likewise of a medium
height, so that the flowers placed in them are fairly
elevated from the table for them to be seen to the
best advantage. The small globe-like glasses which
are now in frequent use on dinner-tables, are only
adapted for flowers with short footstalks. The
blossoms of the Camellia are very well suited to this
pattern, and small sprays of the Indian Azalea will
also look well in them. This shape of glass, we
find, is rather difficult to handle when the necessary
amount of foliage is used to display the flowers;
they have one merit, however, in not being easily
upset. A good selection of specimen glasses affords
the decorator « means of utilising the flowers at
command in times of scarcity with the utmost possi-
ble effect ; they also help to fill up what might pose
sibly be blank spaces were it not for their presence.
Good examples only of flowers should be used to fill
them when there is sufficient choice, and the least
semblance of overcrowding should never be allowed.
Single individual flowers of good size are ample;
thus of the Roses one blossom is sufficient, with its
own foliage and buds attached. One blossom of
Eucharis amazonica, with a small spray of Scarlet
Bouvardia as a contrast, is quite enough. Three
flowers of the Gloxinias make a pretty filling for a
specimen glass of fair size, and are among the best-
suited flowers that can be had for such purposes.
With a frond or two of Davallia bullata, again, take
one bloom of the Dipladenias or of the Allamandas,
and you have quite sufficient. These handsome
flowers need no other accompaniment than the Fern.
The spikes of Astilbe japonica are very useful also
in these glasses, with one flower of.another shade;
such, for instance, as one spathe of the Flamingo
Plant (Anthurium Scherzerianum). Many of the
Orchids are just adapted for such glasses; as, for
example, the handsome blossoms of the Cattleyas
and Leelias.

When a few finger-glasses can be spared, they
can be turned to good account for Water Lilies; and
the glorious blossoms of the Granadilla (Passiflora
quadrangularis) also look well placed in the same,
though they must of necessity be inverted from their
natural hanging position to do this.

Baskets. — Very beautiful arrangements of
flowers can be displayed in rustic baskets, and are
very well suited for tables of but moderate size.
The baskets should not be of more than average
dimensions when required for the dinner-table.
Suitable sizes, of oblong shape, with a slender
handle, are about the best. We prefer those with
the handle, as it affords a medium for entwining
a climber around the same. These baskets are well

208

adapted for groups of Rose-blooms, with a climbing
Rose around the handle, or a few sprays of the
variegated Honeysuckle. The Chrysanthemums,
too, will be easily adapted to these baskets, taking a
small form of Ivy, with bronzy-tinted foliage, in this
case, for the handle. During the spring-time the
Tulips will give another change, working into use for
the handle in this case a small spike or two of Solo-
mon’s Seal, or the Daffodils with their own foliage.
Of baskets without handles attached to them, the
round form will be as good as any; these afford us
the means of keeping the arrangements as low as
possible. By the use of Ornamental Grasses or
Fern-fronds in a free manner, the otherwise flat ap-
pearance will be in a measure reduced. This kind
of basket would be very pretty if filled with Snow-
drops and Crocuses in the early spring, or with
Primroses and Polyanthus a little later on. Those
lovers of floral decorations who reside in the pure air
of the country have a great advantage over such as
dwell in the vicinity of large towns and cities, in the
far greater choice of material at their command from
amongst our British Wild Flowers and Mosses. Such
as these will be found to be appropriate subjects for
rustic baskets, as a change from the well-known plants
of our gardens and hot-houses. For all baskets we
would advise a tin receptacle to be fitted to them, for
the better preservation of the flowers placed therein,
and to avoid all needless risk of injury to the cloth.

Epergnes.—In the arrangement of flowers in
epergnes of silver or other metal, there is a wide field
for improvement. Many epergnes are unnecessarily
heavy and cumbrous in make and outline ; with such
it requires an exercise of judgment in the selection of
material wherewith to fill them. With such as are
of good height, an excellent opportunity is afforded
to make good use of fronds of Polypodiwm subau-
riculatum, sprays of Asparagus plumosus, and long
trailing shoots of Ficus repens, each of which may be
allowed to droop down, nearly or quite touching the
table-cloth. Moderate use only should be made of
these subjects, so that each individual frond or shoot
is seen to advantage; they should not be allowed to
spread out too far and interfere with other sur-
roundings. Resting on this foliage some sprays of
flowers of pendulous habit could be well displayed.
Several Orchids that yield long drooping racemes of
their choice flowers are well adapted for this kind
of decoration. Some of the best are Dendrobiwn
thyrsiflorum, D. densiflorum, D. Wardianum, and D.
chrysanthum. Odontoglossum Alexandre and the Onci-
diums, with long arching spikes, are also extremely
pretty for the same use. Phalenopsis Schilleriana
could not well be surpassed, whilst many of the
Asrides would be most fit subjects.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Of the stove plants when in season the following
could be used with good effect :—Thyrsacanthus
rutilans, with its slender pendants; Euphorbia jac-
quineflora, with its showy sprays; and Hexacentris
lutea, with its distinct panicles, and many other
things of similar habit. The long shoots of Deutzia
gracilis, when forced and expanding their flowers,
can be worked in with good effect, Dielytra spectabilis
being an excellent contrast thereto. Of plants from
the open border there are Spirea Lindleyana, and
S. ariefolia ; the feathery sprays of these two shrubby
species are very pretty for the purpose. In a some-
what large epergne the Clematis would afford us
shoots and flowers that could be effectively used.
Other examples from many genera could be named,
but these are sufficient to illustrate our method.

When flowers are used in this drooping manner
around the glass dish or dishes of the epergne, it is
not necessary to arrange nearly so many in the dish
itself, and what are placed therein should be arranged
in a light and easy style. Allsymptoms of formality
of outline should be carefully avoided, and the flowers
in the top of the dish should in a measure agree with
those that are suspended therefrom, as Orchids with
Orchids, stove and green-house flowers with stove
and green-house flowers, and so on. It does not
follow that this line need be strictly adhered to, but
it will be a safe guide to follow out in a measure.
Certain flowers are always a help in their season in
almost any design; such, for instance, as the well-
known Astilbe japonica and Lilies of the Valley.
This style of filling epergnes will be found far more
effective than the plan frequently adopted of con-
centrating the majority of the flowers in a compact
mass on the dish itself, in which manner many of
them cannot possibly be viewed to advantage. We
have seen many epergnes which, when completed,
have had twice as many flowers used over them as
were really needed to produce a good display, the
object apparently having been to obtain effect by
quantity alone.

Use of Plants Alone.—In lieu of using either
glass stands, baskets, or epergnes, we would some-
times advise the adoption of a distinct kind of
decoration without any exterior aid, other than a
few dinner-plates and saucers, in which all the
arrangements can be easily made. ‘This system
might fairly be called au naturel, nothing but plants,
flowers, and foliage being observable in a decoration
carried out entirely in this way. A selection of the
most graceful palms is necessary; the well-known
Cocos Weddelliana, Euterpe edulis, Areca lutescens (more
correctly Chrysalidocarpus lutescens), and Chamedorea
graminifolia are all very suitable for the purpose.
When grown for this special use it is necessary to

209

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

hohe crt haa lee

Fig. 4.—Cocos WEDDELLIANA, WITH FLOWERS AND FOLiaGE aT Base.

object either of these Palms (and others too) will
make, even when in a three-inch pot, under good

obtain a well-developed plant in as small a pot as is

possible, this being more easily accomplished than

It is surprising what a beautiful

Many imagine.

cultivation. The Cocos named is, perhaps, the most _

38

210

popular of any; certainly it is one of the lightest
and most elegant of all Palms when in a small
state.

As an example, suppose we take a well-balanced
plant of this Cocos in a threo or four-inch pot,
which will be large enough, unless required as a
centre-piece to avery large table; place this plant,

_ pot and all, on a dinner or soup plate, and mound up
around the pot with wet sand nearly to the rim;
then cover this surface with either green Moss or
Selaginella denticulata, otherwise called S. Kraussiana.
The variegated form of this Selaginella (S. K. aurea)
is most pleasing during the spring-time ; later on its
tips lose in a measure their colour. On this carpet-
ing we may proceed to arrange a few Fern-fronds
around the base as a fringe to rest on the cloth; or
as a variety, instead of Fern, the foliage of Begonia
metallica and a silvery form with it may be used.
With the addition of a few Maiden-hair fronds
we may then dot in a moderate quantity of flowers
as a finish, and to impart colour. For this purpose
a few blooms of Eucharis are useful; the Indian
_Azaleas, as well as the ‘‘ Ghent” and “ mollis” types,
too, are very pretty when in season. Some Gloxinia
blooms, or Vallota purpurea, each in their season,
have a good effect with the Eucharis. Roses also
will look exceedingly well in such a decoration as
this, allowing the groundwork of Selaginella to be
seen between each blossom. Single flowers of the
many hardy Lilies and their allies are also effective ;
the single forms of Dahlias likewise are suitable,
having the advantage of w fairly long stem, which
enables the flower to be kept well above the Moss.
Small flowers, such as the Rhodanthes, the Blue
Corn Flower, and others, are not striking enough in
themselves without the aid of bolder kinds, but as an
intermixture they are of good service; so also arc the
Forget-me-nots and Gypsophila elegans when they
are to be had. Camellias are also excellent for this
kind of design, not omitting their own handsome
foliage. If flowers are scarce, berries could be
chosen in lieu thereof, or if the Selaginella be of the
best, both may be dispensed with as a change. For
this method the golden-tipped variety would make
an excellent covering, with a few leaves of Begonia
metallica as a fringing to the same, the contrast
between these two subjects being most effective.

Fig. 4 is drawn from such a design put together
to illustrate this article. In this arrangement the
flowers are selected from bulbous and tuberous-
rooted plants entirely, all of them having there-
fore a certain amount of affinity. They consist
of the Poet’s Narcissus, Campanelle Jonquils,
red and yellow Tulips, Lilies of the Valley,
Lachenalia tricolor, and Anemone fulgens. Besides
making use of the foliage of the foregoing flowers,

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

some tufts of Cyperus alternifolius (the exotic Sedge.
grass) and Adiantum Capillus-veneris (the British
Maiden-hair Fern), with a few Begonia-leaves
around the base, and a carpeting over the sand (in
which the pot of the plant is plunged) of Selaginella
or Club Moss are also used. This might be termed
a vernal or spring arrangement. If this design is
required in a larger form as a centre-picce to a fair-
sized table, the Palm may be from about three feet to
three fect six inches in height, and even taller, if the
table is of extra width and length. We have used
them three feet or more in height with good effect,
entwining a climber around the stem, or using an
extra long spike of an Orchid, as Oncidiwm sphace-
latum, instead. Nothing exceeding a six-inch pot
should be allowed for the largest plants in this kind
of work. We avoid even this size as far as we can,
for the simple object of keeping the base as low as
possible, to avoid any heaviness in appearance. Many
who attempt these designs fail in this important
point at the commencement of their work, it being
necessary to keep the mounding of Moss or Selagi-
nella as dwarf as can be, so that it is in proportion
to the width at the base—say, for instance, if the
height be five inches or thereabouts, the width should
be about double, and with the addition of foliage to
rest on the cloth another eight inches will have to be
added to the diameter, which will not be any too
much.

As a centre-picce to a table capable of dining from
twenty to twenty-four persons, an oval dish, about
the middle size, is better than a plate, as it affords
the means of extending the base towards the ends of
the table by keeping the dish lengthwise. The pot
of the plant that is used must not exceed the six-
inch diameter, even with this dish in lieu of a plate;
room will, however, be found for two or three tiny
Ferns, Pandanus Veitchii, when well developed in 2
small state, or the small Caladiwm argyrites. Plants
of the Chinese Primula, when flowered in three-inch
pots, can also be used, but taking them out of their
pots for the occasion. Take, for instance, am ar-
rangement during the spring-time, having one of the
afore-named Palms as a centre, with a surrounding
of two small Pandanus, « few tiny Ferns, and three
or four Primulas, all from the smallest pots. When
these have been fixed in the sand, the intervening
space can be covered with Moss, and some few cut

‘flowers and foliage added to complete the arrange-

ment, such as a few blooms of Tulips like Vermilion
Brilliant, Chrysolora, or the distinct self-coloured
Duc van Thols; two shades of colour being sufficient,
and five or six blossoms quite enough to use. A few
spikes of Lilies of the Valley or flowers of the
Daffodils would be a suitable addition.

From the stove, in place of these that we have

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

- quoted, the following flowers could with advantage
be displayed. Of the Eucharis a few blossoms, with
three or four spathes of the Anthurium Scherzerianum,
or spikes of Centropogon Lucianus. The upright
forms of Gloxinia are also very suitable, and should
the arrangement be for use in the day-time, the
beautiful blue of Eranthemum pulchellum would be
a valuable addition. Around the edge of the dish, a
few pieces of the fronds of Adiantum cardiochlena
would be a useful help, with here and there a trail-
ing shoot of Asparagus plumosus nanus, and a few
leaves now and again of one or two sorts of the
broad-leaved Crotons or the fine-foliaged Begonias,
of medium size only.

Small Plants.—With respect to the smaller
sizes of plants, for placing in tea-saucers and the
like, these are of great value for placing down the
sides of the table, when this is of extra length.
These will best arrange in pairs or fours of each
kind. Pandanus Veitchii again comes to the front as
one of the best of its kind, and when well-coloured,
in a very small state, is not easily surpassed on the
dinner-table. Small Ferns and Palms in pots of
about two and a half inches diameter, or not exceed-
ing three inches, wiil also look well. In this small
state, one of the prettiest of Ferns that can be used
is Asplenium cicutarium, which might be more ex-
tensively cultivated; and among the Palms, Geonoma
gracilis, Hyophorbe Verschaffeltii, and Areca Herbstii
(Acanthophenix crinitus), with Chamedorea elegantis-
sima, may be added to the list of those kinds already
given. With these small plants, the dressing around
the pots must be kept as small and close as can be done
in an ordinary tea-saucer. Fronds of Davallia bullata,
or other small-growing Ferns, as Maiden-hairs, &c.,
should be used. If the Moss or other material to cover
the sand is nice and fresh, it would be quite optional
whether any flowers are used besides the Fern foliage
just referred to; we have done it in both ways, and
in either manner the effect has been pleasing. With
the Pandanus, we have dotted in a few blossoms of
Ipomea Horsfallieg, the rich colour of which con-
trasted well with the green and white of the Pan-
danus. The lovely shade of colour in Franciscea
calycina major would be an excellent change from the

_Tpomea. Cyclamen flowers, too, would be very
pretty around the Palms, and from the herbaceous
border the Aquilegias or Columbines of the improved
types could be used with very good effect. The
hardy species of Primulas, Anemone fulgens, and the
Chrysanthemum frutescens, or Paris Daisies, would
all work in for these little arrangements with other
similar flowers at different periods of the year.

As a farther addition, instead of using any
specimen glasses, take a few nice compact tufts of

211

Selaginella from three-inch pots, and cut away the
lower half of the ball, after which place the same in
any available receptacle, or on a thick piece of card-
board, if nothing else can be got; then on each of
these one specimen flower could be dotted, as a
Rosebud or Camellia for instance.

This description of a system of dinner-table de-
corations, without the aid of either costly epergnes,
choice glass or china vases, or other accessories,
will be sufficient to show that none of these suppose1
necessaries need be relied upon entirely, or at all.
Each of the systems can be combined with good
effect, but, in our opinion, the flowers and foliage
should be the central point of attraction, and costly
exterior aid regarded as entirely superfluous.

General Arrangement.—Whatsoever method
of arrangement may be decided upon for any given
occasion, due consideration must be given to the
other necessary adjuncts of a well-ordered table, so
that everything when completed has no appearance
of being overcrowded. The placing of the dessert
must receive proper attention, and room be allowed
for the same accordingly, within easy reach of tho
guests. Except for the top and bottom ends of the
table, no dessert-dishes ought to be placed in a line
with the central arrangements, in which position they
would be difficult of access. For general purposes,
glass dishes for the fruit are as useful, or even more
so than those of china and other material. They
have alight appearance when filled, not being as a
matter of necessity so heavy in make as the china.
Glass baskets are extremely pretty for small fruits,
and when carefully filled with such, as Figs, Straw-
berries, and Cherries, they form a distinct and somc-
what novel feature on the table.

A stand or design of flowers in the centre of the
table would be sufficient when intended for from
eight to twelve persons. After allowance has been
made for the dish of fruit at each end, should there
be too much space still left, if no lights have to be
used, two pairs of small plants could be placed in a
line with the centre, dressed around with Moss, &c.,
as previously explained. Four more dishes of fruit
should at least be allowed for, being two on each
side; any remaining space to be filled up could be
done with either specimen glasses or dot plants,
according to the size of the table. As this increascs

in length to seat from twelve to twenty or more

persons, the two designs on each side of the centre-
piece must be correspondingly increased in dimen-
sions, to make them more prominent, but still
retaining the central stand as the most conspicuous.
More than three prominent groups are hardly ever
necessary, even to seat twenty-four persons. If it
is deemed requisite to have any addition through the

212

centre, two slender Palms, of well-proportioned out-
line, would be the best to choose, in order to avoid
any density in appearance when looking from end to
eud. The dishes of fruit should also be increased in
proportion to the table, but avoid placing two dishes
to flank the centre-piece if possible, filling up any
spare space as before. If the flowers be plentiful,
some suitable selections may be placed on or against
each napkin, such as Rosebuds, for instance.
| For smaller tables either one stand or vase of
light design would be ample, or a well-grown plant
instead could be used as a centre-piece. We rather
prefer the latter, leaving the flowers to be displayed
in small specimen glasses. These dinner-table plants
are all the better preserved in good condition if
changéd every day, or at least three times a week.
We practise the “ every-day” change, having a good
_reserve to choose from. Tables that seat from four
_to six persons are most pleasing in appearance, we
always think, when of circular form.

_ Dessert.—With regard to the dessert, some few

remarks are necessary in respect to the arrangement.
_ The system of intermixing both fruit and flowers on
the same dish has no good quality to recommend
itself to our notice. Many kinds of fruit require

most careful handling to preserve the bloom intact,

as Grapes, for instance; these in the mixed-up way
would most likely suffer. Perhaps also the kind of

fruit most wanted could not be taken without dis-

turbing some others. We much prefer keeping each

kind on a separate dish, unless only a very limited

‘quantity is desired. In laying Grapes on a dish,
the best plan is to hold the dish up on its end in one
hand, and then place the bunch against it, whenever

it is of extra size. The bunch will thus take all its

bearings at once, and friction between the berries
will be diminished. The plan sometimes followed of
cutting up the bunches into small pieces ought never

to. be allowed. ‘With Pine-apples, if the fruit is

‘likely to be consumed at once, it had better be
broken up with a fork than cut with a knife; the

Juice being thus better retained in each piece. Very
flelicate handling is most requisite with Peaches,

Nectarines, Strawberries, and Pears with clear skins.

For dishing up the dessert, no leaves surpass those

of the Vine for general use. Small leaves of the

Bay-tree look very well for Oranges, but on the

whole Vine-leaves are the best when obtainable.

These have no equal, as some kinds assume their

beautiful tints with the ripening of the wood during

‘the late summer. and autumn. When any large
quantity has to be supplied, it is the best plan to

hhave a reserve Vine for that purpose in the open
air, trained against a wall. The Esperione and

‘Parsley-leaved Vines would thus be ornaments as

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

well as being useful. A few fronds of Maiden-
hair Fern might be added here and there for
special occasions, or small leaves of other plants with
distinct coloration to those of the Vine. When all
deciduous foliage has fallen, we can resort to the
leaves of Berberis, Ivy, Aucuba, and the common
Laurel, with the “ Portugal” too. Except the first-
named, all the other foliage had better be picked a
day or two before wanted for use, in order to reduce
the strong smell arising from them. The leaves of
some deciduous trees could be kept for a long time
after having fallen; those of the Scarlet Oak
(Quercus coccinea) would be of considerable use in
this way, if kept pressed out flat. To keep Vine-
leaves fresh and free from curling, they should be
laid between two plates or dishes, which is better
than piacing them in water.

General Design.—In the decorations of the
dining-table it is much the better plan to carefully
consider all arrangements beforehand, so that one
can, as it were, see the completion in his mind’s
eye previous to the commencement, at least to a
certain extent. The colours also must be chosen
to suit the light, blue being allowed only to a
limited amount in those designs to be viewed under
artificial light. Two or three shades of the same

colour should not be used in close association,

Single flowers are in most cases preferable to double
forms, and unless it be in circumstances of emergency
we like to keep them apart. Take for an instance
the flowers of the Eucharis, the Pancratium, the
Vallota, the Agapanthus, the Amaryllis, the Liliums,
the Cactus, the Azaleas, the Dipladenias, the Alla-
mandas, the Passion Flowers, the single Dahlias,
the single Anemones, the Iris, the Bouvardias, and
Chinese Primulas (single), let alone the Orchidaceous
plants and others that might be cited—there are no
double flowers comparable to them for effective and
artistic displays. Double flowers may look showy,
but there is an amount of heaviness about most of
them that cannot be effaced. Those who may not
have practised the use of single flowers by them-
selves, could with advantage make a start in that
direction, and compare the results for themselves.
‘We would also advocate the occasional employ-
ment of what may be termed distinctive arrange-
ments, By this we mean the carrying out of a
design with nearly, or quite, all the flowers being
gathered from one genus, admitting only those that
bear a resemblance. Thus, Roses by themselves;
the Chrysanthemums the same; Bouvardias too, in
distinct colours, make a striking arrangement;
Gloxinias also, with a liberal mixture of Maiden-
hair Fern; Begonias with their own handsome
foliage, varying in shades from the pale green of

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

B. manicata to the ITustrous metallic leaves of
B, metallica, and from the silvery foliage of B.
Princess Charlotte to the reddish-brown of B.
incarnata purpurescens. In Begonias alone there is
a wide field for exercising one’s abilities in de-
coration. They are not the best of flowers for
keeping fresh for any length of time, but this must
not always be regarded as an essential property.
We have made very effective groups with the leaves
of B. metallica, and the panicles of bloom from
B. nitida odorata, the pure white flowers being seen
to advantage with the dark foliage. Take again the
foliage of a silvery-leaved variety, and the flowers
of a pink kind, either by itself or blend another
colour with it, and you have a good display. The
host of tuberous-rooted varieties yield an abundant
choice in colour during the summer months. All
Begonias will keep the better if arranged with long
stems in water only.

As another example we will direct attention to
what may be termed the “esthetic” flowers now so
much in request. Many of these are very distinct
and effective; such, for instance, as Rudbeckia New-
manni, Chrysanthemum frutescens, or Paris Daisies
(yellow and white), the single Pyrethrums, the
Star-worts or Asters, of which A. leucanthemum is
one of the best whites. Harpalium rigidum, similar
to the Sunflowers, but of more convenient size, and
the Gaillardias, are both useful in this class of de-
coration. The many shades of single Dahlias afford
plenty of choice for such work. These and other
similar subjects would be of close resemblance in
character, yet harmonising well together by a
judicious choice of colour.

Another system of arrangement, which is as
effective as any we know, is obtained by selecting
flowers from closely-allied families of plants, which
we would designate “ characteristic arrangements.”
Of such as this, no better example can be given than
that to be had from the numerous Liliaceous plants of
varied habit and colour, not necessarily resembling
one another in any way, yet when brought into close
unison with each other they are most strikingly
effective. Take for instance the red, white, and
blue of the Vallota, the Eucharis, and the Aga-
panthus, or the White Water Lily, with the German,
Spanish, and English Iris. Take the same Water
Lily again, with some small spikes of Gladiolus, or
the Scarlet Turk’s Cap Lily, and in either case you
have an effective display, by adding suitable foliage,
not forgetting the Sedges (Carer sp. and Cyperus sp.).
Schizostylis coccinea in the late autumn is excellent
in company with the Eucharis or with the slender
spikes of the Roman Hyacinth. Lilies of the Valley
with Lachenalia tricolor and Astilbe japonica are
very pretty. The latter is in fact useful in all such

213

arrangements as we have just commented upon.
The Forget-me-nots, too, are very suitable with
Water Lilies, the summer-flowering varieties being
in perfection at the same time, and to be found in
catalogues under the name of Myosotis palustris and
UW. azorica. One spike with about two open blossoms
and a bud ready to expand of Lilium longiflorum
would be well placed in an upright and natural
manner against the stem of a glass stand, not each
flower cut off and laid flat, but used entire with
a good length of stem. Around this, but lower,
about three spathes of Anthurium Scherzerianum,
and the same number of a blue Iris, with a few
flowers of the White Water Lily at the base, would
afford a good example of this style of decoration.

Some such system of arranging flowers is much to
be preferred to what is most commonly seen carried
out, under what we call indiscriminate arrangements.
By this we mean the grouping together of a few
pieces of this, that, and another kind of flower, that
do not harmonise and blend with each other. It may |
be fairly termed the mixed-medley style of doing the
work; the operator relying for effect, such as it is,
on the greatest variety of form and colour that can
be in any way got into onedesign. This isthe more
to be condemned when several stands have to be filled
for placing in the same apartment, imparting a same-
ness or similarity that is wearisome to the eye. Even
where one vase only of more than average size has to
be filled, this collecting together in one incongruous
or indefinite mass of many flowers, which have no
affinity in any way, is still to be condemned. The
same rule holds good in‘all arrangements throughout
the house in this respect. We have noticed more
than once that the decorations have looked the best
when the supply has been short wherewith to do the
work. The temptation to use more flowers than are
really necessary is not so easily resisted when any
considerable quantity is at hand. It is also a mistake
to spend too much time in dressing the stands or
vases; some of the prettiest that we have done have
been when pushed for time to complete them.

Flowers with powerful perfumes should not be ex-
tensively used in any table decorations; and some that
we have quoted have a tendency in this direction. Of
such we advise but few to be worked into any one set
of designs at the same time. Gardenias, Stephanotis,
and other strongly-scented flowers, should never be
made free use of in the dining-room for any purpose
whatever. There are plenty of ways in which such
as these can be utilised in other apartments.

Preservation.—After the flowers have served -
their purpose, should there have been much gas con-
sumed, or the temperature of the room rather high,
it will much revive them if they can be taken to a

214

cooler place, and slightly bedewed with a fine rose of
a water-pot or a syringe, when the table is cleared.
If any are only resting temporarily in their place,
without having the means of obtaining sufficient
moisture, these should be placed in water till again
required. With close attention to these and minor
dctails the flowers can be greatly economised for
future use when the demand too nearly approaches
the supply. These remarks apply more forcibly to
the system, sometimes followod, of laying the flowers
on the table-cloth, and working out designs thereon
with the same, in which case the flowers will quickly
suffer if not again placed in water. This custom of
laying the flowers on the cloth has not the slightest
good quality to recommend it; all natural habit and
style of growth being, so to speak, lost. We have
not thought fit, therefore, to advocate this system in
any way, beyond stating that when such means are

employed it should only be to fill up a vacancy where.

no suitable receptacle can possibly be placed conve-
niently ; but long shoots of trailing plants look very
pretty when allowed to rest on the cloth, in attenua-
tion, as it were, from either of the designs.

Finally, our remarks on dinner-table decorations
have all been made under the assumption that the
cloth was of the usual or ordinary colour, When
such is not the case, and coloured strips are laid
through the centre of the table, it requires more care-
ful judgment in the selection of both flowers and
foliage, to avoid any clashing between one and the
other. The colour of cloth most to be avoided is
green ; other shades do not so much matter; but inno
case do we think any shade surpasses a white damask
-cloth in its entirety.

‘THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS.

By Dr. Maxweut T. Masters, F,B.S.

WHAT THE LEAVES DO—THE SAP.

N the animal kingdom the work of nutrition,
at any rate in all the higher groups, com-
‘prises several secondary processes, such as the
prehension of food, its mastication, solution, and
digestion, When at length, after a series of
‘changes, the food gets converted into blood, it is re-
quisite that the new or crude blood, together with
that vitiated and rendered impure in its transit
through the body, should be exposed to the atmo-
sphere or to the oxygen in it. This is effected,
in the higher animals and man, by its passage
through the lungs, where, by the agency of respi-
ration, the crude and impure fluid becomes oxy-
genated, and then, in the form of red arterial
blood, is pumped by the heart’s action into every
part of the body. In plants the same gereral results

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

are brought about in a simpler fashion, as might
have been anticipated, from their simpler structure,
and the terms circulation and respiration can only be
made use of in a general sense, and not as implying
exact identity of process. The roots and the leaves
may roughly be compared with the organs of pre-
hension of animals. The roots avail themselves of
the water inthe soil, and, in addition, they exert a
solvent action, which enables them to render-the inert
and insoluble matters suitable for the nutrition of
the plant. In.this sense the roots seize and manufac-
ture what they require. The leaves have a similar
action. They lay hold of the gases in the atmo-
sphere, absorb them, and transmute them. Some-
times they absorb liquid or vapour; under given
conditions they always exhale it. The result of the
conjoined action of the roots and of the leaves is the
formation of food—true food—fitted for the nourish-
ment of existing tissues and the creation of new ones.

The “Sap” and its Course.—Hence there
must be some communication between the roots
below and the leaves above. But—and this is a
point upon which the greatest stress must be laid—
that communication is indirect. There is in a plant
no continuous system of pipes or tubes, such as
exists in the case of the blood-vessels of animals,
The blood of an animal is of the same constitution
throughout, according to its twofold nature—that is
to say, that while the venous blood keeps its cha-
racter, the arterial blood is, in its turn, uniform in
composition, into whatever part of the body it may
flow. It is not so with the juices of plants. They
are not uniform in all parts of the plant, but they
have one composition in one place or at one time,
another in another situation or at a different period.

It is necessary to insist upon these points, for the
old doctrine of the circulation of a crude ascending
sap, passing in regular channels and currents from
the roots to the leaves, and then down again in the
form of “elaborated” sap, is one to which gardeners
cling tenaciously, though the scientists, without any
exception, have long ago either greatly modified or
entirely abandoned it. Modern research has shown
that the facts observed by the gardener are suscep-
tible (even where the observation itself is accurate)
of a very different interpretation from that which hoe
is accustomed to put upon them.

We may here quote what we have said elsewhere
on this subject (Henfrey’s “Elementary Course of
Botany,” ed. 4, p. 564) : “In spring, when vegeta-
tion is most active, or at other times when special
circumstances favour growth in particular places, a
current of watery sap, containing relatively little of
the matters formed in consequence of leaf-action, is
Specially manifest; and as the ends of the shoots

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS.

and buds are at this period centres of activity, so the
flow is mainly an upward one. In autumn, when
consolidation of tissues and storage of nutritive
matters are the chief operations of the plant, there is
an increased necessity for the presence of matters
formed in consequence of leaf-action, and the flow is
then, to a large extent, a downward one. But there
is no absolute difference between crude and elabo-
rated saps, and no absolutely fixed course for them to
take. The ascending sap consists of water pumped
up from the roots to supply the requirements of the
growing cells and the chemical changes going on in
them, and the excess of it is evaporated when the
leaves expand; but, though mainly watery, it con-
tains some mineral matters, and also some ingre-
dients which must have been derived from the
action of the leaves of the preceding season.”

In what manner the fluid absorbed by the roots is
taken up has been explained; how it passes as it, or
some of it, does, against gravity, from the roots to
the leaves of the tallest tree, is still, to a consider-
able extent, a matter of controversy. The assigned
causes are diffusion, before explained ; capillary at-
traction, or the adhesion and upward movement of
fluids in tubes of minute bore ; atmospheric pressure,
or that exercised by the elasticity of the cell-walls,
or by the expansion by heat of ‘the bubbles of air
mixed with the fluid, which in thcir expansion push
the fluid before them ; the swaying to and fro of
branches, &c. When so many explanations are
given, it is pretty certain that we have not yet
arrived definitely at the true one.

Bleeding of Vines.—In spring, when the in-
creasing temperature stimulates the roots to renewed
action, the plant becomes gorged with water, because
at first there is no transpiration from the leaves to
balance the influx, and the air within the tissues
becomes consequently compressed. If now the
plant be wounded, the sudden expansion of the air
pushes up the fluid, and much of it escapes, as in the
so-called “bleeding ” or “tears” of the vine. The
analogy, however, whether between the ascending
sap and the blood, or between it and tears, is almost
wholly fanciful, as the fluid in question has few of
the characteristics of those whose names it bears.
The ascending sap consists almost entirely of pure
water, with traces of mineral ingredients, and some-
times with a notable quantity of sugar. Attfield
has lately shown that the tears of the Birch (of
which in one day 63 Ib. were collected from one

‘ tree, and 1,486 Ib. from November to May) con-
tained 99 per cent. of water, with 1 per cent. of
solid matter, eleven-twelfths of which latter con-
sisted of sugar. The sugar had probably been
washed out from the cells during the upward rush.

216

At any rate, were this so-called ascending sap a
highly nutritive fluid, its loss in such large quanti-
ties as sometimes happens (as in the collection of
Maple-sugar) would be productive of much more
serious results than is usually the case, for the fears
of gardeners as to the ill-effects of bleeding in the
Vine are, if not wholly without foundation, at least
not proportionate to the observed consequences.

Tissues through which the Sap Passes.—
The so-called ascending sap has been ascertained to
pass up through the soft young wood, either through
the cavities of tho cells, passing from one to the other
by osmosis, as happens in spring, when the tissues
are gorged, or by imbibition through the walls of
the cells, mounting thus from cell to cell as the
water mounts in a piece of blotting-paper, the lower
end of which is soaked in water.

The fluid contained in a leaf may, therefore, be
considered to have been derived from the stem,
which, in its turn, acquired it through the agency of
the roots. Under certain circumstances, no doubt,
leaves, or even stems, may themselves absorb water
or watery vapour directly from the atmosphere, as
is proved by the effects of syringing after a hot dry
day ; but for the present purpose water so obtained
may be disregarded, and we may confine ourselves to
the juices in the leaf which have been derived more
or less circuitously and indirectly from the root.
These leaf-juices undergo various changes as a direct
consequence of their exposure to the atmosphere.
They take in some gases; they give out others. In
this broad sense leaves are like the lungs of animals,
and have a corresponding office. But the processes
are not strictly identical, and the leaves have work
to do which is not required of the lungs. It is no
part of the lungs’ duty—at least it is not a primary
duty—to get rid of the superfluous water from
the system; that is done by the skin and kid-
neys. On the other hand, it is one of the chief
duties of the leaf to exhale and evaporate super-
fluous moisture. The juices are modified by the
changes which take place in the leaf, according
as certain gases are absorbed or exhaled, and ac-
cording as a larger or smaller quantity of water is
evaporated from their surface. But this is not all ;
the leaf is not only exposed to atmospheric influence ;
it is during the day-time subjected to the influence
of light, of course conjoined with heat; and this com-
bined effect of light and heat produces a series of
changes and transformations in the juices of the
plant to which there is no parallel in the animal
kingdom, unless perhaps in the lowest groups, which
partake, to some extent, of the characteristics of
both kingdoms, but which may be left out cf con-
sideration for our purpose. A leaf, then, unites

216

in itself the functions of the skin, of the kidneys, of
the lungs, of the digestive organs, and of the manu-
facturing glands. No wonder physiologists wince
when they see a gardener cutting off Strawberry-
leaves, or engaged in cutting away what has been
formed at such an expenditure of power, and which
itself contains so much latent force for use when
required. Nevertheless, the gardener may, from
his point of view, be quite correct. His require-
ments are not the same as those of the plant in a
state of nature, and long experience has taught him
how to make the plant subservient to his wishes. If
the physiologist carried out his principles he would
subordinate the man to the plant; the gardener’s aim
is just the reverse.

In considering the work done by the leaf, then,
we may treat of it as: 1, an organ of perspiration ;
2, of breathing ; 3, of manufacture; 4, of digestion.

The Leaf as an Organ of Perspiration.—
It needs no elaborate apparatus to demonstrate this
action of the leaf. Place a ieaf under a bell-glass,
expose it to the sun, and shortly the inner surface of
the glass will be bedewed with moisture; so it will
be if kept in the dark in a sufficiently warm place.
If this simple experiment be objected to on the
score that, as the leaf is detached from the plant,
it is not a fair test, there are plenty of other means
of showing it not open to this objection. The
inside of a green-house or of a Ward's case will show
the fact, though in these instances the evaporation
is partly from the soil; but the most convincing
proof of all is afforded by the withering of leaves
that takes place on a hot, dry, sunny day. See how
the Phloxes in the garden and even the Mangels
in the field hang their leaves under such circum-
stances. The scientists can prove the fact beyond
dispute, and they can likewise measure its amount
under different circumstances very exactly, but in
practice we have no need for such nicety. ‘The
amount given off is very large, varying according to
different circumstances. It is greatest when the
plant is simultaneously placed under the influence

of bright light and high temperature, and lowest:

under the opposite circumstances. When, however,
the atmosphere is saturated, temperature has no
effect in increasing the amount of evaporation from
plants. Blue light and next to it red light are most
efficacious in promoting transpiration. Yellow light
is much less so, and green light is not more effective
from this point of view than darkness itself,

The texture and construction of the leaves modify
the amount of transpiration very materially—the
younger and more delicate 'the structure, the greater
the amount of transpiration. The older the leaf,
or the thicker its skin—as, for instance, in succulent

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

plants—the less is given off. Under normal cir-
cumstances, where the quantity of fluid given off is
not materially greater than can be replaced by root
absorption, or furnished from the stores in the plant,
probably no harm arises from this transpiration,
and the flow of water may probably facilitate some
of the chemical changes which go on concurrently
in the leaf. But where the balance is disturbed,
the sufferings of the plant become evident. It may
be that, provided water be supplied, little or no
permanent harm may accrue; but, considering the
amount of force or energy expended in the process,
and the loss of temperature involved in it, it is
obvious that if transpiration be excessive or fre-
quently repeated, the plant will suffer. It is more
than probable, though it has not been definitely
proved, that much of the ill-effect arising from a
plant having experienced a “check” during growth
may be attributed to excessive or disproportionate
transpiration. Fortunately that is a matter easily
avoided by the gardener who has water-supply and
means of shading at command. .The use of green
glass in conservatories, as at Kew, may in part be
explained by the check it imposes to too vigorous
leaf-action.

How the Leaves Breathe.—In the case of the
lungs of animals, the inhalation of atmospheric air
and its passage through the lungs is effected. by
means of powerful muscles and contractile tubes.
A different set of muscles promotes expiration. In
plants there is no such machinery available, unless
it be in the case of the stomata or pores (ante,
p. 162), which contract or open according to circum:
stances, and so regulate both the emission of water
and the entrance of gases. For the most part, how-
ever, the entrance of air into the plant is due
solely to the power of penetration or diffusion which
gases have, and which has the closest analogy with
the process of osmosis formerly spoken of, and by
virtue of which the gases pass through the skin of
the leaf when not too thick or obstructed by waxy
exudations. The breathing process in plants pre-
sents many analogies, some say it is identical, with
that of animals. In both it is a continuous process
going on day and night; but while in the case of
the animal it is limited to the lungs or gills, in plants
it takes place over the whole surface, where the
texture is favourable to the passage of gases.

Atmospheric air when pure has the following
average composition :—

Volume per Cent.
Oxygen. ‘ 20°970
Nitrogen . “ 79-000
Carbonic acid. ‘ - 0:030
100-000

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS.

On the moors of Scotland, Angus Smith found
20°99 per cent. of oxygen in the atmosphere, as
contrasted with 20-74 in the pit of a theatre, or the
tunnels of the Metropolitan Railway, and 20-14 in
mines. When the volume falls to 18°50 the light of
candles is extinguished. Carbonic acid varies in
proportionate volume, according to the same observer,
from 2°50 per cent. in some Cornish mines to as little
as 033. The significance of these figures will
become more apparent further on; all that need be
said here is that by the agency of the respiratory
process the plant obtains the oxygen necessary to
insure the activity of the protoplasm. Without it
life is brought to a standstill by suffocation, just
as in the case of an animal similarly deprived.
Every separate portion of the plant, moreover, must
have its own independent supply, and cannot trust
to receive it from any other portion. There are,
indeed, certain Bacteria which appear to thrive with-
out oxygen; but we need not further allude to these
exceptional cases, as they do not, so far as we at
present know, concern the ordinary gardener. There
is at the present time a difference of opinion between
chemists as to whether the process of respiration in
vegetables is identical with that in animals, or only
correspondent, for while some assert that there is no
fixed relation in plants, as there is in animals, be-
tween the quantity of oxygen absorbed and the
volume of carbonic acid emitted, others, like MM.
Bonnier and Mangin, maintain the reverse. The
production of the carbonic acid gas from leaves when
they are plunged in an atmosphere of hydrogen or
nitrogen without any oxygen at all, isa proof that in
these cases the elimination of the carbonic acid is
not a respiratory act, but the result of changes in the
composition of the tissues of the plant.

The proportion of oxygen absorbed increases
with the temperature, so that it may be said,
if we required to make a plant breathe deeply, all
we have to do is increase the temperature. But
the amount of oxygen absorbed varies under like
conditions in different plants. Succulent plants like
Agaves absorb least, evergreen leaves more, and
ordinary deciduous leaves most (De Saussure). A
flower takes up more oxygen in proportion than
a root or a leaf, and the stamens of a flower take up
more than the outer parts. Young leaves of the
same plant absorb more than older ones. The effect
of this continual influx of oxygen is to “ oxidise”
certain of the substances in the plant, and to give
rise to changes of the utmost importance, but which
it falls to the lot of the chemist rather than of the
botanist to explain.

Two points, however, we must allude to as ne-
cessary concomitants or consequences of oxidation,
and these are the elimination of carbonic acid gas

217

concurrently with the inhalation of oxygen, and
the production of heat. The entrance of oxygen
and the emission of carbonic acid gas are simply the
beginning and the end respectively of a long and com-
plicated series of changes in the plant —changes but.
very imperfectly known at present. These chemical
transmutations are attended with the production of
heat. A certain amount of heat is requisite to
insure the activity of the molecules or ultimate
particles of the protoplasm, and if this be not
forthcoming, the protoplasm remains inactive, and
sooner or later dies. This internal heat generated
in the living plant (or animal), and essential to its
life, is a necessary consequence of oxidation. Oxida-
tion, then, maintains the internal heat of plants, and
while it is the source and origin of some substances
within the plant, it tends at the same time to de-
stroy the tissues in the same way that they would
be destroyed by fire, but of course without flame.
Respiration is thus a destructive process, which of
itself would destrcy the plant were the waste so
caused not compensated for by the nutritive pro-
cesses.

Chlorophyll.—Perspiration, as has been stated,
takes place, subject to a few exceptions, from
all or any part of the surface of a plant, by day
and by night; in plants like fungi, which have
no green matter, as well as in those which do
possess it. In those plants, however, which contain
green matter (chlorophyll) changes go on during the
day-time (that is, when the green matter is exposed
to the light) of exactly the opposite nature to
those mentioned under the head of respiration.
Oxygen gas is now given off and carbon is now
retained in the plant to build up its structure.
Ifa leaf be placed in water and exposed to the sun,
in a very short time bubbles of gas may be observed
to collect on the leaves, and by appropriate chemical
means it may easily be shown that these bubbles
consist principally of oxygen gas. Here again the
aid of the chemist is necessary, and for the full con-
sideration of the matter recourse must be had to
chemical works.

Food of Plants.—The substance of which the
tissue of plants is composed consists of ‘ cellulose,”
and is composed of certain proportions of carbon, of
oxygen, and hydrogen, in combination with water.
This cellulose forms the membrane of the cells in
the cell-walls, within which is the protoplasm before
alluded to, and which latter contains, in addition
to the substances just mentioned, a quantity of
nitrogen. Besides these four elements just men-
tioned, which are indispensable to all plants, as the
constituents of cellulose and protoplasm, there
exist minute quantities of phosphorus and sulphur,

218 CASSELL’'S POPULAR GARDENING.

and various mineral matters already alluded to under
the head of root-action, such as potassium, calcium,
iron, &c., which are also in their degree indispens-
able, and others that are less so. In considering
the manner in which these substances are introduced
into the plant, we shall gain an idea of the in-
terdependence of roots and leaves, and in tracing
their combinations in the plant we shall of necessity
learn something of the nature of leaf-action, and
especially of the influence of ths green matter called
chlorophyll. In the first place it must be repeated
that the elements above referred to are some of them
introduced by the agency of the roots and root-hairs ;
others by the mediation of the leaves. In neither
case are the elements received in their uncombined
state, but in combination with other elements.

These matters are often spoken of loosely as con-
stituting the food of plants. Plants are said to
feed on carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen,
together with the mineral matters above men-
tioned. Strictly speaking this is an error. These
elements do not, as taken into the plant, suffice
to nourish it any more than the oxygen, nitrogen,
carbon, &c., of which beef and bread are made
up, directly nourish us. In our case even the beef
and the bread are not of themselves foods. It is not
till they have undergone in the stomach and intes-
tines certain complicated chemical changes that they
become actually fit to serve as food. They furnish
the material out of which food is made, but they are
not the food itself. So with the plant, it is not till
the materials taken in by the root and by the leaf
conjointly have undergone chemical changes carried
on in, or at least in connection with, the green
matter, when exposed to light, that they become
fit to nourish the plant, repair its waste, and form
new tissue. The leaf,'then, or the green matter in
it, under the conditions we have mentivned, is the
great agent in converting the materials of food into
food itself. Let us, then, have a little more respect
for the leaves, tend them, keep them clean and
unobstructed, especially their under surface, and
afford them every facility for fulfilling their office as
purveyors, cooks, builders, and purifiers of the plant.

The Use of Chlorophyll.—It will be noticed
that, in speaking of the leaves as the concocters
and digesters of food, we have laid special stress
on the green matter, and for the reason that
in some way or another, exactly how is still a
matter of controversy, this chlorophyll plays an
essential part.. But chlorophyll is not a uni-
versal constituent in plants. It is not found in
every cell even of green plants. It is entirely
wanting in all the great host of fungi, How, then,
do; cells destitute of chlorophyll live? How do

fungi feed in the absence of this green matter? In
answer to these questions, it may be said that the
colourless cells of green plants live at the expense
of their more richly endowed neighbours. They
are, as it were, parasitic upon them. Thus, in the
case of fungi we know but too well that they do not
collect and prepare their own food, but that they
either live a parasitic existence on’ other plants,
or derive their nourishment from the decay of
animal or vegetable substances. The green plants
absorb the raw material, and, under the agency of
light, transform it into food. The fungi feed upon
the matter already manufactured by others, and are
thus comparatively independent of light. Cells
destitute of chlorophyll can feed and grow in the
dark, but they cannot collect raw material nor manu-
facture it into food for themselves. Cells provided
with chlorophyll can grow and digest in the dark,
but they cannot convert the inorganic matter derived
from soii or atmosphere into food unless exposed
to light.

Reverting to the raw materials of plant-food, it
may be repeated.that the carbon is derived by the .
leaves from the atmosphere in the form of carbonic
acid, the hydrogen and oxygen as water are ab-
sorbed by the roots, and in a gaseous form, in com-
bination, by the leaves. Nitrogen gains access in the
form of nitrates or as ammonia salts, also by the
roots, by which likewise the various mineral in-
gredients are taken up as previously explained.
Oxygen is thus taken up both by the leaves and by
the roots: in the former case from the atmosphere,
as a gas essential to respiration; in the latter case
in combination with other matters, and destined to
take part in the transformation of the food-material
into food.

Influence of Light and Heat.—The first
and most striking effect observed when chloro-
phyll is exposed to light is, as has been above said,
the emission of oxygen gas. This is supposed to
result from the splitting up or disintegration of the
carbonic acid gas of the atmosphere into oxygen,
which is given off, and carbon, which is retained, the
proportion between the carbonic acid absorbed and
the oxygen given off being in this case definite. As
the solid matter of plants consists in by far larger
proportion of carbon than of any other ingredient,
the desirability of giving leaves free access to light
becomes obvious, and in the laboratory the chloro-
phyll is found to do its work most thoroughly when
subjected to the yellow or light-giving parts of the
spectrum, and least so when exposed to the chemical
rays, such as violet or blue. The amount of expo-
sure required varies according to structure and other
circumstances; shade-loving plants, like the Ferns,

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS.

which we may assume to resemble cold-blooded
animals, requiring far less full exposure to light
chan others. This is a matter which the gardener
finds out by rule of thumb, but it is certain that an
investigation of the microscopical structure of leaves
would in many cases afford him a sure basis of fact
for his guidance. The structure of the leaves of
Orchids has impressed this conviction strongly on
the mind of the present writer. May it not be long
ere those who have the requisite leisure and means
will work out this question, so important to the
practical cultivator !

The changes we have alluded to are not solely de-
pendent on light, but also on heat, there being a
degree below or above which the changes in question
do not take place, and between the two extremes onc
under which the change is carried out under the
most favourable circumstances. These circum-
stances vary in the case of individual plants, and
although, for practical purposes, they may be often
guessed at, yet experience and experiment alone can
determine them with any degree of certainty.

Although we cannot in this place attempt to enter
into detail on such a matter, we may say that the
chlorophyll, which till lately was supposed to be the
prime agent in the decomposition of carbonic acid,
the elimination of oxygen, and the changes conse-
quent upon them, is now by some considered not
itself to be the main factor in the series of changes
which go on in the leaf when exposed to light.
Pringsheim finds in chlorophyll a substance called
bypochlorin, which he considers to be an imme-
diate derivative from carbonic acid, and the only
one which cannot be formed in the absence of light.
Chlorophyll itself, he says, is not decomposed during
the assimilation of carbon, and is independent of the
absorption and even of the presence of carbonic acid.
Its decomposition is effected by the absorption of
oxygen in respiration. If this absorption of oxygen
in thé process of breathing be carried too far, the
chlorophyll is destroyed. If the balance between
oxidation as carried on constantly in the breathing
process, and de-oxidation as carried on in the green
tissues under the influence of sunlight be upset, and
oxidation be carried on disproportionately to de-
oxidation, then the plant suffers. According to
Pringsheim, it is the green colouring matter, the
chlorophyll, which regulates the two. By absorb-
ing, as it does, the chemical rays of light, it lessens
the energy of the breathing process, and it is owing
to the protecting screen afforded by the chlorophyll
that the amount of carbon received into and stored
in the plant in daylight is greater than the quantity
consumed by the respiratory process. The decom-
position of carbonic acid, on this view, would be
effected by the protoplasm. The question affords an

219

additional reason for the microscopical study of the
leaf, with a view to obtain hints for the rational cui-
tivation of plants deduced from their anatomical
structure, such as the presence and thickness of the
palisade cells, and its relation to the chemical
changes that go on in the leaf.

The Leaf as a Factory.—Whatever be the
exact work done by the chlorophyll, its presence
seems essential to the preparation of the food and to
the construction of new tissues, and we must briefly
allude now to its work in these directions. The
substances absorbed by the roots and leaves, acted on
by solar light, supply all the materials requisite for the
formation of new cell-walls, new protoplasm, and new
cell-contents of all kinds. These substances, how-
ever, are not all direct productions from chlorophyll,
but result from transmutations of one substance into
another, and from the-reciprocal action of one upon
another. The exact nature and sequence of these
changes is at present very imperfectly known,
though of the first consequence in enabling us to
understand what goes on in the living plant. We
can here only allude to some of the better-known
phenomena.

Starch.—The first product in the chlorophyll
cells exposed to light is generally admitted to be
starch ; some substance chemically allied to it, such
as sugar; or some fatty matter. Starch, as wo
have already shown, exists largely in the tissues
of most plants, especially in the reserve organs. Its
presence is easily ascertained by theaid of the micro-
scope, or by soaking the leaves in alcohol te remove
the chlorophyll, and then immersing the colourless
leaves in a strong solution of iodine, which turns the
starch blue. By these means it has been ascertained
that the same leaf may contain very different quanti-
ties of starch at different periods of the day, or ac-
cording to the state of the weather, the increase or
decrease being very rapid. Im the dark, or when a
portion of the leaf is protected by an opaque body
from the light, the starch disappears. Moreover, the
starch formed in the day-time under the influence of
the light disappears from the leaves at night. This
depends on the degree of temperature, and on the
health of the plant. It may be proved by dividing
a growing leaf lengthwise into two halves, at night-
fall, after a bright day. One half may be removed,
the other half allowed to remain during the night.
The half-leaf removed, if at once tested by iodine as
above described, will be found full of starch; the re-
maining half-leaf, if tested early next morning, after
having been exposed to darkness, will be found to
contain very little.

Again, if the leaf be cut in halves at sunrise no
starch is found in the half-leaf that is cut away; if

220

the other half be allowed to remain on the plant all
the day so as to be exposed to the sun, and be tested
at nightfall, abundance of starch will then be found.

It would seem, therefore, at first sight that the
formation, or at any rate the action, of diastase in
dissolving the starch must take place at night only ;
and this would be consistent with the now well-
established fact that new growth (not mere exten-
sion of old) takes place principally at night, or in
the dark. The change from the insoluble starch to
the soluble glucose goes on, however, during the
day as well as at night, though these changes are
less evident because during the day more starch is
formed than is abstracted. Sachs has endeavoured
to estimate the proportionate amount of starch pro-
duced in a given area of leaf-surface. By combining
his experimental results, and taking note of all the
circumstances, he “ concludes that twenty to twenty-
five grammes of starch per day may be produced by
one square metre of leaf-surface as an ordinary oc-
currence.” (One gramme is equal to 15 grains; one
square metre, to 1-09 square yard.)

It is clear that some very important practical
deductions may be drawn from these facts. If the
amount of starchy contents of leaves varies during
the day, and still more so at night, the period at
which such leaves are cut for food or forage becomes
a matter of great importance. The afterncon or
evening would: thus be indicated as the best periods
for cutting vegetables for salad, for cooking, or for
medicinal purposes, so as to secure the produce of
the day before it is drafted off elsewhere.

The rapidity of production of the starch depends
upon the intensity of light and the quantity of car-
bonic acid gas, the production being much more rapid
in intense light, and when the carbonic acid gas is in
large proportion. If there be no carbonic acid gas
at all, no starch is produced, even if the leaf be fully
exposed to the sun; moreover, any starch that had
been formed previously disappears as it would do. if
the leaf were kept in the dark. Starch is a ternary
combination of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen; and
by combining with the nitrogen, absorbed by the
roots as ammonia or nitrates, it forms the albuminoid
substances like protoplasm, the cell nucleus, &c.,
containing varying proportions of carbon, hydrogen,
oxygen, and nitrogen. On the other hand, by the
progressively increasing loss of oxygen, it may form
some of the vegetable acids, and ultimately of the
hydro-carbons, such as resins, in which oxygen is
entirely absent. The cellulose of the cell-wall is
formed, according to some observers, directly from
starch or sugar, of which it has the same chemical
composition, while others consider it to be formed
from the protoplasm. Gum, mucilage, arid various
substances of that character, are direct transforma-

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

tions from cellulose, as probably are the jelly-like
substances in fruits. Chemists must, however, ad-
vance this portion of their science materially before
it can be made available for practical purposes.

The Leaf as an Organ of Digestion.—The
starch alluded to in the last paragraph is insoluble.
It is requisite for it to be removed from the factory,
where it would be in the way and where it would
prevent the continued formation of fresh supplies,
and that it be stored up in the warehouse for future
use if not wanted immediately. To effect this it must,
be dissolved, taken out of the leaf along the leaf-stalk
(where present), and thus conducted to the place
of consumption or to the bark, the seed, the tuber,
or other reserve organ, as explained in the earlier
chapters. This solution of the starch is effected by
a nitrogenous substance formed in the protoplasm,
and called “ diastase.” Why the diastase dissolves
starch it is impossible to say; but, under certain
conditions, of which the presence of an acid is one,
it does so, converts the starch into dextrose, and
afterwards into glucose or Grape-sugar. Thus, in
the germination of seeds, the starch in the white
perisperm is dissolved by the diastase in the embryo,
converted into sugar, and in this form is absorbed
by the embryo, and used up in the formation of the
growing tissues. The same thing happens when a
bud commences to grow, or a Potato to sprout. ' The
solution of the starch in bread is effected by
similar ferment in the saliva. ‘

This process of digestion is apparently universal
in plants, but subject to various modifications, one
of the most striking of which is that afforded by:
the Dionea, the Drosera, and other so-called car-
nivorous plants. In these plants, when an insect or
any substance containing nitrogen comes into con-
tact with the leaf, an acid fluid is poured out by the
leaf, which effects the solution of the insect just as
the gastric juice dissolves matters in the stomach,
and puts them into a fit condition to be absorbed.
In addition to diastase there are other ferments
formed in the cells, which effect the conversion of
starch to sugar, and the production of alcohol from
the latter, as in the yeast fungus. The reason why
some fungi effect this or corresponding changes,
while others do not, is that the formor—e.g., Peni-
cillium—contain a ferment, while the latter—e..,
Mucor—do not (Van Tieghem). “ Pepsin,” found in
the leaves of so-called carnivorous plants, effects the
decomposition of albuminoid matters, and converte
them into peptones, Its presence in the juice of the
Papaw-tree or Fig explains the fact that meat
wrapped in the leaves of these plants becomes tender.

Fatty matters, which are often stored up in place
of starch, are acted upon in a similar manner by 4

GLASS STRUCTURES

ferment, which converts them into a soapy fluid,
capable of absorption.

“ Asparagin,” and certain nitrogenous substances
of like character, seem to have the property of com-
bining with ternary compounds, and of thus creating
new protoplasm. When the ternary compounds are
deficient, the asparagin collects in the cells; but
when the compounds in question reappear, then the
asparagin combines with them to constitute new
albuminoid or protoplasmic matters. But this,
again, is a matter demanding further elucidation by
the chemist.

The Descending Sap.—tThe substances con-
cocted in the leaf in the manner briefly alluded to
have to pass from the leaf to the place of storage, to
the spot where they are required for immediate use,
or from the store-place to the growing points after
an interval of greater or less duration. In any
case these fluids constitute what used to be called
the “descending sap,” an expression it would be
better to abolish, because it is likely to mislead into
the belief that it is a fluid of uniform constitution,
travelling in a definite direction. In fact it flows in
any direction where there may be a stimulus or a
call for it, and where the structure of the plant
permits its passage. It must not be supposed that it
does not sometimes descend, but it is not limited in
the direction it takes; thus, while it goes down from
the leaves to the haulm of the Potato to aid in the
formation of the tubers, it must needs go up again
to form the new haulm which springs from the
tubers. So in the Wheat plant the “elaborated
sap”? must needs go up from the leaves into the ear.
Again, in the pendulous branches of a Weeping Ash,
for instance, the so-called “descending sap ” must
necessarily rise from the leaves. But while the
direction of the current is thus variable according
to circumstances, and often different in different
parts of the same plant at the same time, there is

.a greater degree of fixity as to the particular places
and tissues in which it may be found; thus, in an
ordinary tree, while the ascending current of water
flows, or is forced upwards, chiefly through the wood-
cells of the young wood, the so-called elaborated sap
is chiefly to be met with in the innermost layers of
bark, and in certain special tissues such as the sieve-
tubes, the latex-canals, &c. In most trees the princi-
pal growth in diameter is brought about by increased
cell-formation on the outer side of the wood and on
the inner side of the bark respectively. The posi-
tion of the “cambium,” ‘‘ descending sap,” “or-
ganisable matter,” or whatever it be called, is thus
seen to be most appropriate. When a bud is inserted
as in the operation of “ budding,” it is placed in
the midst of this store of food and building material.

him, without legal let or hindrance.

AND APPLIANCES. 221

GLASS STRUCTURES AND
APPLIANCKHS.

PITS.
HESE may be described as fixed glass frames
placed on brick or other walls. The idea of
being sunk inte the earth is also associated with that
of pits. But, in fact, there are surface as well ag

sunken pits, and any permanent wall spanned with a

glass top is technically and correctly a pit. It is
the fixity of the walls, in fact, rather than that of
the roof, that forms the pit; for hundreds of pits
are covered with movable sashes, exactly the same
as those on frames. Generally, pits may be said to
be fixtures, while frames are portable.

The chief feature of frames is their portability.
Pits, from the nature of their material and character
of construction, are more of fixtures. Built in the
ordinary way, of brick, stone, cement, or concrete,
they are landlord’s fixtures; that is, no matter who
built or paid for them, so soon as up they become
the property of the landlord; and this even though
built of wood, if fixed in position by stakes driven
into the ground. All pits, however, may be con-
verted into tenant’s fixtures by the simple device of
building them upon, rather than into, the earth. In
these days of the rapid increase of horticultural
glass-houses and other appliances, and frequent
changes of residence, it is important to bear the dis-
tinctions between common and tenant’s fixtures in
mind. The latter can hardly be said to be fixtures
at all. Were the tenant to remove every three
months, he could take such pits or glass-houses with
To constitute
any building a tenant’s fixture, a plank or baulk of
timber or a bar of iron must interpose between it
and the earth. To be built on the surface merely,
without being sunk in the ground, is not sufficient.
A horizontal barrier of some kind must interpose.
This cuts through the legal right of landlords to
appropriate as their own the property of tenants
placed by the latter on their land.

Such unpleasant contingencies may, of course, be
averted by previous agreement, the landlord agree-
ing to take tenant-built structures and appliances at
a fair valuation. But agreements are not always
practicable nor satisfactory, and in this respect they
are less needed than formerly, for most builders now
so thoroughly understand the law of tenant’s fixtures,
and have so moulded their pits, green-houses, con-
servatories, summer-houses, &c., that they continue
from first to last the property of the tenant. Nor is
this all, for not a few of them are so constructed

-that they may readily be taken to pieces and recon-

structed with a minimum amount of labour, risk,
and cost.

222 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

The name of pit suggests the idea of a structure
or place partially under-ground. This was so gene-
rally recognised in the older pits that the major
portion of them were under-ground. Sunken pits
are warmer than those partially or wholly above-
ground, The earth is partially frost-proof in our
climate, at least a very little straw litter around the
pit makes it so to all intents and purposes. The soil
even becomes a source of warmth to the pit, as its
average temperature is about 45°.

Sunken pits were also less exposed to wind and
weather, and the surface of the glass far more easily
covered in severe weather, than those wholly or in
part above-ground. With the solid earth as a but-
tress all round, less material is needed for their con-
struction than for above-ground pits. Against these

substantial advantages of cheapness of first cost, the .

utilisation of the natural and, compared with the air,
uniform warmth of the earth, and greater facility of
managing and working sunken pits, there are the
dangers and difficulties of dampness—the deeper the
pits the damper; and though thorough drainage of
the base, careful and peculiar construction of the
side walls, skilful ventilation, and artificial heating
do much to vanquish or diminish the evils of damp,
no doubt the prevailing and destructive tendency of
the latter in deep pits did much to raise them nearer,
and in not a few instances place them upon or even
above the ground surface. Nor is this to be won-
dered at, as for one plant killed by cold in pits, a
hundred—it may be a thousand—have been crippled,
disfigured, or destroyed by damp.

Hence, though deeply-sunk pits are still to be
found, and in not a few cases, and in exposed locali-
ties, these prove the best of all pits, yet so general
has the raising of pits nearer to the surface become,
and so common are those on the surface, that the idea
of a sunken place is no longer essentially identified
with pits. Any structure with stable sides and a
movable glass roof may be called a pit. Even this
description may be held to be imperfect, for not a few
pits have fixed roofs, Generally, however, pits are
covered with glass lights; the latter are movable,
and access is had to the plants through the roof
rather than through the ends or sides. Pits with
fixed lights and doors in the ends are transformed
into houses, whatever they may be called.

Wooden pits, again, differ from frames in being
fixed by stakes driven into the ground. Neither
sides nor ends can be lifted off without the nails or
screws that fix them to the ground being first with-
drawn.

Wooden pits, however, once so common, arc now
out of fashion. Formed of two layers, and the in-
terstices of six inches or a foot between the boards
filled in with sawdust, tan, chaff, or other non-con-

ducting material, they were at once dry and weather-
proof. Such pits were even used in France for Pinc-
growing.

The walls of pits are mostly built now of stone,
concrete, turf, bricks; even iron has been tried for
both pits and frames. The three first are not liked,
and iron is very seldom used. Turf is efficient
against all weather severities in our climate, but it
is too perishable for permanent pits, though most
useful for temporary ones for the protection of
semi-hardy plants, vegetables, salads, &c., in winter.
Turves of fibrous grass or peat, from two to three
inches thick, and from fifteen to eighteen inches
wide, will form a temporary frost-proof—as far as
the walls are concerned—pit that will prove most
useful for an infinite variety of purposes in most
gardens. It may either be covered with glass lights,
laid on rafters let into the upper or finishing rows
of the turf, or with opaque frames of canvas, oiled
calico, or reeds. Such rough-and-ready structures
are invaluable for the temporary protection of
flower-garden—or what are technically known as
bedding—plants in the spring and early summer
months.

But bricks are at once the most popular, useful,
and efficient of all materials for building pits. A
brick wall, fourteen inches thick, in a vertical posi-
tion is practically frost-proof in our climate. For
pits of smaller size, brick walls four and a half or
nine inches in thickness will suffice. In the case of
very large pits, such as are often used for Pine-cul-
ture, from seven to nine feet high at back, and from
five to seven feet high in front, with covering lights
eight or twelve feet long, eighteen or twenty-two-
inch walls will not prove excessive for the weight
and wear-and-tear to which they will be subjected.
The strain is far heavier and more constant on the
walls of pits than on those of houses, owing to the
constant motion and friction of the movable lights.
Hence the necessity of specially thick and strong
walls for large pits, though the tendency of the day
is to limit and even reduce the size of pits, and con-
vert the larger ones already in existence into houses
with fixed roofs,

The walls of pits are also frequently left hollow.
The practice not only economises material, but pro-
bably strengthens the walls at the same time, while
it is certain that the enclosed air is a less powerful
conductor of caloric than solid bricks. Hence the
common saying that hollow walls are warmer than
solid walls is strictly true, though not expressed

‘with scientific accuracy.

For all common-sized pits, nine and fourteen-inch
brick walls are sufficiently thick and strong. Four-
and-a-half-inch walls should never be used, for un-
less fortified by a free use of fourteen-inch pillars at

e

GLASS STRUCTURES AND APPLIANCES.

frequent intervals, they are not sufficiently strong to
bear the wear-and-tear of pit-management; and be-
sides, four-inch cannot be trusted to exclude twenty
or thirty degrees of frost. The lower portions of the
walls of pits are also very generally pigeon-holed,
that is, a certain number of the headers are left out,
and thus any quantity of four-inch openings are left
right through the walls. Other pits rest on pillars,
fourteen inches or more square, and from two to four
feet high; or wood or iron pillars are placed at in-
tervals of four feet or so along the front and back
walls, and York or other slab-stones, or slates, are
carried along from one to the other. These may be
afoot or more wide, and the upper wall of the pit is

|

Fig. 15.—Pit Burtt on PItuars,

Showing wooden battens covered with brushwood, over hot-
air chamber. a, chamber; b, battening ; c, brushwood ;
d, space for soil; e, space for Melon or other plants.

built along the centre of the slab, leaving a projec-
tion on either side for the reception of a temporary
bottom to the pit, and a covering for the lining or
space all around it.

Instead of the pillars and stones, some turn
arches of brick along the front and back walls,
which save material and afford equally free access
as the pillars to the chamber underneath the pit.
These methods of building have other merits,
besides the economising of material. They divide
the upper and lower portions of the pit into separate
parts; afford facilities for reaching the base at any
season without disturbing the upper portion; and
keep the growing plants all the year round within
almost the same distance of the glass, the last being
a matter of the highest cultural importance.

With the object of treating each subject as much
as possible on its merits and by itself, it is thought

best to add as little as possible here about the heat-
ing or warming of pits. Every one, however, knows
that there are cold pits, dung-pits, Pine-pits, &c.

223

These may or may not differ greatly in size, form,
or structure. They must differ in temperature, and
with the object of enabling them so to differ with
greater facility and despatch, certain structural pecu-
liarities are introduced. For example, the oldest
plan of heating pits—some practitioners would still
call it the best—viz., by the use of fermenting ma-
terials, while possessing many elements of danger
and uncertainty, had at least the merit of keeping
them warm for a long time without attention, and of
giving out moisture as well as heat. This, however,

was associated with one very constant and consider-
able drawback. In the further decomposition of the
heating materials they lost bulk as well as caloric.
Now in all pits this was an evil—the deeper the pit
In pits a vard or four feet

the greater the evil.

Fig, 16.—Pir witu Sracss.

Showing how the stages are arranged near the glass for the
storage of plants, or the culture of Kidney Beans, Straw-
berries, &c.

deep the loss of bulk did not matter much; but in
pits double those depths the loss of bulk carried the
plants so far from the glass as to seriously injure
and weaken them. Hence chiefly the origin of pits
with second or false bottoms. These, as already
stated, divided the depth of the pit into two equal or
unequal portions, and kept the plants at a uniform
distance, or nearly so, from the glass through all
their stages. These false bottoms are formed of
slabs of stone or slate, wood, or bars of iron; but the
simplest, best, and most efficient are those formed
of rough wooden battens, with a layer of brush-
-wood on the top of them (Fig. 15). These will last
one or two seasons, according to quality, and afford
thorough drainage to the plunging material, such as
cinder-ashes, in which the pots are plunged, or to
the soil in which Melons, Cucumbers, or other plants
grow. Such a porous bottom is also most favourable
for the passage of heat from the bottom chambers or
lining into the upper portion of the pits. The stout
battens rest on the inner projections of the slabs

224

that cover the distance between the two rows of
pillars at back and front, and thus sufficient solidity
and strength is obtained to uphold the soil and
plants in the upper portion. ;
In pits used for the storage of plants in pots, or
for the culture of Strawberries or Kidney Beans,
stages are often introduced to keep the plants near to
the glass and at an equal distance from it through
all their stages, as shown in Fig. 16. Any heat re-
quired is thus also enabled to circulate freely around
the plants, while the risk of over-heating from fer-
menting material is reduced to a minimum. Stages
are also often introduced into what are termed cold
pits, for the safe wintering of Carnations, Picotees,
Auriculas, or other choice florists’ flowers.

Different Sorts and Sizes of Pits.—Pits, as
already hinted, are mostly divided into cold, tem-
perate, hot, or dung-pits, according to their tempe-
rature or uses. They are also characterised by the
method of culture pursued, and the character and
names of the plants grown in them. Hence, such
names as store, forcing, propagating, Pine, Melon,
Cucumber, and other pits, so distracting to amateurs,
are rather indicative of the different uses to which
the same pit may be put than of any structural pecu-
liarities of the pits themselves. The same pits,
with a few modifications as to less or more of heat,
would probably answer equally well for any or all of
these purposes. The tendency of the present day is
to trust less to structure and more to skill for success
in all departments of horticulture. The store-pit,
however, as we have already seen, is at once the
simplest and the most generally useful. Any kind
of structure that will exclude frost, will suffice to
store many plants in through the winter or spring,
that would probably perish without such protection.
It is mostly, however, built on the surface, with
four or nine-inch brickwork, and covered with glass
lights, that may or may not need covering in very
severe weather, according to the nature of the plants
stored in it.

Such pits are seldom or never empty, summer or
winter. In fact, in not a few gardens they are
more crowded in summer than in winter. Gene-
rally placed in a protected position, with a northern
aspect, they afford shelter as well as shade to many
plants in summer that cannot endure the mid-day
sun’s broad glare. Having flat rather than steep
roofs, the latter has little power over store-pits.
This is of equal importance in winter as in summer.
Most of our glass roofs are so formed as to gather up
and utilise to the utmost every feeble ray of sunlight
in winter. Not so the store-pit. The more light
and the less heat such pits admit the better. The
vlants are stored away in them not to grow, but

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

to rest in statu quo. The one thing to be guarded
against is growth, In order to avoid that, a cool
temperature, a northern or north-eastern aspect,
and a low pitch of roof are provided, The com-
bined influence of these non-exciting conditions
is that the plants remain as they were, and the
triumph of successful storing is to bring the plants
out of store as they went in several weeks or months
previously. ;

As the angle of the roof of pits is of much impor-
tance to their character or uses, it may prove useful
to give some further particulars concerning it here.
It is practically determined by the size of the pit
and the disparity of height between its front and
back walls. To prevent drip, one of the most con-
stant and trying of all nuisances in pit-culture, the
roofs of pitsare often pitched at steeper angles than
they otherwise would be. Fluted sash-bars are also
used in the case of Pine-pits, to receive and carry
the condensed moisture right out at the front or
lowest part of the pit or house. Taking six feet
wide as one of the more useful sizes for store-pits,
and an angle of twelve or fifteen degrees as sufficient
to freely shed the rain off them, to insure these
angles the back wall must exceed the front in height
by fifteen inches and eighteen inches. For every
foot added to the width of the house, an additional
three inches must be added to the back wall over the
front to kezp the roof at the same flat angle. As
the angle increases, and the roof becomes more steep,
the disparity of height between the front and back
walls rapidly mounts up, so that at an angle of
twenty-six and a half degrees the difference in
height of the back wall over the front in a pit six
feet wide would be three feet. Thedatter would
prove injurious for a mere store-pit, but would be
barely sufficient for a forcing-pit.

Forcing-pits.—These, as their name implies,
are, in their more vital properties and uses, com-
plete counterparts of store-pits. In the latter, the
plants find safety and security in standing still; in
the former, the faster they may be made to move
the better. For many plants the safest, as well as
most potent moving force, is light. This has not
‘seldom been lost sight of, and without doubt many
bulbs and other plants, such as Valley Lilies, and
some shrubs, such as Lilacs, may be forced into
bloom by heat only or chiefly. But in all such
cases the mere bloom, and not the strength and
future welfare of the plant, is what is chiefly desired.
Where, however, both must be insured, as in the
forcing of fruits, Roses, Azaleas, Rhododendrons,

and other valuable plants, then light becomes of-

equal or more importance than heat; and it is a
well-known fact, abundantly proved by tho widest

\

\

GLASS STRUCTURES AND APPLIANCES.

experience, that the steeper the angle of the roof the
more light passes through it. Hence angles ranging
from thirty to forty-five degrees are mostly chosen
for early: Vineries, Peach-houses, and other forcing-
houses. As pits frequently require additional cover-
ing over the glass, and these become very difficult to
apply or keep on very steep roofs, forcing-pits with
a slope ranging from twenty-five to thirty-five de-
grees are often used, and are found to answer well.

Angle and aspect are of small moment in the
forcing of bulbs and such plants as those already in-
dicated. Heat and moisture develop the flowers of
such even in the dark, and any excess of light seems
to lower rather than foster such growths. But the
case is widely different
with what may be called
the forcing of superior
plants, and hence good
preparation must be made
for the application of arti-
ficial heat when needed,
and for the full utilisation
of the light and warmth
of the sun, by the use of
clear glass at a sharp
angle, and the placing of
it full south. More light,
and also a larger amount
of sun-heat, may often be
secured in forcing-pits by
altering their form from
that of lean-to, to hip,
quarter, or full-span pits.
Lean-to pits are with-
out doubt the warmest. The back wall proves a
good absorber and a fine retainer of heat, and being
placed where it cannot escape being heated, it re-
turns its heat freely into the atmosphere when it
is most needed. The hip-span pit has a small por-
tion of the roof formed into a span at the top.
The quarter-spani' has a quarter as much roof at
back as at front, whereas in the regular span the
two sides are alike. Any of these forms admit more
light to the pit than the common lean-to pit, which
is perhaps, on the whole, the warmest and the best
for forcing.

N

NS

LMM MUA

y

—\

The Propagating-pit.—This may, as a rule,
be lower and havea flatter roof than the forcing-
pit. Free light is wanted, undoubtedly, but almost
the less sun-heat the better. Among the first con-
ditions of successful propagation (as will be more
fully shown in special articles) is that the heat
shall be regular and under complete control; for
few things are more disastrous to the safe and
speedy rooting of cuttings than heat by fits and

3g

Fig. 17.—SPan-ROOFED PROPAGATING-PIT.
u, Central path ; b, plunging-bed, over c, hot-air chamber.

226

starts. Valuable beyond everything as solar heat is
to horticulture, it is somewhat erratic and wilful in
our climate. Now it bursts forth with a fierceness
sufficient to wither up all parts of plants into a
crippled condition, such as are cuttings at the best;
and, again, it is withdrawn for hours, days, weeks,
it may be months. Hence the roof of the propa-
gating-pit had better be so flat as to be little in-
fluenced by the sunshine. A northern or eastern
aspect is also quite as good or better for it than a
southern one. The light of the sun should be wel-
comed ; its heat cannot be trusted to root difficult
cuttings with safety. Such a pit as that shown in
Fig. 17 is admirably adapted for propagation.
Pine-pits, on the con-
trary, should be so con-
structed as to receive all
the sunlight possible te
our climate in winter.
This plant of the light,
heat, and moisture-loving
tropics can ill endure the
fog and darkness of our
wintry skies. Hence the
best glass, a considerable
pitch, and a _ southern
aspect should be chosen
for Pine-pits. The Pine-
plant also grows tall,
some of them, such as
the Providence, running
up to four or five feet, and
good Queens to a yard or
more. Hence Pine-pits
should be deep and roomy. Some of the older ones
were nine or ten feet wide, and seven feet to ten in
depth. Those were the days when hot dung, tan, and
leaves in bulk were trusted to as the great sources of
bottom and top heat. Considerable masses of these
were needed to maintain temperatures of 55° to 75°
in pits, with the external air at zero. Pine-pits are
less relied upon and important than they were.
Some now fruit their Pine-plants in pits, and pits
and houses alike are now generally warmed by
hot water. Still, there are yet good Pine-growers
who do grow a considerable proportion of their
succession plants in pits and in fermenting ma-
terials. Hence one or more Pine-pits exist in most
gardens where Pines are grown, and some of the
finest Pine-apples that have yet been produced in
this country have been grown in common dung-pits.
Roots and top alike enjoy the genial warmth and
the nourishing forces evolved from decomposing
materials such as horse-dung, Oak-leaves, spent tan.
These prove food as well as heat to them. They
may be said to be medicine as well, for it is seldom

226°

that either mealy bug or scale thrives on Pinos on a
dung-bed.

Melon and Cucumber Pits.—These have
been made of every possible form and size. Con-
structors at one time almost ran wild over Melon-
pits. Machinery was even erected to lift up the
growing beds by block and tackle, as the materials
of which they were composed lost bulk through their
decomposition. No amount of mechanical ingenuity
was spared to arrest the sinking away of the plants
from the light. Most of the old pits were far too
deep to start with. As a crop of Melons may easily
be finished within four or five months from the time
of sowing, and as, moreover, they can only be grown
to any good purpose in the early spring, summer, and
autumnal months, it follows that Melon-pits need

Fig. 18.—Mxton or Pine Pit,
Heated by dung linings. a,b, pit; c,c, linings,

not be nearly so deep as those for the culture of
Pines. A depth of from four to five feet is ample
for Melons where decomposing materials are wholly
depended upon for the supply of artificial heat. In
cases where hot water is used, less depth is needed.
But for the culture of Melons, as well as Cucumbers
—and the pits for the one will answer equally as
well for the other—the mixed plan of heating—that
is, hot water and hot dung or leaves—is the best.

Though the question of heating pits, and also
other structures, is reserved for separate ‘treatment,
it is almost impossible to make our description of
Melon and Cucumber pits intelligible without re-
ference to linings, which provide the means of warm-
ing such structures. Melon and Cucumber pits are
mostly built of nine-inch brickwork, solid or pigeon-
holed, or fourteen-inch hollow walls. It is essential
that the walls should be strong, and that the pits
should be so constructed as to enable heat to be
thrown in from the outside to the inside of the pit
with ease and despatch.

Linings are constructed for this express purpose.
These consist of spaces, two, two and a half, or even
three foet wide, running all round the pit at times
~—always along the front and back where not all

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

round. They reach to the base of the pit and up to
the ground-level, often beyond it. The linings are
also not seldom six inches or even a foot narrower
at bottom. The off-side of the lining is ‘finished
with four-and-half or ning-inch brickwork, accord-
ing as the soil is difficult or easy to: keep out of the
lining. Our illustrations of Melon-pits with linings
will assist in the understanding of the text. It
is obvious at a glance that this blank space may
readily be filled in with litter or with hot manure,
and in either case it would afford a lining to its
outer walls so far as it surrounded them, cold-
proof in the one case, and an active source of heat
where manure, leaves, or dung were used. The
parts of the pit thus surrounded could hardly at
any time of the year fall below 465° or 50°. But
by the use of hot manure a temperature from 60° to
100° might be got up and sustained around the pit.
This being so—and no one conversant with the

Fig. 19.—Fuat-Roorep Pit, Linep.
Showing hollow walls, and linings wider at top than bottom

heating power of manure in a state of decomposition
will question the fact—the next structural point of
importance in regard to our Cucumber and Melon
pits is how to get this external heat inside the pits,
and a second question of almost equal moment is
how to regulate its amount so as to turn it to the
highest practical account. Heat can be forced
through a brick wall, but considerable waste is in-
volved in the process. Hence the origin of what are
called pigeon-holed walls, double walls, arched, pil-
lared, and other pits. Nearly all these aimed, more
or less successfully, at the solution of the compound
problem already stated, viz., the warming of Melon
and other pits by decomposing materials, and the
forcing of the heat into regularity and semi-per-
manency.

The dung linings were, in fact, almost the only
heating furnaces known to our fathers. Their
covering shutters were the furnace-doors by which
they checked waste, and by cutting off the draught
regulated the production. The stable-yard, or heap
of Oak-leaves or tan, was their never-failing coal-
heap; the vapour and heat of these materials, and
peculiar structure of their pits, their hot-water pipes,
tanks, &c. They had only these, and their achieve-

THE THICK-LEAVED CLEISOSTOME (CLEISOSTOMA
CRASSIFOLIUM).

A very pretty hot-house Epiphyte, from the East
Indies, belonging to the natural order of Orchids. It
is remarkable for its thick tough aloe-like leaves and - ’
panicles of dense sea-green flowers, singularly en-
livened by a rose or violet lip. The inflorescence,
too—although, as is customary among Cleisostomes,
consisting of small flowers collected into dense spikes
at the ends of the branches—has a peculiar curved or
drooping appearance, by which the species may be
known irrespective of its foliage.

(WLOLTOAISSVUO VNOLSOSIATO }.

eo TWOLSOSIETO CHAVET-MOIH], FHI

GLASS STRUCTURES AND APPLIANCES. 227

ments in the frame-culture of flowers, fruit, and vege-
tables have never been surpassed ; and those modes
of heating are even yet, in these days of hot water,
steam, and telephones, still within reach of every
amateur in the land. A load or two of manure, tree-
leaves, spent tan, cocoa-fibre refuse, and the sense to
use them aright, are all that are needed to grow
Melons and Cucumbers to the highest perfection ;
and when these have done their good work, the
residuum, enriched with house-slops, forms the best
manure for the kitchen and flower garden.

How many even keep a horse and trap in their
business, who cannot afford to purchase either boiler
or pipes to heat pits, or houses to grow Melons or
Cucumbers! Nor need they. With a glass pit,
six or seven feet wide, built on pillars, and from
four to twelve feet in length—that is, a one, two, or
three-light pit—the manure from horse or pony
would suffice to keep it warm enough for the pur-
pose. Let it be thrown into the lining as taken
from the stable-doors, and occasionally the whole
mass should be turned over, allowing the steam to
rise against the false bottom in the pit. If any
excess of heat should arise, the shutters could be left
off till it evaporates ; if not sufficient, a little more
or better manure must be thrown in. But, on a
small scale, the frequent supply will sustain the
temperature sufficiently high for the wants of the
plants. On a larger scale, heaps of manure are kept
in a prepared state for the renewal of linings ; the
whole system of preparation and compounding of
materials being elaborated into something like a
caloric science, so that heat may be given to or with-
held from pits warmed with decomposing matters,
with almost as much despatch and precision as the
turning off or on of a hot-water tap.

The Shading of Pits.—Of all sorts of fixed
shading, such as that of “sun-cloud’’ showered on
with the syringe, whiting or paint brushed or stippled
over the glass, or permanent lath or wooden shading,
so often seen in France, it may be said they do more
harm than good. Still at times, and during such
tropical weather as we have in some summers, with
few or no clouds for months, and.the sun reaching
90° or more in the shade for nearly weeks together,
more or less shade is often of the highest value to
plants in pits. The northern aspect affords sufficient
shade for store-pits; but Pine-apples, Melons, and
Cucumbers cannot be grown in a northern aspect in
our climate. The leaves of the former, though they
seem so hardy, almost horn-like, are easily scorched,
and when once scorched they are ruined alike func-
tionally and in appearance. Cucumbers, again, are
better for shading in bright weather, and unless such
sun-loving plants as Melons are occasionally slightl7

shaded towards tho finish, they arc apt to lose their
foliage prematurely, a contretemps which is quite
fatal to their perfect finish and full flavour. Port-
able shading of thin canvas, tiffany, or hexagon or
other netting is the best.

The Covering of Pits.—This is generally
needful in very severo weather. It is of little uso
guarding the front and back and side walls securely
if the frost is allowed free course through tho
weakest parts of pits, the glass lights. A very thin
covering suffices to check the loss of heat by radia-
tion. During severe weather a thicker covering
will be needed to hinder tho pits from being emptied
of their caloric through conduction. Mats aro still
the most popular of all coverings for pits. They
are, however, about the worst. Double mats, with a
layer of hay, straw, or other litter between, are ten
times as efficient. But reed or straw frames, a little
larger than the lights, so as to cover the entire sur-
face, rafters and all, are the most efficient. Rolling
straw or reed mats, made specially for the purpose in
long lengths, are almost as efficient. These, however,
as well as mats, need heavy rails at the top and
bottom of frames to keep them on in windy weather.

The Giving of Air to Pits.—Without enter-
ing into the vitally important question of ventila-
tion, which shall have separate treatment, it may be
stated here that the worst mode of ventilating pits
is that of pushing every alternate light down a few
inches and dragging the next one up almost to the
same extent. This creates and sustains a through
draught, the worst possible for the growth and
health of plants in pits and frames. The almost
equally common practice of pushing down every,
light, or every other one, six inches or a foot, as the
case may be, is almost equally bad, as this enables
the cold air to tumble down headlong on to the
crowns of the plants. The safest, simplest mode is
to tilt every light, or every other light, up one or
more inches with a thin wedge-shaped picce of deal ;
and in order that these may be always at hand
when wanted, they should be tied or chained on to
the wall-plate at the back of each light, with fas-
teners sufficiently long to enable them to be used
without: being detached. This may seem a small
matter, and so it is, but it is on a series of such
trifles that success or failure in the culture of plants
in pits—and, indeed, in all other places out of doors
or in—turns.

Finally, in this matter of giving air to plants in
pits, remove all air from tender plants, such as
Pincs, Cucumbers, Melons, early—say by 4 p.m.—
and, pcr contra, leave the lights of store-pits wedged
up all night, unless during the coldest weather..

228

The simple method described of giving air will enable
this to be done without admitting the rain, a point
of vital importance to success.

Of course, in what are called really cold pits the
lights may be wholly removed, unless in cold or wet
weather.

Special Culture of Plants in Pits.—As
they are placed or grown in these either for con-
venience, or because these are the best places for
them, it may be added that the culture recommended
for each family in this work will suit them in pits
as well as in houses or out of doors. ‘The chief
points to guard against in pits are excess of mois-
ture, either in the soil or atmosphere, and sudden
and severe changes of temperature. The smaller the
area enclosed with glass, the greater the danger of
sudden alterations or extremes of either heat or cold.
However, not a few of the greatest victories won by
sultivators have been achieved through the aid of
pits and frames ; and notwithstanding the run upon
hot-houses and green-houses in lieu of these more
simple and primitive structures, pits will ever hold
a permanent place in the past history and future
triumphs of horticulture.

ORCHIDS.

By Witi1am Hue Gower.

Calanthe.—A genus of terrestrial plants con-
taining some very handsome and showy species; the
name comes from ‘alas, “ beautiful,’ and anthos, “a
flower ”’—hence we have “beautiful flower.” The
icaves are for the most part broad, plaited, and dark
green; the lip is spurred and united to the column
its entire length; the pollen masses are eight, waxy,
-and adhering in fours.

Calanthes may be divided into two sections—viz.,
evergreen and deciduous. The first-named do not
require a resting season—that is to say, although
less water will be given during winter, they must
never be allowed to get dry—whilst the deciduous
kinds must have a long rest after the flowering
season is past.

These plants require to be grown in pots, and the
evergreen kinds should be potted in the ordinary
way, and not elevated above the rim, using for soil
about equal parts of loam, leaf-mould, peat, and
dried cow-manure, adding a little sharp sand; the
pots must be thoroughly drained, and during the
growing season supplied freely with water. The
deciduous section must be treated in the. manner
previously described for potting Orchids, and during
the time of growth will be much benefited by the

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

application of a little liquid manure once or twice a
week; until the pseudo-bulbs are mature we preier
giving the temperature of the East Indian House,
but afterwards they should be removed to a cooler
situation.

Szcrion I.—EvERGREENS.

C. Dominiana.—This is the result of a cross between
C. masuca and C. veratrifolia, and is both handsome
and free-blooming. It is rather singular that Messrs
Rollissons, of Tooting, obtained a plant exactly the
same as did Mr. Dominy at Messrs. Veitch’s, by using
the same parents, and thus we find this variety in
some collections under the name of C. Mylamiana,
but they are identical. The leaves are broad and
plaited, dark green; sepals and petals soft lilac,
with a deep purple lip. Spring and early summer.
Garden hybrid.

C. Masuca.—Of this species there are several forms,
the best being called grandiflora. The leaves are
large and bold, much plaited, and dark green; the
flowers are produced on a tall, erect stem, and are
very numerous; sepals and petals deep violet, whilst
the curious lip is deep violet-purple. It blooms
nearly the whole summer. Northern India.

C. veratrifolia is a bold and strong-growing plant,
with large, plaited, dark green leaves, and an erect
many-flowered raceme, which lasts long in full beauty
if the flowers, which are pure white throughout, are
not shaken together; if this occurs they will speedily
turn black, as the blooms are very delicate and easily
bruised. June, July, and August. Northern India.

Section II.—Decipvovs.

C. porphyrea, rich purple and yellow. Garden
hybrid. ;

C. Regnieri, white, with rosy-pink eye, Cochin
China.

C. vestita.—The pseudo-bulbs ovate-obtuse, and of
a peculiar glaucous hue, bearing two or three broadly-
lanceolate leaves, which are membranous, plaited,
and pale green. The flower-spike issues from the
side of the pseudo-bulb near the base ; and the raceme
is somewhat pendulous. This species and its varie-
ties should be shaken quite out of the old soil every
season, and repotted during March and April; and
when the flowering season is over they may be laid
on one side in a cool place to rest. These plants lose
most of their leaves by the time they flower, which
mars their effectiveness to a great extent; to obviate
this, seedling Ferns should be pricked in between
the pseudo-bulbs, which will be a great relief to the
bare stems.

The blooms of these varieties are exceedingly
useful for all purposes from November to March.
The following are the best varieties :—

ORCHIDS.

C. vestita cuprea,—Creamy-white, with bronze eye.

C. vestita gigantea.—Creamy-white, with fiery-red
eye.

C. vestita lutea.— Creamy-white, with lemon-
coloured eye.

C. vestita nivalis.—Pure white throughout.

C. vestita rubra,—Creamy-white, with deep crim-
son eye.

C. vestita Turnerii.—Creamy-white, with pink eye.

C. Veitchii. — This is the result of a cross be-
tween Limatodes rosea and Calanthe vestita, and is a
truly beautiful plant. The pseudo-bulbs are flask-
shaped, with a very long neck, and bear large mem-
branous leaves; the spike attains the height of one to
three feet, bearing a profusion of its lovely rich rose-
coloured flowers. It blooms all through the winter
months. Garden hybrid.

C. Williamsi, white and rosy-pink, lip deep rosy-
crimson, with darker eye. Cochin China.

Catasetum.—aAn extensive family, producing
extremely curious flowers, but on account of the
colours being of a somewhat sombre hue, they are
aot very popular with the present race of Orchid-
growers; some few kinds nevertheless are sufficiently
showy to deserve a place in the most recherché col-
lections.

The plants included in this genus were formerly
divided into three genera—viz., Catasetum, Myanthus,
and Monacanthus ; but as upon several occasions the
three forms have been produced upon one spike, the
two last-named have not been retained; the forms
of the various sections, however, vary rather con-
siderably.

As a genus Catasetwm is distinguished by its thick
fleshy pseudo-bulbs, which bear large membranous
plaited leaves; the flowers are produced in long
racemes, which are sometimes erect, but more fre-
quently drooping; these racemes spring from the
base.of the pseudo-bulbs, which are deciduous.

The flowers of the true Catasetwm are thick and
fleshy in texture, the sepals and petals often become
hooded, whilst the lip is continuous with the column,
and often cucullate; the column is pointed at the
apex, and bears near the middle a pair of cirrhi; in
Monacanthus the column is destitute of these cirrhi ;
in Myanthus the cirrhi are produced at the base of
the column, and the lip is oftentimes flat and lobed.
In each section the pollen masses are thrown forward
with great force to a considerable distance, and being
glutinous they adhere very firmly to any object on
which they alight. Sir R. Schomburgh, who first
discovered the three forms upon one spike, was of
opinion that Myanthus was the male flower, and
Catasetum the female, as the latter only produced
any seeds, and he has been borne out in this sup-

229

position by the observations and experiments of the
late Mr. Darwin.

Catasetums are naturally terrestrial plants, and
should be potted in rough fibrous peat; during the
growing season they enjoy a liberal supply of water,
but require a thorough period of rest.

C. atratum.—Pseudo-bulbs three to five inches
high, leaves somewhat lanceolate, narrowest at base,
membranous and dark green; the scape rises from
the base of the young pseudo-bulbs, and the flowers
open about the time that the growth has attained
maturity ; flowers large and numerous, dark green,
profusely blotched with purplish-brown ; lip beauti-
fully fringed, and spotted with brown at the base,
passing into yellowish- green. May and June.
Brazil.

C. Bungerothi.—This is quite a new discovery, and
the grandest of all the known species; the flowers
are borne upon nodding racemes, and are very large,
pure ivory-white, with an orange-coloured cavity in
the lip. Ecuador.

C. cernuum.—Similar in many respects to C. atra-
tum ; but its flowers are larger and brighter; sepals
and petals bright dark green, profusely spotted with
purple; lip yellowish-green, bearing numerous spots
of red and black; the apex orange. Spring and
early summer. Brazil.

C. jimbriatum.—TIn this species the sepals and
petals are reddish pink, and slightly spotted with
red; lip broadly heart-shaped, creamy-white, and
beautifully fringed at the edge. Summer months.
Brazil.

C. ineurvum.—This is not only one of the largest,
but one of the most extraordinary forms in the genus.
In describing this plant, the late Dr. Lindley says:
“The flowers are dull green, streaked and stained
with purple; the great blossoms resemble nothing
so much as some portentous Arachnid, seizing upon
the shaggy ear of an unhappy animal, and turning
it inside out in the struggle to grasp it, till a pair
of horns with which the*Arachnid seems furnished
could be plunged into the ear, in order to hold it
fast.” June and July. Guatemala.

C. longifolium.—As its name implies, this species
produces very long and linear strap-shaped leaves;
the flowers are handsome, the colour of the sepals
and petals being deep crimson; the lip somewhat
darker, tinged with violet at tip, and profusely
dotted with yellow. Summer months. It is found
growing upon river-banks and low grounds in De-
merara.

Cattleya.—Named in honour of Mr. William
Cattley, the happy possessor of the first species that
flowered in this country, who had a fine collection
of these plants in his garden at Barnet; and it

230 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

is very remarkable that the first species (C. Jabiata)
still ranks as one of the finest and rarest of the
genus, notwithstanding the immense quantities of
this family which have been imported since that
time (1824). As a genus Cattleya is distinguished
by its sepals and petals being fleshy, the former
equal and spreading, the latter often the larger ;
lJabellum three-lobed, sessile, cucullate, covering the
half-round column; pollen masses, four. Cattleyas
all produce pseudo-bulbs; in some instances these
are short and stout, bearing a single leaf, but in
others the pseudo-bulbs are slender and stem-like,
bearing two or more leaves.

The plants comprising this genus are peculiar to
the Western Hemisphere, where they are found occu-
pying the forks and branches of the forest trees,
and also upon the face of rocks, from the Organ
Mountains in Brazil, right up through Central
America, to the heart of Mexico. Having such a
wide range, it is not to be wondered at that we find
such an infinite variation in their colours and times
of blooming. In the earlier days of our knowledge
of the genus we had no Cattleya-bloom after Jabiata
was over in the autumn, until the two-leaved section,
such as intermedia, opened in the spring; but now
there is no interval—Cattleya-blooms may be had
every day in the year.

Cattleyas produce the largest and most gorgeous
flowers of the whole order, and, large as the genus is
naturally, the cultivators at home have considerably
increased it by cross-breeding, and have by this
means given us some of the grandest flowers in the
family.

These plants have always found favour with
Orchidologists on account of their extreme beauty
and the comparative esse with which they are
managed; and, although not essentially cool-house
plants, they nevertheless thrive in a quite enjoyable
atmosphere. ‘There is, however, one exception to
the rule; it is the remarkable C. citrina, which
thrives admirably in the coolest house. It must,
however, be placed on a block of wood and hung
head downwards, for although it grows freely if
allowed to crawl down, nothing will induce it to
grow when placed upright; this plant is a native of
Mexico, where it enjoys the euphonious name of
“ Corticoatezoate coxochitl.”

The majority of Cattleyas thrive best when grown
in pots, although some of the smaller kinds must be
placed upon blocks and suspended from the roof.
The pots to receive them must he well drained, and
the soil should be good peat-fibre, somo chopped
living Sphagnum, and a little sharp sand. The soil
should be elevated above the rim of the pot, and the
plants should sit upon it, in order that the water
may run quickly away from tho eyes. During the

‘in a state of nature.

growing scason Cattleyas enjoy a fair supply of
water to their roots; the soil must not be kept in
a state of saturation, or the roots will be destroyed,
but the atmosphere should be kept well charged
with moisture. We do not approve of syringing for
Cattleyas in pots, because the large leafy sheaths
which envelop the young growths hold the water
and cause the immature growth to decay; but
when these plants are grown upon blocks they may
be syringed, for then the water runs off as it does
In fact, those plants which
are upon blocks may be syringed with advantage,
and, in addition, must be taken down and dipped
in tepid water two or three times a week. After
growth is complete, water must be gradually with-
held, both from their roots and in the atmosphere,
but they must not be subjected to such a drying as
to cause the pseudo-bulbs to shrivel, or the plants in
all probability will be seriously injured. Naturally
these plants do not grow fully exposed to the rays
of the sun, but in some instances, when found upon
the face of a rock, they have full exposure, and in
such places the growth is always short and stunted,
but they produce flowers in abundance, which fully
proves the beneficial results derived from a thorough
rest,

Cattleyas are subject to attacks of white scale,
from which they must be kept free by washing with
a sponge and clean water. Beetles will also eat
their roots unless these pests are kept out of the
houses as we have previously recommended.

C. Aclandie.—A dwarf plant, seldom exceeding
six to eight inches in height; pseudo-bulbs, slen-
der, stem-like, and furrowed ; leaves in pairs, ovate,
thick and leathery in texture, and dark green;
scape terminal, erect, usually two-flowered ; sepals
and petals about equal, broadly-lanceolate, chocolate-
brown, suffused with a purplish tinge, and trans-
versely banded with greenish-yellow; lip large and
spreading, panduriform, lateral; lobes small, leaving
the column exposed; it varies in colour, rich rose to
deep purple, and sometimes pale purple, with deeper-
coloured veins; the disc ornamented with yellow.
Spring and summer months. Brazil.

C. amethystoglossa.—This is « superb plant; it
attains a height of from two to three feet; pseudo-
bulbs stem-like, thickening upwards, furrowed, and
bearing on the summit a pair of spreading leaves,
which are linear-oblong, thick and leathery in tex-
ture, and deep green; scapo stout, erect, springing
from between a sheath in the apex of the pseudo-
bulb; bearing numerous handsome flowers, which
are about five inches in diameter; sepals and petals
white, suffused with rosy-lilac, and very beautifully
spotted with purple; lip broad, of a uniform rich
deep violet-purple or amethyst. It blooms during

ORCHIDS.

the spring months, and lasts several weeks in per-
fection. Brazil.

C. bicolor belongs to the same section as C. Aclandia,
in which the lateral lobes of the lip are too small
to cover the column. The best forms of this species
are very handsome. It does not appear to be
widely distributed in its native country, where it
is found high up on the trunks of the largest forest
trees, The pseudo-bulbs are slender and stem-like,
one to two feet high, bearing upon the apex two
oblong-lanceolate, coriaceous leaves; peduncle termi-
nal, bearing five to ten fragrant flowers, upwards of
four inches in diameter ; sepals and petals greenish-
brown; lip deep rose-purple, with a white fringe
in front. It remains a long time in full beauty.
August and September. Brazil.

C. citrina.—Pseudo-bulbs small, oval, and, together
with its two narrow leaves, very glaucous; flowers
mostly solitary, and of a uniform rich bright yellow,
saving the front of the frilled lip, which is white,
and in some varieties the disc is stained with orange ;
the flowers are very fragrant, and thick and fleshy
in texture, consequently they last long in perfection.
This plant must be grown on a block and hung head
downwards in the coldest house. May and June.
Mexico.

C. Davsonii.It has been suggested that this
plant is a wild hybrid between C. labiata and C.
Mossie, but it more resembles a very fine variety
of C. speciosissimna ; it is undoubtedly one of the
finest of the genus. It is beautifully figured in
““Warner’s Select Orchidaceous Plants,’ with the
following description :—“ The stems are one-leaved,
and bear a spike of several highly-coloured flowers,
which are fully seven inches across; the sepals and
petals are of a delicate rose, the former lance-shaped
and plane, the latter very broad and much undulated ;
the lip is large, spreading in front, the margin much
undulated, and the apex deeply divided; the front
portion of the central lobe is of a rich deep crimson,
which is carried backward towards the base in the
form of streaks; the front part of the lateral lobes
is white, narrowly bordered with rose, and the
centre is yellowish.” Summer months. It is sup-
posed to be a native of Brazil.

C. Devoniensis.— This is the result of a cross
between Lelia. crispa and Cattleya granulosa. It
partakes most of the Cattleya habit, and is a very
handsome variety, specially useful as an autumn
blossom ; pseudo-bulbs slender, stem-like, and thick-
ening upwards, bearing on the apex a pair of thick
and fleshy leaves some six or eight inches long:
peduncle bearing numerous showy flowers five
jnches or more in diameter; sepals white, tinged
with pink; petals undulated, white, suffused with a
bluish tint; lip wedge-shaped, deep purple, lateral

231

lobes tipped with purple.
Garden hybrid.

C. Dominiana.—The name is given in honour of
its raiser, whose great abilities have been well
known in the horticultural world for many years,
and to whose exertions we are indebted for so many
of the grand novelties which have originated in the
nurseries of the Messrs. Veitch of Chelsea. This,
like the preceding, is the result of a cross between a
one-leaved and a two-leaved plant, viz., Cattleya
iabiata and C. amethystina. In habit of growth it
resembles the latter. The flowers are some six
inches in diameter. Sepals and petals thin and
membranous, wavy, the latter much the larger, pale
rose-colour ; lip rosy-purple, margined with white,
stained pale citron in the throat. There are several
varieties of this plant, such as lutea and alba. It
blooms during the autumn months, and lasts a long
time in full beauty. Garden hybrid. |

C. Dowiana.— Only a few years ago Orchid-
growers were set rejoicing by the announcement
that a grand Cattleya, which had been discovered
years ago by the celebrated traveller Warscewicz,
had at last been introduced in a living state. Since
its introduction it is found that a little more warmth
is requisite for it than for the majority of Cattleyas.
In habit and appearance the growth resembles that
of C. labiata, but it can easily be distinguished from
that plant. Pseudo-bulbs slender at the base, much
swollen above in the shape of a club, furrowed, and
about eight inches high, bearing a single oblong-
obtuse leaf, which is broad, thick, and fleshy, about
a foot long, and dark green; peduncle enveloped in
a large spathe, bearing three to six large and gor-
geous flowers, upwards of six inchcs in diameter;
sepals lanceolate, smooth ; petals very much larger,
ovate, waved, and, like the sepals, of a clear bright
nankeen colour; the lip very large and spreading,
beautifully frilled at the edge, rich velvety purple,
shaded with violet and streaked with lines of gold.
It flowers in the late summer and autumn months.
Costa Rica.

C. Dowiana aurea.—In habit resembling the typical
plant, its sepals and petals are soft clear yellow; lip
deep velvety purple shaded with crimson, and veined
with rich yellow. Colombia.

C. Eldorado.—A very charming species, with short
clavate pseudo-bulbs, bearing a single oblong-ligulate
coriaceous leaf some six inches in length; peduncle
issues from a blunt spathe, bearing three to four
flowers nearly six inches across; sepals lanceolate ;
petals double the size of sepals, ovate, and soft rosy-
pink; lip broad in front, rosy-pink outside, rich
amaranth in front, and stained with orange on the
disc. September and October. Rio Negro.

C. Eldorado, var. virginalis.—In habit of growth

September to November.

232

this resembles the type. The flowers are of a
uniform pure white, the throat of the lip being con-
spicuously stained with orange. September and
October. Rio Negro.

C. exoniensis. —This is another of the Dominy
hybrids, and assuredly no more beautiful flower in
its way can be raised. It is the result of a cross
between Cattleya Mossie and Lelia purpurata.
With two such grand parents it was impossible to
have an inferior offspring. The pseudo-bulbs are
clavate, and bear a single oblong-obtuse coriaceous
leaf, the peduncle issues from a rather acute sheath,
and bears four to five
large flowers, fully six
inches or more in dia-
meter; petals more

than double the size of
the sepals, all of soft eo,
rosy-lilac, the former GhAN

emi)
ay

beautifully waved and
frilled ; lip very large
and spreading, cordate,
waved and crisp round
the edge, rich pur-
plish-crimson in front,
then a band of white,
and the throat golden-
yellow, whilst the edge
is narrowly margined

with white. August
and September. Gar-
den hybrid.

C. gigas. —Of this
grand species there
are many forms. The =
pseudo-bulbs are stout
and clavate, bearing a
single oblong - obtuse
leaf, which is very thick in texture, slightly bi-lobed
at the apex, and deep green; the peduncle issues
from a long acute spathe, bearing three to six
flowers some seven inches in diameter ; sepals lance-
olate; petals ovate, more than twice as broad
as the sepals, and soft pale rose-colour; lip
deeply bi-lobed in front, very large and broad,
deep rich purplish-crimson, then a band of white,
the throat golden-yellow, with numerous pur-
plish lines on the disc. April and May. New
Grenada.

C. gigas Sanderiana.—A free-flowering and superb
form, equal to the type in size, with a rich deep
purplish-magenta lip. July and August. Colombia.

C. guttata, var. Leopoldii.—A bold-growing plant
belonging to the two-leaved section, having terete,
furrowed, stem-like, pseudo-bulbs, which attain a
height of one to two feet; the peduncle issues from

TT

CatrLeya Mossi, ae

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

a small acute sheath, and bears usually from six
to twelve flowers, but in fine examples double that
number have been produced ; sepals and petals about
equal, brown, with a greenish tinge, and profusely
spotted with crimson; lip spathulate, reddish-purple,
Summer months. Island of St. Catherine, Brazil.

C. intermedia. — This is a charming old species,
but too often slighted since the larger-flowered kinds
have been introduced, yet still well deserving a
place in the best collections. The pseudo-bulbs are
slender, and attain a height of about one foot, bear-
ing two and sometimes three coriaceous dark green

leaved; peduncle four

to six-flowered; sepals
and petals about equal,
white, or soft delicate
rose ; lip broad, frilled
in front, rich ~ pur-
ple. May and June.

Brazil.

C. labiata.—This is
the species upon which
the genus was estab-
lished, and which still
remains rare in collec-
tions. The pseudo-
bulbs are stout, and
somewhat club-shaped,
furrowed, and bear a

_ solitary, broad-oblong,
coriaceous leaf, which
is deep green above,
and slightly tinged

— , with flesh-colour be-
: = 0 ‘ neath; peduncle stout,

= : bearing from three to

four flowers, which
are oftentimes seven
inches in diameter; sepals linear-lanceolate acute, rich
rosy-lilac ; petals same colour, but double the breadth
of the sepals; lip obovate, emarginate, beautifully
crisp, deep ruby-red or crimson. October and No-
vember. Brazil.

C. labiata, var. pallida—sometimes known by the
name of the “ summer-flowering Jabiata””—is a plant
which resembles the preceding, but both foliage and
flower are lighter in colour, sepals and petals pale
pink; the lip is crimson, with a beautiful, crisp,
white edge. July and August. Brazil.

C. Mardeltii-A fine garden hybrid, raised from
C. wpeciosissima and C. Devoniensis. In growth it
muvh resembles C. superba. Sepals and petals bright
magenta ; lip three-lobed, the side lobes spreading,
soft magenta, pale towards the middle, middle lobe
rich deep magenta in front, broadly atreaked with
yellow in the centre. June and July.

ORCHIDS.

C. maxima.—The pseudo-bulbs of this plant are
somewhat stem-like, slender at the base, but thicken-
ing upwards, furrowed, « foot or more high, and
bearing a thick and fleshy oblong leaf, which is
about eight inches long and pale green; peduncle
five to ten-
flowered ; se-
pals linear
lancolate; pe-
tals obovate,
waved at the
margins, all a
uniform rich
deep rose-
colour; the lip
large, con-
volute, middle
lobe spread-
ing, beauti-
fully crisp at
the edge, the
ground-colour
white, disc
ornamented
with a broad
orange-co-
loured streak,
the remaining
portion being
profusely de-
corated with
forked lines of
dark crimson ;
the frilled
margin is
white, Late
summer and

233

oblong, coriaceous leaf; the peduncle is three to
seven-flowered, each flower measuring six or seven
inches in diameter; sepals and petals broad and
spreading, varying from pure white to pink, rosy-
pink, and deep rose; lip large, the middle lobe
spreading and
beautifully
crisp, varying
from a deep
rich purple to
crimson and
magenta. It
continues in
full beauty a
long time.
Spring and
summer. New
Grenada.

C. Mossie.
—In this we
have a magni-
ficent species ;
but so vari-
able are they
in the mark-
ings of the
labellum that
it is hardly
possible to
obtain two
plants exactly
alike ; but all
the forms are
beautiful.
Pseudo - bulbs
clavate, fur-
rowed, bear-

autumn ing a solitary
months. Co- coriaceous
lumbia. leaf; peduncle

C. Mendellii. three to six-
—During the flowered, each
past years flower mea-
vast numbers suring four to
of Cattleyas six inches in
have been sent Carriera TRIANZz. diameter; se-
heme from pals lanceo-

New Grenada under the names of Triene, Chocensis,
Mendellii, &e. &e.; but we are under the impression
that these are only variations of one species, and
that the typical plant is C. Warscewiczii. These
variations in colour, however, are so great that
from a cultural point of view distinctive names
are requisite. In the variety Mendeilii there are
numerous grand forms; it is a bold-growing plant,
with a stout clavate pseudo-bulb, and broad -

late; petals much broader, somewhat oblong-ovate,
the margins waved ; lip three-lobed, obovate, with a
beautiful crisp margin; the sepals and petals vary
in colour from pure white to blush and to deep rose,
and the lip varies also; the ground-colour is usually
deep rose, the front lobe being rosy-purple, crimson,
or rich violet, stained with orange in the throat.
The differences in colour render many of these very
distinct, and there are at least half a hundred forms

234

distinguished by special names. The flowers are
produced from May to August; they are very fra-
grant and last long in full beauty. La Guayra.

C. Regnellii.—This very elegant plant must be
grown upon a block in the warmest end of the
Brazilian House; it is similar in appearance to
C. Aclandia, but is more robust in growth; it, how-
ever, does not belong to the same section of the
genus as the last-named species, for in the kind
now under consideration the lateral lobes of the
lip form a complete hood over the column. The
pseudo-bulbs are clavate, and some four or five
inches high ; leaves short, usually in pairs, although
sometimes three are produced from the top of the
stem; they are oblong-obtuse, coriaceous, and dark
green; scape erect, three to five-flowered, each
flower some four inches in diameter; sepals and
petals nearly equal, with wavy margins; ground-
colour pale green, tinged with olive, transversely
spotted with dull purple; lip large, three-lobed,
the side lobes white, tinged with purple, deep purple
within ; middle lobe large, flat, obcordate, narrow at
the base, where it is yellow and distinctly marked
with five parallel lines; front portion rich bright
purple, with a white marginal border; middle lobe
finely toothed. It blooms twice in the year—first
about June or July, and again in September or
October. Brazil.

C. Skinnerii is an old inhabitant of our gardens,
and a universal favourite. Mr. Skinmer, in honour
of whom it is named, says that “it inhabits the hot,
damp coasts of Guatemala, and is always found on
high trees, seldom bearing any lichens, so that the
moisture from the heavy rains soon passes off;
neither does it seek shade, but rather likes exposed
places.” This specimen is the Flor de San Sebastian of
the Guatemalese ; it should be grown in the warmest
part of the Brazilian House; the pseudo-bulbs are
clavate, twelve to eighteen inches high, and bear
a pair of pale green coriaceous leaves; the peduncle
bears six to twelve flowers, which are of a uniform
soft rosy-purple, saving the base of the lip, which
is white; quite recently we had a pure white form
introduced, which has been named C. Skinnerii alba ;
it is, however, a rarity at present. March to May.
Guatemala.

C. superba has always been found a difficult plant
to manage. It is found in the southern parts of
Essequibo, growing on the trees which skirt. and
overhang the rivers. It requires to be grown upona
block, and enjoys plenty of heat and moisture; the
East Indian House will suit it well whon growing.
The Indians call it Oponopodoli,—the Duck’s mouth.
C. superba seldom exceeds a foot in height; the stems
are slender at the base, thickening upwards, furrowed,
and bearing a pair of nearly xound, coriaceous, dark

'

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

green leaves ; the peduncle is erect, bearing three to
six flowers, which are thick and fleshy; sepals and
petals deep rose; lip rich magenta, or crimson, ex-
cept the base, where it is yellow, veined with rose
and white. It flowers from the young pseudo-bulbs
when about half mature. Another form has been
found on the banks of the Rio Negro; it is called
superba elegans ; the parts of the flower are longer
and the leaves are more oblong than in the original
form; flowers larger, about the same colour. June
and July. British Guiana.

C. Triane.—Under this name we have an immense
variety of grand forms, all of which are winter
bloomers. The plants in question are bold growers,
something in the way of, yet distinct from, the Men-
dellit group. They have stout clavate pseudo-bulbs,
bearing an erect, broad, dark green leaf ; the peduncle
bears from three to six flowers, which measure five
to six inches in diameter; the sepals and petals
are usually very broad, and vary from pure white
through all shades to deep rose; the lip varies in in-
tensity, the large front lobe being deep rose to deep
velvety-purple, with a more or less large and high-
coloured stain of yellow or orange in the throat.
Winter months. New Grenada.

No species has given rise to a greater number of
attractive varieties than C. Ziane, and some of these
were formerly considered as true species. One of
these, formerly known as C. quadricolor, was at one
time described and figured as a species, with a sug-
gestion that it might bea natural hybrid. Mr. Bate-
man, who in describing it adopted Dr. Lindley’s MS.
name, said: “The pseudo-bulbs are from six inches
to a foot long, perfectly upright, narrower and more
compressed than in any other allied species; leaves
one on each stem, narrow, strap-shaped, acute, usually
about ten inches long; peduncle issuing from a
large spathe, and bearing one or two flowers about
four inches across, but not so much spread open as
is usual in this genus; sepals pure white, oblong-
lanceolate obtuse; petals slightly spathulate, three
times wider than the sepals, and of the purest white ;
lip undivided, cucullate, but not much opened out at
the apex, which is somewhat curled, and of a deep
purple ; below this is a band of white, then streaks
of yellow, the residue being rosy-lilac.’”” The variety
known as delicata, or C. Warscewiczii delicata, has
flowers six inches in diameter, pure white except the
disc of the lip, which is fringed with rose and stained
with yellow. It resembles (. Triane in habit of
growth, and is a most superb plant. Hundreds of
forms of this variety have, however, been introduced,
too numerous to mention more in detail; but with
few if any excéptions, all the varieties come from
New Grenada.

C. velutina.—In its growth this species resembles

ORCHIDS.

C. bicolor, but the flowers are very distinct from any
other ; they are also deliciously fragrant ; sepals and
petals pale orange, tinged with green, and spotted
and streaked with purple; lip ovate, deep velvety-
rose, veined with rich purple; throat yellow. Au-
tumn months. Brazil.

C. Wagnerii.—Although described as a specics,
there can be little doubt that it is a variety of
C. Mossie. It was originally found growing with
that species, which it resembles in every detail
saving colour; the flowers are pure white, with a
stain of deep yellow in the throat. June and July.
La Guayra.

C. Walkeriana.—Sometimes found in collections
under the name of C. bulbosa. It is a charming
species of dwarf habit, and requires to be grown
upon a block; pseudo-bulbs short, stout, and oval,
bearing a solitary coriaceous, oblong, deep green
leaf; peduncle erect, one to two-flowered; flowers
five inches or more in diameter, and deliciously
fragrant; sepals oblong-acute ; petals much broader,
ovate, with wavy margins; all clear bright rose-
colour; lip rosy-purple, stained with yellow towards
the base. It lasts a very long time in full beauty.
The flowering season is May and June, but some-
times it blooms twice in the season. Brazil.

C. Warnerii.—This evidently belongs to the Jabiata
section, to which indeed it is a dangerous rival.
The original form introduced proved it to be one of
the very finest of its race, but more recent importa-
tions have shown that it is subject to great variation.
With something of the Jabiata growth, the peduncle
bears three to five superb flowers, full six inches in
diameter; sepals lanceolate - acute; petals ovate,
very broad and crisp at the edges; all deep rose,
shaded with lilac; lip very large, deeply bi-lobed in
front, where it is intense rich crimson and beauti-
fully fringed ; behind this it is creamy-white, and
the throat is orange. It is named in honour of Mr.
R. Warner, of Bloomfield, Chelmsford—a worthy
monument of his great love for these plants. Sum-
mer months. Brazil.

Chysis.—A small genus of remarkably showy
plants. The name comes from chysis, ‘‘ melting,” and
refers to the pollen masses, which have the appear-
ance of being run together or fused.

Chysis may be known by their stout spindle-
shaped pseudo-bulbs, which are sometimes upwards
of a foot long, and clothed with large leafy bracts ;
the leaves are large, membranous, and plaited, light
green, and deciduous; sepals slightly connate ; petals
conforming to the sepals; lip threc-lobed; column
deeply channelled at the base ; pollen masses, eight—
four stout and four thin. These plants are found as
epiphytes, growing on the forest trees, but though

236

they thrive admirably in cultivation upon blocks,
their great weight renders it necessary to place
them either in baskets or pots; the material should
consist of rough peat fibre and living Sphagnum
Moss, and a few pieces of charcoal. The flower-
spike comes up with the young growth, and the
blooms expand when the shoot is about half-grown ;
during this time they require an abundant sup-
ply of water, but when the pseudo-bulbs are fully
matured they may be kept quite dry, and in a
cooler temperature than when growing. Brazilian
House.

C. bractescens.The stout pseudo-bulbs are enve-
loped in large leafy bracts; the spike is rather
short, bearing three to six flowers; sepals and petals
thick and fleshy, pure waxy-white; the lip white,
stained with yellow at the base. April and May.
Mexico.

C. levis.—A handsome species. The raceme is
many-flowered ; sepals and petals clear pale yellow,
suffused with orange; lip three-lobed, the side lobes
yellow, forming a hood over the column; front lobe
crisp round the edge, orange-yellow, blotched and
streaked with crimson. It blooms during May and
June, and retains its full beauty for several weeks.
Guatemala and Mexico.

C. Limminghii.—This beautiful species inhabits
the branches of the forest trees near the sea-coast.
The pseudo-bulbs are shorter and more ovate than
the previously enumerated kinds; scape five to six-
flowered ; sepals and petals of great substance, nearly
equal ; blush-white suffused with rosy-pink, which
passes into purple towards the tips; lip three-lobed ;
the lateral lobes are too small to cover the column ;
yellow, streaked with crimson; middle lobe flat,
fleshy, pinkish-lilac, streaked and lined with purple.
March to May. Province of Tabasco, Mexico.

Cirrhopetalum.—The name is derived from
cirrhus, “a tendril,” and petalon, “a flower-leaf,” in
allusion to the peculiar ligulate sepals. It is a large
family, and very nearly allied to Bolbophyllum,
from which it is chiefly distinguished by the very
long lateral sepals and umbellate inflorescence. The
formation of the flowers of Cirrhopetalums is very
singular, and this, coupled with their bright colours,
renders them favourites whenever seen. In the
earlier days of Orchids, a lover of these plants thus
records his first impressions of C. chinense. He
says: ‘There is no longer any occasion for specula-
tive minds to occupy themselves with the important
investigation of the cause that may have induced
the Chinese to invent strange figures of men an@
women, with their chins in perpetual motion, for
here is the explanation. We have here a plant from
China, one of whose lobes is so like a tongue and

236

chin; and so unstable, as to be in a state of continual
oscillation. The flowers are arranged in a circle,
and all look outwards, and on whatever side the
umbel is regarded it still presents to the eye the
same row of grinning faces and wagging chins.”
Cirrhopetalums have seldom lived any length of
time after being imported, yet their requirements
are few ; they thrive best upon blocks, with a little
Sphagnum Moss, or in shallow baskets well drained ;
and enjoy plenty of heat, moisture, and light, but
not full exposure to the sun. During the resting
season never allow the plants to suffer from drought,
for we are fully
persuaded that
this has been the
stumbling-block to
the cultivators of
this genus. East
Indian House.

"©. chinense.—
The rhizone is
creeping and root-
ing at every joint;
pseudo-bulbs small,
ovate, bearing a -
single, oblong-ob-
tuse, dark green,
leathery leaf ; scape
stout, erect, as long
or longer than tho
leaves; bearing an

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDINING.

length of the dorsal ; the former directed backwards
with the dorsal sepal, and, like it, prolonged into a
slender cylindrical tail; lip ovate-lanceolate, and,
with the column, deep purple. Summer months,
Java.

Cologyne.—A large genus of epiphytal plants,
exclusively Asiatic; some of the species are natives
of the tropical islands in the Indian Archipelago,
but by far the greater number are to be found in
the sub-tropical regions of Northern India. The
name Coelogyne signifies ‘‘hollow-stigma,” and this

: is really its chief
feature of distinc-
tion; they all pro-
duce pseudo-bulbs,
and many of them
large and showy
flowers, and as these
in many instances
appear in the very
depth of winter and
early spring they
become doubly
valuable.

The majority of
the species should
be grown in pots,
for although all
will grow upon
blocks, they do not

umbel of large make such fine
flowers of a most specimens under
peculiar appear- this latter system.
ance; the lip and CHYSIS BRACTESCENS. Coelogynes enjoy
upper sepal are a moderate amount

purple ; the lateral sepals are very much elongated,
and tawny-yellow. June and July. China.

C. Cumingii.—This is a less robust plant than the
preceding ; pseudo-bulbs small, oblong ; leaves soli-
tary, oblong, thick and leathery, and dark green
above; scape slencer, much longer than the leaves,
bearing an umbel of beautiful reddish-purple flowers,
the peculiar arrangement of which must be seen to
be understood, Spring and early summer. Philip-
pine Islands.

C. Pahudii.. A bold-growing species, with nar-
rowly-oblong pseudo-bulbs, which spring at inter-
vals from a creeping rhizome, and are enveloped in
a large sheath ; the leaves are large, broadly-lanceo-
fate, tapering at the base, and bright green; scape
radical, shorter than the leaves, bearing several
large sheathing scales. Umbel of flowers six to
twelve; these are very large; the dorsal sepal is
about four inches long, reddish-brown, dotted with
deep red; petals and lateral sepals about half the

of heat during the growing season, especially towards
‘autumn, in order to finish up their pseudo-bulbs,
when a cooler temperature is necessary, and when, a8
a matter of course, less water must be given them.
The soil for these plants should be fibrous peat and
living Sphagnum Moss in about equal proportions,
with the addition of a little sharp sand, whilst the
drainage must be kept in thorough working order.

These plants commence to grow immediately after
the flowers are past, and any surfacing or re-potting
necessary should be done at this time, in order that
the new pseudo-bulbs may reap the full benefit of
the change. The mountain species from Northern
India will thrive best in the Brazilian House, but the
kinds from the Indian Islands require a little more
heat, and should therefore be placed in the East
India House,

C. eristata.—This is perhaps the finest and most
admired species in the genus, and no one who
commences the cultivation of this order of plants

ORCHIDS.

should be without it. It is an evergreen, dwarf in
habit, and remarkably free in flowering ; pseudo-bulbs
somewhat oblong, smooth and light, shining green,
bearing on the summit a pair of rather narrow-
spreading, dark green, leathery leaves ; the raceme is
produced from the base of the newly-formed pseudo-

237

CRISTATA.

bulb, drooping, and bearing five to eight flowers
measuring from three to four inches in diameter;
sepals and petals pure snow-white ; lip also white,
but stained in the middle with rich yellow, and
ornamented on the disc with several fringed lines
of golden-yellow. These flowers are admirably

238

adapted for shoulder-sprays or bouquets, and will
jast for a very long time after their removal from
the plant. It blooms from December to February.
It is found in the mountains of Nepaul and Sikkim,
&c., at an elevation of from 5,000 to 6,000 feet.

C. cristata alba,—A rare variety, in which the
flowers are of a uniform pure white without spot or
blemish of any colour. Nepaul.

C. cristata, var. citrina—A variety highly appre-
ciated by many; when flowering it is very distinct,
as the lip is marked with a blotch, of soft lemon-
colour instead of yellow, and as it is invariably later
in opening its flowers, it extends the time for the
enjoyment of these charming blooms.

C. corrugatu—aAs the specific name implies, the
pseudo-bulbs are much wrinkled; they are apple-
green in colour, ovate, bearing on the summit a pair
of oblong, somewhat acuminate leaves, which are
erect and dark green ; the racemes are erect, slightly
shorter than the leaves, and bear from three to
six flowers ; these are pure white, except the disc of
the lip, which is yellow, veined with orange.
Autumn months, lasting long in full beauty. Neil-
gherries.

C. flaccida.—Pseudo-bulbs oblong, two-leaved ; the
racemes pendulous, many-flowered ; sepals and petals
white; lip white, stained with yellow, and streaked
with crimson. The odour of this plant is peculiar,
and not appreciated by some; independent of this,
however, it is a very fine-flowering and showy
species. Winter and spring months. Nepaul, &c.

C. fuscescens.—A remarkably handsome species;
pseudo-bulbs three to four inches high, somewhat
stem-like, bearing a pair of broadly-oblong, plicate
leave$, which are some nine inches long, dark green
above, paler below ; raceme nodding, about the same
length us the leaves, bearing three to six or eight
large flowers; sepals. and petals narrow, white,
tinged with yellowish-brown; lip yellowish, white
mm front, stained with rich brown at the base.
Winter months. Moulmein.

C. Gowerti—An elegant small-growing species
which succeeds best upon a block of wood. Pseudo-
bulbs ovate, shining deep green, bearing a pair of
narrowly-lanceolate Teaves some six inches long;
racemes pendulous; sepals and petals pure snow-
white; lip white, stained on the disc with a pale
lemon-coloured blotch. This rare species blooms
during winter and spring. Assam.

C. Lowiii—A warm-country plant, also known by
the name of (. asperata ; its pseudo-bulbs are some-~
what flat, and, like its leaves, are dull green, and
attain a height of about two feet; racemes pendulous,
about a foot long, many-flowered; flowers nearly
three inches across; sepals and petals creamy-white ;
lip creamy-white, crested in the centre with orange,

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

and streaked with yellow and chocolate. It blooms
during the summer months. Borneo.

C. odoratissina.—This is a smailegrowing and
beautifully fragrant species. It is dwarf in habit,
with small clustered pseudo-bulbs, bearing a pair of
erect narrowly-lanceolate leaves. Racemes slender
and pendulous; flowers pure white; the lip slightly
stained with pale yellow. It blooms during the
spring months. Neilgherry Hills, at considerable
elevations.

C. pandurata,—Pseudo-bulbs large, broadly-ovate,
compressed, shining green; leaves in pairs, broadly-
lanceolate, about eighteen inches long, plaited and
bright green; racemes pendulous, about as long as
the leaves, many-flowered, each flower about three
inches in diameter; sepals and petals flat and
spreading, bright apple-green in colour; lip same
colour with a broad blotch of black in front, and the
raised lines on the disc fringed with black. Green
flowers are not usually attractive, but in this case
they are so conspicuous and attractive that no collec-
tion of Orchids should lack this species. June and
July. Borneo, where it is said to grow on trees in
very shady places, and usually on those overhanging
water.

C. Parishii,—Another green-flowered species; the
pseudo-bulbs are somewhat stem-like; the flowers
resemble the last species, but are smaller. It is de-
sirable on account of its colour and its associations.
The Rey. Mr, Parish has been a most indefatigable
collector and discoverer of new Orchids, and amongst
all the grand species he has sent home, surely some
finer kinds could have been found to commemorate
his keen industry and love of these beautiful plants
than the few which have been dedicated to him.

C. speciosa.—In this plant the colours are strikingly
different from the species previously enumerated ;
pseudo-bulbs oblong, bearing a single broadly-oblong
lanceolate leaf ; flowers in pairs, each flower upwards
of three inches across; sepals and petals olive-green
tinged with brown; lip yellow, veined and fringed
with dark red, and tipped with white in front. Its
usual time of flowering is in summer, but it is aimost
an all-the-year-round flowerer. Java.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

By Wiuuiam Ean ter.

MONTHLY CALENDAR OF WORK TO BE DONE.

LL real success connected with the work of the
garden depends almost in an equal degreo
upon two considerations, i.c., doing things well and
at the proper season. It is for the latter reason
that calendars of work to be done are so valued

THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 239

and sought after. Moreover, amateurs find readier
means to an end by reference to such data contained
under monthly headings in seasonable suggestions,
than by reference to the details, concerning dif-
ferent subjects, spread through the body of even such
a work as this. Though it may occur to many,
therefore, that given dates have only a partial bear-
ing on ultimate success, we would suggest that
they be kept to as nearly as possible. By indif-
ference to this matter valuable crops well grown, &c.,
may be too early, or too late, for standing the in-
clemency of winter, or for ingathering before winter
sets in; or so late in the spring months, that they
will be incapable (in certain instances) of growing to
proper bulk before the dry season sets in, which
causes premature bolting or running to seed, &c.
These suggestions, furthermore, should assist all
amateur growers and others who can only devote
a certain amount of time and forethought to the
subject. It were well to remark, however, that all
such work must be more or less influenced by the
weather ; hence due allowance should always be
made for such diversity as our climate is liable to.
This calendar is written, further, in connection
with the copious explanatory articles on each culi-
nary subject contained in other parts of the work.
The two taken together give, it is hoped, more
practical details and explanations regarding such
matters than any other work on vegetable‘growing
extant.

January.

Commence the year by seeing that all walks and
the drains associated with them are in perfect order.
It is only by attending to the re-gravelling of walks
during the winter season, or turning them as may
be necessary, that freedom of pedestrianism is possible
throughout the year, without which the real plea-
sure of periodical visits is wanting, and the needful
work in connection is made greatly more laborious.
The turning of walks at this season secures to them
the rains of winter and attendant time, which com-
bine to make them smooth-surfaced, hard, firm, and
mudless, during the chief part of the whole year.

All vacant ground should be manured. It is
desirable to choose a frosty period, and when the
ground is hard, sufficiently so, in fact, to bear the
weight of the loaded wheelbarrow, in which to do
this. In all instances when, owing to the exigen-
cies of time, &c., it is desirable to wheel manure on
to the ground at other periods, wooden planks
should be used, not only in view of saving labour,
but also to avoid undue traffic over the soil. So soon
as ground is manured, spread sich manure over the
surface, and trench or dig it in as soon as possible,
taking care to apply at least double the quantity of

manure to ground which is to be trenched in compa-
rison with that which is to be dug only. During
both the operations of trenching and digging turn
the soil over as lightly as possible, letting it lie in
the same lumpy form as turned over. Do not, as is
so commonly practised, chop down all lumpy por-
tions. Nature, with its ameliorating influences—
frosts, air, &c.—will do this best, disintegrating it
thoroughly and well. Half the fertility of soils
comes from these pulverising influences.

Following severe frosty weather, which generally
occurs about Christmas or the New Year, many
parts of green vegetable crops such as Brussels
Sprouts, Broccoli, &c., show signs of injury. Let all
decayed and decaying leaves, &c., be removed during
the first dry- weather period. To permit them to
remain upon the plants is to court further and in-
creased injuries.

During a mild period take up a successional
batch of Lettuces and Endives, and plant in pits or
frames which have been denuded in process of use
of earlier-planted ones. Take care during the pro-
cess of transplanting to take each plant up with a
ball of earth, and to transplant with the same in its
entirety. See that the protection around and upon
such pits or frames is efficient, but give air to each at
the back at all moderately mild periods, and remove
the lights or sashes from over them, should such
weather occur as will permit of the operation.

Where forcing-materials were not placed over
plantations of Rhubarb and Sea-kale last month, it
may be done this. I refer the reader to the calendar
for the month of November for particulars how to
proceed. Those who commenced forcing such a
month or two since, should see that the fermenting
materials are kept at a proper degree of warmth,
&c. This must be secured by turning some portion
of such materials over, or by adding to them, should
any be found, by aid of the test-stick, to have lost
heat. The crop will be found most advanced in
the centre of the heap of fermenting materials, and
when used it wiil be desirable to remove some of
such materials from the centre, and place it upon
the outer sides. Do not, however, quite uncover
the space. With an extended plantation of either
Rhubarb or Sea-kale, the pots from which the pro-
duce has been taken may be removed and placed
upon others; fresh materials being also placed over
them by extending the dimensions of the heap.
Oftentimes the heat within such fermenting ma-
terials may be maintained during severe weather
by placing a covering of straw or other light litter
over it. Snow is a great neutraliser of the heat
within such, and when it falls heavily, save during
such time as severe frosts occur also, it is desirable
to remove it from the surface of the materials, and

240

not permit it to thaw and so destroy the heat within
by an excess of cold water. When no further need
exists for materials to remain over such portions of
plantations as crops have been taken from, in view
of assisting the heat upon other portions, they should
be removed and cleared off. Place a thin layer of
light material over each root afterwards, however,
to neutralise the injurious tendency which subse-
quent severe frosty weather may have upon the
previously heated and now wounded crowns.

Prepare a heap of fermenting materials with
which to make. up an early frame bed, whether for
Cucumber or Melon growing, or for purposes of
propagation, &c. Such materials take some time to
prepare and to sweeten, and unless they are col-
lected during the present month and placed in a
heap, to commence fermentation, the operation will
be behindhand a month or two hence. The process
of “ sweetening’? mixed materials is very simple.
See that the materials consist of stable litter, or
sweepings, and old collected tree-leaves. Throw
them lightly together into a conical heap. When
fermentation is at its highest—steam issuing freely
from the apex of the heap—then commence at one
side and turn the whole of the materials over into
another similar-shaped conical heap. Take care in
doing so to place the materials that were previously
on the outside of the heap in the centre at each
turning, and thoroughly shake all apart. Should
any portion of the centre be very dry, it might be
sprinkled over with clear water. Three such turn-
ings are generally requisite to properly sweeten
materials prepared during the winter months.

Occasionally, even during the month of January,
a fine dry period exists wherein young plantations of
Lettuces, Endive, Spinach, Winter Onions, &c., may
be neatly hoed amongst. Should the opportunity
offer take advantage of it, as much benefit will accrue
to all such crops so treated at such a season. At the
same time hoe between and give such additional
mouldings to Peas and Beans (Broad) as are already
through the ground. In moulding up Peas at this
season take care, without drawing the soil too near to
the base of the plants, to make such a mound or ridge
of soil on either side, and especially the cold or windy
side, as is likely to prove a protection to them.

During fine weather towards the end of the month
all who aim at carly crops may make sowings of
Peas, such as William I., First Crop, Kentish Invicta,
or other quick-podding early kinds, Broad Beans of
the Long-pod variety, or early Mazagan.

Young Cauliflower plants under hand-glasses will
only require protection during very severe frosty
weather. Give air during all mild periods, and when
cold winds and moderate frosts only exist keep the
hand-lights constantly shut down. Where shallow

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

frames exist utilise them by fixing on a warm sunny
border, and sowing Lettuce, Radishes, Carrots, and
Onions, should the latter be valued in the form of
salading. Mustard and Cress, continue to sow in
boxes as necessary. Make also sowings of Dwarf
Beans for forcing, as may be desirable.

Keep up a brisk warmth of about 75° in Cucumber
houses. Make the most of all sunshine to brace up
the plants by a little fresh air and fresh atmospheric
moisture. Give with great care root-waterings when
necessary only, in such manner that the drying in-
fluence of the lower heating pipe be neutralised, yet
that the bed be not caused to be at any time unduly
moist. Remove all decayed flowers, aged leaves,
tendrils, &c., stopping shoots occasionally, so as to

insure fruitfulness, yet so as to permit of a tolerably

free and uninterrupted growth, without which suc-
cessful winter culture is not possible.

February.

The month of February ushers in what should be
the busy season of the vegetable-grower. January
work in the kitchen garden, however commendable
and desirable it may be, is too generally only prac-
tised with thoroughness in large gardens, and where
labour is constant. The amateur is, perforce, content
with later ground-digging, manipulation, and gene-
ral preparation. Letnone, however, who value good
returns for labour given delay beyond the advent
(or as soon after as possible) of the current month.
To dig up ground during the month of March suc-
ceeding, especially if it be ground of naturally light
or poor characteristics, is to risk, during dry spring
weather, having a great want of moisture and sub-
sequent necessary firmness, until after such time as
seed-sowing and young plant-growth should have
taken place; and the result, thin crops, and poor. It
is highly important, therefore, to have all ground-
work performed this month, that the needful seeds
be sown early in the next. In connection with this
it is well to repeat that ground intended for Peas,
Potatoes, Cauliflowers, Beans, Onions, &c., should be
generally deeply and well manured and worked up.

On the other hand, such spaces as are intended for
Carrots, Parsnips, Beet-root, Salsafy, and similar
crops, will be best with the manure deeply dug in, or
placed from six to eight inches deep in layers. This
can be readily done by keeping a good trench open,
and digging deeply, the manure being evenly spread
over the surface of the ground. About the first week
in the month lay all early Kidney Potatoes out singly
on airy shelves; here they will form robust sprouts,
and during the third or fourth week plant them
on to an open sunny aspect. Take care to plant them
with the young sprouts upon them uninjured and
perfect. Prepare the main crops of Potato sets for

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

subsequent planting by laying them out thinly in an
airy place. Early planting with sets in perfect order
alone gives successful crops generally. Old decom-
posed manure should be used for Potatoes, and the
crop does well upon such ground as Celery, Broc-
coli, Spinach, &c., have been previously grown upon.
Plant strong-growing sorts two feet anda half apart.

Where previously-sown crops of Peas, Beans, Car-
rots, Lettuce, &c., are not advancing, sowings of
all should be made during the first fine weather in
the month. On the contrary, where young crops
exist make successional sowings of such as are de-
sirable during convenient weather about the third
week in the month. Procure Pea-sticks, sharpen,
and prepare them before the busy season arrives.

Towards the end of the month plant Garlic,
Shallots, and Seed Onions; divide Chives; mulch
herb-beds ; sow Parsley, Leeks, and Spinach; trans-
plant autumn-sown Lisbon Onions, taking advan-
tage of the first fine day in the month. Choose a rich
piece of ground, and only dibble the roots firmly into
the ground. Watch them subsequently, and should
worms draw any out of the ground, re-plant with ex-
pedition.

Make up autumn-sown and planted Cabbage-beds,
and hoe deeply between them, earthing them up sub-
sequently as necessary. Look over all Broccoli plan-
tations, bend over the leaves of all about to flower, to
maintain their colour, and pull up all which are fit
before they become too old or discoloured. Hoe be-
tween young Cauliflower plants under hand-lights;
make successional sowings of Short Horn Carrots,
Radishes, Lettuce, &c., early in the month, or other-
wise, accordingly as previously-sown crops exist, and
are advancing in growth. Plant Jerusalem Arti-
chokes on any out-of-the-way sunny piece of ground,
also upon a favourable site Sea-kale and Rhubarb,
according to directions given under the respective
headings. Make also new plantations of Horse-
radish.

About the beginning of the month build up the
necessary beds of fermenting materials for the frame-
growth of Cucumbers and Melons, securing young
plants of both as may be necessary (vide the articles
on the “Cucumber”, Frame-beds should also be
made, and planted or sown with Potatoes, Wood's
Early Frame Radish, and French Horn Carrots.

Give manurial waterings to Mushroom-beds in
full bearing, and collect materials for the early forma-
tion of new Mushroom-beds out of doors.

March.

Having the ground prepared as advised, Pea sow-
ing demands immediate attention. So soon in the
month as possible make, simultaneously, at least
three sowings, consisting of as many varieties.

40

241.

These should comprise first and second, early and
main crop varieties. By sowing them thus together.
they will come in excellent succession for subse-
quent use. Again, in three weeks’ time, or so soon
as these are well through the ground, make another
similar sowing. Take advantage of any showery
weather, if possible, to earth up each row so soon
as the young plants are well through the ground.
Stick earlier ones after having drawn additional soil
up to them.

It is important to make sowings of the following
during the first or second week in the month—i.c.,
the main crop of Parsnips, Spanish Onions, Turnips.
This is especially necessary should the weather
prove dry, else in less favoured localities the seeds
sown later during a continuance of dry weather
may not germinate, and the result will be a very
thin or indifferent crop. Sow also moderate
breadths of Intermediate and French Horn Carrots,
Broad Beans, both Long-pod and Broad Windsors.
Of the former the “ Seville’ is a good variety when
obtainable true to name. Radishes, sow upon a
warm site about every tenth day. During the
second week make also sowings of Asparagus where-
ever it is desirable to grow on young plants for
future permanent planting. Give a good mulching
also to the Asparagus-beds early in the month, after
having first hoed them over and freed them from all
seedling weeds, which may even thus early be form-
ing. It should be mulched with well-decomposed
manure only.

Towards the end of the month, forcing having
been completed in connection with Rhubarb and
Sea-kale, remove the fermenting materials, pots, &c..
leaving a slight manurial mulching only, and cut all
portions of the roots of Sea-kale which protrude
above-ground away down to the ground-line. To
neglect this will be to cause very shapeless and
irregular crown-growths for the following season.

Make sowings in pans or boxes, placing them in a
little heat, of Celery, Tomatoes, Capsicums, Chilis,
Egg-plants, &c. Thin out the young plants of
Cauliflowers grown under hand-lights. Transplant
such on to a piece of sunny and rich ground. Well
stir the soil amongst such as remain within the
hand-lights, and give manure waterings should the
weather prove warm anddry. Unless the ground
is cold and too wet, it will be well to plant the main
crop of Potatoes during the latter half of the month
—early varieties to be planted first, and late varieties
last.

Sow the following seeds late in the month in
small beds for future transplaiiting: Savoys, Cab-
bage, Brussels Sprouts, Veitch’s Autumn Giant
Cauliflower, Broccolis, such as Snow’s Winter White,
Walcheren, &c., and Summer-hearting Lettuces.

242

Mould or earth up frame Cucumbers and Melons
as they advance in growth; attend to the linings in
view of maintaining a nice heat. Give root water-
ings as necessary. Sprinkle the plants overhead
and shut the sashes down tightly about 2 p.m. daily.
Again, give a thin wedge of air at the back of the
sashes about 5 p.m. daily. Shut the sashes down
tightly again about 7 a.m. each morning, opening
them again as the sun gives warmth or the day ad-
vances. Transplant autumn-sown winter-grown
Lettuce and Endive, hoeing well amongst these,
Spinach, &c., to increase the growth ofall, Give a
good mulching to all herb-beds, using good decayed
manure. Divide and transplant the rooted layers
attached to Thyme, Sage, &c., dividing also the
stools of Marjoram, Mint, and so on, in all cases
where new or extended beds have to be made.
Give the necessary attention to walks, edges, &c.
Remove the exhausted remains of winter vegetable
crops.

April

Peas are such an important crop, and the main-
tenance of a constant supply in season so desirable,
that it behoves all to make successional sowings to
meet such demands. It will be well, therefore, to
make a goodly sowing during the first week of the
month, and another during the third week. To
dispense with dates, however, and work upon
another and most effectual principle, is to sow suc-
cessional crops immediately the plants from pre-
ceding sowings are well through the ground. At
this sowing the taller varieties may be used, espe-
cially Telephone, which is an excellent variety for
general purposes. Do not sow too thickly. One
pint of seed will be ample for a row twelve to four-
teen feet in length. It is judicious, also, at this
season to sow two or three distinct kinds, which may
comprise those of medium height along with such as
are tall.

Earlier crops will need sticking. Do this by an-
ticipation of the needs of the crop, as such sticks
prove a protection, and at the same time an incen-
tive to growth. Take care, in sticking Peas, not to
place the two rows of sticks too close together, bear-
ing in mind the fact that the plants are intended to
be grown between the two rows of sticks, and that
if the sticks are placed too close together they grow
out at the sides, and are liable during wind-storms
to relax their hold upon them and fall away.

In like manner, the young Pea-crops, so soon as
through the ground, must be earthed up freely and
well.

During the first week of the month, those who
have not sown Onions in sufficient quantities, as ad-
vised last month, should do so. At the same time

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Turnips, Parsley, and successional sowings of Broad
Beans should be made. Between the middle and
third week of the month sow Beet-root, Scorzonera,
Salsafy, the main crop of James's Intermediate
Carrots, and during the last week Scarlet Runner or
White Dutch Beans.

Such suggestions are made subject to fine-weather
periods, as it is always desirable, so far as is possible,
to sow such main crops of seeds during fine weather,
and when the ground is in nice, dry, working order.

Sow also at a similar date seeds of Ridge Cucum-
ber, or Gherkins, and Vegetable Marrow, in pots
for early transplanting into the open ground; also
such tender herbs as Bush and Sweet Basil, Knotted
Marjoram, Summer Savory, &c., in pots to under-
go a similar process ; a bed of Borage being sown in
the open ground, along with such successions of
Radishes, Lettuces, and smaller Salads as may be
necessary. -

Make new plantations of Asparagus, the best
time to do so being when one-year-old plants com-
mence showing signs of growth in their seed-bed.
Seedling Cabbages, Lettuces, and Cauliflowers,
whether autumn or spring-sown, transplant finally
or into nursery beds, according to age and size of
the seedlings. Procure young crowns of Sea-kale
for planting where desirable, or sow seeds moderately
thick in a seed-bed to form plants for next spring
planting.

Carefully fork between plantations of Sea-kale and
Rhubarb, so soon as the young growth shows where
the rows which have been forced are. Do not fork
deeply, so as to injure the roots, but in such man-
ner alone as to free the surface of the soil and
check seedling weed formations. Should the month
prove a dry one the various young seedling plants
will require root-waterings, especially Celery trans-
planted on to a mound of fermenting material,
covered over with rich soil, Having advised plant-
ing Potatoes early or during the preceding month, it
is only necessary to say here that where, owing to
the exigencies of weather, this has not been done, it
will be well to do so as early as possible during the
present.

Give especial attention to the hoeing of all crops.
Such aid is always very beneficial to growth, owing
to the process of soil-stirring over their roots, &c.
Besides which, the season has again arrived when
it is absolutely necessary to do so, to check weed-
growth.

Make up Mushroom-beds with the materials pre-
viously collected, as advised, and sweetened by dry-
ing or fermentation. The only good position for
them at this season is out of doors under the ex-
treme branches of trees, or against dry walls, &c.,
and where, should a rainy season follow, a certain

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

amount of protection from such rainfall exists. It
is a matter of little impqrtance what shape they are,
providing the material is from two to three feet
deep at its central or thickest part. Cover the beds
over, when made, with a sufficient depth of litter or
straw to keep them quite dry during the six weeks
or so in which the spawn is working within them.

Give air very freely during fine warm days to
Cucunibers. With the thermometer at 75° Fahr.
in the sun, and a warm air, it will be well to raise
the sashes high at the back. Keep all the laterals
pinched back at one leaf beyond where fruits show.
Sprinkle the plants over with tepid water about
3 p.m., shutting the sashes down close, but again
giving half an inch of air at the back towards
7pm. Take this air off about 6 o’clock the next
morning for an hour or so; then commence air-
giving for the day, according to its warmth or other-
wise. Attend to the linings of the frames when the
crop is frame-grown. About the end of the month
it may be necessary to renew the linings either back
or front, and in doing so to damp the drier mate-
rials within them, adding a little fresh fermenting
material in process, as a slight bottom heat will be
required for some time yet.

May.

Sow during the first week in the month Dwarf
Kidney Beans, making if possible a small sowing
upon a warm sunny-aspect border and a general one
in the open quarter. Sow also successional crops of
Peas, Broad Beans, Turnips, and all kinds of salad-
ing, also a successional sowing of Walcheren Broc-
coli, Cauliflower, and Coleworts, of which the
Rosette variety is a desirable one.

The month is at once a busy and a highly im-
portant one from a culturist’s point of view. The
hoe should be freely worked amongst all growing
crops, especially those consisting of young seedlings.
This is desirable after nice growing showers of rain.
In connection with this beneficial practice o1 hoe-
ing, or soil-stirring, comes the equally important one
of crop-thinning, or “setting out,” as growers have
been wont to describe it. Thus in process of hoeing
the young seedling crops of Onions, Turnips, Pars-
nips, Carrots, &c., may be rapidly thinned by the
intelligent use of this handy tool. It is important
to complete this thinning out process as soon as
possible after the young seedlings are large enough
for the purpose, and in doing so use every effort to
save the strongest young plants for this purpose.
This probably is more important in connection with
such root-crops as Carrots, Parsnips, and so on,
the strongest young plants upon which possess the
most robust under-ground growth. Nevertheless
the needful thinning out of Onions, Turnips, &c.,

243

requires also to be doue when the plants are young,
to obviate their being drawn and weakened by too
close contact too long a time. When hoeing such
crops, do not be satisfied with simply chopping up
weeds, or thinning out the seedling plants only, but
take care to hoe somewhat deeply, and so move the
soil as well as possible all amongst the crops.

Habitually cold nights with more or less frost are
experienced until the 20th of the month. It will be
desirable, therefore, to wait until such date is past,
then to plant out into their summer quarters such
plants of the following as have been sown in pots,
potted off, and duly hardened in readiness—i.e.,
Tomatoes, which succeed best against warm walls,
or fences, Ridge Cucumbers, Vegetable Marrows,
Capsicums, Chilis, &c. Take care to prepare the
ground for all of these some time before the time of
planting arrives. Too frequently this matter is
wholly neglected. Should cold winds, &c., prevail,
some slight temporary protection may with advan-
tage be placed over them. When due preparation
as above has not been made, by sowing seeds of
Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows in pots, seeds of
such may be inserted into the prepared spaces about
the same date. Make second sowings of Brussels
Sprouts, Veitch’s Giant Cauliflower, Snow’s Winter
White, Grange’s and Sprouting Broccoli also
towards the middle of the month. Such sowings
will produce nice thrifty-growing young plants, in
readiness for finally transplanting on to such vacant
spaces as are formed by the removal of early summer
crops, and they will prove more thrifty than the
older ones, should any remain in seed-beds from the
earlier sowings. So soon as the young seedling Leeks
are large enough, transplant on to deeply enriched
ground, Continue to prick out and bring on Celery
plants, so as to insure a nice lot of forward ones in
readiness for finally planting out anon.

Do not omit to thoroughly root-water all growing
vegetables should the weather prove dry. Good
vegetables are only secured by this means, and able
culturists make a point of giving all one good root-
watering per weck during all dry-weather periods.
Where this aid is proffered, however, let it be given
freely and well, else it will do more harm than good.

Earth up Potatoes. First of all hoe deeply on both
sides of each row, then draw such loosened soil freely
up to the sides. Immediately plants from the early
sowings of Cabbages, Lettuces, &c., are large enough,
thin the largest ones out from amongst their kind
and transplant either permanently or in nursery
beds. The chief object in connection with all good
vegetable-growing should be to give all a free and
uninterrupted growth throughout.

Cucumbers treated as directed last month will re-
quire beyond, during this month, to have a thorough

244

overhauling. Cut away all old ripened leaves not
needed, so as to make room for succeeding young
ones. At the same time, should a free growth be
made, and abundant haulm, with free fruiting, an
‘occasional length of aged haulm, which has done
its duty, may be cut away altogether. This done,
add a surfacing of fresh soil to the whole inter-
nal surface of the bed, an operation which it is well
to do. Tying up Lettuces and Endive, drawing
Radishes immediately they are fit for use, covering
over the heads of Cauliflowers forming their bloom-
heads, drawing them in good time for use, picking
Peas immediately they are ready, sweeping and
rolling walks, &c., all require periodical attention.

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

By Wiitiam Hue Gower.

Imantophyllum.—A genus of Amaryllids of
great beauty, now merged into Clivia. They are
robust-growing plants, with stout lorate leaves, which
‘ are arranged in a two-ranked fashion (distichous),
and sheath at the base ; colour deep green.

These plants should be potted in rich loam, and
during the growing season an abundant supply of
water is necessary to their well-being; but when
growth is complete it should be partially withheld.
The name is sometimes written Imatophyllum and
also Himantophylhun.

I. cyrtanthiflorum.—aA very fine plant, with erect
scapes, longer than the leaves, many-flowered ;
flowers tubular, drooping, reddish-orange in colour.
Various seasons. South Africa.

I. Gardenii,—This is a winter-blooming variety,
bearing large umbels of tubular flowers, which are
drooping, much curved, and rich orange-red in
colour. Natal.

I. miniatum.—Flower-scape erect, longer than the
intense deep green leaves; umbels many-flowered ;
flowers broadly campanulate, pale red and orange.

There are several varieties of this species, of which
we may euumerate miniatum superbum, and Martha
Reimers, the latter a magnificent form ; but all are
good. Spring and early summer. Natal.

Knightia.—A genus of Proteaceae, which con-
tains but one species, which is a tall thin tree,
attaining a height of from eighty to a hundred feet.
Its wood is esteemed for-its colour, which is red and
brown, curiously mottled, and which takes a good

polish, and is extensively used in cabinet-work. It.

requires the same treatment under cultivation as
_ Banksia and Dryandra.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

EK. excelsa.—'The New Zealand Honeysuckle.”
Leaves linear-oblong, entire, upwards of six inches
in length, and more than one inch in breadth, and
bluntly toothed at the edges; the texture is hard
and harsh, dark green above, somewhat ferruginous
beneath ; flowers in dense axillary racemes, velvety-
brown. In a young state this plant is extremely
ornamental, Northern Island of New Zealand.

Lapageria. — This genus contains only one
species, and with the genus Philesia comprises the
order Philesiacee (now merged into Liliaceae). Lapa-
geria is a climbing plant, and perhaps one of the
most beautiful ever introduced to cultivation.

In some parts of England it has proved hardy,
but although it is a lover of a very cool and moist
situation, there are few places that will suif it
without protection. The soil should be used very
rough, and consist of equal parts of loam and peat,
It is nearly related to the Smilax family, and, like
the members of that genus, must have the most open
drainage it is possible to provide. :

L. rosea.—This beautiful scandent plant succeeds
admirably on a north wall in a cool green-house,
but if grown in a pot it should be trained on either
a large balloon or umbrella-shaped trellis ; the leaves
are hard, alternate, cordate in shape, and dark
shining green above, paler beneath; flowers large,
produced from the axils of the leaves, thick and
fleshy in texture, bell-shaped, with a spreading
mouth, rich rosy-crimson in colour, spangled with
white on the inside. It blooms during summer and
autumn, several months in succession, and lasts a
long time in full beauty. Chili. ,

L. rosea, var. alba.—A variety of the preceding,
from which it differs in nothing but the colour of
its flowers, and these are pure waxy-white. It is a
most exquisite plant. Chili.

Leschenaultia.—A small but very ornamental
genus belonging to the order Goodeniacee ; they are
soft in texture, with closely-set, dark green, Heath-
like leaves, and brilliant flowers; they also much
resemble the Heaths in the treatment they require
in order to produce good specimens ; there is, how-
ever, a little difference necessary in their manage-
ment, for although they enjoy plenty of free air and
light, full exposure to the sun in the open air does
not suit them. During the winter Leschenaultias
must be kept near the glass so as to prevent the
shoots from drawing, all superabundant moisture
must be guarded against, and if the weather proves
dull and heavy, an occasional dusting with sulphur
will tend to prevent mildew from fixing upon the
foliage.

The soil should be very sandy peat, with just

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

a small portion of light loam dusted amongst it;
in potting, press the soil firmly down, for, like most
very fine-rooted plants, they cannot grow in loose
soil. In the matter of watering, follow the instruc-
tions given for the hard-wood Ericas.

All are natives of South Australia.

LI. Bazterii.—Flowers deep salmon-colour.
and July.

L. biloba major, sometimes called L. grandiflora:—
A rather strong-growing species for the family, with
rich deep blue flowers. May and June.

LI. formosa.—A dwarf and close-growing plant;
flowers bright orange-scarlet. Muy and June.

LI. splendens. — A
somewhat robust
kind; flowers bright

June

scarlet. June and
July. ;
Leucadendron.

—A genus of Pro-
teaceous plants; all
natives of the Cape
of Good Hope and
its neighbourhood ;
they require the
same treatment as
Banksia.

L. argenteum.—We
give this species only.
It is a very beautiful
plant, though seldom
seen in our gardens;
it is the Silver Tree
of the colonist, and
was called “ Witle-
bloom” by the early
Dutch settlers; it is,
however, becoming scarce in its habitats through
being cut down for firewood.

The leaves of this plant are narrowly-lanceolate,
closely set upon the stems, both surfaces being
densely clothed with pure white, shiny, silky hairs;
the flowers are yellow, borne on large terminal
globose heads.

Leucopogon.—A large genus belonging to the
Epacris family, which may be treated in a similar
manner. The name is derived from the white-
bearded flowers; they are very hardy, and are
valuable for cutting, as the flowers last a long time
in water, and are well adapted for bouquet-making.

Leucopogons are robust-growing plants, attaining
a height of from four to twelve feet in their native
country ; the leaves are mostly lanceolate, hard, and
bright green ; the flowers of all the species are white,

LapaGERiIa ROSEA ALBA,

245

produced on axillary racemes in great abundance.

The following are the most ornamental species :—
L. australis.—Winter months. South Australia.
L. ericoides.—Spring months. New South Wales.

L. juniperoides——Winter and spring. New South
Wales.

L. lanceolatus.—Winter and spring. New South
Wales.

L. Richei.—Winter and spring. Tasmania.
L. verticillatus. — Winter to midsummer.
South Wales.

New

Lisianthus.—A smal! family of plants belong-
ing to the Gentian-
worts, consisting of
handsome flowering
under-shrubs, which,
however, have always
been found extremely
difficult to cultivate ;
but whatever labour
or care may be ex-
pended in order to
bring them to per-
fection is amply
repaid by their inde-
scribable beauty.

Many of the spe.
cies are annuals only,
but L. Russellianus
(named in honour of
the Duke of Bedford)
is a biennial; it may
be perpetuated by
% cuttings; seedlings,
niverssd however, make the
ibran’s | best plants.

~~" This plant, though
included in the green-house division, in reality re-
quires a little more than green-house treatment,
yet cannot suffer to be confined in the stove; the
old-fashioned hot-bed, however, will suit it ad-
mirably during the time that it requires a little
bottom heat.

LT. Russellianus attains a height of between two
and three feet; the leaves are opposite, ovate,
smooth, and glaucous-green ; flowers axillary, with a
funnel-shaped tube, and five-parted spreading limb
of the most beautiful purplish-blue.

The best season to sow the seed is some time in
the month of March. The soil should be composed
of equal parts of light loam, leaf-mould, peat,
thoroughly decomposed manure, and sharp sand; it
should be used in rather a rough condition in all
stages of the plant’s growth. The seeds sown on this
soil should not be covered with mould, but have a

246

bell-glass placed over them until germination takes
place. When the plants are sufficiently large to
handle without injury, put them singly into small
pots, using the same soil as before recommended.
A hot-bed is the best for them from this time up to
the autumn, when a warm corner in the green-
house, with plenty of light, will prove to be the
best winter quarters ; during this time careful water-
ing is very requisite, and special attention will be
required to keep away mildew.

When the plants are about twelve months old, shift
them again, this time into the flowering-pots, using
the same compost, and remove back to the hot-bed.

Treated in this manner they will produce their
beautiful flowers about midsummer, and continue in
full beauty for a considerable time. As the plants
decline, attention should be paid to preserving the
seed. Mexico.

L. princeps.—This truly exquisite plant, always
rare has very nearly again slipped out of cultivation.
As will be seen by our figure, it is totally different
in shape to the preceding species, and is one of the
very grandest plants known.

The leaves are ovate-lanceolate, and deep green ;
flowers, several together, on the points of the shoots ;
these are tubular, some five inches or more long,

swollen in the middle, with a spreading five-lobed

limb; the colour is rich crimson-lake, passing into
golden-orange at both ends, the segments of the
limb being vivid green. It blooms during the
summer months. New Grenada.

Lomatia.—aA genus of Proteaceous plants, more
remarkable for the beauty of their foliage than their
flowers. They have pinnate, or more frequently
bipinnate and tripinnatifid leaves, the segments
being finely toothed, and thick and leathery in tex-
ture. They make handsome bushes, and are simply
invaluable for cutting, as they last a very long time
in the open air when used with button-hole flowers.

For soil, use sandy loam and peat in equal parts ;
drain well.

Lomatias are rather slow-growing when young,
but after they have attained some age and strength
they bear cutting well.

L. elegantissima.—A dwarf plant, having thick,
leathery, bipinnatifid, Fern-like leaves, which are
bright dark green above, slightly paler below. New
Zealand.

L. ferruginea.—Leaves much divided; segments
ovate, with trifid ends, dark green above, rusty-
brown beneath, Chili.

L. silaifolia.—The leaves of this species are very
prettily veined and bipinnatifid; segments wedge-
shaped; dark green on the upper side, glaucous
beneath. South Australia,

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

4
iY \

\

Luculia.—A family of
bold- growing Nepaulese I}
trees, attaining a height
of twenty to thirty feet,
and belonging to the
order Cinchonacee. On ac-
count of their great size
they are more satisfactory
when planted out in the
conservatory border, or
in the green-house, where
they succeed well upon a
back wall. They ‘do, how-
ever, in some cases flower
in quite a young state.

The soil should be peat
and loam in equal pro-
portions, with a little
sand added in order to
keep it porous.

L. gratissima.—aA very
handsome and strong
grower, having large,
opposite, ovate, acumi-
nate leaves, furnished |
with stipules; fu) |
dark green above, ji
and slightly downy /
beneath; the flowers
are produced in
dense terminal
cymes, soft rosy-
pink in colour,
giving off a
grateful fra-
grance. This
plant is in
bloom dur-
ing the winter
months.

-U. Pinceana, — Similar in general appearance to

Ws
LISIANTHUS PRINCEPS,

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS, 247

the preceding. The individual flowers, however,
are much larger, and the limb is pure white. Winter
months.

Macleania.—Handsome shrubs, nearly related
to Thibaudia and Vaccinium. They, like all the
allied plants, are extremely handsome when in
flower; but, as before remarked, rather difficult to
cultivate. For treatment see Ceratostema.

M. pulchra.—An evergreen plant, with large, alter-
nate, deep green leaves, which are tinged with rosy-
pink when young;
flowers on axillary
racemes, long and
tubular; tubes angu-
lar; orange-scarlet,
tipped with yel-
lowish - green. May
and June. New
Grenada.

MM. speciosissina,.—
A pendulous shrub,
with ovate leathery
leaves, which in the
young state are of a
beautiful port-wine
tint, changing to
deep green as they
acquire age; flowers
tubular, drooping,
sharply angled, bril-
liant scarlet, tipped
with yellow. Spring
months. Columbia.

‘+ Magnolia.—tThis

genus of magnificent
hardy trees contri-
butes one or two
species towards the ornamentation of our green-
houses and conservatories.

They thrive ‘na mixture of rich turfy loam and
good peat.

M. Campbellii.icThis grand species, after many
failures, was first introduced in a living state about
the year 1865.

It is described as being a fine deciduous tree, at-
taining a height of 100 to 150 feet, and producing
its very large crimson and white flowers before the
leaves appear. Although asserted by some to be
hardy in this country, there is no doubt that it
will always require the shelter of the green-house or
winter garden. Native of the mountains of Sikkim.

MM, fuscata.—A dwarf-growing plant, with small
oblong leaves, which are bright green. The young
branches are clothed with a ferruginous tomentum ;

LucULIA GRATISSIMA,

the flowers are rather small, but deliciously fragrant.
Spring months. China. Now called Michelia fuscata.

Mandevilla.—A genus belonging to the Apocy-
nee or Dogbanes, containing a single species only,
and this is a very handsome plant. When ficst in-
troduced it'came to us under the name of the “Chilian
Jasmine.”

The soil for its cultivation should be composed
of rough loam and peat in about equal parts.

HM. suaveolens.—One of the finest of green-house
climbers when
planted out, but no
amount of care or
attention has yet
proved of any avail
in the efforts to in-
duce it to grow and
flower as a pot-plant ;
it should therefore be
planted in the border
and encouraged to
make wu good free
growth. In autumn
the long shoots may
be pruned back hard ;
treated in this man-
ner, about the month
of June the points of
the shoots will be
covered with their
large trumpet-
shaped, pure white,
and fragrant flowers.
Buenos Ayres.

Mesembryan-
themum.—aA large
family of succulent
plants, popularly known as “ Fig Marigolds” and
“ Hottentot Figs,” many of which are of great
beauty. The majority of the species are natives of
the Cape of Good Hope, their natural habitats being
dry sandy plains and barren rocky places, the thick
fleshy leaves enabling them to withstand unharmed
the severe drought which surrounds them.

The generic name comes from two Greek words,
which signify ‘ Mid-day Flower,” as the blooms
always remain closed in the absence of sunshine.
One species, M. crystallinum, is a rambling member
of the family, being a native of Greece and the
Canary Islands, as well as South Africa. Its leaves
are gathered in large quantities, and from them is
obtained an alkali much esteemed in the manufac-
ture of glass. It is known in English gardens by the
name of ‘Ice Plant,” on account of the leaves being

248 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

covered with large watery pustules or blisters, which
glisten in the sun as if frozen into ice. This pro-
duces a very cool and refreshing effect, and hence
the plant is extensively grown for garnishing pur-
poses.

Amongst the numerous species of this family may
be found plants to suit the tastes of all lovers of
nature; thus, those who love bright and showy
flowers can here indulge their fancy; again, those
whose chief delight is the tasteful arrangement of
the geometrical beds in the parterre can here find
numerous species admirably adapted to their wants.
if no other situation for their culture is available

but the cottage window, Mesembryanthemums will
adapt themselves to the circumstances, and bloom as
freely as if situated in the best-constructed green-
house; whilst those who delight in the curious can
here find structural grace and beauty ad libitwn, for
amongst the smaller-growing kinds we have leaves
resembling the mouths of wolf, tiger, leopard, fox,
dog, cat, weasel, and mouse; then there are long
tongues, blunt tongues, great tongues, and soft
tongues; club leaves, hatchet leaves, and finger
leaves; bulls’ horns, herons’ beaks, and hedgehogs ;
white eyes, and golden eyes, and a host of other ex-
traordinary forms too numerous to mention in the
limits of this article.

The cultivation of Mesembryanthemums is of the
simplest. As before mentioned, they delight in dry,
arid situations, and this knowledge should give the
cultivator the key to their management. For soil
use light sandy loam and old brick rubbish, broken
tolerably small; drain well, and during the summer

water sparingly ; in winter little or none is meces-
sary. At this'season the atmosphere must be kept
free from damp, and at all times expose them to the
full benefit of sun and light, with abundance of air.
The following list cuntains some of the most beauti-
ful and curious species :—

M. albidum. M. imbricans,
M. barbatum. M. latum.

M. blandum. M. linguzeforme.
M. calamiforme. M. lupinum.

M. candens. M, maximum.
M. caninum, M. minimum.
M. caulescens. M. murinum.
M. cordifolium variegatum. M. mustellinum.
M. conspicuum. M. nuciforme.
M. curviflorum. M. obcordellum.

MgsemprrantHemuUmM Minimum,

M. crystallinum. M. octophyllum
M. densum. M. polyanthum.
M. digitiforme. M. prepingue.
M. dolabriforme. M. reflexum.
M. echinatum. M. retroflexum.
MM. emarginatum. M. roseum.

M. falcatum. M. rostratum.
M. felinum. M. rubricaule.
M. fibuliforme. M. scalptratum.
M. fissum. M. spectabile.
M formosum, M. stillatum. ©
M. geminatum, M. taurinum.
M. glaucum, M. tigrinum.
M. grandiflorum, M. uveeforme.
M. Haworthii. M. vulpinum.

Mitraria (M. coceinea).—The only known species
of the genus, which belongs to the Gesnerads. It is
a very handsome plant, requiring the warmest end
of the green-house, and should be potted in equal
parts of peat and loam, and about an eighth part
of sharp sand. The plant is dwarf and compact
in habit, with small, closely-set leaves, which are
usually opposite and deep green. The flowers are
borne singly on long pedicles, and are tubular,

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.

bright scarlet, and very showy. It blooms during
the summer months. Chiloe.

Mutisia.—A singular genus of climbing Compo-
sites, which are very ornamental when trained upon
a pillar and well grown ; otherwise they do not make
a favourable impression. Mutisias require a cool
part of the green-house, and indeed so little require
heat that we believe they will be found hardy in some
sheltered positions in
the West of England,
but are well deserving
the attention of all
lovers of plants, as or-
naments to the green-
house and conserva-
tory. They should be
potted in rough peat
and light loam, in about
equal parts, witha small
portion of sand added.
If these simple require-
ments are attended to,
and the necessity for a
rather cool air be borne
in mind, they require
very little attention ex-
cept as noted below.

MM. decurrens.—This

cies attains a

, heig six to eight
feet; the stems are
not much branched,
and it, therefore,
should be frequently
stopped at the points
to induce the growth
of laterals. Leaves
entire, oblong-lanceo-
late, decurrent; they
are deep green above,
slightly glaucous be-
neath, and furnished
at the ends with a long tendril, by which they attach
themselves to surrounding objects. Flowers pro-
duced singly from the axils of the leaves, measuring
upwards of four inches in diameter, and rich deep
orange in colour. Summer months. Chilian Andes.

M. ilicifolia.—Like the preceding, the leaves of this
plant are entire, and furnished with a long tendril,
by means of which they support themselves. They
are sessile and sometimes decurrent, deep green on the
upper side, tomentose beneath, and furnished with
spines on the edges; flowers produced singly from the
axils of the leaves, about three inches in diameter ;
soft pink. Summer and autumn months. Chili.

MITRARIA COCCINEA.

249

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.

By D, T, Fisu, assistep BY WILLIAM CARMICHAEL.

APPLES.—PLANTING.

i so far as planting is affected by sites, soil, sorts,

it has already been treated with considerable
fulness. But such vital factors to success as pre-
paration of the soil, time and distance to plant, and
methods of planting, will form the subject of this
chapter, and sufficient
will be found in them
to explain the causes
of many orchards not
thriving as had been
hoped and expected.

Preparation of
the Soil.The im-
portance of drainage
has already been
pointed out. Apples
cannot thrive with
their roots in sour soil
or water, but the oppo-
site extreme of exces-
sive drought must also
be guarded against,
and the Apple, as a
rule, will not be found
to thrive for long
together, nor reach to
the stability of a per-
manent crop, in locali-
ties where the rainfall
fails to reach twenty-
five inches in the year.
The farther south Ap-
ple-cultivation travels,
the greater the risk of
injury from drought;
the farther north, the
greater the danger
from excess of water.

It is most important to bear this in mind in the
choice of a site and the preparation of the ground for
Apple-culture. Apples might perish from drought
on the summit of rising ground in the South, while
finding sufficient moisture half-way down, or in the

‘trough of the valley. "Whereas in the North, where

the rainfall may be double, the same site would
drown the trees, and the highest available point
could not prove too dry for them. Hence the
importance of regulating the character and extent
of drainage by the rainfall of the locality as well as
the quality of the land to be drained.

Having selected a site for the Apple garden,

250

sheltered if possible from the east and north, and
with a good depth of (say) two or more feet of
calcareous slightly-holding loam, as free from iron
as possible, the next point is to proceed to trench it
over. The soil should, however, first of all be
tested by chemical means if needful, but practically
by the last crop grown upon it. If that is poor, the
chances are that the loam is rather too lean for
Apples. In that case a liberal dressing of well-
rotted farmyard manure may be trenched into the
soil. When this is necessary it will, however, be
better to crop the ground very widely with Potatoes,
say a row four feet apart. Early varieties should
be chosen, so as to get them up and well work
the ground before the planting season commences.
Mangolds or Swedes may be substituted for Pota-
toes, only they cannot be cleared off the ground so
early, and hence are not nearly so efficient as cleans-
ing, sweetening, and manure-mixing crops.

As a rule, however, no manure is needful. But if
the ground is fresh brought under cultivation, it is
good practice to take a green crop off it the first
year, as this, by its sweetening and ameliorating
influence, hastens the growth and is more favour-
able to the health and longevity of the Apple-trees.
These first crops are not only useful mechanically,
but for removing the grosser feeding substances out
of the soil. Rank growths are not to be fostered
in Apple-trees either by the richness of maiden soil,
or by adding strong manure. For such growths
mostly run into sterility, or degenerate into canker,
serious drawbacks to the pleasant or profitable cul-
ture of the Apple or other fruit-trees.

In the trenching of the ground over either with or
without manure, the first point to be determined is
the depth to trench it. This must be largely deter-
mined by the soil itself. Supposing the suitable soil
is only a foot deep, it would be folly and wholly
injurious to force its depth, as is sometimes done, by
incorporating another foot of barren or worthless sub-
soil with the surface tilth. On the contrary, where
sand, clay, or gravel is found so near to the surface
this should be removed, and an additional foot of
good loam added to that on the spot. This will give
an average depth of two feet, which may be safely
accepted as the mean depth for Apple-trees, though
on dry sites from six inches to a foot in addition, or
a total depth of a yard, will not prove excessive.

It is important, however, that on level ground, or
sites with a regular fall, the depth should be uniform
throughout. Hence, in trenching, if the surface
tilth proves of an irregular depth, as it often does,
the subsoil should be removed, and the good earth
supplemented by fresh loam to make up the Apple
tilth to a depth of two feet or thirty inches. Before
dismissing the question of depth it may be added

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

that the drier the site and the climate the deeper tho
soil should be, the more moist the shallower. In
Cumberland or Westmoreland a foot or fifteen inches
may suffice to grow good Apples; in Devonshire and
Cornwall a yard, in East Anglia a yard or more, may
not prove excessive.

In trenching to secure uniformity of depth it is
also important that the top of the subsoil should
be made as even as the surface. Any hills found on
the subsoil should be levelled down, also the valleys
filled up, and the whole be left as hard and smooth
as its quality will allow. Where the quality is
very bad, such as sand or sheer clay, barriers may
need to be placed between it and the surface soil.
Simple concrete is most frequently used for this
purpose, and it answers well. But other methods
are sometimes employed, such as mounding and
ridge-planting. By adopting this form the evil
day when the roots will plunge into injurious sub-
soils is deferred, and in not a few cases prevented
altogether.

Uniformity of quality of soil should be aimed at as
well as regularity of depth. This comes of thorough
mixing and blending in the process of trenching.
Some, however, recommend placing the richer por-
tion of the soil a foot or eighteen inches below the
surface. The roots as they penetrate will thus find
fresh supplies, as those on the top get more or less
exhausted. But on the whole it is better to have
the soil, as nearly as may be, of one uniform quality
throughout.

Time to Plant.—Nature and experience, theory
and practice agree that the time to plant Apple,
and most fruit and other trees, is the month of
November. The leaves are just about to fall, or
have fallen, the former being the best state for
insuring success. Vital force, never at rest, is
in November comparatively active, especially root-
wards (see the Lirr-History or Pxants, which
renders it needless to dwell at any length on the
physiology of the subject here). Neither is the
solar heat of the summer and autumn yet exhausted.
Even November fogs, by reducing evaporation to
a minimum, assist the plant to suddenly re-establish
itself, and recommence growth in its root-quarters.
The drizzling rains, as well as the fogs, are useful
to the semi-detached roots, as they are conservative
of the vital forces of the tops of the Apple-trees.

Even the unfallen leaves, under such genial con-
ditions, exert a certain semi-resuscitating force, and
tend to quicken the production of fresh roots. The
latter are in an unusually active state in November.
Various reasons have been assigned for this, but the
planter is most concerned with the fact rather than
the causes of it. And of the fact there is no doubt

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.

whatever. Those moved in November re-establish
themselves sooner than at any other season. So
generally is this known and acted upon by prac-
tical men, that not a few of those who cannot plant
their Apple or other trees in November, neverthe-
less lift them during that month, and lay them
in temporarily by the heels to lie there till placed
in their permanent quarters. The roots are merely
covered with earth, and roots and tops crowded
more or less closely together while in this transition
state. Occasionally leaf-mould, or other compost,
is scattered over the roots in order to intensify and
develop to the full the root-forming tendency of
the November season,

The chief drawback to this intermediary planting
arises from its success in developing roots. These
are produced in such numbers, and grow with such
freedom, as to induce a most dangerous degree of
succulency and crispness of growth. Hence, when
the laid-in trees are removed to their permanent
quarters, not a few of their best and newest roots
are broken off or bruised out of useful condition,
the net result being a loss of time as well as of
force through the laying in by the heels of Apple or
other fruit-trees in November. But by planting
them in their permanent quarters at once the full
advantages of their abnormal root-activity are reaped
without any such drawback. To derive the fullest
possible advantages, however, from November plant-
ing, it is of importance to preserve the growing
roots from being severely frozen. This may be ac-
complished by covering them with from six to nine
inches of soil, or, better still, planting them as near
the surface as may be desired, and placing a mulch
of any long litter over them to a depth of from
six inches to a foot. Such a mulch, or surface
covering, is as conservative of moisture as of caloric,
and is one of the surest and simplest means of
commanding success in planting.

Distance to Plant.—Fifty years ago or less
there were but two distances: twenty feet for wall-
trees or espalier, and thirty for orchards and stan-
dards. At times, however, and on strong soils and
sheltered localities, these distances were extended
to twenty-five or thirty feet for espalier and wall-
trees, and forty for those in orchards. The first dis-
tances can hardly be improved for the same sorts of
trees at the present day.

The tendency, however, is to place the trees closer
together. The question of distance has now become
mixed up with that of stocks, as well as the character
of the tree. Thus, for example, Apple-trees for walls
or espalier on the Paradise stock may be planted as
closely as from ten to twelve feet, while the same
Apples on the Crab might be the better for a clear

251

space between them of twenty or twenty-five feet.
The same rule will hold. good with pyramidal or
columnar trees. Worked on the Crab, from eight to
ten feet will prove suitable distances ; worked on the
Paradise, from four to five feet will suffice. An-
other disturbing modern element also comes in to
upset the older distances. This is root-pruning, the
purport of which is to concentrate the fruiting force
of Apple and other fruit-trees into the most limited
area possible. Trees root-pruned may be planted
almost as close again as those not subjected to this
latest device for the husbanding of space as well
as of force, and for the development of fertility.

Assuming that root-pruning will be more or less
resorted to, as well as dwarfing stocks, such as the
English or French Paradise, pyramidal Apples on
these may be planted at distances of from four to
six feet apart, six feet between the rows and four
from tree to tree being a useful distance for trees on
the French Paradise. Those on the English Para-
dise may have eight feet between the lines and six
from tree to tree. Vase-shaped trees or bushes
may be planted at almost equal distances, or six feet
apart each way, or six feet by four. On poor soils
good results have been reaped by planting small
bush Apples in rows four feet apart, the plants being
only three feet from each other in the rows. Ver-
tical and oblique cordons may range from eighteen
inches to thirty or even thirty-six apart, twenty-
four inches being a useful mean. Diamond cordon
Apples do well two feet or thirty inches apart.
These form largish squares that allow of a free ex~
posure of the leaves and fruits to sun and air, and
result in fruit of the finest quality. Spiral or
waving cordons must have space proportioned to
their size. Those with an open centre a yard in
area should be seven or eight feet from centre to
centre. Horizontal cordons on the French Paradise
need not be more than four feet apart. Even on
these stocks, however, six feet is better for the
trees that are expected to last for several years, and
the double cordons should never be planted closer
than six feet, which only gives each half of the
cordon a yard run.

Planted thus closely with fertile trees, it is quite
astonishing what enormous quantities of fruit can
be gathered from limited areas.

The centre walks may either be planted with
espaliers,.on the usual method or trained over the
walks to form arbours; or the arch or pyramidal
trees may be planted in lines up to within six feet or
so of the walks, and then a line of horizontal cordons
run along as a super-edging to tiles or Box. Such
arrangements have a charming effect, and no method
of planting produces so much fruit in such a short
time and from such limited areas of ground.

252

Method of Planting. — This resolves itself
into a matter of depth, diameter, disposition, des-
patch, and the solidarity of the roots. The proper
depth to plant is a vexed question, on which more
trees have been wrecked than perhaps any other.
Plant too deeply, growth is checked; plant too
fleetly, the tree is crippled, if not killed. The
tree-stem affords the only safe guide as to depth.
‘The original ground-line is clearly marked upon
it, and that line ought to be followed to a hair’s
breadth. It is nature’s sure and certain index
asto depth. All above it is stem fitted for the air;
all below it is under-ground stem or root; and there
is nothing that trees and woody shrubs cling to
with more tenacity than this natural dividing-line
between earth and air.

But as the roots seldom proceed from this line,
the average depth of root-covering may be-accepted
.as six inches from the surface. But the roots often
proceed from the root-stock at lower planes, and
hence the holes for planting Apples may generally
be dug out to a depth of a foot or eighteen inches.
For older and larger trees they may have to bea
yard in depth. But for young trees, say a year or
vat most two from the graft, a foot or eighteen
inches will suffice.

The diameter of the hole may vary from a yard to
ix feet, according to the size of the trees and the
number of their roots. Neither is it needful to make
the hole circular; a square hole will do just as well
or better. The form is of little matter; that it
‘should be wider than the largest root is of vital
importance, so as to allow of each being spread out
to its utmost length, while still leaving a clear
‘space of several inches between it and the unmoved
earth at the sides of the hole.

The base of the hole should be made firm and
‘slightly elevated in the centre, and over this base an
inch or so of compost should be sprinkled, unless
indeed the whole of the soil has been worked or
ameliorated into a root-tempting medium by the pro-
cess already recommended.

The next step in planting is the disposition of the
roots. If the tree is young, and the roots almost
wholly in one horizontal plane, this is very simple.
A stout stake should be placed in the centre of the
hole, to which loosely tie the tree, to keep it upright.
This simple process saves the necessity for another
hand in planting. Place the tree in the hole, spread
‘out the roots regularly, and with a sharp knife cut
off any that are wounded or bruised, or any excess of
roots. Then sprinkle over them a little fine com-
post, or the choicest soil that has been removed,
‘scattering the earth on to the roots from the bole
outwards all round until the whole of the roots are
covered.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

All clods or lumps should be broken with the
spade before placing the earth over the roots, as the
attempt to break them afterwards would probably
break or bruise the roots as well. If all the earth is
returned the root-space will bea little higher than
the surrounding surface. But this will approximate
to the general level as time, the great consolidator,
does its work. ‘The surface of the soil is best left
rather loose, as this acts as a barrier to the escape of
heat and insures the conservation of vapour, loose
soil in fact acting in a similar manner, though not
to the same extent, as a surface mulch of cocoa-fibre
refuse, moss, or straw litter.

Should any of the trees have roots at different
levels on the root-stock, the operation of planting
becomes more complicated, and should proceed
tentatively. The hole must be dug sufficiently deep
for the lower roots, and as soon as these are dis-
played carefully and covered, another layer will be
displayed, and so on, till the process is completed.

_In practice, however, the process is at times more

difficult; the roots proceed from the root-stock most
irregularly, one here and another there, and it is
important that each should proceed from the root-
stock at right angles or nearly so. The result of
this careful disposition of the roots is that each
is separated from the other, with its own special
covering of soil, and all crushing or overcrowding is

‘avoided.

To’ escape the trouble of planting Apple or other
trees rooted at different levels, the lower layer of
such roots may be cut off where there are a suf-
ficiency at a higher level, and then the trees may be
planted in the usual way.

Despatch.—This is half the secret of success in
planting. The old-fashioned plan of making all the
holes for Apple or other fruit-trees several months in
advance has never been bettered. It proved a great
saving of time at the planting season, as well as
thoroughly prepared the soil; sun and shower mel-
lowing the earth into the best possible condition for
nourishing the newly-made roots.

Not a moment should be lost from the time the
Apple or other tree is out of the ground until it is
planted again; and it is here that the great advan-
tage of raising one’s own trees where practicable is
obtained. Having everything in readiness, the trees
may be lifted under such favourable circumstances and
re-planted so promptly as—to use the common phrase
of practical men—never to look behind them. In re-
ceiving trees from a distance the case is of necessity
somewhat different. So carefully, however, do most
nurserymen, florists, and tree-growers lift and pack
them, that they take comparatively little harm in tho
bundles. But it is when undone and dangled in the

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.

air, perhaps during bright sunshine, or in the teeth of
a sharp cutting wind, that the most serious injury is
done to the roots. Exposure of the roots to the air
at all is most unnatural, and consequently injurious,
and every means should be used to curtail the period
of exposure to the uttermost. The roots of even the
hardiest trees, such as the Apple, are most sensitive
to injury from cold and drought. A minute’s expo-
sure to an east wind may check the growth of the
roots for weeks, or injure them for life. Hence the

great importance of expert planting.

Solidarity.—This term is used to denote stability
of top and solidity of bottom. There are several
means of securing the latter. The oldest-fashioned
and worst plan is that of treading the trees in. So
soon as the roots were covered, boot-heels were down
upon them, and the process was repeated several
times in the process of filling up the holes, while the
finish consisted of a firmer and more persistent
surface-treading. This doubtless consolidated the
roots, and also ruptured, bruised, and broke off many’
of them as well.

Water is a much safer and more subtle, though a
slower consolidator than boot-heels or the tread of
the foot. Where trees are of considerable size, and
the weather or soil is dry, there is no better mode
of consolidation and of running the earth home and
down solid than that of flooding the roots home.

First of all, cover the roots all over with three or
four inches of fine soil. Then water so freely and
fully as fo flood the soil over with water. The
result will be the filling in of every crevice and
encasing of every root and fibre with soil, Leave
the holes to settle for half an hour or so, and then
place the remainder of the earth over the flooded
portion, and planting is complete. This is far better
than the filling in of all the earth before flooding the
roots home.

The best consolidators are time and natural
showers. These do their work more slowly, but
surely and well. Trusting to these, the earth is
simply filled in over the roots, and neither treading
nor watering given. The roots probably lose a little
time by this mode of planting, but it is the most
favourable for leaving the soil in the best mechanical
condition for their well-doing in the end. Roots,
however, seem to be unable to bite loose soil, and on
very friable soils slight mechanical compression or
aqueous consolidation quickens their fresh grip of
the soil and fosters top growth.

Stability of top is, however, as essential to suc-
cessful planting as solidity of root-run. Hence the
advice to stake before planting or immediately after-
wards, The tops of trees left unsupported become
the free sport of every passing breeze, which converts

253

their tops into levers for the displacement or snap-
ping asunder of every new-made root almost as fast
as the latter is formed. Hence, while freshly-
planted trees should be so fixed as to have the
power of sinking as the earth subsides or consoli-
dates into less bulk, they should have no power of
motion from side to side, till the new roots have
rendered the tree immovable in its new root-run.
Perfect fixity of tenure and immobility as far as
practicable are essential to the rapid re-establish-
ment of the newly-planted tree, and its permanent
health and fruitfulness. Root-disturbance or cur-
tailment may indeed be needed as surgical opera-
tions in the future career of the tree, but these come
within the range of special and exceptional treat-
ment for particular purposes, and in no way affect
our present argument in favour of solidarity on the
heels of planting.

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.

Everlasting Pea and Sweet Pea (Lathyrus).
—There are certain common forms of Lathyrus that
are weeds in our fields and hedgerows, and they are
known as Vetchlings. This comes from cetch (Latin,
vicia), “bind,” from its twining habit. Of these we
may mention L. pratensis, the Yellow Meadow
Vetchling; Z. sylvestris, the Narrow-leaved Ever-
lasting Pea; L. palustris, the Blue Marsh Vetchling ;
I. maritimus, the Sea-side Everlasting Pea, and a
few others. While they are not considered choice
enough for ordinary garden purposes, they are yet
very pretty in the highways, fields, and woods.
But we may remark of the Yellow Meadow Vetch-
ling (LZ. pratensis), which is known also as the Tare
Everlasting, that it was called in Parkinson’s time
“the Ramping Wild Vetch by the country people,
because it is the most pernicious herbe that can
grow on the earth, killing and strangling corne or
any other good herbe it shall grow by.’’? Yet in
recent times it has been recommended for cultiva-
tion as afodder. It is said that cattle eat it with
great avidity, hence it is spoken of as valuable to
be grown on very dry soil; but, owing to the creep-
ing nature of its roots, it should be grown only as
a permanent crop, This is why it is called the
Meadow Pea.

L. latifolius is the Everlasting Pea of our gardens,
and it is so named because of its perennial character.
It is also known as the Broad-leaved Everlasting
Pea. Itisa plant that grows naturally in woods,
but rarely in Britain in a wild state. There is no
doubt that what is now grown as the Everlasting
Pea represents varieties that have been greatly im-

254 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

proved by means of seeds. The ordinary form of
L. latifolius is one of the most ornamental of hardy
plants, flowering nearly all the summer and most
valuable to cut from. The flowers are of a bright
deep rose or rosy-crimson. We have seen two or
three very fine varieties, larger in the flower and
richer in the colour, but we think locality and soils
have a good deal to do with producing these dif-
ferences. There is a white variety also, known as L.
Jatifolius albus ; it is not so common as the purple-
flowered form, and though it produces seed it is not
to be relied upon as coming
true when sown, a8 many
will revert to the old type.
There is a beautiful new
variety, produced during
1884, named delicata ; in this
ease the flowers are of a
beautiful soft pink, pencilled
with rose-—really a lovely
form. The foregoing are all
climbing plants, and should
be planted against something
that they can attach them-
selves to by means of their
tendrils; and they do well
tor covering stumps of old
trees, rooteries, &. LL.
grandiflorus (the Large-
flowered Lathyrus) is a fine
form; it is very handsome,
the flowers much larger than
those of the common Ever-
lasting Pea. It is sometimes
known as L. -diflorus. Wo
may say of this that it is the
finest of all the Everlasting
Peas. The flowers are very
bright crimson-scarlet, produced with great freedom,
and earlier in point of time than the preceding.
It does well on banks and hedges, in which it will
run freely through low bushes; also in borders on
low trellises, or root-work, rock-work, &c. While the
common Everlasting Pea will flourish in almost any
garden soil, L. grandifiorus does best in a deep sandy
loam or on.a gravel subsoil. . ealifornicus is the
Californian Everlasting Pea, dwarfer-growing than
the others, having lilac, purple, and white flowers,
and does well in ordinary flower borders. L. rotundi-
folius is the Round-leaved Vetchling, from the Cau-
casus and Southern Russia. It is a small but
handsome Everlasting Pea; it is alittle delicate,
however, and should be planted against the foot of
walls or houses, where it can trail over low shrubs.
I. Drummondii is a very distinct and showy species,
most probably from California; it is a very strong

LaTHYRUS LATIFOLIUS.

grower, and probably the earliest of all the Ever-
lasting Peas to bloom. The flowers are of a rich
cerise, deepening to carmine, and produced with
wonderful freedom. Unfortunately, it is not so
well known as it deserves to be, and consequently
not nearly so much grown. A strong plant makes a
very free growth indeed, and covers a great space.
No garden may be said to be complete without LZ.
latifolius, L. grandifiorus, and L. Drummondiz.

Of the annual Sweet Peas there is now a large
group. These are varieties of Lathyrus odoratus,
which came to us from Sicily
about the year 1700. There
are now a large number of
very beautiful varieties; and
during the last two or three
years such pretty new forms
as Princess Beatrice, the
Queen, Blue Beard, Bronze
Prince, Fairy Queen, Violet
Queen, have been produced.
All the varieties are so pretty
during the summer months,
and so useful for cutting
from, that no garden may be
said to be complete without
them. One very pleasing
way to grow them is to sow a
line of seeds of mixed colours,
just as one would of ordinary
garden Peas, and stake them
with sticks or supports in the
same way. The seeds should
be sown in March, in deeply-
dug, rich ground, and then
the plants will flower pro-
fusely all through the sum-
mer. Some persons sow the
seed in August, under a warm wall or hedge, where
they will come up in autumn and stand through the
winter, having a little protection if necessary ; and
these plants will flower in May, some days befoe
those plants raised from seeds sown in March; the
flowers will be finer and more freely produced, be-
cause the plants have a longer time to thoroughly
establish themselves.

Some gardeners sow in pots at the end of August
or early in September, placing a half-dozen seeds in
each; these are put into a cold frame and kept there
until the beginning of February, when they should
have stakes placed against them, and be taken into a
warm green-house, where they flower abundantly in
early spring, and are very useful. But gardeners
of all grades generally sow their Sweet Peas too

thickly, and make no allowance for their natural

free- branching habit. There is one beautiful

aa

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.

annual Pea, namely, L. sativus, but generally sold as
Ly asureus ; it is not fragrant like LZ. odoratus. It
is of dwarf growth, and bears profusely charming
pale blue blossoms. It does well in good garden
soil.

The Scabious (Scabiosa)—The generic name
(Scadbiosa) means Scurfy, from scabies, “scurf,” in
allusion to the scaly pappus of its seeds, which, on
the doctrine of signatures, led to its use in leprous
diseases. Scabies is also rendered “the itch”: this
plant being considered by our forefathers a certain
cure for that eruptive disease. The Scabious is in-
cluded in the order Dipsacacee, which also compre-
hends the Teasel—both the cultivated and the wild
varieties. The former (Dipsacus fullonum) is very
useful in that the heads are employed by fullers to
raise the nap on woollen cloths. For this purpose
they are fixed round the circumference of a cylinder,
which is made to revolve against the surface of the
cloth, and raise the nap, by their hooked, stiff, spiny
bracts; and this they do better and more effectively
than any mechanical contrivance hitherto invented.
In the clothing districts of Somersetshire and York-
shire, the cultivation of the Teasel is a matter of
consideration. This plant is a native of the South
of Europe, and may also be found wild in England,
but it cannot be regarded as indigenous, having, in
all probability, escaped from cultivation. The wild
Teasel is Dipsacus sylvestris, a stout herbaceous plant,
with an erect prickly stem, and large bright green
leaves, which are prickly underneath, and urited at
the base, and often contain water. It is common
by roadsides and in hedgerows. The bracts of this
species are not hooked at the points, and therefore
the heads are not adapted to the use of clothiers.
‘The leaves, uniting at the base, and forming a basin
round the stem, collect water, and the country people
regard the water as a cure for warts, a remedy for
bleared eyes, anda beauty-wash for the face—hence
it is called Venus’ Bath. There is another curious
custom practised by the country people of England.
If the heads are opened longitudinally in September
or October, there is generally found a small worm in
each: only one is found in each head. People collect
three, five, or seven of these—always observing to
make an odd number—and sealing them up in a quill,
wear them as an amulet against the ague (Hogg’s
“Vegetable Kingdom”). Of the British species
the best known is S. succise, the Devil’s Bit Scabious.
“‘It is commonly called,” says Gerarde, “ Morsus
diaboli, or Devil's Bit, of the root (as it seemeth)
that is bitten off—for the superstitious people hold
opinion that the Devil, for envy that he beareth to
mankind, bit it off, because it would be otherwise
good for many uses.” This is a perennial; is in

258

flower from August to October, and it grows in
grassy, rather moist pastures. The Field Scabious
is Knautia arvensis. It was named so in honour of
Dr. Knaut, a physician and naturalist of Halle, in
Saxony. -drvensis, “field,” frequently refers to the
usual plan of growth. In addition to being commonly
known as the Field Scabious, in some parts of the
North it is known as the Great Blue Capes, or Caps,
from its tuft of blue flowers. It is a well-known
plant in corn-fields, where it is injurious; but in
pastures, as it produces «a large amount of herbage
which is readily eaten by all the farming stock, it is
not so objectionable. The whole plant is slightly
bitter and astringent, and has been recommended as
remedial in various disorders, both internal and ex-
ternal; “but,” says Dr. Martyn, “woe be to him
who trusts on such broken reeds.” The flowers, if
fumigated with tobacco-smoke, have their delicate
blue colour changed to a bright green. This is
caused by the ammonia contained in the smoke.

The cultivated Scabious are all hardy herbaceous
perennials; the best known in our gardens are the
varieties of S. major, of which there are tall-growing
and dwarf-growing sections, both double and single.
‘There is a very fine dark purple form, known as
S. atropurpurea, which came from the East Indies;
and there is a rich scarlet variety from Germany,
named atrococcinea. What are known as the
German Scabious are greatly improved garden
varieties of different colours; all being very fine
and showy. 8S. caucasia, the Caucasian Scabious, is
one of the handsomest hardy perennials we possess,
and one which should be grown by everybody, if
only for the sake of its flowers for cutting, a use to
which they are particularly well adapted. They
last for a long time in water, and their peculiar
soft lilac- blue shade is charming. It grows two
feet or so in height, forming a spreading dense
tuft, and thriving well in any open place in ordi-
nary garden soil. It is a vigorous grower, tho-
roughly hardy, and very free-blooming. This is a
native of the Caucasus and Armenia, in arid places.
It can be propagated by a division of the root, or
from seeds, as in the case of the German and other
garden varieties. All that we have named succeed
well in ordinary garden soil. There are a few other
species, such as S. graminifolia, the Grass-leaved
Scabious, from the mountains of Italy and Switzer-
land, which should be grown in sandy loam on the
margins of warm borders; S. ochroleuca, the Yellow
Scabious, from Germany, requiring a similar position
and soil; and S. Febbiana, Webb’s Scabious, from
Phrygia, also needing a warm border and sandy
loam. But the cultivation of these is mainly in

botanic gardens, where collections of species are

preserved.

256

Megasea (Saxifrage)._The Megaseas were for-
merly included among the Saxifrages, but they now
form a group by themselves. There are not many

‘of them, but they are a valuable group of very in-

teresting hardy plants, closely allied to the Saxi-
frages, it is true, but very distinct in general ap-
pearance. The foliage consists of large, bold leaves,
from six to twelve inches in length, very thick, and
usually evergreen, They flower in spring, some
carlier than others; the blossoms are in numerous
panicles, about 4 foot in height, and from six to
eight inches in circumference. They are all more
or less distinct in foliage and flower, and well worth
growing in summer borders and in pots; and most
of them do well in smoky
atmospheres. They are all
hardy perennials. One of
the best known is If. (Sazi-
Fraga) cordifolia. This is a
very large-leaved evergreen
perennial, and it blooms pro-
fusely in early spring; the
flowers are rose-coloured.
There are some good varieties
of this, One is named pur-
purea, because of the rich
purple colour of the flowers,
and it is perhaps the very
best of the group. WX. cras-
sifolia is the Thick-leaved
Saxifrage, and is very closely
allied to the foregoing, but it
is considered, on the whole,
superior. Both are natives
of Siberia, and they are
admirably adapted for planting in the spring
garden, where they flower very freely indeed. UU.
ciliata, or ligulata, is a very early variety also,
and may be used in pots in early spring for a
cold-house with great effect. There are several
pleasing varieties of this. MM. orbicularis has thick
leathery foliage, and heads of rose-coloured flowers ;
it is later in flowering than the preceding. MM.
Stracheyi is a fine plant, producing large spreading
panicles of white flowers of great beauty. Being
plants of strong growth and also free - flowering,
they should be planted in a good deep loam, trenched
and well manured, and have some top-dressings of
manure in early spring. All the Megaseas can be
propagated by division of the roots.

We have alluded to M. cordifolia doing well in
smoky atmospheres. It is an admirable plant for
forecourt gardens in towns; it stands all weathers,
and as soon as the reviving influences of spring are
felt it unfolds its leaves and develops its flowers: a
charming spring plant of unusual attractiveness,

MEGASEA CRASSIFOLIA.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

American Cowslip (Dodecatheon).—The Do-
decatheons make up a small genus of Primrose-
worts. According to Chaucer, “wort” was a term
applied to all cultivated plants. These American
Cowslips grow freely in woods in North America,
where they are known by the name of Shooting
Stars. “ They are all perennial, and perfectly hardy
in this country, requiring a cool situation, and light
loamy soil, though they grow as freely in peat or
leaf-mould, but a proper situation is the principal
point in their cultivation. All grow freely, and
soon form large tufts, which require division every
third or fourth year. The best time to perform this
operation is the latter end of January or beginning
of February, when the roots
are becoming active, taking
care not to divide them into
too small pieces, as in that
case they are in danger of
losing the plants while in a
weakly condition” (Garden).
The species and varieties in
cultivation are as follows :—
D. Meadia, the common Ame-
rican Cowslip, the flowers of
which are of a pale purple,
and fragrant, and produced
in umbels on erect, slender
stems, twelve to fifteen inches
high. Of this there are several
distinct varieties, differing
more or less in size of flower,
colour, and height of plant.
Among the best of these may
be mentioned D. giganteum,
elegans, albiflorum, and violaceum. D. Jeffreyanum is
the Giant American Cowslip, the largest of the group ;
the foliage is long and erect; the stems are twenty
inches in height, supporting large umbels of droop-
ing, rose-coloured flowers, with yellow centres. In
rich, moist, loamy soil the plant: grows vigorously in
an ordinary border, but it succeeds best when par-
tially shaded from the mid-day sun. It is thoroughly
hardy, and one of the best of our border perennials,
D. integrifolium is the Entire-leaved American Cow-
slip; being, perhaps, the most lovely of the genus,
and an excellent rock-plant. Its foliage begins to
make its appearance in March, and when well grown
attains a height of from four to five inches, sup-
porting four to ten Cyclamen-like blooms, of a
deep crimson colour. It is a perfect little gem for
a cool, shady spot.

Jacob’s Ladder (Polemoniwm).—This plant is
usually supposed to have derived its name (Jacob’s
Ladder) from its successive pairs of leaflets. It is

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS. 257

also known as the Greek Valerian, which appears
to be a name of uncertain origin. The generic
name is from polemos, “ war;” and according to
Pliny a dispute about its discovery led to a war.
P. ceruleum, which is usually regarded as the Jacob’s
Ladder, is an old garden favourite, with its tender

that it has become a favourite bedding plant, also for
the rockwork, and for edgings, but when used in
this manner the flower-spikes should be kept cut
away. In good garden soil, the variegated form,
known as P. ceruleum variegatum, is easily cultivated,
but it is apt to go off on a very wet clayey ground,

(i hiv

DopEcaTHEON JEFFREYI.

green leaves, and rather showy blue flowers, and is
widely diffused over the northern regions of the
world. It is a British plant, but abounds also in
Siberia and Northern Europe. It is a fine border
plant, producing panicles of blue flowers in early
summer, and doing well in ordinary garden soil.
There are several varieties of this species, and one
has white flowers (P. cerulewm album) arid forms a
handsome and attractive plant. The striking beauty
of the variegated variety is so generally recognised
41

while it will flourish in a deep, rich, well-drained
loam. As regards its propagation, it is effected by
simply digging up well-established old plants, pulling
them in pieces, and then planting them immediately
in a nursery bed of good soil. ‘This is best done in
early autumn, so that the young plants may be
nicely established before mid-winter. P. reptans, the
creeping Polemonium, is a low spreading kind, and
a valuable spring-flowering species, with panicles of
blue flowers. This is a native of North America,

258

nnd it can be propagated by division and by seeds..
P. Richardsoni is a little-known but very beautiful
hardy perennial, allied to the old Jacob’s Ladder, but
far superior in every respect. It is a native of Arctic
North America, consequently is thoroughly hardy ;
and as it is will thrive in almost any soil or situa-
tion, and is also a fine decorative plant, it should be
universally cultivated. The flowers are of a lovely
sky-blue colour, with golden-yellow anthers, forming
a striking contrast, and are produced in large lax
heads. It grows about two feet in height, and

_ flowers in May or June. There is quite w large
group of species and their varicties, but those we
have named are best deserving of a place in gardens.
They are also very free of
bloom, lasting for some
time in flower.

The Evening Prim-
rose (Gnothera). — The
common Evening Prim-
rose is Gnothera biennis,
a tall and stout herbaceous
plant, with long, light
green, smooth leaves, and
large, pale yellow, fragrant
flowers; and it is called
the Evening Primrose be-
cause its flowers open about
six or seven o’clock in the
evening, and, as Parkinson
observed in 1629, ‘“ consist-
ing of four pale yellow
leaves, smelling somewhat
like unto a Primrose, as the colour is also, which
hath caused the name.”

It isa native of North America, but has become
quite naturalised in many spots in the British
Islands, and also in many countries on the Continent
of Europe.

There is this peculiarity about the Evening Prim-
rose, that it appears to open its flowers very sud-
denly, because the points of the calyx are hooked
together, and the lower part is burst open some
time before the growth of the corolla is sufficient
to force apart the hooks, but when once this is
effected, the yellow corolla seems to spread itself out
suddenly.

In reference to its generic name, it is found in
Theophrastus, Dioscorides, and Pliny, and is de-
rived from the Greek words, onios, “wine,” and
thera, “imbibing,” because the plant to which
they applied the name provoked thirst, and a
desire for bacchanal indulgence. It was a pink-
flowered plant, and does not seem to have been
at all related to our genus Gnothera.

(ENOTHERA TARAXACIFOLIA.

The specific .

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

name refers to its being « biennial — sown in
one year, it blooms and perfects its seeds in the
next or second year. G. biennis will grow well
in ordinary garden soil, and is increased by means
of seed.

There are several very fine hardy perennial forms
of the Evening Primrose; foremost is @. acaulis,
a neat Alpine species, forming dwarf little tufts
of greyish foliage, which produce an abundance
of large white flowers; it is very distinct, and a
most useful plant. It is a native of Chili. @.
eximia (syn. Gi. marginata) is the Large Evening
Primrose, introduced from North America some
years ago. It is a very fine kind, growing from
, nine to twelve inches in
height, blooming as nobly
as any luxuriant native
of tre tropics, the indi-
vidual flower being four
to five inches across, of
the purest white, chang-
ing as the flowers become
older to a very delicate
rose, the blooms coming
full above the toothed or
jagged leaves as the even-
ing approaches, and re-
maining in all their glory
during the night, emitting
a delicious Magnolia-like
odour. It is a true peren-
nial, quite hardy, and
increased by suckers from
the root, which are freely
produced. It can also be increased by cuttings.
It begins to flower in May, continuing till the
weather gets hot about July, when it seems to like
a rest, and again blooms in September and October.
Young vigorous specimens in rich ground would
probably flower continuously throughout this period.
The following accounts for its introduction to this
country :—“ Mr. Robert Stark, of Edinburgh, a
well-known lover and cultivator of rare hardy
plants, obtained roots of this when in Canada from
a botanist in the Western States of America, and it
is to him we are indebted for its introduction to our
gardens.” (. macrocarpa is in reality a broad-leaved
form of G. missouriensis, the Missouri Evening
Primrose. It is a native of the dry hills on the
Missouri, and the banks of the river. It is a noble
and most useful herbaceous plant, with prostrate,
rather downy stems, entire leaves, their margins
and nerves covered with silky down, and bears rich,
clear golden-yellow flowers from four to five inches
in diameter. It is a very showy plant, growing in
almost any soil or situation. As the seed is but

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.

rarely perfected, it is better increased by careful
division, or by cuttings made in April. The flowers
open best in the evening. @. speciosa is the Tall
White or Showy Evening Primrose, and is a native
of the southern parts of North America. It is a
free-growing hardy perennial, two feet in height,
forming neat tufts composed of many erect stems,
which are covered from June to October with nume-
rous large, white, fragrant flowers. It is increased
by division, cuttings, or seeds, but does not seed
freely in this country; and it flourishes vigorously
in well-drained rich loam. In Paris this species is
extensively used for bedding purposes, for which it
is well adapted, and as a border plant few can be
found to equal it. C. taraxacifolia (in reality a form
of @. acaulis) is one of the prettiest of the dwarf
Evening Primroses, forming prostrate tufts of
deeply-divided foliage, and therefore called the
Dandelion Enothera. The plant is quite hardy and
perennial, but on some very cold soils it perishes in
winter. Where it does well the plant is much ad-
mired, and it should be raised annually from seed.
It will thrive in almost any garden soil, but best in
one rich and deep, and it is very effective in the
rock-garden. It is a mative of Chili, flowering all
the summer and autumn, and seldom rising more than
Six inches above the ground. @. Youngi is one of the
most ornamental of the perennial Evening Primroses.
Growing about two feet in height, and producing a
profusion of deep vellow flowers, it makes a first-class
border plant. It isa Canadian species. @. Drummondi
is a sulphur-yellow-Howered variety, growing a foot
in height, but smaller in the blossoms than the pre-
ceding species. It isa native of Texas. There isa
dwarf variety of this named nana, and a white-flowered
form named alba, both what are termed garden
varieties. They make excellent hardy plants.

. Lamarckiana (correct name @. biennis grandi-
fora) is a hardy biennial, also from Texas. It is a
noble plant, growing three to four feet in height,
producing many long spikes of very large yellow
flowers. Seeds should be sown every year to secure
successional plants. It flowers all the summer, and
onwards until quite late in the season.

There are a few annual varieties that are quite
hardy. The best are G. bistorta Veitchiana, very
dwarf, bright yellow, very free: @. rosea, rose, very
pretty; . Sellowi, yellow, free, and pleasing; and
. tetrapiera, white, very free and attractive. These
annual varieties can be raised from seeds, it being
necessary simply to sow them in the open ground.

The most notable localities for the Evening Prim-
rose in a semi-wild state in Britain are on the coasts
of Lancashire, and sand-banks a few miles north of
Liverpool; and also near the east coast, at Wood-
bridge, in Suffolk.

259

Sunflower (Helianthus)\—The common Sun-
flower of our gardens is H. annuus ; the specific name
is from helios, ‘the sun,” and anthos, ‘‘a flower,” in
reference to the opinion that this flower turns round
after the sun. It is also named Sunflower from its
“resembling the radiant beams of the sun,’ as
Gerarde states, and not as some of our popular poets
have supposed, from its flowers turning to face the
sun, which they never do.

There are annual and perennial varieties, and of
the former the most generally grown are the
Californian, H. californieus, a fine tall-growing
variety ; the Dwarf, also yellow, and about three feet
high; the Leviathan and the new Double Orange,
both very fine garden varieties, the former single
and very large; and the common Tall Sunflower,
which came to us years ago from South America.
The common Sunflower, apart from its ornamental
character as a conspicuous object in gardens and
shrubberies, is also a much more important plant
than it is generally supposed to be. In France, the
leaves are used for forage for cattle, which are said to
eat them with great relish and avidity. The stalks
make an excellent fuel, and yield a large quantity of
potash after they are burned; or, if not wanted for
that purpose, the ashes may be used as manure by
sowing them over the land, or mixing in the manure
heap. In Portugal the seeds are used to make a
wholesome and nutritious bread, and, when roasted,
they form an excellent substitute for coffee; in some
parts of the Continent a kind of bowildi (boiled or
stewed meat) is made of them, which serves as food
for infants. They also yield by expression a fixed
oil, little if at all inferior to olive oil, which is used
in some parts of Europe both for burning in lamps
and other domestic purposes to which olive oil is
applied, and for making soups. As food for poultry
they have been found to be very nutriticus. One
acre will produce fifty bushels of seed, yielding fifty
gallons of oil, and about 1,500 Ibs. of oil-cake; and
the stems will yield about 10 per cent. of potash
(Hoge’s “ Vegetable Kingdom”). It need scarcely
be stated that the Sunflower is a very accommodating
plant, but the richer and better the soil, the tiner the
flowers. Of late years the Sunflower has become
very popular, the prevalence of what are termcd
zsthetical ideas having given a great impetus to
its culture. The tall-growing varieties, both the
double and single, are very suitable for the backs
of flower borders, and the verges of shrubbery
borders.

‘There are several very fine perennial species and
varieties of Sunflowers well worthy a place in the
garden, some double and some single-flowered—all
growing freely and flowering abundantly. H. angusti-
Ffolius, the Narrow-leaved North American Sunflower,

260 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

HELIANTHUS MULTIFLORUS FBLORE-PLENO.

is a rare and interesting species, remarkable for being
the dwarfest of the perennial group, producing a tuft
of spreading, dark green, glossy leaves, and slender
stems two and a half feet high, bearing numerous

flowers one and a half inches across, arranged in
a long leafy raceme. This species flowers abun-
dantly in September and October. H. multiflorus,
the Perennial Single Sunflower, or the Many-.

THE PINE-APPLE.

flowered Sunflower, is a vigorous-growing peren-
nial, four feet in height, producing large deep
yellow flowers from June to October, very useful
for cutting, and one of the best of our autumn-
flowering perennials, either for massing or for
single specimens in the border, and it is one of
the few plants that will thrive in a smoky atmo-
Sphere. H. muitiflorus Jore-pleno is a double
variety oftener met with than the single form, and
produces large double yellow flowers of a hand-
some character. A variety named maximus, the
Great Perennial Single Sunflower, is an enormous-
growing variety, attaining the height of six to nine
feet, and producing immense golden-yellow flowers,
almost as large as those of the annual species.
Other useful species are H. decapetalus, H. occiden-
Zale, and H. orgyalis, but they are not nearly so much
‘grown as the forms of H. muitiflorus, which are
decidedly the best. H. rigidus, better Inown as
Harpalium rigidum, is one of the best of our autumn-
flowering perennials; the flowers are very large and
of a bright golden-yellow colour, with a striking
black disc. It grows about three feet in height,
flowers very fully, and formsa very attractive object.
It is a native of North America, and has roots
which spread about very much. Like all the peren-
nial Sunflowers, this does well in ordinary borders,
in which, from its rapidly-spreading habit, it will
require annual division.

The forms of H. multiflorus are being much grown
by gardeners, as they are found so useful for cutting
from for decorative purposes, and yellow flowers
being in much demand at the present time, their
growth is deserving of encouragement on this ground
also.

The Jerusalem Artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus) is
a Sunflower. Artichoke is a name which Diez de-
rives from the Arabic Ardischauki, “ Earth-thorn,”
and which was introduced with the plant by the
Moors of Spain. This particular plant is called
Artichoke from the flavour of its tubers, and Jeru-
salem, which has puzzled many, from the Italian
Girasole, “ Turn-sun,” that is, a sun that turns about.
Unlike the other Sunflowers, it very seldom blos-
soms; it will sometimes flower in this country,
after a short dry summer like that of 1884, when
several instances of its doing so are recorded.
There is not sufficient heat in our climate to mature
the seeds: but M. Vilmorin, of Paris, states in the
Bon Jardinier that he has obtained seeds and raised
several varieties. This species produces tubers in
the soil, and they are baked, roasted, boiled, and
served up with milk and butter, and in various
other ways.

It is found wild in Upper Canada and the United

States.

261

THE PINE-APPLE.

By Wituam Coreman,

CULTIVATION (continued).
‘Resting.—By the beginning of August, the ma-
jority of the plants will be firm, stocky and well
matured, with plenty of white, healthy roots, working
round the insides of the pots, and through the
drainage. The growing season, if they are to start
into fruit at the time we have named, will be nearly
over, and the next two months will be devoted toa
gradual reduction in the supply of heat and water.
By gradual it must be understood that the transition
from active growth to comparative rest must be so
steady as to prevent the possibility of a premature
check, which may lead to the most promising plants
throwing up their fruit in mid-winter, when, in the
case of Queens, the labour of the past season would
be thrown away. Therefore the supply of water to
the roots, and in the air of the house, must be regu-
lated by the state of the weather, and the condition of
the bed. If the chilly, foggy nights which charac-
terise the month of September prevail, the reduced
supply of water to the roots and in the atmosphere
must be given early in the day; plenty of air during
the hours of sunshine will then carry off superfluous
moisture, and an external covering of some kind,
while economising fire-heat, will, to a great extent,
prevent the condensation of moisture under the glass
at a time when drip will be most hurtful to the plants.
Unless the weather is very bright and fine in October,
no more water must be given to the roots; but if, on
examination, the lower part of the plunging-bed is
found to be at all dry, it will then be prudent to
water between the pots until the whole of the tan
is moderately moist, and capable of feeding instead
of robbing the roots during the season of rest.

By the end of October the bottom heat should be
brought down to about 75°, and the day and night
temperatures proportionally low—say, 65° as the mini-
mum, and 75° as the maximum—with air whenever
the sun raises the house to 70°. Through November
and December a further all-round reduction of 5°
may be made; but lower than thisit will not be safe
to go, unless the weather is very severe, when a fall
of a few degrees through the night, and on dark
days, will be preferable to sharp firing, which will
render a corresponding supply of moisture absolutely
necessary to counteract its parching influence. If all
has gone well, the plants will not require a drop of
water through December; neither must the fire-
heat, which is often necessary at this period, be so
severe as to rob the plants and pots of the stored-up
moisture, which will soon be again set in motion. To
counteract its influence on the roots, the watering of
the old tan may be repeated, and when it has thrown

262

off a little of the vapour, a quantity cast up with a
hand-fork round the sides and over the tops of the
pots will keep them quite safe until early in ‘the new
year, when they will be transferred to other quarters
as “ Fruiting Plants.”

Fruiting Plants.—Assuming that the set of
plants under treatment occupy the hip-roofed house
(Fig. 2), and that the lean-to (Fig. 1) is the struc-
ture into which they are to be taken for the comple-
tion of their course, in order to have the bed ready
for them by the first week in January, it will be ne-
cessary to go back to the beginning of December to
commence operations with the plunging material for
giving a retaining bottom heat. If leaves can be
obtained, well harvested and well worked, there is
something about them which places them before tan
in the estimation of many for swelling and finishing
off the fruit of the Pine. But this part of the subject
having been touched upon in a previous chapter, it is
only necessary to say the material, be it leaves or tan,
should be placed in the pit in time for the heat,
which invariably revives after disturbance, to settle
down to a temperature averaging from 84° to 90°,
when plunging may be commenced without further
delay. As the plants, which have been some.ten or
twelve weeks at rest, will now be divided into two
sections, the first to start into fruit without making
a growth, and the second to make a growth before
they start, and so form a succession, some discrimina-
tion and judgment will have to be brought to bear
upon the selection of the first set of plants.

First Section.—As a rule, plants having the
thickest stems, which have shown the greatest dis-
position to throw out suckers, and with a number of
narrow, sharply-pointed leaves in their centres, will
be found the most certain starters. All of them,
even when selected by an experienced person, may
not throw up their fruit at once; but the majority
will do so, and any that miss can be taken out, and
replaced with others from the second set, which,
contrary to expectations, may afterwards start with-
out making a growth. Tor very early work, and to
give a supply of ripe fruit in May and June, the time
when Pines are in the greatest demand, and as a
natural consequence of most value, imported fruit
being out of the market, Queens will be the least
likely to disappoint, as they are most sensitive, and
swell and ripen off their fruit quickly. A few plants
of other good summer kinds, as Rothschilds, Fairy
Queens, and the always excellent Smooth-leaved
Cayenne, may also be taken in for: growing fruit,
which will form a link between the first and second
batches, but Queens should form the majority.

Formerly it was the custom to tie up the leaves as

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

often as the plants were moved; but this barbarous
treatment has been given up by all good Pine-growers,
and very wisely too, as plants of any age, when
allowed to take their natural form of growth, cannot
be so treated without receiving considerable injury,
and when they arrive at the age of fruiters, with
short, stiff, inflexible leaves radiating from the
centre, the trouble of tying up is a considerable
addition to the labour of removal. When a sufficient
number of plants have been marked for removal, a
few of the lower leaves must be stripped from the .
stems, and all loose inert soil removed as they are
taken out of the bed, preparatory to top-dressing with
pieces of rough fibrous loam, which must be firmly
rammed round the collars to keep the plants steady,
and to prevent water from hanging in suspension
about the surface roots.

Plunging.—Having determined on the distance
the plants are to be placed apart—two feet to two
feet four inches will not be too much—let each plant
be plunged with the side which formerly grew to the
light again facing the sun. The depth in the bed
must be regulated by circumstances, created by the
quantity and condition of the plunging material :
for instance, if the heat is obtained from a heated
chamber entirely under control and there is no
danger of its rising much above 85°, the rims of the
pots at the back may be on a level with the tan,
as there will be no fear of burning; but if all the
heat is derived from tan or leaves, then loose or
shallow plunging will be the safest plan, until such
time as the heat is a little below 90°, when the.
plunging material may be pressed closely about the
pots. When it is borne in mind that all the valuble
roots are coiling round the insides of the pots, and
through the drainage, and that the most important,
in fact the most vital point will be their preservation.
in a fresh, healthy, and very shortly a most active
state, too much care and watchful attention cannot
be devoted to the regulation of bottom heat.

When all the plants have been plunged, they must.
be supplied with water of a stimulating nature ata
temperature of 80°, and in sufficient quantity to
moisten every particle of the soil. Atmospheric .
moisture in moderation at first (as too much will start
some of the plants into growth) must be provided by
damping the paths and walls, but not the surface of
the bed. Later on this may be done; but for the
present the excitement must be due to bottom heat,
and a moderate quantity of water about the house.

Monthly Treatment.—The temperature dur-
ing this first month may range from 60° at the
beginning to 65° at the end by night, and 65° to 70°
by day, when fire-heat is the only moving power.

THE PINE-APPLE.

On bright sunny days, which sometimes prevail in
January, the maximum may touch 80°, air being
given when the glass registers 76°.

February.—lf the past month has been bright:and |

fine, the plants may now have another watering with
weak guano-water, or diluted liquid manure, ata tem-
perature of 80°. Atmospheric moisture, still in mode-
ration, should be provided by damping the paths and
walls and filling the evaporating pans with diluted
liquid. When feeding Pine plants, it is a good plan
to vary the liquid as much as possible, where animal
as well .as artificial manures can be obtained.
Manure-waters of all kinds should be quite clear
when used. The night temperature may be steadily
raised from 65° at the beginning to 70° at the end
of the month, and that by day from 70° to 76°.
When the latter point is reached, give sufficient air
to allow a rise to 80° under the influence of sunshine.
Close early to economise fire-heat, and run down the
blinds at night. If the plants are satisfactory, some
of them will begin to show fruit by the end of the
month, when a little more water may be given with
advantage, and the surface of the bed syringed on
bright afternoons. If the bottom heat varies, take
steps to reduce or raise it to about 85°; but be careful
as to the disturbance of fermenting beds, as sun-heat
in March sometimes causes « sudden rise of several
degrees, which might be hurtful to the plants ata
time when all their energy is needed to force the
fruit well out of the foliage, and aid in the rapid
development which will take place during the next
two months.

March.—Farly in this month, all the plants which
have responded to the autumn rest will be throwing
up fruit, and suckers will be starting from the stems
of the Queens and other free kinds. As stock of these
is always plentiful, not more than two of the best
need be kept to grow on. All the others, as well as
the gills, which form just below the fruit, should be
removed as soon as they can be seen, otherwise they
will take away the strength which should be thrown
into the fruit.

As this is a very trying month, a portion of the
day often being very bright, with sharp piercing
winds, followed by cold, arid nights, the minimum
and maximum temperatures from fire-heat should,
not be much increased; but sun-heat must be
husbanded to the fullest extent, by closing in time
to run up to ‘90° for a short time, with atmospheric
moisture, which is best produced by syringing the
walls and floors and occasionally the surface of the
bed. Overhead syringing must not be indulged in
until after the flowers on all the pips have set.

Cross - fertilisation.—If cross-fertilisation is
contemplated, the time is now at hand, and early, .

263

spring-started plants will be found the best, as the
seeds will be ripened under the most favourable
conditions which this climate affords. Should the
month be unusually bright and dry, watering with
stimulating liquid must be more frequent; but of
two evils it is best to err on the side of dryness,
provided the soilis kept in a fairly moist growing
condition and atmospheric moisture is liberally
supplied. To counteract the rapid escape of heat
and moisture, the blinds should be let down
during the hours of darkness, when the front
brick ventilators may be opened to let in a chink
of fresh air.

April.Under the favourable influence of mild,
gleamy days, the night temperature should range
from 75° at banking time to 70° in the morning, and
the maximum from 80° to85° by day. Air must be
given at the apex when the thermometer touches
78°, and steadily increased to an extent that will
allow the mercury to rise to 85°. When it begins
to decline, reducing must also have timely attention,
as rapid forcing with plenty of solar heat and
moisture on fine afternoons is in every way prefer-
able to early firing to catch the night heats. Imme-
diately after the house is closed, the plants should
be regularly dewed overhead with water at a
temperature of 80°, and a little thrown into the
axils of the lower leaves will feed the stem-roots;
but the latter practice, while keeping them moist,
should not be carried to an extent that will load
them with water and so increase the size of the
crowns to the detriment of the fruit. As the latter
are now swelling fast, neat sticks firmly placed in
each pot and rising a little above the tops of the
crowns will be needed as supports to keep them
upright. In lean-to houses, the fruit is apt-to lean
with the plant to the south, when the crown gets
drawn out of the perpendicular.

May.—Any fruits that were not tied up last month
will now require attention, as nothing looks worse
than a crooked crown. When all have been tied up,
examine the beds; if dry, water between the pots,
using soot or lime-water where worms have found
an entrance. If free from these pests, clear diluted
liquid is preferable to pure water, as it throws off
ammonia at a time when stimulants in moderation are
constantly needed. If the fermenting material has
left the sides of the pots, replace it, set the pots level
and adda thin surfacing of tan or leaves. Gentle
stimulants at every watering will do good service,
until the most forward fruits have attained their
size, when root-feeding must be discontinued. Some
Pine-growers lay great stress on certain animal
manures, such as deer or sheep dung; but for all
round, general purposes there is nothing better than
weak solutions of guano, and the contents of the

264

ordinary liquid-manure tank, into which the drainage
from stables, cow-sheds, or the frame-ground is con-
veyed. These should be used alternately, as plants,
like animals, benefit by change of diet.

If the weather is genial and bright, the Pines will
now make very rapid progress, as the houses can
be ventilated early, and have a moderate supply
of air through the early part of the day, while the
declining sun will not be so hot as to delay closing
in the afternoon. As sun-heat with an abundance of
atmospheric moisture can then be bottled up and kept
for some hours before fires are needed, the tempe-
rature may range about 90° with perfect safety ;
indeed, where time is an object, it is no uncommon
thing to run Pine-stoves up to 100° on bright sunny
afternoons in May.

June.—If any of the fruit commenced colouring at
the end of last month, the proper course would have
been to remove them toa drier house to ripen up ; but
as the majority would not be so far advanced, June
may be taken as the great ripening month. Therefore,
when the lower tips of the fruit assume a lighter
colour, the flavour must have full -consideration, as
fine Pines deficient in flavour are of little value.
This important feature can be obtained in two ways,
either of which must be decided upon by the purpose
for which the fruit has been grown. If for an early
market, then simultaneous maturity, or what is
termed a glut, being no impediment, the whole house
may be treated to more air with plenty of heat, and
less moisture both in the atmosphere and the soil.
If, on the other hand, the Pines are wanted for pri-
vate use, then the treatment, though practically the
same in its application, must be different in its result,
as a constant supply of ripe fruit extending over the
longest possible period will be the object held in
view. To secure this, and to give late starters, and
the few later kinds, which were recommended for
forming the connecting link, the best possible treat-
ment, all the early Queens should be lifted out
“bodily as they begin to change, and placed in a dry,
light, airy house, where they can have the benefit of
a partially-spent bed for plunging them in; thus
doing away with the necessity of watering, and
securing sufficient heat to avoid a check from cold.
Another advantage which attends the early removal
of ripening fruit from « hot, moist stove, is the
increased length of time which can be devoted to
the ripening process, and the superior condition of
fruit so ripened for keeping after it is fit for use.

Retarding and Keeping the Fruit.—In the
absence of a suitable compartment for this purpose,
a Vinery from which ripe Grapes are being cut
answers very well, as partial shade from the Vines
protects the bright golden fruit from the direct rays

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

of the sun, and the free circulation of dry warm air,
so essential to the Grapes, is just what is needed for
ripening and retarding as well as giving high flavour
to the Pines.

When the season is further advanced, and settled
summer weather has set in, it will be no longer
necessary to use a house for retarding purposes, as
Pines can be ripened up and kept in an airy Grape-
room, where they will remain in good condition for
several weeks. In this way Pines can frequently be
kept a month or six weeks longer than under the
best management in the fruiting-house.

Second Section of Plants.—After the first
set of plants were drawn for starting in January,
those left behind, as being the least likely to start
without first making a growth, should be re-arranged
in the old bed, where they can be kept quiet during
the succeeding two months. In the meantime, a span-
roofed house being at command, preparations should
at once be taken in hand for getting the fermenting
material well worked and settled down into a steady
bottom heat of 85° to 90° ready for their reception
by the end of February. As was anticipated, a
portion of these plants will make a growth before
they start, and so prolong the supply, by producing
the finest Queens of the season, while the Cayennes
and Rothschilds will carry it on from the end of May
until the beginning of December. The preparation
of the plants and their treatment will, in almost every
particular, be precisely the same as that recommended
for the first section. They will, however, as may be
readily understood, require less fire-heat, more air
and atmospheric moisture through the early stages,
and a fair proportion of them being Cayennes and
Rothschilds, two varieties which always take more
water than Queens, a more liberal supply of this
element in a stimulating form will also be necessary.

Should any of these plants miss fruiting and con-
tinue growing, in defiance of all the checks that may
be brought to bear upon them, the best plan is not to
throw them away, in conformity with an old custom,
but to keep them on the high-and-dry principle until
a newly-prepared plunging-pit, with a bottom heat of
90°, has been made ready for the reception of a set
of suckers or successions, and to cut them off at the
base close to the soil. With one stroke of the kmife
they will again be reduced to the condition of very
large suckers, ready for potting and treating in the
usual way, except that the pots should be from nine
to ten inches in diameter, as they will not receive
or require another shift into a larger size. Having
stripped off a few of the lower leaves, they should be
firmly potted in rough fibrous loam, and plunged up
to the rims in the hottest part of the bed, where they
can be pretty closely shaded from bright sunshine,

THE PINE-APPLE.

and havea slight syringing daily until they are fairly
rooted. When treated in this way, every particle of
the soil being fresh and sweet, they very soon throw
out an abundance of active roots, and become stout,
vigorous plants, capable of finishing excellent fruit
within a few months, as the check causes every one
of them to “show” in a few weeks after the cutting
down.

Summer Suckers.— In order to completely dis-
pose of the first set of plants, which have been carried
on through the different stages of their growth, from
the sucker to the ripe fruit, it may not be out of place
to return to the fruiting-house, where they were left
standing as stools, with one or two suckers on each,
ready for detachment. The manipulation and pot-
ting of suckers having been discussed, it is only ne-
cessary to say that the general move forward to fill up
the house they have occupied will make room in the
sucker-pit for their reception, and, as the majority
of them will be large and well ripened at the base,
they will form the first batch for growing on through
the winter. and shifting into truiting-pots early in
the spring. When all the best of the suckers have
been taken off and potted, the shy kinds, with which
the reader is now well acquainted, will require special
treatment to set the latent or dormant buds in mo-
tion, as well as to bring forward any small suckers
on the Cayennes, which may be considered too small
for placing in single pots. With some it is the prac-
tice to water the old stools thoroughly, and plunge
them in a strong bottom heat to force the growths
forward; but space at command, as a rule, being
limited, it is in several ways advantageous to shake
them out, and re-pot in smaller pots, as the fruiting-
sized pots are then set at liberty. The old roots are
stimulated by being placed in new compost ; feeding
liquid can be more frequently supplied, and a great
number of stools can be plunged with more ferment-
ing material between them than will be the case
when the large, unwieldy fruiting-pots are retained.

Having shown that the first set of plants, which
ripen their fruit in May and June, furnish suckers
that will supply the earliest fruiters twenty months
later, it follows that the second batch, which ripen
their fruit through August and September, will give
the suckers that will succeed them. But as Queens
cannot be had in first-rate condition through the
winter months, other kinds, of which little has yet
been said, must be brought forward, for giving the
late winter and early spring supply.

Winter and Spring Pines.—Reference to the
descriptive list of varieties will show that the Smooth
Cayenne, Black Jamaica, Lord Carington, Beatrice
Lambton, and Rothschild are considered suitable

265

kinds for giving a supply of winter and spring fruit ;
but the last-named being better adapted for autumn
and early winter use, and Beatrice Lambton being
a very large variety, more suitable for special re-
quirements than general private use, the first three
stand unrivalled for giving high-class Pines, which
are always good, and can be kept for a considerable
time after they are ripe. Two sets of these should
be grown where space admits, and, to treat them pro-
perly, separate compartments should be used; the
warmest and driest being devoted to the Jamaicas
and Caringtons, the coolest and most airy to the
Cayennes.

It is now an acknowledged fact that houses of
moderate dimensions are preferable to large ones
for the growth of Pines in general, and for winter
fruit in particular. The facilities afforded by small
houses or compartments for covering up the glass at
night must not be reckoned amongst the smallest
advantages gained by keeping the different hinds
of winter Pines under distinct and, as a matter
of course, proper treatment. Therefore, assuming
that the lean-to house, which is better than the full-
span roof for winter culture, is divided into two
equal parts, with an abundance of piping for giving
top and bottom heat, the pits should be prepared
for the successions—that is, the full-sized autumn-
rooted suckers, by the time the general stock is ready
for shifting into fruiting-pots in February. No diffi-
culty is experienced in getting a sufficient number of -
Jamaica suckers for potting up in August; but with
the always shy Cayenne matters stand in a more un-
favourable light, consequently propagation from dor-
mant eyes, crowns, and gills may have been going on
for a year or two before plants raised from such
small pieces can be considered large enough to be
treated as good suckers in the autumn. Should this
be the case, strong fruiting plants, carrying perhaps
one or two really good suckers, may be divested in
October before the fruit is ripe. But instead of the
stock so obtained being kept cool and dry through
the winter months, a compact span-roof pit (Fig. 5),
some five degrees warmer than the general sucker-
pit, will be found suitable for growing them steadily
on in six-inch pots until they are well rooted and fit
for shifting with the others in February, or it may be
early in March. Late suckers never root so quickly
and freely as those usually taken in September, and
shifting before they are ready is quite as bad as
allowing the balls to become matted.

With the bottom heat standing at 85°, a sufficient
number must be selected, and potted precisely as
the Queens —the Jamaicas into ten-inch and the
Cayennes into twelve-inch pots, the two sizes in
which they will remain until the fruit is ripe.
Their treatment through the spring will not differ

266

from that recommended for Queens; but they will
require a little more room after the beds have been
renovated in the autumn, and the Cayennes all
through their treatment will take more water and
atmospheric moisture than would be good for Queens
and Jamaicas. Having elevated all the plants well
up to the light, they must have as much water and
moisture as will keep them steadily progressing
through the winter. To secure this, the bottom heat
should range from 75° in November to 80° by the
end of January, and that of the house-from 60° at
night to 70° by day. Toeconomise fire and husband
moisture, so very important in the maintenance of
a humid, growing atmosphere, the covering must not
be neglected.

In twelve months from the time the suckers were
potted, they will be large enough for fruiting; but
as this cannot be secured without a spring growth,
give more top and bottom heat through the early
months, followed by a decided check to the Jamaicas
in June, and a little drier treatment to the Cayennes ;
nearly all the plants will be ready to throw up from
July to the end of September.

It invariably happens that the selection of a given
number of suckers for a special purpose leaves a
weaker set behind, and as they will require more
time than the first lot to grow into a fruiting state,
the one-shift system is not so well adapted to their
culture. Many of these plants having been raised
from dormant buds and gills of the preceding spring,
the pots in which they are wintered will not exceed
five inches in diameter; and, although the top and
bottomi heats have been favourable to constant pro-
gress, the pots used for the February shift cannot
well exceed eight inches in diameter. In these,
constantly plunged in a brisk bottom heat of 80°,
with their heads close to the glass in the span-roof
pit, they soon fill the small stratum of soil with roots,
and are fit for the final shift into ten to eleven-inch
pots, which are quite large enough for winter-fruiting
Cayennes and Jamaicas, by the end of April. The
object being to grow this set of plants from the
sucker to the fruit without a check, a close, compact
pit, with full command of top and bottom heat, must
be available, otherwise the attempt to swell the fruit
through the winter months will end in disappoint-
ment, and the entire loss of a number of plants, to
which a.great deal of time and patience has been de-
voted. Unless the young practitioner has a fair stock
of plants to fall back upon, his attempt at starting
Pines after September should be confined to a few
Jamaicas and Caringtons at first, as there is no diffi-
culty in obtaining suckers of these varieties, and
they can be induced to swell off excellent fruit in
nine-inch pots, provided they are well fed when water
in winter is required.

CASSELL’S PUPULAR GARDENING.

From the foregoing remarks on winter Pines, it
will be seen that the only way in which their man-
agement differs from that of summer fruiters consists
in the maintenance of conditions, as regards heat and
moisture, favourable to steady growth through the
winter months, when Queens are in a comparative
state of rest.

The Open-bed System.—We are indebted
to Mr. Mills, at one time gardener at Gunnersbury,
for bringing into prominence the planting - out
system (as it is generally called), and there are a
few places in this country where it is now prac-
tised, the most successful being the Royal Gar-
dens, Frogmore, where, as in other large estab-
lishments, the Queens and tender varieties are still
grown in pots. The Smooth-leaved Cayenne, which
seems to do the best, can be grown to great perfection
on this principle, but not better than a number of
advocates of the pot system can produce them; and
as plants in pots are easily moved from place to place,
either to be pushed forward or retarded, cultivators

- having limited space at command will find that the

planting-out system is not the best for giving a con-
tinuous and steady supply of ripe fruit. The usual
method of growing the Smooth-leaved Cayenne out
of pots is over hot-water pipes placed in chambers or
dry rubble. The tank system is not so well adapted,
as the moisture constantly rising from the open
gutters in course of time affects the soil, and the
roots do not seem to take hold of the lower stratum,
which, under ordinary conditions, is considered the
best. At Frogmore bottom heat is obtained from a
bed of fermenting Oak-leaves, the best of all mediums
for forcing vigorous growth; and it is, doubtless,
to the use of this material in an immense decaying
body that the wonderful luxuriance and colour of the
plants must be attributed. The suckers, as may be
supposed, are large and good when they are taken off
and planted over the beds of rich fermenting leaves
in the sucker-pit. In due course they are removed
to the succession or fruiting-pit with large forks,
where they are placed in rows from two to three feet
apart, and earthed up with large, rough, turfy pieces
of loam and peat, leaving them standing in ridges a
foot or so in height.

When passing through the gardens at Gunnersbury
many years ago, the process of shifting the succession
plants forward from one pit to another was going on.
Large flakes of half-decayed leaves were hanging
from the roots, which, despite the greatest care, natu-
rally reccived a check, and were thus predisposed
to form their embryo fruit, apparently simulta-
neously, judging from the equal size of the Pines
then swelling off in another house. Since that time
the planting-out system has made some progress ;

THE PINE-APPLE,

but there can be little doubt that this drawback to
the otherwise simple mode of growing Pines has kept
it in check even in large places, where a constant
supply of goud fruit is of the first importance. Some
cultivators have modified the system by growing
young stock in pots, and turning them out into the
beds when they would otherwise receive their final
shift into fruiting-pots; but it is questionable if the
space gained by growing the plants closer together
through the first season will compensate for the un-
certainty which attends their fruiting, and the possi-
pility of the majority of the Pines becoming ripe at
one time.

In order to place the plants in the best condition
for producing large fruit, pots should be dispensed
with altogether, as it very often happens that the bed
is not ready for their reception before they become
pot-bound, when one of two things takes place after
they are turned out—either many of the roots perish,
and the plants are reduced to the condition of suckers,
or some of them start prematurely into fruit, and
become useless. Therefore, to avoid these mishaps,
the Pine-grower whose space is limited should have
a good pit, large enough to hold as many young
plants as will keep the fruiting-house furnished
with successions. If bottom-heat pipes do not exist,
then fermenting leaves firmly trodden will produce a
genial bottom heat, over which suckers will soon form
roots and grow on firm and stocky, till the fruiting-
house can be properly prepared for their reception.
To insure a constant bottom heat of 80°, hot-water
pipes should be Jaid in a chamber, or in dry rubble,
with space for a foot of leaves and the soil, to raise
the level to within eighteen inches of the glass in
front, and from three to four feet at the back of
the pit.

The planting-out system may be commenced at
any season, provided the plants can be thoroughly
established before the dead months set in. Early
spring is, however, the best, as newly harvested
leaves are then at hand, and autumn-rooted suckers
are in good condition for moving, with every chance
of their taking to the new compost, and starting
away at once. When the fruiting-pit has been pre-
pared, and the compost, similar to that recommended
for pot culture, is ready, it should be placed loosely
in ridges running across the pit to get properly
warmed, turned, and aérated, when planting may be
proceeded with in the following manner. The best
variety, as has been stated, being the Cayenne, the
largest plants should be placed in a row, two feet
six inches apart, along the back, with a few pieces of
rough turf under the balls to raise them to the
proper level, and firmly packed with compost, so as to
leave a deep furrow between the plants from back to
front, Then will follow the second row, two feet

267 -

from the first, and so on until the pit is full. After
planting, the house should be kept close and the at-
mosphere well supplied with moisture tor a few days,
when ordinary treatment as to air, heat, and slight
shading for an hour or two or bright days will follow.
If the soil is in nice friable condition, no water must
be given to the roots until they have started fairly
into growth; neither must the plants have more
than an occasional slight dewing over with the
syringe, as the new leaves and soil will give off an
abundance of moisture for a considerable time. If
larger plants from pots are used, the balls should be
slightly crushed, and the roots carefully unwound, so
as to bring them into immediate -contact with the
new soil, and to prevent the old compost forming a
hard, dry substance, impervious to water during the
summer.

When Pines are turned out into warm ridges
of fresh fibrous turf, it is astonishing how quickly
the white roots begin to force their way to the
sides, and the broad short leaves spread out to
catch every ray of sunshine and light, giving them
quite a distinct character as compared. with the same
varieties when confined to pots. When once estab-
lished, the treatment as to heat, air, and moisture
will be the same as for plants in pots, with perhaps
a little more solar heat to penetrate the ridges after
the pit is closed for the day. When watering is
found necessary, it should be liberally supplied, and.
great care should be observed in the use of the
syringe, otherwise the large quantity of soil will hold
more water in suspension than is good for Pines. If
the plants are intended to start into fruit early in
the spring, no water must be given after September,
and the atmosphere must be kept drier than would be
considered safe for plants resting in pots; but the
Cayenne being more valuable as a succession to early
Queens, by modifying the winter treatment, and
fully developing the root system, much finer fruit
will be obtained from plants which are allowed to
grow themselves into a fruiting condition.

Renovation of the Bed.—When hot-water
pipes are found sufficient to keep up the proper
degree of bottom heat, it is not considered necessary
to turn out the pit and replenish the bed every year,
as plants can be taken out after the fruit is cut and
replaced with others from ihe reserve, which will, of
course, have a little fresh soil given to them at the
time of planting. In course of time the soil and
leaves get too far away from the glass, the plants
become irregular, and the general appearance of the
house suggests the propriety of making a new start
with everything fresh and clean. The best period for
this is immediately after a large preportion of the
plants have finished their fruit, and there are but fev

268

that have not started on the way. If these are care-
fully lifted, and replaced in the back row when the
bed has been renovated, they will start as freely as
cut-over pot plants that miss fruiting. At places
like Frogmore, where leaves are the principal, if not
the entire, source of bottom heat, annual renovation
is a necessity, which comes round as regularly as the
crops of fine Pines are cut from the plants; and if
those who have not embarked in the planting-out
system are to judge from results, the question will
undoubtedly be decided in favour of the extensive
use of Oak-leaves, both for giving bottom heat and
swelling off the fruit.

From the preceding pages it must not be supposed
that the Smooth-leaved Cayenne is the only Pine
which does well when planted out. Its free, hardy
constitution undoubtedly places it at the head of the
list ; but other varieties, including the Queen, can be
equally well grown, as was proved by the late Mr.
Fleming, of Trentham, who produced Queens quite
as remarkable for size and quality as the finest
Cayennes that have yet been grown. And others
have frequently grown them in quantities averaging
over six pounds each, in pure loam, of a calcareous
nature, which many would consider too heavy for
Pines. This particular soil was obtained from a
paddock in which ewes and lambs are kept in the
spring, and was placed over leaves and hot-water
pipes in a succession pit, where the top heat is barely
sufficient to keep Cucumbers alive throughout the
winter months.

There are other systems, including the Meudon,
which at one time brought the French growers into
prominence, and stimulated our own countrymen
into action. But it isnot too much to say that the
supreme excellence of the produce of our Pine-stoves
of the present day will enable British growers to
challenge any country in the world to which the king
of fruits is not indigenous.

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD
GARDENING.

ALPINE PLANTS.
By Epwarp W. Banger, F.R.H.S.

List of Plants.—In the following list the
plants which require least skill to grow them suc-
cessfully are distinguished by an asterisk (*); the
others will be found to require some special treat-
ment as to soil, situation, &c., and are consequently
a little more difficult to grow successfully. There
are, however, very few of the plants named which
will not thrive admirably if the directions given are
carefully followed.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

*Acena microphylla (Rosy-spined Aczna).—A
minute-leaved, very dwarf, trailing plant. It pro-
duces a number of insignificant flowers in round
heads. As the flowers fade the sepals elongate into
bright rosy spines, which are persistent and pretty,
and render the plant very conspicuous for several
months. Should be planted in an exposed position
away from larger plants. It blooms from June to
August and sometimes later; is easily propagated
by division; thrives in any good soil, but should
be well supplied with moisture during the summer
months. This plant is sometimes known as 4.
Nove Zealandia. A native of New Zealand.

*Alyssum saxatile (Yellow Alyssum).—A most
valuable carly-flowering plant, producing an abun-
dance of bright yellow flowers. Will grow in almost
any soil and position, but a dry exposed part of the
rockery suits it best. Readily propagated by cut-
tings or from seed. A very dwarf variety is known
as 4. s. compactum. Native of Southern Russia.

Andromeda tetragona (Square-stemmed Andromeda).
—A very distinct and choice little plant, the correct
name of which is Cassiope tetragona, growing from
six to eight inches high, bearing pure white bell-
shaped flowers in April and May. Should be grown
in sandy peat kept very moist during the summer.
Propagated by careful division of the roots in spring.
Native of Northern Europe.

Androsace carnea (Rosy Androsace).—A lovely
alpine with rosy flowers, which may be grown with
only moderate care provided it be supplied with
plenty of water during the summer, and is planted
in a peaty soil mixed with sandy loam. Propagated
from offsets and seeds. European Alps.

Androsace Chamejasme (Rock Jasmine).—A most
desirable plant for the choice rockery. Should be
grown in a fully-exposed position where there is
plenty of root-room and the soil is a good sandy
loam. The surface of the soil should be covered
with nodules of sandstone to prevent too rapid
evaporation of moisture. Plenty of water must be
given during the growing months. Propagated by
division. A native of the Enropean Alps.

Androsace lanuginosa (Himalayan Androsace).—-
This plant.is so good that a sheltered position on the
rockery should be provided for it, and duplicate
plants in pots preserved in the cold frame during the
winter months. It should be planted at the edge of
a rock over the face of which it may trail. Soil,
light and well drained. During growth plenty of
water should be supplied. A little extra care and
trouble bestowed upon it will secure an ample
reward, Propagated by cuttings of the current
growth. A native of the Himalayas. :

Androsace sarmentosa (Bushy Androsace).—A bean-
tiful plant, forming dense silvery-grey rosettes, with

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING. £69

rapidly-spreading stoloniferous runners. Flowers
shaded rosy-pink ; soil peaty loam, though we have
it thriving in ordinary garden soil with which plenty
of leaf-mould is intermingled. Propagated by cut-
tings. From the Himalayas.

*dnemone apennina (Apennine Wind-flower).—An
easily-grown, lovely plant, quite hardy, producing
beautiful bright blue flowers. Suitable for rock-
work or the mixed border. Flowers in spring.
Is easily increased by division. A native of the
Apennines.

“Anemone blanda (Winter Wind-flower).—Much
like -1. apennina, but a deeper blue; flowers earlier,
and is, if possible, hardier. Deserves to be planted
extensively. Will grow in any well-drained, good
soil on rockwork or in borders. Propagated by di-
vision when at rest. A native of Greece.

* fnemone fulgens (Scarlet Wind-flower).—A plant
which blooms very early. The flowers are a most
brilliant scarlet, and last a long time when cut.
Suitable for beds, borders, and rockwork, and wil!
grow in any good, rich soil. Should be kept moist
when growing. Propagated by division.and seeds.
A native of Southern Europe. It is plentiful in
some parts of France.

* Anemone nemorosa (Wood Anemone).—One of our
loveliest native plants. Besides the more plentiful
single varicty, there is a handsome double one, the
flowers of which are more durable than the single
variety, and the same colour; also a rose-coloured
double (rudre ff. pl.) and a single blue one (cerlea).
Allare spring bloomers, and are fitting tenants of
the choicest rockery. Soil, a strongish loam, in a
somewhat shady position. The double forms may
be easily propagated by division of the tubers when
the plant is at rest after the foliage has died down.

Anemone palmata (Palmated Wind - flower).— A
plant with leaves somewhat like a Cyclamen, pro-
ducing yellow flowers. Must be grown on a level
part of the rockery, where it will have room to
spread, which it will do in good peaty loam, if not
overrun by more rapidly-growing plants. It is so
good as to be deserving of a little extra care and
attention. A white form of this Anemone is offered
in some catalogues. Can be propagated by division
of the roots and by seeds. A native of the shores of
the Mediterranean.

* Anemone Pulsatilla (Pasque Flower).—A fine,
long-cultivated native plant, which blooms about
Easter. The ordinary kind has purplish flowers,
but there are several other kinds in cultivation.
Does well in a dry, chalky soil, but may be grown
successfully in almost any situation where it has a
full exposure. Propagated chiefly by division.

Anemone ranunculoides (Yellow Wood Anemone).
—Shkeuld be grown in warm, well-drained situations.

Flowers yellow, in spring. Propagated by division
and seeds. Native of Southern Europe.

* Antennaria dioica (Mountain Cudweed).—A
charming plant, which, from the silvery colour of
the leaves, invariably forms a pretty contrast with
green-leaved Alpines. Grows in neat tufts and makes
a good edging. Ordinary soil; flowers in early sum-
mer. Easily propagated by division. A native plant.

* Antennaria tomentosa (Snow Plant).—A silvery-
leaved, dwarf, spreading plant of first-rate quality ;
grown. for its foliage effects, the flowers not being
attractive. Should be grown in well-drained sandy
loam. Propagated by division. A native of the
Recky Mountains.

-Aquilegia cwrulea (Rocky Mountain Columbine).—
One of the loveliest flowers grown in our gardens.
They are large, blue and white, and very long-
spurred. Grows nine to twelve inches high; is not
particular about soil, but thrives best in fairly rich
well-drained loam. Blooms in May and June,
sometimes later. Easily raised from seeds. <A
native of the Rocky Mountains.

* lrenaria balearica (Balearic Sandwort).—One of
the dwarfest-growing plants we possess. The leaves
are very minute, and the habit of the plant is to
densely spread like a tiny Moss. Planted close to
stone, it rapidly attaches itself to it, and will soon
cover a considerable space. The flowers are pure
white stars lifted a little above the leaves. A gem
of the loveliest kind, which deserves a place on
every rockery. Should be fully exposed and pro-
tected from the visitation of larger-leaved plants.
Easily propagated by divisions pressed firmly in the
soil. It comes to us from Corsica.

* Lisperula odorata (Sweet Woodruff).— One of our
native plants, which may properly find a place on
the rougher and larger rockeries. Its leaves smell
like sweet hay, and the flowers, which are plentiful,
are of the purest white, and appear throughout May.
Propagated by division.

* Lister alpinus (Alpine Starwort).—Most Asters
grow too tall for the rockery, but this kind rarely
exceeds six to nine inches in height. The flowers
are lavender-blue in colour, of large size, and are
produced early in the summer. Ordinary garden
soil. Propagated by division. Native of the Alps.

* Aubrietia deltoidea (Three-angled Aubrietia).—A
round, spreading, tufted plant, producing abundance
of flowers of a pleasing shade of purple, early in
spring. Particularly adapted for positions where it
can hang over a faceof rockwork. -1. Campbellie
is very bright in colour. Other good kinds are -1.
grandiflora and 1. greca, A. purpurea variegata has
nicely variegated leaves. Thrives in any kind of
soil. Propagated by seeds and division. Native of
the Levant, Greece, Xc.

270

*Bulbocodium vernum (Spring-blooming Saffron) .—
A very early—January to March—blooming, bulbous
plant, when planted in dryish, sheltered, sunny posi-
tions. Good sandy loam suits it admirably. Divi-
sion of the bulbs every two or three years in July.
A native of South and East Europe.

Calandrinia umbellata (Umbel - flowered Calan-
drinia).—Bears most brilliantly coloured flowers—
magenta-crimson. The plant is of dwarf growth,
easily raised from seeds, which should be sown in
pots or where they are to remain. Thrives best in
fully-exposod situations facing south. Soil, sandy
peat. A native of Chili.

* Campanulas (Bell-flowers).—Many members of
this family will be favourites with almost every one.
The kinds named below are the gems of the Bell-
flowers of dwarf growth. The cultivation of all of
them is extremely easy, and they can nearly all be
easily propagated by division, cuttings, and seeds.
Good ordinary garden soil will be found to suit
most of them when the drainage is good and the
texture of the soil open.

* 1. Campanula carpatica (Carpathian Bell-flower).
—Moderately dwarf, averaging eight inches high,
and bearing comparatively large, bluish flowers.
Commences blooming early in summer. The white
variety (C. C. alba) is worth growing for contrast of
colour. Native of the Carpathian Mountains,

2. Campanula fragilis (Fragile Bell-flower).—This
is a true Hairbell of dainty growth, with a name
which most propagators know to have been most
judiciously bestowed, and which suggests careful
handling. The flowers are a pale blue, somewhat
open in form. It is a very dwarf grower and
should never be placed near rapidly growing plants.
The best situation for it is in a warm, sheltered
crevice, well drained, the soil being decidedly light
in texture. The best way to propagate it is by cut-
tings in spring. It is a native of Southern Italy,
which will suggest that it is somewhat tender, and
requires a little more care for its protection than is
usually bestowed. This is a plant of which dupli-
cates should always find a place in the winter pro-
tected frame.

3. Campanula Garganica (gargano Hairbell).—A
sweet little plant, producing an abundance of pale
blue flowers. Its habit of growth is prostrate, and it
should be planted in such positions as will make the
most of this characteristic. Its proper position is
alongside plants of dwarf growth fully exposed on a
rocky surface, in a crevice of which it will thrive
and delight every one. Easily propagated by seeds,
cuttings, and division. Soil, rich and good. Native
of Italy.

4. Campanula hederacea (Ivy-leaved Bell-flower).
~This is one of the most charming of our na-

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

tive plants. We have seen it thriving on a damp
lawn in Warwickshire, in front of the ‘“ Cheverel
Manor” of one of George Eliot’s prettiest tales; in
the Fairy Glen near Llanrwst; and in a damp lane
near Bettws-y-coed. Its correct botanical name is
Wahlenbergia hederacea. It is a charming little plant,
but to ensure its successful growth there must be an
abundance of moisture, and the only place where it
may be expected to thrive is the artificial bog. It may
be readily divided, and will grow freely if provided
with the natural conditions of its native habitat. Its
merits will well repay the trouble necessary for its
successful cultivation.

*5. Campanula Hendersoni (Henderson’s Bell-flower).
—This is a plant growing to a height of twelve
inches or more, but it is so floriferous and beauti-
ful that in the rougher parts of the rockery it
may well find a place. Its salver-shaped blooms
are produced profusely; their colour is a bluish-
purple; and it is a plant of decided merit, easily
grown.

* 6. Campanula pulla (Violet Bell-flower).—A some-
what rare species, which should be preserved in the
reserved frame we have already referred to. It is
somewhat delicate in constitution in our climate, and
should be placed in a most favoured situation, but its
merits will repay all these attentions. Soil, sandy
peat. Increased by division. A native of the
Tyrol and elsewhere.

* 7. Campanula pumila (Dwarf Bell- flower). —
This is also known as the Tufted Bell-flower, or
Campanula cespitosa. Nothing can be grown more
easily or be propagated with less trouble, as every
scrap of it may be easily grown into a plant; at the
same time, nothing in our gardens is more likely
to afford pleasure. It has two varieties, the white
and the blue, and both are equally hardy. It grows
only some four inches high, spreads rapidly, blooms
profusely ; thrives best in a somewhat moist position,
though it would be difficult to name a spot where it
would fail to thrive. A native of the European Alps
and elsewhere. This should find a place in every
garden.

8. Campanula Raineri (Rainer’s Bell-flower).—A
rare plant, but as we find it named in most of the
best lists of Alpines now offered for sale at a mode-
rate price, we unhesitatingly recommend it. It is
a dwarf plant of great excellence. It relishes good
soil and a sunny position. It comes from the Swiss
and Italian Alps.

*9. Campanula rotundifolia (Round-leaved Hair-
bell).—This is our native Harebell, or Hairbell,
whichever is the proper name. Every one knows
it, and no one disputes its charms. It is named
here for the purpose of recommending the white
variety, which is fit for any position on the choicest

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING.

rockery. It is as hardy as a weed ; can be propa-
gated by division most easily.

* 10. Campanula turbinata (Vase Bell-tlower).—
Its name suggests its shape, which is that of a
shallow, open, cup-shaped vase. It is very hardy,
dwarf in habit, obtainable in two or three colours,
and not at all particular in its requirements. The
flowers are large and freely produced. A native of
‘Transylvania.

11. Campanula Waldsteiniana (Waldstein’s Bell-
flower).—This is another of the very dwarf Cam-
panulus deserving a place on every select rockery. It
produces ar immense number of bluish-lilac flowers.
Soil, sandy loam, intermixed with a little leaf-mould.
Situation exposed, sunny, and well-drained ; propa-
gated by division with care, but most easily by
cuttings in spring in a gentle hot-bed. A native of
Hungary.

* 12. Campanula Zoysii (Zoyse’s Bell-flower).—A
charming tufted plant, the flowering-stems of which
rarely exceed two to three inches high. The flowers
are azure-blue, of comparatively large size. Thrives
best on fully-exposed spots in sandy loam. A native
of Carinthia.

*Cerastium alpinum (Alpine Cerast).—A native
plant, pretty abundant in some parts of Scotland,
dwurf-growing, rather striking in appearance, and
producing large white flowers in summer. Propa-
gated from seeds, or by cuttings and division.

= Cheiranthus alpinus (Alpine Wall-flower).—Too
well known to require any description. A very use-
ful early-blooming plant, producing an abundance
of bright yellow flowers. Ordinary soil. Propagated
by cuttings. A native of the European Alps.

* Cheiranthus Marshalli (Marshall’s Wall-flower).—
This hybrid is worth growing in every garden. Its
flowers are of a deep orange-yellow colour, and are
produced plentifully in May and June. The plant
is from eight to twelve inches in height, Will grow
in dry situations, though it is not at all particular as
to situation. Ordinary garden soil. Its supposed
parents were the perennial C. alpinus or C. ochroleucus,
and the brilliant orange-flowered annual Erysimum
Peroffskianum.

* Chionodora Lucilie (Glory of the Snow).—This
charming bulbous plant was introduced in 1877 by
Mr. George Maw. It is perfectly hardy, producing
flowers much like the blue Nemophila in April and
May. It should find a place in every garden. It is
admirably adapted for growing in pots in a cold
frame, where the flowers are even more beautiful
than those grown out of doors. It thrives in any
good soil, though the addition of a little peat or leaf-
mould to ordinary loam seems to yield the best
results. It was introduced from mountainous
elevations, 3,000 to 4,009 feet high, near Smyrna.

271

* Colchicum autumnale (Autumnal Crocus).—The
popular name is misleading, as it is not a Crocus,
though its flower is much like one. A hardy native
plant, blooming in September and October. Will
grow anywhere, but does best in a moderately shady
spot. It is usually found growing wild in moist
meadows. Should not be disturbed oftener than
every three years. There are single and double
varieties, purple and white in both cases.

* Colchicum variegatum (Chequered Meadow Saf-
fron).—The segments of the corolla are beautifully
chequered with white and rosy-purple. Sandy loam
of good quality, and in 4 warm situation, having a
southern aspect. It flowers in the autumn. A native
of Greece.

* Convallaria majalis (Lily of the Valley).—
Although this. deservedly popular plant is usually
grown in beds, it will be found an admirable plant
for moist and shady positions on the rockery. By
planting in various aspects the flowering period may
be considerably extended. Soil, sandy loam and
leaf-mould, well enriched with cow-dung. It grows
wild in much abundance in some parts of England,
and almost always in woods. Propagated by separa-
tion of the crowns. A very much finer variety than
our native one (the “ Berlin’’) is grown in Germany,
whence it is imported in large quantities for forcing
by our florists.

Cornus canadensis (Canadian Cornel).— A miniature
shrub, growing from six to eight inches high, yield-
ing an abundance of pleasing flowers. Jt is most
suitable for the damper portions of the rockery.
In a light peaty soil, with plenty of sand inter-
mingled, it will be sure to thrive, provided plenty
of moisture be present. It flowers from June to
October. A native of North America. We have
a native Cornel (C. suecica), often confounded with
canadensis, not uncommon in Scotland, which is not
undeserving of a place among dwarf-growing bog
plants.

Crassula alpestris (Alpine Crassula).—A creeping,
somewhat branched plant, bearing white wax-like
flowers in terminal clusters. It is a plant of re-
cent introduction, which has proved hardy at Kew,
though coming from the Cape of Good Hope.
Blooms throughout the summer. Should be planted
in a dry open position on the sunniest part of the
rockery.

* Crocuses.—Of this genus there is scarcely one
unsuitable for the rockery. Many species are at
present botanical rarities. Of these it will scarcely
be necessary to take any notice in this select list of
Alpines, except to say that the cultivation suitable to
one is, generally speaking, suitable to all. We shall
mention only such as are likely to prove useful on
the open-air rockery, and shall make no mention of

272

such as bloom during the depth of winter. These
are for the most part quite hardy, but the flowers
appear at a time when they would almost certainly
be injured if grown unprotected out of doors in
nearly all parts of England. The kinds named below
are suchas bloom either in spring or autumn, and
are all moderate or not very extravagant in price.
They all thrive in rich alluvial soil. They should
be planted about three inches below the surface, and
taken up and re-planted every third year, as the
corms get nearer the surface
each year, the new one form-
ing above the old one. The
earlier they are planted
after the corms are pro-
curable the better, as when
they are ready to com-
mence growth they rapidly
deteriorate. The foliage
should in no case be re-
moved prematurely, as is too
often done, but should be
allowed to die off naturally,
or the corms will not be so
large as they otherwise
would be. Crocuses may
be grown pretty successfully
beneath the dwarfer Saxi-
frages and other similar
plants, but this plan is at
best somewhat of a make-
shift method, and is only
mentioned here for the pur-
pose of suggesting how to
avoid bare places on the
rockery.

Spring -blooming Crocuses.
—First to be named are
the best Dutch kinds,
which are usually offered
in seedsmen’s catalogues.
Many of these are of great beauty, and they in-
clude the following colours: — Blue, pu:ple,
striped, white and yellow, and intermediate shades
and combinations of these colours. Some of the
choice named Dutch Crocuses are very large and
handsome, and are particularly adapted to produce
striking effects on the rockery when out-door flowers
are very scarce, and consequently correspondingly
precious. Besides these, which for the most part are
the progeny of C. vernus and C. aureus and their
varieties, there are some species of greater rarity
which, where variety is desired, may well be grown
by enthusiasts. Of these we will mention C. alata-
vicus (white, with black lines), C. atlanticus (white,
striped with brown), C. aureus (rich golden-yellow),

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

C. bannaticus (purple), C. biflorus pusillus (a minia-
ture form of the Scotch or Cloth of Silver Cro-
cus), C. Boryi (white, bright orange at the throat),
C. Imperati (variable in colour and markings),
C. lacteus (creamy-white), C. Siebert (bright lilac,
orange at the base), C. stellaris (yellow, striped
with black), C. sulphureus concolor (sulphur), C. s.
striatus (yellow, striped with black), C. s. pallidus
(primrose). These specially named kinds vary in
price from 3d. to 1s. per corm, and are easily obtain-
able from leading houses
in the bulb and Dutch
flower-root trade.

Autumn-bli g Cr
—Crocus cancellatus (vari-
ously coloured from white
to pale bluish-purple), C.
arpetanus (pale purple), C.
etruscus (blue, grey, and
white), C. iridiflorus — of
which byzantinus is a
synonym (rich lilac, shaded
with purple), C. longiflorus
militensis (light purple,
yellow at the throat), C.
medius (bright purple, veined
at the base; the stigmata
bright scarlet and much
branched), C. nudiflorus
(violet-purple), C. ochroleucus
(creamy-white, orange base),
C. odorus longiflorus (soft
lilac), C. pulchellus (lavender-
blue), C. sativus (purple),
C. serotinus (blue), C. speci-
osus (blue), C. suaveolens
(violet, fawn, and black),
and C. zonatus (pale la-
vender, with scarlet zone
—most beautiful). These
autumnal kinds vary from
3d. to 1s. 6d. each corm, except sativus, which is
procurable at 6d. per dozen.

As Crocuses are good seed-bearers and are readilr
hybridised, it is to be hoped that amateurs will
possess themselves of many of the species named
above, and devote some attention to raising new
varieties. They will find the work very interesting.
Crocuses are easily raised from seed, which should
be sown as soon as ripe. In from two to three years
the seedlings will bloom. The additions made to
this genus in recent ycars are of sufficient interest
and variety to warrant the expectation tuat still
further valuable additions will be speedily made, if
a sufficient number of amateurs can be induced te
engage in the work of hybridisation.

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING.

Cyananthus lobatus (Lobed Cyananthus).—A rare
rock gem, delighting in peaty soil and full expo-
sure. It does not usually exceed nine inches high.
It flowers in August and September. Is increased
freely by cuttings, and by seeds when obtainable,
but a dry season is needful to ripen them. A native
of the Himalayas. Should be grown in positions
where the stones of the rockery allow it to nestle
between them. Situation fully exposed, but damp.
It flowers during September and October. Quite
worth trying in the bog-garden.

Cyclamen Atkinsi (Atkins’ Cyclamen).—The worthy
man who raised this variety was of opinicn that the
hardy Cyclamens ought always to be planted elow
the surface of the soil, in this country at least. He
paid much attention to the subject, and was one of
the most successful growers of hardy Cyclamens.
His chief reason for the opinion expressed above
was that, in many cases, the roots of hardy Cycla-
mens proceed from the upper surface of the tuber
only. Our own experience bears out this idea.
Mr. Atkins was also of opinion that hardy Cycla-
mens should be grown in rich, friable, open soil, of
which vegetable débris formed a constituent, and
that plenty of moisture should be supplied to them.
‘hey are best placed in warm, sheltered, and well-
drained positions in the rock-garden, where they
will usually thrive to the grower’s content. They
should not be exposed to the east or the north if
success is desired. These interesting plants are
readily’ raised from seed sown as soon as ripe in
pots, the surface being covered with moss, which is
to be removed gradually when the tiny plants begin
to make their appearance. C. .dthinsi produces rosy-
red flowers in February and March. There is also a
white form of this hybrid variety.

Cyclamen Coum (Round-leaved Cyclamen).— This
species blooms at the same time as the foregoing, the
flowers being deep red. These plants, when grown
in the open air, should, from the period when they
bloom, be afforded some protection, and at least
should be covered with bell-glasses (cloches). It
will be still better to grow some of them in frames,
for in severe winters the flowers will be much in-
jured in the open. Soil should be rich and weil
drained. A native of the Greek Archipelago.

Cyclamen europeum (European Cyclamen).—This
flowers from June to November, more or less, ac-
cording to the season. The normal colour is bright
red, and the blooms are very fragrant. Usually
does well in a light, rich, loamy soil, well drained.
A native of Switzerland.

Cyclamen hederefolinm (Ivy-leaved Cyclamen).—
A synonym of this plant is C. neapolitanum. This
is in bloom from the end of August to October. It
is a very hardy kind; grows almost in every kind of

42

273

soil and situation, though kindly attentions are never
thrown away upon it, It is a native of Switzerland
and elsewhere.

* Daphne Blagayana (White Daphne).—This is at
present rather rare, but when its great merits are
recognised it will be in much request, and will no
doubt be forthcoming from all the leading trade
growers of Alpines. It grows about six inches high,
and has sweetly-scented white flowers, which appear
early in the year. It should be grown in light
sandy loam and peat. Prepagated by layers. A
native of Carniola.

* Daphne Cneorwn (Garland Flower).—This dwarf
evergreen produces under favourable circumstances
a profusion of rosy-pink flowers, deliciously per-
fumed. It rarely exceeds nine inches in height. It
blooms early in the summer, and sometimes also in
the autumn. Sandy peat should be mixed with the
soil, and a plentiful supply of water applied during
the summer months. Should be planted in an open,
sunny position. Propagated by layers. A native
of the European Alps.

Daphne rupestris (Rock Daphne).—Another lovely
rock plant of dwarf growth, and when grown well
is covered with a mass of rosy-pink flowers. Grows
naturally in the fissures of limestone rocks. Should
be grown in light sandy loam and peat, and care
taken to prevent it being overrun by more rapidly-
growing plants.

* Dianthus alpinus (Alpine Pink).—Bears solitary
rosy-pink flowers from July to August. Is very
dwarf in growth. Will grow in almost any soil,
but thrives best when peat is one of the principal
ingredients. It enjoys an exposed position, but
should be kept rather moist. Can be propagated
from seeds or by division. A native of Austria, &c.

Dianthus cesius (Cheddar Pink).—So named popu-
larly because it grows wild on the Cheddar rocks in
Somersetshire. It is also found in various parts of
the European continent, on limestone or volcanic
rocks. The flowers, which appear in early summer,
are large and rosy in colour. It should be grown on
the highest and driest part of the rockery. It also
grows well on walls, and the best way to establish
it there would be to sow the seeds on the wall
in a little cushion of moss, if such existed, or if
not, to place a little earth with the seed in a chink
of the wall.

* Dianthus deltoides (Maiden Pink; Gerarde called’
it the Virgin-like Pink).—Another native Dianthus,
which will grow anywhere, and is admirably fitted
for the rougher and drier parts of the rockery. The
flowers are pink or spotted with white. The flower,
stems are from six to twelve inches long. It flowers
more or less throughout the summer. Tropagated
by division or from seeds.

274

* Dianthus dentosus (Toothed Pink).—A dwarf kind
producing large flowers much toothed at the edge.
In bloom during May and June and often later.
Thrives in light, dryish soil; can be readily raised
from seed. Is a native of Southern Russia.

* Dianthus glacialis (Glacier Pink).—One of the
choicest gems of the rock-garden. It is very dwarf.
The flowers are rosy-pink, and it is quite hardy.
Grow it in poorish, sandy soil, fully exposed. Pro-
pagated from seed and by division. Native of the
Alps and Pyrenees. :

Dodecatheon integrifolium, now named D. Meadia
lancifolium (Entire-leaved Cowslip).—A gem from the
Rocky Mountains. Flowers in May. Soil, sandy
peat. Situation not too exposed. Best grown in pots
preserved in a frame during winter, and plunged in
a shady part of the yyckery during summer. Propa-
gated by careful division and from seeds.

'*Dryas octopetala (White Dryas),—A neat native
evergreen trailing plant, having white flowers.
Moist peat suits it best. Propagated from seeds
and by division. There is also a yellow-flowered
species named D. Drummondi, to which the foregoing
remarks apply equally.

Edraianthus dalmaticus (Dalmatian Edraianthus).
—A herbaceous perennial of which slugs are ab-
normally fond. It rarely exceeds four inches in
height. The flowers are pale purple in colour, and
‘an inch in length. The soil should be gritty and
well drained, and the position in fissures among the
most exposed rocks. The offsets may be used for
propagation if separated after the plant goes out of
flower. It blooms in July and August. Native of
Dalmatia and Switzerland. The modern name is
Wahlenbergia tenuifolia.

*Ericas (Hardy Heaths).—Among hardy Heaths
there are a number of very dwarf-growing kinds of
great beauty, which are admirably adapted for first-
class positions on the most select rockery. Many of
these form dense dwarf cushions of velvety-green
when not in flower, but when in flower are gems not
to be matched. ‘They should all be planted in fully-
exposed positions, and in soil in which sandy peat
predominates. The following is a list of the best
and most characteristic kinds :—Erica carnea (flesh-
coloured), E, ¢. alba (pure white—very choice), £.
Tetralix Mackayana (crimson), E. vagans (Cornish
Heath). FE. vulgaris alba aurea (golden toliage), E. v.
a, Hammondi (white), E. v. Allporti (crimson), E. v.
Foxii (a compact variety), and E. v. Pygmea (very
dwarf), are all forms of the common Ling (Calluna
vulgaris). There are many other kinds worth grow-
ing, the names of which may be found in the cata-
logues of the leading growers.

*“Erodium Reichardii (Reichard’s Heronsbill).—A
pretty dwarf plant, with numerous small white

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

flowers, from June to August. Soil, moist sandy
peat or loam. Native of Majorca.

_Erpetion reniforme (New Holland Violet).— An
Australian plant, not quite hardy in this country
except in warm sunny spots. It therefore is needful
to give it in-door protection during winter. It is,
however, such a perfect little gem that no one will
grudge as much attention to it as they bestow on
common-place half-hardy summer bedding plants.
It is a suitable plant to form a close-fitting carpet
in the best positions. Soil, light and well drained.
Propagated by divisions, protected in pots in the
winter, and planted out the latter end of May.
Requires plenty of water during the summer.

Erysimum pumilum (Fairy Wall-flower).—A very
dwarf plant, suitable for the highest and driest
positions of the rockery, or on the tops of old walls.
It has a branching habit, and the prostrate shoots
often emit roots where they come in contact with
the soil, so that it is easily propagated. Soil, very
sandy loam. Native of Switzerland.

* Erythronium dens-canis (Dog’s-tooth Violet).
—One of the choicest of early spring-blooming
plants; foliage and flowers alike beautiful. A
mixture of peat with ordinary soil seems to suit it
best, but it will grow under almost any conditions
provided it is fully exposed. It propagates itself
by the formation of new bulbs annually, and these
should be taken up, divided, and re-planted every
third year early in the autumn. Native of Central
Europe.

* Galanthus nivalis (Snowdrop).—Not only the
common kind, than which none is more beautiful,
but G@. Imperati and G. Elwesi should be grown by
every one. The common Snowdrop is thoroughly
naturalised in many parts of England, but it is
doubtful whether it is indigenous. Needs no special
culture, and propagates itself by rapid increase of
its bulbs.

* Gentiana acaulis (Gentianella).— To grow this
well it must be planted in deep rich loam, and be
well supplied with water during the summer. Al-
though in some respects a common plant like our
Daisies, it is like them too in being extremely lovely.
There is really nothing like it in this respect, its
beautiful dark blue flowers, when the plant thrives,
baving no equals. Wherever the circumstances suit
its requirements it grows like a weed, and no one
can have too much of it. The base of the rockery
seems to suit it best, and it should be grown in
positions rather flat than sloping, and tully exposed
to the sun. May be readily propagated by seeds and
division. It flowers from May to July. It is a
native of the Alps and Pyrenees. Where a bog-
bed exists it should be planted as a marginal plant,
as it is fond of plenty of moisture.

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

Gentiana bavarica (Bavarian Gentian).—Much like
the preceding species, but its leaves are smaller and
Box-like. Its flowers are brilliantly blue. The bog
is the proper place to see this lovely gem in per-
fection, but it must have full exposure to the sun,
and be protected from the incursions of rapidly-
growing plants. A native of the European Alps.

* Gentiana Pneumonanthe (Marsh Gentian).— One
of our loveliest native plants, bearing long tubular
flowers. This is another plant for which the bog is
the proper home. Propagated by division.

Gentiana verna (Spring Gentian).—Another na-
tive of exquisite beauty, and very dwarf in size.
On fully-exposed positions where plenty of water is
supplied during the summer, as well as in the
artificial bog, it will be sure to thrive if not overrun
by more rapidly-growing plants. It deserves any
amount of trouble, being so beautiful, and though it
rejoices in moisture this should not be stagnant. It
seems to prosper best when a plentiful supply of
nodules of sandstone are sprinkled on the surface of
the soil, and so preserve it from droughts. Plenty of
sand should be mixed with the soil in which it is
planted to secure sufficient drainage.

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

By James Hupson.

DRAWING-ROOM AND BOUDOIR.

HERE are many flowers that can be appropriately
used in the decoration of these, which would

not be so well suited to the purposes dwelt upon in
the previous chapter—such as Carnations, Picotees,
Pinks, and Stocks from among hardy flowers; and
Gardenias, Jasmines, Stephanotis, and Bouvardia
Humboldtit corymbiflora from under glass. Our
reasons for not using too many strongly-scented
flowers on the dinner-table were given in the last
chapter. In any room one or two sprays of this
Bouvardia would be sufficient to perfume the atmo-
sphere, the fragrance from it in the evening being
very powerful. A few flowers also of the Tuberose
are quite enough in any apartment. When some
two or three spikes of it have to be arranged, they
will be best placed in either an entrance-hall or
corridor, where the perfume would be the more
likely to be disseminated throughout other apart-
ments. The Polyanthus Narcissus and Hyacinths
are best placed in the same position as the Tuberose
spikes. Mignonette and Violets are universal
favourites in the drawing-room ; their unpretentious
flowers are not calculated to make a showy display,
but are nevertheless most welcome. So are the
blossoms of the Chimonanthus fragrans and its

275

variety grandiflorus with their distinct perfume. The
Heliotrope, the Honeysuckles, and many other
flowers that are not adapted for making a great
show, are yet well suited to, and general favourites
in, the drawing-room and boudoir.

Vases and Baskets.—In the selection of
vases for these rooms, those of medium size should
never be exceeded, unless the room be of unusual
proportions. We much prefer vases of small di-
mensions for every-day use; any vase that is
large enough to hold an ordinary-sized bouquet
being ample in our opinion. On special occasions
those of larger size could be used, perhaps, with
advantage when it is desirable to congregate a
larger quantity of flowers together. Greater variety
in form and material of the vases that are utilised
would be admissible, no two in fact need be alike in
any way. Many vases that would be too massive
and heavy for the dinner-table could be turned to a
good account for special occasions. For general
purposes glass vases will be found the best in every
way. Large-sized specimen glasses are very useful
for sprays of Orchids, or any special flowers that it
is thought desirable to keep by themselves. Vases
of china or other heavy material require greater
discrimination in the selection of flowers. Those
in which dark shades predominate should be chosen
for light-coloured flowers, and vice rersdé. Take, for
instance, one of the gorgeous blossoms of Magnolia
grandiflora, for this a vase either black or of dark
colour should be chosen, whilst for the Peeonias with
flowers of light shades of pink and rose, we would
prefer a dark blue vase. With a bunch of dark-
coloured Roses we should seek for a receptacle of
pale tint. For the Tea-scented Roses of light shades
a vase of a bronzy or pale brown colour would give
a good contrast.

Rustic baskets look exceedingly pretty when not
over-crowded, and are suited for Roses, Primroses,
Daffodils, and Anemones, with other similar flowers.
These baskets, too, have a most pleasing effect with
a few bulbs placed in them during the spring time,
and some Selaginella to carpet the same, or a small
pot of a dwarf-growing Fern placed in the centre. A
few roots of the Primrose, or other spring-flowering
plants, could be chosen as a change, with nice fresh
Moss or shoots of asmall-leaved Ivy to entwine about
the same. Those flowers which are in most cases
only to be had with very short stems, such as the
Stephanotis and Gardenias, can be advantageously
arranged in a flat dish, placing some Moss in the
latter with the necessary quantity of water. In such
dishes a few flowers of the Gardenias, and the Tea-
scented Rose Madame Falcot, look very well, each
with a little of their own foliage.

276

None of the designs in this department of floral
decoration, except the rustic baskets and flat dishes
just referred to, need be dressed with flowers at the
base. In fact it is better that no such styles of
arrangement be chosen which of necessity require
this kind of filling: we would rather prefer, in a
general way, those vases which are elevated somewhat
above the immediate surroundings. In all cases also
avoid the error so often committed of over-crowding
the flowers; better to choose another vase, and the
effect will be greatly enhanced thereby. Do not let
one vase be a counterpart of the other, avoid re-
petition as much as excessive crowding. If one

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

arranged and placed ‘near a window that is open
a considerable part of the day, the flowers and foliage
must of necessity fade the sooner. This caution’ is
the more requisite when we have to do with forced
flowers early in the spring ; these, by reason of being
pressed into flower out of their proper season, nave
not, as a rule, that persistency or power of resisting
this exposure which flowers have in their natural
season. The same caution is required in dealing
with tender exotics, during chilly weather especially.
The better way will be to place the flowers in a
position where this evil can be partially avoided, yet
not in proximity to a fire-place. Cut flowers are

Fig, 5.—A Rustic BASKET FOR THE BoupOIR OR DRAWING-ROOM.

variety, or species of flower, predominate in one
stand, sec that the opposite is the case in the other.
Flowers are coming to be much sought after for
-bed and dressing rooms, especially as a welcome to
invited guests. Such flowers should be chosen with
forethought, avoiding those which have more than
usually strong perfumes, and in the case of one colour
predominating ‘among the surrounding furniture of
the room, avoid that colour in particular. Small
specimen glasses with a solid base are the best in
which to arrange what few are required. There will
not, thus, be much room for artistic arrangement,
simplicity being what should be aimed at. The
foliage used therewith should be of good lasting
properties ; in an emergency it can then be taken for
personal decoration with other flowers, if necessary.

Preservation of Cut Flowers.—The mis-
take is very often made of exposing cut flowers in
rooms to sharp currents of air; thus, if a stand is

(Filled with cut flowers.)

oftentimes placed in small vases on the chimney-
piece ; this when the fire is alight isa great mistake,
worse even than the exposure to the draft. In lieu
of using fresh flowers in such a position, we would
urge all decorators to furnish their vases with ever-
lasting flowers and grasses, as recommended in «
previous chapter. With very choice flowers on
which special value may be placed, it is an excellent
plan to arrange them in a vase which when filled
can be covered with a glass shade. In this man-
ner their retention of colour and freshness will be
greatly enhanced. When each vase in its turn has
to be re-filled, some of the flowers, if necéssary, can
generally be used over again, excepting in the sum-
mer months, when the quantity is more abundant.
Those flowers that are still fresh should have a little
piece taken off the end of the stem, so that the
fresh water given them is the more readily absorbed.
The water in which Stocks in particular, and some
other flowers also, are placed, is soon rendered

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS, 277

obnoxious ; in such cases fresh supplies should be
given at least every other day, the vases at the same
time having a thorough cleansing.

and striking flowers, Richardia e@thiopicc. (the
Lily of the Nile), with the spathes of Anthurium
Scherzerianum, would give an effective display during

Fig. 6&.—A Sranp or Por PLANTS ARRANGED IN AN IMPROMPTU STYLE, FLOWERING aND Fouiacs INT=RMIXED.

ENTRANCE-HALLS AND CORRIDORS.
In dealing with floral arrangements for these,
there is an excellent opportunity for exercising
one’s abilities in the grouping together of bold

the spring months, bearing in mind the addition of
appropriate foliage as previously advised. Later on
the larger forms of Daficdils could be turned to
a good account; these in turn being followed by

278

numbers of herbaceous plants, such as the showy
panicles of the Delphiniums, with the distinct spikes
of the Funkias, and their own handsome foliage.
Following these there are the hardy Liliums rae
as L. didum, L. chaleed , L. longiforum, L
Humboldtii, and the forms of L. laneifolium or
speciosum for the autumn. Before the last of these
are fit to use there will be plenty of Gladiolus spikes
to be had; these form excellent subjects for side-
board decoration. At the same season, too, there are
the single Dahlias, whilst the smaller forms of Sun-
flowers (Helianthus), chiefly of the herbaceous
section, will have been useful for some time. Then
we have the Guernsey and Belladonna Lilies, that
will take us on till the late autumn flowering varieties
of Salvias are fit for use (chiefly the forms of Salvia
splendens). After these are past there will be an
abundant choice of Chrysanthemums, which will
afford for sevéral weeks an excellent variety in both
colour and form. When these are over and gone
there will be the spikes of Epacris in various shades,
and Schizostylis inea, with Eucharis am

which should be used when the last -two or three
flowers are about developed, so that there is no
waste by taking off the spike. The Eucharis can of
course be worked into use at other seasons of the
year, in unison with the richly-coloured forms of
English and German Iris in particular, also with
Vallota purpurea, and the Amaryllis which flower
early in the season.

In this manner the year can be bridged round
with suitable subjects for bold and striking arrange-
ments, which in such positions are more appropriate
than any other form of decorations. In the place of
fresh flowers when these may be scarce, or to use in
addition to them, we have choice of the graceful
plumes of the Pampas Grass (Gynerium argenteum),
and the silvery Arundo (Arundo conspicua). The
ears of Indian Corn, too, can be turned to good
account, so also can the species of Typha or Cats’-
tails. These latter would be a good contrast to the
plumes of the Pampas. Very effective, too, are well-
grown examples of Celosia pyramidalis. We manage
to secure these after the plants have done their turn
in the conservatory, and show signs of decay in the
roots and stem, the tops being still fresh and bright.
Flowers that are comparatively small, and only to be
had with short stems, are not so well suited for these
methods of grouping. The majority of the examples
that we have given will only be seen on one side in
either entrance-halls or corridors; the best and most
effective way of arranging them therefore will be
“to one face,” in which manner some most striking
arrangements can be made, that with a little prac-
tice can soon be improved upon by those who have
not attempted much in this direction before. It is

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

necessary, however, to have vases with a firm
footing, to avoid any danger of toppling over ufter
being filled.

SINGLE PLANTS FOR ROOMS.

There are many plants which can be advantageously
used in the various apartments of the house, im-
parting in many instances a characteristic appearance
with the surrounding objects in each room, and in
unison too with the decorations of the same. Of such
plants, those that are grown for the beauty of their
foliage will, as a general rule, be found the more
suitable. These may be divided, we think, with ad-
vantage into two divisions: first, those which can be
grown with tolerable success for a portion of the
year at least in the said rooms; and, secondly, those
which are handsome objects for decorations of a-tem-
porary character, but by reason of their susceptibility
to be injured if allowed to remain for any length of
time, should not be employed as permanent orna-
ments. Itis morally impossible to grow with success
those plants which require the maximum of heat and
moisture for their proper development. In rooms,
the plants have no congenial atmospheric conditions,
no genial dew at night to invigorate their foliage
for the retention of health in the same, and as an aid
to the perfecting of future growths. This, combined
with the scarcity of light that is obtainable in some
positions (for plants often get placed in out-of-the-
way nooks and corners) is the frequent cause of
failure. If we for a moment glance at these plants,
which in their native climes revel in heavy dews and
considerable rainfall, we shall see the struggle they
have to maintain life under such disadvantageous
conditions. Everything that can be done to counter-
act these drawbacks to successful culture, should be
acted upon by preparing the plants beforehand for
these uses, gradually inuring them to the changes
they have to go through.

No plants should be used in room decorations that
have been recently re-potted into larger pots, or by
reducing the size of the ball and putting them back
again into the same pot. All plants should be
thoroughly well established in the pots they occupy
before being used. Our reason for this is, that they
will then more readily absorb the moisture from the
soil than when taken into use soon after a shift has
been given. The roots that are freshly made in new
soil are tender, and quickly suffer when the plant is
not in a growing atmosphere. The soil then becomes
cold and sodden, ending in the roots dying at the
extremities through these not being able to assimi-
late the necessary food from the soil, and the latter
then becomes what is termed sour and inert, by
reason of the excess of moisture. We advocate in all
possible cases the charge of the plants being in the

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

hands of the cultivator, whatever position they may
occupy. It is extraordinary what superficial know-
ledge some have who are not practically acquainted
with the requirements of plants. They will, per-
haps, say, “ Oh! we watered our plants a little every
morning, and they cannot have suffered in that
way.” It is this dribbling system that is the evil,
the soil nearly always being saturated with water.
Or, on the other hand, we may see the opposite ex-
treme of neglecting to water for days together, and
then giving a quantity to make up for deficiencies.
During the late autumn, the winter, and the early
spring months, the plants in rooms should be care-
fully shielded from draughts and the cold exterior
atmosphere. We often see plants placed in windows,
or near them, and no better place either, taken as a
whole; in the early morning, however, the windows
are thrown up when cleansing operations are being
carried on, quite irrespective of the plants and
the state of the weather outside, with, perhaps, «
few degrees of frost or a biting wind. No wonder
that plants should suffer when thus exposed. To
remedy this, remove them to a table or other con-
venient spot till the window can again be partially
closed, Windows with plants in or near them should
be opened at the top, not at the bottom, so that the
cold air will not strike right on to the plant.

Ornamental vases or pots can be obtained of many
varied designs to suit the taste ; those with a hole in
the bottom to let off the water that drains from the
pot will be found the best; such generally have an
ornamental saucer to accompany them. Rustic
stands or baskets to hold a small group are very
pretty when carefully filled, with a carpeting of
fresh green Moss placed between them. With such
as these, a few plants of drooping habit will be of
use around the edges, or some nice fresh tufts of
Selaginella denticulata or S. c@sia.

The following list of plants may be taken under
the first division hinted at as being good durable
room plants: those marked with (*) being capable
of effective use as dinner-plants as well. Of foliage
subjects: Aspidistra lurida variegata, from China,
one of the best, thriving in unfavourable posi-
tions as well or better than the Ficus elastica
(India-rubber Plant); this, too, must be included,
being an excellent subject for « high window
when the plant reaches three or more feet in height.
Stenocarpus sinuatus, a little-known plant with pin-
natifid foliage, and very pretty in a small state.
Aralia Sieboldii and its variegated forms are hand-
some objects for large-sized vases, both distinct and
durable. .A. reticulata is also a good plant, with
narrow leaves, unlike most of the Aralias. Of the
green-house Dracenas, two or three of the green-
leaved forms are very useful, being also of good consti-

279

tution. D. congesta,* with narrow leaves of medium
length, is one of the hardiest ; D. rwbra,* with broader
foliage, is equally useful. Eurya latifolia variegata,
best described as resembling a Camellia with varie-
gated foliage, is very ornamental. Farfugium grande,
or the Variegated Coltsfoot, is a good dwarf plant.
Grevillea robusta * is coming to be better known since
it has been raised from seed; its Fern-like foliage is
very ornamental and distinct. Ophiopogon Jaburan
variegata, with grass-like leafage and pretty spikes
of porcelain-blue flowers, is a good lasting plant.
Rhopala curcovadensis, with its rich brown tomentose
stems and younger leaves, is very ornamental as well
as of good lasting properties; R. elegantissima* is
another handsome kind; 2. De Jonghii, with more
massive foliage, is also good.

Several of the hardier kinds of Palms are among
the most ornamental plants for room decoration.
The following list comprises the best adapted for re-
maining any time in rooms and other positions in the
house :— Areca sapida (Rhopalostylis sapida), 4. Bauert
(Rhopalostylis Baueri), Chamarops humilis, C. eacelsa
(Trachycarpus excelsus), K. Forsteriana* (Howea For-
steriana), Latania borbonica (Livistona chinensis),
Phenix reclinata, P. rupicola,* P. tenuis, P. dactylifera,
Rhapis flabelliformis, and Seaforthia elegans* (Ptycho-
sperma Cunninghamiana) ; these being all cool-house
species, with good lasting foliage that does not so
easily suffer trom exposure. There are not many
stove plants adapted for remaining many days out of
their quarters; the green-leaved Pandanus, as P.
graminifolius,* P. utilis, and P. Vandermeerschii,* are
about the best. We have, however, several Ferns
that succeed for months together, provided they have
a favourable position with an average amount of
light. Adiantum pubescens, Asplenium bulbiferum, A.
flaceidum, A. lucidum, Cyrtomium faleatum, Davallia
canariensis, D. Mariesii (comparatively new), Dictyo-
gramma japonicun, Lastrea Sieboldii, L. Standishii,
Nephrolepis exaltata, N. pectinata, N. tuberosa, Nipho-
bolus lingua, Phlebodium aureum, Platycerium alcicorne,
Platyloma falcatum, Pteris cretica, P. longifolia, P. ser-
rulata (or Ribbon Fern), P. tremula, and P. umbrosa.
These Ferns would give greater satisfaction than the
more delicate forms. The Maiden-hair (Adiantum
cuneatum)* is often attempted, but generally creates
disappointment, growing less day by day.

Some few plants are well adapted when in a
large state for situations of considerable extent;
such, for instance, as Phormium tenax, and its va-
riegated varieties; and the tall-growing Dracznas,
D. australis, D. indivisa, and D. lineata* (these
three are really Cordylines), with the greenhouse
species of the genus Yucca; these plants in a small
state are not generally .so useful, Dracena aus.
tralis being the best of them when young. Many

280 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

of the cther subjects that we have named are also
very ettective in a large state; the Palms more par-
ticularly, most of which are of stately growth and
bold contour. There are some few flowering plants
that succeed well in rooms, especially in windows.
One of the very best is Campanula fragilis, which we
have seen cultivated the year round by a lady in her
drawing-room; C.
garganica is another
pretty species.
Several of the Cacti
are also easily
grown, though not
desirable when of
extra size. Space
forbids us to enu-
merate other genera
of suitable flower-
ing plants, though
many may be at-
tempted with toler-
able success.

Of foliage plants
belonging to the
second division, we
have a wealth of
choice wherewith
to beautify and
adorn the apart-
ments for special
occasions, either in-
dividually or col-
lectively. Several
stove plants can
here be brought
into use with advan-
tage. Some of the
best are in the fol-
lowing list, viz. :—
Acalypha tricolor,* a
plant that lights up
well; Alocasia metal-
liea, in a small state ;
Ananassa sativa
variegata* (Variegated Pine-apple) ; Aralia elegantis-
sima,* A. Veitchii gracillima,* and .A. leptophylla,
three distinct plants both light and pretty ; Aspara-
gus plumosus nanus,* described in a previous chap-
ter, also 4. tenuissimus; Begonias with ornamental
foliage ; Caladiwms, in variety, C. argyrites in parti-
cular. Crotons in a small state are very ornamental
when well coloured. The following are somo of
the best, viz.: C. angustifolius,* C. Brageanus (new),
C. Johannis,* C. majesticus,*# CO. nobilis,* C. caudatus
tortilis, C. Warrenii,* and C. Sinitzinianus, all having
narrow pendulous foliage. The following kinds

Fig. 7.—A Sranp or Por Prants, FouiaGe SUBJECTS ONLY.

have long yet fairly broad leaves, and are all well-
tried sorts with good colour, but, although so well
known under the name of Croton, belong to a quite
distinct genus, viz., Codiaum :—C. Queen Victoria,* C.

dulatus,* C. Wei i,*,C. Nevillee,* and C. Anei-
tumensis.* The broad-leaved section are highly
ornamental in a small state; the best are C. Baroness
J. de Rothschild, C.
Comte de Germiny,
C. Dayspring, C.
Evansianus,* C.
Mortii, C. pictus,*
C. variegatus, C.
Andreanus.* The
best of the trilobe
types are C. Dis-
raeli* and C. Earl
of Derby. Next to
these we will enu-
merate a few of the
best coloured Dra-
caenas; these make
splendid decorative
plants, some with
narrow and linear
foliage, others with
broad and noble
leaves. Of the
former, D. termi-
nalis,* D.Cooperii,*
D, Bausei,* D. ju-
cunda,* D. elegan-
tissima,* D. nigro-
rubra,* and D,
Mooreana,* are
distinct and
good. Of the
broad - leaved sec-
tion, D. Youngii is
one of the most
noble and effective,
so also is D. Bap-
tistii, D. amabilis,
D. stricta, and D.
Thompsonii are likewise fine varieties. D. gracilis, with
green foliage and a margin of purplish-bronze, is
quite distinct (all the preceding, however, are not
now known as Dracznas at all, but are forms of one
or two species of Cordyline). There is also D. Gold-
tweana, with its curiously - barred leaves. Cyperus
alternifolius* and its variegated variety are very
handy plants, especially for grouping. Ficus parcelli
is distinct, so also is Erythrina marmorata, « plant
that bears a good amount of rough usage. Of the
variegated Pandanus, P. Veitehii* is far away the
best, and always in request. For carpeting work or,

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS. 281

edging of groups Panicum variegatum (Oplismenus
Burmanni variegatus), Fittonia argyroneura, the Tra-
descantias, and the Sonerilas are all good in associa-
tion with the Club Mosses or Selaginellas. Consider-
able aid is also obtained from Palms of more tender
constitution. The following varieties will all be of
the greatest service either as individual specimens, or
for using collectively in groups. Of the so-called
Arecas, 4. aurea * (Dictyosperma album), .A. lutescens*
(Chrysa livocarpus
lutescens), and A.
Verschaffeltii (Hyo-
Phorbe Verschaf-
Jeltii) are all dis-
tinctand handsome ——
species. Calamus GY
ciliaris* ig also a ‘
beautiful Palm.
Among the Geono-
mas there are G.
punila,* G. graci-
lis,* @, Schottiana,*
and G. intermedia,*
all of elegant
growth. Damono-
rops fissus,* Euterpe
edulis,* and Thri-
naz elegans* are
each of them exéel-
lent decorative
plants. Cocos Wed-
delliana,* is a well-
known Palm that
scarcely needs any
recommendation,
being a_ general
favourite. The fol-
lowing kindsare ail
of tall, slender, and
plume-like habit,
which causes them
to be of great ser-
vice in groups or in
any position where their beautiful heads of feathery
‘foliage can be effectively displayed, viz., Cocos plu-
mosa, C. Romanzofiana, Chamedorea elegantissima,* C.
graminifolia,* C. glaucifolia, and Oreodoxa regia. All
of these thrive in the most limited size of pot, pro-
vided they are well supplied with water. Of hardy
plants, or nearly so, there are the fine laciniate or cut-
leaved varieties of Japanese Maples (mostly forms of
Acer palmatum), some with deep green, others with
bronzy-red foliage. These have a beautiful effect
under artificial light, with a few flowering plants
interspersed amongst them. The variegated Acer
Negundo (more correctly Negendo aceroides variegatum)

Fig. 8.—A WELL-PROPORTIONED PALM FOR A VASE. py

is also a useful plant when grown in pots for in-door
decoration. The hardy Bamboos are likewise excel-
lent subjects for these uses, Bambusa Metake (Arun-
dinaria japonica) and Arundinaria falcata being the
best. Eulalia japonica * and Gymnothrix latifolia are
two valuable Grasses; the variegated variety of the
former, when grown under glass, being a choice plant
for groups.

The choice of flowering plants is so large that but a
cursory glance can
be given. Avoid:
the use of trained
plants of formal
and stiff outline in
every case where
beauty of arrange-
ment is the prim-
ary consideration.
Rather choose such
as are of slender
growth, as Richar-
dia ethiopica, Lili-
ums and Gladiolus
of various sorts,
Eucharis amazon-
ica, with Pancra-
tiem fragrans (Hy-
menocallis ovata),
and Amaryllis of
many kinds, for the
central portions of
groups, whilst a-
round the margins
small pots of Glox-
inias and other
plants, each in their
season, will be very
effective, with the

‘ addition of some
5 Maiden-hair Fern.
| In all groups let
every flowering
plant be placed so
that its beauty is seen distinctively. The mistaken
notion of overcrowding pot plants is as much to be
condemned as is a crowded arrangement of cut flowers.
Massing of several plants of any given variety must
be done with caution. Pots of Spirea japonica
(Astilbe japonica) and Lilies of the Valley make pretty
groundworks amongst the taller-growing plants.
Rhodanthes, in variety with the Aquilegias, can be
used ina similar way. Of plants with sweet perfume,
besides those named, among the cut flowers, there are
the scented-leaved Pelargoniums, and Aloysia citri-
odora (Lippia citriodora), called also Sweet-scented
Verbena, or Lemon Plant. Mention must also be

282

made of Boronia megastigma ; the aromatic fragrance
of its singular flowers should cause it to be grown by
lovers of odoriferous plants. Ifa window which ad-
mits a goodly quantity of sunlight is available, that
would be a very suitable place for a pot of Musk
(Mimulus moschatus) through the summer months.
Fern or Wardian cases should also be accorded a
similar position, but slightly screened from the
direct rays of the sun during its greatest height each
‘day. A bow-window would be an excellent position
to choose for one of these cases, guarding, as pre-
viously hinted at, against injury from excessive or
cold currents of air. This branch of the subject
will, however, be treated more in detail in a series
of articles upon Winpow anp House GARDENING.

THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE.

By D. T. Fisu.

ROSES ON WALLS, AND WALLS OF ROSES.

HE title may savour of tautology, but it is really
not so, as the two things are totally distinct.
Roses have doubtless found a place on walls from
their first introduction, but a wall of Roses is a novel
modern invention, the number of examples of which
may yet be counted'on our fingers. To plant a
tender Rose on a dwelling-house or wall is a very
different matter to clothing a whole wall, fifty, one
hundred, or five hundred yards long, with Roses.
And this is what we are coming to in the not distant
future; for, commercially, Roses pay better than
fruit, and they also yield a richer and more durable
revenue of pleasure.

Some Roses, such as the Daisy or Banksian—
which, by the way, are also Roses without thorns—
and some of the more tender Noisettes, such as the
Cloth of Gold (alias Chrometella) or La Morgue,
have always needed the genial shelter of warm walls
to enable them to thrive and bloom in our climate.
It would almost seem, too, as if our climate or some
of our Roses had changed for the worse. Five-and-
twenty years ago the Cloth of Gold, contrasted with
the general rarity of Roses, was common. I have
seen a plant of it in Suffolk covering the front of a
large mansion, which it goldened o’er with a profusion
of Roses that could hardly be exceeded by its great
successor and superseder, Maréchal Niel. But now—
well, itis nowhere. Not that it is extinct, for it lives,
mayhap flowers here and there, but it is hardly ever
scen or, indeed, heard of; and yet this Cloth of Gold
in perfection is quite equal to Maréchal Niel, which
has not only superseded it, but apparently so under-
mined its constitution that the Cloth of Gold will
hardly live where it used to grow like a weed.

CASSELL’S FOPULAR GARDENING.

Since the introduction of Maréchal Niel it has
become the favourite golden Rose for warm walls.
It has, however, faults of its own from which the
Cloth of Gold was free. It blooms almost too
early for our climate, and is subject to gout in
its stems, that ends its career suddenly and pre-
maturely. The merits of this Rose are, however,
so great, and it flowers so profusely, that it has
already become the most popular of all Roses for
walls.

But writing of Roses on walls rather than walls of
Roses, it will be our duty and pleasure to note some
of the old favourites. First and foremost among
these ranks the Banksian or Daisy Rose, introduced
from China by Sir Joseph Banks in 1807. These
Daisy Roses have also the merit of being without
thorns. They flower in clusters like white and
golden Daisies already gathered into posies. The
white is fragrant—a sort of half-and-half of Prim-
rose and Violet ; the yellow has little or no odour.
Both are great favourites, and bloom freely on a
south or west wall. The variety introduced by Mr.
Fortune and bearing his name has much larger and
pure white flowers, which so far spoils a Banksian
Rose. There is also an improved yellow Banksian,
with finer foliage than the common, and a deener-
coloured, richer yellow bloom. These are, however,
seldom seen in gardens, whereas trees of the
common white and yellow of enormous size and
floriferousness are not uncommon. To flower these
Roses freely, a free growth should be encouraged,
and they should be pruned sparingly, and that only
once a year, about midsummer, so soon as the flowers
fade. The whole of the long sprays made after-
wards should be left, and these result in wreaths of
bloom in tiny clusters from a foot to two yards
long, drooping and draping and even hiding the
front of a wall.

The Macartney Rose (Rosea bracteata) was also a
great favourite on walls when the old China, the
Boursault, and Ayrshire, with a few others, were
almost the only competitors. These are still among
the most interesting of all Roses, though, considering
that they were introduced from China as early as
1795, they are far from common. The foliage, wood,
and stem are peculiar as well as the flowers, the
leaves large and shining ; the stems of at least one
being rough, with a sort of suppressed spines as those
of a hedgehog, and the flowers pure white, of a pecu-
liarly pleasing odour. There is a double variety
now, but the single was the most common in the
olden times.

The Musk Rose—This was one of the first to
be introduced into this country, supposed to have
been received from Persia or India as early as tho
year 1596. It was well known to the early poets, a8

THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE.

Shakespeare refers to it several times in the Mid-
sionmer Night’s Dream, thus :—

as Some to a cankers in the Musk Rose buds,

* * * * *
And stick Musk Roses in thy sleek, smooth hair,”
This species of Rose with its varieties is still largely
grown in Spain, Persia, and Africa, and is supposed
to be the Rose from which the famous Otto of Roses
is manufactured. It is somewhat tender, and flowers
in clusters in the autumn. Musk scent is less popular
than it used to be, and it would almost seem that
_the Musk Rose had dropped part of its perfume to
be in harmony with the times. Certain it is that
it now needs a moist atmosphere, a still air, and
acute olfactory nerves to perceive the odour of Musk
in these Roses. There are several varieties now,
among the best of which are White Fringed, the
Double White, the flowers having a dash of yellow
in them; the Princesse de Nassau, the sweetest of
all modern sorts, of a yellowish-pink colour; and
Rivers’ Musk, a creamy-white with a dash of pink in
the cream. The original species (Rosa moschata) was
single, and was the one generally grown on walls
or in warm borders long, long ago. In favourable
situations and on warm walls the Musk Rose grows
freely, and a few are well worth growing for their
associations as well as their intrinsic merits. Ad-
ditional interest attaches to the Musk Rose, inasmuch
as it is thought to have been one of the parents—
the other being the Chinese—of the Noisette Rose, so
called after Philippe Noisette of North America, who
introduced that family into Europe in 1817. The
small and curious-leaved Rose microphylla was also
occasionally met with, and other species, the Bour-
sault, Ayrshire, and Evergreen Roses, being fast
climbers, were likewise largely employed as wall-
clothers.

Those who could appreciate the persistent flower-
ing properties of the common and other varieties of
the China Rose, that earned for it the well-deserved
character of “monthly” in the olden time, also
frequently backed it up against walls with the
happiest results. Roses being scarce, and empty
walls plentiful, all Roses were often placed against
them, and one of the most pleasing visions of the
past is that of a trio of the oldest Moss, Provence,
and Alba Roses, planted thus—a Maiden Blush
in the centre, supported by the old Cabbage and
the old Moss to the right and left of it. These
had enwreathed the entire front of a cottage, which
they clothed with beauty and steeped in fragrance
every summer-tide, and furnished a good illustra-
tion of the fact that all Roses will climb if you give
them time. This is worth remembering in these
days of feverish hurry and haste, and when so many
vigorous-growing Roses are marshalled ready to our

293

hand, warranted to reach the summit of the highest
post, arch, or wall in the shortest time.

Varieties.—Any favourite Rose, either of the
past or the present, may be planted against walls; and
those who wish to retain something of the character
of the old-fashioned wall Roses, while using more or
less of new material, can hardly do better than add to
the old Roses, already indicated, such selections from
the Moss, Hybrid Chinas, Chinas, Bourbons, Nois-
ettes, and Hybrid Perpetuals, as follows :—

Moss.
Perpetual Moss.—Pure white, flowering in clusters.
Madame Moreau.—Bright red, striped with white.
James Veitch_—Deep violet, with crimson shading,

large and double.

Mrs. Wm. Paul.—One of the best and brightest of
the Perpetual Moss Roses.

HYBRID CHINAS.

Blaivii No. 2.

Coupe a’ Hébé.—This is far the best of its class,
grows vigorously, flowers in clusters, exquisite in
bud, of the deepest pink, continues in flower for two
or more months.

Chenodole.—Brilliant crimson, very large.

Fulgens.—Bright crimson-scarlet.

Madame Plantier.—Pure white.

Miss Ingram.—Pure white, with pinky centre.

Paul Ricaut.—Rich crimson, one of the most vivid.

Paul Verdier.—Bright rose, large and full.

Tivid.—Rich crimson, free and showy.

CHINAS.

Common Red and Pink.

American Banner.—Yellowish-white, grand colour,
with rose magenta ‘stripes.

Cramoisie Supérieure.—Velvety-crimson.

James Sprunt.—A climbing sport from the above.

BOURBONS.

Gloire de Rosamene.—Brilliant in bud, though not
much more than semi-double when full.

Souvenir de la Malmaison.--One of the best of the
pale flesh or blush Roses.

NOISETTES.

Aimée Tibert.—Pure white, very fine.

America,—-Pale salmon -pink, shaded, in large
clusters.

Celine Forestier.—Pale or primrose- yellow, in
clusters.

Coquette des Blanches.—Extra pure white, large
and free.

Jaune Desprez.—Bronzy-yellow and buff, change-
able, very vigorous.

Lamarque.—Pale lemon, pure white in buds,
flowers in large clusters, one of the best.

Réve d@’ Or.—Deep yellow, large and full.

284

Triomphe de Rennes.—Pale yellow, very free and
good, especially so in the autumn.

William Allen Richardson.—Small orange-yellow
flowers, striking.

HYBRID PERPETUALS.

These are so beautiful, and most of them such
good growers, that the whole family might be backed
up against walls, which they would speedily clothe
with verdure and beauty. Hence the difficulty of
selection is as great as it seems almost needless.
But the following may be warranted as among the
best wall-clothers.

First of all there are the climbing varieties of such
well-known Roses as—

Captain Christy, Charles Lefebvre, Edouard Morren,
Jules Margottin, Bessie Johnson, Mdlle, Eugénie
Verdier, and Victor Verdier.

Anna Alexeff.—Bright rose, large and free.

Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild.—A bright rosy-
crimson.

Brightness of Cheshunt.—Bright scarlet, fine form.

Boule de Neige.—The very best white Perpetual
for a wall, small but exquisite in form and frag-
rance, flowering in bunches throughout the season.

Baroness Rothschild—Pale rose, shaded white,
robust, but not a fast grower.

Baron Bonstetten.—Rich dark velvety-crimson.

Camille Berardin.—Light crimson, often shaded
with white, striking and most effective.

Charles Lefebvre—As good, though not quite such
a rapid grower, as the climbing variety of the best of
all the darkest red or velvety-purple Roses.

Comtesse de Serenzi.—Light rosy-pink, fine form,
large. ‘

Countess of Rosebery.—Rich soft carmine-rose.

Duchesse de Vallombrosa.—Soft rosy-peach, melting
with age into French white; good.

Duke of Connaught.—Rich velvety-crimson, very
brilliant, rather small.

Duke of Edinburgh.—This well-known, popular,
rich vermilion Rose is an excellent grower, with
clean and beautiful foliage.

Emily Laxton.—Bright rose-coloured.

Edouard Morren.—Large, deep cherry-coloured.

Fisher Holmes.—Brilliant scarlet, rich, open.

Glory of Cheshunt,—Rich and vivid shaded crimson.

General Jacqueminot.—One of the oldest and still
the best among the brilliant crimson-scarlets.

Helen Paul.—Good white, occasionally suffused
with pink.

John Bright.—Pure glowing crimson.

Jules Margottin.—Bright carmine, one of the
finest, and best autumnal Roses on walls.

John Hopper.—Delicate rosy-crimson; a general
favourite.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

La France.—The best of all the silvery - pink
Roses, and in bloom on a wall from May to Decem-
per; an ever-growing, long-blooming, almost ever-
green Rose, combining in itself the fragrance of all
the others; no wall must be without this Rose, and
if there is only room for one Rose, let La France be
that one.

La Duchesse de Morny.—A soft mixture of rose
and silver,

Madame Victor Verdier.—Large and full, deep
carmine. ;

Mad Clé: Joigneaux.—Very sweet rose,
shaded lilac, large and full.

Madame Lacharme.—Pure white, large and full;
needs a wall‘in many localities to do it justice.

Madame Nachury.—Light silvery - rose, deeply
cupped.

Malle. Annie Wood.—Large and full, rich clear red.

Maréchal Vaillant.—Bright crimson, very profuse
bloomer.

Marchioness of Exeter.—Clear bright cherry-rose.

Maurice Berardin. —Rich vermilion, very tine, and
similar to Ferdinand de Lesseps, Sir Garnet Wolse-
ley, and Exposition de Brie; the number of aliases
in this instance being proofs of excellency.

Monsieur Noman, — Perfect form, large, rose-
coloured.

Merveille de Lyon.—The best and most vigorous of
all the white sports from the Baroness Rothschild.
Better than the White Baroness or Mabel Morrison.

Mr. Harry Turner.—Bright crimson-scarlet, with
rich maroon shading.

Paul Neron.—The largest of all Roses, coarse in
summer, but worth a wall for the more moderate-
sized and good-shaped bloom it yields in autumn;
deep rose-coloured.

Prince Arthur.—Deep rich crimson, rather small,
but brilliant and beautiful.

Prince Camille de Rohan.—This is too well known
as the deepest, darkest, and most fragrant of all the
black-crimson velvet Roses to need further descrip-
tion.

Red-Gauntlet.—Scarlet-crimson, shaded rose.

Souvenir de Mons. Boll.—Bright cerise, large, full.

Star of Waltham. —Deep crimson, with very firm
foliage.

Robert Marnock.—Brownish- crimson, rich and
good.

Sultan of Zanzibar.—Dark maroon, a sort of in-
termediate colour and ‘character between Duke of
Edinburgh and Reynold’s Hole, and equal to either,
excepting in size. Reynold’s Hole should also be
grown.

Thomas Mills.—One of the brightest and freest of
the bright crimson Roses, not very large.

Violette Bouyer,—A most pure white.

THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE.

W. Wilson Saunders.—Intense crimson, good and
showy.

OTHER KINDS.

Among hybrid Teas, Cheshunt Hybrid, a rich, freo-
flowering, rampant-growing, cherry-carmine Rose, is
a host in itself.

Reine Marie Henriette has been called a red Gloire
de Dijon, and is a Rose of similar character, and of
a deeper cherry-red. The buds are also longer and
more pointed. _

Cannes la Coquette.—Light salmon-pink, some-
thing in the way of La France.

Some of Mr. Bennett’s pedigree Roses promise to
be useful for walls, though several of them have
wnolly failed in the open air. The following are
the most promising and latest additions to these,
though they have far more of the Tea than the
Hybrid Perpetual in their character and constitu-
tion :—

Countess of Pembroke.—A cross between President
and Charles Lefebvre; of a soft rose-colowr and
fully scented.

Lady Mary Fitzwilliam.—A cross between Devoni-
ensis and Victor Verdier; a delicate flesh-coloured,
good Rose. :

Distinction.—A cross between Mme. de St. Joseph
and Mdlle. Eugénie Verdier; soft shaded peach; a
good grower.

Princess of Wales.—A cross between Adam and
Eliza Sauvage ; colour a unique rosy-yellow; long,
pointed buds; opens well, good form. .

The Tea Roses shall have a wall to themselves;
suffice it to name among Roses on walls the Climbing
Devoniensis, Gloire de Dijon, and Gloire de Bordeaux,
or Pink Glory, as it is often called. These possess
a vigour and power of blooming that enable them
to mount and cover the loftiest walls in the briefest
space of time. The bulk of the family of Teas
are, however, reserved for furnishing whole walls of
Roses. :

Walls of Roses.—The building of new walls
for, and the devoting of old ones wholly to Roses,
is one of the latest developments of taste, civilisation,
and commercial enterprise in horticulture. Like
many fashions, however, it is less of a new invention
than a revival. The furnishing material is more or
Jess novel, but floral walls are,.or were, one of the
oldest features of English horticulture. Jasmines,
Honeysuckles, Clematis, or other plants too fragile or
tender to stand alone, were aided by the strength
and nurtured by the warmth of stone and brick walls.
To help the plant the -better to battle successfully
against climatic difficulties, these walls were not
seldom heated. By such means magnificent displays
of all the more tender as well as the best species of

285

Magnolias, and other tender shrubs or trees, have
been grown and bloomed successfully.

Varieties.—No plant, or flower, can better de-
serve a wall than the Tea Roses, while none can
match them in fragrance or beauty. And there ave
many of them, such as Marie Van Houtte, Catherine
Mermet, &c., that eclipse the golden riches of
Maréchal Niel by their delicacy of colour and per-
fection of form.

Anna Ollivier.—Rosy flesh-colour, large and full.

Adrienne Christophe.—Rich mixture of copper,
apricot, and peach.

Alba rosea.— White, with rose centre; one of the
hot Amazons, elegant, deep lemon-coloured; bud
valuable for cutting.

Aline Sisley.— Purple and bright red colour—
almost new.

Belle Lyonnaise.—Deeper than Gloire de Dijon.

Beauté de UV Europe.—Deep yellow, reverse of petal
coppery. [de Dijon.

Bouquet @’Or.—Deep fawn and yellow, like Gloire

Bride.—A pure white Catherine Mermet.

Catherine Mermet.—A lovely variety, large and
perfect in form, light flesh-coloured.

Comtesse de Nadaillae.—Rich apricot-yellow.

Comtesse Riza du Pare.—Pink with coppery base,
best as a rule on a wall.

Coquette de Lyon.—Soft canary-yellow, fine form.

Devoniensis.—Grows more freely on a wall; no-
thing can exceed its soft mixture of rose and cream,
nor its exquisite fragrance. Also the climbing
variety.

Duchess of Edinburgh.—The deepest-coloured of
all Teas, crimson, very floriferous, in the way of the
old China.

Eliza Sauvage.—Large and fine, yellow-rose, with
orange centre.

Etoile de Lycn.—Bright sulphur, excellent form.

Homere.—Blush, mottled with pink, very vigorous,
covers the highest wall in a very short time.

Honourable Edith Gifford—Something like De-
voniensis; white, tinted rose, extra fine.

Innocente Pirola.—Pure white, tinted rose, chaste
and charming.

Isabella Sprunt.—One of the most profuse bloomers,
thin when open, but exquisite in bud, most useful
for button-holes, deep yellow colour.

Jean Ducher.—Large, full, of good form, yellow
and salmon, splashed with peach.

Jules Finger.—This fine Rose has been called a red
Catherine Mermet.

La Boule a’ Or requires a south wall fully to develop
its beauty; pale yellow, with deep orange centre.

Le Mont Blane.—White, slightly suffused with
yellow.

286

Letty Coles.—A pink sport of one of the most
beautiful of all Tea Roses, of the Madame Willermoz
type.

Madame Angéle Jacquier.—Copper-coloured yellow,
with bright pink centre.

Madame Bravy.—A very rich and beautiful variety,
cream-coloured.

Madame Berard.—Large .reflexed flower of a
shaded salmon-colour. :

Madame Falcot.—Rich orange-yellow, better than
Safrano, best in bud.

Madame Welch.—Light yellow, with orange centre.

Madame Denis.—White, with sulphur centre, one
of the most vigorous.

Madame Etienne Levet.—Deep red, with coppery-
yellow centre, one of the richest and best.

Madame Cusin.—Light purple, the base of each
petal being yellow, pretty pointed bud, very distinct.
"Madame Wiliermoz.—One of the finest of all the
Teas, white, with salmon centre, very double, and of
perfect form.

Madame Eugéne Verdier—One of the richest and
deepest-coloured of all the Gloire de Dijon sports or
seedlings.

Madame Hippolyte Jamain.— White, with yellowish
centre.

Madame Margottin.—Deep crimson, with rich rosy-
peach centre,

Madame Maurin.—White, shaded with salmon,
full and large.

Madame de Watteville—A fine new rose, tulip-
shaped, salmon, bordered with rose. :

May Paul.—A red Tea; a refined and more flori-
ferous Gloire de Bordeaux.

Monsieur Furtado.—A decided improvement on
Narcisse; soft pale yellow.

Marie Sisley. -— Yellowish-white, fringed with
rose.

Marie Fan Houtte.—The richest and most delicate
combination of yellow and peach to be found among
Roses.

Maréchal Niel.—So deep and full of gold and of
fragrance as to deserve the whole of any wall to
itself.

Niphetos.—Worthy to run abreast with the Maré-
chal Niel as the finest pure white Rose in-doors or
out. Grown on a south or west wall, it blooms

most profusely, and the outside of its Magnolia-
like shaped and substantial petals is often surface-
painted with pink that even adds to their beauty.
Niphetos is generally described as pale yellow, but
in the garden or under glass the yellow is blanched
out of it, and it is the whitest of all white Roses, as
well as the best.

Perfection de Monplaisir.Very free - flowering ;
decp yellow.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Perle de Lyon.—Rich yellow, large and full.

Perle des Jardins.—This rather new, bright straw-
coloured Rose is so beautiful as to warrant its ambi-
tious name.

Rubens.— Something in the way of Adam and Pre-
sident, which are so nearly alike as to have become
one in show-stands, but having more white and
less rose in it than either; Rubens also grows and
blooms freely.

Safrano is still one of the most popular and flori-
ferous of the orange-yellow Roses,

The coppery-red Rose, Safrano 4 Fleur Rouge, is
almost equally worthy of a place on the wall, both
being perfect in bud.

Sombreuil.—Still one of the best pure white Roses,
flowering in large bunches.

Souvenir d’ Elise.--The very best of all the cream
and rose Teas, though these may be said to be the
prevailing colours among Roses.

Souvenir de Madame Pernet.—Large, globular, rose-
coloured.

Souvenir de Paul Neron.—Fine, double, yellowish,
bordered with rose.

Souvenir d’un Ami.—One of the best selfs among the
Teas; almost a pure rose-colour, with a dash of salmon.
Souvenir de Thérése Levet.—A crimson Niphetos.

Triomphe de Guillot fils.— Large and fragrant;
fawn, tinted with salmon.

Vicomtesse de Cazes.—A rich mixture of yellow and
orange,-fringed with copper.

New fragrant pedigree Roses for walls :—Countess
of Pembroke, pinkish; Earl of Pembroke, crimson;
Heinrich Schultheis, pink-rose ; Mrs. John Laing, soft
pink; The Puritan, yellowish -white; Viscountess
Folkestone, creamy-pink ; William F. Bennett, crimson,
lemon-scented. Other Roses worth trying on walls,
not fragrant :—Her Majesty, Princess Beatrice, and Ye
Primrose Dame. Two other new and fragrant Roses :—
Lady Helen Stuart, h.p.,crimson-scarlet, and Triomphe
des Noisettes, bright Roses, flowering in clusters.

FERNS.

By James Britten, F.L.S.

The Hymenophyllums.—Probably but few
plant-lovers would: be found to dispute the asser-
tion that in the whole kingdom of ferns there are
no more beautiful and interesting plants than
the Hymenophyllums and their near allies, the
Trichomanes. The two genera just named, and
Todea—which has already been treated in this work
—constitute what are popularly known as “filmy
ferns.’ Now that the general requirements of thcse
wonderfully delicate-fronded subjects are better un-
derstood, there seems no reason to doubt that before

FERNS.

long their cultivation will extend considerably. A
large collection can be grown in a comparatively
small structure, and will thrive with very little
attention, provided that the essential conditions
obtain, viz., continuous shade and moisture.

Hymenophyllums are found in all temperate and
tropical climates, and, according to the ‘Synopsis
Filicum,” there are about eighty species. Various
authors, however, with very different views as
to the limitation of genera and species, consider
that Hymenophyllum and Trichomanes—as under-
stood here—comprise no less than some two dozen
genera; the eighty species of Hymenophyllum, too,
are by the same writers multiplied into more than
five times that number. Many of the species are
almost ubiquitous—the two representatives of the
genus in the British flora may be cited as exam-
ples—and, as is almost sure to be the case, they
exhibit a very considerable range of variation in
size, habit, &c., according to the widely-different
conditions as to temperature, &c., under which they
exist. These purely geographical forms are regarded
as distinct species by many botanists.

The principal character by which Hymenophyl-
lum may be distinguished from Trichomanes, resides
in the involucre; that of the first-named genus being
two-valved, whilst in the latter it is united into a
cup. Both affect moist, shady places, near water-
falls, trunks of trees, and dripping rocks.

The following selection comprises some of the
best and most distinct species in cultivation.

4. eruginosum is a rare species, « native of the
island of Tristan d’Acunha; the tripannitifid, co-
piously hairy fronds measure some two or three
inches in length, by an inch or less in breadth; in
outline they are lanceolate or ovate-pointed.

HT. asplenioides, from tropical America, is easily
recognisable by its peculiar habit of growth; it has
rather large pendulous fronds, oblong in general
outline, and pinnatifid to within a short distance of
the rachis; the stipe is from one to two inches
long, and the frond from two to four inches long, by
half an inch to an inch broad.

HH. ciliatum is very widely distributed throughout
the tropical regions of both hemispheres, and has
lately been found in New Zealand ; it is a free-
growing, handsome species, with fringed and
winged stipes, one or two inches long, and oblong-
acuminate, tripinnatifid fronds, two to six inches
long, and one to two inches broad at the centre; a
magnificent variety of this, splendidum, which occurs
in Guatemala, Ecuador, and west tropical Africa,
has fronds a foot in length.

H. demissum is one of the most beautiful species
of the genus, as well as one of the easiest to manage ;
the firm, erect, wingless stipes are from four to six

287

inches long, and the finely cut ovate-triangular
fronds, which are light green when young and a
very dark glossy green when mature, measure from
four to twelve inches or more in length, by three or
four inches in breadth. It is a native of New
Zealand, Fiji, Java, the Philippines, and adjacent
Polynesian Islands.

HH. flabellatum, from Australia, New Zealand, and
Lord Auckland Isles, is a near ally of the last-
named. It has glistening, glossy green, ovaie-
pointed, thrice-cut fronds, from four to twelve
inches long, by two to four inches broad.

HH. fuciforme is a strikingly distinct species, from
South Chili and Juan Fernandez. It has strong,
erect stipes, four to eight inches long, narrowly
winged above; and beautiful, bluish-green, wavy,
triangular lance-shaped, thrice-cut fronds, one to
two feet in length, by four to six inches in breadth.

HI, hirsutum, a native of tropical America and
Madagascar, &c., has once-cut, hairy, linear-oblong
fronds, two to six inches long, by half an inch
broad. It forms a dense, compact carpet of delicate
fronds, of a peculiar brownish-green hue.

HH. lineare has flaccid, pendulous, long, narrow
fronds, and forms densely interlaced masses on rocks
and trees. Itisa native of tropical America, from
Jamaica and Mexico, southward to Brazil ana
Peru, ascending on the Andes of Ecuador to 12,000
feet, and also occurs in the Mauritius.

HH. polyanthemos has slender, wingless stipes, two
or three inches long, and thrice-cut, ovate-oblong,
smooth, dark green fronds two to eight inches long,
by one to three inches broad. It is found every-
where throughout the tropics.

H. pulcherrimum is a very handsome New Zea-
land species, with ample, finely-cut, firm, bright
green, glossy fronds, ovate-triangular in outline,
ard measuring from six to twelve inches or more in
length, by four to six inches in breadth.

H. tunbridgense, once abundant at Tunbridge
Wells, is widely distributed throughout the British
Islands; the extra-British distribution is Belgium,
France, Germany, Italy, Canaries, and south tem-
perate regions. It has an ovate frond, pinnate
below and pinnatifid above, with spreading spinulose-
serrate pinnz, and toothed involucre.

The other British species, H. wnilaterale, has more
rigid, darker green fronds, which are oblong in out-
line, pinnate below or throughout, with decurved
spinulose-serrate pinnules, and entire involucre. It
occupies about the same geographical area as the
last-named.

Cultivation. Undoubtedly the essential require-
ments of filmy ferns are a fair amount of light with
continuous and absolute protection from every ray
of direct sunshine, and an atmosphere constantly at

285 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

saturation point. Soil, &c., is quite a secondary
consideration, and all the species above-mentioned—
although some of them hail from tropical climes —
are accommodating enough with regard to tempera-
ture, with the exception, perhaps, of H. asplenioides
and H. hirsutum, which do better under warm-house
treatment. None should be watered overhead, as
the fronds discolour when such a course is followed,
but luxuriate and retain their béautiful colour for
three or four years when each is almost always
laden with the condensed moisture of the atmosphere
in which they grow. Draughts of dry air should be
rigorously guarded against, as a
few minutes’ exposure to such
conditions would probably prove
fatal to the wonderfully delicate
pellucid fronds. Not a few species
require no artificial heat what-
ever, and the number of these
would probably be increased were,
experiments conducted to prove
their hardiness.

Some of the ‘finest specimens of
filmy ferns in existence (in culti-
vation) are in the possession of a
leading London surgeon, and are
grown under — at first sight —
unpromising conditions. Nothing,
however, can exceed the beauty
of these plants, which for some
years have had no artificial heat
whatever. The fronds are never
wetted overhead—although always
covered with condensed moisture
—and no air is ever given except
when watering is being per-
formed, and when other necessary work is being
attended to. During the hot summer days a spray
of water is kept playing on the outside of the shaded
roof, and this, by keeping the iron-work and glass
cool, prevents the temperature from rising to any
great cxtent.

Most of the Hymenophyllums succced admirably
on fibrous tree-fern stems (such’as those of Dicksonia)
—into which it is advisable to rub a little fine peat
before wiring on the slender rhizomes. Some do
thoroughly well on blocks of wood or on pieces of
sandstone. The British species do very well grown,
together with the small Mosses amongst which they
are found in a state of nature, against a wall of
peat, &c., to which they must be securely and firmly
fastened by wire-netting or some such contrivance,
Not a few of the species have been, and are now,
cultivated by a letter-carrier in one of our large
cities, without any properly-constructed case at all.
Barrels, &c., plunged in a piece of ground behind his

H. TUNBRIDGENSE,

dwelling, covered with sheets of glass, and of course
shaded from direct sunlight, furnish quarters in
which splendid plants have been grown, specimens
which it would often be difficult to match in esta-
blishments where unlimited means are available.
Unlikely as it may appear, the finest fronds of
HT, tunbridgense probably ever produced in England
are to be seen in the window-case of a dwelling-
house on the shady side of a crowded London
thoroughfare. The residence in question is that of
the surgeon above-mentioned, who has made filmy
ferns and their requirements « special study. The
same gentleman has H. demissuim
in magnificent condition under
precisely similar circumstances.
The window-cases used are to all
intents and purposes ordinary
ones, the only point in which they
differ from those in every-day use
being that they are double-glazed.
This double-glazing of course does
a great deal to maintain an equable
temperature, a most important
matter in connection with filmy
fern cultivation. A good many
of the species bear frost apparently
without any injury; a number of
them withstood 14° of frost at
Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons’, Chel-
sea, where for a whole fortnight
they were frozen into a solid block
of ice. When the thaw came they
were found in perfect health, much
better than plants of the same
species which had been kept in the
artificially-heated temperature of
another house. When watering, use a long-spouted
can, ana take care not to wet the plants overhead; the
condensed moisture in which they revel will be free
from the mineral constituents which often prove so
injurious to the membranous fronds. Now and then
the mycelium of various fungi appears amongst the
fibrous roots of the tree-fern stems; this can as a
rule be got rid of by a careful dusting of flowers of
sulphur. Thrips are probably the insect pests which
prove the most troublesome; but careful fumigating,
repeated several times if necessary, will be found
to extirpate them. If the cases, &c., in which the
plants are growing are placed inside a green-house,
fill the latter with smoke and then remove the lids,
&e., of the filmy fern cases. Sometimes, in spite
of the densely moisture-laden atmosphere, the red
spider makes its appearance; submerging the entire
plants for twelve or twenty-four hours in soft rain-
water will kill this insect, without injuring the |
plants. Such treatment, however, proved ineffectual

FERNS.

with thrips, as a recent experiment showed that
submersion for twenty-four hours apparently had no
effect ; the little creatures were particularly lively
and active after the trial to which they had been
subjected.

Practically speaking, Hymenophyllums are not
raised from spores. It is true that one very success-
ful grower has succeeded in raising plants of two or
three species from spores, but the method is an
exceedingly slow one. Vigorous growers are readily

289

From Hymenophyllum it principally differs in the
involucre being urn-shaped and not split lengthwise
into two valves. In both the spore-cases are clus-
tered around hair-like receptacles, which are, in fact,
the ends of the veins of the fronds projecting into
the urns. In Trichomanes it is usual for these
slender columnar receptacles to protrude more or
less, so that the fronds become somewhat bristly
when very full of fructification, and hence has arisen
the common name of Bristle Fern. On the other

TRICHOMANES RENIFORME.

propagated by means of the numerous thread-like
rhizomes; and some of the species, if the old fronds
are fastened down on a moist surface, become proli-
ferous, and develop plantlets which can be removed
when large enough, and grown on. Asa rule, the
plants offered for sale by nurserymen are imported
ones, and these require somewhat different treatment
from their arrival until they become established.
Much less light is desirable until the rhizomes begin
to push out new fronds, when the plants may be
gradually inured to the conditions which are found
suitable for their established congeners.

The Trichomanes.—In common with Hymeno-
phyllum, Trichomanes holds a high position in the
estimation of fern-lovers. The beautifully-cut and
pellucid fronds are different in texture and general
appearance from those of almost all other genera.

hand, these hairs are shorter than the involucre
in Hymenophyllum. There are many filmy ferns
which cannot be referred to either genera with any
degree of certainty without fructification.

In the “Synopsis Filicum’’ above ninety species
of Trichomanes are described ; they are principally
natives of tropical and damp warm climates, the only
European representative being the Killarney Fern,
TL. radicans. The species mentioned below are the
most distinct now in cultivation.

STOVE SPECIES.

A number of these, formerly supposed to be
exclusively stove kinds, have been found to do
better in a cooler temperature; they will be men-
tioned among the cool-house sorts. Those kept
under the above heading have not hitherto, I be-
lieve, been successfully cultivated except in structures

290

with a minimum temperature of 60°. Perhaps
further trials might still further lessen the number of
the warm-house species, and prove that with a little
care most of the stove Trichomanes might be gradu-
ally inured to, and succeed better with, green-house
treatment.

T. apiifolium is a very beautiful and rare species,
with finely-cut fronds somewhat resembling those of
T. maximum in general outline, but the habit is
more graceful and the texture more delicate ; the in-

> ane

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. ‘

lanceolate pinnate or pinnatifid fronds four to twelve
inches long by one and a half to two inches broad.
In texture these are membranaceous, the pinnw are
generally incurved and crisped, and the rachis is
more or less clothed with reddish-brown hairs,
This species is widely distributed throughout tro.
pical America, and has also been found in western
tropical Africa. TZ. macilentum is a near ally of
T. Bancroftii, from which it is distinguished by its
more creeping rhizome and more divided fronds; it

TRICHOMANES RADICANS,

volucres, too, are smaller and shorter, verging upon
those of the Hymenophyllum. In fully-developed
fronds, the strong erect fibrillose stipes measure
four or six inches in length, and the frond itself nine
to eighteen inches long by four to eight inches broad.
This species is now and then met with under the
name of T. meifolium, and is a native of the Philip-
pine Islands, Java, Polynesia, and Norfolk Island.
T. Bancroftii is a distinct and pretty species from
the West Indian Islands and tropical America
southward to Brazil and Peru. It has firm-textured,
dark green, ovate-oblong fronds, from three to six
inches long by about an inch broad; the rachis is
broadly winged and so is the stipe to the very base.
T. crispum has a strong, tomentose rhizome; strong,
wiry, tomentose stipes two to six inches long, and

is a native of Trinidad, Demerara, and the northern
provinces of Brazil, and succeeds almost equally weil
under stove or cool-house treatment. TZ. Prieurii is
a noble species with stout tufted stipes four to eight
inches long, and broadly-ovate, finely-cut fronds
twelve to eighteen inches in length by from six to
twelve inches in breadth; it isa native of the West
Indian Islands southward to Peru and Brazil.
T. spicatum is the only representative mentioned in
these pages of a small section, Féea—regarded as a
distinct genus by some authorities—in which the
sterile and the fertile fronds are different, the latter
consisting of a narrow distichous spike. The, dark
green sterile fronds measure from four to six inches
in length by one to one and a half in breadth, and
are pinnatifid nearly to the rachis.

THE BLUE BOLLEA (BOLLEA CCELESTIS).

A STOVE epiphyte from tropical South America,
belonging to the order of orchids. Pot culture will
most likely be best adapted to meet the needs of
these plants, for although, in common with most
other epiphytal species, they will no doubt grow on

a block with sphagnum, still pots, well drained and
filled with good porous material, composed of fibrous e
peat, sphagnum, and broken crocks or charcoal, will
_doubtless be the best medium for the roots to lay
hold of.

VATIOd N19 FH]

PSTLS AT re
WSaTLy vertog)

FERNS. 291

COOL-HOUSE SPECIES.

T. alatum, from the West Indies, Columbia, and
Brazil, is a handsome species with lanceolate or
ovate-lanceolate, twice or thrice-cut fronds of a deli-
cately membranaceous texture; it has tufted stipes
two to four inches long, the fronds measuring from
three to twelve inches long by one fo four inches
broad. In size and amount of hairiness this varies
a great deal; the larger-growing forms make very
beautiful specimen plants. TZ. auriculatum has a
strong, wide-creeping, hairy rhizome, and nearly
sessile, twice-cut, olive-green, firm-textured fronds,
six to twelve inches in length by one and a half to
two inches in breadth; it is a native of Japan,
Formosa, North Hindostan, the Philippines, Java,
and Guiana. T. ewxsectum, an elegant species from
South Chili, Chiloe, and Juan Fernandez, has a
widely -creeping, slender, tomentose rhizome, and
slender naked stipes one to three inches long, with
finely-cut, lanceolate, pendent, flaccid fronds of a
membranaceous texture; in size these vary from
six to twelve inches in length by one or two inches
in breadth. TZ. maximum is a noble plant with very
finely-divided sub-rigid fronds, which are ovate in
outline, and measure from a foot to a foot and a half
in length by six to nine inches in breadth; the
creeping rhizome is stout and the stipes are strong
and erect, varying from three to six inches in length.
This species is a native of Java, Borneo, and the
Polynesian Islands: Extremely unlike any of fhe
species hitherto mentioned is T. parvulum, a charm-
ing little plant which was first exhibited a few years
ago by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons at one of the
London shows; it has small, dark green fronds—
orbicular in general outline—measuring from a
quarter to half an inch across. These are cut intd
narrow irregular segments, and are produced in pro-
fusion from the wide-creeping interlacing rhizome ;
the plant thrives on pieces of porous stone. 7.
Petersii, a tiny species which is at present somewhat
rare in cultivation, has crenate or slightly-lobed
fronds—varying in shape from linear to obovate—
which make a dense carpet of dark green on the
moist porous stones on which the plant luxuriates.
The only locality given for this species in the
“Synopsis Filicum” is “near a waterfall in Winston
co., Alabama, U.S.A.” Z. pysxidiferum, a variable
species found everywhere throughout the tropics of
both hemispheres, is perhaps one of the most widely-
cultivated members of the genus; it has widely-
creeping, rather slender, tomentose rhizomes, and
ovate-oblong, thrice-cut fronds, one to six inches
long by an inch to one anda half broad. Perhaps
of all filmy ferns the Killarney Fern, T. rudicans, is
cultivated by the greatest number of gardeners,
amateur and professional. It has a remarkably wide

geographical distribution, being found in West
Europe, tropical Africa and America, Himalaya,
Japan, and Polynesia. In the last edition of the
“Student’s Flora,” the distribution of the series in
the British Isles is given as follows: “‘ Wet shaded
rocks, Killarney, York, 8. Wales, Argyll, Arran.” In
all probability the Bristle Fern no longer exists in
some of the localities just mentioned, owing to the
destructive zeal of collectors. ZT. radicans varies
somewhat in a wild state even in this country, and
to a great extent in the tropics, one of the more dis-
tinct of the numerous named forms which must be
referred as varieties to T. radicans being T. Luschna-
tianum, a handsome plant with lanceolate pointed,
quite sessile fronds.

T. reniforme, with its peculiar kidney -shaped
entire fronds, is quite different in habit and general
aspect from all the other species of the genus. It is
a native of New Zealand, and is the only Trichomanes
in which the frond has four layers of cellules. One
of the most graceful and delicate of all is T. trichoi-
deum, with thrice-cut, bright green, membranaceous
fronds, the pinnules being cut into distant hair-like
segments. When each segment bears at its tip a
drop of condensed moisture the aspect of the plant is
very beautiful. It is a native of the West Indian

‘Islands and Mexico southward to Ecuador and

Brazil.

Cultivation.—In a wild state Trichomanes grow
under very varying conditions in some respects,
though humidity and shade are in all cases pre-
sent. Some affect wet rocks, others stems of
various ferns and trees, whilst a few grow luxu-
riantly in strong loam. Under the widely dit-
ferent conditions which obtain artificially, these
latter do best in a pot or pan thoroughly drained
and filled with a mixture of loam, peat, pieces
of charcoal, porous stone, &c. Those, like 7.
trichoideum, &c., which seem to thrive best on
tree-fern stems, should have their delicate rhizomes
carefully attached to a portion of Dicksonia stem,
amongst the roots of which peat has been rubbed.
Others, of which ZY. macilentum, T. alatwm, and
T. Luschnatianum may be regarded as representa-
tives, thrive in pots or pans on a raised mound of
Sphagnum, or on tree-fern trunks on which living
Sphagnum has been bound. None of the species
should be watered overhead ; the case or structure in
which the plants are grown should be so liberally
supplied with water that the fronds are constantly
laden with the condensed moisture. Direct sunlight
should always be excluded; it has, however, been
abundantly proved that established healthy plants
do better in a good light than with dense shading.
Most of the remarks on Hymenophyllum cultivation
are equally applicable to Trichomanes.

292

FLORISTY’ FLOWERS.

By Ricuarp DEAN.

-The Pelargonium. —The common name of
Geranium has been erroneously applied to this
genus, but usage has gained such a hold upon the
flower-loving public that the Pelargoniums will be
known as Geraniums for years to come. The generic
named Pelargonium is derived from pelargos, a stork,
referring to the beak-like formation of the ripe seed-
pod. The common name is Stork’s Bill, but it is
seldom used because that of Geranium has been so
extensively employed. There are an immense
number of species and varieties in cultivation, all
green-house plants, some biennials and annuals,
some herbaceous, some tuberous-rooted, and some
evergreen shrubs, nearly all of which came from the
Cape of Good Hope. A large number of the Cape
species and varicties are still grown; but their cul-
tivation is confined mainly to those who make a
speciality of them. They form a very imteresting
group of plants, the flowers of most of them being
comparatively small in size, but often very brilliant
in colour. The leaves of many are beautifully
sub-divided, almost fern-like in character ; those of
others are deliciously fragrant. Pelargonium zonale,
the common Scarlet Geranium of our gardens, the
Horse-shoe or Zonal Stork’s Bill, appears to have
been introduced into this country about the year
1710; and Pelargonium inguinans, the Staining or
Scarlet Stork’s Bill, about 1714. It is believed that
the modern Zonal Pelargonium has resulted from the
blending of these two species.

The very fine and showy forms of what are known
as the Large-flowered or Show Pelargoniums, and
the Fancy or Ladies’ Pelargoniums, have, no doubt,
by means of careful fertilisation and cross-breed-
ing, sprung from the comparatively insignificant-
flowered species indigenous to the Cape of Good
Hope. How and when they originated it is very
difficult to state. Careful selection and successful
culture have done much; raisers in different parts
of the country have vied with each other in the pro-
duction of higher forms of excellence ; the names of
Catleugh, Dobson, Beck, Hoyle, Foster, Gaines, and
Turner deserve a record in this relation. We re-
member the Large-flowered Pelargonium of thirty-
five years ago: tho flowers small, ill-formed, and
wanting in brilliancy of colour; to-day we have
flowers of amazing size, perfect form, and brilliant
hues. So successfully indeed have they been im-
proved, that it seems difficult to imagine anything of
a more advanced character.

The Fancy or Ladies’ Pelargoniums are « more
delicate race, not so robust in constitution, and
needing a little different treatment during winter

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

from the more vigorous large-flowered varieties.
But they are wonderfully free of bloom;’ the
blossoms are finely formed, and generally of much
more delicate colours. Their culture is more re-
stricted than that of the show. types.

Large-flowered or Show Pelargoniums. — Beautiful
as these are, and so well adapted for green-house
cultivation, it is yet a fact that they are rarely so
successfully grown as they might be. We seldom
see healthy, clean, good-habited plants in gardens.
We too frequently see weak spindling specimens that
appear as if they were greatly neglected. Let us
endeavour to show how good specimen plants can be
grown if only they be carefully attended to at the
proper time; and by following the development of
the plant from the cutting stage until it has reached
a size qualifying it for decorative or exhibition pur-
poses, we shall thus see the advance and necessary
treatment at all stages.

Any nurseryman who makes speciality of the
Pelargonium does the greatest part of the work of
propagation by means of cuttings in the autumn.
When the plants have gone out of flower, they
are stood ina cold frame, or out in the open air,
until the wood becomes hardened or ripened, then
the plants are cut back somewhat hard, according to
their age; if one or two years old, tne main stems
are left two or three inches long; if they are older,
five or six inches long or even more, according to the
probabilities as to whether the shortened branches
will break again back to the trunk of the plant or
not. Out of the wood so cut away, cuttings can be
made; every single joint that is matured will make
a cutting, and this cutting will be pretty certain to
throw two shoots from the eye, one on either side of
the stem. The rule with cultivators is to break
away the weakest shoot, leaving the strongest, so as
to make a good sturdy plant. But we are, perhaps,
anticipating. Some persons put their cuttings
round the sides of a five-inch pot ; others make up a
bed in a cold frame and press them firmly into the
soil in lines. Where only a few cuttings are raised
it is perhaps best to place them singly in three-
inch pots, in all cases using a light compost in which
sand and fine leaf-soil play an important part. The
readiest way to root is by placing the pots of cuttings
in a gentle heat, and as soon as they show signs of
having rooted they should be removed to a cooler
house, and gradually hardened off. Then a shift
should be given into four-inch pots. This done, and
a few days allowed for the plants to become esta-
blished, the shoot, when it is about four inches in
length, should be stopped by pinching out the tip;
the result being that it will make three or four
breaks, which will be quite enough of leading shoots
the first season, if the grower would like the plants

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 293

to carry good flowers. Every time the plant is re-
potted the stem should be placed a little deeper in
the soil, as it not only imparts strength to it, but
prevents to some extent growths coming up from the
roots. The last shift should be into a five-inch pot,
and in this it may be allowed to flower. It is
surprising what a fine plant can be produced
in a five-inch pot. We have seen specimens in
Covent Garden Market in this size pot, having six
and eight leading shoots, and carrying splendid
heads of bloom; but these are grown by market
growers, and they give such plants special treatment
which cannot be given by ordinary cultivators.

Now should an amateur cultivator require a
specimen plant, say for exhibition next season, the
cultural process must vary a little. It should again be
shifted from a five-inch into a seven-inch pot, which
will cause it to break freely but flower late. But
the flowers will be smaller in consequence. Never-
theless, there is obtained a sufficient number of eyes
to form a fine large plant for the following season.
When the bottoms become two or three years old
they will require a little different treatment. They
must be shifted into their blooming-pots a little
earlier; those intended for flowering in May must
not be stopped at all; those for flowering in June and
July should be stopped once in February.

Successful culture depends so much on little atten-
tions constantly rendered—such points as compost,
shifting, stopping, tying-out, syringing, fumigating,
&c.; and experience is a most valuable teacher.
Young beginners can scarcely hope to succeed all at
once; but patience and perseverance can accomplish
much, and let the cultivator always bear in mind
that thorough cleanliness in every stage is most
important, enhancing the beauty and quality of the
flowers,

Soil is a very important matter in the culture of
this useful class of plants. That used by the leading
exhibitors of Pelargoniums is a compost made up of
rich fibrous loam, stable dung, and a little cow-dung,

. laid by a year previous to become thoroughly rotten:
these are well mixed together, and frequently turned
before using, and when employed for potting pur-
poses, some good leaf-mould and sufficient silver
sand to make the whole gritty are added. A little
experience is of use in the proper mixing of this
compost, this being a detail that is soon picked up
in the course of practice in cultivation.

Fancy Pelargoniums.—These are of much more
compact growth than the Show or Large-flowering
varieties; they are much freer in blooming, and a
little more delicate in constitution. The general
treatment of Show varieties suits Fancy varieties
pretty well, but they do not strike so freely as the
others, and they root best when the cuttings are

made in early spring from half-ripened shoots.
The plants grow more slowly also, and they require
to be kept warmer during the winter, but care is
necessary that the shoots do not become drawn and
lanky. Care must also be taken that they do not
have too much water at the roots; of this they are
very impatient.

A successful cultivator and exhibitor of Fancy
Pelargoniums states, in regard to this charming
class of plants, that ‘they may be grown to almost
any size by keeping the house moist and warm;
the plants like a little warmth, but plenty of air
should be given all day when it can be done, and the
plants should have plenty of room, else the foliage
becomes drawn. The peculiar nature of the growth
of the plant is to crowd it with shoots; therefore, in
the case of specimens, the outside branches should
be tied out to give the centre shoots all the room
possible. In potting, the plants need to be kept
higher in the pots than the large-flowering varieties,
so that what is termed the ‘collar’ of the plant be
kept level with the surface of the mould. Great
attention should be paid to watering. It is better
to find six plants too dry than one too wet. There is
a remedy for the first evil, but none for the latter.
The roots, being of a much finer character than
those of the more robust large-flowering sorts,
cannot endure an excess of moisture.” We may
add that Fancy Pelargoniums, being so free of
bloom, are well adapted for making the stage of the
flowering house very gay. The last time for repot-
ting should be regulated by thé month in which the
cultivator wishes to have the plants at their best.
If early flowers are required, the plants should have
their last shift not later than October, and they
should not be allowed too much root-room in the
pots. A seven-inch pot is, as a general rule,
large enough, but something depends upon the
plants. If bloom is desired at a later period, the
specimens can be had at their best during the month
of July by giving them a good shift in Match. To
retard the bloom of the plants, the points of the
shoots may be pinched out, and this is a desirable
plan when the specimens are thin of branches, as it
causes them to break into growth freely, making
large plants that flower later.

The soil for Fancy Pelargoniums differs from that
above recommended in that it is of advantage to mix
a little peat with it, and some broken oyster-shells.

Decorative Pelargoniwms.—These represent a large
group of sturdy-growing Pelargoniums of good habit
and profuse flowering, that are well adapted for de-
corative purposes in green-houses, conservatories,
and sitting-rooms. The flowers are not so well
formed generally as those of the large-flowering
type, but not a few cf them make fine exhibition

294

plants. Many of the varieties are of Continental
origin. The colours of the flowers are in not a few
instances bright and striking, and some of them have
the petals handsomely fringed. These are very at-
tractive, and great favourites. Their robustness of
habit is greatly in their favour, and we may truly
say of them that they are all good growers. There
are a few double or semi-double varieties, and these
possess this advantage, that they are much more
durable while in flower than those having single
blossoms.

Those of our readers who have attended one of the
large summer exhibitions of the Royal Botanic
Society in the Regent’s Park, or the exhibitions of
the Royal Horticultural Society at South Kensington,
or at the Crystal Palace, will have noticed the fine
specimens of Large-flowered, Fancy, and Decorative
Pelargoniums, sometimes measuring four and five
feet in diameter, These are from two to five years
old. They are grown by experienced cultivators
who give them daily attention; the shoots are
carefully tied out as they lengthen, and the utmost
care is taken to keep them in the very best condition.
Light and airy houses are required in which to grow
them. When one of these fine plants is cut down,
at the end of the summer, the frame of the specimen
‘is some two feet or 80 across, It then breaks into
growth, is taken out from the pot, the soil is quite
removed from the roots, they are carefully trimmed,
and re-potted in smaller pots, and a dash of silver
sand is placed about the roots. These cleansed roots
put forth fine fibres, and the plants are made new
again.

It is not an uncommon practice, in order to insure
large and vigorous-growing specimens of Fancy
Pelargoniums for exhibition, to graft them on free-
growing stocks of large-flowering varieties. Grafting
is done early in September, the stock being in
advance of the scion in respect of growth, and the
grafted plants are stood on a shaded border until
union is complete. Grafting when done by an ex-
perienced operator is invariably successful.

During autuma and winter the plants will need
special attention by occasionally stirring the surface
of the soil, and keeping them free from green-fly,
and in all respects healthy. But little fire-heat will
be necessary except the weather is very severe; as
much air as possible must be given on all favourable
occasions, and everything should be done that will
tend to keep the plants sturdy, short-jointed, and
the wood stout and robust. We have already stated
that the Fancy varieties require more warmth during
the winter. The cultivator need not ‘be alarmed at
losing a few of the bottom leaves, as this is a sign
of the wocd rirening, and the more thoroughly the
stems are ripened so will the quality of the flower

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

be improved the following season. We cannot
attach too much importance to the thorough ripening
of tho wood whcn the plant goes out of flower and
loses its leaves.

Now let us revert to the plants in four-inch pots.
We will assume that they have been grown care-
fully, kept clean from vermin, and that they have
flowered well. Then they should be stood out of
doors to thoroughly ripen their wood. When this
is accomplished they should be cut back, leaving a
symmetrical ‘ bottom,” as the growers term it, and
then kept rather short of water for a time. Then
they will break into growth, and as soon as they
show their first two leaves, the plants should be
turned out of the pots, the roots trimmed, and the
plants potted in pots only just large enough to take
the roots. The plants should be placed in a green-
house, and as soon as they are established the
shoots will grow. They should be stopped, and soon
after shifted into a twenty-four or sixteen size pot,
according to the dimensions of the plants, doing this
about the end of October or early in November. The
plants should now be placed on a light, airy shelf in
a green-house, where they can be preserved from
frost. They must not be allowed to be stopped any
more. By-and-by, in spring, the shoots should be
tied out to stakes so as to keep a good shape to
the plants; and as the days lengthen and become
warmer, they should be lightly syringed over, and
some weak liquid manure given occasionally. Those
who require to have their plants in bloom at the end
of June and in July would do well to re-pot again in
December, and stop them once more in January.
These plants must be kept as cool as possible, and
after April be frequently syringed. During the time
they are in bloom the plants must be shaded from
the sun, plenty of air given, and any injury from
damp must be guarded against. All dead leaves and
flowers must be kept removed from the plants

Zonal or Bedding Pelargoniums.—The various forms
of Zonal or Bedding Pelargoniums are from P. zonale,
the Horse-shoe or Zonal Stork’s Bill, introduced to
this country about 1710; and no doubt the blood of
P. inguinans, introduced four years later, has been
found of great assistance in imparting fresh and
decided characters to seedlings. They have been
found of great value for bedding purposés and pot
culture, and hundreds of varieties have been raised,
named, and distributed. At the present time there
must be several hundred varieties in cultivation; and
new forms are announced every year, though not so
numerously as a few years ago. Then this very
useful plant took a surprising hold upon the public
mind, and for several seasons it was all the rage.
It was largely used for masses and ribbon lines in
flower gardens; but since the system of bedding out,

FLORISTS’

in which the Zonal Pelargoniums played so impor-
tant a part, has been, to a large extent, abandoned, it
is now much more grown in pots for green-house
decoration, and especially for flowering during the
autumn and winter. All through the autumn and
winter months, fine young plants of Zonal Pelargo-
niums raised from cuttings taken the previous
spring will bloom freely, but to do so should be
grown by themselves in small, warm, airy houses
where the plants can have plenty of light and a
dry warm atmosphere. Messrs. Henry Cannell and
Son, the well-known florists at Swanley in Kent,
have been foremost in showing how well adapted the
Zonal Pelargonium is for flowering in winter, and it
is their practice to exhibit during the dark months
bunches of flowers of marvellous size, great beauty,
and wonderful colouring. They have adopted the
practice of running a hot-water pipe round their
houses, above the plant stage, and level with the
flowers. This gives just the dry warm atmosphere
required to produce the flowers in such splendid
form. Asa matter of course they are well attended
to in all other respects.

Some years ago the late Mr. Donald Beaton raised
arace of Zonal Pelargoniums that were designated
“Nosegays,” because they produced very large
trusses of bloom, but the individual flowers were
much smaller and less perfect in form than in the
ease of the newer Zonal types. What crosses were
used by Mr. Beaton has never been stated; but this
section soon became very popular, especially for
bedding purposes, as they were generally very pro-
fuse of bloom. Several raisers turned their attention
to the improvement of this section, and by crossing
the varieties with some of the better-formed Zonals
an advance in point of form was secured; but the
trusses retained the nosegay character. Eventually
a section was formed, termed Hybrid Nosegays; but
now so closely interwoven are the Zonal and Nose-
gay types that they cannot be separated. The
greatest credit is due to the late Mr. J. R. Pearson,
of the Chilwell Nurseries, Nottingham, for the
admirable work he did (which his successors are
continuing) in the way of improving the Hybrid
Nosegay section. He gave us good habits of growth,
robust constitution, large trusses of flowers of the
most approved form, novel and distinct colours, and
the utmost freedom of blooming.

All the varieties of the Zonal section can be propa-
gated with the greatest ease. Gardeners, who have
to provide a large quantity of plants, take their
cuttings in July and August, and put them into a
sandy soil forming a bed made up in the open
ground, or in boxes of light sandy soil which are
stood in the open air. They quickly root, when they
are potted off, one or several in a pot, to winter, or

FLOWERS. 296

they are kept in the cutting-boxes all the winter.
Or cuttings can be stuck in pots; and these can be
taken at any season of the year; but late summer
and spring are the best. In regard to wintering
Zonal Pelargoniums, damp is one of the greatest
enemies to their well-being; if only the plants can
be kept warm, fairly dry, and free:from damp, they
will winter in safety. They will not require a great
deal of water, but they must not be allowed to be-
come dust-dry, unless some frosty weather prevails.
When planted out in beds and borders, Zonal
Pelargoniums should not have too rich a soil, or they
grow too much to foliage, On the other hand, tvo
poor a soil results in starvation, and this should be
avoided. A richer soil is needed when the plants
are grown in pots; it is whén the plants get
somewhat pot-bound that they flower best, and
then they need a little stimulus in the way of
weak manure-water. ‘

There is now quite a large group of double-
flowered Zonals of various colours. The flowers of
the single varieties are not very lasting, and it is
customary, when cultivators exhibit plants, to drop
a little liquid gum into the centre of the flowers,
which makes them much more durable. This is also
done in the case of cut flowers sent to the market for
sale. None of the single Pelargoniums are lasting in
a cut state, and thus a little gum, carefully applied,
considerably prolongs the freshness of the flowers.
The double varieties are much more persistent, and
this is why they are taking the place of the single
Zonal for all cut purposes. They are also largely
used for house decoration, and exhibition purposes,
and it must be admitted they are most valuable.
They are of great variety of colour: crimson and
scarlet, purple, mauve and lilac, cerise, pink and
salmon, rose-pink, flesh-coloured and white. We
cannot too highly commend them to the attention of
our readers.

Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums.—These represent a well-
known and most useful section, the varieties being
the offspring of P. peltatum, or P. lateripes ; the
true Ivy-leaved varieties are of trailing habit, and
are chiefly used for vases and borderings out of
doors. Of late years a valuable race of hybrids
has been obtained by crossing the finely - formed
Zonal varieties with a view of obtaining higher
quality in the flowers. The results have been most
satisfactory, and that without affecting to any great
extent the trailing character common to the species.
There are now in cultivation Hybrid Ivy-leaved
Pelargoniums with flowers so striking in point of
size and colour as to be surprising. Double forms
are also produced, catalogues are rich in these, and
they make excellent decorative plants. The Pelar-

gonium Society (now unhappily defunct) made a

296 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

practice of offering prizes for specimen Ivy-leaved.
Pelargoniums, and plants were produced, mainly
grown as pyramids, large in size, finely cultivated,
and covered with flowers. For warm green-house and
conservatory decoration they are invaluable. Ivy-
leaved Pelargoniums require warmer treatment than
the ordinary Zonals; they-should have a free open
soil, and the pots should be well drained. Cuttings
will strike readily in a little heat in spring or in
early autumn.

Variegated-leaved Pelargoniwms.—There is a large
group of these divided into several sections. There
are, first, the Variegated Zonals, or Tricolours, of
which there are Golden-edged and Silver-edged-leaved
types. Then there are the ordinary Silver-leaved
varieties, the green leaves being broadly edged with
silver, cream, and white. Then there are the Gold
and Bronze, or Bicolours, in which the leaves are
golden, with rich, bronzy zones. All the varieties of
these sections are of the Zonal race, but the Bicolours
are all of more vigorous growth. Then there are
a few Variegated-leaved varieties of the Ivy-leaved
section that are very useful for bedding purposes.

It would appear that Variegated Pelargoniums
were known in this country nearly two centuries
ago. One of the oldest known was Mangles’ Varie-
gated; then came, after a considerable interval,
Lee’s Variegated, and it is from this latter that Mr.
Kinghorn succeeded, in 1848, in raising the well-
known variety called Flower of the Day, which
is still to be found in gardens. Soon after the in-
troduction of this very useful. bedding variety—viz.,
in 1850—the same raiser originated what may be
considered as the first Silver Tricolour-leaved Pelar-
gonium, which received the name of Attraction, and
was followed by Countess of Warwick, another of
Mr. Kinghorn’s seedlings. Then Mr. Grieve and
others hecame interested in the work. Several new
varieties were obtained, until Italia Unita was pro-
duced, in which a marked advance was shown. So far
the variegation had been cream or white. In 1844 ap-
peared a variety named Golden Chain, and this had
golden-margined leaves; but it is generally supposed
to have originated twenty years previously. Then
followed a series of varieties culminating in that
beautiful and useful variety known as Mrs. Pollock,
and from this came Sunset, Lucy Grieve, Mr.
Benyon, Lady Cullum, and others, raised by Mr. Peter
Grieve, Culford Hall, Bury St. Edmunds, which are
to be found in cultivation to this day. In the seedling
state all these were green-leaved forms, with a large
dark horse-shoe zone. When they reached a certain
stage of development variegation began to appear,
and presently the whole plant changed to this cha-
racter. This peculiarity is always noted in the case
of seedling Tricolours.

Soon after the introduction of the Golden Varie-
gated Zonals, there appeared an entirely new tribe
of Zonal Pelargoniums, designated Gold and Bronze
or Bicolour Zonals. The disc and margin presented
a uniform yellow, bright in some, dull in others, or
rather of a pale green colour, showing off to great
advantage the brown or cinnamon-coloured zone.
These were greatly improved, the golden-green leaf
character becoming more golden, and the zones
brighter in colour; and being generally of robust
habit, they made excellent bedding plants, and be-
came very popular.

Respecting the culture of the Tricolours, most of
which make good bedding plants, is may be stated
that they require a rich, light soil, They are not
quite so hardy as the ordinary Zonals, and when
used in the open air they should be planted a little
later. Cuttings of these root less rapidly than do
those of the common Zonals. They should be made
from well-ripened wood, and put singly into small
pots in July and August, keeping them in a gentle
warmth. ‘The Silver Tricolours should have a poorer
soil than the Golden ones, and they succeed best in
the open air when planted in raised beds. In pots
they need careful culture—never over-potting them ;
using clean pots, well drained; a light, rich soil; and
keeping the plants warm and free from damp. The
Gold and Bronze Zonals, being vigorous growcrs, can
have the same treatment as the ordinary bedding
Zonals.

Hybrid Pelargoniwns.—There is a section of these
that, in all probability, have resulted from the cross-
ing of certain species that are well adapted for pot
culture and for bedding. We may mention Rollis-
son’s Unique, crimson, very fine; Lilac Unique ;
Shrubland Pet, rose-coloured; Picturatum grandi-
florum, white; and Lady Mary Fox, scarlet. These
are all charming in pots. Then there are certain
Cape species, with their hybrids—the flower small,
but often produced in good trusses, and in many
cases brilliant in colour. Among them we may
mention Ardens, brilliant crimson; Blandfordianum,
with its pale green Oak-like foliage; Echinatum,
white, spotted red; and its fine hybrid varieties—
Spotted Gem, Rosy Morn, Beauty, Album multi-
florum, and Ariel; Fragrans, Schotti, &c. Any one
fond of species of Pelargoniums with scented leaves
will be charmed with Capitatum, Rose-scented ;
Citriodorum majus, Lemon-scented ; Apple-scented ;
Nutmeg-scented ; Prince of Orange, scented like an
Orange; Crispum, Citron-scented; and Odoratissi-
mum, richly fragrant, one of the best.

Seedling Pelargoniums.—The peculiar fascination
and interest which attaches to the raising of seed-
ling flowers, induces some persons to raise seedling.
Pelargoniums. It is necessary to raise the seeds in

FLORISTS’

heat, and they can be sown in summer ag soon as
ripe, which is the best plan, or in the early spring.
In order that they may germinate successfully, the
seeds when sown should be placed in a temperature
of 50° to 60°, and they will soon germinate, and
when they are large enough to handle should be
potted off singly into small pots, or be placed four
or six in a five-inch pot, and when large enough
potted off—using a fine, light, sandy soil—in forty-
eight-sized pots. In this size of pot the plants should
be allowed to flower. When seed is sown in August
the plants will not flower until early summer follow-
ing; when sown in spring the plants will bloom the
game season if grown on into size with attention.

SELECTIONS OF PELARGONIUMS,
Large-flowercd or Show Varieties.

Ambassador, Maid of Honour.
Amethyst, Margaret.
Brilliant. Martial.
Claribel. Outlaw.
Confessor. Pericles.
Cornet. Retreat.
Despot. Royal Review.
Duke of Norfolk. Sunbeam.
Fortitude, The Baron.
INuminator. Vetersn.
Magnate. Virgin Queen,
Decorative and Spotted Varieties.
Captain Raikes (double). Lady Isabel.
Carl Klein (double). Lucie Lemoine.
Decorator. Maid of Kent.
Digby Grand. Marie Lemoine.
Dresden China. Mrs. John Hayes.
Dr. Masters. Prince of Novelties
Duchess of Edinburgh. (double).
Edward Perkins. QueenVictoria (double).
Formosa. ‘Triomphe de St. Mande.
Gold Mine. Vénus de Milo (double).
Kingston Beauty. Volanté Nationale.
Fancy Varieties.

Ambassadress. Miss Goddard.
Bridesmaid. Mrs, Alfred Wigan.
Cloth of Silver. Mrs. Hart.
Countess of Dudley. Mrs. Langtry.
East Lynne. Nelly Fordham
Ellen Beck. Pilgrimage.
Fanny Gair. Princess Teck.
Indian Chief. The Shah.
Lady Carrington. Vivandieére.

Zonal and Nosegay Varieties (Single).
Alarm. Lucy Bosworth
Bayard. Mr. Chandler.
Charles Schwind. Mrs. George.
David Thomson. Mrs. Holden.
Dr. Denny. Mrs. Leavers.
Dr. Orton. Mrs. Moore,
Dreadnought. Nemesis. :
Ferdinand de Lesseps. Queen of the Belgians.
Future Fame. Rosa Little.
Guinea. Snowdon, |
John Gibbons. Sophie Birkin.
Lady Byron. Titania.
Lady Sheffield. Vesuvius.
Lizzie Brooks. White Clipper.
Lord Nelson.

Zonal Varieties (Double).

Auguste Villaume. ¥F, V. Raspail.
Charles Darwin. Guillon Mangilli,
Depute Laflize. Henri Cannell (Le-
Edward Lequin. moine).
Emilie de Girardin. Heroine.

FLOWERS. 297
La Candeur, i -
me en Maine Michael Buch.

Louis Buchner.
Lucie Lemoine.
Madame A, Baltet.
Madame Lemoine.

Madame Thiers,
Prince Noir.

Roi des Violettes.
Wonderful.

Golden Tricolour Varieties.

E. R, Benyon. Mrs. Henry Cox.
Florence. — Mrs. Pollock.
John.Downie. Peter Grieve.

Lady Cullum, Prince of Wales.
Macbeth. Sophia Dumaresque.

Marie Stuart. William Sandy.

Silver Tricolour Varieties.

Dolly Varden. Mrs. Laing.
Minnie Warren, Mrs. Miller.
Miss Farren. Porteous.

Mrs. Clutton.

Prince Silverwings.
Mrs. Col. Wilkinson.

Princess Beatrice.

Gold and Bronze or Bicolours.

Black Douglas. Prince Henry.
Distinction. Prince of Prussia.
Effective. Regularity.
Joseph Kirkham. Swanley Bronze.
King of the Bronzes, White Distinction.
Maréchal McMahon. Zulv.

Golden or Yellow-band Sections,
Creed’s Seedling. International,
Crystal Palace Gem, Robert Fish.
Golden Chain.

Ivy-leaved Varieties (Double).

Abel Carriere. Madame Crousse.
Alice Crousse. Madame E. Galle.
Comte H. de Choiseuil. Malle. Wouters.
Docteur Ox. Prince of Wales.
Gloire @’Orléans. Souvenir de Charles
Isidore Feral. Turner.

Jeanne @’ Arc, Vesta.

Konig Albert. |

Ivy-leaved Varieties (Single).

Argus. Mon. de Boringe.
Diadem. Mon. Dubus.

La France. Mrs. H. Cannell,
Masterpiece. Progress.

Pentstemon.—This is one of the most useful
and showy of hardy perennials, and it is a plant
that has been marvellously improved of late years.
It is a plant of foreign introduction, and the name
is derived from pente, “ five,” and stemon, “a stamen”
—four fertile and one abortive stamen. It has no
common name other than that which heads this
article.

The Pentstemon represents a large genus of her-
baceous perennials, very ornamental and among the
prettiest of summer-flowering plants. Some of the
species are of a sub-shrubby habit, but they are
rarely grown now, having given place to a large lot
of fine plants in the shape of seedlings raised from
P. Cobea, P. Hartwegii, P. gentianoides, and others, all
of which can be increased by means of cuttings and
seeds, The original P. Hartwegii produced flowers
of a kind of dullish crimson-purple, but seedlings
from it have developed many shades of colour,
from white to the deepest crimson and purple.

298

Some very fine species can still be found in old
gardens, such as P. ovatus, blue; P. barbatus and P.
Murrayanus, scarlet; P. digitalis, white ; P. Jeffrey-
anus, blue, and others, which are grown by lovers of
select hardy perennials.
English as well as Continental raisers have done
good work in improving the Pentstemon. Year
_ after year new varieties have been raised until they
have come to possess
vigorous habits of
growth, and to produce
large bold trusses of
flower of a singularly
imposing character.
The Pentstemon can
be increased by means
of seeds and cuttings.
Any one with but slight
conveniences can raise
seedlings. One requires
only good seed and
good soil, and if a
pot, shallow box, or
pan be filled with the
latter, and the seeds
sowed thinly, they will
soon grow, provided
they are kept watered
as required and shaded
from the sun. Those
who make a practice of
raising new varieties
of Pentstemons gener-
ally sow their seed in
heat about. the month
of February, and when
the little- plants are
large enough to handle
they are potted off,
either singly in small
pots, or two or three
plants placed round the
sides of a pot, grown
on into size, and then
planted out in a well-prepared bed about the end
of May, or earlier if the weather be favourable.
If the season is favourable to their doing well,
the main portion of the plants will flower in Sep-
tember. But as every lover of hardy flowers
may not have heat at his command, he must pro-
ceed more slowly, and the best thing he can do is
to sow his seed in March in a cold frame, bring on
his plants as soon and as strong as possible; and in
July or August avail himself of showery weather to
plant out in a bed, where the plants will stand the
winter and flower the following summer. The

PENTSTEMON GENTIANOIDES, in

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Pentstemon does well in a good sandy loam, enriched
with a little dung and leaf-soil, and in it they root
freely and strongly, and throw up strong spikes of
flower. While the Pentstemon is a hardy plant, it
suffers from too much wet during winter, and if
hard frost succeeds rain, many plants will suffer
or die. Therefore it is-well to plant out on a dry
soil, but taking care the plants do not suffer for
want of water during
the summer. It is
also prudent to keep
a stock of all the
finest strains in store-
pits throughout the
winter.

Some seed should be
saved only from the
best varieties, and by
doing this a good strain
can be preserved.

The Pentstemon can
be increased by divi-
sion of the root and
by means of cuttings.
The former method is
seldom resorted to; the
latter is that generally
followed. Cuttings can
be had in plenty at
the end of the sum-
mer from the young
growths put forth from
the main stems, and
if they are placed in
pots of sandy soil well
drained, and kept in
a cold frame, they will
soon make roots and
form good plants the
following spring; also
by potting the plants
of any good varieties
autumn, keeping

them in a cold frame
in winter, placing them in heat in spring, which in-
duces them to make young growths; and from these
cuttings can be made that will soon root in a gentle
bottom heat.

The following is a list of good named varieties
of Pentstemon :— :

Agnes Laing. Henry Irving.

Atlantide. Joseph Buchner.
Bridesmaid. Little Frank.
Candidate, Miss Salteau.

Diane. Mrs. J. Allen,
Edward Tate. P. Klein.

General Nansouty. The Favourite .
H. Cannell.

ORCHID».

ORCHIDS.

By Wittiam Hue Gower.

Colax.—aA small genus of Epiphytes, nearly allied
to Maxillaria; indeed the difference is so small that
few cultivators would find it. The caudicle in this
genus is destitute of a gland, whilst in the true
Maxillaria it is short, stout, and semi-circular. The
only species we shall include here is—

C. jujosus.—This plant should be treated as a pot

299

The genus is remarkable for its very long, double
spurs, which are sheathing, one within the other.
These plants require to be grown upon a block with
a little Sphagnum moss: they do not like full expo-
sure to the sun, but rather affect shade; water must
never be entirely withheld, as they cannot live if
they get any drying. Shady corner in the Brazilian
House.

C. coceinea.—This elegant little plant is extremely
rare in cultivation, and blooming as it does during

CoLax JUGOSUS.

plant and placed in the Brazilian House. Pseudo-
bulbs somewhat ovate, compressed, smooth, some
three inches high, bearing a pair of deep green leaves
at the apex, and several smaller sheathing ones at
the base; these are lanceolate, and taper to a point,
six to eight inches long, nearly two inches broad;
scape erect, radical, two to three-flowered; sepals
broadly-oblong, creamy-white, and waxy in texture ;
petals somewhat similar in shape, creamy-white,
but inside profusely banded with transverse bands of
rich velvety purple; lip small, white, striped and
spotted with bluish-purple. Spring and early sum-
mer. Brazil.

Comparettia.—A few small-growing but beau-
tiful plants make up this genus, which is named in
honour of M. Comparetti, a distinguished Tialian
botanist.

the dreary months, it seems to brighten up the plant-
houses. Pseudo-bulbs, long and slender, bearing one
to three leaves on the apex, scape issuing from the
side of the pseudo-bulb, near the base; three to seven-
flowered; sepals and petals small, yellow, edged
with scarlet ; lip three-lobed, side lobes small, mid-
dle lobe large and spreading, briiliant scarlet-orange
at the base; spur very long. Autumn and winter
months. Brazil. ;

C. faleata.—The leaves of this species are larger
than the preceding, and falcate. Scape three to six-
flowered; sepals and petals small; lip obcardate,
spreading, rich deep crimson. Spring and early
summer. Peru and Columbia.

Coryanthes (the Helmet Flower).—This name
is derived from korys, “a helmet,’ and anthos, “a
flower,” in allusion to the extraordinary form of the

300

labellum. Botanically, the genus is thus charac-
terised: — Sepals dilated, flexuose, conduplicate;
petals erect, much smaller than the sepals. Label-
lum large, unguiculate, galeate, continuous with the
base of the column, tridentate; column terete, two-
horned at the base, elongated, recurved at the apex,
two-winged. Anther two-celled. Pollen
masses, two, compressed, sulcate behind,
with a linear-arched caudicula, and a
lunate gland. These plants are all epi-
phytes, natives of tropical America, and
are found growing upon the tops of the
highest trees, fully exposed to the influence
of the sun’s rays. It is recorded that
these plants are always found in the com-
pany of ants, and that they grow in, and
derive benefit
from, their nests.
It occurs to us,
however, that the
ants, finding the
Coryanthes pro-
duce such quan-
tities of a liquid
so congenial to
their taste, estab-
lish themselves on
the branches and
round the pseudo-
bulbs of these
plants, it is there-
fore the Cory-
anthes that are
necessary to the
ants, and not the
ants to the Cory-
anthes.

A writer thus
describes the first
species intro-
duced : — “ From
the branches of
trees on Victoria
Hill, above Bahia, hang down little vegetable
buckets, into which a pair of stumps or fingers con-
stantly distil a sweetish, colourless fluid, which, drop
by drop, gradually fills the bucket. The fingers are
processes springing from the base of the column of
this Orchid; the bucket isa great helmet-shaped lip,
sustained by a stiff arm which keeps it perfectly
steady, so that the honey may not be spilt. The
column itself turns back as if to keep its head out of
the way of the drops, while the broad, membranous,
lateral sepals, resembling bats’ wings, turn quite
back, as if to unveil the singular phenomena which
the blossom presents.”

CoRYANTHES SPECIOSA,

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Coryanthes should be grown in hanging baskets,
as they are seen to much better advantage in such
a position; they are evergreen plants, producing
from their pseudo-bulbs, which are more or less fur-
rowed, a pair of plaited leaves some ten or twelve
inches in length. During the growing season they
require an abundant supply of water, but
afterwards sufficient only to keep them

~ from shrivelling; they must be exposed to
all the sun and light it is possible to give
them; peat and Sphagnum, in about equal
parts. Brazilian House.

C. Fieldingii—The species belonging to
this extraordinary genus have, to a great
extent, fallen out of cultivation. This
has arisen from their habit of dying off

rapidly, which,
we believe, is
caused by a sys-
tem of heavily
shading, which
these plants can-
not endure. The
present plant pro-
duces flowers of
a dull yellow,
mottled with rich
brown, and some
five inches in
diameter; it is
very distinct and
the largest of the
family. May and:
June. Brazil.

C.macrantha.—
This fine species
produces very
large flowers.
Ground-colour, a
bright rich yel-
low, spotted with
red, the conical
helmet being, in
addition, suffused with rich orange-brown. June
and July. Caraccas.

C. meculate.—In this we have a very distinct and
handsomely-marked flower. Sepals of a uniform
pale yellow; the hood is curved prominently for-
ward; pale yellow, the helmet suffused with light
purplish-violet, and spotted with a deeper: shade of
the same colour. June and July. Demerara.

C. maculata, var. Albertine.—Flowers large, sepals
and petals bright yellow, spotted with rich, deep
red; hood white, dotted all over with rose ; helmet
deep crimson, sparingly spotted on the inside, June
and July. Venezuela.

ORCHIDS.

C. maculata, var. Parkerii.—An extremely beauti-
ful variety; sepals and petals light yellow; hood
deep reddish-purple, the helmet being spotted with
the same colour. May and June. Demerara.

C. maculata, var. punctata.—In this variety the
tlowers are large, beautiful, and distinct; sepals and
petals bright yellow, dotted and spotted.
with red; helmet conical, rich orange-
brown. June and July. Caraccas.

C. speciosa.—This species, of which we
give an illustration, will show the strange
form taken by these flowers. The whole
flower is of a uniform pale yellow
throughout, and spotless, and the hood
is not curved forward as in the other
species. Spring and early summer.
Bahia.

C. speciosa, var. alba.—The flowers of
this form are of a uniform white, which
is quite destitute of spots. May and
June. Bahia.

C. speciosa, var. vitellina. — A variety
with rich, deep, yolk of egg coloured
flowers; spotless. Mayand June. Brazil.

Cycnoches. — The name _ signifies
.swan-neck, and is derived from the long
curved column ; the genus is a near ally
of Catasetum, and like the plants of that
genus, is subject to great variations,
which indced render it very difficult to
define the limits of a species. Cultivation
same as for Catasetuin.

Cycnoches are remarkable for the fact
that the same plants often produce quite
different flowers. In some cases the same
are not produced two seasons in succession: and
not unfrequently two kinds of flowers are produced
on tie same plant at the same time. The varicty
illustrated—the parent of many others—is an in-
stance of this. The following are brief descriptions
of some other varieties :—

C. aureum,—Flowers large and closely set, of a
uniform clear yellow. Spring and summer. Central
America.

C. barbatum (Polycyenis barbata).—F lowers bright
pink, spotted with red. Spring. Costa Rica.

(. Loddigesii.— This produces two kinds of flowers
rather frequently; in the most showy form the
flowers are large and fragrant; sepals and petals
green and purple; lip white, spotted with purple.
Summer months. Surinam.

C. pentadactylon.—The flowers of this kind are
large, and of a uniform yellowish - green, more or
less streaked with brown. Summer and autumn.
Brazil.

301

Cymbidium.—These are terrestrial vandaceous
Orchids, producing sword-shaped distichous leaves,
and forming in some instances short, stout, oval
pseudo-bulbs, which are enveloped by the imbricating
bases of the leaves. The scape ‘s radical, in some

species erect, in others quite pendulous, the chief

CrcnocHES WaARSCEWICZII.

character in the flowers being the
presence of two conspicuous curved
ridges on the labellum.

The word Cymbidium is derived from
Iymbe, “a boat,” and refers to a hollow
recess in the lip, and formerly included
numerous Orchids which had no claim
to be ass

Cymbidiums should be grown in
rough peat and Sphagnum moss. They
are plants which make a great quantity
of stout fleshy roots, and consequently
During
the growing season give a liberal sup-

sociated with this group.

require plenty of pot-room.

ply of water, and never by any chance
allow the thin-leaved kinds (such as
eburneum) to suffer from drought at any time.
Formerly the beautiful species eburneum was very
rare, and unfortunately it lost favour on account of
its being a shy flowerer; but then it was treated to

302

the hottest corner of the East Indian House. A
friend, when sending some plants home a short time
back, writes: ‘In the cold season they sometimes
have snow on them for a short time, but afterwards
they break up like Willows, and, when in flower,
they look like great beds of white Tulips.” Taking
this as a guide,.I have been able to redeem this
species from the bad character it had got as a poor
flowerer, and recommend Cymbidiums to be kept in
the Brazilian House; when at rest, even ina still
lower temperature.

C. Dayanum.—Leaves long and narrow, somewhat

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

margins, ivory-white, the base ornamented with a
broad band of yellow. It blooms during the winter
and spring months. There is another form of this
plant with rose-coloured dots on the lip. Upper
Assam.

C. giganteum.— This is a bold strong-growing
plant. Leaves ligulate-acute; scape erect, many-
flowered; flowers large; sepals and petals brown;
lip same colour, stained and blotched with purple and
yellow. Winter and early spring. Northern India,

C. Hookerianum.—In habit resembling the pre-
ceding species, but the dark green leaves are striated

CYMBIDIUM EBURNEUM.

resembling C. eburneum; raceme pendulous, many-
flowered; the ground-colour of the flowers is yellow-
ish-white ; sepals and petals streaked with purplish-
crimson; the lip is margined with the same rich
colour, and ornamented on the disc with numerous
reddish-crimson lines and streaks. Spring and early
summer. Assam.

C. eburnewm.—The leaves of this fine species are

narrow, arranged in a two-ranked manner, and’

bright shining green, acutely two-lobed at the apex ;
scape usually one-flowered, but frequently two are
produced; sepals and petals spreading, oblong-
lanceolate, nearly equal, thick and fleshy in texture,
and ivory-white; lip three-lobed, side lobes rolled
ever the column; middle lobe triangular, with wavy

with yellow. Flowers upwards of four inches in
diameter ; sepals and petals apple-green, about equal,
oblong-acute ; lip three-lobed, white, and lemon-
colour, profusely blotched, spotted, and dotted with
purple. Spring and early summer. Sikkim, Hima-
laya,

C. Huttoniii—This is a very distinct and most
beautiful species. Pseudo-bulbs three to five inches
long, bearing a pair of leaves longer than the pseudo-
bulbs, and upwards of two inches in breadth; these
are somewhat oblong, coriaceous, and deep green;
raceme pendulous, five to ten-flowered ; sepals larger
than the petals, recurved, and ovate; the former pale
brown, streaked and blotched transversely with deep
brown; the latter rich chocolate inside; lip three-

ORCHIDS.

lobed, green, with chocolate stripes. Summer months.
Java. The correct name is Grammangis Huttoni.

C. Lowianum.—A majestic plant, producing long
pendent spikes, which bear from twenty to thirty
large flowers ; sepals and petals apple-green, streaked
with light brown; lip creamy-yellow, lateral lobes
yellow, frond lobe blotched and bordered with rich
maroon. Spring and early summer, Burmah.

C. Mastersii—The leaves are longer and broader
in this plant than those of C. eburneum, which it
much resembles. The flowers are borne on arching
racemes, aS many as ten to twelve together; the
whole flower is ivory-white saving the lip, where it
is stained with pink; the flowers have a delicate
almond-like per-
fume, and last
in full beauty a
long time ; they
are admirably
adapted for de-
corating alady’s
hair. Winter
months. Upper
Assam.

C. pendulum,
var. purpureun.
—The leaves ot
this plant are
very thick and
coriaceous,
nerveless, and
deep green;
spike one to
three feet long,
pendulous,
many-flowered; sepals and petals about equal,
yellowish-green on the outside, deep reddish-purple
on the inner surface ; lip white, spotted and blotched

with crimson; disc stained with yellow. This isa-

very superior plant to the type. It blooms in
spring and early summer. Northern India.

C. tigrinum.—A rare and elegant species, which
has hitherto been found rather difficult to manage,
we imagine through having been kept too hot, as
it inhabits the Tenasserim Mountains, at an eleva-
tion of 6,000 feet. ‘The pseudo-bulbs are small and
ovate; leaves about six inches long; scape erect,
bearing several large flowers; sepals and petals
green, dotted with red towards the base ; lip three-
lobed, large; side lobes erect, reddish-purple inter-
nally; middle lobe broad and flat, white, marked
with numerous transverse bars of reddish-purple.
Summer months. Moulmein.

Cypripedium.—This genus contains one species
indigenous to these islands; its extreme beauty has,

CYMBIDIUM GIGANTEUM.

303

however, nearly led to its extinction. Like all other
native plants, this found its English name amongst
the people, and we now apply it to all the beautiful
tropical species which have been introduced to culti-
vation ; indeed, as Orchidaceous plants become more
popular there appears to be an increasing desire to
apply English names te them, and their singular
flowers have generally suggested a resemblance to
some insect or animal: thus we have the Butterfly
(Oncidium papilio), the White Moth (Phalaenopsis
amabilis), the Dove (Peristeria elata), the Cockatoo
(Angrecum Ellisii); whilst amongst our native
species we are reminded of their peculiar shapes by
such names as the Lizard (Orchis hireina), the Bee
(Ophrys api-
Sera), the Spider
(Ophrys arach-
nites), the Man
(dceras anthro-
pophora), the
Fly (Ophrys
museifera), and
the Slipper
(Cypripedium
Calceolus); the
large inflated
pouch-like form
of the labellum
evidently sug-
gested the
name Calceolus
Marianus, first
applied to this
plant by the
learned, and
hence came the popular name Slipper of our Lady,
or Lady’s Slipper, whilst the generic name comes
from Kypris, ‘ Venus,” and podion, “a shoe the
Shoe or Slipper of Venus.

Cypripediums are very distinct, both in shape and
structure, from all other genera; and the genus con-
tains a great many extremely handsome <necies and
varieties, the numbers of which are continually being
increased by fresh importations and the skill of the
hybridisers, upwards of three hundred varieties being
known as in cultivation. Many of these plants are
natives of quite cool places, Siberia and Canada
being rich in species; and one very peculiar form is
found in Japan, but by far the greater number are
found in India and the Indian Islands, and through-
out South America; the kinds indigenous to the cold
regions, however, are all caulescent and deciduous.
The species of Cypripediums here enumerated are
terrestrial and acaulescent, and are quite destitute of
pseudo-bulbs; their leaves are arranged in a dis-
tichous manner, and are mostly thick and leathery in

304

texture; in some instances they are beautifully
tesselated, whilst the scape rises from the centre of
the leaves, and is either one or many-flowered.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

pediums are great favourites in the horticultural
world, for their singular forms and beautiful colours
charm all beholders; then again, they have the

CYPRIPEDIUM CAUDATUM.

Some of the species included here, and which are
peculiar to tropical America, have been removed
trom this genus, and called Selenepedium, on account
of their having a three-celled ovary, whilst the
Cypripediums of the Old World have a one-celled
ovary only. It is not at all surprising that Cypri-

additional recommendation of being by no means

difficult to cultivate, for with ordinary attention .. ..

they very soon grow into handsome specimens, and
most of them will continue in full beauty tor many
months.

In potting these plants they should uct be elevated

ORCHIDS.

above the rim of the pot; the soil best adapted for
them is a mixture of two parts rough peat, one part
good leaf-mould, and one part chopped Sphagnum
moss; to this add a little sharp sand, whilst some
species like the addition of a portion of yellow loam.

The pots for Cypripediums must be exceptionally
well drained, for they
like an abundance of
water during the
growing season, and
as they are entirely
destitute of pseudo-
bulbs to support
them, at no time
must the supply be
cut off, although as a
matter of course less
will be necessary
when the plants are
at rest.

Cypripediums are
not much subject to
the attack of insect
pests, but scale will
sometimes fix upon
them; wheneverthese
are seen, remove at
once with sponge and
soft-soap and water.
But the red thrip is
their worst enemy,
and must be extermi-
nated immediately it
puts in an appear-
ance; this can be
effected with tobacco
powder as previously
recommended for
Aerides.

As a general rule,
these plantsare grown
in the East Indian
House, but the ma-
jority of the species
thrive best in a cooler
temperature; it will
therefore be necessary to specify these in the descrip-
tive enumeration, but all those not specially men-
tioned may be kept in the East Indian House.

C. Argus.—This is undoubtedly one of the very
handsomest of the Jarbatum section. ‘Leaves up-
wards of six inches long; oblong-lanceolate, tapering
to a point, pale green on both sides, the upper sur-
face beautifully tesselated with deep green; flowers
some five inches across, 2nd solitary; dorsal sepal
cordate-acuminate, the ground-colour white, with

44 1

CYPRIPEDIUM INSIGNE.

305

numerous purple and green stripes running from
point to base; the lateral sepals, like all in this
genus, are combined and are somewhat incon-
spicuous ; petals upwards of three inches long, rose-
colour, tinged with green towards the base, profusely
spotted and blotched. with purple, and fringed on
the edges with dark
hairs; lip large, dull
purple in front, yel-
lowish-green under-
neath. Spring and
early summer. Island
of Luzon.

C. barbatum, var.
grandifiorum.—There
are many forms of
this species, this
being one of the
best; the leaves are
oblong and bright
green, tesselated with
dark green; flowers.
large and solitary.
The ordinary form
has a small dorsal
sepal, and a smaller
and more pointed
pouch-like lip. This
variety is distin-
guished by its very
\ broad dorsal sepal,.
which measures some:
two and a half inches.
in diameter, white,
striped from base to
apex with lines of
greenish-purple or
port- wine colour;
petals warm rose--
colour, tinged with
green towards the
base, fringed on the
edges with purplish

Worty] hairs, and warty on

| Fees | the upper margin; lip.

large, the pouch broad

and obtuse, deep port-wine colour. It lasts long in
full beauty. Spring and summer. Malacca, &c.

C. caudatum.—As with most other plants, there are
several varieties of this species; the best form is.
C. caudatum roseum, distinguished by the large
and deeper rose-coloured lip. Leaves twelve to
eighteen inches long, carinate beneath, and plain,
shining green; scape many-flowered, flowers large
and showy, with remarkably long tail-like petals;
dorsal sepal large, and directed forward like a hood,

306

tawny-yellow, variously streaked and barred with
reddish-purple; the lateral ones combined, greenish-
yellow; the petals are the most remarkable feature ;
these are tawny-yellow, and are lengthened into

linear pendent wavy tails nearly two feet or more in-

length; lip much inflated, tawny-yellow, more or
less suffused with rich deep rose, or reddish-purple.
April to June. Cool part of Brazilian House. Andes
of South America,

C. chloroneurom.—This is a hybrid raised by that
enthusiastic lover of Orchids, Mr. R. Warner, so
long known as possessing one of the finest collections
of these plants in England. Professor Reichenbach
in describing this plant writes thus :—“ Leaves of
C. venustum ; very dark; flowers large, very shining
as if varnished; odd sepal light green, with darker
longitudinal and transverse veins ; pair sepals ligulate
acute, white with green nerves, very small and narrow;
petals divided by a longitudinal, purple-maroon,
broad streak, white with green nerves on side towards
the lip, green on the other sides, light brown to the
apex, with green nerves and Indian purple wart-
like spots on the basiliar limb, and some spots near
the base; lip’s sac very broad, with short blunt
lateral horns, light copper-coloured, with green
reticulations on u yellow border.” January and
February. Garden hybrid.

C. Druryi.—A fine addition to this family , there
are, however, several inferior forms. The finest may
be thus described :—Leaves oblong-ligulate, tapering
to a point, and deep green ; scape erect, longer than
the leaves, and densely clothed with ferruginous
hairs, bearing a single flower; sepals and petals deep
‘yellow with a chocolate band down the centre of
each, the latter dotted at the base with green; lip
large, obtuse, pale yellow. East Indies.

C. Dominianum.—A hybrid between C. caudatum
and C, Pearcei, one of the splendid results obtained by
Mr. Dominy in the establishment of Messrs. Veitch
of Chelsea, and is exactly intermediate between the
two parents. Leaves narrow-ligulate, plain green,
scape three or more flowered, all expanded at one
time ; the petals are much twisted, but broader and
not so long as in C. caudatum ; lip almost same shape
as in C, Pearcei, colour tawny-yellow, suffused more
or less with reddish-purple. Cool end of Brazilian
House. May and June. Garden hybrid.

C. euryandrum.—This is the result of a cross be-
tween C. barbatwn and C@. Stonei; it is a magni-
ficent flower, raised by Mr. Seden in the Veitchian
nurseries at Chelsea. We believe Mr. Seden was a
pupil of our friend Mr. Dominy, and when this
ilower first opened it must have made the hearts of
both rejoice. Leaves large, broadly-oblong obtuse,
and plain deep green ; scape three-flowered ; flowers
very large; dorsal sepal broadly-ovate obtuse, and

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

fringed round the edge with blackish-purple hairs,
ground-colour white, suffused with rose, stained
with pale yellow up the centre, and striped with
purple; the combined lateral sepal is smaller and
duller in colour; petals slightly shorter than
C. Stonei, but broader, dull port-wine colour, suf-
fused with tawny-yellow, variously spotted with
reddish-purple, and slightly warty on the upper
edge; lip large and bold, obtuse, deep port-wine
colour. Spring and summer. Garden hybrid.

C. Fairrieanum.—This exquisite small-growing
species is very rare in cultivation. Leaves oblong-
ligulate, some three inches long, and light green;
scape double the length of the leaves; flowers large,
solitary; dorsal large and somewhat cordate, fringed
and waved at the edges, ground-colour white, shaded
with green, and strongly veined from base to apex
with deep purple; petals at first deflexed, then
curiously curved upwards, oblong-lanceolate, white,
with greenish-purple veins, and ciliate on both
edges; lip large, extending forward, dull purple,
suffused with green. It succeeds best in the cool
end of the Brazilian House. September and October.
«Assam.

C. Harrisianum.—This is 4 hybrid between C.
barbatum and C. villosum, and both leaves and flowers
appear to be exactly intermediate. The leaves have
the bright shining surface of C. villosum, and the
tesselations of C. barbatum, but these are not so
plainly marked; the flowers are somewhat in the
style of C. vidlosum, yet abundantly distinct ; dorsal
sepal broad, dull purple, tipped with white; the
lower sepal smaller, and greenish-white; petals
broadly-ligulate, port-wine colour, the middle vein
being very dark; lip large, dull purple, tinged with
green. Spring and early summer. Garden hybrid.

|. hirsutissimum.—Leaves some nine or ten inches
long, strap-shaped, and deep green; scape longer
than the leaves; flowers nearly six inches in
diameter, solitary; dorsal sepal very broad and
cordate, green, suffused with purple in front, and
clothed with long shaggy hairs behind; petals
spathulate, the basal half undulate, greenish, the
edges fringed with short hairs, upper part rich
purple; lip large, green, freckled with purple.
April to June. Brazilian House. Assam (?) Java (?).

C. Hookere.—Leaves broad and obtuse, coriaceous.
about five inches long, dark bright green, tesselated
with white; the flowers are somewhat similar in
colour to those of the last-named kind; dorsal sepal
cordate, yellowish-green; petals slightly undulate
towards the base, where they are green, dotted with
purple; upper half rosy-purple, fringed all round
with short dark hairs; lip somewhat small and
blunt, yellowish-brown. Reichenbach, in describing
this species, says: ‘Flowers of Cypripedium hirsutis-:

ORCHIDS.

swnum and leaves of Phalenopsis Schilleri
nearly so.” Summer months. Borneo.

C. insigne—This fine old species still maintains
its place in our plant-houses, notwithstanding the
numerous species and hybrids introduced during the
past few years. Leaves ligulate, thick and fleshy,
pale green; scape longer than the leaves; flowers
large, solitary; dorsal sepal greenish-yellow; the
apex white and spotted with brownish-purple ;
petals green, suffused with brown, dotted towards
the base with purplish-brown; lip large, tawny-
orange or yellow. The variety Vaulei has a very
broad dorsal sepal, the largest half of which is pure
white to the apex; the basal half is spotted with
purple. Cool end of the Mexican division. Its
flowers are produced during winter, and last several
weeks in full beauty. Nepaul and Sylhet.

C. levigatum.—A fine but very slow-growing
kind; the leaves are ligulate, thick and fleshy,
nerveless, and bright shining green; scape double
the length of the leaves, three to five-flowered;
sepals large, broadly-ovate, white, the dorsal one
being striped with broad lines of purplish-brown
from base to apex; the coalescing lateral ones are
striped with green; petals lengthened out into
twisted tail-like appendages. some six inches in
length and a quarter of an inch in breadth, blotched
with brownish-purple towards the base on the upper
edge; white or greenish-yellow, changing to choco-
late, for two-thirds of their length; lip small, nar-
row-oblong, uniform pale vellow. Mr. Bateman, in
recording the discovery of this fine species, writes
thus: “Mr, John Gould Veitch found C. Levigatum
established upon the roots of the well-known Vanda
Batemanii, to obtain which was one main object of
his voyage, though he sought for it long in vain,
and had almost begun to despair of ever meeting
with it, when running his boat one day ashore in
the bay of a small island, he was delighted and as-
tonished to find the rocks by the coast covered with
huge masses of the plant of which he was in quest.”
Spring and early summer. Philippine Islands.

C. Lawrencianum.—tThis fine plant. belongs to the
barbatum group. The leaves are oblong-acuminate,
dark green, splendidly tesselated with yellowish-
green; the scape is sometimes two-flowered; the
flowers resemble the grandiflorum variety of barbatum
in some respects; the dorsal sepal is larger, white,
striped from base to apex with broad purple lines:
the petals are fringed round the edges with long
dark hairs, with numerous wart-like spots on both
margins; lip large, dull purple. Spring and early
summer. Borneo.

C. Lowii.— Leaves oblong-ligulate, a foot or more
long, some two inches broad, and plain dull green;
scape erect, much larger than the leaves, two to five-

, OF

307

flowered; flowers large and showy; dorsal sepal
pale green; petals long, spathulate towards tne
ends, where they are of a uniform purple ; greenish
towards the base, and marked with large blotches of
purple, and fringed round the edges with short
hairs; lip oblong, large and smooth, brownish-
purple. Summer months. Jungles of Borneo.

C. niveum.—This is a dwarf and compact plant,
and one of the most chaste and beautiful of the
whole family. Leaves oblong-obtuse, and coria-
ceous in texture, about six inches long, dark green,
streaked and tesselated with silvery-white and light
green; the under side dull reddish-purple ; scape
usually one-flowered, but sometimes it bears two
pure snowy-white fiowers, upwards of three inches
and a half in diameter ; in some varieties the sepals
and petals are freckled with purple and cinnamon
dots. Spring and early summer. Tambelau
Islands, Straits of Malacca.

C. Parishii—A very distinct species, nearly allied
to the very fine C. Levigaium, although not so
showy. Leaves eight to ten inches long, and up-
wards of two inches broad; strap-shaped, bifid at the
apex, dark shiny green above, paler below ; scape
more than twice as long as the leaves, bearing three
to eight of its long-tailed flowers; dorsal sepal
somewhat ovate, acute, apple-green; petals upwarus
of five inches long, twisted, upper part greenish-
white, blotched with purple, and ornamented on
the edges with a few hairy purple warts; lower part
of petals dull vinous purple, edged with green; lip
long and narrow, in some instances purplish, in
others greenish-purple and white. Summer months.
Mountains of Moulmein.

C. Roezlii—A very strong-growing plant, belong-
ing like caudatum to the Selenipediums ot Reichenbach.
The leaves are upwards of two feet long and two
inches broad, ligulate-acuminate, deep green on the
upper side, paler below; scape one to three feet
high ; it continues to grow and produce flowers for a
long time, but there are seldom more than one or
two flowers open at once on the same scape; sepals
yellowish, suffused with rosy-purple and green ;
petals long and narrow, spreading: in some varie-
ties rosy-purple, in others yellowish-green, with
reddish-purple margins; lip very long, yellowish,
freckled at the base with dots of red. It blooms
nearly all the year round. Summer in Peruvian
House; winter in Brazilian House. Andes of Choco,
New Grenada..

C. Schlimii.—This pretty little species is found
growing in cool wet places. Leaves eight to twelve
inches long, ligulate-acute, leathery, deep green:
scape many-flowered: flowers two inches in dia-
meter; sepals ovate-obtuse, white, tinged with
green ; petals a little larger, pure white, stained and

308

spotted with crimson at the base; lip round and full,
contracted at the mouth, white behind, rich rosy-
crimson in front. Peruvian House. Autumn months.
It grows at an élevation of 4,000 feet in Ocafia,
New Grenada.

C. Schlimii, var. albiflorum. — This very elegant
variety isan exact counterpart of the species, saving
its flowers, which are pure snow-white, except the
mouth of the labellum, which is ornamented with

CyPRIPEDIUM SPICERIANUM.

crimson rays. Peruvian House. Autumn. New
Grenada.

°C. politum.—This is another hybrid raised through
the skill of Mr. Warner, of Bloomfield, Chelmsford.
Leaves rather large, with numerous dark green
transverse marks; flowers equal to that of a good
C. argus; sepals triangular, white, with a reddish
wash; nerves green, Indian purple spot at the base ;
pair. sepals well connate, surpassing in length the
lip for a little space; lip’s face blunt, copper-
coloured, with green nerves in front, greenish on
sides; petals broad, ciliate, totally reddish at top,
the remaining part half white and half light brown;
the first part towards the odd sepal, with numerous
Indian purple blotches; the other one with similar
blotches and green nerves. January and February.
Garden hybrid.

CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING.

C. pardinum.—When not in flower, this plant has
much the appearance of C. venustum. ‘The leaves
are some six inches long, and about two inches
broad, dark green, tesselated with yellowish-green
above, stained with purple towards the base beneath ;
scape erect, longer than the leaves, two to three-
flowered, seldom one-flowered; dorsal sepal large,
ovate-acuminate, pure white, strea,_~ with bright
green from base to apex, every second viripe reach-

—

pasrariey

ing only half the length; lower connate sepals
smaller, but same colour; petals long and broad,.
standing at right angles, tapering to a point at the
base ; yellowish-green, dotted with purplish-black,
and bearing several small, ciliated, dark brown warts
on the edges; the ends bronzy-red, shaded with
purple, and fringed all round with short dark hairs;
lip saccate, yellowish, tinged with rose, and netted
with green veins. April and May. Moulmein.

C. Sedenii.—This is a beautiful hybrid, obtained
between C. Schlimii and C. longifolium. The latter
species, if not identical, is a very near relative of
C. Roezlit. It is a very handsome form, and almost
a perpetual bloomer. Leaves a foot or more long,
ligulate-acuminate, and bright dark green; sepals
and petals greenish-white, shaded with crimson,
with a few darker streaks; lip large, and much in-

ene

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

flated, rich crimson, suffused with a purplish tinge.
Summer months, &c. Garden hybrid.

.C. selligerum.— A hybrid between C. barbatum
and C. levigatum, and is a very handsome and
distinct variety. It is of robust habit, with broad
ligulate leaves; these have nearly lost all the
tesselations of the barbatum group. Scape erect,
two to three-flowered; dorsal sepal white, boldly
veined from base to apex with dark crimson; the
coalescing lower one is white; petals much de-
flexed, and slightly twisted, about three inches long,
white, veined with crimson, with numerous dark
warty blotches, and fringed all round with long dark
hairs; lip large and obtuse, vinous red. Spring
_and summer. Garden hybrid.

C. Stonei.—This is a superb species. The leaves
are ligulate-obtuse, about a foot long, and dark
shining green above, paler beneath; scape erect, as
long or longer than the leaves, three-flowered ;
sepals ovate-acuminate, the dorsal one largest,
white, stained with yellow, and streaked with
purple on the outside; petals slightly deflexed, some
five inches long, orange-yellow, blotched with dark
purple; lip large, with a curiously-shaped pouch,
ground-colour white, reddish-purple in front, with
deeper-coloured veins. June and July. Sarawak
in Borneo.

C. Spicerianum.— A small-growing species, not
possessed of brilliant colours, but a charming addi-
tion to the family. Scape erect, flowers solitary,
two to three inches in diameter; dorsal sepals pure
white; petals white, tinged with green, and streaked
with purple ; lip deep reddish-brown. It should be
placed in the cool end of the Brazilian House.
Spring months. Northern India. i

C. superbiens.—This species belongs to the bar-
batum group, and is the finest of that section yet
introduced. In English gardens it has obtained the
name of Veitchianum. Leaves strap-shaped, oblong-
obtuse, ground-colour yellowish-green, tessclated
with dark green; flowers very large, solitary ;
dorsal sepal ovate, tapering to a point, the lower one
very small, white, with numerous bright green lines
running from base to apex; petals oblong-obtuse,
three inches long, white, dotted and streaked with
dark purple, and fringed all round with dark hairs ;
lip very large, deep purple in front, passing into
brown beneath. Summer months. Java.

C. vexillarium.—The result of a cross between
C. barbatum and C. Fairrieanum. Leaves oblong-
obtuse, ground-colour yellowish-green, chequered
with dark green; scape one-flowered, the flowers
being about the size of the last-named parent;
dorsal sepal white, greenish at base, shaded with
light purple, and streaked with darker lines; petals
curved downwards, purple, slightly tinged with

309

green; lip large, pale brown, veined and shaded
with pale green, Summer months. Garden hybrid.

C. venustum, var. spectabile. —This is a beautiful
form of this very old acquaintance, which appears
to be the first species of the genus introduced from
India, The original form was rather dull-coloured,
and suffered from comparison with later discoveries
until it became almost obsolete. , This variety has
again brought the name of venustwn to the fore.
Leaves oblong-ligulate and acute, deep bluish-
green, tesselated with two shades of lighter green,
reddish-purple beneath; scape longer than the
leaves, erect, one-flowered; dorsal sepal ovate,
tapering to a point, white, suffused with pale green
and striped with darker lines of the same colour;
petals somewhat spathulate, white, streaked with
green, and broadly tipped with carmine, sparingly
spotted with deep purplish-black; lip greenish-
yellow, tinged with rosy-red. This species thrives
well under the same treatment as C. insigne. Winter
months. Sylhet. Northern India.

C. villosum.—A superb species, the last we shall
enumerate here, although the family contains many
other beautiful forms. Leaves strap-shaped, taper-
ing to a point, coriaceous in texture, and deep green,
slightly spotted at the base with brown; scape one-
flowered ; flowers large and spreading, measuring
about five inches in diameter; the dorsal sepal is
obovate, curved forward, green, heavily stained at
the base with deep purple, and veined in the upper
part with netted purple lines; petals unequally
spathulate, the upper half rich chestnut-brown,
lower portion greenish-yellow; lip large, yellow,
suffused with light brown, the whole flower having
the appearance of being newly varnished. Spring
and early summer. Moulmein.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

By WILLIAM EaRLeEY.

MONTHLY CALENDAR (concluded).
June.

AKE another and a last sowing of Broad Beans.
Early in the month stick Scarlet Runner Beans,

where this method of growing them is practised. On
the contrary, where the market garden system is
followed, keep every young shoot pinched back im-
mediately it appears, by which means very dwarf
free-fruiting rows will be assured. Make a final
sowing of summer cropping or main crop Peas.
The ground for them should be deep, rich, and if
possible cool. Should this sowing, in the exigencies
of successional sowings in order, happen to come
early in the month, then it will be well to makea

310

final sowing of the following also about the third
week in the month, viz.:—Ne Plus Ultra, Day’s
Early Sunrise, and John Bull. It is excellent prac-
tice during a dry summer to mulch late Peas. By
its aid moisture is kept in the ground, and the action
of the sun’s rays upon the surface of, the soil is neu-
tralised, to say nothing of the assistance it affords
in connection with all artificial waterings.

At no other season of the year is it so important
to give free use to the hoe as during this month of
June. By keeping the surface soil loose and free,
the beneficial action of the dews at night is accele-
rated. Equally important are hoeings following all
heavy rains, which level or beat down the surface
of the soil and so neutralise such results. Beyond
which, seedling weeds form very rapidly at such a
season, following all rains, and hence hoeing has a
dual or triple merit.

Where the most tender vegetables are in constant
demand, it will be desirable during a showery
period in the month to make again small sowings
of the following:—Early Horn Carrots, Turnips,
Spinach, Radishes, Lettuces, Endive, and such small
salading as Mustard, Cress, Onions, &c., for drawing.
A damp cool soil is the most desirable at this season
for all kinds of salad plants.

Any temporary covering such as hand-lights placed
over Ridge Cucumbers, Vegetable Marrows, &c.,
gradually remove; cut, dry, and harvest all kinds of
herbs immediately any show signs of blooming, at
which time they are ripe for the process.

Artificial waterings are very important during
the month. Unfortunately, it so happens that every
part of the garden calls loudly for extra attention
at this particular season, hence the great assistance
such artificial waterings are capable of cannot in some
cases be properly rendered. I would remark, never-
theless, that should dry weather intervene, no other
extra labour that could be applied would give better
results than such as may be applied to this one of
the artificial root-watering in season; and to hire a
man, or two, for a day about twice in the month
for this purpose would greatly repay the small outlay.
It may be added in connection with this subject that
weak manurial waterings, being so exceptionally
helpful to the roots, should be applied in all instances
where practicable. If but a bag of horse-droppings
be placed in a tub whence the water is drawn it
will afford good assistance in this respect.

Give more and more air by day to Cucumbers, even
towards the end of the month to tilting the sashes
of frames on their sides, by inserting wedges under
the opposite side. Always so raise each, however,
that any winds blow over and not directly into the
frames. Add manurial watering to the usual root-
waterings. These should be given every other day

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

during very hot drying weather; but only every
third or fourth day when the weather is heavy and
dull, though superficial sprinklings will be required
daily at this date at 3.30 pm. Take care to give
root-waterings at the same hour, upon sunny days
only ; so that the heat of the sun’s rays, subsequently
boxed up by closing the lights down tightly, aid in
renovating the heat lost in process of watering. To
jnsure that a moderate warmth pervades the water
used, make a point of fiiling all water-pots with
water as soon as the general morning waterings are
finished, and place them in full sun previous to
the periodical waterings. Continue to look through
the plants. Pinch back lateral shoots upon which
embryo Cucumbers form, at one leaf beyond such
tender fruits. Remove all tendrils wherever they
form. Stop the points of strong shoots (which it is
well to let grow occasionally, to insure better root-
action) when they approach the outer sides of frame
or proper limits, removing all aged leaves and
freshening up the surface of the soil, to neutralise
the formation of noxious fungoid growths, &c.

Mushroom-beds, which have been spawned five or
six weeks, should have the surface covering carefully
removed, giving waterings as may be necessary.
Well shake up the material used as a covering, and
replace it over the bed lightly, and as circumstances
suggest less densely also. Collect more materials and
make up successional beds out of doors, for cropping
during September onwards. Such materials will dry
well spread out in the sun during dry weather, and
prove better than such as are prepared by process of
fermentation. It is important that the droppings be
such as are formed by horses fed upon dry food, and
not from such as are pasturing, as many horses are
at this season, Take care to remove all vegetable
crops immediately they have ceased to be young and
useful, especially of the Brassica tribe, Spinach, &c.
To permit these to stand upon the ground but a
few days subsequently, is to greatly and needlessly
rob the ground of its best constituents.

July.

Even during the month known as arid July,
cropping must be continued by all who would have
vegetables subsequently ‘in season.” As spring-
sown crops come into bearing and exhaust them-
selves, they must in rapid succession be uprooted, the
ground “repaired,” and other crops made to take their
place, as by a wizard’s hand. Too much attention
cannot therefore be given to the immediate digging
up of all ground, when crops thereon become ex-
hausted. It is highly desirable likewise to add
manure to all such ground as is dug up at this
season. Following former crops it is generally very
dry, and unless heavy rains fall it will continue 80.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 311

By giving it a dressing of manure, the manure will,
by the very moisture it contains, give latent moisture
to the ground below which it could not otherwise
possess at such a period and under such conditions.
It is a practice (greatly wronged in’ the omission)
very desirable to trundle a wooden roller over quar-
ters so dug up, immmediately after dug. Crops
of all kinds, transposed to soil so treated, succeed far
better at such a season. Judgment and discrimina-
tion must ‘be used in connection both with sowing
seeds and transplanting winter vegetables. It is
always desirable to dc both as near to a rainy period
as possible, and towards the latter part of each day.
Take care not to put plants of the Brassica tribes
too deeply into the ground. Just the root-fibres
alone should be placed in the ground, and the soil
pressed very firmly over them. .A watering given to
the roots of each will greatly aid in making the
soil firm around them, which, aided by the mois-
ture, will cause quick root-action.

Take up, harvest, or store away Shallots, Garlic,
and early bulbed Onions. Cut down old stalks of
Globe Artichokes immediately the last head is
removed from each; also flower-stalks upon Rhu-
barb and Sea-kale, as frequently as they are seen
to push up. Take care to keep crops of Scarlet
Runner Beans, Vegetable Marrows, Cucumbers,
Peas, &c., picked immediately any are ready for use.
If left upon the plants they become old, and keep
even better in several instances when picked than
when exposed to the sun’s ravs upon the plants,
doing the parent plants at the same time an incal-
culable amount of injury in regard to their capacity
for giving an intermittent succession of crops. The
hoe must be used throughout all crops once or
twice during the month. See that the necessary
quantities of Brussels Sprouts, Kale, Broccolis,
Collards or Coleworts, Cauliflowers, &c., are com-
pletely planted out before the end of the month. A
successional transplanting of Broccoli and Cauli-
flower plants gives also successional supplies in due
season, which is an important fact to bear in mind.

Make sowings of Cabbage for autumn planting,
and small sowings of Lettuces, Endive, Turnips, and
Spinach. Asparagus-beds are during the month in
active growth; and at no time can greater aid by
given to the plants in view of forming fine produce
the following spring than by giving good manurial
waterings at this particular season. Dig up and
store away early Myatt Potatoes, planting a few
rows of the tubers after having first exposed them to
the sun for a few days upon a warm sunny border,
in view of securing a few early’ tubers towards the
month of November.

Dig out Celery trenches, manure them liberally,
and transplant Celery therein in successional batches,

according to the quantities necessary for supply;
give thorough soakings of water, and should the
weather be very hot and dry, it will be well to lay a
few green-leaved tree-branches across the trenches.
Attend to ridge Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows.
Stop the points of all strong-growing shoots, to in-
duce laterals bearing fruits to form ; watering, &c., as
needful. Nail up Tomatoes, Capsicums, &c., growing
against walls, keeping them also well supplied with
root-waterings.

Winter or very early-planted Cucumbers will
show signs of exhaustion. If the plants are healthy,
cut them well back; add a layer of fresh soil over
the roots, and induce a quick young growth. By
these means the whole will be resuscitated, and
other good fruit crops will follow. Sow seeds of de-
sirable kinds of Cucumbers, to grow into plants for
the renewal of such as are house-grown, and which it
is well to get planted out and established before dull
November weather too nearly approaches. Cut down
all superfluous growth on herbs, such as the seedy
stalks upon Tarragon, Fennel, Marjoram, Sage, An-
gelica, Mint, &c., where any still remains from the
herb-collecting and drying process of the latter
part of the month of June. By this means young
shoots of merit will be formed in time to stand for
winter.

August.

It is important that all who desire to secure good
beds of winter Spinach should prepare the ground
during the first week in the month. Seeds of the
prickly or hardier kind should be sown between the
10th and 12th of the month. As early in the month
as convenient, prepare also a nice bed whereon
to sow French or Short Horn Carrots, from which a
nice supply of young produce can be secured for
early winter uses. An open, sunny aspect, and free
sandy soil should be chosen for the purpose.

Mould up all kinds of winter greens, &c. During
the second week sow the main crop of Cabbages, in-
cluding Red, for pickling, to plant out in the autumn
for the early spring supplies. Make also two distinct
sowings of Cauliflower for a similar purpose on the
8th and 13th of the month. The result will be a
patch of young plants, for transplanting into frames,
or under hand-lights, in the usual way. Finish
planting out Leeks, earthing the earlier ones up as
they proceed in growth. Make main sowings of
winter Lettuces, especially black-seeded Brown Cos
and hardy Cabbage. Where Lisbon Onions were not
sown as advised last month, make a sowing early in
the present. Batavian and Curled Endive, Turnip
Radishes, &c., sow also as required. Finish planting
out Celery as soon as possible, ground being at liberty
for the purpose. Go over the earlier row of Celery,
remove all small useless leaves from each plant, and

312

carefully take off all minor side-shoots or suckers
from each, hoe the soil on each side of the row, and

chop down a little soil from the sides of the trenches -

asa preliminary to earthing up. If the earliest row
is sufficiently advanced to permit of this being done
about the first week, a second earthing up may be
made during the third or fourth week.

Transplant towards the middle and end of the

‘ month seedling Lettuces and Endive on to any open
space and rich soil. The result will be fine large
plants for late autumn use, and for transplanting in
frames, &c.

Where the main Onion crop does not ripen off
evenly, sundry large strong-necked ones existing
amongst them, go over the bed, and bend the necks
of such down, a practice which hastens the bulbing
process. So soon as such green stalks contract, and
show a ripened aspect, pull the crop up, laying the
bulbs bottom upwards in rows to hasten the further
ripening process. Give the needful attention to
Tomatoes, Cucumbers, &c., well deluging all with
water as necessary. Pot off seedling Cucumber plants
grown on for winter work. Well hoe all ground re-
quiring such attention.

September.

Prepare ground whereon to plant the main bed of
spring Cabbages. Upon light ground the old Onion-
bed, especially if well manured and prepared for
such, will prove an excellent place whereon to plant
them. On the contrary, wherever the ground is of
a heavy, tenacious nature, it-will be desirable to
manure and dig up a proper space for them, whereon
to plant to the necessary extent so soon as the young
seedling plants are large enough for the purpose.
The Spinach sown as advised will require thinning
out; the better this is done, so will the young plants
gain strength for withstanding the frosts, &c., of
winter. Thin all out to six inches apart, well hocing
the ground during the operation.

Take up Potato crops immediately the haulm shows
signs of ripening, and should disease show upon any,
either cut the haulm down and remove it to a dis-
tance, or forthwith dig up the crop. In digging the
crop up thus early, however, it is needful to at once
remove the tubers to a cool, close, dark shed, or to
clamp them at once in the open ground. The latter
is preferable. Care must be taken, however, not to
place too large a bulk together, otherwise they are
likely to ferment and receive great injury. In any
case, it is desirable to dig up this crop aS soon as
possible. The practice of leaving it in the ground
after the haulm has died down, too certainly causes
undue logs or waste.

Proceed with earthing up Celery. The process re-
quires to be done by degrees, at intervals of about a

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

fortnight. Chop a quantity of soil down from the
sides of the trenches each time, break it up finely,
place it against the plants, and whilst each plant is
held bodily in one hand, with the leaves naturally
closed together, and their stalks straight, draw the
soil with a trowel up around and between each.
During dry weather a final watering should be given
before the second earthing up.

Towards the end of the month take up and store
Beet-root and Carrots. Dig up each root care-
fully, so as not to break them; twist the leaves off
the former, and cut them off the latter, storing them
away conveniently for winter use. A cool, somewhat
damp place suits both. Carrots will keep fresh and
well clamped in the open ground, in the same way
as Potatoes are clamped.

Mildew often attacks late Peas early in the month.
A fine dusting with flowers of sulphur is a good anti-
dote. The Onion crop should be ripening quickly
during dry weather. Turn the bulbs over occasion-
ally with a wooden rake, until the green stalks have
become brown and dry, and then harvest; in doing
which remove as much of the decayed stalk as can
be detached from each in process of picking them up
and transferring them to baskets, for transmission
to dry shelves in sheds, &c. All stiff, seedy-stalked
ones should be removed from the general crop, to be
stored away. A dry, cool place is most suitable to
them. .

Continue to transplant Lettuces and Endive, as the
successional seedling plants upon seed-beds become
large enough for this purpose, tying up a few for
early uses as required. Prick out Cauliflower plants
when large enough on to an open sunny aspect,
where they can advance in sturdy growth, prepa-
ratory to placing them in their more permanent
winter quarters.

Sow small beds of Lettuce, Endive, Radishes,
Cauliflower, and any similar subject, to produce a
few late plants or crops, which, as “catch crops,”
often come in very handy when hard winter
weather, &c., tax or injure the more permanent
ones. Well thin out the late Turnip crop, hoeing
deeply and well between it. Mould up the young
Cabbage plantation so soon ‘as active growth is
seen to commence, first making up any vacancies
that occur, and deeply hoeing between the rows.
Continue to gather all produce immediately it is fit
for table, whether really wanted for use or not. Any
neglect in regard to this must be avoided.

Remove all growing shoots from Tomatoes as they
continue to form, placing a large slate immediately
over the roots of each to keep off rains, a simple
practice which is conducive to the more immediate
ripening of the fruits.

Clear old Cucumber plants in an exhausted state

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

out of Cucumber-houses. ‘Remove the soil, and
thoroughly cleanse the structure, washing and white-
washing as necessary. Then re-lay the drainage
base ; cart in new soil, consisting of decomposed
turfy loam and thoroughly decomposed and sweetened
manure. Re-plant with the young Cucumber plants,
_ as prepared on former suggestions. Cucumbers so
planted now should be grown on robustly with a
liberal supply of air and moisture, to insure a good
basis for the ultimate winter cropping. Late Cucum-
bers in frames will require periodical manipulation,
or picking and cutting over, watering, &c., on the
principle previously explained. During the month
it will be needful also to renovate the linings. Re-
move the old, add fresh stable litter, well moisten-
ing with clear water such parts as are dry, shaking
both old and new materials well up together in
the process of renewing such linings. By doing
half the linings at one time, and the other half sub-
sequently, heat will be gradually increased.

October.

The work of harvesting crops delayed from last
month should be pushed rapidly along. Sharp
frosts occasionally occur early in the month, even
though immunity from such occurs for some weeks
subsequently. In like manner transplantings of all
kinds from seed-beds must be hurried forward, and
completed. Successional plantations from succession-
ally sown Lettuce, Endive, Cabbage, and other beds,
made in due manner, will prove an admirable safe-
guard against the exigencies of winter. Invariably
a percentage of all such young seedling plants are
lost, and it is often only by making successional
sowings that the progeny in some shape or other is
conserved in ample numbers for the demand. Thus,
early-sown seedlings give early and good results
following mild winters; whilst, on the other hand,
a severe winter often destroys such forward crops;
when happily foresight and provision, in the shape
of late sowings, steps in to fill up the gap.

Clear away the surface old growths from Aspa-
ragus, Sea-kale, Rhubarb, Artichokes, &c. Manure
each, after having well hoed between the stools if
necessary, and fork up the soil between them later
on. A little soil may be taken out of the alleys
between Asparagus and laid over the dressing of
manure placed upon them. This will tend to make
the trenches somewhat lower, and to give better
drainage to the beds during seasons of heavy rain.
New plantations of Rhubarb and Horse-radish may
be made during the month.

Early in the month collect the necessary materials
for indoor or winter-bearing Mushroom-beds. As it
is always desirable to procure such materials as are
dry, it will be well to shake them out of existing

313

fresh stable manure repositories, that have lain dry,
and during a dry period. Mushroom-houses should
be thoroughly cleansed, whitewashed, &c., and the
flues or heating medium in connection placed in good
order, in preparation.

, Finish earthing up all Celery. The earliest, or such
as is to come into use next in succession, should, he-
sides being earthed up to the necessary extent, have
the soil at the apices of the mounds drawn tightly
together around the tops of the leaves in such manner
as to exclude the air. By this means alone is good
blanched Celery secured. Later crops are best left
open at this time, as it is better not to unduly blanch
the whole growth too long a time before required
for use. :

Remove all old crops from the ground. Burn all
accumulation of such and other rubbish. Turn over
manure-heaps, carting on to vacant spaces such mate-
rials as are ready for transferring to the ground, and
as early as possible dig up all vacant ground, placing
the soil in ridges for the freer ingress of frosts, &c.,
which proves so beneficial to all cultivated soils,
those of old gardens more especially.

At this season sundry dead or decaying leaves
exist upon plantations of Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli,
&c., which it will be desirable to remove. By so
doing the plantations receive more fresh air, and are
Kept drier during the winter season, facts which
conduce to improved prolificacy. Remove unripe
Tomatoes from the open ground on to a dry shelf,
where they will ripen in due season.

Plant Cauliflower plants into frames, or under
hand-glasses. Do this moderately thickly, in such
manner that they can be wintered therein, and be
eventually thinned out or transplanted wholly on to
rich ground next spring.

Strong-grown Broccoli, especially such as exists
upon cold, stiff, and low-lying grounds, you must
“Jay” with their heads towards the no1th. This
“heeling over” is readily performed by a handy
man, with very little injury to the roots.

Give another hoeing amongst all young crops,
drawing the soil up around such as need it; thinning
out late Spinach, Turnips, &c. ; and give the neces-
sary attention to walks in the matter of sweeping,
rolling, &c. If at this season the fallen tree-
leaves, and, so to speak, the débris from Nature’s
autumn, be not kept constantly swept up and cleared
away, the walks will quickly become so foul as to
require double the amount of work thus originally
required, to bring them back into comfortable or
presentable appearance and usefulness.

November.

Speculative sowings of Peas may be made during
the month, and as near to the tenth as may be con-

314

venient. Choose a warm sunny border for the pur-
pose, and where the soil is naturally dry and light.
It should not be unduly manured. ‘William I. and
improved forms of Dilliston’s Early, &c., may be
sown. <A border at the foot of a south-aspect wall
will be the most suitable place for this purpose.
Whilst in cold northern parts of the country these
early sowings require much care to bring them, for-
ward successfully, nevertheless, more south, &c.,
there need be little difficulty with them. Broad
Beans may in like manner be sown across any ex-
posed open quarter of the garden. Care will be ne-
cessary to protect both from a variety of enemies,
which prey upon the seeds and the tender plants of
each subsequently when above ground, to which ex-
tended reference need not here be made.

Watch the weather, and transpose successional
batches of Lettuces and Endive from the open ground
to frames, as former crops are being used, and room
is thus made for them. Give air to such frames, as
a deterrent of decay alone, should such exist; the
produce will grow as well, and be crisper, when kept
in airless frames, when no such symptoms of decay
occur. It is desirable always to tread the ground
firmly between such plants when lifted from the
open ground, with balls of earth attached as they
should be, and transplanted therein.

Look occasionally into the hearts of Walcheren
and Snow’s Broccolis and Veitch's Cauliflower, to
ascertain whether any are showing symptoms of
flowering; taking care to well bend the leaves over
the centres where signs of such occur, and pull any
plants bodily where the flowers are moderately
advanced, putting them into a cool place beyond
reach of frost until required for use.

Take advantage of the first hard ground-frost to
wheel manure on to all vacant spaces, and subse-
quently proceed with the work of digging and
trenching with expedition. The chief object should
be to have all vacant spaces, whereon crops do not
exist, turned up as early as possible, so that it may
receive the full benefits of long and free exposure.
In turning it up, do not chop it to pieces, but let
each spitful lie as roughly as possible. Subsequent
frost, air, &c., will thoroughly desiceate the lumps,
and level all in superior mellowness. Additions of
fresh soil, &c., may well be made to any parts of the
kitchen garden at this soason: fences, ditches,
drainage, and so on, attended to, walks turned, Box

edgings re-planted, and all similar work performed.

at this less busy period of the year.

Look over stores of Potatoes, Onions, and all
other root-crops, removing all signs of decay, and
sorting to suit future intentions in regard to each.
Make up the Mushroom-beds, and collect materials
for successional beds as necessary.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Where forced vegetables are required early, .or as.
near to Christmas and the new year as possible, it
will be necessary to commence forcing such during
the month of November. Sea-kale and Rhubarb
forced under fermenting materials out of doors,
should have such fermenting materials collected and
placed over the stools or crowns about the middle
of the month. First, however, look over the stools,
remove all litter from around the crowns, especially
any form of decay, and place a small heap of cinder-
ashes over each. Upon it place the forcing-pots
and their covers. The, fermenting materials will be
best if placed in a heap and permitted to ferment
before they are neatly packed over a given space, or
number of such stools. By this means heat will be
quicker and more uniform. See that the pots fit
down tightly on the ground, and that the lids are
tight, &c., else the excessive steam in association
with great heat may injure and rot the crowns
before they commence to move. Do not omit to
place test-sticks in this material, and to examine
them frequently to ascertain whether the heat is
ample, or fluctuations of too great extent occur.
Roots of Sea-kale, and of Rhubarb, may also be -
carefully dug up and placed in heat, for a like pur-
pose. Both air and light must be scrupulously ex-
cluded from the former, to insure perfect whiteness.

Chicory and Dandelion roots should be placed
in warm Mushroom-houses, to force a growth for
salading. Such houses should be kept dark, and air
should be excluded from them, or they will not be
properly blanched for use.

December.

In connection with the ground work, such as
digging, trenching, &c., it is often convenient to
renew or enlarge plantations of Rhubarb, Sea-kale,
&c. For instance, the old bed-space of these and
of Horse-radish can often at this period of the year
be better trenched and prepared for such than
during other more busy seasons. As concerns the
Sea-kale and Horse-radish, the old growth may
be severally and variously utilised. The roots of

’ Sea-kale so taken up should have the crown portions

cut into lengths fit for present forcing, or to be re-
dibbled into the ground, on the principles advised
under the head of its general culture. All lesser
roots may be cut into three-inch lengths, and buried
up to the upper apices in rows, in a convenient
place for forming young plants for the future. The
larger base of each stool of Horse-radish, store for
use, cutting off crowns also with short lengths of
root-base for planting in the proper way. Di
vide Rhubarb if the stools have more than three
crowns each. Take care to elevate all such dormant
subjects somewhat, when re-planting them at such 4

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

season, on newly-worked ground. Otherwise next
spring, when growth should be in progress, they will
be found to have become unduly buried in the soil,
and deep planting is always adverse to nature’s
teachings and proper progress in the matter of
excellence of growth and produce. In favourable
localities, sowings of Peas and Broad Beans may be
made during a mild period, both in instances where
November sowings were honoured in the observance
and otherwise.

Should late rows of Celery require more earth
added to the mounds, take care to do so during dry
weather. As one row of Celery is used up, give
attention to the closing of the soil around the apices
of the leaves of succeeding ones, in such manner as
to deter the air from entering, to insure perfect
blanching of the produce. This simple operation
should be done generally about three weeks before
each row is actually required for use. During very
severe weather, it is well to place a layer of light
litter, such as Bracken Fern or light straw, along the
sides and over the foliage of each row. Without
such a slight protection severe frosts often penetrate
down to the crop, and injure if not destroy it.

Even during this month, should a fine dry period
exist, it will be excellent practice to lightly hoe
amongst beds of Spinach, Lettuce, Endive, Parsley,
&c. The very process of stirring the soil proves an
incentive to enduring plant-vigour. Take up, pot,
and place roots of Mint and Tarragon in heat.
Make sowings of dwarf French Beans, sow small
salading; place light coverings of straw litter, or
straw hurdles, &c., over young Radishes. Take up
Parsnips, Horse-radish, &c., when severe frosts are
anticipated. Extend and renew the fermenting
materials upon Rhubarb and Sea-kale, or take np
more stools and place in position for forcing, so as to
insure constant supplies.

Give attention weekly to Snow’s, Walcheren, and
similar tender crops hearting in. Spawn Mushroom
beds, making up others to follow, and collect ma-
terials for further successions. Look through
frames of Lettuces and Endives. Renew the bed, as

-it becomes exhausted from the largest plants, taken
up carefully from the contingent still without-doors.

Following any decided change in the weather,
especially if it be a severe frost, the general out-door
crops will need looking through, for the removal of
dead plants or decaying leaves. Make up vacancies
in the autumn-planted Cabbage-beds. Place pro-
tection over Cauliflowers in frames, &c., should very
severe weather exist. Keep Spinach picked, an
operation which benefits the plants when properly
performed, the larger and more succulent leaves only
being carefully removed. Again look over all vege-
table stores: sort Potatoes, placing those intended

31d

for seeds, or “sets,” in a cool airy place, and as
thinly together as possible.

Carefully give air to house-grown Cucumbers, on
all favourable occasions. Keep up a good heat of
about 75° by day with 10° less by night, anda
nice atmospheric moisture to counteract its drying
influences. Should mildew appear upon the leaves,
slightly dust with flowers of sulphur; give careful
attention to deep root-watering, in accordance with
the system of artificial bottom heat employed.

Finally, push forward all ground work; but do
not wheel and tread upon ground during very wet
weather; choose moderately dry weather for all
such work, There is a proper time and condition for
even trivial operations, and soil once puddled into
semi-mud is ruined, or injured, for at least a whole
season.

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

By Wittum Houen Gower.

Myrsiphyllum (J. asparagoides) is an elegant
scandent plant belonging to the Lilyworts, and nearly
allied to the genus Asparagus, of which there are
several very beautiful species now introduced; but
as they require more heat than is afforded by an
ordinary green-house, they must be left for the
stove-plant section. The present plant even likes a
little extra comfort in winter, so that it will be ad-
visable to place it in a snug corner. It is a slender-
growing plant, with much-branched zigzag branches ;
the so-called leaves, which are in reality modified
branches, and assume the appearance of leaves, are
ovate-lanceolate, and taper toa point, bright green
above, paler below; the flowers are small, but pro-
duced very freely, purest white, and very fragrant.
The branches of Myrsiphyllum are admirably adapted
for dinner-table decoration, or, when in bloom, for
the embellishment of a lady’s hair, whilst as a rafter
plant it has few equals. There is a variety called
M. angustifolium, but it is scarcely any different ;
another plant, named 4. falcatun, does appear some-
what distinct, especially in its blooms.

It flowers all through the winter months, and
seems to be widely scattered about Africa round the
Cape of Good Hope.

Myrtus.—The Myrtle has always been popular
with gardeners and amateur plant-growers ; indeed,
the “old lady” population of these realms have
always had a peculiar penchant for a Myrtle-bush
in the window. Ropart says they were first culti-
vated in the gardens of Sir Francis Carew, at Bed-
dington, in Surrey.

The order Myrtacee isa large one, and contains

316 '

many plants of great beauty, and not a few highly

valuable from an economic
and commercial point of
view.

The species and varieties
of Myrtle in cultivation are
not numerous. MH. com-
munis, which is generally
considered a native of the
South of Europe, is not
really so; and though now
so abundant throughout
Spain, Italy, and the South
of France, it bas been at
some remote period brought
into these countries from
Persia. It is a plant with
shining bright green leaves,
which, as well as its pure
white flowers, are very fra-
grant. Then we have the
Double-flowered Myrtle, A.
communis fl. pl., the Box-
leaved, the Orange-leaved,
‘and the Rosemary-leaved
Myrtle, and a very small-
leaved kind called Jenny
Reichenbach, which is grown
chiefly for forming ground-
work to bouquets and mixing
with cut flowers.

The cultivation of Myr-
tles is very simple; they
thrive well in a mixture of
two parts light sandy loam
to one of leaf-mould, and
will grow in almost any
place. Their pretty white
flowers are produced natu-
rally during the spring and
summer months, but if re-
quired in winter the plants
should be placed in heat
some time in autumn.

Werium.—These plants
are better known by the
name of Oleander ; the spe-
cies is a native of the Le-
vant, and is recorded, with
the Orange and Myrtle, to
be among the oldest preen-
house plants cultivated in
this country, and long natu-
yalised in the South of
Europe. Although so very

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Nerium OveanpEr,

beautiful, the whole of the plant is poisonous to man ;

notwithstanding this, how-
ever, the splendid larva of
the Oleander Sphinx Moth
(Cherocampa nerii) thrives
well upon its poisonous
leaves.

These plants should be
propagated from cuttings in
spring,. and, when rooted,
potted singly in small pots;
keep them growing freely,
and well supplied with water,
and re-pot when necessary ;
these cuttings will flower the
same season. After flower-
ing cut them back a short
distance, and place them in
a little heat to induce a short
growth before winter; in
spring re-pot if necessary,
and encourage free growth
by keeping them well sup-
plied with water. This pro-
cess must be repeated each

season. For soil use loam, |

peat, leaf-mould, and well-
decomposed manure, in equal
parts.

Nerium Oleander, and its
variety splendens, have large
double rose-coloured flowers
borne upon many-branched
panicles, which last a long
time in full beauty, and are
deliciously fragrant. There
is also a variety called album,
with pure white flowers. It
sometimes happens that
young shoots start out from
the base of the flower-stem,
which, if allowed to grow,
will entirely spoil the bloom
—they must, therefore, be,
pinched or cut out as soon
as seen.

Passiflora.—This genus
consists of grand climbing
plants, that are the glory of
the tropical and sub-tropical
forests of the New World, a
few species only being found
in Asia and Africa. They
are popularly known as
“ Passion-flowers,” from a

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

fancied resemblance which the early Christian tra-
vellers imagined, in their joy at the discovery of
these gorgeous plants, to the instruments used at
the Crucifixion of our Lord. Thus the stigma is
said to represent the nails, two for the hands and
one for the feet; the five anthers represent the
five wounds, the rays of the corona represent the
crown of thorns, the ten rays of the perianth repre-
sent the ten Apostles, this number only being pre-
sent, as Judas had betrayed his Master, and Peter
had denied Him, so that both were absent; whilst the

PASSIFLORA CERULEA,

eager hands of His cruel persecutors are represented
by the five-lobed leaves, which bear the tendrils,
representing the scourges.

Passifloras, from a horticultural point of view,
take rank amongst the most desirable of climbers ;
the great majority require stove-heat, but those
given here are admirably adapted for green-house or
conservatory.

There is very little trouble in the cultivation of
Passifloras. If potted or planted out, which is better,
in equal parts of peat, leaf-mould, loam, and sand,
they will make vigorous growth, and bloom pro-
fusely. The various species of Passifloras have
more or less digitate leaves, and it will not be neces-
sary to describe anything but the colours of the
Howers.

P. cerulea.—In many parts of the country this
is perfectly hardy, but in places where it will not
live in the open air it makes a fine green-house
plant, a profuse bloomer ; flowers white and blue.

317

It blooms during the whole of the summer season.
brazil.

BP. cerulea racemosa.—A free-growing but not
rampant variety, obtained many years ago by cross-

‘breeding ; the flowers are reddish-purple, and bloom

in profusion all through the summer and autumn
months.

P. Bellotti.—Of moderately free growth, this gar-
den hybrid produces its pink and white flowers all
through the summer months.

P. Hartwegiana.—This is well adapted for small

houses; flowers white
and blue.

P. Impératrice
Eugénie.—One of the
very best for green-
houses of moderate
dimensions; flowers
large, rosy-pink and
white.

P. onychina. — A
free grower and also a profuse bloomer: the flowers
are of a light purple colour. Buenos Ayres.

Pentapterygium.—According to some authors,
the plants comprised in this genus have been need-
lessly separated from Vaccinium ; they are extremely
beautiful, and require the same treatment as Cerato-
stema.

P. favum.—A shrubby plant with alternate deep
green leaves, which are broadly-lanceolate, tapering

318

to a point, and sparingly toothed at the edges;
flowers in short racemes near the tops of the shoots,
drooping, flowers numerous, tubular, with promi-
nent ribs, rich yellow, a colour rarely found in this
order of plants. North-eastern India; 400 to 500
feet elevation.

P. rugosum.— A somewhat lax- growing shrub,
forming a thick, gouty stem, and growing naturally
upon the branches of the iarge forest trees; leaves
broadly-lanceolate, tapering to a point, and toothed
at the edges; these, when young, are tinged with
reddish-purple, becoming deep green with age;
flowers drooping, on long foot-stalks; tubes sharply
five-angled, shining white,
transversely . banded with
lines of cinnamon, and
tipped with green; calyx
large, blood-red; springand
early summer. Northern
India.

Phenocoma—A
showy member of the As-
teracee, known also as
Helichrysum, from which
genus, however, it differs
in the arrangement of the
florets. For culture, see
Aphelexis, to which it is
nearly allied.

P. prolifera.—The only
species; has curious small
granular leaves, which are
densely set on the woolly
stems; the flower-heads
are terminal and very
showy; the texture is dry
and chaffy; colour reddish-crimson.
summer months, Cape of Good Hope.

P. prolifera Barnesii is similar in habit of growth
to the species ; but the flowers are of a uniform rich
deep crimson. Summer and autumn months. Of
garden origin.

Spring and

Phormium.—The one species in this genus of
Liliacee is popularly known as the New Zealand
Flax; it contains a great quantity of very strong
fibre, which the natives prepare and make articles of
clothing from, &c.; but there is some peculiarity
about it which prevents it coming into the European
market.

Phormium is an extremely ornamental plant, and
quickly attains a large size; pot in rich loam, and
increase by division.

It is found only in New Zealand and Norfolk
Island.

Puormium Tenax.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GABDENING.

P. tenax.—Leaves erect, five to six feet or more
long; ensiform; arranged in a two-ranked (dis-
tichous) manner; sheathing at the base, and deep
shining green in colour.

This plant is quite hardy in many parts of the
kingdom ; forms a noble ornament in the conserva-
tory, and is very effective in the open air during
summer.

P. tenax Colensoi variegatum.—This is a highly
ornamental plant; less robust than the type, and
consequently better adapted for green-houses of
smaller dimensions; the habit is more erect; leaves
bright green, with a broad white marginal band.

P, tenax variegatum,—
Similar in size and habit
to the type; leaves dark
green, with longitudinal
bands of rich yellowish-
white.

P, tenax atropurpureun.
—A small-growing form,
the leaves being of a beau-
tiful deep reddish-purple
colour throughout,

P. tenax Veitchii varie-
gatum.—In habit somewhat
resembling P. Colensoi ;
but the leaves, instead of
being bordered with white,
are striped with bright
golden-yellow.

There are numerous
other varieties. All are
beautiful, and all have
some distinctive character.

Pimelea, — A_ large
family of slender-growing, handsome shrubs, be-
longing tothe order Thymelacee. When well grown
they are unequalled for public exhibition, and are
equally valuable as home decorators.

In potting, use a mixture of two parts peat, one
part light loam, and a fair proportion of sharp sand ;
they require great care in watering, just keeping
them in the happy medium between wet and dry
during the growing season ; shade from the strong
sunshine, and during the latter part of summer
place them in a cool frame, where they may obtain a
free circulation of air and shelter from heavy rains.
A watchful eye must be kept upon them during
winter, to keep mildew or damp from injuring their
foliage.

Pimeleas are natives of Australia and New Zea-
land.

P. decussata.—Leaves opposite and set crossways
(decussate); dark green on the upper side, paler

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

below; flowers arranged in dense terminal heads;
bright pink, Early summer months.

P. diosmefolia.—A larger-growing plant than the
preceding, which it otherwise resembles; terminal
heads of flowers large; clear rose-colour. Summer.

P. elegans.—A fine showy plant, with broad, some-
what ovate leaves; heads of bloom large and dense;
flowers pale straw-colour. Spring months.

P. Hendersonii—An erect species, with slender
branches and bright green leaves, and an abundant
bloomer ; flowers rich pink. Early summer months.

P. hispida A small-growing plant, with linear
oblong-lanceolate leaves, and bluish-white heads of
flowers. Spring months.

P. linifolia.—Leaves linear, dark green; heads of
flowers white. Summer months.

P. Neippergiana.—A compact-habited plant, with
densely-set dark green leaves, and large heads of
snow-white flowers. Spring and early summer.

P. rosea.—A small plant of close habit; leaves
linear-lanceolate, heads of flowers deep rosy-pink.
Spring and early summer.

P. spectabilis—One of the strongest- growing
species ; leaves linear-lanceolate, pale green; heads
very large, downy, snow-white. May and June.

P, spectabilis rosea,—Resembling type, bearing large
heads of downy rosy-purple flowers. May and June.

Plumbago. — Fast-growing plants, some of
which are very handsome; and amongst them are
some peculiar species, or rather, the properties found
in them are put to peculiar purposes. P, scandens,
the Herbe du Diable of the island of San Domingo, is
very active as a blistering agent, and is said to be
used for affections of the liver, whilst P. ewropea is
used by mendicants of the South of Europe to pro-
duce artificial sores. P. capensis, if allowed to grow
without any pinching back, will make very long
shoots, and in this state is admirably adapted for
covering pillars or training upon rafters, but if regu-
larly attended to in the way of stopping, may be kept
in bush form. The leaves are oblong, entire, thin in
texture, and pale green; it produces immense quan-
tities of large heads of flowers, which are steel-blue
in colour. It flowers more or less during the whole
season, Cape of Good Hope.

Polygala.—A genus of Milk-worts, which give
their name to the order Polygalacee ; they are pretty
widely distributed, and many of them have valuable
medicinal properties. The green-house kinds are all
natives of the Cape of Good Hope, and form hand-
some specimens.

Polygalas are all plants of free growth and easy
culture, and thrive best in a compost of two parts
peat, one of loam, and one of sand. After the
flowering season is over the knife should be applied

319

freely, or the plants will become straggling, and
lose their bottom leaves.

go Dalmaisiana is a vigorous grower, with purple
flowers; the lower petal in all the species is keel-
shaped and beautifully fringed, which gives the
members of this genus a very distinctive character.
May and June.

P. myrtifolia grandiflora.—Leaves smooth, oblong.
acute; racemes of purple flowers, which are much
larger than in the original species. Summer months.

P. oppositifolia major —Leaves opposite, oblong-
acute; flowers bright purple; an improved form of
the species. May and June.

Primula sinensis.— These are among the
most popular and useful of all our autumn, winter,
and spring blooming greenhouse plants. There are
now many improved varieties, chiefly the result of
careful selection and crossing, though obviously all
obtained from the original pale pink species intro-
duced in 1820. We have now a rich variety of
flower and foliage of every shade of colour, from
purest white to deep crimson; and of all shapes,
forms, and degrees of doubleness—fimbriated, ser-
rated, single, semi-double, double, almost to perfect
spheres. The old double white is, however, still one
of the best, the readiest propagated, and easiest
grown. The real double varieties can only be in-
creased through layers or cuttings; while the single
and semi-double varieties are readily raised from
seed. To ensure a long succession of bloom through
the early autumn and winter, successional sowings
may be made from March to May. Sow in well-
drained shallow pans, pots, or boxes, in a mixture
of equal parts of leaf-mould, peat, and sand, and cover
lightly with fine soil or sand. Cover with a square
of glass to preserve moisture and protect the seeds.
A temperature of about 55° is most favourable to
their germination. So soon as up remove the glass,
and gradually inure to light and air in frames, or on
greenhouse shelf. When the plants have formed
three ‘leaves, prick off or pot singly in small pots.
So soon as these are filled with roots, shift again into
larger, or at once into five-inch pots, a size suffi-
ciently large for blooming the stock of Chinese
primroses. For the last shift « mixture of equal
parts of peat, loam, and rotten manure, or leaf-
mould, with a liberal addition of sand, is the best.
Let the base of the plants rest on the soil; they must
not be buried; and it is good practice to place three
small stakes in a triangle round the crown to keep
the plants steady, as they get top-heavy with foliage
and bloom. A temperature of 50° to 55° is not only
the most suitable for growth, but also for blooming,
though most of the doubles—notably the old white
—will bear five degrees more heat.

320

The so-called fern-leaved varieties (/ilicifolia) and
fimbriated strains—white and red—are the most
valued. Among other of the finer strains are—

Alba magnifica. Marginata.
Braid’s Seedling. ‘ Meteor.
Chiswick Red. Scarlet Gem.
Coccinea. Swanley Giant.
Improvement. White Perfection.
Dovsugs.
Candidissima. Miss Eva Fish.
Duke of Edinburgh. Peach Blossom.
King of Purples. Princess of Wales,
Magnifica, &e. we.
Marchioness of Exeter,

The doubles are specially valuable for bouquets,
wreaths, and all decorative
purposes, from their lasting
properties.

Psammisia. — Hand-
some Vaccineaceous shrubs,
Treatment same as for
Ceratostema, which see.

P. Hookeriana.—A hand-
some species, which has
been distributed under the
name of Thibaudia pichin-
chensis, var. glabra; the
branches are angular and
smooth, ovate - lanceolate,
and dark green; racemes
many-flowered, drooping,
deep rosy-red. Summer
months. From Columbia.

P. longicolla.—
Leaves large,
ovate - lanceolate,
and tapering to a
long point, thick
and leathery in

texture, deep \
green; racemes Fig. 2.—Crab Stock,
axillary, many -

flowered, pendulous; flowers tubular, swollen at the
base, which is deep crimson ; upper part of tube much
contracted and yellowish-greon. South America.

P. penduliflora.An erect evergreen plant, with
long, broadly-ovate, entire leaves, which suddenly
taper to a point, deep green above, paler below;
racemes axillary, many-flowered, and pendulous;
flowers tubular, stoutest at the base, rich vermilion,
tipped with yellowish-green. Caraccas.

P. sclerophylla.—A somewhat stout-growing plant,
with ovate entire leaves, which in the young state
are tinged with red, changing with age to deep
green; racemes axillary; flowers large, drooping ;
tubes swollen at the base, rich crimson, tipped with
yellow and creamy-white. New Grenada.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.

By D. T. Fisu, assistED BY WILLIAM CARMICHAEL.

APPLES—PRUNING AND FORMING.
HOUGH the practice of forcing Apple and other
fruit-trees into form at the edge or point of the
knife is giving place to the more rational one of
moulding growth into shape in the making, yet all
pruning and training is so closely correlated in the
early life of fruit-trees, that it will be best to treat
the two abreast.

Root and Top.—Aall the modern stocks, such
as those of the Creeping
Apples, Nonsuch, English
and French Paradise —
notably the two last—
differ materially from the
wilding Crab of the woods
in the character and num-
ber of their roots. The
latter roots more like a
Blackthorn or wilding
Rose than almost any other
plant.

Work them upon fibrous-
rooted stocks, and the roots
will dwarf the tops, and
also favour fertility. Figs.
2 and3 will make this clear.
The first represents the
root of a crab; the second,

that of the Para-

_ dise Apple stock.

> The Paradise and’

\ other stocks run

kK ‘naturally into fib-

a rous growths ; but

“ this tendency may

Fig. 3.—Paradise Stock, be further devel-

oped by treatment,

while even the roots of Crabs may be led into fibrous
forms by pruning and culture,

Root-pruning.—Sc important and close is the
connection between a fibrous condition of root in the
Apple and other fruit-trees, and dwarfing character
and fertile habits of top, that root-pruning should
precede top-pruning. From the time the stocks are
moved from the nursery beds or rows until the Apples,
after one or several removes, are planted in their final
quarters in the orchard or fruit garden, the trees have
perforce been subjected to a series of root-prunings.

In addition, however, to those forcible ruptures
and removals, it was left for modern pomologists to
discover the enormous advantagesof direct and special |

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN,

root-pruning, not only of young trees, but of others
when necessary, Two tell-tales on the trees them-
selves indicate, with unerring certainty, alike the time
and extent to which it should be carried. These are
the vigour of the wood, and partial or complete
sterility. A skilful use of the knife on thé roots is
an infallible cure for both.

To prevent the necessity of multiplying illustra-
tions, it may be stated that by root-pruning the
Crab (Fig. 2) it may be forced: into a fibrous condi-
tion of root closely resembling Fig. 3. Not that the

Fig. 4.—Apple Stock not pruned.

roots will be transformed from the gross fangy
condition into a network of fibres all at once; but
through a series of careful surgical operations on the
larger fangs, or by detailed manipulations on the
sub-fangs, a fibrous condition may be forced, and
to a very considerable extent perpetuated. All this,
too, may be aided by culture as well as by pruning:
just as patients who have to submit to amputa-
tions are carefully dieted with nourishing yet
suitable food, so roots may be nourished through
their pruning crises, and modified in form by special
culture or food. One of the most potent applica-
tions after root-forming is a slight dressing of sweet
and well-rotted leaf-mould. Unfortunately the
general and careless use of this root-resuscitating,
root-developing compost led to its being used too
fresh, rank, or sour, the consequence in many cases
being the formation of most destructive root-fungus
among fruit-trees; but, if of good quality and suffi-
ciently decomposed, there is no compost so favourable

45

321

for the healing of wounds on old roots and the
development of whole hosts of new fibrous ones as
sweet fine leaf-mould. However, as this is seldom
within reach of amateurs and mechanics, any sweet
fine soil or nourishing compost will do as a helpful
stimulus to pruned roots. The roots will recover
and assume a fibrous character without such aids ;
but these hasten the processes, and hence should be
used when procurable.

Figs. 4 and 6 will illustrate and render more clear
the theory and practice and effects of root-pruning.

Fig. 5.—Same Stock root-pruned.

In Fig. 4 the young Apple-tree has not been pruned
at all, and both roots and tops are distinguished by
vigour and verticality, to coin an expressive word.
Were timber and stability our aim, this is the form
of tree to be desired. In Fig. 5 the roots and the
branches are nearly alike numerous, and both incline
to horizontal rather than vertical growth. This form,
as already remarked, tends to promote fertility, and
to develop that tendency to the uttermost. It is need-
ful, however, to bear in mind that the root-pruning of
Apple and other trees weakens or destroys the hold-
fast character of the roots. This function of the
roots is of far more moment in orchards or other ex-
posed places, than within the shelter of the fruit
garden. Small trees also need it less than larger
ones, while horizontal Cordon, Espalier, or wall
trees, neither necd nor call into action the holdfast
character of roots. Taller trees, however, such as
Pyramids, and large bushes on fibrous-rooted stocks,
or severely root-pruned ones, must be kept firm with

- 822 CASSELL’'S POPULAR GARDENING.

stakes or other supports, to compensate them for the
withdrawal of their natural supports—vertical roots
—and their conversion into fibrous and horizontal
ones, :

It will be observed that much importance is
attached to the position and direction, as well as the
form and character of the roots, and this not without
the best of reasons. The best food and most favour-
able influences for the roots of Apple and other fruit-
trees are found within an average of between twelve
and twenty-four inches of the surface of the ground.
By so modifying the roots of fruit-trees as to force
them to continue in this surface tilth, we shall give
good security for their health, strength, and fertility,
and hence, largely, the permanent and lasting benefit
of root-pruning.

Should, however, the roots regain a vertical
position, and the tops respond to them by vigorous
growth and less fruit, nothing can be simpler than
to uncover, examine, and if needful prune the roots
afresh. This may be done all at once, or at twice, or
even at three times. The root-pruning of established
Apple or other fruit-trees at two operations is safest
for amateurs. But the roots should be approached
from east and west, and not from north and south.
Approaching to the centre of the bole as here directed,
about half the roots would probably be found on
either side of the bole. Approach it from north and
south, probably three-fourths, perhaps nine-tenths, of
the roots would be found on the south side of the
bole.

_ As to the best season to root-prune, from the end of

‘October to the end of the year is the best time, the
whole of November being the most favourable of all.
Experienced pomologists, however, have root-pruned
even at midsummer with positive advantage. Root-
prunings, however, during the full growth of top,
ought to be done tentatively, and are better left
to those endowed with special skill and ripe
experience. Guided by these, root-pruning might
be performed at almost any season, excepting that
when the sap is in full motion in the spring, and
before the buds have burst into leafage. Roots
pruned at that special season are prone to bleed
profusely, and so impoverish the trees of vital force.
The roots are also slow to heal, or to emit fresh roots,
under such conditions. Practically, and excepting
for experts, root-pruning had better be limited to the
periods included between the last week of October
and the first of January.

As to the mothod of root-pruning, it should be
performed with as much or more painstaking care
than that of the tops of trecs.

The matter is simple cnough in the case of trans-
planted trees. Transplantation itself, as already
indicated, necessitates a certain amount of root.

pruning. This is mostly supplemented by the
removal of all injured or misplaced roots by the
knife. If the roots still need reduction, or trans-
forming into smaller and more fibrous ones, the
stronger ones should be cut through. But in the
case of trees already planted, uncovering should
precede pruning, though the mere fact of un-
covering and detaching fixed roots from the soil,
even were all the roots left intact, which is impos-
sible, is tantamount to root-pruning.

In addition to this, however, the direct cutting back
of strong roots, or reduction of superfluous ones, may
be required. <A keen-
edged knife should be
used, and the cuts should
be made at a short acute
angle from the bottom
of the roots upwards.
If one or more small
fibres appear on the
main root, it is wise,
where practicable, to cut
back to this. Clean cuts,
and the roots returned
to earth as quickly as
possible, are among the
surest aids to success in
the root-pruning of the
Apple or other trees. If
the trees are pruned
tentatively—one-half or
a third at a time—the
pruning may be renewed
every year till finished
—unless, however, the
character of the top
growth has been so
checked and modified as
to prove that the main
roots have been sufii-
ciently pruned. In that
case the wise saw of
letting well alone is most
appropriate, for root-pruning is not desirable in
itself, only as a means to an end: and the end—
moderate growth and fertility—being already reached,
there is no rational motive for pushing the root-
pruning further. Notes should, however, be made
of these partially root-pruned trees, and should they
again fall into sterile ways, the process may be
renewed at the point where it was left on the former
occasion.

The permanent effects of root-pruning are not
only seen in less top growth and more fruit, but it
also reduces top-pruning to the lowest limits. This
will be readily understood.

Fig. 6.—Cordon pleated and
left full length, showing
fruit-buds plumped up in
the autumn.

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN,

So much is this the caso at times, that not a few
‘fruit-trees on dwarfing stocks are hardly pruned at
all, The best lot of garden Apples ever grown by
the writer were from maiden plants about fifteen
inches long on the French Paradise stocks, They
were so finely rooted that a good many roots were
also pruned off at planting, The tops were, however,
left at full length, tied down, and fastened to wires
fifteen inches from the ground. During the summer
the tiny trees for a time seemed to have a severe
struggle for life. Each bud, however, broke at last,
from base to summit. During the season no exten-
sion of the leading shoots nor side shoots was formed.

Fig. 7.—Apple-shoot
unstopped.

The few leaves produced, however, nurtured one or
more fruit-buds under their axils, which were well
plumped up before the leaves fell in the autumn
(see Fig. 6). The following spring, those cordons
thus formed were pinked over from base to ex-
tremity with blossom, in due time developing into
fruit. A full crop was left, the fruit crowding one
upon the other; and from that day to this, those
trees have had little, several of them scarcely
any pruning, and they have never missed a
crop unless when the frost has blighted them.
Three things combined to develop their fertility
to the uttermost—the Doucin stocks, root-prun-
ing, and the strain of the full-lengthed tops on
the roots.

This extreme case is cited less as an example to be
generally followed, than as an illustration of the im-
portant fact that root- pruning lessens and may
even, in certain cases, abolish the necessity for top-
pruning.

Fig. 8._-Apple-shoot stopped once.

323

Summer Pinching.—It may seem almost ab-
surd, in an article on pruning and forming, to point
out the possibility of abolishing the former alto-
gether. This, indced, is seldom possible. Whatever
system, however, can be devised to lessen its amount
is likely to prove a clear gain of time and profit to
the Apple-grower or general _pomologist. The old
system of cutting back all maiden trees very hard—
that is, heading them back, as it was called—is dead
or dying fast. Not only are dwarfing stocks, root-
pruning, the leaving of the top full or partial length,
in league to abolish it, but so is summer pinching or
stopping. By these simple and prompt processes of

Fig. 9.—Apple-shoot stopped twice.

arresting growth and distributing force, the growth
of fishing-rods for the knife, as in Fig. 7, is pre-
vented, and two or more seasons’ growths of a more
fruitful, and therefore satisfactory, character are
concentrated into one, as in Figs. 8 and 9.

Like most other systems, summer pinching, when
first introduced, was carried to excess, and induced
in many cases weakness, disease, or immaturity.
But the system is good, as a whole, nevertheless.
Throughout the greater part of Great Britain, the
current year’s shoots of Apples and Pears and other
hardy fruits may be pinched back about mid-
summer, and the second crop of wood from the
stopped shoots be sufficiently matured before winter.
In warmer and more southern positions, the shoots
may be stopped twice—early in June and again in
August—and the third shoots of the season yet be
ripened. But it needs warm soils, sites, and locali-
ties for this. Neither is it needful. Once stopping,
and the more even redistribution of force and multi-

824

plication of shoots which follow, are sufficient for our
purpose, and lay the basis of the young tree a year
sooner, and as sound and well or better than could
have been done in double the
time on the older system of
growing wood for the knife,
Nor is the saving of time
the only benefit, though that
is very great. As the roots
modify top growth, and to a
very great extent subordinate
its character to their own
likeness, so do the tops of
trees their roots. Hence, a
branching tree of moderate
extent favours, if it does not
actually force, « similar style
and character of roots; and
thus root-pruning forms, as it
were, two correlative and con-
secutive links in the chain

(

Fig. 11—Maiden Tree un- Fig. 12—Cut back at end of
stopped. .first season’s growth.

that moulds the trees into form and forces them into
fertility.

Summer pinching or stopping also promotes good
form in Apple or other fruit-trees by laying the
foundation of the tree near to the root-stock. This
is most important in these days of the concentration
of force and the husbanding of space, as it will en-
able the grower to reap the most produce from
limited areas. This system of keeping the trees at
home in the making, also results in developing great
beauty of form in Apple and other fruit-trees. And
though, doubtless, utility should be the main object

Fig. 10.—Maiden Apple-tree, first year’s growth,
stopped once.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

in fruit-culture, none can object to have their
fruit-trees moulded into models of symmetry to
please the eye, as well as examples of fertility to
satisfy the palate. Apple-trees
feathered down to the base of
the root-stock are also far
more likely to remain healthy
than others that are mounted
on Crab or other stilts of
considerable height. Not a
few of the latter, however,
have lived and fruited for a
century or more; and, of
course, at present, experience
js lacking as to the durability
of dwarf or Pyramidal Apples
on the Paradise or other
dwarfing stocks. So impor-
tant, however, has growth
near to the root-stocks of
Apples been considered, that

Fig. 13.—Second year’s growth of Fig. 11: three shoots, with
no fruit-buds.

not seldom have wilding shoots been left on the stems
of stocks to sustain vigorous growth, and insure a
full flow of sap between the roots and the tops of
the trees. This simple expedient of a few wilding
shoots left for a time on tall standard Apple-trees,
has proved the best antidote and cure for the
hide-bound condition into which they frequently
fall. This method of increasing the volume of
sap must not, however, be carried to excess, oF
sterility, or starvation of the most valuable por-
tion of the tree, is likely to ensue. But this is
rather anticipating, and refers more to cultural

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.

expedients than the pruning and training of trees
into form.

Maiden Trees.—The majority of trees, as
they come from nurseries, are called ‘“‘ maidens,” and
consist of one stem, varying in length from six
inches to six feet. As a rule, the maidens are a
yard in length. This form of tree is the start-
ing-point for all the rich variety of form, such as
Cordon, Pyramid, Bush, Espalier, Wall, Standard,
and Dwarf, now so common among Apple and other
fruit-trees. The maiden may be said to be the
primitive foundation of all others. Until quite
recently it was looked upon as a necessity. Now,
however, not a few raisers and sellers of fruit-trees

dispense with their
one-stemmed maidens.
By pinching _ their

shoots once or twice
during the summer,
three or five stems may
be produced of a more
serviceable character.
For example, instead
of the maiden tree re-
sembling Fig. 7 to-
wards the end of the
season, it may, by a
single stopping, say in
June, be converted in-
to Fig. 8; or by two
stoppings—one at the
end of May, and an-
other early in July—be developed in a single season
into the rudimentary Bush Apple-tree (Fig. 9).
Nor is this all that is gained by single or double
stopping. Observe the difference of the buds on the
lower and upper portion of the stems of Figs. 8
and 9. The difference of size in both cases indicates a
difference of character and of function. The plump
round buds on the base of these trees show them to
be fruit-buds, while the whole of the buds on the
unstopped maiden (Fig. 7) are wood-buds, thus
showing that judicious stopping, as well as a wise
selection and treatment of stock, hastens fertility
as well as accelerates the formation of the tree.
Fig. 10, a form mostly resulting from a single stop-
page of a maiden during its first year’s growth, is
already on the high road to becoming a Pyramid,
Espalier, or any other desired form of Apple-tree.
Contrast this with the one-stemmed maiden (Fig. 11)
as received from the nursery, the same cut back
in the spring (Fig. 12), and grown into three shoots
in the subsequent summer (Fig. 13), and it will at
once be seen that a whole year has been saved in time,
and more than a year in condition. It is impossible

A ZE ~~
Fig. 14.—Wood-
buds.

Fig. 15.—Fruit-
buds.

325

to exaggerate the importance of this latter difference.
The trees having made one vigorous shoot, and a
root or roots of similar character, will have estab-
lished a tendency to produce similar growths in the
future; hence its three buds will break into shoots
as strong, or possibly stronger, than the first shoots
formed. Consequently no fruit-buds are likely to be
formed on the second nor probably on the third-year
shoots. Growth and its forcible suppression by
pruning may thus continue for several years. Asa
matter of fact and of history, it continued so long at
one time that it merged into a common saying that
“Men planted Pears and other fruits for their
children ; seldom living long enough to eat of them
themselves.” All this is now altered by the use of
dwarfing stocks; the
reduction of pruning
to the lowest possible
limits, or its total abo-
lition; and by summer
pinching, or, as we
prefer to call it, the
moulding of growth
into form and fertility
in the making.

Fruit - buds. — It
may be well before pro-
ceeding further to point
out the broad distinc-
tion between fruit and
wood-buds. No one
can prune with profit
who has not learned to distinguish the difference. In
general terms, and this applies to fruit-bearing trees
of all sorts, the fruit-buds are larger and also rounder
than the wood-buds. As a rule, too, they will be
found towards the base.of the stems of the wood of
the current or the past year. Figs. 14 and 15 are
pieces of two Apple-shoots, Fig. 14 clothed with
wood-buds only from base to summit, and the other
(Fig. 15) with fruit-buds. They are comparatively
seldom found like this, pure and unmixed, in a state
of nature. But they are shown so here to make
the distinction more obviously apparent. The fruit-
buds of Apples, Pears, Cherries, and other trees are
also often found in clusters at the bases of spurs, and
in such cases they are called fruit-spurs (Fig. 16).
These may be solitary, or in twos, threes, or much
larger aggregates. Lower, or near to these fruit-
spurs, wood-buds are generally found, and these are
useful as fetching up food-supplies to the fruit, and
maintaining a vigorous development of vitality in
the near vicinity of the Apples or other fruit.

It is important, however, to force, shorten, or pinch
back the shoots of growing wood during the summer,

Fig. 16.— Spur of
*'Fruit-buds,

326 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

to allow of more light and air reaching the swelling
fruit; and in the autumn the growing shoets should
be cut back, as shown in Fig. 17.

cut back.

2

For the purpose of keeping Apple or other fruit-
trees in good form—or at home, as it is called—the
shortening back of the branches is often practised, as
shown in Fig 18, whether these branches are clothed
with fruit-buds, as there shown, or with wood-
buds.

Fig. 17.—Fruit-spur_ with
Wood-shoots, the latter

The thinning or reduction of size of fruit-spurs,
as shown in Fig. 19, belongs more to general culture
of fruit-trees than the moulding of young trees into

Fig. 19.—Thinning of Fruit-bearing Spurs.

form. But an illustration of it is given here to
complete what is needful to a full comprehension of
the subject. It is obvious that trees may be injured
by an excess of fruit-bearing spurs even more readily
and seriously than by an excess of woody shoots:
and hence the importance of reducing the numbers,

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING.

or shortening the length, of fruit-bearing Apple-
spurs, as shown in Fig. 19. In some senses this is
the highest form of pruning, and it becomes the
more important now that fertile stocks—small trees
—and systems of culture that force fertility to the
uttermost, have become the rage in fruit-growing.
This thinning of fruit-spurs has become an abso-
lute necessity to preserve the health and prolong the
life of the trees, and obtain produce of the highest
quality, under the modern high-pressure system of
fruit-growing.

It now only remains for us to note and illustrate
the various steps by which Apple and other fruit-
trees may be pruned and trained into fertile Cordon,
Bush, Pyramid, Espalier, wall, or orchard trees.

This diversity and variety of form not only gives
great additional interest to the culture of hardy
fruits, but enables far more to be grown in less
space, and much of the highest quality to be pro-
duced in gardens of too limited area to have held
one old-fashioned Apple or Pear-tree. Several
Cordon Apples may even be backed up against an
area wall.

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD
GARDENING.

ALPINE PLANTS.
By Epwarp W. Banecer, F.R.H.S.

List of Alpines (concluded).—The plants marked
with an asterisk (*) are those most easily grown.

*Geranium argenteum (Silvery Cranesbill).—A
dwarf plant with silvery-grey foliage and large rosy
flowers, produced in May and June. Soil, good
loam; most readily propagated from seeds. Native
of the South of Europe.

Geranium cinereum (Grey Cranesbill).—A plant
worth a position on the choicest portion of the
rockery. Growth dwarf; flowers flesh-coloured,
veined with purple. Readily raised from seeds.
Soil, sandy loam. Native of the Pyrenees, &c.

* Geranium sanguineum (Blood Geranium).—A
pretty native species, suitable for planting among
the larger rock plants. Flowers large and handsome.
Will grow in any ordinary garden soil. Propagated
by division and from seeds. There is a pink-flowered
variety, G. s. lancastriense, well worth growing. It
is not quite so vigorous as sanguineum.

_* Globularia nana (Dwarf Globularia).—A very
dwarf trailing evergreen plant, bearing tiny spherical
blue flowers. Should be grown in an open sunny
position, in sandy soil, with which some broken
sandstone has been intermingled. Increased by
division. Native of the Pyrenees. :

327

* Helianthemum vulgare (Rock Rose).—A native
plant which, under cultivation, has yielded a great
number of beautiful varieties. All grow vigorously,
and should be planted where they will have plenty
of room, If allowed to hang over the front of a
bold piece of rock, they will soon grow into hand-
some plants. The flowers are variously coloured,
but all are beautiful. Easily propagated by cuttings
and division, and from seeds. Will grow in any
soil. Should be planted in sunny positions to be
seen to the greatest advantage.

* Helleborus niger (Christmas Rose).—For shaded
positions of the rougher parts of the rockery this is
a most desirable plant, both in its ordinary form,
and in the varieties which are to be found in many
nurserymen’s lists under conflicting names. The
most noticeable are H. 1. maximus, the flowers of
which are rose-tinted; H. x. major, bearing some-
what larger flowers than the type; H. x. minor,
which in all respects is smaller than the type, and
very distinct; H. . scoticus, a kind for which the
world is indebted to Miss Hope, of Wardie, who
found it at Aberdeen; -it bears large pure white
flowers, and is deserving of general cultivation; H.
n. Juvernis (St. Brigid’s Christmas Rose), an Irish
variety of the very highest character; and ZH. n.
angustifolius (Mr. Brockbank’s Christmas Rose): this
is a very desirable kind, and has very pure white
flowers. The Christmas Rose is thoroughly hardy
and of great value, because its lovely flowers come
at a time when flowers are most precious; they are
at the same time very beautiful and enduring. The
Christmas Rose will grow in any good ordinary soil ;
but in a well-enriched one, with which some fibrous
peat has been intermingled, it will thrive best. The
most suitable situation is a somewhat shady one,
rather moist than dry. As the flowers are produced
from Christmas onwards they should be protected
with a bell-glass (cdoche), and will by their enhanced
beauty repay the attention. As cut flowers, they are
as useful as Eucharis, and very lasting. Easily
propagated by division and from seeds. Native of
Austria.

* Hepatica angulosa (Large Hepatica).—The flowers
are much larger than those of the more common
kinds, and of a lovely sky-blue colour. It should
be grown in good soil and somewhat sheltered to
be seen at its best. Propagated by division once
in three years. A native of Transylvania.

* Hepatica triloba (Common Hepatica). — There
are a number of varieties of this favourite spring
flower, all of which are worth growing: the single
and double blue, single white, single and double
pink or red, and some others not so common. Will
thrive in almost any soil, but best in a shady situa-
tion. This is one of the choicest of our old-fashioned

328

flowers, having been a favourite in English gardens
for at least three hundred years. The less often
they are disturbed, the finer and larger will they
grow. Propagated by division. Native of Southern
Europe. .

Houstonia cerulea (Bluets).—A very dwarf plant
bearing an abundance of pale blue flowers. It
should never be grown except in connection with the
dwarfest Alpines, so that no risk may be incurred of
its being overrun by more vigorous-growing plants.
A moist peaty soil suits it best, in a position fully
exposed in chinks among stones. Propagated by
careful division. A native of North America.

Hutchinsia alpina (Alpine Hutchinsia) —Another
very dwarf Alpine. In suitable positions it grows
into dense compact plants, and produces masses of
pure white flowers. Soil well drained, with’ sand
preponderating. Propagated by division. A native
of Southern Europe.

* Iberis corifolia (Coris-leaved Candytuft).—An
evergreen Candytuft, dwarf in growth, bearing a pro-
fusion of white flowers during May. ‘Will grow in
any position and soil. Propagated by division and
cuttings. Native of Sicily.

* Iberis correefolia (Correa-leaved Candytuft).—
This is now generally regarded as a garden hybrid
of the common perennial Candytuft. It is a very
distinct and most valuable plant, and bears fine
large white flowers in May and June. Deserves a
place on every rockery. The foliage is evergreen,
and is cheerful-looking all the year round. Any
ordinary garden soil suits it, and it seems to thrive
in every position.

*Linaria alpina (Alpine Toadflax).—A little gem of
spreading habit and dwarf growth. Situation, moist
chinks of the rockwork, in sandy, gritty soil. Seeds
freely, and self-sown seeds will yield an abundance
of plants. Native of the Alps and Pyrenees.

* Linaria Cymbalaria (Ivy Toadflax).—A pretty
native plant often found on rocks, old walls, and
stony places. Easily raised from seeds. The posi-
tions where it grows naturally indicate those on the
artificial rockery where it will thrive best. Soil,
sandy peat. There is a pretty white variety L. C.
alba.

Linnea borealis (Twin-flower),—A small trailing
evergreen, a member of the Honeysuckle family,
found growing wild in some parts of Scotland and,
though very rarely, in the North of England. The
flowers are pale pink in colour, and are produced in
pairs, Soil, sandy peat, in positions where moisture
will be always available, consequently on the rocky
portions of the bog-bed. Situation, somewhat shady.
Increased by division. ,

* Linum alpinum (Alpine Flax).—The flowers are
dark blue in colour, and appear in July and August.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Soil, good peaty loam. Situation, warm and well
drained. Propagated by seeds, divisions, and cut-
tings in spring. A native of many parts of
Lurope.

* Lithospermum prostratum (Prostrate Gromwell).
A delightfully beautiful plant, bearing a profusion
of Gentian-blue flowers during many months. Its
habit, as its name indicates, is prostrate, and the
leaves are evergreen. It should be allowed room to
spread flatly, or to depend down the face of a rock, if
it is wished to sce it at its best. A moderately dry
situation in good loam suits it admirably, though it
will grow almost everywhere if the drainage is good.
It resents frequent removal. Situation, exposed
and sunny. Propagated by cuttings of last year’s
growth, under a hand-light, in sand and peat or leaf-
mould, preferably in the summer. It is sometimes,
though erroneously, called L,. fruticoswm. Native
of Spain and Southern France.

Lychnis Lagasce (Rosy Lychnis).—One of those
dwarf Alpine gems that every lover of these charm-
ing plants will desire to possess. Its comparatively
large flowers are rose-coloured, and appear from
June to August. Its habit is very dwarf, so that it
must not be planted where its charms will be
obscured by plants of taller growth. The situation
best adapted for it is an exposed one where, between
two projecting stones, it will obtain a little pro-
tection, and the beauty of the flowers will justify its
being placed in a most prominent position. Soil,
if well intermingled with grit or sand, may be of
any kind. Readily increased from seeds. A native
of the Pyrenees.

* Lysimachia Nummularia (Creeping Jenny).—Al-
though this is a common native plant, there are few
rockeries from which it will be excluded. Its growth
is prostrate, and no situation suits it better than a
chink between two rocks, from whence it can depend
in graceful elegance. The flowers are of a pleasing
yellow, and are produced profusely. There is a
golden-leaved variety which is almost better than
the type. This is one of the accommodating plants
which: will grow as well on the window-sill of
a back court in the densest part of London as oa
a rockery in the most salubrious garden. It isin
nowise particular as to soil, but if it has the chance.
will prefer a shady, moist situation. Most easily
increased by division, which may be made at any

. time of the year.

* Menziesia empetriformis (Empetrum-like Men-
ziesia), or more correctly, Bryanthus empetriformis.—
A Heath-like plant of great beauty, and very dwart.
Should be grown by every one. Soil, rather moist
sandy peat, Situation, fully exposed. The bell-like
flowers, produced in clusters, appear usually in early
summer. It came to us from North America.

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING. 329

* Modiola geranioides (correctly, Malvastrum Gilliesii).
—A tuberous-rooted plant, bearing leaves and flowers
somewhat resembling a Geranium, whence its specific
name. It grows about six inches high, and the
flowers are magenta-coloured. Ordinary garden soil
is sufficient for it ; but the situation should be sunny
and exposed. A native of Chili, &c.

*Muscari botryoides (Grape Hyacinth).—A cheap,
pretty, bulbous plant, deserving general cultivation.
The flowers, which are deep sky-blue in colour,
appear in March and April, and are very durable.
Not at all particular as to soil or situation; best
grown in little clumps. Propagated by division
every third year. Native of Southern Europe.

Myosotis azorica (Azorean Forget-me-not).—The
colour of the flowers of this species of Forget-me-not
is so strikingly distinct (rich indigo-blue) that, though
it is a little tender, it will repay the trouble of pro-
tection in a cold frame during the winter. Readily
raised from seed in the early autumn. Somewhat
peaty soil, kept moist, supplies its requirements
perfectly. Situation, shady. Native of the Azores.

* Myosotis dissitiflora (Spring Forget-me-not).—A
very distinct early-blooming kind, producing lovely
flowers resembling those of M. sylvatica (so much
used in spring-bedding), but dwarfer in habit, and in
most respects superior to it. A plant placed here and
there in moist chinks of the rockery will be found
very ornamental. Soil, somewhat peaty. Readily
raised from seed, and by cuttings, and division of the
roots. Native of the European Alps.

* Myosotis palustris (The Forget-me-not).—This
lovely native plant should find a place wherever
there is a bog-bed in the garden, as no plant can be
more lovely. It can also be successfully grown on
the rockery in any position where it will get a
plentiful supply of moisture. An admixture of peat
in the soil causes it to thrive better than in ordinary
garden soil. Increased by division of the roots.

* Nierembergia rirularis (White Cup).—A trailing
plant keeping very close to the ground, very hardy,
which produces an abundance of large white flowers
in July and onwards. It will thrive in any good
soil provided it gets a full supply of moisture in dry
weather. It should be afforded space for spreading
to be most effective. This when well grown is truly
a gem. Propagated by division. A native of La
Plata.

* (Enothera marginata (Large-flowered Evening
Primrose).— The flowers are very handsome, and
appear from May to July, and oftentimes again in
the autumn. Ordinary garden soil. Propagated by
division, suckers, and cuttings. Native of North
America.

* Enotherataraxacifolia (Dandelion-leaved Evening
Primrose).—A showy trailing plant, bearing fine

large flowers trom June to August, which are first
white, then later on tinged more or less with pink.
It rarely exceeds six inches high, but will spread for
some distance. Its position should consequently be
away from the small slow-growing plants. The
soil should be rich and deep. Increased by division
and by seeds. This, and the preceding, like most of
the CSnotheras, open their flowers at night, when
they emit a rich perfume. Native of Peru.

Omphalodes Lucilie (Lucilia’s Forget-me-not)—A
sweet little plant with oval glaucous leaves, and
flowers like the Forget-me-not. Should be grown in
crevices of the rockery having a sunny exposure.
Soil, sandy loam. Increased by division. Native of
Mount Taurus.

* Omphalodes verna (Creeping Forget-me-not).—
Blooms early in spring, the flowers being strikingly
blue. Should be planted where there is plenty of

Space, as it spreads somewhat rapidly. Will thrive

in very shady situations, and even under trees. Any
good soil will suit it. Propagated by division early
in spring. There is a white variety, 0. v. alba.
Native of Southern Europe.

* Orobus vernus (Spring Bitter Vetch)—A tho-
roughly hardy plant, suitable for the rougher parts
of the rockery; when in full bloom a mass of it is
very beautiful. The soil around it should be richly
manured. Increased by division, and from seeds.
A native of Southern Europe.

Ourisia coccinea (Scarlet Ourisia)—A rare plant at
present, but not a dear one; while its merits are
many. It is dwarf in habit, with creeping stems,
and produces Pentstemon-like flowers. Although it
requires an abundance of water during dry weather,
the situation must be thoroughly well drained, and
at the same time entirely shaded from the midday
sun, so that the aspect should face either east or
north. It must, however, be protected from cold
winds. This plant has the reputation of being some-
what difficult to grow, but this idea has no doubt
arisen from endeavours having been made to grow it
in sunny positions, or under some other equally un-
suitable condition. Soil, good sandy loam, with
which a little leaf-mould or peat might perhaps be
advantageously mixed. Easily propagated by division
of the creeping stems in spring. A native of Chili. -

Petrocallis pyrencica (Rock Beauty). — A tiny,
tufted Alpine, blooming in May. The place for this
little beauty is a sunny spot in the most select part of
therockery. Soil, sandy loam, with plenty of nodules
of sandstone intermingled. Increased by division
and from seeds. A native of the Alps, Pyrenees, &c.

*Phlox frondosa (Fronded Phlox).—A most useful
plant, suitable for sunny positions, where it can
hang down over the face of the rock, or nestle on a
ledge. Not at all particular as to soil. Propagated

330 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

by cuttings. ‘The flowers of the type are rosy-pink.
Some of the hybrids best known in gardens are well
worth growing on the choicest rockery, foremost of
which we name P. Nelsoni, flowers white. P. frondosa
comes to us from North America.

* Phlox reptans (Creeping Phlox).—This is a trail-
ing plant, rooting at many of its joints, so that its
increase is readily effected. There are many positions
on the rockery where its employment will not be
ineffective. The flowers are violet-mauve in colour.
Not at all particular as to soil. PP. stolonifera and
P. verna are other names by which this Phlox is
known. A native of North America,

Polygala Chamebuzus (Box-leaved Milkwort).—A
pretty little plant, producing Pea-shaped flowers,
yellow in colour. Grows readily in peat and loam.
P. purpurea, a similar plant with magenta-purple
flowers, is also deserving of a place on the choice
rockery. Native of the European Alps.

* Polygonum Brunonis (Indian Knotweed).— For
rough parts of the rockery this may properly find a
place. It comes to us from elevated positions in
India, and is quite hardy. It should be grown in
flat, fully-exposed positions, when its leaves will ex-
hibit their autumnal. brick-red colour to the best
advantage. The flower-spikes are useful for cut
flowers, if used with suitable neighbours. Any or-
dinary garden soil suits it. Easily propagated by
division.

* Polygonum vaceinifoliwm (Bilberry-leaved Knot-
weed).—A lovely little plant from the Himalayas,
which is quite hardy in England. It is very dwarf
in height, but when properly placed and space is
afforded, extends over a considerable amount of sur-
face. The flower-spikes are rosy in colour and
pleasing to look at whether in bud or fully expanded.
It is particularly effective in the autumn. Does well
in partial shade in a light loam. Propagated by di-
visions and cuttings.

Primulas (Primroses).—There is scarcely a member
of this family unsuited for the rockery, and some of
them constitute its brightest gems. They vary very
much in size and in other respects: some thrive only
in the sun, others in the shade; but under whatever
conditions they can be successfully grown, they are
one and all worth the trouble and attention which
they demand, in order that they may be seen at their
best. There is probably no genus which has afforded
to English gardeners so much pleasure at a like
expenditure of time, trouble, and money. They are
not more varied in appearance and beauty than are
the localities whence they have been derived. A
garden well furnished with the genus may contain
natives of Britain, France, Austria, Switzerland,
Southern Italy, the Pyrenees, the Levant, the Tyrol,
Siberia, the Alps of Tauria, the Caucasus, the Hima-

layas and other elevated ranges in India, Japan,
China, and North America. Most of the Primulas
are spring bloomers, and are most deservedly valued
for that among other reasons. They are without ex-
ception beautiful, and most of them are as easily
grown as the commonest of them all—our native
Primrose, one of the loveliest of British plants, with
which we commence our list.

*Primula vulgaris, syn. Primula acaulis (Common
Primrose).—Although so beautiful, we should omit
it from this list but for the desire to mention some of
the lovely garden varieties now in cultivation, which
are fit to grow on anyrockery. Our selection is—the
Double Crimson, Crousse’s Lilac, the ordinary Double
Lilac, platypetala (Double Violet), Double Purple,
Double Sulphur, Double Yellow, and Double White.
Singles: auriculeflora, altaica (lilac), Rosy Morn,
Gem of Roses, Crimson Banner (maroon-crimson),
Fairy Queen (pure white), Lustrous (deep crimson
with lemon eye), Scott Wilson (the Blue Primrose),
and Violetta (violet-purple). There are numberless
others. If it be borne in mind that common Prim-
roses when wild thrive best in partially sheltered and
shady situations, where an abundance of leaf-mould
is usually to be found, a clue to the soil and situation
suitable for the bulk of them is at once suggested.
The double kinds are more difficult to grow than the
bulk of the single kinds, and if success is desired,
extra trouble must be bestowed upon them; and it
will be advisable for most of them to have duplicates
in pots preserved in frames facing north during
winter. Many of them will produce plenty of off-
sets, and it is by the offsets that the named kinds are
mainly to be propagated. The double kinds produce
fewer offsets than the singles, Seed-sowing is also
to be resorted to for increasing stock, but seedlings
will often, indeed generally, vary more or less from
the parent that produced them. Seed should be
sown as soon as ripe on moist soil of which leaf-
mould is a principal constituent, and should be just
covered with a thin film of the finest compost or sand.
They should be sown in a position facing north, or
where they will not be exposed to the mid-day sun.
‘We now proceed to mention some of the choicest
species from other countries, and a few natives worth
growing on the choice rockery, with this one observa-
tion, that, where not otherwise mentioned, the hints
above given as to cultivation for the Common Prim-
rose and its varieties will apply to all named below.

* Primula amena (Pleasing Primrose).—A purple-
hued Primrose, blooming very early. It has large
leaves, and should have a sheltered situation on ac-
count of its precocity. Native of the Caucasus.

*Primula Auricula (Auricula).—The kind here re-
ferred to is what by florists are called Alpine Auri-
culas. Allowed to remain in the same spot for two or

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING. 331

three years, each plant will send up numerous umbels,
each bearing many flowers of much beauty. Alpine
Auriculas are very hardy. Native of Switzerland
and elsewhere.

* Primula capitata (Round-headed Primrose).—This
plant sends up a meal-covered flower-stem, on which
a round dense head of bloom is produced. The
colour of the pips when opened is violet-blue. The
flowering period is from April to June. Native of
Sikkim.

*Primula cashmeriana (Cashmere Primrose).—The
foliage when well grown is very large and hand-
some, consequently plenty of room must be afforded
it. As one describer of it says, it often has the ap-
pearance of a young Cos Lettuce. The under side
of the leaves is covered densely with yellow meal.
The flowers are borne in a globular truss, on a stout
stem often a foot high, and are of a pleasing light
purple colour. This is one of the truly herbaceous
kinds, and therefore care must be taken that they are
not destroyed by digging about them after they have
gone to rest.

* Primula cortusoides (Cortusa-like Primrose).—
This is a charming old-fashioned kind easily raised
from seed. It should be grown in a sunny position,
sheltered from rough winds, the flower-stems being
slight and brittle. Native of Siberia.

* Primula denticulata (Small- toothed Primrose).
— Although this comes from India, it is quite hardy
in England. Its native home is at a considerable
elevation on the Himalayas. The flower-stem often
reaches a foot high. The flowers are a dark lilac in
colour, and are produced from March to May. A
positionw here plenty of moisture will reach, but will
not be able to stagnate, will usually secure the robust
growth of this species.

* Primula farinosa (Mealy Primrose).—Although
this miniature Primrose is a native plant, it is well
worth cultivation in our gardens, especially in those
parts of the country where it does not grow wild.
The flowers are of a pale lilac colour, with a yellow
eye, trom which peculiarity one of its common names
has been derived—Bird’s-eye Primrose. A damp
situation suits it to perfection, and a preference
should be given to a strong rather than a light soil.
Shade from the mid-day sun also suits it. The
flowers appear from April to June.

* Primula japonica (Japanese Primula).—A few
years ago this was such a rarity that it commanded
very high prices; now it is so universally distributed
as to be almost as cheap as our Common Primrose. It
is, nevertheless, so beautiful that it is a welcome deni-
zen ot every garden, and its tendency to variety in
colour indicates that the amateur who bestows atten-
tion upon it may be rewarded with results which will
repay him, In our own garden we have hybrids

between it and P. rosea, which have much interest,
and have encouraged us to hope for advances in the
combination of the beauties of both, which may yet
prove “things of beauty” as well as ‘‘joys for
ever.” There seems some difficulty in raising seed-
lings unless the seed is sown directly it is ripe, then
no difficulty is experienced. The moral is to sow the
seed the moment it can be obtained, and to do so in
a cool frame, and never in the green-house. Its
name sufficiently indicates its habitat.

Primula luteola (Yellow Primrose).—This fine
yellow Primrose, where it is well grown, produces
vigorous flower-stems, rising sometimes to more
than a foot in height. A moist shady situation suits
it, and where it thrives it is generally regarded as
one of the finest members of its family. It is a
native of the Caucasus.

Primula marginata (Margined Primrose).—The
specific name has been bestowed because the leaves
are so distinctly margined with silvery silken
markings as to separate it by this peculiarity from
all other kinds. The flowers are of a soft violet-rose
colour, rising but little above the leaves. The proper
position for such a dainty plant is in some crevice of
the rockery where shelter can be derived from the
neighbouring stones. A mixture of ordinary soil,
sharp sand, and leaf-mould will enable this plant to
thrive, especially provided the surface be covered
with nodules of sandstone. Propagated by division
of the little offsets which appear during the summer ;
they should be separated from the parent plantwhen
they are seen to emit roots. A native of the Alps of
Tauria.

* Primula Munroi (Munro’s Primrose).—This is a
white-flowered Primrose of easy culture in a damp
peaty soil. We have ourselves grown it to perfection
in a border of ordinary garden soil facing north,
where it was well supplied with moisture during the
summer months. Moisture it must have if it is to
thrive, and on the edge of the bog-bed it will doubt-
less be seen at its best. Easily propagated by
division. A native of India.

Primula nivea (Snowy Primrose).—This is another
white-flowered kind not very well known, but de-
serving a place everywhere. It is a little tender,
and in the winter should be protected with a good
layer of cocoa-nut fibre, which will in some degree
compensate for the absence of the snow coverlet,
which in its native habitat protects it during periods
of low temperature. This is a plant which needs
watching, in order that whenever rootlets appear
about the offsets a supply of soil may be placed
around them, so as to preserve them from the
effects of a drying atmosphere. It blooms in the
spring months, and is a native of the Alps.

Primula purpurea (Purple Primrose).—A very fine

832 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Primrose coming to us from great elevations on the
Himalayas (12,000 feet or more). The flower-heads
are three inches across. It is a fine species, and
deserves and will repay some extra care on the part
of cultivators. It shouid be grown on exposed
situations as far as sunshine is concerned, but
should be sheltered from our capricious winds. This
statement will be sufficient to suggest that the most
suitable positions will be those in which protection
from piercing winds will be secured for it. The
leaves are larger than those of P. denticulata, to
which species it is allied.

* Primula rosea (Rosy Primrose).—One of the
choicest gems of the family. We shall never forget
seeing some fine clumps of it on Mr. Elwes’ rockery
near Cirencester, where it grows more vigorously
than we have seen it elsewhere. The flowers grow
in somewhat the same fashion as the Polyanthus,
but their colour is a soft rosy-pink, It does best in
a boggy situation, and though not very particular,
except that it resents dryness at the root, we should
advise its being planted in the shade, where it would
have plenty of moisture. It is easily raised from
seed, and we have some seedlings in which the
characters of P. rosea and P. japonica are curiously
mingled. We are of opinion it will prove a most
useful parent of interesting hybrids. It is.a native
of the Himalayas, and is readily increased by divi-
sion as well as from seeds.

Primula scotiea (Scotch Bird’s-eye Primrose).—
This is a local form of P. farinosa, than which it
has broader leaves, and shorter and broader lobes to
the corolla. These are differences of more import-
ance to the scientific botanist than the plant-grower,
who will be much more concerned to know that
P. seotica is a real native gem found almost exclu-
sively in Northern Scotland. It is very small, and
must consequently be grown with other small plants.
Its native habitat is on moist and boggy mountain-
slopes. On the rockery these natural conditions
must be secured for it, or it will not thrive, <A top
dressing of cocoa-nut fibre kept about it in a moist
condition will conduce to its advantage, as it must
never be allowea to get dry at the roots, It pro-
duces secds freely, and from these it may be very
readily propagated if they are sown directly they
are ripe.

* Primula Sieboldi (Siebold’s Primrose).—There are
many lovely varieties of this Primrose now in culti-
vation. It is often named in catalogues P. cortusoides
anend, but P. Sieboldi is its correct name. In many
respects it resembles P. cortusoides, but it is finer in
every way. It blooms carly in April, and when in
vigour sends up a number of its lovely’ flowers,
which are borne on somewhat tall stems. A good free
soil in which there is abundance of vegetable matter,

well drained, will suit it in almost any position; but
as the flower-stems are somewhat brittle, it is better
to be so placed as to be secured from violent winds.
Easily propagated by division and from seeds. It
dies down annually, and its position should be
plainly indicated by a conspicuous tally, and all
digging about it avoided. It comes to us from
Japan.

Primula sikkimensis (Sikkim Cowslip).—Imagine a
multitude of Cowslip-pips of the finest quality, each
depending from a long silken thread fastened to-
gether at the extreme end, and P. sikkimensis will be
mentally visible. It is a plant of the finest quality,
and should be grown by every one, for it is hardy,
ornamental, and distinct. It isa herbaceous peren-
nial, which makes some growers suppose, when un-
acquainted with its habit of annually dying down,
that they have lost it. A mixture of peat in the
soil seems to suit it, no doubt because it maintains a
more equable condition of moisture about the roots
than ordinary soil would do. It should have abund-
ance of water in the summer, and be placed in a
somewhat shady position. Propagated by division
early in spring, and from seeds. A native of
Sikkim.

Primula vulgaris (Common Primrose).—See Primula
acaulis, p. 330.

Ramondia pyrenaica (Pyrenean Ramondia).— This
little plant is allied to the Verbascums. It thrives in
sloping fissures of the rockery filled with a mixture
of peat and loam. It flowers in May and onwards.
Increased by seed. <A native of the Pyrenees. It is
a capital plant for the frame, grown in pots filled
with peaty loam, the surface being covered with

fragments of sandstone.
¥*R Isis Lexie

lis (White Buttercup).—A
most beautiful plant bearing white flowers, of much
delicacy of appearance, in April and May. Not
particular as to soil or position, but it will grace any
position in which it is placed, and leaf-mould suits it
perfectly. Propagated by division of its fleshy roots.
Native of the Pyrenees.

* Ranunculus montanus (Mountain Buttercup).—
This bears fine flowers, paler in colour than our
Common Buttercup. It grows in compact clumps,
which spread but slowly. Propagated by division.
Native of many parts of Europe.

Sanguinaria canadensis (Blood-root).—A hardy
tuberous-rooted plant, producing solitary pure white
flowers, nearly two inches in diameter, in spring.
Situation, somewhat shady; soil, rich but well
drained. Propagated by division. A native of
North America, where it is found most frequently in
the more open parts of woods.

* Saponaria ocymoides (Rock Soapwort).—As this
is a very floriferous plant, it is a welcome denizen of

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING.

many rockeries. The flowers are of a pink colour,
half an inch across, and appear from May to
August, It is dwarf in height, but will cover
a considerable space if in health: it should con-
sequently be so planted as to have space for develop-
ment. Lasily raised from seeds. A native of
France.

* Saxifrages.—If our rockeries had to depend on
this family alone for their adornment they might be
made very beautiful all the year round, for whether
in or out of flower they are always lovely. They
are abundant in all the great mountain chains of the
Northern Hemisphere. They vary from the tiniest
size to large-leaved plants of somewhat coarse
appearance. The bulk of them, however, are just
such plants as are most suitable for the rockery,
where they grow in bosses and cushions which are
always bright and cheerful to look at. In a very
excellent list of Alpine plants issued by one of the
leading firms of nurserymen, this interesting family
is divided into five sections :—(1) Encrusted Saxi-
frages: leaves in rosettes, silvery in appearance.
(2) Geum type: leaves generally oval or roundish,
flowers in dense spikes (London Pride the most
widely diffused of the type). (8) Moss-like Saxi-
frages: these are the kinds forming dense cushions
most usually seen on rockeries. (4) The Oppositifolia
type: plants of prostrate habit, of which one of our
most beautiful native Alpines is a characteristic
representative. (5) Miscellaneous Saxifrages, which
includes a number of diverse plants mostly bearing
yellow flowers. The cultivation of the bulk of Saxi-
frages is so easy that any one can grow them in
almost every position. They are readily increased
by division, and the smaller the portion planted,
provided it be planted firmly, the more likely it will
be to thrive. The very small slow-growing kinds
require just a little more attention in planting than
the more robust sorts, but no real difficulty will be
found in planting any of them. The bulk of the
Saxifrages grow rapidly, and must be allowed suffi-
cient room to spread. They must not be planted
near slower-growing smaller plants, or they will soon
smother them. It is also advisable to plant the
smaller and slower-growing kinds where they will
run no risk of being overgrown by their neighbours.
‘The following are among the best kinds in the five
sections enumerated, suitable for rockeries of all
descriptions :—

Sgcrion J.—EncrustTep SaXIFRAGES.
Saxifraga Aizoon. S, juniperina.

S. aretioides. S. lantoscana.
S. Burseriana. S. longifolia.

S. cxsia. S. pyramidalis.
8. Cotyledon. 8. oohelians
8. crustata. S. diapensioides.

S. Hostii,

333

Section II.—Geum Tyrer.

Saxifraga Andrewsi. 8S. Geum gracilis.
S. Bucklandi. S. hirsuta.
S. Geum. S. umbrosa,

S. Geum crenulata.

S, umbrosa foliis variegata.
5. Geum dentata.

Section ITI.—Moss-trke Saxrrraces.

Saxifraga ajugefolia, S. hypnoides.
S. atropurpurea. S. Maweana,
S. crespitosa. S. tenella.

S. ceratophylla. S. Wallacei.

Section [V.—Oprposrrrronra SEctron.

Saxifraga oppositifolia.
S. oppositifolia alba,
S. oppositifolia major.

S. oppositifolia pyrenaica,
S. retusa.

Section V.—Misce.nanrots SaxiFRaGEs.

Saxifraga aizoides, S. Hirculus.
S. Cymbalaria.

Many other kinds might be named, but the above
will doubtless prove quite sufficient for the bulk of
growers, and will supply all the types suitable for
rockeries except the large-leaved Megaseas, which
we think too large except for very bold rockeries.

* Scilla amena (Pleasing Squill).—A pretty bulbous
plant which supplies neat flowers early in the spring ;
although not so attractive as others of the same
genus, it is worthy of a place on a fully-furnished
rockery. Ordinary garden soil. Propagated by oc-
casional division of the bulbs, Nafive country un-
certain, but is naturalised in many parts of conti-
nental Europe.

*Scilla bifolia (Two-leaved Squill).—As this blooms
very early it should be planted in a somewhat shel-
tered position, where, during bad weather, a little
protection could be afforded, thus saving the flowers
from injury. Several varieties of this useful plant
will be found in most of the catalogues, and they are
all worth growing. Ordinary garden soil. Europe.

* Scilla nutans (Blue-bell Squill)—This is our
native wild Hyacinth, as it was formerly called
on account of the general form of the perianth—so
abundant in woods and elsewhere, and always very
beautiful. Suitable for the rougher parts of the
rockery where the ground is covered by some dwarf
surfacing plant. There are several varieties, some
very pretty. Ordinary garden soil, and any position
where room can be afforded to grow it in masses.

Scilla: sibirica (Siberian Squill).—This is the most
universal favourite among the Squills; it blooms
after S. bifolia and before S. amena, and is usually
in perfection about the time of the Varsity Boa”
Race. The flowers are of a lovely dark blue colour.
As it blooms so early, the position assigned it should
be as protective as possible from rough winds. It is
perfectly hardy, and may be grown in almost any
soil except heavy clay.

334

* Sedums (Stonecrops).—These universal plants are
extremely well suited for rockeries, and being very
varied in appearance and colour, may often be em-
ployed to produce striking effects of contrast if judi-
ciously used. We have a number of native kinds,
ali of which are in cultivation, They are most
easily grown in fully-exposed positions; any small
scrap pressed firmly into the soil will be sure to take
root. They are particularly adapted for dry sunny
positions, and will thrive on old walls as well as any-
where. The following are some of the most useful
and distinct kinds :—

8. glaucum (Milky - green

Sedum acre(Common Stone-

crop).
S. album (White Stone-
crop).
8. een ae (Evergreen
i"
s. brevifojium (Mealy Stone-

op).
rsspisitum (Thick-leaved
Stonecrop).
S. Ewersii (Ewers’ Stone-
crop).

Stonecrop).

S. rupestre (Rock Stone-
erop).

Ss. gerceare (Tasteless
Stonecrop).

8. Sicboldi(Sicbold’s Stone-

op).
8. Spactabile (Showy Stone-

crop).
S. spurium (Purple Stone-
crop)-

* Sempervivums (Houseleeks).—These now popu-
lar plants owe their present popularity to their use
in panel bedding, which, in some gardens, is much
employed for the summer adornment of formally laid-
out lawns. Some of the kinds have been long culti-
vated in this country as curiosities. The most com-
monly distributed form is the ordinary Houseleek
(S. tectorum) grown on the tops of walls, and on the
roofs of low out-buildings in all parts of the country.
They are all adapted for dry, stony, and sandy spots
of the rockery, with full exposure to sunshine. It is
advisable to let them grow into good-sized clumps, as
they then show to most advantage. The smallest
amount of soil seems ample for their growth, pro-
vided the roots are firmly fixed in it. They are
easily propagated by offsets. The following are some
of the best of the hardy kinds :—

Sempervivum arachnoi- !

S. globiferum ; synonym—
deum (the Cobweb House-

S. soboliferum (Hen and

leek). Chicken Houseleek).
ee (Sand House- | S. Laggeri (Lagger’s House-
lee ee!
8. caleareum ; synonym— S$. montanum (Mountain

S. californicum (Glaucous | Houseleek

Houseleek). Ss. a eae JommonHouse-
fimbriatum (Fringed | ek).
Houseleek). S.citls(Sombre Houseleek).

* Senecio argenteus (Silvery Groundsel).—A small
plant, the leaves of which are silvery, and which
make it useful for contrast with green-leaved plants.
A well-drained situation and sandy soil suit it best.
Increased by division. A native of Chili.

* Silene acaulis (Stemless Catch-fly).—A plant
that grows in tufts, and bears masses of rosy flowers
from May to July. It is very dwarf, but spreads
freely, and should be planted in an exposed position
where it will have room for development, and away
from small slow-growing plants, or it will soon

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

overrun and smother them. One vf its common
names is most appropriate, namely, Cushion Pink.
Easily propagated by division. This is one of our
loveliest native plants.

* Silene alpestris (Alpine Catch-fly).—A charming
little European Alpine which flowers in May. The
flowers are the purest white, and are produced plen-
tifully if the plant is allowed to remain undisturbed
so as to grow to some size. Ordinary soil in an ex-
posed situation, the surface of which should be flat.
Propagated by division.

Silene Elizabethe (Elizabeth’s Catch-fly).—A very
choice Alpine requiring some care, but amply re-
warding it. The flowers are large, and of a rose-
colour. Soil, sandy peat and loam with which some
fragments of sandstone are mixed. Situation, sunny.
Propagated by division, A native of the Tyrol.

* Silene maritima (Sea Catch-fly)—The double
form of this native plant deserves a place on the
rockery, especially on a ledge of rock where it can
hang over the face of it. Ordinary soil. Propa-
gated by division.

* Silene Schafta (Late Catch-fly).—A hardy Alpine
blooming from July to September. Flowers, rosy-
pink. Any ordinary garden soil suits it, and it may
be placed in any position where there is room for it.
Being a late bloomer, a goodly number of plants may
be used with advantage. Readily raised from seed.
Native of the Caucasus.

Sisyrinchium grandiflorum (Rush-lily).—A native
of Oregon, bearing Rush-like leaves, and purple
flowers resembling Lilies. It is hardy and flowers
early (February and March). As it is a slow-growing
subject it should remain undisturbed for several
years. Soil, a mixture of sandy peat and loam;
situation, a sufficiently large crevice between two
stones facing south. There is a white-flowering
variety, S. g. album.

Soldanella alpina (Alpine Soldanella).—This comes
from great elevations on the European Alps. Has
roundish dark green leaves, and drooping feathery
bell-shaped flowers, of a pretty blue colour. Soil,
sandy loam in a chink of the rockery, the surface
being covered with fragments of rock or cocoa-nut
fibre to prevent evaporation. The drainage must be
good, but the ground must be kept moist. Propa-
gated by division directly after flowering.

Soldanelia minima (Smallest Soldanella).— This
is a truly pigmy Alpine, the leaves often only a
quarter-inch across, and the flowers rarely exceeding
one inch in height.

Soldanella montana (Mountain Soldanella). —
This may be described as a magnified Alpine. The
cultural directions for the Alpine form of Solda-
nella will be found to apply to the two other forms
named.

ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING.

* Sternbergia lutea (Yellow Sternbergia).—A fine
bulbous plant, blooming late in the year, which may
be grown underneath any dwarf-growing surface-
rooting plant. It comes to us from South Europe.

* Thalictrum minus (Maiden-hair Meadow-rue).—
This plant has found a place in our gardens on ac-
count of its foliage, which by many is regarded as
an efficient substitute for the fronds of the Maiden-
hair Fern. It will thrive in any soil, and is easily
increased by division. It is a native plant,

* Thymus citriodorus aureus(Lemon-scentedThyme).
-—This is only a variegated form of the green-leaved
Lemon-scented kind; very common, but extremely
beautiful. Grows readily in any soil; is easily pro-
_pagated by cuttings, and is a pretty plant always.
In selecting shoots for cuttings, those most distinctly
variegated should have the preference.

* Thymus lanuginosus (Woolly Thyme).—A very
hardy plant, of much use for the front of rockeries.
it is easily propagated by cuttings, and will grow
in any soil and situation. It is supposed to be a
variety of our common wild Thyme.

Triteleia uniflora (Spring Star-flower).—A bulbous
plant, introduced from Buenos Ayres in 1836. The
flowers appear early in the spring, and are always
welcome. Contrasted with Scilla sibirica, side by
side with which they usually appear, the beauty of
one enhances that of the other. The bulbs should be
planted in good soil in a somewhat sheltered part of
the rockery, as the flowers make their appearance so
early.

* Tunica saxifraga (Mock Tunica).—This is a
plant which will thrive nearly anywhere, and under
almost any conditions. It is, notwithstanding, worth
cultivating. It is a desirable plant for dry situations.
A native of the Pyrenees and elsewhere.

* Veronica Chamedrys (Germander Speedwell).—
A common native plant, of much beauty notwith-
standing, and deserving of a place on our rockeries.
It produces bright blue flowers in plenty. Easily
propagated by division and from seeds. No special
cultivation is needed for this, or for most of the
other members of this genus.

* Verona incana (Hoary Speedwell).—An easily-
grown plant which it is better to divide in the spring
months than in any other part of the year. It is
quite distinct, and a plant worthy of cultivation
every where.

* Veronica prostrata (Prostrate Speedwell).—The
flowers of this kind are a deep blue, and though
the plant is often mistaken for 7”. repens, it is easily
recognised by those who know the. respective cha-
racters. It should be planted in a sunny situation,
and willthen flower so freely as to secure its recog-
nition from any other species. This is a good plant
to hang down the face of the rockery. A native of

335

France. Nearly all the hardy Veronicas are worth
cultivation.

Viola bifora (Two-flowercd Violet).—This is a
dainty little yellow Violet, the principal charm of
which in this country depends on keeping it alive
and blooming. This, however, is not sucha very
difficult proceeding, provided the grower will pay the
needful attention. It grows naturally on the Alps in
somewhat damp, sheltered positions. The English
grower must endeavour to imitate these conditions,
and his success with the plant will be generally pro-
portionate to his success as an imitator. A moist,
shady spot having been found for it, its other re-
quirements will not be found exacting. It is really
so distinctive as to be worth a little trouble to get
it firmly established. This little gem is so widely
distributed as to be a native of Europe, Asia, and
America. There are many other Violas suitable for
the rockery, which we are restrained from men-
tioning on account of our space being limited.

The foregoing list of Alpine plants is indeed and
really a “select”? one. Hundreds of Alpines have
been designedly omitted from it; for our principal
objects have been (1) to name no plant unworthy of
a place on any rockery; (2) to name no plant not
worthy of a place on every rockery ; (3) to give a list
of plants of beauty of foliage or flower, or of foliage
and flower, and at the same time so easy to grow, the
conditions of success being so stated, that any intel-
ligent person may undertake their cultivation with
a certain degree of hopefulness and confidence; and
(4) an additional number of plants of great beauty
in some one or more respects, or of great rarity, or
requiring attention to some exceptional conditions,
involving unusual skill to grow them successfully.
The plants most easily grown are all marked with
an asterisk (*) ; the remainder not so marked may be
regarded as plants to be avoided by young beginners,
but also as plants to be grown later on when they
have proved themselves capable of growing success-
fully the plants of easier culture. Some of the plants
most difficult to grow are among the brightest gems
of the Alpine flora; but it may also be said that some
of the plants most easily grown are equal to those
most difficult, except in the one particular of diffi-
culty. Much might be said to encourage intelligent
amateurs to undertake the cultivation of Alpines. It
involves a study of the conditions in which the plants
grow naturally, or to substitute for them such as
will compensate for the difference, which involves the
employment of brains. It is this consideration which
has made the growth of Alpine plants under difficul-
ties such an attraction for enthusiastic amateurs of
the humbler class, and no men in our nation have
succeeded better in their endeavours than they have.

336

Annuals.—There. are many plants of annual
growth raised from seed, which are not mentioned
in our list, though they often prove most attractive
on rockeries. The reason for their omission is that
the plants named in our select list are intended to

be permanent plants, and must necessarily be peren-

nials.

To compensate for this omission we now

name the following, all of which are deserving of a
place on the choicest rockery :—

Ageratums (various).

Alyssum maritimum.

Anemones (various). .

Antirrhinum (dwarf varie-
ties).

Arabis alpina.

Aubrietias (various).

Begonias (various).

Bellis (various).

Calandrinia umbellata.

Candytuft (the dwurf an-
nual kinds).

Downingia pulchella.

Collinsias (various),

Convolvulus major & minor.

Dianthus (many kinds).

Eucharidium grandiflorum.

Fenzlia dianthifiora.

Helichrysum. (the dwarfer

kinds).
Ice-plant (Mesembryan-
themum crystallinum).
Tnopsidium acaule,

Leptosiphon roseus.
Limnanthes Douglassi.
Lobelia (various),
Marigold (the dwarf kinds).
Mesembryanthemum cor-
difolium variegatum.
Mimulus (various).
Myosotis (various).
Nasturtium (the
kinds),
Nycterina selaginoides.
Nolana paradoxa.
Nemophila (various).
Pansies (various).
Phacelia campanularia.
Portulaca (single and
double).
Sabbatia campestris,
Schizopetalon Walkerii.
Silene pendula compacta.
Tagetes signata pumila.
Viola (various).
Virginian Stock.

dwarf

In ‘the select list of permanent plants we have
been particularly careful not to name one which is
not offered for sale by those English nurserymen who
devote special attention to these plants, and we have
been equally careful to avoid plants of great rarity
and consequent dearness. This rule has, doubtless,
caused the omission of some plants which the more
advanced amateur will desire to possess. The
nurserymen’s lists, which are now very numerous,
will enable those who desire the costlier plants to
select them with ease; but our chief object, which
was to encourage a more general cultivation of
Alpine plants, would have been in some degree de-
feated if we had sacrificed the interests of the many
to the fev.

Ferns will be found treated of fully in other pages.

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

By James Hupson,

PERSONAL DECORATIONS.

OUQUETS (or nosegays, using the old-fashioned
term for bunches of flowers) are very popular,

as indeed they deserve to be, with nearly all lovers
of flowers. Whether it be merely a few flowers
culled in a stroll around a garden, without any aim
at artistic arrangement in the placing of the same,
or whether certain particular flowers aro chosen
for special occasions and of particular shades of

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

colour, it matters not which or what the case may
be, either will be invariably popular and meet with
approval when so arranged as to produce a good
effect, This can be done by either blending the
colours harmoniously together, or by using those
that are of striking contrast in this respect. Bou-
quets can be effectively produced by individual
genera of flowering subjects alone. Thus, what
prettier effect, or more pleasing, either in point of
appearance or in perfume, than when using Roses
and Rose-buds and foliage without exterior aid?
Violets, too, will make pretty bouquets, using only
their own leaves. The Daffodils or Narcissus re-
quire the addition of some other foliage than their
own to show them off to advantage; for these we
would use some leaves of the Berberis Aguifolium,
small forms of Ivies, or Fern.

The single Chrysanthemums or Paris Daisies, also
called Marguerites, will make very pretty and novel
bouquets with, the aid of the foliage of the fine-
cut-leaved variety with white flowers, and a margin
of Fern-fronds. Take, again, the Carnations and
Picotees ; these favourite garden flowers will quickly
form into an impromptu nosegay with «a few shoots
of their own grassy growth alone, or by adding a
few spikes of Mignonette with an edging of Oak-
leaved Geranium foliage. As another example,
which, if not composed of strikingly effective sub-
jects, would yet meet with approval from many who
love sweet-scented flowers and foliage, take the light
and dark kinds of Heliotrope, the Mignonette, or
the Honeysuckle, and a few sprays of Sweet Pea,
with such foliage as the Sweet-briar, the Lemon
Plant (Lippia citriodora), and the scented -leaved
Geraniums. This, in the summer, could be easily
effected, as also with other common garden flowers.
The Irises throughout « somewhat lengthened
season can be turned to a good account in bouquet
work; forming even by themselves a most hand-
some arrangement, with some tips of their leaves
(narrow kinds) and a few fronds of Ferns as a finish
to the same. Hither Lily of the Valley or <Astille
Japonica spikes would be an appropriate addition to
the above, as indeed they are to almost all bouquets.

Less Common Flowers.— There are several
flowers from what may be termed “ out-of-the-way
plants” that are pretty for arranging in bouquets ;
such, for instance, as Lachenalia tricolor, and other
allied species, Tritelia uniflora, Allium neapolitanum
(which is free from the unpleasant odour pervading
most species), Anthericum Liliastrum (Paradisia Lili-
astrum), Tritonia aurea (Crocosmia aurea), Leucojwn
estivum and L. vernum (the Snowflakes), Schizostylis
coccinea, Sisyrinchum bermudianum, Nerine sarniensis
(Guernsey Lily), Ixias and their allies, with single

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWEBS.

Anemones—all useful in composing various colours,
«c., in bouquets wherein they can be suitably placed.
Most of these bulbous plants are rarely used in this
kind of work, but, possessing novelty and distinc-
tiveness, they are all worthy of a place. From the
long list of herbaceous plants a few good things may
be named which might with advantage be used; for
instance, the improved type of Columbines (4qui-
legia), the Campanulas with slender stems, Cata-
nanche bicolor and C. cerulea, with Cornflower. like
blossoms, the Dianthus of the Alpine section, Francoa
ramosa, Gypsophila paniculata, Statice latifolia, and
other species. These could all be turned to a
good account in their respective seasons. Several
evergreen and deciduous shrubs can be called into
requisition ; notably, of the former, the Dadoccias,
or Irish Heaths, Pieris floribunda and P. japonica,
Ceanothus of various sorts, Escalloneas (these, like the
Ceanothus, requiring a wall for training against),
Choisya ternata (from the same position), and Garrya
elliptica, the catkins of which are an ornament around
a goodly-sized bouquet. From the hardy and half-
hardy annuals, considerable aid is imparted from
such uncommon things as Gypsophila elegans and G.
rosea, Alonsoa Warscewiezii, Nicotiana affinis, —ith
sweetly-perfumed flowers expanding in the evening,
the yellow Sweet Sultan, and the small forms of
Ornamental Grasses.

There are not a few subjects from under glass
that possess novelty and other features to recom-
mend them; of these we will enumerate some of the
most useful. From the green-house we have Boronia
elatior, with flowers of a deep rose; Clethra arborea,
having panicles similar to the Pieris of our shrub-
Dberies; Jasminum grandiflorum, very useful in the
winter and deliciously scented; Lonicera semperflorens
minor, a green-house climbing Honeysuckle—very dis-
tinct; Pimeleas in variety ; the smaller types of green-
house Rhododendrons; Statice profusa, extremely
pretty in a bouquet; Witsenia corymbosa, with bright
blue flowers; all of the Cape Heaths also are valu-
able additions, but most of them will require manipu-
lating with wire before they can be used. A few
pretty and most useful additions can be had from the
stove-house, which are not nearly so much grown
as they deserve to be. Among these are Clerodendron
Sragrans flore-pieno, very sweet-scented ; Dipladenia
doliviensis, the only variety of the genus adapted for
bouquets; its white flowers with a golden throat are
beautiful; Euryeles australasica, a bulbous plant
with distinct white flowers; Gardenia citriodora
(Mitriostigma citriodora), a very good substitute for
Orange-blossom when this article is scarce ; Glonera
jasminiflora, somewhat resembling a Bouvardia, but
with delicate blossoms of the purest white; Hoya
bella, a well-known old favourite, but neglected of

46

337

late years; Ixora, Prince of Orange, and other
varieties with small trusses; Rogiera gratissima,
somewhat resembling the Ixoras, but quite distinct ;
Rondeletia speciosa major, very useful, with good
available length of stem; Zabernemontana coronaria
Jlore-pleno, with beautiful white flowers of sweet
perfume; Zorenic Fournierii, » very useful stove
annual, both choice and distinct; Urceolina aurea, as
pendants around the edges of an arrangement, would
bemosthandsome. Thereare also Franciscea calycina
major and F,. Hopeana, with flowers of a purplish
shade, the latter variety being deliciously scented.

What may be called “every-day flowers” will not
need any description or enumeration. We have
them from among stove and green-house plants and
bulbs, from our shrubs and herbaceous borders;
many of these are so well known and so frequently
used as to have become household words. Those
which we have quoted in the foregoing lists will
each in their respective seasons be found useful:
our object in giving the names of such being to
draw attention to them as possessing distinctiveness
from that material which is so often used in the
composition of bouquets. The best of flowers lose
their charm when met with in nearly every arrange-.
ment that comes across one’s notice. Anything,
therefore, that can be brought into use that will
impart novelty, at the same time being suitable for
the purpose under consideration, should be sought
after and appropriated as occasion may occur.

Foliage and Arrangement.—tTo foliage as
a necessary accompaniment to the flowers, it is
requisite to devote particular attention. As in the
decoration of vases for the house, so also in the
case of bouquets, we frequently see an undue pre-
ponderance of Maiden-hair Fern. We would not
for one minute disparage the use of this, the best
of all Ferns undoubtedly, but it is easy to have
too much even of a good thing sometimes, So it is
in the case of the Fern under notice, the result being
that the bouquet will lack in a great measure that
distinctive feature which it ought to possess when
completed. Take for instance a bouquet in which it
is intended to use four, five, or more Camellias; these
handsome flowers are often denuded of their beautiful
leaves to give place to Fern foliage. This is a mis-
take; one Camellia-leaf at least should accompany
each flower. Should the leaves be somewhat large,
take a few tips of the green-leaved Euonymus latifoliue
instead. The Gardenias are another case. in point;
the pale green of the young shoots surrounding
the expanded flower being its best ornament after
some of the larger leaves have been removed. Roses,
too, should have a few tips of shoots or their own
suitable leaves intermixed with them. In the case

338

of other flowers also, the same rule should be followed
where practicable. Where it is not possible to use
their own foliage, as in the case of Eucharis ama-
zonica, other leaves may be substituted; when in
season, Caladium argyrites will be found of much
service in this way, going well with the Eucharis.
Of other useful things in the making of bouquets,
nothing surpasses the tips of the shoots of the Box-
leaved Myrtle (Myrtus communis angustifolia) ; the
common Myrtle, too, is very useful for working in
between the flowers. When these cannot be ob-
tained in sufficient quantity, some foliage and young
growths of the finely-cut-leaved scented Geraniums
will be found of great value in preventing the
flowers from being pressed too closely together,
being better in every way than using Moss for this
purpose. :

Avoid the placing of any flowers in an unnatural
position; thus with Lapageria blossoms, more often
than not they are arranged in the centre, or in proxi-
mity thereto, of the bouquet. It does not follow
that because the Lapagerias (both the red and the
white varieties) are such handsome flowers they
are adapted for bouquet-making. It will be well
to consider for just one minute in what position
a plant of Lapageria in full blossom displays its
flowers to the best advantage. Most floral admirers
will admit that it is when the flowering shoots
are allowed to hang suspended from a wire arch or
flat trellis-work in such a way that their beauty can
be seen from below them. This being so, the mis-
take of using the flowers in an inverted position will
at once be discernible. The more we can copy the
natural habit of the flowers to be dealt with, the
better will be the effect of the arrangements. There
are exceptions of course, but these are few in com-
parison to the other side of the question. Use the
Lapagerias therefore around the margin of the bou-
quet, so that their flowers hang as pendants to the
sume: unless, however, the bouquet be of more
than average dimensions, it is a better plan not to
use them at all. Flowers of tube-like formation
should as a rule be avoided, such as the Gloxinias for
example; these beautiful flowers cannot be arranged
to advantage in a bouquet by reason of their shape.
‘With the utmost care the other surroundings will
press them too closely, unless they are arranged
above the other flowers, but for this they will be
found too large. These remarks do not, of course,
refer to small flowers of this shape, such as Stepha-
notis and Bouvardias, which are always welcome.
Another awkward flower for a bouquet is the Bou-
gainvillea; its peculiar-shaped floral bracts are very
pleasing, but not calculated to do the plant justice
for these purposes, neither is it of a colour that har-
monises with any other but white.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

Wiring.—‘The wiring of many kinds of flowers
indispensable for bouquet-making is necessary, by
reason of the short available stems with which they
can be detached from the plant. This wiring pro-
cess must be done in a careful manner, so that no;
such things are visible when the arrangement is
complete. Wire of various strength can be had from ~
nurserymen and florists, specially cut into lengths
for these purposes. Three sizes at least will be found
requisite in most cases: the stoutest, called “stubs,”
as artificial stems; the next size, more pliable, for
wiring the flowers; and the finest, or binding wire,
which is sold on reels for better convenience. This
last kind can be used to bind the bouquet together
as the making process is being carried out, but is not
perhaps so well adapted for this work as the tying
material called “raffia.”” We prefer to use this
binding wire for the stems of delicate texture, for
which purpose it is very handy. Some small twigs
will make very good artificial stems for the larger
flowers; for this it is better to select the slender
shoots of such plants as the Snowberry (Symphori-
carpus racemosus), and the common Nut, or the
Persian Lilac. These shoots can be made pliable by
entwining some of the wire around them, and will be
found easier to secure in position than a single piece
of wire, which cannot always be held in its place
sufficiently tight to prevent its moving about. A
little wet Moss may be tied around the natural stem
of the flower to better preserve the same in good con-
dition ; this can easily be accomplished as the wiring
process is being carried out.

A few remarks as to the wiring of flowers will not
be out of place. In doing this, great care is necessary
not to disfigure those flowers which are easily injured
if not handled cautiously. ‘The best way to proceed
with such as the Eucharis, is first to fold a piece of
tissue paper around its slender and delicate stem,
after which bind this on with the finest wire; no
fear need then be apprehended of the larger size of
wire cutting through the stem and spoiling the
flower, Other flowers with which there is any pro-
bability of the same sort of thing occurring may be
served in a similar way. Several of the Orchidaceous
plants have blossoms with very slender foot-stalks;
these will all be better for such purposes if served in
the same manner. In the case of Roses two wires
will be sufficient; these should be thrust through
the seed-pod at right angles to cach other, and not
through the lower part of the petals, as some are
accustomed to do it. With Camellias, however, it is
necessary to pierce the lower parts of the petals with
the wires; two will suffice for an average fiower,
three for an extra full one; by taking the flower in
the left hand, the petals can be gently pressed to-
gether should the same be fully expanded. It is the

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

best plan, we think, to secure Camellias for bouquets
just as they are about to expand, then after the
wiring has been done the outer petals can be reflexed
by the thumb and finger. We make it a practice to
place either a piece of cotton wool or Moss, that has
been well soaked in water, close up to the flower;
then wher the wires are brought together, the same
will be pressed close up to where the flower was
severed from the stem; this will aid in keeping it
the fresher. A small twig will require to be added
as an artificial stem before being worked into the
bouquet.

Bouvardias, and similar flowers with tolerably good
stems of their own, only require one wire twisted
around the same in order to bend them into the re-
quired shape. We have seen a wire thrust up the
tube of each blossom of B. jasminoides and B. Hum-
boldtii corymbiflora in order to keep them erect ; we do
not think this at all necessary, being indeed dan-
gerous when, in order to inhale the perfumes, the
bouquet is drawn close to the face, the Bouvardias
generally being made to project beyond the average
distance of most of the other flowers. Hyacinths
and the Polyanthus Narcissus will be most conve-
niently used in bouquet-work if each pip is wired
separately ; three or more of such pips can then be
placed together in one bunch before being arranged.
in the bouquet. If used singly, we prefer to draw
them in between the other flowers after the main
part of the arrangement is complete. (The Roman
Hyacinths and Paper-white Narcissus are excep-
tions, being of more convenient size.) Stephanotis
is best managed in the same way as the Hyacinths
and the Tuberose, of which one blossom will be better
than three in a bunch, and can be drawn amongst
the other flowers at the finish. Other examples will
not be requisite on this subject: it will suffice to
say that wiring of flowers is oftentimes carried out
too severely; practice in this, as well as in other
departments of floral arrangement, being the best
teacher.

Forms and Kinds of Bouquets.—Bouquets
are made of various shapes and sizes; a great di-
vergence in opinion exists on these points. In shape
we incline to that represented by one-third of u
circle, or 120 degrees ; not rigidly adhering to that
form, for no formality should be visible. Bouquets
more often than not are made too flat, in which
way the flowers cannot possibly be seen to the best
advantage. On the other hand, we sometimes see
them of the opposite extreme, after the shape of an
ordinary bell-glass. .As a novelty, they can be made
to “one face,” as it were. This system has certainly
one advantage—viz., that of convenience in laying
them down. It does not appear, hcewever, to have

339

met with general approval, and is now seldom prac-
tised. Respecting the sizes of bouquets, it is neces-
sary to consider for what purpose they are intended
when completed. For wedding festivities we prefer
them slightly in excess of an average size; for the
ball-room, and other similar occasions, the average
dimensions of bouquets should sot on-any account
be exceeded, or the weight, &c., will cause them to
be inconvenient. With bouquets that are intended
for presentation, the size may with advantage be in-
creased beyond that of those for weddings, these
being rarely used for any special purpose after being
presented, beyond retaining them till the flowers fade.
With such bouquets it will be advisable to use a little
extra Moss round the stems of those flowers which are
not long enough to reach the water when placed in a
vase. It will also greatly tend to keep them fresher
if the bouquet be inverted every morning, and some
water poured amongst the stems, afterwards giving
a gentle shake and removing any faded Fern, &c.,
with a pair cf scissors. We would advise all choice
arrangements of this kind to be kept under a glass
globe, comments on which have been made in a
previous chapter.

Making up.—In making up bouquets, pay due
attention to keeping the centre well elevated above
the flowers that are brought into close proximity to
it. Rose-buds or Camellias will answer for the centre
admirably, by reason of their form. The Eucharis
are not well adapted for this purpose, being too flat
in appearance; Gardenias would be decidedly prefer-
able ; a truss of Stephanotis would also answer very
well. After the floral arrangement is completed, two
or three fronds of Maiden-hair Fern with small
pinne may be drawn lightly between the flowers,
those of medium size that are of a pale green colour
being chosen. For fringing the margin, the same
sort of Fern, with an admixture of Davailia bullata,
or any other closely-resembling kind. Those Adi-
antums (Maiden-hairs) that partake of a roseate
tinge in their younger state will also be found of
much service; our British species, 4. Capillus- Veneris,
with its pale green fronds, in the same stage of
growth, is one of the most beautiful of .. Ferns. A
few sprays from Asparagus plumosus nanus ‘will be
found of convenient form for the same purpose.

This brings us to the finishing point, leaving only
the bouquet-paper to be added, with little basket-like
holders and ribbon, at the discretion of the maker,
to suit individual requirements. Those papers with
a cup-like formation, and a tolerably broad margin
of an ornamental character, are by far the more pre-
ferable. The flat papers of a few years back are not
to be compared to them for convenience. If an extra
good cup with costly lace fringing is being used, it

340.

will be advisable to cover the inside of the cup with
a piece of oiled paper or silk; no stain or moisture
will then be so likely to penetrate the same, which,
if preserved in good condition, can be made to do
service a few more times. When using the little
basket holders, in order to draw the handle of
the bouquet tightly into them, a piece of string
should be securely tied to the bottom of the handle
and passed through the small end of the holder.
This will draw it close, when it can be fastened with
the string at the bottom, and by the use of a stout
pin or two at the top, to be afterwards hidden by the
ribbon, which should in a general way be white.

Bridal Bouquets.—Bridal bouquets are, more
frequently than not, made entirely of white flowers;
in fact it may almost be taken as the adopted rule.
White flowers may be looked upon as denoting purity
and chastity ; hence probably they symbolise these
virtues on such occasions. We do not think the one
colour need be so rigidly adhered to; flowers of pale
and of deep golden shades may with appropriateness
be used; some of the Orchids being especially well
suited for the purpose, notably the Dendrobiums, the
Oncidiums, and the Odontoglossums, in which this
colour predominates. In Celogyne cristata we have the
pure white and golden hues combined, this being one
of the best of all Orchids for these purposes. “The
Tea-scented Roses, with flowers varying from the pale
yellow of Marie Van Houtte to the dark apricot
shade of Madame Falcot, are all most suitable in the
bud state. We can sce no objection to flowers of a
soft pale pink being employed as well as those shades
of colour just mentioned. Orange-blossom is looked
upon as being very essential in these compositions ;
when this article is scarce, the small quantity that is
used ought to be worked in near to the centre, where
it will more readily catch the eye. Rather more
foliage may advantageously be worked into the com-
position of bridal bouquets when they consist wholly
of white flowers.

Another novel change from the stereotyped form
of bouquet-making, and one which we think will
meet with greater approval when better known (espe-
cially for wedding festivities), is in the selection of
light ornamental baskets of wicker-work wherein to
arrange the flowers. These can be carried with far
greater ease, being more portable. The convenience
of the basket over the bouquet form will, we think,
be appreciated for placing on the “ breakfast” table
afterwards, which alone is sufficient to recommend the
style to the favourable notice of all floral admirers.
We strongly recommend a trial of this system by
those who desire to see a novelty of considerable
merit displayed on these auspicious and joyous oc-
casions. Bridesmaids’ bouquets should differ only in

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

point of colour from the bride’s. This addition of
colour is generally regulated to suit the dresses that
are worn. White flowers, however, should be the
predominating feature in their arrangement. ;

Ball-room Bouquets.—Bouquets for the ball-
room and other evening entertainments have often-
times to be made with the same regard to the dress as
in the case of those we have just commented upon.
The desired colour should be approached as nearly as
possible: a shade lighter rather than a shade darker
is preferable when difficult to match. We have pre-
viously stated that these bouquets should not exceed
the average size, and given the reasons for the same.
They should be made as light as possible in every
way, using scarcely any Moss or other material round
the stems, keeping the handle as small as prac-

. ticable. When no limit is placed on the colour in

such compositions, two shades besides the white will
generally be sufficient, although some of the prettiest
arrangements we have seen have had only two
colours used in making them—i.e., white and another
shade. Blue should be avoided as much as poscible
in all bouquets that are to be seen under artificial .
light ; the nearest approaching shade that looks well
is to be°found in the lovely blossoms of the stove-
flowering plants belonging to the genus Franciscea.
These are not, however, always easily to be had
when wanted. When it is necessary to use blue
flowers, those of a light shade will look the best.
The buds of the Tea-scented Roses of diversified
shades and tints will be found as useful as any
material for these kinds of bouquets, all of which
will associate well with white flowers.

Presentation Bouquets.—With bouquets that
are intended for presentation, the arrangements
should be made as varied as possible. The best
flowers that are obtainable should be employed in
their composition; a greater variety, too, will be
admissible by reason of their extra size. Use every
means, both by the employment of Moss tied round
the flowers with short stems to keep them fresh,
and by securing long stems in all possible cases,
so that the bouquet is not disappointing to its pos-
sessor after he or she has had it only a few hours.

-In the case of impromptu nosegays, or bunches of

flowers, long stems should be used on every con-
venient occasion. The best thing to be done with
such as these will be for the possessor to undo them
carefully from the bunch and re-arrange into vases
in‘a loose manner.

Flowers are frequently presented to the sick,
and no more appropriate use could well be made
of them, yielding a solace and a balm to those
in pain, and inducing for a time the languid

DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.

smile of pleasure. With such as these, if presented
in bunches, the better way will be to pull them to
pieces as just advised, then arranging only a few in
any one receptacle for greater convenience. With

{
i
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341

should be packed in a little damp Moss or tissue
paper ; if the flowers should be susceptible to damage
by rubbing each other, a little cotton wool may be
used; but we do not advise it to any extent, as if

PRESENTATION Bouquet ARRANGED BY Mrs. H. B. Smits, or Earine, aNp PRESENTED TO H.R.H.
Princess CHRISTIAN.

such the water should be changed every day, if in a
confined room. Flowers, too, with strong perfumes
should not on any account be allowed to predomi-
nate.

With the advantages of the Parcels Post, afford-
_ing a quicker means of transit for small parcels,
flowers could with convenience be forwarded. These

acts as an absorbent rather than as a preserving
medium to the flowers. This will be found an
excellent means of conveyance for flowers intended
for presentation, and suitable boxes are already to be
had for this special purpose; the weight of these
boxes is but trifling, allowing a considerable margin
for the flowers.

342

Wreaths and Sprays.— Wreaths for the deco-
ration of the head-dress of ladies are not so prevalent
now as formerly. They look best when carefully
made in the lightest manner possible; that portion
which is arranged to the front should be wider and
somewhat more imposing than where the two ends
meet at the back of the head. In fact, when woll
made it should graduate each way from the front
until both ends meet, with a narrow margin to each,
at the back of the head-dress. These wreaths require
very careful manipulation; there should not be the
slightest pretence at working up the effect by using
an extra quantity of flowers and foliage. When the
colours are suitable, the scarlet and white varieties
of Bouvardias, represented by B. Hogarth and B.
elegans among the scarlet, and B. Vreelandii and 8.
Alfred Neuner among the whites, will make an effec-
tive arrangement for a wreath of this kind. If
lighter colours are desirable, instead of the scarlets
there are B. Priory Beauty, with pale satin rose,
and B. Queen of Roses, with bright rosy-pink
blossoms. These and other varieties will be found
of cxcellent service in this kind of decoration, of
light appearance, and easily arranged. During
their long season the Marguerites, or Paris Daisies
(yellow and white), will make very appropriate
material for the same uses. Among our hardy plants,
the Pansies or Heartsease will afford us excellent
subjects for head-dresses ; so also will the Primroses
and Lilies of the Valley. These wreaths having to
be made somewhat narrow in proportion to their
length, the Fern that is to back them up should be
chosen as suitable as possible. Asplenium Veitchii
would be an excellent kind; the Davallias also, with
a small spray only of the Maiden-hair Fern for fear
it may fade too soon. Small Ivy-leaves are also
extremely pretty, and very durable; these should be
chosen with the pale green and bronzy tints on
them. During the autumn the extreme points of
the shoots of the Virginian Creeper would be of great
service.

Sprays for the dress are much more sought after
now than a few years back; in fact, great improve-
ments have been manifest for some time past in this
style of personal decoration, and some most beautiful
devices of this kind are now to be met with. Simple
flowers are by far the best for these purposes; take,
for instance, « few blossoms of the Poet’s Narciss
(Narcissus poeticus) and a backing of a few small Ivy-
leaves and Fern-fronds—the choicest Orchid will
not surpass it for beauty. Other kinds of Narcissus
or Daffodils can be used, the smaller ones being pre-
ferable. Rose-buds, again, especially those of pointed
shape, are always sure to give satisfaction. Work in
the beautiful tinted leaves of some of the Tea-scented
varieties with thcir own buds, and no other foliage

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

accompaniment will be needed. All the flowers
mentioned for the wreaths will be suitable for thie
sprays, besides which should be enumerated the
choice of rarities among the Orchids and stove plants,
and the inmates of the green-house also. Suitable
things from among the Orchids are very numerous ;
those, however, that we have previously quoted will
be found among the best, though there are many
others that could be named. wcharis candida,
Dipladenia boliviensis, Ipomea Horsfallie, and Hoya
bella will all be choice -additions from the stove.
From the green-house, among many uncommon
things, the small-flowered forms of the tender
Rhododendrons will be extremely interesting, with
their Stephanotis-like blossoms of many shades. Be-
sides the foliage already advised for the wreaths,
some sprays of Asparagus plumosus nanus, and the
smaller leaves of the gaily-coloured Crotons, will be
of durable service from the stove-house; whilst from
the cold green-house, and open air. in sheltered
positions, the fine laciniate foliage of the Japanese
Maples would all the summer season be of the
greatest use. In form these sprays should taper to
a point, using the smallest flowers at the extremity.
Avoid going to the extreme in point of size, or tho
length of the wreath will be an inconvenience rather
than an ornament.

Button-hole Bouquets. — Buttoa-hole bou-
quets and coat flowers are among the easiest of all
things to arrange, yet we often see them unsatis-
factorily done. The simple coat flowers, such as
Rose-buds, Gardenia blossoms, and the like, can
hardly be said to require any making, merely re-
quiring the addition of their own foliage in each
case, instead of going abroad to seek something else
in their place. It is a good plan to be on the safe
side with a wire or two thrust through each, in case
of accident to the stem, which should be as small as
possible. With button-hole bouquets, in which two
or more kinds of flowers are arranged together,
be careful not to produce them of too large a size ;
this is frequently the mistake that is made in these
compositions. Two colours are enough in any such
arrangement, and these must be chosen with due
discrimination. With a Rose-bud, a piece of Astilbe
japonica always looks well; so also does one fair-sized
Rose-bud with two or three tiny buds of Fairy Roses
round it. Little sprays of Forget-me-nots will be
very useful, so also will the Statices, both the hardy
and the green-house vazicties. A couple of blossoms
of the Tuberose, with a little colour addition, will be
ample for one arrangement. Wiring will be essen-
tial with many flowers, Camellias in particular:
these require to be taken when the flowcr-bud ap-
pears to have two or three days longer to go before

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.

it bursts. This will make a much prettier button-hole
than if left to expand itself. After two wires have
been thrust through the base of the bud, the petals
can be carefully reflexed with the aid of some
smooth substance, as the end of a budding-knife,
or with the thumb and forefinger. This will then
make a pretty button-hole with a sprig of the Com-
mon Myrtle, or one or two Camellia-leaves of the
smallest size. Previous to the wires being brought
together, a little piece of cotton wool may be soaked
in water and placed close up to the bud to keep it
fresher, if no stem exists long enough of its own.

We find it an excellent plan to keep several glass
tubes of different sizes by us for the better preserva-
tion of the flowers. These will hold just sufficient
water to keep the flowers fresh the greater part of
the day. These tubes are now produced so very
cheaply that any admirer of a coat flower may
possess them. The button-hole through which they
are placed for security should not be relied upon to
keep the same in its. place. It is a good plan to
have.a narrow strip of silk sewn to the coat near the
button-hole, so that the glass tube when placed
through the latter will rest in this strip, which
should be of the exact shape of the tube itself, thus
holding it securely. This necessitates several coats
perhaps prepared in this way, but the little extra
trouble of that is immaterial in comparison to the in-
creased comfort in wearing the flower itself. Many
flowers made up for these purposes by florists and
others have a needless amount of wire used in their
composition. With these some difficulty will be ex-
perienced at times in procuring a tube of sufficient
size to hold them ; when this is the case, a portion of
the wire can very well be taken away without any
inconvenience. If a little of the backing comes
away at the same time, it will matter but little,
rather more than is necessary being more often than
not used in the making.

In the event of small glass tubes not being con-
sidered desirable wherein to fix the stems of the
flowers, it is an excellent plan to envelop them in
a small quantity of tinfoil paper. This material,
being a non-absorbent, tends to keep the stems, and
consequently the flowers also, in a fresh condition
for a greater length of time.

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.

The Feverfew, or Pyrethrum.—tThis repre-
sents a somewhat numerous genus of very useful
plants, especially the double and single forms of the
Caucasian P. rosewm, now so common in gardens, and
so striking and showy during the summer -nonths, to

343

be alluded to more in detail farther on. Pyrethrum
is the name of a plant described by Dioscorides, and.
seems to be a name compounded of the two Greek
words, pyr, “fire,” and ethron, “the lower part of the
body,” evidently in allusion to the pungency of the
root; for Dioscorides describes the plant as “with
Yoliage and properties something like Fennel, and
with a root the thickness of a finger, having a most
burning flavour.’’? No species of our native Pyre-
thrums quite come up to these characteristics. PP.
inodorum, the Corn Feverfew, is the common British
species of our fields; ixodorwm meaning “‘scentless;’
and the fact of its lacking fragrance intimates that
the species certainly is not identical with the Pyre-
thron of Dioscorides. P. inodorwm is also known as
Chamomile goldius: the generic name refers to its
flowers being the shape of those of the Chamomile;
goldius refers to the yellow colour of all the florets.
It is also known as the Scentless Mayweed, which
alludes to the form of the flowers being like those of
the Common Mayweed, and to the whole plant being
inodorous. It must not be supposed, however, that the
Common Chamomile is a Pyrethrum ; it is Anthemis
nobilis, a native of the Continent, but extensively cul-
‘tivated in the herb gardens of this country for the
supply of druggists. Chamomile is of two varieties,
the single and the double-flowered; but though the
latter is frequently preferred, the former is more
powerful, and possesses in the greatest degree the
essential properties of the plant. It is the flowers
that are used, and they are well known for their tonic
properties. The common name Feverfew is really
Pyrethrum Parthenium, and is derived from the Latin
febrifuga, from its supposed febrifugal qualities. This
is a well-known native plant, common in gardens,
flowering freely in summer; found also in Eurepe
and the Caucasus, and in all probability not truly
indigenous to this country. There is a double
variety also. The yellow-leaved Pyrethrum known
as Golden Feather, so much used in flower gardens
during the summer, and so widely distributed,
is a sport from the single-flowered form; and this
again sported to a handsome cut-leaved form known
as laciniatum, and again to a dwarf type with
charming mossy foliage, known as selaginoides. All
these golden forms come true from seed. A double-
flowered variety with golden foliage, named Golden
Gem, is a sport from the double-flowered form.
There are a few hardy perennial species of Pyre-
thrums found in gardens, that deserve a passing
notice, such as P. achilleefolium, the Narrow-leaved
Pyrethrum, remarkable more for its graceful leaves
than for its few golden-yellow flowers; a native of
the Caucasus; P. Jacustre, the Marsh Pyrethrum,
known also as Chrysanthemum lacustre; a native of
Portugal, bearing pure white flowers with a yellow

344

7
centre; P. serotinum, the Late-flowering Pyrethrum,
a showy tall perennial, growing four to six feet in
height, bearing large pure white flowers in autumn ;

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

caria inodorum flore-pleno is sometimes classed with
the Pyrethrums. It is a vigorous-growing hardy
herbaceous plant, producing in summer numberless

PYRETHRUMS, SiNGLE AND DouBLE, NaTURAL SIzR.

a native of North America; P. Tehihatchewii, the
Turfing Daisy, a dwarf, hardy evergreen species,
forming a dense turf, useful for carpeting slopes and
dry soil and rockwork, where little else will grow; a
native of Asia Minor; P. wliginoswn is mentioned
above as P. lacustre. What is best known as Matri-

.

compact, double, pure white flowers, that are ex-
tremely useful for cutting from. It does well in any
ordinary garden soil. :

Too much cannot be said in praise of P. rosewm
and its many single and double varieties. They are
among the most useful of summer flowers. P. rosewm

.

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.

(aiso known as P. carnewm), in its original form,
came to us from the Caucasus many years ago.
Originally the flowers were single in character, and
being found to produce seeds, new varieties were
obtained in this way. A quarter of a century or so
ago, M. Themisterri, of Belgium, obtained a large
variety of a distinct shade of rose-colour, showing a
tendency to produce superfluous florets. This was
sent to the late Mr. John Salter, of the Versailles
Nursery at Hammersmith, and under the careful
cultivation he gave it, this, and other forms produced
from it, gradually filled wp the centre disc with
quilled florets, until in course of time perfectly
double flowers were developed. The first really
doubie flower put into commerce was one named
roseum album, having several rows of external florets
of a lively violet-rose, with a centre of white quills.
This found its way to the Continent, was used by
the Continental florists for seed purposes, and from
. it were obtained other double varieties of an improved
and valuable character. One of the most prominent
present-day raisers of the Pyrethrum is Mr. Kelway,
of Langport. He has a very large and varied col-
lection of single and double varieties, accessions to
which are made every year in the shape of seedlings.
The Langport collection consists of about three hun-
dred varieties, and several thousand seedlings are
bloomed each year.

The Pyrethrum will stand the severest winter un-
harmed; it is perfectly hardy, and generally of a
vigorous habit of growth. In order that there should
be a good free growth and heads of fine flowers, the
plants should be in a good deep sandy loam, well
enriched by the addition of some thoroughly decom-
posed manure. The plants should be at least
eighteen inches apart, and it is a good plan to fork
jn some manure in autumn, giving a surface dressing
of the same also in spring. The plants are exposed
to one great source of danger, namely, through slugs
harbouring in the roots, and eating the crowns of the
plants away. It is therefore customary with those
who grow them largely to go over the plants in
autumn, clearing away any decayed foliage, and then
placing a layer of silver sand about the crowns: the
slugs do not like it, and so are kept at bay. The
best position in which to grow Pyrethrums is in a
heavy loam resting on a Led of gravel. ;

The Pyrethrum is propagated by means of division
of the roots, when the plants have done flowering:
and any side shoots that have not formed roots can
be made into cuttings. The cuttings can be pricked
off into pots of light sandy soil, and placed in a cold
frame, and shaded from the sun when it shines out
warmly. The divided pieces can be put into a pre-
pared bed in a cold frame, or planted out on a shady
order and covered with hand-glasses, and in due

345

time they will grow into nice plants. But slugs and
snails will prove very injurious if not closely looked
after. As soon as the divided pieces are strong
enough, they should be planted out in beds in a
fitting soil of the character above mentioned.

Pyrethrums can also be raised from seed. For-
merly we were dependent upon the Continental
florists for seed, but of late years, owing to the more
extended culture of the varieties in this country,
seeds have been more freely saved. The seed should
be sown in pans, pots, or boxes of fine soil, and
placed in a cold frame until it has germinated; then
hardened off, planted out in a bed in the open
ground, and grown on strongly to flower fifteen
months afterwards. It is found that seed from
double varieties invariably produces double flowers,
and seed from single varieties, single flowers.

Srtection or DouBLE PYRETHRUMS.

Amphitrite, rosy-carmine.
Captain Nares, crimson.
Chamois, chamois.

Delicatissimum, bright rosy- .

lilac.
Emile Lemoine, rosy-lilac.
Fulgens plenissimum, car-
mine, tipped white.
Galopin, crimson - edged
white.

hite.
Gloire d’Italie, rosy-red.
Haage et Schmidt, deeprose
and white.

Hermann Steuger, rosy-lilac ;

Marquis of Bute, rosy-pink

; _ and yellow.

| Melton, crimson-magenta.
Mons. Barrel, purplish-
crimson.

! Nancy, blush-wiite.

’ Nemesis, red and orange.

Niveum plenum, pure white.

Placida, peach.

Prince Teck, bright crimson.

i Rembrandt, - osy-purple.

Rose Perfection, lilac.

Roseum album, rosy-purple
and white.

Imbricatum plenum, crim- | ea babe plenum, blush-

son. white and yellow.
Iturbide, purplish-crimson. Sylphide, pure white.
Iveryana, bright rose. Uzziel, deep rosy-crimson.
J.N. Tweedy, maroon. Wilhelm Kramper, deep
Lady Derby, silvery-flesh. rose, tipped white.

SeLEcTION oF SINGLE PyRETHRUMS,

Albatos, deep pink. Nabis, maroon.

Bellona, rich carmive. Nestor, pink. |
Caprius, rich purple. Octavia, rosy-pink.
Carbo, rosy-carmine. Ophis, dark purple.

Paccus, rich rose.
Roseum, soft pink.
Sherlock, crimson-scarlet.
Valentia, pale pink.

+ Vistula, flesh.

| Zeithen, white and pink.

Damia, dark purple.
Ethel, white and rose.
Hamlet, rich pink.
Juliet, white and pink.
Letus, white.

Melon, rich pink.

The Dropwort, or Meadow-sweet (Spire).
—The true Dropwort is Spirea Filipendula, and, ac-
cording to Turner, it has received its common name
on account of its small tuberous roots hanging like
drops by slender threads. Spirea is from speira,
anything wreathed. The flowering branches are
used in garlands. :

Spirea Filipendula is very common in meadows
throughout Europe, in fact it is a rather common
native herb, flowering in summer, yellowish-white.
There is a form of this that finds a place in gardens;
it bears numerous corymbs of double white flowers,
which, as in the case of the single form, have a slight
creamy tinge; the foliage is elegant and Fern-like.
It does well in ordinary garden soil.

346

S. Aruncus is the Goat’s-head Spireea, a vigorous
and stately perennial, a native of Kurope, Asia, and
America, growing to a height of four feet, producing
in summer small white flowers, freely produced in
long spikes forming a terminal panicle. It does well
in the open border, and if roots be taken up in the
autumn, and put into pots, it forces well in early
spring.

S. japonica, as it is termed, but subsequently known
as Hoteia japonica, and more recently as Astilbe. ja-
ponica, is a well-known plant, largely used for forcing
in early spring, and throwing up numerous feathery
panicles of white flowers.

S. Japonica variegata is a beautiful variegated form
of this, every leaf traced throughout with golden-
coloured veins, the flowers larger than in the case
of the type. Both are hardy, and should have a rich
moist soil. The green form is very largely grown on
the Continent, and sent to England in great quantities
in autumn, where it is extensively forced into bloom
in spring, and largely used in floral decorations. It
is also an excellent decorative plant for a warm
green-house when wefl grown in pots. It is a
native of Japan.

S. palnata, the Palmate Spireea, so named on ac-
count of its handsome Palm-like leaves, is one of the
most beautiful hardy plants in cultivation; the deep
purple-red of the stems and branches passing into
the crimson-purple of the glorious broad corymbs of
flowers, contrasts finely with the foliage, which in the
autumn assumes beautiful tints of brown and gold.
It does well in a deep sandy loam, on a moist border,
and near to water; it also makes a good forcing plant
in spring, and is largely imported from abroad for
this purpose. A variety named elegans is said to be a
white form, but is not pure ;*it is certainly very dis-
tinct, and a pretty plant, in habit and foliage very
similar, the pale flowers having conspicuous red
stamens. Both are natives of Japan.

8. Ulmaria is the Meadow-sweet, or, as in Turner,
Mede-swete, a meaningless name. Supposed to be
acorruption of Meadwort, or honey-wine herb. Hill,
in his “ Herbal,” states that “the flowers mixed with
mead give it the flavour of Greek wines,” and this
is said to be unquestionably the source of the word.
Dr. Prior, in his “Popular Names of British Plants,”
states that “the Latin name, Regina prati, Meadow’s
Queen, has misled our herbalists, in their ignorance
of its use, to form the above strangely-compounded
word, Meadow-sweet.”

S. Ulmaria is « common British plant, bearing
yellowish-white flowers in summer, sweet-scented,
small, and numerous. It is a native of Europe and
Britain, flourishing in borders in any soil and in waste
places, and, like the foregoing, increased by division
of the roots. There is a double variety of this also,

CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING.

which makes an excellent border plant; and also ona
with handsome variegated foliage: _

‘S. venusta is known as the Queen of the Prairie
—a handsome. hardy perennial, a native of North
America and Siberia. Its lovely deep rosy-carmine
flowers are produced on stems from. two to four feet
in height, forming huge cymes six to twelye inches
across. It is undoubtedly one of the finest of the
Meadow-sweets, and one of the best of hardy peren-
nials for planting in a shady moist situation. ?

A recently introduced species is S. astilboides. It
is a native of Japan, and one of the most handsome
of hardy herbaceous perennials. The stems are fur-
nished with triternate leaves, and, terminated by
compound feathery branches of elegant white flowers;
it makes a charming pot plant for decorative pur-
poses in the early spring months; it is of free
growth, and its flowers are produced in the greatest
profusion.

There are many Spireas that are hardy flowering
shrubs, some of great beauty—such as ariefolia,

‘which produces large feathery panicles of white

flowers abundantly in July; Lindleyana, a noble
shrub from the Himalayas, with very large compound
leaves and immense bunches of white flowers, quite
hardy; opulifolia, with showy white flowers, succeeded
by red bladder-like fruit, which remain on the tree a
long time, and are quite as ornamental as the flowers;
vachysiuchys, that bears immense bunches of pinkish
flowers, abundantly produced ; prunifolia, a handsome
species producing double white blossoms ; salicifolia,
having erect spikes of rose-coloured flowers ; and
trilobata, when in blossom a mass of snowy flowers.
All the shrubby Spirmas are free bloomers, and are
very gay when in flower. Most of them, however,
throw up suckers rather too profusely.

The Catch-fly (Silene).—Silene is the generic
name adopted by Linneus from the Greek word
sielos, ‘‘spume or saliva,” on account of the sticki-
ness of some of the species. The common English
name — Catch-fly—-was given in consequence of
flies being often caught in the viscid fluid which, in
Some species, surrounds parts of the stem. Silene is
a very numerous genus, but comparatively few are
cultivated generally, and of these the hardy annuals
find most favour.

Of our British species, the best known are S.,
acaulis, the Cushion Pink or Moss Campion, and
S. noctiflora, the Night-flowering Catch-fly. Acaulis
means “stemless.”” Moss Campion refers to “the
number of heads of small green leaves, very thick set’
together in tufts, in that manner spreading much
ground, and covering it like Mosse;” so writes old
Parkinson, Campion is thought to be a corruption
of “champagne,” or open country, alluding to the

COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS. 347

native place of all the species. It is a very dwarf
Alpine herb, tufted into light green masses like a
wide-spreading Moss, but quite firm. It does well
in the rock-garden, in exposed parts, and in any

open moist soil. This
plant, though humble in
stature, aspires to the
highest of dwelling-
places ; for whether in
the British Islands. in
Germany,;or even Lap-
land, it is found only
near the summits of
mountains. It is said to
have been the last flower-
ing plant observed by
Saussure in ascending
Mont Blanc. /

S. noctifora is the
Night-flowering Catch- /
fly, and the common / #
name alludes to the time |
of flowering ; the border | j
of the petals being rolled _\ i /
inwards during the day, \ |
but unfolding in the
evening, and emitting an
agreeable fragrance in
mild weather. It is an annual, flowering in July,
and found in corn-fields on sandy or gravelly soil.

S. alpestris is the Alpine Catch-fly; a charming
evergreen rock or border plant, growing with the
greatest freedom in almost any soil or situation;
forming tufts of dark green foliage, completely
covered with panicles of glossy white flowers; grows
about six inches in height, and flowers in early
summer. A native of the Alps of Europe.

SILENE PENDULA.

S. Elizabethe is Elizabeth’s Catch-fly : a beautiful

species, the flowers of which look more like those of
some handsome but dwarf Clarkia than those of the
commonly-grown Silenes; it bears large bright rose-

NN coloured flowers in sum-
mer. It is a native of
the Tyrolese mountains,

\ and does well in the
| | rock - garden, in warm
\ i} spots, in well - drained

sandy loam, and on the
margin of the choice
mixed border. :

Silene maritima is the
Sea Catch- fly. The
double variety of this is
\ a choice hardy plant in

gardens, growing in the

torm of prostrate tufts
of glaucous foliage,
scarce an inch in height,
| bearing double flowers

as large as the old double
white Pink; very easily

i erown and exceedingly
tree-flowering, and one

of the most conspicuous

: rock-plants in culti-
vation. The single form is a native of several
parts of Britain and Norway.

S. regia is a very effective North American species,
growing about nine inches high, with rough erect
stems, thick leaves, and clusters of deep scarlet
flowers.

S. Schafta is a neat trailing autumn-flowering
species, with bright rosy-purple flowers. It is very
free-blooming, and makes a fine edging mass. It is

348

known as the Autumn Catch-fly, and is a native of
the Caucasus.

Of the annual Catch-flies there are several hand-
some varieties of Silene pendula, all hardy and early
flowering, therefore valuable in the spring gar-
den, They should be treated as biennials, sowing
the seed in July. In addition to pendula, with rose-
coloured flowers, there are its white variety, and its
double form also, but it is somewhat difficult to keep
it true when raised from seeds; ruberrima, with
crimson flowers and dark foliage ; Bonnetti deep rose;
and pendula
compacta, a

very dwarf
tufted form,
having rosy

flowers, and a
white variety
also; pseudo
atocion is a
very pretty,
free- blooming
pink - flowered
type. All do
well in good
garden soil.

The Rag-
wort (Sene-
cio). — Rag-
wort is de-
rived from
the German
ragwurz, @&
term expres-
sive of sup-
posed aphrodi-
siac qualities, -
and originally assigned to plants of the Orchis tribe,
as it is in Germany at the present day, and as we
find it in all our early herbals. In our modern floras
the name Ragwort is, for no other assignable reason
than its laciniated leaves, transferred to a large
Groundsel, Senecio Jacobea. The generic name Se-
necio is derived from senex, ‘‘an old man,” the naked,
dotted, smooth receptacle being like a bald head, the
down cf the seeds being white, and many of the
species hoary, all characteristics of age. The specific
name of the common Ragwort, Jacobea, is from
Jacobus, the Latin for James, because the plant
blooms about St. James’s Day, July 25th. It is a
very common weed in waste grounds and by way-
‘sides.

The common Groundse} of our gardens and fields
is Senecio vulgaris, and it is a favourite food of many
birds. Gyroundsel is from the Anglo-Saxon grund-

Senecio BALBISIANuS.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. °

swelge, “ground-glutton,” from grund, “ ground,”
and sweigan, “ swallow ;” still called in Scotland and
on the eastern border, Grundy-swallow.

Under the head of Jacobea we find in seed cata-
logues a group of hardy annuals, varieties of Senecio
elegans, known also as American Groundsels. They
are natives of the Cape of Good Hope, and have been
greatly improved by seedsmen. They are double- ,
towered, and of such good colours as crimson, blue,
purple, &c. Formerly they were much used for
bedding purposes, but are now somewhat neglected ;
too much so,
we think, for
although old-
fashioned,
they are very
pretty and
useful, grow-
ing a foot or
so in height,
and blooming
very freely
and continu-
ously. They
grow freely in
good garden
soil, and can
be raised from
seed with ease.
Why they
are termed
4“ American ”
Groundsels we
cannot say,un-
less they have
beenimproved
in quantity in
that country.
There are a few Senecios that are included among

choice hardy perennials—as, for instance, argenteus,

the Silvery Groundsel, very dwarf, and like a minia-
ture Centaurea ragusina. It is a native of the Pyre-
nees, and should be grown in a sandy loam as a
dwarf silvery edging plant.

S. Balbisianus, the variety figured, comes from
Piedmont.

S. Doronicum is a free-growing border plant, with
large golden-yellow flowers on stems twelve inches in
height. It is a first-class decorative plant, and very
useful for cutting from.

8S. incanus is the Hoary Groundsel from the South
of France, but is not so valuable or so easily grown
as S. argenteus; yet it is a pretty dwarf silvery-
leaved plant, forming dense tufts, and a little gem
for planting on rockwork.

S.. japonicus is an ornamental composite from

THE PINE-APPLE.

Japan, growing about four feet in height, bearing
Jax panicles of large golden flowers; quite hardy,
and well worth growing.

But the king of the herbaceous Senecios is S.
pulcher, known as Tyerman’s Groundsel. It is a
native of Uruguay, und was originally discovered
by Tweedie nearly fifty years ago, at the foot of the
Sugarloaf Mountain, near Maldonado, in South
Brazil. It was introduced to English gardens by Mr.
J. Tyerman, Tregony, Cornwall, who raised it from
seeds received from Buenos Ayres. It forms a valu-
able addition to our autumn flowers, and if plants
are lifted from the open ground just as they come
into bloom, placed in pots, and kept in an ordinary
green-house, they will flower freely. It is quite dis-
tinct from any other species. The leaves are fleshy,
and of a glossy dark green colour, the radical ones
measuring nine to ten inches in length. From the
centre rise numerous erect stems three feet in height,
terminating with branched cymes of brilliant purplish-
crimson. flowers with a golden-yellow disc, of good
form and great substance, measuring at least three
inches in diameter. It is exceedingly vigorous in
growth, and perfectly hardy, and it is in all respects
a first-class border plant.

THE PINE-APPLE.

By Writiam CoLeman.

INSECTS WHICH AFFECT THE PINE.

White Scale (Coceus bromelie)._This destruc-
tive insect spreads with alarming rapidity over the
largest collections of plants when it once finds its
way into the Pinery, and it is most difficult to
eradicate. It is a small, whitish-grey insect, and is
found firmly attached to the surface of the leaves,
where it feeds upon the juices, and very soon ruins
the plants. Many poiscnous and expensive remedies
have been proposed for cleansing the plants; but it
is questionable if any of them can be applied with
satisfactory results. Therefore, to avoid the heavy
loss, inconvenience, and annoyance which follow in
its wake, tho greatest care should be observed in the
introduction of fresh plants to a clean stock without
first placing them in quarantine sufficiently long to
allow the young to show themselves, and even then
to keep a sharp eye on them. The cheapest and best
way to deal with infested plants, and all that have
grown near them, is speedy committal to the flames,
root, soil, and stem, and to thoroughly cleanse with
caustic lime and burnt sulphur preliminary to a
new start with clean stock. Cultivators who have
tried once, rarely try a second time to cleanse a
house of plants—a pretty strong proof that the

349

remedies sonic eulogise are not so satisfactory as one
could wish. The following recipes are strongly
recommended :—2 lbs. sulphur, 2 Ibs, soft-soap, 3 Ib.
tobacco, 2 oz. nux vomica, 1 oz. camphor dissolved
in spirits of turpentine, boiled in 8 gallons of soft
water for one hour. When the liquid has fallen to
120° immerse each plant, roots and.all, having pre-
viously shaken away all the soil. After the plants
have drained and dried, re-pot and plunge in a clean,
fresh bed.

The late Mr. Tillery, of Welbeck, recommended
the following :—He says, “I mixed equal quantities
of the driest new soot and flour of sulphur together,
syringed the plants with a fine syringe, and then
dusted them, above and below, with a common sulphur
puff. It was done in the dead time of the year, and
not syringed off for three weeks. The syringing
washed the mixture into the axils of the leaves and
to the roots, where it acted as a stimulant when the
plants began to grow in the spring. Out of several
houses of plants so treated, not one insect survived.”

A very dear friend once supplied the author of
these pages with a few plants “‘ warranted clean.”
They were placed with sixty-five successions, worth
as many pounds. White scale broke out. Tillery’s
system was tried, and adhered to, to the letter; but
the soot and sulphur burnt the roots instead of
feeding them, and ultimately every plant was con-
signed to the fire.

Some Pine-growers have advocated placing the
plants in strong steam from fermenting horse-litter ;
others syringe with clean hot water at a temperature
of 120° to 130°; while others, again, say there is
nothing like paraffin, a wine-glassful to a gallon of
warm soft water, for syringing with. The latter
modern remedy is undoubtedly a most excellent one
if properly applied, otherwise it will soon kill the
strongest plants.

As paraffin does not mix well with water, it is
necessary for one person to keep the water and
paraffin in constant agitation with a syringe, while a
second, also with a syringe, applies it to the plants.
The Pines should be laid on their sides, to prevent
the paraffin from settling on the roots or resting in
the hearts, and in the course of half an hour they
should be well syringed with clean warm water
before they are re-plunged in a new bed.

Brown Scale sometimes gets on Pines from
other plants; but it is comparatively harmless, and is
easily destroyed by the first application of paraffin,
or water at a temperature of 130°. Before the
plants are dressed for brown or white scale, it is a
good plan to loosen all the insects that can be
conveniently reached with a hard, haif-worn painter’s
brush, to insure the destruction of the larve. Wher

350

once disturbed, the full-grown insects never again
establish themselves on the leaves of the plants.

Mealy Bug (Cocceus adonidum).—This- insect’ is
so well known to every gardener, and so much
dreaded by all who have had to contend with it in
fruit-houses, that further description of it may be
considered superfluous. It has already been treated
of under “ Vines.”

When it gets established on Pine plants, it is most
difficult to dislodge, as its white mealy covering
seems to protect and render it almost impervious to
hot water, unless it can be driven against it with
great force. It very soon spreads from the leaves to

the stems and roots, when it becomes almost as.

formidable, and quite as destructive, as the white
scale itself,'as it is capable of gaining a secure
resting-place under the soil and in every crevice
throughout the house in which the plants are
located. A great number of poisonous mixtures have
been recommended for its destruction, and were it
possible to bring every female under their direct
influence, there can be but little doubt that the next
generation of gardeners would know it only by name,
but disagreeable facts to the contrary prove that
annihilation has not yet been accomplished. Con-
sequently its first appearance should be the signal for
immediate warfare, and no pains should be spared,
even to the burning of infested plants, in preference
to allowing a single bug to remain in the Pinery.
By those who have the misfortune to be engaged
in the destruction of this loathsome insect, the
solution recommended for the white scale may be
applied; or the following, which has been taken
from the ‘“ Transactions of the Royal Horticultural
Society’: —“ To three gallons of soft water add two
pounds of soft-soap, eight ounces of sulphur vivum,
and two ounces of camphor; boil together for an
hour, and then add three ounces of turpentine.
Turn the plants out of the pots, shake out the balls,
and immerse the roots and tops in a trough filled
with the liquid, at a temperature of 120° to 130°.
Allow the plants to remain five minutes in the
liquid, turn them up for it to drain out of the
hearts, re-pot and re-plunge in a pit that has been
properly cleansed and prepared with fresh plunging
material.” All who have had to use these powerful
ingredients know how dangerous they are, and it
is now well known that turpentine is the most
active agent in the destruction of the insects.
With this knowledge for their guide, growers of
the present day have dispensed with all but the
spirits ; but instead of using turpentine, they apply
paraffin, one wine-glassful to a gallon of water, with.
the best possible result, provided the plants are
taken in hand before the bug gets into the soil.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

As previously advised, the water should be kept.

in constant agitation to prevent the oil from float- °

ing on the surface, during the operation of syringing.
The plants should be taken out of the beds, but not
out of the pots, and laid on their sides, heads inclin-
ing downwards, to prevent the spirit from lodging
in the hearts or reaching the roots, to which it might
prove injurious. In half an hour they should be
well syringed with clean water at a temperature of
90°, and left to drain before they are re-plunged.
Methylated spirit, as obtained from the chemist,
and applied with a camel’s-hair brush, causes in-
stant death to every insect which can be reached by
the hand. When operations of this kind are going
on, and for some time afterwards, prudence suggests
drawing down the blinds during bright sunshine.

VARIETIES OF PINES.

Although the varieties of Pines are numerous, it
is not necessary to grow many kinds to keep up
a supply of good fruit throughout the summer
and winter; and as many of the kinds formerly
grown have given way to the few which are now
considered the best, this list will be confined
to the names of those which have been found
indispensable in ordinary private Pine-growing
establishments. As all the varieties contained in
this selection of the best are not alike well adapted
to summer or winter, it is my intention to give a
brief description of each, with remarks as to their
keeping qualities and seasons of use.

The Queen.—Of this fine old Pine several varie-
ties are grown, but none are better than the Ripley.
It is a dwarf compact grower, with broad mealy
leaves, produces many suckers, and propagates freely.
Fruit: cylindrical, bright yellow, pips prominent,

‘but quite flat when perfectly swelled; flesh pale,

juicy, rich, and of first-rate quality. It is a sure
starter, finishes its fruit quickly, and on this account
is the best and most generally grown for giving a
supply for the early London season. As an exhibi-
tion Pine, its handsome appearance and ‘superior
quality always insure for it the first place in the
front rank. Its quality as a summer and autumn
Pine is not excelled, if equalled, by any other kind;
but being rather tender it does not swell well in
winter, when it is generally deficient in juiciness
and flavour. Weight of fruit, from three to eight
pounds. The latter weight is exceptional, but fruits
weighing from five to six pounds are now frequently
produced by successful growers, It keeps in good
condition three weeks after being ripe.

Hurst House, or Fairrie’s Queen.—This re-
markable Pine is well adapted for small places where

THE PINE-APPLE. 301

space is limited; but, being a very dwarf, if not a bad
grower, and a shy fruiter, it is only fit for summer
use. When under good management, it produces
fruit six pounds in weight. Owing to its dwarf
habit and much-recurved leaves, this Pine is easily
distinguished from all others. Three plants in
eight-inch pots can be grown in a space equal to
that occupied by two old Queens; the fruit, how-
ever, is not so handsome, neither is it so good. It
keeps good three weeks after it is ripe.

Thoresby Queen, or Bennett’s Seedling.—
Leaves very long, and broader than those of the
common Queen, upright and compact in growth,
with a light-coloured, mealy surface. Spines fine
and thickly set. Fruit large, six to eight pounds,
parrel-shaped, and broader than the better-known
Charlotte Rothschild; pips flat and even; flesh
deep yellow, firm, and moderately juicy. Flavour
goad, but not equal to any of the true Queens. It
has a small crown, and produces suckers freely.

Charlotte Rothschild.—aA strong spreading
grower, taking up rather more room than the Smooth-
Jeaved Cayenne. Leaves broad, leathery, slightly
curved, dark green on the upper side, mealy beneath,
thickly set with large strong’ spines, giving the plant
the appearance of an unusually robust Queen, which
the fruit also resembles. It starts freely into fruit,
which it swells to 2 large size, good samples weighing
seven to ten pounds. It is slightly barrel-shaped,
with large flat pips of a bright yellow, almost rival-
ling the Queen, but the quality is not so good when
ripened under the most favourable conditions. It is,
however, worthy of a place in the front rank, as it
stands well asa winter Pine. To bring out its full
flavour and quality it should be grown in a high
temperature, where it can have an abundance of solar
heat and light. If removed to a dry room before it
is quite ripe it will keep three to four weeks.

Smooth -leaved Cayenne.—This handsome
Pine has caused greater sensation amongst Pine-
growers than any other variety ; the leaves being
long, broad, dark green, and smooth or almost free
from spines. Inferior kinds have often been sub-
stituted for it to meet the demand for stock; but its
superior quality being so marked, the spurious
varieties are now seldom met with, and this splendid
Pine stands very high as a winter fruiter.

Fruit very large, cylindrical, oval, dark orange-
colour; pips large and flat; flesh pale yellow,
juicy and excellent. Average weight from six to
nine pounds.

Mr. D. Thomson, the most successful grower of
this fine variety in Britain, says of it :—‘ This is the

finest Pine I know for supplying fruit from October
to May. It swells more freely and is more juicy
than any other Pine that I have grown, and its
flavour is excellent.”

This is the variety grown by British gardeners in
the Azores, and with which every fruiterer’s shop in
England is so so well stocked from November to May.
Unfortunately it does not produce suckers freely.
The ways and means of making stock have been dis-
cussed in the chapter on Propagation. If removed
to a dry airy house before it is quite ripe, it will keep
five weeks in good condition.

Black Jamaica,—Of all the winter Pines grown
this is undoubtedly one of the very best, and it
should be in every choice selection where high
quality is appreciated. It is tall and erect in its
growth, with long, dark green leaves, tinged with red
and finely serrated. It can be grown and fruited in
small pots in a temperature which is considered too
high and dry for Pines generally, Fruit cylindrical
when well swelled, bronzy-yellow when ripe; pips
flat with a slight depression in the centre; flesh
firm, rich, juicy and highly flavoured. As it swells
well in winter, when it attains a weight of three to
five pounds, the principal stock of plants should be
in a condition for starting into fruit in August and
September.

Montserrat.—A variety at one time much grown
in the neighbourhood of Manchester, under the name
of Black Jamaica, was known to southern growers as
“‘ Montserrat.” It is a most delicious Pine, quite
equal to the Black Jamaica; but the plant and fruit
being smaller, the latter more barrel-shaped, it is
better suited to small houses where space is limited.
Unfortunately the demand for Pines of larger size has
almost thrown this variety out of cultivation. It can
be kept in good condition five weeks after it is ripe.

Lord Carington.—Although the history of this
fine Pine is not well known, thanks to Mr. Miles, the
clever gardener to the earl whose name it bears, it
is likely to soon become a general favourite. Like
the Jamaicas, a section to which it undoubtedly
belongs, it is an upright grower, with broad fleshy
leaves, the young ones tinged with brown; spines
medium-sized, thickly set. Fruit long, pyramidal,
dark brownish-yellow ; pips flat, but not so smooth
as those of the Jamaica; flesh fine pale yellow, rich
and very highly flavoured; weight four to’ seven
pounds. Like the preceding variety, the Lord Caring-
ton seems eminently adapted for winter culture, as it
swells well through the dark sunless months, and
ripens evenly from the base to the crown. As this.
variety is inclined to grow tall, it is very suitable for

352 .

placing in a back row in the winter fruiting-house.
It is a sure fruiter under Jamaica treatment, and does
well in a ten-inch pot. The section to which it
belongs should be a sufficient guarantee of its keeping
qualities.

Lady Beatrice Lambton.—This large, hand-
some variety was raised at Lambton Castle by Mr.
Stevenson some twenty years ago; but the credit of
bringing it before the public is due to Mr. Hunter,
the present gardener, who has exhibited remarkably
fine fruit, weighing from seven to ten pounds each.
It is déscribed as being of tall growth, with dark
green leaves, covered with an unusual quantity of
whitish mealiness. Fruit pyramidal with w small
crown, and closely set in the foliage ; pips broad and
flat, orange-coloured, bright yellow in the furrows ;
flesh pale yellow, abundantly juicy ; flavour rich and
excellent. Mr. Hunter reports its average weight
to be nine pounds, the heaviest he has cut weigh-
ing eleven and a half pounds, as being one of the
handsomest of the large varieties of Pine-apple, free-
bearing, more robust in growth and less spreading
than the Smooth-leaved Cayenne. Mr. D. Thomson,
the great authority on Pines, is now fruiting it
extensively, and speaks very highly of it. It should
be classed with the winter fruiters.

White Providence.—Though this Pine is now
seldom met with, the fact that it produces the largest
fruit should give a few plants a place in large collec-
tions. It is a tall, strong-growing variety, with broad
mealy leaves, is easily grown and fruits freely, The
fruit is oval, with large nearly flat pips of a reddish-
yellow colour ; flesh white, sweet, and juicy, but not
highly flavoured when ripened in summer. It is of
no value as a winter Pine, and does not keep long.

There are several other distinct varieties, such as
Moscow Queen, Enville, Black Prince, Prince Albert,
Globe, and Prickly Cayenne, which might be de-
scribed; but as they are not in every respect equal
to the kinds which have been proved worthy of a
place in this list, their enumeration only will suffice
for the guidance of those who may wish to give them
a, trial in their Pine-stoves.

THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE.

By D. T. Fisu.

ROSES FOR PILLARS, PYRAMIDS, ARCHES,
ARBOURS, TENT-BEDS, RUSTIC RESTS, &c.
HILE Roses multiply and increase at a ratio

and improve with a speed far exceeding all
the most fervid imaginings of the older Rosarians, it

‘ is more than doubtful whether our use and enjoy-~

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

ment of them is so appropriate and pleasing as
theirs. Under the Roses was with them synonymous
with the sweetest rest and most satisfying pleasure;
and they took pains to get under them. Hence.the
prevalence of arches, arbours, and covered seats in
gardens. To these, philosophers came to think, poets
for inspiration, lovers for sweet fellowship, and the
uneasy for rest. With the abolition of arbours,
shady flower-covered verandahs, and garden seats,
much of the restfulness, and not a little of the sweet
cultured enjoyment of the old-fashioned gardeners
of the older gardens, has passed away. The best of
gardens have now, certainly, more of promenades
than quiet resting-places such as those of which
Moore sings—

“In the time of my childhood it was like a sweet dream,

To sit under the Roses and hear the birds’ song.
* * * * * *

Long, long be my heart with such memories filled ;
Like the vase in which Roses have once been distilled;
You may break, you may shatter the vase, if you will;
But the scent of the Roses will hang round it still.”

And thus may the memory of some of the Rose
bowers or arbours in which Addison, Shenstone,
‘Wordsworth, Scott, or Moore sat or walked, cause a
revival of this innocent and useful form, of garden
ornament and furnishing ; for assuredly Roses never
look more truly “the glory of the day” than when
they shelter us with their verdure and beauty from
the noonday heat at midsummer, as we sit or walk
under their shadows, or gaze up at them flooded with
light or pearled over with rain or dewdrops,

While the foundations or base-lines of arches, &c.,
must of necessity be highly artificial, the art should
be as much as possible concealed by the Roses, so
that the results in general landscape should look
natural. To achieve this is most difficult ; still it is
more or less possible, and should be aimed at by
landscape gardeners. The weakest point in most
gardens, from a picturesque point of view, aro the
Roses—stiff, squat, or formal to a fault, as a rule.
By twisting them ovcr arches, allowing them to
wander wild and free over arbours, covered ways,
and seats, the Roses in our garden may be made to
equal, if not rival, in the same wild luxuriance and
artistic effects, those occasionally to be found in
out-of-the-way places. The highest art in the
matter of Rose-training is, as it were, to “clothe
upon art with nature.”

This is very difficult, next to impossible, in regard
to pillar and pyramidal Roses, but becomes compara
tively easy in regard to the covering of arches and
the clothing of seats and arbours.

Pillar Roses.—The distinguishing feature of
these is uniformity of breadth, as far as may bey.

THE ROSE AND

from base to summit. They may taper very slightly
towards a point at the top, but if they taper much
they simply merge into pyramids,

They may vary in height from six to ten or even
twelve feet. Pillars under six feet are hardly worth
setting up; they lose stateliness and dignity, the
chief merits of Roses of this character and form.
Nine feet is a capital height for this class of Rose,
and nine to eighteen yards apart is close enough
to plant them.
They look well in .
single, and better
still in double lines
—one on each side
of a main walk
or road. For the
latter, twelve feet
in height would
not be excessive,
provided they
could be grown
tolerably uniform
to that height.

Few things, how-
ever, savour more
of ambitious pre-
tence, indifferent
culture, or lack of
knowledge than
the. sight of un-
clothed pillars of
iron or wood with
Roses struggling
in vain to reach
their summits.
Better far than
such sights as
these, which are
all too common,
would it be to cut
down the pillars to match the growing powers or
climbing capacities of the Roses.

Pyramidal Roses.—These are seldom so lofty
as those grown as pillars, though there is no reason
in their form for any reduction of height; on the
contrary, their greater breadth of base would give
greater real and apparent stability to an increased
height of stem. They differ chiefly from pillar
Roses in their greater breadth at bottom and more
regular tapering from base to summit. Those not
familiar with pyramidal Roses or other trees can
hardly do better than choose for a model # sugar-
loaf enlarged in size to any desired extent.

Pyramidal Roses seem rather to have gone out of
fashion, chiefly on account of the craze for perfec-

47

ai iy eae
| 2

A Rose ARBOUR.

ITS CULTURE. 353
tion of bloom in Roses, chiefly or only. Neither
the form nor the best mode of clothing pyra-
midal Roses with 4 maximum amount of beauty,
by clothing them from base to summit with Roses,
favours mere size of single blooms. But thus
clothed and marshalled in rows on ‘either side of
main walks, or planted singly or in groups in any
part of the garden or pleasure-grounds, each pyra-
mid becomes a show in itself, compared with

which the most
| brilliant display of

Roses in boxes be-

comes stiff and
even poor.
Pyramidal Roses

are perhaps most
effective in double
lines, twelve or
eighteen feet apart
in the rows, with a
space of eighteen,
twenty - four,
thirty, or thirty-
six feet between
the rows. This
distance affords
room for a gravel
walk between, and,
if on turf, affords
ample space for a
delightful prome-
nade, from which
the Roses may be
seen and enjoyed
in all their richness
of floral grandeur.

As to the varie-
ties to plant for
running up into
pillars or spread-
ing out into pyramids, the more hardy Noisettes
and proliferous Ayrshire and Evergreen Roses
are among the best. The often-named Gloire de
Dijon and Gloire de Bordeaux form admirable
pyramids. Most of the free-growing Teas would
do almost equally well in warm localities and
sheltered places, while the Hybrid Chinas, Coupe
d’Hébé, Chenodole, Charles Lawson, Paul Verdier,
Vivid, and Madame Plantier are as well adapted for
pillars as for pyramids. Cheshunt Hybrid grows so
rapidly and blooms so freely that it is equally well
adapted for pillar or pyramid, and every addition to
this class of hardy Hybrid Teas will be eagerly wel-
comed for these purposes. But the more vigorous
and floriferous Hybrid Perpetual Roses are also ad-
mirably fitted for moulding into pyramidal shapes;

354 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

though they do not bloom all the year like the
Chinas or Teas, the majority of them bloom in the
autumn as well as in the summer. The foliage
of many of them is also so fine as to add another
element to their beauty. Many varieties also pro-
duce very good blooms from pyramidal plants,
though, of course, this is not a form that would be
chosen by the grower for exhibition, quantity of
bloom being far more to the purpose on pyramidal
Roses than the mere quality of individual blooms.
One of the oldest Hybrid Perpetuals, Baronne Pré-
vost, still forms one of the finest pyramids.

Roses for Pyramids.—The following Hybrid
Perpetuals are among the best varieties for this
purpose.

Anna Alexief.—Bright salmon-rose, very large.

Antoine Mouton.—Next to Paul Neron, the largest
Rose grown; rose with reversing petals, silvery.

Auguste Newnann.—Deep scarlet, shaded violet.

Baron de Bonstetten.—Dark velvety-crimson.

Baronne Haussmann.— Light red, blooming in
clusters. ;

Camille Bernardin.—Light red with white border.

Charles Lefebvre, and the climbing variety, both
form capital pillars, and have been already described.
The flowers of the climber are, however, not equal to
the older and better variety.

Charles Turner.—Vivid red, full and large.

Comtesse de Serenye.—One of the best show Roses
of the soft rose-coloured class, also a good pillar
Rose.

Countess of Rosebery.—Brilliant carmine.

Dean of Windsor.—Rich vermilion, shaded with
crimson.

Docteur Baillon.—Crimson-red, shaded with purple.

Dr. Hogg.—Pretty shell-shaped, deep violet.

Duchess of Bedford.—Brilliant scarlet.

Duke of Edinburgh.—Equally good asa show and
a pillar Rose; its rich vermilion showing brilliantly
in contrast with other Roses when placed in a line
with them as a pillar.

Ligeria.—Delicate silvery-pink.

Elie Morel.—Almost pure white, slightly tinted.
Félicien David.—Vivid red, suffused with scarlet.
General Jaequeminot.—Still one of the best for
vyramid or post, and one of the brightest of all the

scarlet Roses.

Gloive de Bourg La Reine-—About the most. bril-
liant of all scarlet Roses.

Glory of Cheshunt.—Bright crimson.

John Bright.—Rich glowing crimson.

Jules Margottin.—Rich rosy-carmine.

Louisa Wood.—Bright rose, very beautiful.

Madame Hippolyte Jamin,—White, with a slisht
tint of rose.

Madame Lacharme.—Pure white, slightly suffused
with rose; these are very effective in bud.

Madame Marie Cirodde.—Pure rose, large and full.

Madlie. Eugénie Verdier.—Soft flesh-coloured rose.

Magna Charta.—Bright pink, suffused with carmine.

Marchioness of Exeter.—Clear rose, shaded with
cherry. :

Maréchai Vaillant.—Brilliant crimson.

Monsieur LE. ¥. Teas.—Rich purple-cerise.

Mrs. Veitch.—Bright rose, large and good.

Paul Neron.—Deep rose, immense size.

Penelope Mayo.—Rich carmine-red.

Président Grévy.—Rich purple-red, blooming in
clusters.

President Willermoz.—Bright rose, large striking
foliage.

Red Dragon.—Dazzling crimson, very robust and
vigorous.

Reine des Blanches.— White, suffused with rose.

‘Souvenir de John Gould Veitch.—Crimson, shaded
with violet-purple.

Thomas Methven.—Light carmine.

Thomas Mills.—Rosy-carmine, with white stripes.

Arches and Arbours.—Roses for arches, chains,
tent-beds, arbours, drooping pendants, &c., should all
be of similar character, and it would only confuse the
general reader to maintain any further distinction be-
tween them. They should be of climbing habit, have
small and semi-evergreen leaves, flower in clusters
or very profusely, and continue in bloom as long as
possible. Hence if only sufficiently hardy, and could
it be induced to bloom perpetually or twice a year,
which it occasionally does to some extent, there is no
Rose to equal the Banksian asa climbing chain or
drooping Rose. As seeing is said to be believing, we
give an illustration in proof of this statement.

Unfortunately, however, it is scarcely sufficiently
hardy for our climate, though, as it is seldom actually
killed in the open, it is worth growing in warm and ,
sheltered places for the simple grace, decorative and
clothing value, of its leaves and branchlets alone.
Crossed with the Stanwell or Perpetual-flowering
Scotch Rose, the Banksian might produce a race
of most valuable climbing Roses, combining the
rare and valuable qualities of extreme hardiness,
delicious fragrance, and small leaves and flowers,
and plenty of the latter in continuity. As the hardy
Scotch Perpetual Rose is one of the sweetest of all
the many deliciously fragrant Roses, and is also a
stronger grower than any other of its interesting
class, it might be used to clothe the bottom of arches,
or run up the pillars of arbours, to form supports’
for drooping chains, &c.

Where the Maréchal Niel Rose can live in the open
through.the winter, it forms a magnificent Rose for

THE ROSE AND

arches, though its leaves and flowers alike set our
rules in favour of smaller blooms in climbers at
defiance. Yet, as an arch-clother, the Maréchal
Niel is simply and wholly magnificent. Its weak-
ness at the neck becomes a merit in such a position,
as the flowers all droop under the arches, where
they can be seen to best advantage. Celine Forestier
and Triomphe des Rennes, and Réve d’Or, also look
rich and beautiful on arches, in mild sheltered places.
Among the Tea Roses, Homer, Climbing Devoniensis,
Wm. A. Richardson, and the two Glories, Dijon and
Bordeaux, are the very best for arches, arbours, &c.,
though any of the Teas may be planted at the base
of the more rampant and truer climbers. Among
the more suitable for this purpose are Belle Lyon-
naise, Madame Trifle, Safrana, May Paul, Anna
Oliver, Innocente Pirola, Madame Denis, Madame B.
Durrschmidt (flesh, tinted salmon). The Hybrid Teas,
Cheshunt Hybrid, Prince Olga de Wurtemberg, and
Reine Marie Henriette, are also admirable on arches.
The so-called climbing varieties of the following
Hybrid Perpetuals, and most of those strong-growing
sorts already named and described as suitable for
pillars and pyramids, are also good for furnishing
arches, &c.—Climbing Bessie Johnson, Jules Mar-
gottin, Charles Lefebvre, Victor Verdier, Captain
Christy, Edouard Morren, Mdlle. Eugénie Verdier.

All the old-fashioned, strong-growing Chinas,
such as Gloire de Rosamene, Bourbon, and Noisette
Roses with their many hybrids, most of which will
be found in our list of garden Roses, are more or less
suitable for arches, arbours, &c. Such strong growers
as Chenodole, Fulgens, Blairii No. 2, Madame Plan-
tier, and Coupe d’Hébé will run over arches ten
feet high and twelve feet span. The climbing Aimée
Vibert will also run to almost any length.

But when all this rich and valuable furnishing
materialis exhausted, it will be needful still to hie
back to many of the oldest and hardiest of all our
climbing Roses for the furnishing of arches, draping
of dependent chains, and clothing of arbours and
garden seats with verdure and beauty.

Much may also be done in these directions by the
planting of strong-growing briar and other stocks,
carrying them over the arches or other structures to
be ultimately clothed with Roses, and budding any
suitable sort of Rose—such as the sweet and beauti-
fully clustered white Hybrid Perpetual, Boule de
Neige—on to the briar, just where they are wanted.
The curious possessor of only one arch might clothe
it by such simple means with almost any number of
separate and distinct Roses. ;

‘Boursault. Roses form admirable stocks, and the
following are still worth growing for their rampant
growth, beauty of foliage alike in summer and
autumn, and also for the brightness of their flowers

ITS CULTURE. 355
whilst they last, which is not long: Amadis, crimson;
and Gracilis, rosy-pink.

Almost all the Ayrshire Roses are worth growing
for these purposes: the three whites, Thoresbyana,
Rampante, and Countess of Lieven; the two whites
with pink or red eyes, Dundee Rambler and Splen-
dens, the last the sweetest of the family; and the
well-known flesh-coloured variety Ruga.

Among semi-evergreen climbing Roses the follow-
ing are the best :-—

Banksieflora.—White, with pale yellow centre.

Félicité Perpetuelle-—Small, creamy-white.

Leopoldine, or Adelaide & Orléans.—White, shaded
with rose.

Uyrianthes renoneule.—-Bluish, edged with rouse, the
centre sometimes white.

Donna Maria.—Pure white, flowering in large
houses. :

Flora.—Bright rose-coloured.

Princess Louise.—Rich creamy-white.

Spectabile.—Rich rosy-pink.

Princess Marie.—Small double red.

These Roses bloom in large clusters, and conse-
quently have a rich effect depending from arches,
chains, or arbours. From the fact of some of the
clusters containing so many as fifteen to fifty blos-
soms, and the staying properties of some of the double
varieties, the Evergreen Roses continue a long time
in bloom, Two or more of them, Rampante and
Spectabile, have also a dash of Perpetual blood in
them, and not seldom show a fair sprinkling of bloom
in the autumnal months.

There are several other vigorous and hardy climb-
ing Roses, mostly Prairie, or Multiflora Roses, or
hybrids from them.

Prominent among these is La Grifferaie, a pink-
coloured Rose of such vigour of growth that it has
been much used as a stock.

Laure Davoust.—Pink, fading into white, very
large trusses, rather tender.

Russelliana.—Dark crimson.

Baltimore Belle-——French white, double.

Madame @ Arblay.—Pure white, in large clusters.

Gem of the Prairies —Crimson, blotched with white,
very fragrant.

The Garland.— Unique in colour, nankeen and pink
fading into white.

Queen of the Prairies.—Rosy-purple, large and
double.

Madame Vivian Morel.—Bright carmine, with
rosy-white under petals.

Setina.—A fine American Rose, vigorous, with
delicate, silvery-pink flowers.

Tricolour.—Pink, mottled white.

To these may be added the Fringed Musk Rose,
and Rivers’ Musk, varieties of rapid growth, that

356

would be suitable for clothing the bases of arches,
arbours, &c.

The Single White Himalayan Briar Rose, Bru-
noniana, with yellow stamens; the Camellia Rose
of Japan, single white, with large yellow stamens;
Paul’s Single White and Single Red; and the
Waltham, Climbers, 1, 2, and 3, all strong-growing
red seedlings from Gloire de Dijon; and the Com-
mon, Scarlet, Double, White, and Celestial Sweet-
briar, should also be used for drapery as well as for
fragrance. True, their flowers do not iast long, but
while on arch or bower none are more brilliant or
beautiful, and the fragrance of Sweet-briar is indeed a
joy for ever.

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

By Witiiau Hueu Gower.

Pultensa.-—A showy family of Australian Pea-
flowered shrubs, which may be treated in the same
manner as previously recommended for Charozema.

P. ericoides.—Branches slightly tomentose ; leaves
linear; flowers in dense terminal heads, red and
yellow. Spring and early summer.

P. rosea.—A dwarf, compact, and handsome plant,
with closely-set toméntose leaves, and dense heads of
soft rosy-purple flowers. Spring and early summer.

P, villosa, a stronger-growing plant than either of
the preceding ; branches hairy ; leaves linear-oblong ;
flowers yellow. Spring months.

Rhododendron.—A family of plants now so
familiar to every one that a lengthy description
is quite unnecessary. They belong to the order
Ericacee, although at first sight there seems a wide
difference.

The numerous fine species from Northern India,
which were for the most part discovered and intro-
duced. to cultivation by Sir Joseph Hooker, Director
of the Royal Gardens, Kew, took all the plant-
growing public by surprise, and they were eagerly
sought after and highly prized. The majority of
these species are handsome strong-growing plants,
whilst some of them are dwarf, free-growing, and
profuse bloomers; these have been the originators of
a numerous class of small-growing hybrids, which
are rapidly and deservedly becoming favourites with
the horticultural. world, for independent of their
floriferous character and the great beauty of their
flowers, many of them are deliciously fragrant. A
few of the best and most desirable are here sub-
joined.

Rhododendrons should be potted in good sandy
peat, and are all very easily cultivated.

R. argentewm.—Leaves large, flowers white, beauti-
fully spotted with black. North India.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

R. Aucklandii—Flowers some five inches in dia~
meter, white, suffused with rosy-pink. North India.

R. Boothii—A fine variety; flowers soft buff-
colour. North India.

R. ciliatum.—A dwart-growing species, which has
been the parent of many fine hybrid forms now so
much admired; leaves small, obovate, bright green
on the upper side, glaucous beneath, hairy on the
edges ; flowers white or pale rose. North India.

R. Countess of Haddington.—A robust grower;
flowers large and extremely handsome, bluish-white ;
hybrid.

R. Dalhousie—A noble plant, with gigantic
flowers, produced in dense heads, white, suffused
with rosy-pink, very fragrant. North India,

R. Denisoni.—Flowers white, stained and spotted
with pale yellow ; hybrid.

R. Duchess of Edinburgh.— Flowers brilliant
scarlet, shading to crimson ; hybrid.

R. Duchess of Teck.—Tube creamy, ground pale
yellow, shaded with orange-scarlet; hybrid.

R. Edgworthii.—Leaves bright green above and
densely woolly beneath ; flowers large, white, tinged
with pink, very fragrant. North India.

R. fragrantissima.—Flowers white, shaded with
bluish, deliciously sweet; hybrid.

R. Gibsenii.— Compact grower; leaves small;
flowers white, tinged with bluish. North India.

R. jasminiflorum.—Umbels large; flowers tubular,
with a spreading limb, pure white with pink eye,
very fragrant. Mountains of Malacca.

R. javanieum.—Rich bright orange flowers. Moun-
tains of Java.

R. NuttalliiLeaves large; flowers pure white.
North India.

R. Prince of Wales.—A fine, compact-habited plant ;
flowers with long tubes, rich orange ; hybrid.

R. Princess Alexandra.—aA superb variety ; flowers
pure white, with long tubes; hybrid.

R. Prince Leopold.—Fawn-colour, tinged with rose ;
fine variety ; hybrid.

R. Princess Alice.—Flowers bell-shaped, very fra-
grant.

R. Princess Helena.—Tubes long;
pink, with darker shading ; hybrid.

R. Princess Mary.—Flowers white, tinted with
rosy-pink ; hybrid.

R. Princess Royal.— Flowers funnel-shaped, rich
rose-colour.

R. tubiflorum.—F lowers tubular, much contracted
in the mouth, dark reddish-purple, tinged with
bronze. Mountains of Java.

R. retusum.—Very dwarf; flowers reddish-orange.

R. Sesterianum.—Flowers large, pure white, spotted
with yellow on the upper petals, and very fragrant;
hybrid.

flowers soft

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 357

R. TayloriHeads of bloom very large; flowers
tubular, tube white, the spreading limb brilliant
pink; hybrid.

R. Teitehianum.—Flowers large, with crisp mar-
gin, pure white,
with pale yellow
markings at the
base. Mountains
of Moulmein.

R. Veitehianum
levigatum. — The
counterpart of the
preceding, but in-
stead of the beau-
tiful crisp edges,
they are plain in
this plant. Moun-
tains of Moulmein.

Richardia. —
These plants are
very showy ; better
known perhaps by
the old name of
Calla. Amongst
amateurs they will
be more familiar
.as the Arum Lily,
Wile Lily, Trumpet
Lily, &c., the last
mame being very
characteristic, al-
though they do
not belong to the
Lily family.

The genus bears
the name of a
celebrated French
botanist, and be-
longs to the order
alracee. They soon
make large mas-
sive specimens if
all the growths
are left on them;
but when confined
to single stems,
they produce the :
finest spathes, and in this condition are best adapted
for window plants, or indeed any kind of in-door
decoration. After flowering, Richardias lose their
leaves, and lie dormant for some time. In the
autumn they commence to show signs of returning
life, when they should be re-potted in good rich loam
and well-decayed manure, and be liberally supplied
with water. Treated in this manner, they will grow

RHODODENDRON JASMINIFLORUM.

vigorously, and produce their largo trumpet-shaped
spathes in the spring and early summer months.

R. ethiopica.—A bold-growing herbaceous plant,
producing from its ‘fleshy corm, large sagittate
cordate leaves,
which, together
with the long
clusping _ petioles
on which they are
borne, are of a
uniform bright
green. The plant
is indebted for its
beauty to the large
fleshy, pure white,
trumpet - shaped
spathe which sur-
rounds the flowers,
and not, as is the
usual case, to the
flower itself. It is
anative of swampy
places from Egypt
to the Cape of
Good Hope.

R. albo-maculata.
—Leaves sagittate,
bright green, pro-
fusely spotted with
ivory - white; the
spathe pure white.
It flowers during
the spring and
early summer
months. Cape of
Good Hope.

Solanum. — A
numerous genus,
which gives its
name to the order;
it contains plants
very diversified in
form and char-
acter, which are
widely distributed
over both hemi-
spheres. In some
instances they attain the dimensions of small trees,
others are dense shrubs; some are herbaceous, and
others simply annual plants. Their properties are
also very variable: some are very poisonous, and
others, such as ‘the Potato” (S. tuberosum), are
highly nutritious. ;

Some of the annual species of Solanwm have bold
leaves variously ornamented with large spines on the

358 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

upper side, and are very effective during the summer
months in the sub-tropical garden. 8. anthro-
pophagorwm is a robust plant, producing large dull
red fruits, which are not, however, sufficiently
numerous to render it very ornamental; these fruits
were formerly used in the cannibal festivities of the
Fiji Islanders. 8S. ciliatum, again, is a very orna-
mental kind; the fruits are large and bright orange-
red, but they do
not last very long
in beauty. S.
Melongena, and its
varieties, are re*
markable for their
large oval fruits
of various colours,
the plants being
known popularly
as “ege-plants”’ ;
these fruits are
much used in
French cookery,
and are known by
the name of Brin-
gals. All of these,
however, are far
surpassed in
beauty and use-
fulness by the
improved hybrid
forms of S. Cap-
sicastrum, which
are literally laden
with their large,
round or ovate,
bright scarlet
berries, that last
many months in
full beauty, and
may be used for
many decorative
purposes.

8. Capsicastrwm is easily obtained from seed, and if
kept growing through the season, will form handsome
plants the same season ; they vary much in the size
and shape of their berries, but when a fine variety is
obtained it should be propagated by cuttings in
order to perpetuate it; seeds of the finest berrics
should be sown, and each season the best ones can
be selected for a maintenance of the fittest. Where
small plants are required, they should be raised from
cuttings.or seeds every season, as the young plants
produce the largest fruits, and after their beauty
is past they may be thrown away; but if large
Specimens are wished for, thon cut the plants back
hard, and place in a close frame until they begin to

RIcwaRDIA ETHIOPICA.

push forth their young growths, then re-pot into
larger pots, and repeat the potting process as the
plants require it.

These varieties are very easily grown. On the ap-
proach of autumn, some few plants should be given
a little heat, which will speedily cause the green
berries to ripen and turn to the red of a soldier’s
coat, and thus a longer succession is obtained.

The soil they
thrive well in is
equal parts of
rich loam, leaf-
mould, and well
decomposed ma-
nure; and when
the pots are toler-
ably well filled
with roots, weak
soot- water may
be given about
once a week with
much ddvantage.

Sollya. — A
small genus of
the order Pitto-
sporacea, con-
sisting of half-
climbing shrubs,
of dwarf growth ;
indeed, they make
very pretty ob-
jects upon small
trellises.

Sollyas are
plants with simple
leaves and small
heads of blue
flowers; the co-
lour not being
very common,
they are usually
very attractive when well grown. For soil use equal
parts of peat and loam, and about a fourth part
sand. They are all from Australia, and all have
blue flowers.

The chief varieties are:—S. angustifolia, S. Drum-
mondit, S. heterophylla, and S. linearis.

Statice.—A large family of showy plants popu-
larly known as “Sea-Lavender,” and containing a
quantity of hardy species and varieties, which may
be reckoned amongst our most attractive border
plants, several being indigenous to Britain.

The green-house kinds are also very ornamental,
and maintain a rich display throughout the greater

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS,

part of the season, bearing large branched panicles
of flowers, which, however, individually are not
showy, but as the calyx and corolla are both
coloured the mass is very conspicuous.

Statices belong to the order Plumbaginacee, and
are characterised by their peculiar dry, papery,
funnel-shaped calyx, which’ is not divided into
lobes, but is entire, and usually blue or yellow, and
the corolla white. The soil should consist of peat
and light sandy loam; the pots must be well
drained, as they enjoy » liberal supply of water
when growing.

S. brassicefolia is a very beautiful species, with
large, deeply-lobed, dark green leaves, which are
slightly hairy; panicles much branched ; calyx deep
blue; corolla white. Summer months. The Canary
Isles.

8. Halfordii.A bold-growing plant with entire,
somewhat cordate leaves, dark green; flowers bright
blue and white, and borne on large much-branched
panicles. Summer months. Of garden origin.

S. profusa, also known by the name S. Rattrayana,
is a dwarf and compact-growing plant of garden
origin; leaves obovate, bluntly lobed, and dark
green; panicles much branched and dense; calyx
deep purple ; corolla white. It is almost a perpetual
bloomer.

Stenocarpus.—A small genus of Proteacee,
natives of the tropical parts of Australia and New
Caledonia. They require the same treatment as
Banksia and Dryandra.

S. Cunninghamii, sometimes called Agnostis sinuata,
becomes a lofty tree, but grows and blooms freely in
a young state in cultivation. The leaves are entire,
deeply sinuate, from nine to twelve inches long,
thick and leathery in texture, and dark green;
flowers in axillary racemes, arranged in the form of
a corona, rich orange-yellow, very showy and hand-
some. Queensland.

Tacsonia.—aA very beautiful family of climbing
plants, so closely resembling Passifloras that there
seems very little to distinguish them saving the
length of the tube in the flowers, and even this is
not a character to be depended upon; they are
gorgeously beautiful when in bloom, and some of
the kinds should find a home in every collection of
plants. For treatment see Passiflora.

T. eriantha.—This, like all the species, has three-
lobed leaves; the tube of the flower is very long,
the whole being rich rosy-pink in colour. Summer
months.

T. exoniensis.—Flowers large, freely produced,
colour rich crimson.

T. ignea.—Flowers bright fiery-red,

359

T. manicata.—Flowers a rich crimson-scariet.
Summer and autumn. Peru.

TL. mollissima—Not a free-flowering plant in a
young state, but very profuse with age; flowers
large, deep rose. Quito.

£. sanguinea.—Flowers large, deep blood-red.
Summer months.

T. Van Volxemi.—A very profuse bloomer during
the autumn months; tubes long, flowers large,
rich crimson-lake. New Grenada.

Tecoma.—A family of climbing plants belonging
to the order Bignoniacea, and nearly related to the
genus Bignonia. They require about the same treat-
ment, for which see Vol. I., page 278.

LT. capensis is a very fine bloomer, producing in
abundance its panicles of large rich orange-yellow
flowers; the leaves are pinnate, with small ovate
segments, serrated at the edges, deep green. Sum-
mer and autumn months. Cape of Good Hope.

YT. fulva.—An exceedingly beautiful species,
bearing a profusion of large rich-coloured flowers,
which are red and yellow during the summer and
autumn months. Bolivia.

T. jasminoides is a rapid-growing kind, producing
its charming soft pink and white flowers during the
late summer months. Australia.

Testudinaria.—A genus of climbing plants
nearly related to Dioscorea, and grown principally
in the gardens of the curious on account of its
weird and old-world appearance. There are a few
species only, and all are very similar in general
appearance. Pot in good rich loam.

T. elephantipes—This curious plant has a thick
woody root-stock, peculiarly ribbed and plated,
which has given rise to the names of Tortoise-plant
and Elephant’s Foot; the root-stock attains to very
large dimensions, often measuring three to four
feet in diameter, and nearly or as much in height;
it produces from the top several herbaceous twining
stems, which are furnished with alternate, cordate,
bright green leaves; the flowers are yellow, but very
small and insignificant. There is another species,
T. sylvatica, which resembles it very closely; the
root-stock, however, is usually flatter than 7.
elephantipes. Both are natives of the Cape of Good
Hope.

Tetratheca.—These plants belong to the small
order Tremandracee, and are frequently, though
erroneously, called Tremandras. All are natives of
Australia.

Tetrathecas are handsome, small-growing, Heath-
like shrubs, with soft linear leaves and axilliary
flowers, which only open on fine days; they always

360 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

close again at night, and if open in the day, when
rain is about to fall the Tetrathecas begin to shut up
their blooms.

They are very showy when in flower, and are well
suited for exhibition pur-
poses; the treatment re-
quired to obtain good
specimens is similar to
that recommended for
Ericas, but they will not
bear the exposure to the
full sun like those plants.
For soil use about two
parts of peat, one of
light loam, and one of
sand. Tetrathecas dis-
like fire-heat, but damp
and mildew must be kept
from them during winter
by a free circulation of
air.

T. ericoides.—A free
grower and a profuse
bloomer ; the leaves ar-
ranged in whorls, linear
and dark green; the

flowers rosy-lilac. May
and June.

T. hirsuta, — Leaves
small, oblong, clothed

with long hairs on the
upper side, downy be-
neath; it is an abundant
bloomer ; flowers purple.
Spring months.

T. verticillata.— A very
free grower, and almost
a perpetual bloomer ; it
makes very slender
branches, and the narrow
leaves are disposed in
whorls; these are slightly
hairy and bright green ;
flowers large, on long
foot-stalks, rich violet-
blue in colour. After
flowering, the stems
should all be cut back to
within one or two joints of the old wood. This
species blooms in the spring and summer months.
(The correct name of this is Platytheca galioides.)

Thibaudia.—The plants of this genus are re-
markable for the beauty of their flowers ; they belong
to the Vaccinie—an order we have noticed under the
genus Ceratostema—and require the same treatment.

TESTUDINARIA ELEPHANTIPES,

Thibaudias are deserving of the notice of all plant-
growers, though careful attention is requisite to pro-
duce good specimens and to keep them in health.

T. acuminata (Cavendishia acuminata).—A beautiful
evergreen shrub, with
drooping branches, and
alternate ovate lanceo-
late leaves, which taper
sharply to a point ; when
young these are purplish-
red, but change to dark
green with age; flowers
tubular, produced in
large clusters towards
the points of the shoots ;
tubes swollen at the base,
scarlet, tipped with
greenish-yellow. .Natu-
rally this plant is an al-
most perpetual bloomer ;
in cultivation, however,
it flowers during the
winter months. Ecuador,
at 10,000 feet elevation.

LT. cordifolia (Caven-
dishia cordifolia).—
Leaves broadly -oblong,
thick and leathery ‘in
texture, smooth, and deep
green ; flowers in dense
terminal racemes, tubes
tapering upwards, about
an inch long, and bright
rosy-red, tipped with
white. Winter months.
New Grenada.

T. coronaria ( Themisto-
clesia coronilla).— Aun ele-
gant shrub, with small
Myrtle-like leaves;
flowers tubular, on long
drooping footstalks;
tubes swollen at the base
and ribbed, deep red.
January and February.
New Grenada.

T. Jessice.—A robust
plant with large broadly-
ovate leaves, which taper to a long point, eight to
ten inches long, bright green above, paler below:
racemes almost sessile, dense; flowers large and
tubular, swollen at the base, both calyx and corolla
being soft rosy-red. Autumn months. Caraccas.
(Correct name Psammisia Jessica.)

T. sarcantha (Pi isia sarcantha).—Leaves broad,
somewhat ovate, leathery in texture, dark green;

FLORISIs FLOWERS.

flowers tubular, much swolien at the base, deep red,
tipped with yellowish-green. The early spring
months. New Grenada.

Vaccinium.—This genus is the type of the
order to which so many beautiful plants have been
referred in previous pages, and to it belong our
native species, which are popularly known as Cran-
berry, Bilberry, Blueberry, and Cowberry, the
fruits of which are great favourites with grouse and
such-like birds.

The exotic kinds require the same treatment as
recommended for Ceratostema.

V. Imrayi.—This can scarcely be called a showy
species ; it is, however, very peculiar and interesting.
A bold-growing plant with ovate-acuminate leaves,
leathery in texture and shining deep green; racemes
crowded into dense heads at the points of the shoots;
flowers large, campanulate, yellowish-green. It re-
quires to be kept rather warmer than its allies.
Summer months. Island of Dominica, at consider-
able elevations.

V. reflexum.—A charming plant, with long, slender,
pendent branches; leaves closely set, small, some-
what oblong, leathery in texture, deep shining green
above, vinous-red beneath ; flowers in dense clusters
at the ends of the shoots, coral-red. Winter months.
Bolivia.

V. Roltissonii.—In this we have another tropical
species, but it does not require great heat; it is an
erect-habited plant, having angular branches and
obovate leaves, leathery in texture, and deep shining
green; racemes terminal; flowers bright scarlet.
May and June. Mountains of Java.

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS.

By Ricuarp Dean.

The Petunia.—The term Petunia is derived
from petun, the Brazilian name for Tobacco, to
which the Petunia is allied. The fine varieties now
in cultivation have in all probability sprung from
the white-flowered P. nyctaginiflora, the Marvel of
Peru flowered Petunia, introduced from South
America in 1823, and P. violacea, the Violet-coloured
Petunia, introduced from Buenos Ayres in 1831; so,
as compared with many other plants, the Petunia is
of comparatively recent introduction. These were
cultivated, and being found by our English florists
to seed freely, seedlings were raised; and the pro-
geny showing a tendency to vary, crosses were made
with the best varieties, the result being the pro-
duction of new and improved forms. These were
taken in hand and grown for exhibition purposes, a

5ui

dwarfer and more compact habit of growth being
associated with larger, stouter, and better-formed
flowers ; eventually the most promising were named,
and in this way the Petunia came to be regarded as
a highly desirable and popular plant. In the first
efforts in crossing the Petunia, the early productions
were much alike in character. It isa fact that in
the first generation all hybrids are much alike, but
in the second they vary in the most remarkable
degree. Thus, in the case of the Petunia, some of
the first seedlings reverted to the white species,
others to the violet type; some showed tints of
colour between the two. Then, by fertilising these,
a third generation was obtained much more parti-
coloured, and eventually these gave extremely
varied forms. In all crosses of this character the
fancy of the operator will actuate him to select
what forms he pleases as his models, whether sym-
metrical in form and harmonious in colour on the
one hand, or grotesque in outline and ill-defined and
confused in colour on the other; but the variations
of any flower that are to find a place in the garden
should at least partake of the characteristics gener-
ally considered essential by florists—form, colour,
substance, distinctness, &c.—and not be hideous and
unlovely formations merely, that have neither
attractiveness nor utility to recommend them. To
these essential points must be superadded a short,
stiff, and yet vigorous habit; a propensity to
flower freely ; and, as far as it can be obtained, a
hardihood that can sustain to some extent, when
bedded out of doors, the effects of cold and inclement
weather, which is sometimes characteristic of an
English summer.

For a time the flowers of the Petunia were single.
Then, as one of the results of selection, added petals
began to show themselves in the centres of some of
the flowers. These were carefully fertilised with
the pollen from blossoms of a like character, and
eventually a race with fully double flowers was
obtained. They, like the single forms, vary con-
siderably in character. Some are compact and small
in size, others loose and very large. Of late years
there has beer obtained from the Continent a strain
of both single and double Petunias of strong spread-
ing growth, and very large, loose, but singularly rich
and fantastically marked flowers. The favourite
English section is represented by a strain of compact
growth, and small-sized, well-formed, finely-striped,
and self-coloured blossoms, both double and single.

In regard ta the cultivation of the Petunia, it
may be observed that such fine varieties can now be
obtained from seeds, that naming of distinct kinds
is seldom resorted to. Raisers of fine varieties,
desirous. of preserving a new and distinct variety
which pleases them, do so by means of cuttings, but

'

362

nurserymen’s catalogues in the present day seldom
contain lists of varieties of named Petunias. In
order to obtain cuttings, the best method is to keep
a few plants through the winter in an ordinary
green-house ; and if these are put into a gentle heat
in the month of February, they will break forth
into a number of young growths; and when these
are from one and a half to two inches in length,
they make excellent cuttings. If inserted in pans
of silver sand or light sandy soil, kept thoroughly
moist and placed in a brisk heat, the cuttings will
be rooted in afew days, and they should then be
potted singly into small pots, in a light compost made

up of silver sand, loam, and leaf-mould, be placed in.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

make excellent plants for green-house and con-
servatory decoration, lasting in bloom for -a long
time. The dwarfer and more compact - growing
double varieties are well suited for this purpose.
In order to have a good supply of plants, growers
of Petunias for exhibition take some cuttings in
August or early in September, and about a dozen
of these are inserted in six-inch pots in good
light soil, then watered very gently, and kept close
in a frame and shaded for a week or so, and finally
removed to a warm green-house to be kept for
stock. In the early spring they put forth growths
more quickly than do older plants, and they can be
struck as indicated above. If extra strong specimen

a

Perounias, SINGLE AND DOUBLE.

heat again to get started into growth, and then
removed to a cooler temperature to get hardened off
a little, and finally placed in the green-house. In
order to make nice bushy plants of these, the main
shoot should be pinched out, and as soon as fresh
. Shoots are formed, the plants should be shifted into
larger-sized pots. Never stop and re-pot at the same
time, is a rule of universal application in cases of
this kind. Those who have no heat, but desire to
strike a few cuttings, must take them later in the
season, when the wood is stouter and harder; and if
these are inserted in pots of fine soil, and placed on
a warm shelf in a grcen-housce, they will strike root.
If the pots of cuttings can be placed under a bell-
glass (which will need to be shaded from the sun)
they will strike -all the more readily, and when
rooted they should be potted off and grown on as
recommended above.

We often observe in schedules of prizes at hor-
ticultural exhibitions, classes for specimen Petunias
grown in pots. In this form they are very hand-
some and attractive if well grown, And they also

plants are wanted, the best of the autumn-struck
cuttings are selected, potted, and grown on during
the winter, well looked after, and on no account
allowed to become pot-bound. Thus a good start
is secured, and the plants go ahead with great
rapidity in early spring. To have fine exhibition
plants, take at the end of March spring cuttings
that have been stopped twice; the last time of
stopping at about the fourth or fifth joint. As soon
as they begin to break, they should be shifted into
five-inch pots, using a compost made up of one-
half good loam, one-quarter leaf-mould, and one-
quarter peat and sand. After this shift, and as soon
as they begin to grow, they will require a lower
temperature. The grower must keep stopping
according to the best of his judgment, tying out tho
main branches so as to secure a good bottom to the
specimens and wa symmetrical shape. About the
first or second week in June the plants should be
stopped for the last time, pinching back every shoot,
and doing this so as to preserve the symmetrical
character of the specimen. The plants so treated

FLORISTS’

will require but little tying. By the middle of J uly
they should have their last shift, placing them in
nine-inch pots or a size larger, using a compost of
one-half fibry loam, one-quarter leaf-mould, and
one-quarter rotten cow-dung and sand, equal parts of
each. As the plants grow, great attention must be
paid to pegging down and training, also to watering,
for if at this period the specimens be allowed to
become dry at the roots, it proves very injurious to
them. As the buds begin to swell, the plants will
require stimulating with liquid manure, which
should be given them rather weak every time they
are watered, until the flowers begin to expand, after
which it should be discontinued. They will require
shading from the hot sun. Such plants will be
im fine condition at the end of August or beginning
of September.

As far as the general garden culture of the Petunia
is concerned, it is simply necessary to sow the seed
early in March, in heat, pricking the little plants
into boxes of fine soil, if a number of plants are
required. If only a moderate quantity are wanted,
they can be pricked off into pots or pans; when
these are hardened off in a frame after they have
commenced to grow, they can be planted out of
doors in beds, a foot or so distance between the
plants, and if required they should be watered in
dry weather. These plants will begin to flower in
July, and continue until the frosts and rains of
autumn destroy their beauty. A few pods of seed
should be gathered from the best varieties for sowing
in early spring.

It may be added that in the West of England,
and especially in Wiltshire and- Somersetshire,
exhibition Petunias are trained to circular wire
frames, perfectly fat, and which can.be fixed in the
soil of the pot in which the plant is growing by
means of a peg; these frames when so fixed incline
backwards somewhat, and are therefore on a slope.
The plants are trained over the frame, and when
they are fully in bloom, they are densely covered
with their bright blossoms, and make a very effective
display.

A few of the best named Petunias are as follows:

SINGLE VARIETIES

FLOWERS.

Cratere, bluish- ‘le.

De Candolle, deere esa.

cot bright —_lilac-
e.

Hermione, white,

363

Madame Hengist, purple,
edged white.

Marie Careme, light rose.

Neptune, white and lilac.

Ophelia, white and purple.

Avalanche, pure white.

Delicata, white and purple.

Dr. Daniel, rich crimson.

Elegance, white, barred
crimson.

Juno, rosy-purple.

Lady Jane, rose.

Little Pet, soft pink.

Mrs. A, Mayes, white and
le.
Mrs. H. Cannell, white and

crimson.

Mrs. S. Hibberd, white and
maroon,

Purpurea, purple.,

Spittire, bright purple.

Dovsie VARIETIES.

Adonis, white, blotched
purple, q
Antigone, rosy lilac,

Arc-en-Ciel, mauve and
white.

‘Berenger, rose and lilac.

Hibernia, rosy-purple and
green.

Perfection, deep rose.
Rubens, rosy-mauve and

La Chine, pi Wisliconi son. white.
M. <A. Lohier, white, Tapageur, rosy-purple and
blotched with magenta. white.

The Phlox.—This well-known plant, so common
in many gardens all over the country, does not
appear to possess a common name that is generally
recognised, therefore we can write of it simply as the
Phiox. It takes its name from phloz, “flame,” sug-
gested by the brilliancy of its flowers. Phloxes can
be divided into three distinct sections: Ist, the
herbaceous, which are hardy perennials, but lose
their foliage in winter ; 2ndly, the perennial, which
retain their foliage all the year round; and, 8rdly,
the annual, as represented by Phlox Drummondii. The
race mostly grown in England consists of varieties
obtained from P. decussata, which means “the Cross-
leaved Phlox.” When two right lines cross each
other at right angles they are said to be decussate ;
leaves are often placed in this position. P. decussata
came originally from North America. There is
another distinct type named P. suffruticosa, suffru-
ticose meaning shrubby in a slight degree; and the
varieties forming this section appear to be much
more grown in Scotland than they are south of the
Tweed. Really they appear to possess much in
common with the former section, but they are
dwarfer in growth and earlier to flower. On the
other hand, the varieties of P. decussata are of taller
and more robust growth; the stems are more naked
at the base, throwing out lateral flower-stems towards
the top. Well-established plants of both sections
grow freely in good soil, and throw up several main
stems, crowned with fine spikes of flower. New
varieties are constantly being raised from seed both
in the United Kingdom and abroad, the result being
that we now possess collections of great merit, and
it is common to see the flowers exhibited at flower
shows in a cut state. In hundreds of cottages and
old-fashioned gardens throughout England, and
especially in the south, south-east, and west, can be
seen huge clumps of these Phloxes, throwing up
many spikes of fluwer year after year, that are
objects of considerable beauty in summer; but
having no special cultivation, the flowers are poor in
quality.

The propagation of the Phlox is a very simple
matter. The roots, which largely increase in size in
a year or two, can be divided and made into several
plants, and these re-planted. But when a quantity is
required, it is usual to make cuttings in early
autumn of the young growths thrown up from the

364

roots at that season. it these are taken off just
below a joint when five or six inches in length, and
put into pots of light sandy soil pressed firmly about
them, and then stood in a cold frame, they will root,
and make very useful plants for the following
season. Or if old plants in pots be placed in a brisk
heat in early spring, they will throw out young
growths, and from these cuttings can be made and
put in pans of sandy soil, kept moistened, and on a
bottom heat, and they will strike root ina very short
time. They are then potted off singly into small
pots, hardened off, and placed in a cole frame for a
time, to become inured to exposure.

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

the seeds germinate irregularly, many of them not
till months after being sown. .

Selection of varieties of P.. suffruticosa, or early-
flowering Phloxes :—

Allan McLean. Mrs. Hardie.
Annie Lockhart. Mrs. Hunter.
Burns. Pauline.
Clipper. The Shah.
Hercules, Van Houtte.
Linnet. Venus.
Magnum Bonum. Vulcan.

Selection of varieties of P. decussata, or late-

flowering Phloxes :—

Andrew Keddie. |
Austen Withers.

George Sand.
Jeanne d’Are,

Puiox DrummMonpil.

Young plants intended to flower in the open.

ground should be transplanted into a rich deep loam.
The stronger and more holding the soil, the finer
will be the spikes of flower. As the flower-stems
rise in height, they should be neatly tied to stakes,
to secure them from being blown about by the
wind. The plants need to be kept watered in dry
weather, and it is a great assistance to the plants,
especially when they are required for exhibition
purposes, to thoroughly cover the surface of the bed
with short dung, as this keeps the soil cool and moist,
besides being a valuable fertiliser. This is what is
termed “ mulching.”

Then the herbaceous Phlox can be raised from
seed, and it is in this way that new varieties are
obtained. Some of the varieties produce seed fairly
freely, and in order to secure germination as quickly
as possible, it should be sown as soon as it is ripe,
using a shallow pan or box, and a sandy loam mixed
with leaf-mould, which should be placed in a cold
frame and kept moist. Some patience is needed. as

Baronne Schlickler. John Alexander.
Becky. Lucie Baltet.

Cameron. Madame Verschaffeldt.
C. Darwin. Mrs. James Anderson.
Cortambert. Pelleton

De Freycinet. Suffrage.

Frederic Faullie, Victor Hugo.

There is a section of extra dwarf-growing varieties
of P. decussata, which form a very elegant group,
entirely distinct from the two preceding sections,
and are specially fitted, from their dwarf habit, for
growing in pots, for they assume a comparatively
miniature growth, neat and compact in appearance,
and produce large heads of bloom :—

Atlante. : Michel Servantes.

Cassiope. Montezeuma.
Concours. Le Soleil.
Floreat. Tomboucton.
General Frolow Protec.
Malgache. Toreador.

Perennial Evergreen Phloxes.—These are
in the main what are known as 'procumbent species,
and are very useful indeed for covering rockwork

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS.

and placing in borders. There is P. nivatis, which
forms dense evergreen tufts, growing two or three

365

and is very handsome. P. frondosa is also a charm-
ing species, and bears bright rose-coloured flowers

Group oF Punks.

inches in height, and clothes itself in April with
many pure white flowers. It is an excellent com-
panion to the purple Aubrietias. P. verna flowers
very early in spring, producing heads of red blossoms,

early in the season. P. Nelsoni is also white-flowered,
and makes a dense carpet of evergreen Moss-like
foliage. Then there are P. setacea, and several of its
varieties, all of which form dwarf compact masses

366

of evergreen foliage, covered in early spring with
bright, lively-celoured blossoms, varying in the
variety from white to deep rose, and all perfectly
hardy. This group of hardy Phloxes is earnestly
commended to the attention of our readers.

Phlox (Annual), P. Drummondii.—This very inte-
resting species was sent over from Texas by Mr.
Drummond in 1835, and in the original form the
blossoms were of a rosy-red colour. Since the
species was received, half a century ago, many
varieties have been produced, and they have also
become considerably improved in point of size and
colour. The German florists have obtained a section
known as grandiflora, or large-flowered; and one of
the varieties, named Splendens grandiflora, is among
the most beautiful half-hardy annuals in cultivation.
The varieties come true from seed, and if a little
seed be sown in a gentle heat in early spring, they
will soon germinate; and when the plants are large
enough they should be pricked off into pots or boxes,
or into a prepared bed in a cold frame, there to
remain until they are wanted for planting out in the
open ground. :

There is a section of annual Phloxes selected from
P. Drummondii, perhaps fertilised with the pollen of
some other form, known as P. Heynholdi ; they are
of dwarfer and more compact growth, but not nearly
so handsome or so effective in the flower garden.
We cannot recommend them.

The Pink.—This is the Dianthus plumarius of
botanists, and the common name Pink is derived
from a supposed Dutch word, pink, meaning an eye.
The Pink, according to Linnzus, is a native of the
colder parts of Europe, and it is also found in the
North of England, and is known in some districts as
the Pheasant-eyed Pink. It is said the Pink was
first cultivated about the year 1629; and since then,
by means of cultivation, it has sported into many
new and beautiful varieties. It is during the present
century that such’a marked improvement has been
made in this flower. We may venture to assert that
a Pink called Major’s Lady Stoverdale, raised from
seed in the southern parts of England by the person
whose name it bears, was the first variety that de-
served to be classed among such as are now held in
esteem by florists; this was produced about 1770,
and was the first Pink possessed of that singular and
beautiful ornament called a “lacing,’? which is a
continuation of the colour of the eye round the
white or broad part of the petal. The original Pinks
had toothed or serrated edges to the petals, and the
first objects of the florists who attempted their im-
provement were to extend and intensify the lacing,
and to secure rounded instead of serrated edges to
the petals. After many years of patient labour

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

these objects have been accomplished, as can be seen
in the fine round varieties of the present day.

This has long been a favourite flower with many,
because so hardy, so free of bloom, and so exquisitely
fragrant; but of late years it has unfortunately ceased
to be grown so much as it deserves to be, especially as
a subject for exhibition. There are, however, indi-
cations that a new interest is being taken in it; and
a revival of the Pink may take place at no distant
date.

The fine laced florists’ Pinks are not cultivated in
pots, but in the open air. The usual practice is to
cultivate them in beds carefully prepared and raised
above the level of the ground. In preparing the bed, a
good quantity of well-decomposed manure should be
dug into it; for a stimulus of this kind is necessary
in order to have the flowers well laced. The bed
should be prepared some time before planting, and
the soil forked over occasionally to become sweetened
and mellowed by exposure. It is all the more neces-
sary that the bed be raised if the soil be wet and
retentive—even to a height of nine or twelve inches,
and rounding off the sides to throw off heavy rains
that fall in autumn and winter. ,

The work of planting the beds is generally done:

from the middle of September until early in October,
so that the plants can establish themselves before
winter sets in. The usual practice is to plant in
lines, having the plants eighteen inches to two feet
apart. During the winter the beds should be kept
free from weeds, and the surface soil stirred in dry
weather. If frost happens, and the soil about the
plants becomes loosened, it should be pressed firmly
about the roots so soon as it can be conveniently
done. In March a top-dressing will be found of
great service.
partially decomposed manure, or half-rotten cow-
dung if the soil be light; and it is a good plan to
place boards round the sides of the beds, or turves
can be used for the same purpose, thus bringing the
surface to a level, or nearly so, that the plants may
receive copious waterings as required without danger
of the water running off at the sides. During April
and May the surface of the bed should be kept
stirred, and at the end of the latter month fresh top-
dressing may be added with advantage, and water
given copiously twice a week if at all dry; and in
June and July a good head of bloom should reward
the cultivator. As a matter of course, those who
grow Pinks for exhibition disbud their plants so as
to throw all their strength into the production of a
few finely-marked flowers, and superfluous side
growths are removed for the same object.

If any grower is unable, from causes over which
he may have no control, to plant his bed so early in
the season as he would like, it will be better to pot up

This should be in the form of '

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS.

his plants in a suitable soil and winter them in acold
frame, than run the risk of planting them out and
not getting them established before the winter sets
in. The latter is a matter of vital importance in the
successful culture of this fine old flower.

The propagation of the Pink is accomplished by
means of pipings or cuttings. To do this effectually
a ptping-bed is necessary, which is made up of stable
manure, or this and leaves mixed together. The bed is
built up as one would a hot-bed, and the time allowed
between doing this and piping is no more than is
requisite to get rid of the heat, none being required
forthe pipings. The compost necessary for the pur-

‘ pose should be previously prepared—it needs to be
sharp and sandy ; a good one is made up of half road
scrapings from a gravelled road, a good proportion of
sharp sand, and the remainder of decomposed leaf-
mould and a little turfy loam.

Pipings are made from what is termed the “ grass ”’
thrown out round the sides of the plants. These can
be slipped off by the hand, stripping the foliage from
the stem to the third joint, and then with a sharp
knife cutting it off close under the bottom joint,
taking care not to injure the buds. The pipings
thus prepared are placed in water to stiffen, in order
that they may be more easily planted in the ground.
Previously to this the soil is placed on the bed to the
depth of four or five inches, and then the pipings are
pricked into the soil about an inch apart, and
arranged in groups according tc the shape and size
of the hand-glasses used to cover them; and having
filled the requisite space, they should have a slight
sprinkling with water, and the hand-glass placed
over them, but not close down until the wet has
dried from the foliage. The pipings must be shaded
from the mid-day sun, and this is best done by
placing hoops, covered with light calico, over the
glasses. These shades should remain over the cut-
tings for a considerable portion of the day when the
sun shines brightly. After six or eight weeks have
passed the glasses may be removed entirely, and in
seven or eight days more the young plants may be
planted out im a prepared bed to strengthen, pre-
paratory to being planted out in autumn in the
blooming-beds.

The following varieties form « very useful selec-
tion of laced Pinks :—

Bertram. Lady Craven.

Boyard. Mincroa,

Charles Turner. Mr. Hobbs.

Clara Mrs. Howern h.

Christabel. Mrs. Waite.

Dr. Maclean. Prince Frederick Wil-
a. liam.

Ernest. Reliance,

Galopin. Eosy Gem.

G ry. Rosy Morn.

Harry Hooper. Sarah.

Jessica, Shirley Hibberd

John Ball. Victory.

John Buxton. William Paul.

367

Foreing Pinks.—There is a useful section of
Pinks, including a few very choice and fragrant varie-
ties, that are of great value for the forcing into bloom
previous to the ordinary Pinks flowering. And in
order to have these well in bloom, it is essential to
have them thoroughly established in pots; and they
should be brought on gradually, but not forced too
much, and especially not in too great a heat; and
they should be placed as near the glass as possible, and
have a little weak manure-water about twice a week.

This class of Pinks should be prepared as soon as
Pipings can be obtained, and they will be found to
strike freely in a gentle bottom heat. So soon as
they have struck root and will bear re-potting, they
need to be shifted, and by-and-by planted out in a
bed during the summer, and potted up early in the
autumn to bloom. A few of the best of these are:—

Anne Boleyn. Lord Lyons.
Ascot. Mrs. Simkins.
Clifton White. Newmarket,
Derby Day. Rubens.

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS.

By Dr. Maxwe.t T. Masters, F.BR.S.

GROWTH.

S a consequence of the processes of nutrition
which have been sketched in previous sections,
we have now to consider the phenomena of growth.
In the first place we must make a distinction be-
tween growth, extension, and development. Though
inseparably connected, these processes are different ;
moreover, the difference is practically important,
because the conditions requisite for the one are not

the same as for the other.

By growth is meant increase in bulk, the result of
the formation of new tissues; old cells divide, or
bud out into new ones, and so the organ increases in
size without any necessary change of structure or
other difference than that of size.

By extension is meant mere elongation or stretch-
ing without the addition of new material.

By development is meant a progressive change in
internal structure and external form from a simpler
to amore complex condition—a change that becomes
requisite to enable the plant or any of its parts to
fulfil different offices.

To start with, all plants consist of a mass of pro-
toplasm which ultimately becomes shut up in one
cell. In due course the protoplasm divides, the old
cell-wall disappears, new ones are formed around
each of the divisions of the protoplasm, and thus an
aggregate of cells of similar size and form is pro-
duced. We might suppose a plant of such humble
organisation growing in this way, without further

368

change, so long as sufficient nutriment were afforded
and so long as circumstances remained unaltered.
In point of fact such relative stagnation often does
occur. We see commonly the “mould” or spawn
of a fungus maintaining its existence for very
long periods, but not developing into any other
stage of growth. So among higher plants we
have illustrations of the same thing in the fact that
we may grow certain plants
jn our stoves year after year
without inducing them to
flower or materially to alter
their character. Change the
conditions, supply a little
more heat, a little less water
at particular seasons, a fuller
exposure to light, and the
heretofore sluggish plant
wakes up into new life, and
forms flowers, fruits, and
seeds. In other cases, the
soft “herbaceous” stem
stiffens into woody branches,
the leaves become altered in
character, and assume the
form of petals or of stamens,
still further changes take
place in the pistils as they
ripen into the fruit, and
the ovules mature into
seeds. All these are phe-
nomena ‘of development,
inseparable from growth,
but obviously different
from it.

The cultivator has con- lui |
stantly to take account of mse
the two processes. To grow |
a crop of Potatoes is one
thing, to secure a quantity
of “ Apples,” or Potato fruits
with their contained seeds,
is another matter. Again,
the cultivator must bear in mind that, though
growth implies increased bulk, yet that increased
bulk does not necessarily imply enhanced growth.
The gigantic mangels and other roots that one sees
at shows are often of less value for feeding purposes
than others of smaller size. The reason is that the
bulk in the one case is principally made up of water
and of the extension of old rather than the multipli-
cation of new cells. The true test of value in such
cases is afforded by the microscope or by the chemist,
who finds a much larger proportionate amount of
“dry matter”? (i.e., matter left after driving off all
the water by means of heat) in the smaller than in

from below.

Fig. 51.—Experiment to show the Downward Ten-
dency of Growth in Roots even when illuminated

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

the monster roots. Mere bulk, then, without growth
is of no practical advantage.

The necessary conditions for growth have already
been mentioned in general terms under the head of
Germination. (See ante, Vol. 1, p. 23.) With a
sufficient knowledge of general principles the culti-
vator can readily adjust his practice to particular
plants, and to his own particular requirements. It
may, however, not be in-
appropriate to allude to cer-
tain phenomena of growth
which it is especially neces-
sary to bear in mind.

Continuous or In-
termittent Growth. —
Strictly speaking, growth,
at least in the higher plants,
is never absolutely con-
tinuous, it is always arrested
at times to be resumed at
another period. But bear-
ing this qualification in mind
it is easy to see that, by
maintaining uniformity of
conditions, we induce more
or less continuous growth.
In forcing operations, where
the heat is regularly kept
above a certain temperature,
we have an illustration of
this. But even here it is
the practice to lower the
temperature at night and to
raise it in the day. At
night, though the tempera-
ture may not be deficient,
the light is absent, and it is
consequently good practice
to lessen the temperature so
as to secure a more even
balance of conditions. Even
in the tropics the night
temperature, we must remember, is invariably lower
than the day temperature.

Day and Night Growth.—Strange as it may
scem at first sight, there is no doubt that growth is
arrested in the day-time under the exposure to light
—not absolutely, but certainly relatively. The
energy of growth is decidedly greater at night than
in the day. During the day, when the leaves are
exposed to the action of the sun, food or food-mate-
rials are absorbed or transformed in the manner
already alluded to. The greater energy is devoted
during daylight hours to these processes. At night

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS.

the case is reversed—the greater energy then is exer-
cised in the subdivision of cells and the consequent
growth and formation of new or additional tissue,
for the formation of which the food-material stored
up during the day is absolutely essential. There is,
therefore, in plants a well-marked intermission and
variation of growth by day and by night respec-
tively. How the eaves become emptied of their
starch at night has been told in u previous section;
that starch is conveyed to the store organs or to the
growing points, and is either stored up or directly
applied to the grow-
ing tissues. But it
may be said that
plants grow by day
as well as by night;
such growth can be
proved by observa-
tion and experiment.
This is quite true,
still the greater
amount of growth is
by night.

Forecing.—
Growth by day, or
at any period, more-
over, is easily ac-
counted for where
there is an available
store of food-material
to draw upon. Thus
in the early stages of
forcing _ operations,
provided the heat
and moisture be suffi-
cient, light is of re-
latively little conse-
quence. The work
effected by light was completed last season, and
through its agency at that period a sufficient store of
iood-material was accumulated. But in the case of a
weak seedling plant, or of any other in which there
is little or vo store of food, growth can hardly go on
at all during the day. Such energies as the plant
possesses must then be devoted to laying in a provi-
sion during the day to be utilised at night. Again,
growth may be facilitated on a dull day in summer
by the heat and moisture of the atmosphere, while
the amount of light may be inadequate to exert any
restraining influence. On the other hand, at night,
while the absence of light is favourable to growth,
the diminished temperature is less advantageous.
The comparatively even temperature of the soil
must also exert a marked regulating influence. The
truth is that with living beings the conditions are

4s

Fig. 52.—Experiment to show the Downward Tendency of the
Roots even when provided with moisture above, showing that
moisture aloue does not influence their direction.

369

so mixed in their incidence, and the actions of
plants are so controlled by conflicting circumstances,
that it is rarely any absolute or dogmatic statement
can be made. The spirit of compromise and recipro-
cal adjustment reigns supreme in nature, and the
more fully the cultivator recognises this and puts it
into practice the more successful he is likely to be.
The physiologist in the laboratory, for his purposes,
is constantly endeavouring to unravel and do away
with these compromises, in order that he may the
more clearly ascertain what is the separate effect of
heat, of light, or
what not, indepen-
dently of other agen-
cies; and conse-
quently he is in a
position to make
dogmatic statements
based upon what he
sees in the labora-
tory. But unfortu-
nately he is not able
to tell us much of
what goes on in the
living plant under
natural circum-
stances. Like the
practical cultivator,
he only sees the re-
sults, although his
previous knowledge
gives him a better
opportunity for un-
derstanding how
those results arc
brought about.

It may then be
certainly | assumed
that light retards
growth, and consequently that growth is most
active at night, though it may be modified and con-
trolled by other agencies.

Rate of Growth.—Taking the daily life of a
plant, the energy of growth rises from a minimum to
its culminating point, and then descends; and this
“curve of growth” is found to be especially favoured
by a certain amount of heat, the exact amount vary-
ing in the case of different plants, and in the case of
different parts of the same plant. The most suitable
temperature can only be ascertained by experience.
because the meteorological details obtained from
a study of the climate of the plant’s native country
are only suggestive, and afford no direct indication
of the power a plant has of adapting itself to the
altered circumstances of cultivation, The heat in

370 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

any case must be accompanied by an adequate supply
of moisture and of nutritive material, the latter, as
we have seen, having been accumulated under the
influence of light.

Swelling and Shrinking. — Growth is in-
separably connected with a swollen or turgid condi-
tion of the cell, due to the afflux of liquid matter
and to the elasticity and extensibility of the cell-
walls. Hence anything that promotes turgescence in
so far favours growth, and anything which checks
or prevents it has
a restraining in-
fluence on growth. ;
A withered shoot,
ene in which eva-
poration has been
in excess of the
supply, ceases to
grow—it shrinks,
receives a check as
gardeners say, and
it may or may not
revive when fresh
supplies are forth-
coming.

Effect of Pres-
sure. — Pressure
also necessarily
checks growth by
the resistance it
affords to expan-
sion. A branch of
a tree fastened
tightly against a«
wall will naturally
grow much less on
the side next the wall. The trunk of a tree tightly
tied up to a stake will increase less in proportion
than the free part above the tie, where the trunk and
branches have fair play. This is one reason why
trees that have been too tightly or too long staked
are apt to have their heads blown off or injured ‘by
the wind. Not only is there thus a greater leverage
on the head, but the confined stem below is less
able to resist the strain.

The benefit resulting from incising the bark of
“hide-bound ” trees may likewise be explained by the
lessened pressure so obtained, and the free growth of
trees such as the Plane may be explained by the
shedding of large slabs of the outer bark, or the deep
eracks and furrows in the bark of other trecs, which
diminish the resistance offered by the bark to the
growing tissues underneath, thus enabling them to
grow faster and further.

Fig. 53.—Shows a ‘ Procumbent” Stem, in which the Stem is at firstacted
on by gravitation, and afterwards ascends towards the light by the
agency of unequal growth on the two sides.

Direction of Growth.—The direction in which
growth takes place depends partly on external con-
ditions, partly on internal inborn circumstances,
handed down from plant to plant as its inheritance
from its predecessors. Thus, if the food-supply and
the illumination be equal on all sides, we may expect
a spherical form to result; while if the conditions
act more powerfully in certain directions than in
others, we may expect growth in more or less verti-
cal lines, as in the case of the stems of trees, or in flat
planes, as in the case of leaves; and there will be al]
kinds of interme-
diate forms accord-
ing to the varying
circumstances or
varying combina-
tions of circum-
stances. The down-
ward tendencies ex-
hibited by roots in
their growth when
unfettered by ham-
pering obstacles
have been shown
to ‘be due to the
action of gyravita-
tion, for even when
exposed to light or
moisture as in Figs.
51 and 52, the roots
are not turned
from their course.
The cause of the
upward tendency
exhibited by the
stem, see Figs. 52
and 53, though con-
nected with the
necessity for exposing the leaves to light and air, is
not understood, and such terms as “ geotropism,”
“negative geotropism,” “heliotropism,” ‘“hydro-
tropism,” * and the like, now frequently used, are
mere expressions of phenomena, and not explana-
tions of them. :

In the accompanying illustrations the varying
direction of plants is exemplified. In Fig. 51 the
roots are scen descending by gravitation; though
exposed to light from below, they neither bend
towards nor from it. In Fig. 52, where the Beans are
supposed to be planted in damp moss, the roots still
descend away from their supplies of moisture, thus

* Heliotropism—the tendency of growing parts to turn to
tke sun; geotropism—the tendency to turn towards the
earth ; hydrotropism—the tendency to turn towards mois-
ture. The reverse conditions are implied by the prefix
“negative.”

THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS. 371

showing that neither light nor moisture of itself
deflects roots from their course. In Fig. 52 is also
shown the gradual uplifting of the stem and the
speading of the leaves towards the light by “helio-
tropism.’” In Fig. 53 the stem is at first « procum-
bent,” the attraction of gravitation is more powerful
than the upward tendency of growth; but the latter
gets the upper hand and the stem turns upwards.

One - sided Growth, or
that in which the energy of
growth is much larger on the
one side than on the other is, as
has just been remarked, due to
the unequal pressure of some
obstacle which checks growth
on the one side, which conse-
quently remains flat or concave,
while on the other side, where
growth is not checked, it be-
comes convex. This is the ex-
planation of the coils and twists
we often see, and in which the
side that has been pressed upon
or obstructed in its growth
acts like a curb upon the other
side, where growth is going on
more freely, and causes it to
assume a convex form (Fig. 54).
The-upward turn of the stem in
Fig. 53 is accounted for by the
more rapid growth of the lower
surface of the stem than of the
upper, which is exposed to the
light and consequently re-
stricted in its development.

Heliotropism. — “ Helio-
tropic” curvatures, or such as
are due to the tendency of a
growing plant to turn its leaves
to the direction whence the light
comes, also- cause one-sided growth. Here the ne-
cessity for light and the consequent storage of food
induces a bending of the side exposed to the light,
although when all conditions are equal the actual
amount of growth is most active on the side turned
from the light. Most plants exhibit these so-called
heliotropic curvatures to a marked degree, and not
only are the stems or branches curved in accordance
with the direction whence the light falls, but the
leaves have the power of so altering their position as
to place themselves in the most favourable condition
as respects the light. This is especially observable
in the leaves of Silver Firs, the grey under surfaces
of which are much more conspicuous during bright

Fig. 54.—Stem of a Climbing Plant, to show
the manner in which it ascends its support.

light than at duller periods, owing to the power the
leaves have of twisting themselves round, and of
raising or depressing themselves as the case may be.
The leaves of a species of Pothos, in which the broad
stalk is jointed transversely to the Dlade, also show
these heliotropic movements very markedly, the leat
assuming almost every possible angle with reference
to its supporting stalk, in accordance with the dif-
ferent directions from which
the light falls.

The Ivy affords a curious
illustration of what has been
somewhat absurdly called
“negative heliotropism.” In
it the shoots when growing
against a wall bend away from
the light when they get the
chance, probably for the purpose
of securing a firmer hold on the
rock or wall.

Alternations of Growth.
—Intermissions of growth such
as those alluded to in the last
paragraph have reference more
particularly to time, but there
are other alternations of growth
connected with particular parts
of the plant. Growth in length,
as has been pointed out, occurs
principally at certain well-
defined growing points, as ad-
jacent to the tip of the root, at
the points of the buds, and so
forth. Besides this, there is
what is called “intercalary
growth,” in which centres of
active growth are insinuated in
the midst of tissues otherwise
passive. The occasional and sud-
den outgrowths of buds or other
excrescences from the surface of
leaves or other parts where such growth is unusual
may be explained in this manner; but such growth
is more or less irregular, and not to be confounded
with the alternation of growth—now in this part, now
in that—which constitutes so marked a feature in
the regular course of things. Ina rapidly-growing
shoot, for instance, it is found by direct observation
and measurements that the greatest activity of
growth at one time is along one particular line or
strip of tissue (the others being comparatively or
completely at rest), at another time along another,
and so on round the shoot, until the whole circuit
has been accomplished. Such alternations in the
direction and locality of active growth appear to be

372 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

universal, though, of course, materially modified by
circumstances.

Growth Movements.—Connected with these
. variations in the direction of growth are certain
movements. ‘The wriggling movements of the tips
of the roots during their period of active growth
have been previously alluded to as among the most
marvellous and, till lately, little suspectad phenomena
of plant-life (Vol. I., p. 86). Similar movements
take place in all parts where active growth is going
on, and where circumstances do not prevent them.
If the tip of any fast-growing shoot be continuously
examined, it may be observed to move through a
circular or elliptical orbit with more or less rapidity.
Even the leader shoots of Conifers, which appear so

rigid, will be found, if watched from time to time, ,

to move round from point to point. A simple
method of observing this is to procure a circular
piece of cardboard marked with degrees and per-
forated in the centre. Pass the leader shoot of the
tree careful-y through the hole in the card, so that
the shoot may have free play, and fix the card to
one end of a stake, inserting the other end in the
ground, or even tying it to the stem of the tree
below the leader. When the card is so fixed, note
the time, and mark with a pencil upon the card the
position of the end bud of the shoot and the direc-
tion in which it points. After an interval, repeat
the observation, when the shoot will be found to
have shifted its position, and it will continue to do
so day and night for some weeks during the period
of active growth. Of course, by more delicate means
in the laboratory, the direction and amount of move-
ment can be more accurately traced, and even made
to register itself, but the above method is amply
sufficient to establish the fact.

Climbing Plants.—The phenomena exhibited
by climbing and twining plants, where the free-
growing shoots are found to swing round from point
to point, till at length they come in contact with
something around which they twine and support
themselves, are explained in like manner, the growth
in such cases being checked on the one side and
continued on the other, so that the point of the shoot
is thus made to travel round the support. The free-
growing ends of such shoots exhibit. sensibility to
touch just as the tips of the roots do. See Vol. L.,
p. 87; and for a full account of various degrees of
sensibility and of movement in plants, sometimes so
perfect as almost to suggest a degree of consciousness

and voluntary effort on the part of the plant, sec

Darwin’s works on “The Power of Movement in
Plants,” and on “The Movements and Habits of
Climbing Plants.”

Such facts as these, with many others that might
be cited, suffice to impress the notion that all the parts
of a plant in active growth are ina state of movement.
Arrested or suspended in one part, it manifests it-
self in another ; relaxed at one time, it is the more
active at another. Invisible to the naked eye,
except in the cases we have mentioned, it is still
certainly going on beneath the surface. It occurs
in the fluids of the living cells, in the constantly
mobile protoplasm, even when it is not traceable on
a large scale. Truly, in the plant, as in the animal,
life and motion, motion and life are inseparable!

FERNS.

By Jaurs Britten, F.L.S.

The Onocleas.—According to some authorities
the only plant included under the generic name
Onoclea is O. sensibilis, frequently called the Sen-
sitive Fern, but having no claim to this name
beyond the fact of its speedily withering when cut.
In the “Synopsis Filicum,” however, the Ostrich
Fern, Struthiopteris, is merged as a section into
Onoclea, so the latter genus, as understood here, com-
prises three species—O. Germanica (perhaps more
widely known as Struthiopteris Germanica), O. orien-
talis (Struthiopteris orientalis), and the one mentioned
at the commencement of these notes. They are large-
growing herbaceous ferns, quite hardy in this
country, and make distinct and striking objects in

- the out-door fernery. All are dimorphic, that is to

say, the fertile fronds are unlike the sterile ones.
These latter, in O. sensibilis, rise separately from the
naked, extensively - creeping root -stock, are long-
stalked, bright green in colour, broadly triangular
in outline, deeply cut into lance-oblong pinnae,
which are entire or wavy toothed. The fertile
fronds are twice-pinnate, much contracted ; the pin-
nules short and revolute, usually so rolled up as to
be converted into berry-shaped closed involucres,
filled with sporangia, and forming a one-sided spike
or raceme. The Sensitive Fern is one of the most
distinct of all hardy ferns, and it should be allowed
plenty of room to develop and display its peculiarly-
formed bright green fronds. It likes a soil rich in
vegetable matter, and should be planted where it is
constantly moist; it is common in the United States
and Canada, and also occurs in North Asia, Amur,
Japan, and Manchuria. 0. Germanica is widely dis-
similar in habit from the last-named species; it is
remarkable for its handsome and symmetrical mode
of growth—the fronds growing erect in a circular
tuft from the short upright caudex, the large sterile
ones forming the outer series, the inner being formed

Ais

FERNS.

of the shorter fertile ones. The latter have bead or
uecklace-like pinnz, whilst in outline the former are
broadly-lanceolate, the narrowly-lanceolate deeply
pinnatifid pinnz being very numerous. the lowest ones
gradually much smaller. The name Ostrich Fern is
given in allusion to the plume-like arrangement of
the divisions of the fertile fronds. 0. Germanica was,
it is said, introduced to British gardens by Peter
Collinson in 1760, and is a native of Northern and
Eastern Europe, North Asia, and North America.
The only remaining species. 0. orientalis, hails from
Sikkim—where it ascends to 12,000 feet above sea-
Jevel—and Japan. It has ovate-oblong fronds, not
attenuated towards the base as in the last-named
species, the contracted fertile
ones often attaining a length
of two feet.

All the Onocleas like a rich
alluvial soil and plenty of
moisture; under these condi-
tions they attain their maxi-
mum development. They
will, however, grow well in
almost any garden soil.

The Lygodiums.—The
genus Lygodium belongs to
the Sehizeacee, a sub-order
which comprises not a few re-
markably handsome and ele-
gant ferns; one of its allies,
-dnemia, has already been de-
scribed in these articles. Not
more than a score of species
of Lygodium are known to science, and of these
perhaps not more than half are in cultivation. They
are readily recognised by their widely -scandent,
slender, twining stems, some of which attain a length
of twenty feet or more. The capsules are solitary
(now and then in pairs), in the axils of large imbri-
cating clasping involucres, which form spikes either
in separate pinne or in lax rows along the edge of
the leafy ones.

STOVE KINDS.
L. dichotomum.—aA strikingly beautiful plant in

all its stages; a native of Chusan, Hong Kong, the
Philippines, Ceylon, and the Malayan Peninsula and

Islands. It is one of the most robust of the species.

hitherto introduced, the main rachis in fully-grown
‘specimens being about twenty feet in length. The
emerald-green leathery pinnules are digitate, with
five or six narrow lobes—sometimes once or even
twice forked—reaching nearly down to the base.
In L. lanceolatum, from Madagascar, the pinnules are
a fine glossy-green, both above and below, and
their texture leathery; they measure from four to

378

six inches in length, and each has from three to six
somewhat lanceolate, never cordate, segments. J.
pinnatifidum resembles the first-named species in
habit, and is nearly as vigorous: the pinnules
clothing the lower portion of the rachis are often
pinnate, with five to seven oblong, alternate, shortly-
stalked segments. The rachis is a reddish-brown
colour, and forms a pleasing contrast to the dull
light green of the leathery pinnules. It occurs in
Hindostan from the Himalayas to Ceylon, the
Philippines, the Malaccas, North Au-tralia, Angola,
and Guinea. L. reticulatum (like L. lanceolatum)
has netted veins, and on this account is placed by
some pteridologists in a genus apart. Mr. J.
Smith, the veteran ex-curator
of the Royal Gardens, Kew,
raises it to the rank of a genus
under the name of Lygodie-
tyon, and not unfrequently it
will be found under this name
in gardens. The pinnules are
six to nine inches long by four
to six inches broad, with a
terminal segment, and from
four to six nearly uniform ones
on each side; in texture these
are not so leathery as those of
the foregoing species; they
are dull light green above, and
bright green below. The rachis
isnaked orslightly hairy, some-
times polished. It is a native
of the Polynesian Islands and
eastern tropical Australia.

I. venustum differs from the species already de-
scribed, in having the rachis and both surfaces of the
pinnules densely clothed with hairs. The pinnules
measure from six to twelve inches long by four to
six inches broad, with a terminal segment. and from
four to twelve simple ligulate-oblong ones on each
side, the lower ones usually spear-shaped or pinnate
below. It is a native of the West Indies and
Mexico, to Brazil and Peru. L. colubile has pin-
nules six to twelve inches long by six to ten
inches broad, somewhat leathery in texture, and
with both surfaces either naked or slightly hairy.
The terminal segment is stalked, three to six inches
long by one inch to one and a quarter broad, uncut
and ligulate-oblong in outline; there are from three
to five similar segments on each side of the central
one.

SENSIBILIS.

GREEN-HOUSE KINDS.

Perhaps the most widely-known species of the
genus is LZ. japonicum, a native of Japan, Hindostan,
from the Himalayas to Ceylon, Java, the Philippine
Islands, Hong Kong, and North Australia. It may

874

be grown to maturity in a six-inch pot, and with
this amount of root-room will often produce a
beautiful column of foliage ten feet or more in
height. The pinnules are herbaceous in texture,
four to eight inches in length, and nearly as broad ;
the terminal segment is pinnatifid or hastate, and
the latoral ones—of which there are two or three on
each side—are very unequal in size and irregular in
outline, the lower ones being long-stalked and pin-
nate in the lower part, with the divisions entire or
erenulated. ZL. palmatum, the Climbing Fern of the
Northein United States, is one of the most desirable of
all the species, as well as one of the most elegant and
graceful of all ferns. The slender, flexible, straw-
coloured stalks measure from two to three feet long,
and are produccd from slender running root-stocks ;
the short alternate branches are two-forked, each
fork bearing a round heart-shaped, palmate, four
to seven-lobed pinnule ; the fertile pinnules are con-
tracted and several times forked, forming a terminal
panicle. In the United States the pressed fronds of
this species are largely used for decorative purposes,
and command a high price. To such an extent was
the collection of these fronds carried on a few years
ago that there was a danger of the species being
exterminated, and to prevent this the aid of the
Legislature was invoked. One of the largest dealers
wrote a few years ago that he employed between two
and three hundred hands in collecting and preparing
the fronds for market. The ones with fructification,
being more finely cut and forming with their rich
brown colour a striking contrast to the delicate, pale
glaucous-green, barren pinnules, are the most highly
prized. The time of gathering lasts from about the
middle of August until about the last of November.
In pressing, the fronds are put between the leaves of
large books, where they are allowed to remain for a
couple of days; they are then transferred to dry
Paper under pressure, and changed again and again
until all moisture is absorbed. They are then
fastened in bunches containing thirty “ strings”
each. As before stated, the fruited specimens com-
mand the best price. Ina wild state L. palmatiun is
confined to the New World, where it occurs from
Massachusetts to Florida. Z. scandens is another
very handsome species, with a much more extended
geographical range than the last-named ; it is found
in South China and the Himalayas to Queensland,
the Malayan Archipelago and Ceylon, and is also
found on the Guinea coast. The pinnules arc a light
glaucous-green in colour, four to eight inches long
by two to four inches broad, with a terminal seg-
ment, and four or five on each side; these vary very
considerably in shape ; they are usually simple, ovate
or ligulate-oblong, with a rounded or heart-shaped
base, sometimes spear-shaped or even slightly pin-

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

nate below. The texture is firm, and the surfaces
are naked, or nearly so.

Cultivation.—The best soil in which to grow all
the Lygodiums (except perhaps L. palmatum) is
a mixture of equal parts of good fibrous loam, leaf-
mould, and peat, to which may be added a little
coarse sand. AJl require an abundance of moisture,
but dislike water-logged soil, so thorough drainage
is essential in order to prevent such a condition from
obtaining. They like frequent syringing overhead,
and such a course of treatment will tend to keep
down thrips, the only insect pest which troubles the
grower of Lygodiums to any extent. Fumigation,
too, is effective with thrips, and this should be
repeated at short intervals until the thrips have been
entirely got under. If kept clear of insects, and pro-
vided with suitable conditions in other respects, the
fronds last for a long time from top to bottom in a
perfectly fresh and green state; should, however,
they become rusty and discoloured from any cause, it
is better to remove these entirely and start the
plants afresh. They will soon make new growths,
and cutting off the whole of the fronds in order tc
induce new ones to develop does not appear to
injure most of the species. L. scandens makes a
beautiful screen to hide unsightly walls, and for
this purpose it is best to strain a series of perpen-
dicular wires from the top to the bottom of the
surface it is desired to hide, and to allow the fronds
to climb them. The plants, too, are best planted out
in a well-drained prepared border, as with an abun-
dance of root-room they furnish a good supply of
cut fronds, which are most useful for innumerable
decorative purposes, such as wreathing round largo
epergnes, &c. For lightly arranged arches few
plants form such elegant objects as some of the
Lygodiums, and the smaller-growing ones may be
used to hide the suspending wires of large hanging
baskets, Several also make beautiful specimen
plants trained to balloon-shaped trellises. Light—
provided the direct rays of the sun be excluded—is
enjoyed by the Lygodiums, and with no more shade
than: is necessary to attain this object they thrive
admirably.

L. paimatun has proved itself thoroughly hardy
in some places in this country, and there is no doubt
that with suitable conditions as regards soil, shade,
and moisture, it would be found to be hardy in very
many localitics. A well-drained but constantly
moist peat bed, such as is found best for some of the
North American Cypripediums, suits this species.
The plants should be put out early in the season so
as to become established as well as possible before
the approach of winter; and it is desirable, the first
winter at any rate, to shelter by means of Bracken
fronds or Spruce branches. It is to be hoped that,

ORCHIDS.

this very lovely species will be cultivated by many
fern-lovers; it as yet seems to be very far from
common, as only three or four years ago a specimen
which had been grown in the open air in Surrey
was awarded a first-class certificate at one of the
meetings of the Royal Horticultural Society.

ORCHIDS.

By Wittram Hue Gower.

Cyrtopodium.—A small family of strong-
growing terrestrial plants, producing long fleshy
stem-like pseudo-bulbs, which bear large plaited
membranous leaves, and erect panicles of remarkably
showy flowers.

These plants are of easy culture, and should be
potted in about equal parts of loam, peat, and well-
decomposed cow-manure ; during the growing season
they require an abundant supply of water, but when
the pseudo-bulbs are mature very little water is
necessary, and a lower temperature is requisite;
when the young growth commences they should be
at once removed into a little more heat, and a liberal
supply of water again be given them, as the scape
rises with the growth, and if neglected at this period
the flowers will be deformed. '

€. Andersonii.—Pseudo-bulbs stout, thick, and
fleshy, fusiform in shape, attaining a height of four
to five feet ; leaves plicate, membranous, large, and
spreading; panicle large, bearing a profusion of
flowers of a uniform rich yellow. Spring months.
Brazil.

C. punctatum.—This species resembles the pre-
ceding in habit: it is, however, a much dwarfer
plant, and produces its flowers more freely; the
sepals are tawny-yellow, blotched and spotted with
red; petals rich clear yellow ; lip yeliow in front ;
-the incurved side lobes crimson; an additional adorn-
ment is also found in a large bract at the base of
each flower, the same colour as the sepal. Spring
months. Brazil.

Dendrobium.—This is a very large genus, and
gontains an immense number of species and varieties
-of a highly ornamental character. Numerous as the
species are, however, the hybridiser has been busy
with them, and produced many new forms equalling
or even surpassing anything we have yet seen in the
wild plants for individual beauty.

Dendrobiums belong to the Eastern Hemisphere,
the majority being natives of India ; a great number
of them are also to be found in the Indian Islands,
some few even extending to Australia, and one out-
lying member is a native of New Zealand. The
word Dendrobium is of Greek origin, and signi-

375

fies “living upon a tree ’’—thus, dendron, “a tree,”
and bios, ‘life.’ As a genus it is distinguished by
its two-celled anther, with four pollen masses, which
have no caudicle or separate stigmatic gland, and are
of uniform breadth at the end.

The various members of this genus are very dis-
similar in habit of growth, although in the shape of
the flower they all bear a close resemblance. Some
species form terete stem-iike pseudo-bulbs, varying
from a few inches to several feet in height; some
cast their leaves and become deciduous in the rest-
ing season, whilst others have stout angular stems,
producing thick leathery leaves, which are persistent.
Many of the kinds which produce long terete
pseudo-bulbs are pendent in habit, and these require
to be grown on a block of wood or in a hanging
basket, in order to display their charms to the best
advantage. As a rule Dendrobiums are not diffi-
cult to cultivate, but as their habit of growth is
so different, different methods must be adopted to
promote vigorous growth and to maintain them in
health.

- It may be accepted as a rule that Dendrobiums
enjoy a decided period of rest, although, as we have
previously remarked when treating upon other
genera, the drying off must not be carried to such
an extent ‘as to cause the growths to shrivel: the
leaves of the deciduous kinds will of course turn
yellow and fall off, but if this occurs with such
species as densiforum and Farmerii, it is a proof that
the drying off has been carried to excess, and the
health of the plant is sure to suffer in consequence.

Dendrobiums, whether in pots or baskets, should
have a compost consisting of half fibrous peat and half
Sphagnum moss; the drainage must be good, and the
soil should be pressed down firmly. In the case of
those species which thrive best upon a block of wood
Sphagnum only must be used. They enjoy a copious
supply of water during the growing season, and also
frequent showers from the syringe, but during the
resting period little or none will be required; at
this time also they should be placed in a lower
temperature than that in which they have been
grown.

Although many of the species are natives of
Northern India, they enjoy a high temperature and
an atmosphere ‘vell charged with moisture when
growing, but they require care and attention to

- finish them off in a cooler temperature. East Indian

House.

D. albo-sanguineum.— Pseudo-bulbs thick, erect,
nine to twelve inches high: flowers two to three,
nodding, and three to four inches in diameter; sepals
linear-lanceolate, creamy-white; petals oblong, in-
curved, twice as broad as the sepals, creamy-white
with a few reddish-purple streaks at the base; lip

378 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

large, roundish or obovate, entire, white with a large
reddish-crimson blotch at the base. Spring and
early summer. Native of the forests on the Attran
River, Moulmein.

D. aggregatum, var. majus.—As the name implies,
this is a larger form than
the type. The pseudo-bulbs
‘form dense clusters; they
are stout, some four inches
high, and bear on the sum-:
mit a solitary thick and deep
green leaf; racemes longer
than the growth, bearing
numerous large flowers of a
uniform clear yellow. It
thrives best upon a block.
Spring months. Northern
India.

D. Ainsworthii.—This is
a hybrid raised’in the gar-
dens of Dr. Ainsworth, of
Manchester. The parents
were D. heterocarpum and D.
nobile. In habit of growth
it resembles the last-named
parent, but is even more
floriferous, and must. take
rank as one of the finest of
the family. Sepals and
petals pure white; ground-
colour of lip white, bearing
a large central blotch of
rich amaranth, feathered at
the edges. Another form
called D, Ainsworthii pur-
bureum, from the same batch
of seedlings, is distinguished
by its intense rich purple
lip. February and March.
Garden origin.

D. amenwn.—-An elegant
slender - growing species,
having pseudo-bulbs one to
two feet high, bearing thin
linear - lanceolate —_ leaves,
some three to four inches
long and bright green; the
peduncle very short, usually bearing about three
flowers, each two to three inches in diameter; sepals
and petals ovate-lanceolate, white, the upper parts
being purplish-violet; lip trumpet-shaped, rich
purplish-violet, white at the edges, and blotched
with yellow in the throat. Its fragrant flowers ap-
pear in the early summer. Sikkim Himalayas, at
5,000 feet elevation.

D. barbatulwn.—An elegant small-growing plant,

DENDROBIUM BARBATULUM.

thriving best when grown ona block. It flowers on
the leafless stem. This species has frequently been
mixed up with D. Fytchianum, but it is nevertheless
abundantly distinct. The pseudo-bulbs are terete;
leaves narrowly-lanceolate and deciduous; racemes
lateral, slender, half the
length of the stems, and’
many-flowered, pale green,
changing to pure white
when expanded, faintly
stained with lemon at the
base; spur long. Spring
months. , Mountains of
Western India.

D. Bensonie. — A truly
beautiful species, which
should be grown upon a
block of wood. The pseudo-
bulbs are somewhat pendu-
lous, and from one to three
feet long; these shed their
leaves before the flowers ap-
pear, the young growths
only having leaves at that
time. Flowers upwards of
two inches across; sepals
and petals pure white; lip
white, with a blotch of deep
orange on the centre, and
two large velvety-black spots
at the base. May and June.
Moulmein.

D. big ibbum.—This species
was originally sent to this
country from the north-east
coast of New Holland, and
was for some time an ex-
tremely rare plant in culti-
vation; more recently, how-
ever, it has been sent to us
in great abundance from
New Guinea, and proves to
be a profuse flowerer and
most charming plant. The
pseudo-bulbs are slender,
tufted, one to two feet long,
fusiform in shape, and bear-
ing towards the apex numerous sheathing linear-
oblong dark green leaves. Peduncles arising from
the apex and also from the joints near the top—
these are erect, and bear from six to eight flowers,
which are in the sepals and petals deep lilac; lip
rosy-purple, with a white crest on the disc. The old
stems continue to produce flowers for several years.
It blooms nearly the season through. Tropical
Australia and New Guinea.

ORCHIDS.

D. Cambridgeanum.—This handsome species suc-
ceeds best when grown upon a block of wood or ina
basket suspended from the roof, and thrives under
somewhat cooler treatment than the majority of the
Dendrobiums. The pseudo-bulbs are clustered, pen-
dulous, thickened at the joints, and about a foot
long; the leaves are sheathing, ovate-acuminate, and
dark green; the flowers are produced on the young
growths only. Peduncle short, and usually two-
tlowered: these are two to three inches in diameter ;
sepals and petals about equal, and of a clear orange-

377

in pairs, each two to three inches in diameter; sepals
and petals milk-white, tipped with bright rose, the
petals being much the larger; lip entire, velvety-
white, tipped with deep rose, and stained with bright
orange-yellow on the disc. The winter and spring
months. Found in Moulmein, on the Arrakan
Mountains, at an elevation of 2,500 feet.

D, crystallinum.—A deciduous species of great
beauty, producing slender terete stem-like pseudo-
bulbs, which are upwards of a foot long. The leaves
are only found on the young growths, and the.

DENDROBIUM WaARDIANUM, pet :

colour ; lip large, deep orange with a large velvety-
black blotch at the base. Spring months. Northern
India.

D. chrysotoxun.—An evergreen erect plant, with
clavate or spindle-shaped pseudo-bulbs upwards of a
foot high, bearing near the summit three or four
dark green oblong-acute coriaceous leaves. Peduncle
arising from the side of the pseudo-bulb just under
the leaves, bearing a pendulous, rather lax raceme of
large rich deep yellow flowers. Sepals and petals—
the latter much the larger—all rich golden-yellow;
lip deep orange on the disc, the edges beautifully
fringed. Winter and spring months. Moulmein.

D. crassinode.—This most beautiful and distinct
species produces pseudo-bulbs one to two feet long,
which are deciduous. As its name implies, the joints
or nodes are very much swollen, which gives it a
peculiar appearance. Flowers frecly produced, usually

flowers are produced on the naked stems of the-
previous season; these are usually produced in
pairs on short peduncles; sepals and petals white,
tipped with rose, the petals much the broader; lip
round, white, orange-yellow at the base, and faintly
tipped with rose in the front. Summer months.
Burmah.

D. Dathousianum.—This is one of the largest and
grandest species in the genus; the pseudo-bulbs are
terete and stem-like, in fine specimens attaining a
height of three to six feet or more, distinctly
streaked throughout with reddish-crimson; the
racemes are produced on the previous year’s growth,
and bear from six to twelve or more flowers,
measuring upwards of four inches in diameter.
Sepals and petals ovate, the latter very much the
broader, creamy - yellow, suffused with pale rose;
lip large, flat, and oblong, same colour as the petals,

378
ornamented with two large spots of decp crimson.
May to July. Northern India.

D. densiflorum.—An erect evergreen species, with
clavate pseudo-bulbs, a foot or more high, bearing
near the summit three or four coriaceous, oblong-
acute, deep green leaves ; racemes lateral from below
the leaves, pendulous, many-flowered, resembling a
bunch of grapes in outline; the sepals and petals
spreading, rich clear amber colour throughout; lip
darker. Spring and early summer. Widely distri-
buted in India.

D. densifiorum, var. albo-lutea.—A grand form of
the original species ; it varies considerably, and thus
it is to be’found in gardens under the name of
D. Schroderii, D. densiflorum album, and D. thyrsi-
florum ; there is, however, little doubt that they are
forms of the same plant, and any of them are worthy
of a place in the best collection. This variety pro-
duces more slender pseudo-bulbs than the normal
form ; the raceme of bloom is usually, longer, and the
flowers are more laxly set; sepals and petals equal,
somewhat oblong and blunt at the points, pure
white; lip large, orbicular, rich amber, shading to
orange, and prettily fringed in front. Spring and
early summer. Moulmein.

D. densiflorum, var. Grifithii.—This is a mag-
nificent form of the species, being a much stronger
grower, and the inflorescence is about double the
size in all its parts ; the large drooping raceme is of
a uniform rich golden-yellow. Spring and carly
summer. Northern India.

D. densiflorwm, var. GuibertiimA very strong-
growing variety ; the pseudo-bulbs stout, producing
towards the apex three to four coriaceous and in-
tense deep green leaves; the pendulous raceme of
bloom is nearly eighteen inches long, and very
broad; sepals and petals soft amber; lip deep
orange at the base, rich amber in front, where it is
prettily fringed. India.

D. Devonianum.—aA quarter of a century ago this
species bore the title of the King of the Den-
drobes; and although an immense number of rivals
have been introduced since,, it may still hold its
ground, the only objection being the short-lived
properties of its flowers, as they seldom last many
days. This plant should be grown in a hanging
basket, as its pseudo-bulbs are long and slender; the
leaves are deciduous, and the flowers are produced
on the naked stem. Flowers usually in pairs;
sepals and petals soft crcamy-white, tinged with
pink, and tipped with purple; lip large, white,
tipped with rosy-purple, with two orange-coloured
spots at the base, the margin beng beautifully
fringed. Spring and carly summer. Khasia Hills,
at an elevation of 4,500 feet.

D. ehurnewm.—aA stout and erect-growing plant of

CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

dwarf habit, belonging to the D. formoswn group ;.
the flowers are produced on the young shoots about
the time growth is complete. Racemes erect, bear-
ing three to seven flowers, which resemble polished
ivory in their purity, saving the base of the lip,
which is streaked with lines of deep red. Spring
months. Moulmein.

D, Falconerii.—This fine species is a slender, pen-
dulous plant, and it should be grown either on a
block of wood or in a hanging basket. It has ob-
tained the character of being a shy bloomer ; this,
however, is rather the fault of the cultivator through
not drying it sufficiently, and although the plant will
suffer if allowed to get very dry, a thorough rest
can be given to it by lowering the temperature.
Pseudo-bulbs slender, with swollen nodes, pendulous,
Leaves few and very small; peduncle short, one-
flowered; flowers large, and of good substance ;
sepals and petals white, tipped with a broad patch of
rich deep purple; lip cucullate, spreading in front;
ground colour white, tipped with purple; the disc
is rich orange, and the base is covered with a rich
dark purple blotch. May and June. Bootan, at an
elevation of 4,000 feet.

D, Farmerii.—An erect evergreen species of great
beauty. Pseudo-bulbs club-shaped, about au foot
high, bearing near the summit several thick ovate-
acute coriacéous leaves, which are deep green above,
slightly paler below. Racemes pendulous, as long
or longer than the stems. Flowers numerous; in
one variety the sepals and petals are pale straw-
colour tinged with pink, in another they are soft
rose; lip white, the disc being rich golden-yellow.
May and June. Assam and Moulmein.

D. Farmerii, var. aureo-fulrm.—This form re-
sembles the species in habit of growth, but the
flowers differ in having bright yellow sepals, and a
deep golden lip. May and June. Moulmein.

D. fimbriatum,—An. old inhabitant of our plant-
houses, consequently common, and thus within the
reach of those even with limited means. It is a very
handsome erect-growing species, bearing its flowers
in pendulous racemes on the previous years’ growth,
which are destitute of leaves. Racemes many-
flowered, sepals and petals spreading, and with the
lip of a rich deep orange, the front margin of the
lip being beautifully fringed. In the variety ocu-
latwm, the base of the lip is covered with a large '
dark purplish blotch. Spring and early summer.
Nepaul.

D, formosum, var. giganteum—aA_ bold-growing
form of the species; it belongs to the nigro-hirsute
section ; the pseudo-bulbs are crect, bearing numerous
stout bright green leaves, from whence the racemes
arise, which bear four to five flowers, five inches
across, and of the purest white, saving the disc of

ORCHIDS.

the lip, and this is light amber.
summer. Rangoon.

D. Fytchianum.—This is a charming little species,
which thrives best upoii a bare block of wood. It is
often confounded witha species previously quoted
(D. barbatulum), but from which it is abundantly
distinct; the stems are terete, slender, slightly in-
creasing in size upwards, and not swollen at the
base; the racemes are terminal upon the naked
stems; flowers pure white, saving the lateral lobes
of the lip, which are pink.

D. heterocarpum.—There are numerous varieties of
this species, but all have to some extent lost favour
with Orchid-growers ; it is true they are somewhat
deficient in colour, but the delicious fragrance of the
Violet which they emit should recommend them to
all. The pseudo-bulbs are terete and somewhat
pendulous, flowers abundantly produced: the sepals
and petals are pale yellow; lip same colour, with a
dark blotch on the disc. Other forms of this plant
are very numerous, but all are fragrant. Winter
and spring months. Widely distributed through
India and also the Indian Islands.

D. Hookerianwn.—This beautiful and free-flower-
ing plant is also to be found in collections under the
name of D. chrysotis. It is an erect-growing plant,
attaining a height of three to four feet when strong ;
the racemes are five to nine-flowered, and these are
borne on the young growth with the leaves, and not
on the previous years’ naked stems. Flowers three
to four inches in diameter; sepals and petals about
equal, somewhat oblong-acute, deep apricot-yellow.
Lip convolute at the base, with a large cordate
middle lobe, soft apricot-yellow, edged with a
beautifully moss-like fringe nearly half an inch
long, and marked at the base with two dark purple
blotches. It is undoubtedly a near relative of
D. finbriatum oculatum, but it differs from that
species in producing its flowers upon the young
stems with the leaves, and in having two blotches at
the base of the lip instead of one. Autumn months.
On trees in hot valleys in Sikkim, at an elevation of
1,500 feet.

D. infundibulum.—This is one of the very finest of
the nigro-hirsute section, a class which enjoy an
abundant supply of water during the growing sea-
son, but it must never remain about the roots. It
is nearly allied to D. formosum, and is to be found in
some collections under the name of D. IJoulmeinense.
Pseudo-bulbs terete, clothed with short black hairs;
leaves narrowly-lanceolate, acute, and dark green.
Racemes three to four or more flowered; flowers
three to four inches across; sepals linear-oblong ;
petals very broad and obtuse, all pure ivory-white ;
lip white, stained with yellow at the base, and
streaked with lines of Roman red; the middle lobe

Spring and carly

379

is broad and spreading, serrated on the edge, side
lobes forming a complete hood over the column.
Spur about an inch long. Spring and early sum-
mer. Moulmein, at an elevation of £,000 fect.

D, Jenkinsii.—An old inhabitant of our plant-
nouses, which must be grown upon a block of wood ;
the pseudo-bulbs are.small, bearing a singl@ dark
green leaf, the whole plant never exceeding two
inches in height. The flowers are usually produced
in pairs, large and showy, of a uniform pale yellow.
Spring months. Northern India.

D. Leechianum.—This beautiful plant is a hybrid,
raised by Mr, Swan in the gardens of Mr. W.
Leech, of Fallowfield, Manchester; and although
D, Ainsworthit was raised in gardens near by, and
from the same, parents, the result is totally different.
Sepals and petals soft white, tipped and suffused
with flesh-colour, the petals waved at the edges, and
twice as broad as the sepals. Lip white, with a
large blotch of purplish-crimson, the base of the lip
covering the column. It is an abundant bloomer,
continuing from autumn into the late spring months.
Garden hybrid.

D. lituiflorum.—A. pendulous deciduous species,
which should be grown upon a block of wood or in
a basket. The peduncle is usually two-flowered.
Flowers large, upwards of three inches in diameter.
Sepals and petals spreading, the latter being much
the broader, all of a rosy-lilac. Lip convolute, re-
sembling a Roman trumpet in shape, from which

‘the specific name is derived; white, with a margin

of soft rose, and deep violet eye.
Upper Assam.

D. macranthum.—This grand species has been for
many years known in gardens by the name of
inacrophyllum, and also superbum; both, however, we
are told, are erroneous. The pseudo-bulbs are stout,
long, and pendulous, in the variety giganteum often
attaining a length of from four to five feet. The
young growths are furnished with numerous broadly-
ovate, many-ribbed, dark green leaves. Flowers,
usually in pairs, five to six inches across ; sepals and
petals large and spreading, pale rose; lip deep
rose on the outside, pale rose on the front lobe,
with a dark blotch of deep crimson at the base,
which is very beautifully toothed on the margin.
The flowers have a strong perfume, resembling
Turkey rhubarb. Spring and summer. Island of
Luzon. ;

D. macranthum, var. Huttonii—An exceedingly
rare variety, resembling in habit the normal form,
but somewhat more slender. Sepals and petals pure
white; the lip rose-colour, with a deep crimson
plotch at the base. Spring and summer. Malay
Islands.

D. Macarthia.—In its native country this is known

Spring months.

380 ; CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.

by the name of Rainy-month Flower. The pseudo-
bulbs are slender, erect, and slightly swollen at the
base, and very prettily spotted with crimson, The
flowers are borne in short racemes of three or four
together, each upwards of three inches across;
sepals and petals very pointed, bright cerise; lip
pale cerise and white, with a deep purple blotch at
the base. Spring and summer, lasting very long in
perfection. Ceylon.

D. nobile—This fine old species is a general
favourite, and has long been an inhabitant of our
plant-hotises. It may be grown in either pot or
basket, or on a block of wood; but if a large
specimen is required, pot-culture must be adopted.

’ The pseudo-bulbs are erect, one to two feet long, pale
green, and very transparent. It is an abundant
bloomer, flowers usually two or three on the raceme ;
sepals and petals waxy-white, tinged and tipped
with pink ; lip white, with a large crimson blotch at
the base. In the variety Wallachianum, the flowers
are larger and much deeper in colour; there are

numerous varieties, but for size and richness of,

colouring all are far surpassed by the variety
Rollissonii, sometimes called nobile nobilis ; in this
the flowers are large and spreading, and rosy-
purple in the sepals and petals, the lip being of a
deep velvety-purple. Winter and spring months.
Widely distributed throughout India.

D. Parishiii—This is a distinct and beautiful
species when in flower, but the thick bent-down
pseudo-bulbs give it a somewhat ungainly appear-
ance when not in bloom. It may be grown either
in a pot or basket, but appears to thrive best and
display its beauty to the greatest advantage in a
basket. Pseudo-bulbs thick and bent downwards,
one to two feet or more long, bearing on the naked
stems a profusion of its purplish rose-coloured
flowers in May and June. Moulmein.

D. Pierardii and its varieties are all very desirable
plants, producing very long pendulous pseudo-bulbs.
They must be grown upon a block or in a basket,
as their beauties cannot be seen unless suspended.
Pseudo-bulbs two to three feet or more long, de-
ciduous; these are beautifully festooned with its
flowers, which are in the sepals and petals creamy-
white or pink, the lip usually pale primfose. It
appears to chiefly grow upon Mango-trees in a
wild state. The variety latifoliuvm is stronger in its
growth, and produces larger flowers than the ori-
ginal type. Spring months, Delta of the Ganges.

D. pulchellum.—An elegant small-growing plant,
with slender pseudo-bulbs, seldom exceeding six
inches in length. Itsuccecds best in a basket. The
flowers are solitary, on rather long foot-stalks ; sepals
and petals pale purple, the latter much the broader.
Lip large and spreading, devp orange on the disc,

with a border of white, the edge beautifully fringed.
Winter. and spring months. Silhet.

D. suavissimum.—This most beautiful species re-
sembles D. chrysotorum somewhat in its habit of
growth, and also in its raceme being somewhat lax.
The flowers are very large, of a uniform rich
golden-yellow, and the lip is ornamented with a
large velvety blotch of deep crimson or Dlisck.
Summer months. Burmah.

D. speciosum.-—A very robust evergreen species,
and perhaps the least showy of the genus; but as it
can be kept in an ordinary green-house, it can be
grown by those having no hot-house. When growth
is complete, the best method to insure a crop of
flowers is to stand it in the open air for several
months. Pseudo-bulbs very stout, twelve to eighteen
inches high, bearing near the summit several very
thick and leathery deep green leaves. Racemes
erect, as long as the growths, densely set with waxy
flowers of a creamy-yellow, the lip prettily spotted
with purple. Winter months. Australia, where it
is known as the Rock Lily.

D. speciosum, var. Hillii_—By some this is con-
sidered a distinct species, but its differences, although
marked, are scarcely sufficient to entitle it to specific
rank. Tho pseudo-bulbs are much longer and more
slender, the racemes are also longer and pendent,
densely furnished with its creamy-white, fragrant
flowers. Winter months. New South Wales.

D. transparens.—An elegant and compact-growing
species. Pseudo-bulbs erect, smooth, bearing nume-
rous ovate-lanceolate pale green leaves. Flowers
usually in pairs. Sepals and petals spreading, the
latter much the broader, all of a transparent pale
pink, or purplish lilac; lip the same colour, with a
deep crimson blotch in the centre. Spring and early
summer. Nepaul.

D. Wardianum.—lf only one species of this genus
could be grown in a collection, this species, from its
large size and wondrous combination of colours,
would in most instances be selected. The pseudo-
bulbs are very long, pendulous, and swollen at the
joints, and furnished with numerous ovate-lanceolate
leaves, which are deciduous. Flowers, two to three,
very large, often measuring four to six inches across.
Sepals lanceolate and obtuse, petals much broader
than the sepals, oblong-ovate, all waxy-white, broadly
tipped with rich magenta. Lip cucullate, somewhat
ovate in front, the sides rolled over the column;
the basal portion deep orange-yellow, bordered in
front with white, broadly tipped with magenta, and
ornamented near the base with two deep crimson
blotches. It is a profuse bloomer. Winter and
spring months. Originally introduced from Assam,
but more recently a more robust-growing form has
been discoversd in Burmah,

XX ~~

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